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Primary Sources
Advertisements
English Women’s Domestic Magazine. “A & G Taylor Photographer to the Queen Quarter Page
Advertisement, 1877.” London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, Warwick House, 1877. The
Victoria and Albert Museum.
---“Chapman’s Summer Sale Black Silks! Half Page Advertisement July 1888.” London: Ward,
Lock, and Tyler, Warwick House, 1888. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“The Holborn Silk Market Black Silks and Black Wool Quarter Page Advertisement October
1878.” London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, Warwick House, 1866. The Victoria and Albert
Museum Archives.
8
---“Mourning Toilettes” Picture of Woman and Girl in Mourning Full Page Advertisement for
Ladies Patterns at Madame A. Letellier 1890.” London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, Warwick
House, 1890. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Mourning Wear Full Page Advertisement Ladies Patterns at Madame A. Letellier October
1886.” London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, Warwick House, 1866. The Victoria and Albert
Museum Archives.
---“Nicholson’s With Mourning Goods Half Page Advertisement July 1883.” London: Ward,
Lock, and Tyler, Warwick House, 1883. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
Illustrated London News. “A Forrer, Hair Jewelry 2 Inch Advertisement January, 1868.”
London: Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1868. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Antoni Forrer Hair Jeweller 2 Inch Advertisement, September 1865.” London: Ingram
Brothers Publishing, 1865. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Artist in Hair Dewdney 2 Inch Advertisement, September 1865.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1865. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Black Silks at Jays 2 Inch Advertisement, June 1866.” London: Ingram Brothers Publishing,
1866. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Black Silks at Kings 2 Inch Advertisement, June 1866.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1866. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Black Silks! Black Silks! Baker and Crisp 2 Inch Advertisement, November 1866.” London:
Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1866. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“By Appointment to the Queen Jay’s Mourning House Quarter Page Advertisement March,
1889.” London: Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1889. The Victoria and Albert Museum
Archives.
---“Court and Family Mourning at Peter Robinson’s, Quarter Page Advertisement, September
1874.” London: Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1874. The Victoria and Albert Museum
Archives.
---“Elliot and Fry Photographers, Half Page Advertisement, August, 1883.” London: Ingram
Brothers Publishing, 1883. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Elliot and Fry Photography Studio, Quarter Page Advertisement, September, 1870.” London:
Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1870. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Fashionable Mourning at Reasonable Prices at Peter Robinson’s Half Page Advertisement
July 1890.” London: Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1890. The Victoria and Albert Museum
9
Archives.
---“G. Dewdney Artist in Hair 2 Inch Advertisement June 1866.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1866. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Gerard Alie Florist to Her Majesty Quarter Page Advertisement 1891.” London: Ingram
Brother’s Publishing, 1891. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Goldsmiths’ and Silversmiths’ Company Half Page Advertisement, March 1891.” London:
Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1891. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Hair Jewellery G Hooper, Artist in Hair 2 Inch Advertisement, September 1865.” London:
Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1865. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Hovis Bread Choice of the Queen Half Page Advertisement 1872.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1872. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---Jay’s Mourning House Half Page Advertisement, March 1891.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1891. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Mourning, 1 Guinea and a half the dress Jay’s Advertisement, December 1866.” London:
Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1866. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Mourning for Families, Jay’s 2 Inch Advertisement, February 1867.” London: Ingram
Brothers Publishing, 1867. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Mourning Orders in the Country at Jay’s House of Mourning, Half Page Ad, April 1889.”
London: Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1889. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Peter Robinson Half Page Advertisement January, 1889.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1889. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Spring Novelties at Jay’s Quarter Page Advertisement March, 1889.” London: Ingram
Brothers Publishing, 1889. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“The Widow’s Crape, Jay’s 2 Inch Advertisement, March 1867.” London: Ingram Brothers
Publishing, 1867. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Wordley and Co Goldsmiths and Hair Jewellery 2 Inch Advertisement, June 1868.” London:
Ingram Brothers Publishing, 1868. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
Myra’s Journal of Dress and Fashion. “Extremely Cheap Clothes that Will Look and Wear
Extremely Well, March 1887.” London: 1887. The Victoria and Albert Museum
Archives.
Queen Magazine. “Advantages to Nobility and Families of the Highest Rank, Peter Robinson,
10
1882.” London: 1882. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
The Season Lady’s Illustrated Magazine. “Worth et Cie Quarter Page Advertisement 1897.”
London: 1897. The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Irish Damask Table & House Linen Half Page Advertisement 1887.” London: 1887. The
Victoria and Albert Museum Archives.
---“Stagg, Mantel & Co. Half Page Advertisement April 1887.” London: 1887. The Victoria and
Albert Museum Archives.
Books and Booklets
Bragg, Lilian Chaplin and Cornelia Maclean Wilder. Savannah’s Antique Hair and Mourning
Jewelry. Savannah: Booklet from paper presentation Telfair Academy of Arts and
Sciences Association and Savannah Historical Research Group, (1945).
Campbell, Mark. Self-Instructor-The Art of Hair Work, Dressing Hair, Making Curls, Switches,
Braids and Hair Jewelry of Every Description. New York: M. Campbell, 1867.
---The Art of Hair Work: Hair Braiding and Jewelry of Sentiment, ed. Jules and
Kaethe Kliot. Berkeley: Lacis Publications, 1989, 1875.
Davey, Richard. History of Mourning. London: McCorquodale and Co., 1890.
Gaskell, Elizabeth. North and South. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1973.
Warren, Eliza. Comfort for Small Incomes. London: The Ladies Treasury, 1865.
---How I Managed my Children from Infancy to Marriage. London: Houlston and Wright, 1866.
---How I Manage my House on Two Hundred Pounds a Year. London: Houlston and Wright,
1864.
Magazine Articles
Aria, E. “Dressing as a Duty and an Art.” The Woman’s World, (November 1889): 476-477.
Godey’s Lady Book and Magazine, “Mourning Wear for Women.” May 1863. The Victoria and
Albert Museum Archives.
Maison, Maitresse de. “On the Etiquette of Mourning.” The Englishwoman’s Domestic
Magazine: An Illustrated Journal, (January 1876): 64-67.
Mason, Amelia Gere. “Is Sentiment Declining?” Century Illustrated Magazine 61, no.
11
4 (February 1901): 626-634.
"Mourning and Funeral Usages,” http://Harpersbazaar.victorian-books.com. April 17, 1886.
(Accessed March 2, 2012).
“Mourning Toilette.” The Season Lady’s Illustrated Magazine, (October 1886): 8-10.
Sylvia’s Home Journal. “Correct Behavior and Dress for First Mourning.” June, 1881. "The
House of Mourning: Victorian Mourning & Funeral Customs in the 1890s.” http://
victoriana.com/victorianPeriod/mourning (accessed March 6, 2012).
Letters
“Lost Letter Reveals Queen Victoria's Pain after Death of Prince Albert,” http://www.telegraph.
co.uk/news/uknews/theroyalfamily/8954977/Lost-letter-reveals-Queen-Victorias-painafter-death-of-Prince-Albert.html, (accessed March 2, 2012), Dec, 14, 2011.
“Margaret Carlyle to Jack,” http://carlyleletters,dukejournals.org/cgi/content/full/8/1/lt18350112-tc-jac-o1.html. (Accessed April 22, 2012), 1835.
“Quarry Bank Mill Letter: The Death of Emily Greg,” http://www.cheshirelife.co.uk/people/
victorian_letters_of_love_and_loss_from_quarry_bank_mill_1_1924147# (Accessed March 15,
2013), 1876.
Photographs of Mourning Jewelry
Photography, “Aunt Butler” Jet Brooch circa 1870-1880. Niki Willis, British Museum. June
2013.
---Bee Shaped Mourning Brooch with Braided Hair, circa 1860. Niki Willis, British Museum
June 2013.
---Braided Hair Mourning Bracelet with Cross 1901. Niki Willis, Victoria and Albert Museum.
June 2013.
---Braided Hair Mourning Bracelet with Garnet Clasp circa 1880-1890s. Niki Willis, Victoria
and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Brass Brooch with Prince Albert Curls and Photograph of Male, circa 1880s. Niki Willis,
Victoria and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Brass Brooch with Oval Shape and Woven Hair circa 1870-1880s. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Brown Hair Bracelet with Gold Trim. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
12
---Brown Hair Long Braided and Formed Earrings circa 1870s, Niki Willis, British Museum.
June 2013.
---Brown Hair Earrings in Acorn Shape circa 1870-1890. Niki Willis, British Museum. June
2013.
---Brown Formed Hair Bow Necklace with Two Drops on Chain circa 1880s. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Burroughs Double Memorial Ring, 1815. Niki Willis, Ashmolean Museum. June 2013.
--Circular Ring with White and Black Enamel and Woven Hair, circa 1830. Niki Willis, Victoria
and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Cameo Mourning Brooch with Braided Hair and Poem circa 1870-1890. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Crescent Shaped Worked Hair Brooch with Three Formed Round Drops and Round Center
Drop, circa 1870s-1880s.
---Crystal Lock Pendant with Loose Hair circa 1880s. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Diamond and Amethyst Mourning Brooch with Braided Hair, circa 1860s. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Engraved Gold and Ivory Mourning Locket Painted with Watercolor and Embellished with
Worked Hair and Pearls, circa 1775-1800. Niki Willis, Victoria and Albert Museum.
June 2013.
---Engraved with A Pledge of Eternal Affection Gold and Ivory Mourning Locket with Worked
Hair and Pearls, circa 1775-1800. Niki Willis, Victoria and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Flower Motif Hair Brooch circa 1870-1890. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Formed Bow Hair Brooch with Amethyst circa 1880s. Niki Willis, British Museum. June
2013.
---Formed Brunette Hair Brooch with Three Round Drops and Pearl in Center, circa 1880s.
Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Formed Hair Flower Necklace with Gold Ball in Center of Flower circa 1870-1890. Niki
Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Garnet and Gold Mourning Brooch with Braided Hair circa 1860. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
13
---Gold and Turquoise Mourning Heart Pendant with Braided Hair circa 1880s. Niki Willis,
British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Bird Mourning Brooch with Blue Forget me Knot Flower and Braided Hair on Belly
circa 1880s. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Bird Mourning Brooch with Gold and Turquoise Heart and Braided Hair on Belly circa
1880s. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Bird Mourning Brooch with Turquoise Flower and Braided Hair circa 1880s. Niki
Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Bird Mourning brooch with Turquoise Flower and Thistle circa 1880s. Niki Willis,
British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Bird Mourning Brooch with Turquoise Flower and Leaf and Braided Hair circa 1880s.
Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Egyptian Style Mourning Brooch with Hair circa 1880s. Niki Willis, British Museum.
June 2013.
---Gold Etruscan Style Mourning Ring with Braided Shaft circa 1880-1890s. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Heart Necklace with Pearls and Braided Hair with EA and JA circa 1870-1890. Niki
Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Mourning Cross with Blonde Braided Hair 1891. Niki Willis, British Museum. June
2013.
---Gold Mourning Locket with Garnet and Emerald Flower and Braided Hair circa 1860-1880.
Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Mourning Locket with Turquoise and Pearl Flower and Wrapped Hair circa 1860-1880.
Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Mourning Ring with Blue Enamel and Braided Hair 1792. Niki Willis, British Museum.
June 2013.
---Gold Phoenician Inspired Brooch with Blonde Braided Hair circa 1870s. Niki Willis, Victoria
and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Phoenician Inspired Brooch with Brunette Braided Hair circa 1870s. Niki Willis,
Victoria and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Ring with Cross on Black Enamel and Braided Hair circa 1870-1890. Niki Willis,
14
British Museum. June 2013.
---Gold Ring with White Enamel Remember Me, 1810. Niki Willis, Ashmolean Museum. June
2013.
---Gold Ring with White Pearl Flower, 1830. Niki Willis, Ashmolean Museum. June 2013.
---Mourning Bracelet with Gold Clasp and Garnets circa 1860-1880. Niki Willis, Victoria and
Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Mourning Brooch with Photograph and Worked Hair circa 1880-1890s. Niki Willis, Victoria
and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Mourning Brooch with Prince Albert Curls and Memorial Message on Back 1847. Niki Willis,
Victoria and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Mourning Locket with Emerald and Garnet and Memorial Message on Back circa 1880s. Niki
Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Mourning Brooch with Picture of Young Children and Bound Hair circa 1867. Niki Willis,
Victoria and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Not Lost But Gone Before Mourning Ring 1787. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Pearl, Amethyst, Garnet, and Emerald Mourning Brooch with Braided hair circa 1850s. Niki
Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Pearl and Braided Hair Mourning Brooch 1888. Niki Willis, Victoria and Albert Museum.
June 2013.
---Pearl Mourning Brooch with Braided Hair and “Walter 1884” on Back. Niki Willis, Victoria
and Albert Museum. June 2013.
---Pearl Remembrance Case “Ellen” circa 1860. Niki Willis, British Museum. June 2013.
---Pearl Snake Motif Brooch with Braided Hair in Center circa 1880s. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Portrait of a Lady, 1826. Niki Willis, Ashmolean Museum. June 2013.
---Portrait of a Member of the Fortnum Family, 1801. Niki Willis, Ashmolean Museum. June
2013.
---Portrait of Thomas Reed, 1760. Niki Willis, Ashmolean Museum. June 2013.
---Round Mourning Brooch with Prince Albert Curls and Heart Drop, circa 1880s. Niki Willis,
15
British Museum. June 2013.
---Shell Shaped Pearl and Loosely Braided Hair Brooch circa 1870s. Niki Willis, British
Museum. June 2013.
---Snake Earrings and Brooch with Turquoise circa 1850s. Niki Willis, British Museum.
June 2013.
---Square Mourning Brooch with Knotted Hair circa 1821. Niki Willis, British Museum. June
2013.
Post Mortem Photographs
“Cabinet Card, Mother and Child,” http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/ed/e7/7f/ede77
fba36150763a77b8c05cb33a68f.jpg. (Accessed March 14, 2012).
“Cabinet Card, Mother and Toddler,” http://keenanmcrae.files.wordpress.com/2012
/12/44.jpeg?w=489. (Accessed April 2, 2012).
“Early Cabinet Card, Mother and Child,” http://earthbound-paranormalofiowa.webs.com/postmortem1.jpg. (Accessed August 23, 2013).
“Family with dead daughter,” http://www.orderofthegooddeath.com/wp-content/uploads/
2012/06/postmortem+photo.jpg. (Accessed August 23, 2013).
“Five Sisters Mourning the Death of their Father,” http://www.fullerton.edu/arts/art/Begovich
_current/WEEPERS.jpg. (Accessed March 14, 2012).
“Girl in White Dress with Flowers,” http://ostrobogulation.files.wordpress.com/
2011/05/dead_people_19.jpg. (Accessed March 12, 2012).
“Girl Posed with her Dolls,” http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/87/b8/81/87b881
cef1a94ef7291b7c9e48d44849.jpg. (Accessed January 19, 2013).
“Man in Chair,” http:// 3.bp.blogspot.com/-w2otWtzrb3s/T7E6JrTIpWI/AAAAAAAA354/
iVYiguFCNo/s1600/05000000.jpg. (Accessed March 2, 2014).
“Memento Mori Card by John Hodges,” http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O38487/mementomori-card-hodges-john. (Accessed January 19, 2012).
“Mother and Daughter,” http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/f2/ee/4b/f2ee4bca353a
2a291a5ce0b656c0af1a.jpg. (Accessed August 23, 2013).
Photography, Memorial card for Albert, 1861. Niki Willis, Victoria and Albert Museum. June
2013.
16
---Theodore / Taken at Magdala 1/4 of an hour after his death - By Mr. R.R. Holmes,
1868. Niki Willis, Victoria and Albert Museum. June 2013.
“Posed Child,” http://cdnimg.visualizeus.com/thumbs/b8/16/b816f46bde6a67a3c1e2
e04de55d639d_h.jpg. (Accessed August 23, 2013).
“Siblings, One Deceased one Living,” http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s-tBCZ37Wa--/c_fit,fl_progressive,q_80,w_636/18khxeh5harynjpg.jpg. (Accessed August
23, 2013).
“Siblings with Dead Brother,” http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wzkD2R9Au7g/UBx1Yi023ZI/A
AAAAAAACnY/Ut3m6TDSvBI/s1600/BoysBoat.jpg. (Accessed August 23, 2013).
“Twins,” http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h9NMJ_juYSU/0.jpg. (Accessed August 23, 2013).
“Victorian Family with Dead Twins,” http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s-dYLZi6dq--/c_fit,fl_progressive,w_636/18khxk4dm3bx7jpg.jpg. (Accessed August 23,
2013).
“Woman with daughter and dead infant,” http://image0-rubylane.s3.amazonaws.com/
shops/1003156/CDVMementoMoriEx78eter.1L.jpg. (Accessed July 13, 2014).
“Young Boy in Chair,” http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/4307/anonimo02.gif. (Accessed
January 19, 2012).
“Young Girl, Sleeping,” http://31.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ljlwptvUn51qikoufo1_400.png.
(Accessed January 19, 2012).
17
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