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NOTES REGARDING HISTORICAL AND REFORMATION SITES BRITAIN © 2010 H.G. Harker January 2010 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page2 TABLE OF CONTENTS SDA CHURCH OFFICES – AND SOME CHURCHES...........................................................................10 INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................................................................11 HELPFUL HINTS - GETTING YOUR BEARINGS (1) ..........................................................................12 TRANSPORT ...........................................................................................................................................12 TRAINS ....................................................................................................................................................12 GETTING YOUR BEARINGS (2) ...........................................................................................................12 GREAT BRITAIN HERITAGE PASS .....................................................................................................13 ACCOMMODATION ..............................................................................................................................13 CITY SDA CHURCH ...............................................................................................................................13 LONDON .....................................................................................................................................................14 TRAFALGAR SQUARE ..........................................................................................................................14 THE STRAND ..........................................................................................................................................14 LAW COURTS .........................................................................................................................................14 FLEET STREET .......................................................................................................................................14 ST. BRIDE’S CHURCH ...........................................................................................................................15 ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL .....................................................................................................................15 THE MONUMENT ...................................................................................................................................16 MANSION HOUSE ..................................................................................................................................16 BRACKEN HOUSE .................................................................................................................................16 ROYAL EXCHANGE ..............................................................................................................................17 THE TOWER OF LONDON ....................................................................................................................17 The Crown Jewels .................................................................................................................................17 Wakefield and St. Thomas Towers ........................................................................................................17 Lanthorn Tower ....................................................................................................................................17 Tower Hill .............................................................................................................................................17 Bell Tower .............................................................................................................................................17 Traitor’s Gate .......................................................................................................................................18 Queen’s House ......................................................................................................................................18 White Tower ..........................................................................................................................................18 Beauchamp Tower ................................................................................................................................18 TOWER BRIDGE .....................................................................................................................................18 WHITEHALL ...........................................................................................................................................18 ALL SOUL’S CHURCH ...........................................................................................................................18 THE EMBANKMENT..............................................................................................................................19 CLEOPATRA’S NEEDLE .......................................................................................................................19 STATUE OF BOUDICEA ........................................................................................................................19 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT ...................................................................................................................19 WESTMINSTER ABBEY ........................................................................................................................20 ST. MARGARET’S CHURCH .................................................................................................................20 ST. JAMES’ PALACE ..............................................................................................................................21 THE ORANGE STREET CONGRETATIONAL CHURCH....................................................................21 THE SITE OF ISAAC NEWTON’S HOUSE ...........................................................................................21 PICCADILLY ...........................................................................................................................................21 OXFORD STREET ...................................................................................................................................22 HYDE PARK ............................................................................................................................................22 TYBURN ..................................................................................................................................................22 BUCKINGHAM PALACE .......................................................................................................................22 KENSINGTON MUSEUMS ETC ............................................................................................................22 ALBERT MEMORIAL ............................................................................................................................23 ALBERT HALL ........................................................................................................................................23 MADAME TUSSAUD’S AND THE PLANETARIUM ...........................................................................23 WHITEFIELD’S TABERNACLE ............................................................................................................23 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page3 WESLEY’S CHAPEL...............................................................................................................................24 BUNHILL FIELDS CEMETERY .............................................................................................................25 ST. GILES CHURCH CRIPPLEGATE ....................................................................................................25 MUSEUM OF LONDON ..........................................................................................................................26 ALDERSGATE STREET .........................................................................................................................26 OLD ROMAN WALL...............................................................................................................................26 ST BOTOLPH’S CHURCH ......................................................................................................................26 THE CHARTERHOUSE ..........................................................................................................................27 ST. MARY WOOLNOTH CHURCH .......................................................................................................27 FINSBURY SQUARE ..............................................................................................................................27 OLD BAILEY ...........................................................................................................................................27 ST. SEPULCHRES CHURCH ..................................................................................................................27 SMITHFIELD (MARTYRDOM SITE) ....................................................................................................28 PETTICOAT LANE MARKET ................................................................................................................29 PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET ...........................................................................................................29 HAMPTON COURT .................................................................................................................................29 BRITISH MUSEUM .................................................................................................................................29 TOY MUSEUM ........................................................................................................................................31 GUILDHALL............................................................................................................................................31 THE CLOCK MUSEUM ..........................................................................................................................31 HORNIMAN MUSEUM ..........................................................................................................................31 LONDON DUNGEON .............................................................................................................................31 ROTHERHITHE .......................................................................................................................................32 THE CLINK EXPOSITION ......................................................................................................................32 FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM ................................................................................................32 GREENWICH ...........................................................................................................................................33 HIGHGATE CEMETERY ........................................................................................................................33 TRIPS FROM LONDON ............................................................................................................................33 TRIP 1. WATFORD, ST. ALBANS AND WALTHAM ABBEY ...........................................................33 HAMSTEAD HEATH ..............................................................................................................................33 WATFORD ...............................................................................................................................................34 ST. ALBANS ............................................................................................................................................34 LUTON HOO ............................................................................................................................................34 WALTHAM ABBEY................................................................................................................................34 TRIP 2. TO THE EAST – CHELMSFORD & COLCHESTER ............................................................35 GRAYS .....................................................................................................................................................35 HORDON-ON-THE-HILL .......................................................................................................................35 BRENTWOOD .........................................................................................................................................35 GREENSTED ...........................................................................................................................................35 BILLERICAY ...........................................................................................................................................35 RAYLEIGH ..............................................................................................................................................36 LEIGH-ON-SEA .......................................................................................................................................36 ASHINGDON ...........................................................................................................................................36 CHELMSFORD ........................................................................................................................................36 WOODHAM MORTIMER .......................................................................................................................37 BRAINTREE ............................................................................................................................................37 CASTLE HEDINGHAM ..........................................................................................................................37 KELVEDON .............................................................................................................................................38 COLCHESTER .........................................................................................................................................38 The Town Hall ......................................................................................................................................38 Colchester Castle ..................................................................................................................................39 LITTLE DUNMOW..................................................................................................................................39 GREAT DUNMOW ..................................................................................................................................39 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page4 TRIP 3. COVENTRY, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON, THE COTSWOLDS & OXFORD ................39 KIDDERMINSTER ..................................................................................................................................39 COVENTRY .............................................................................................................................................39 Coventry Cathedral...............................................................................................................................40 STRATFORD-UPON-AVON ..................................................................................................................40 THE COTSWOLDS ..................................................................................................................................41 BURFORD ................................................................................................................................................42 OXFORD ..................................................................................................................................................42 THAME ....................................................................................................................................................44 AMERSHAM............................................................................................................................................44 TRIP 4. WINDSOR AND NEWBOLD COLLEGE ................................................................................45 WINDSOR ................................................................................................................................................45 Windsor Castle......................................................................................................................................45 ETON ........................................................................................................................................................45 RUNNYMEDE .........................................................................................................................................45 BRACKNELL ...........................................................................................................................................46 ASCOT .....................................................................................................................................................46 BINFIELD ................................................................................................................................................46 Newbold College ...................................................................................................................................46 MARLOW ................................................................................................................................................46 BEACONSFIELD .....................................................................................................................................46 JORDANS .................................................................................................................................................47 CHALFORD ST. GILES ...........................................................................................................................47 STOKE POGES ........................................................................................................................................47 HENLEY-ON-THAMES ..........................................................................................................................47 TRIP 5. BEDFORD, ELSTOW AND CAMBRIDGE .............................................................................47 ELSTOW ..................................................................................................................................................47 HARROWDEN .........................................................................................................................................49 BEDFORD ................................................................................................................................................49 AMPTHILL ..............................................................................................................................................51 HUNTINGDON ........................................................................................................................................51 OLNEY .....................................................................................................................................................52 CAMBRIDGE ...........................................................................................................................................52 Churches of Cambridge ........................................................................................................................53 Cambridge Colleges .............................................................................................................................54 THAXTED ................................................................................................................................................56 TRIP 6. EAST ENGLAND ........................................................................................................................56 DEDHAM .................................................................................................................................................56 EAST BERGHOLT ...................................................................................................................................56 THETFORD ..............................................................................................................................................56 HADLEIGH ..............................................................................................................................................57 BURY ST. EDMUNDS .............................................................................................................................57 IPSWICH ..................................................................................................................................................57 NEEDHAM ...............................................................................................................................................58 NORWICH................................................................................................................................................58 LITTLE WALSINGHAM .........................................................................................................................58 TYDD ST. GILES .....................................................................................................................................58 PETERBOROUGH ...................................................................................................................................59 FOTHERINGHAY ...................................................................................................................................59 GRANTHAM............................................................................................................................................59 SLEAFORD ..............................................................................................................................................59 BOSTON...................................................................................................................................................59 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page5 TRIP 7. SOUTH-EAST FROM LONDON ..............................................................................................60 DOWNE ....................................................................................................................................................60 DARTFORD .............................................................................................................................................60 DARENTH................................................................................................................................................60 GRAVESEND ..........................................................................................................................................60 COOLING .................................................................................................................................................61 ROCHESTER ...........................................................................................................................................61 GILLINGHAM .........................................................................................................................................62 BOXLEY ..................................................................................................................................................62 TRIP 8. CANTERBURY AND DOVER...................................................................................................62 CANTERBURY........................................................................................................................................62 CHILHAM ................................................................................................................................................65 RAMSGATE .............................................................................................................................................65 DEAL ........................................................................................................................................................65 DOVER .....................................................................................................................................................65 ROMNEY .................................................................................................................................................65 BATTLE ...................................................................................................................................................66 WARBLETON..........................................................................................................................................66 TARRING NEVILLE ...............................................................................................................................66 LEWES .....................................................................................................................................................66 EAST GRINSTEAD .................................................................................................................................66 ALBURY ..................................................................................................................................................66 BRIGHTON ..............................................................................................................................................67 CHICHESTER ..........................................................................................................................................67 TRIP 9 SALISBURY AND STONEHENGE ...........................................................................................67 STONEHENGE ........................................................................................................................................67 AVEBURY ...............................................................................................................................................67 SILBURY HILL ........................................................................................................................................67 WOODHENGE .........................................................................................................................................68 SALISBURY ............................................................................................................................................68 BREAMORE ............................................................................................................................................68 SOUTHAMPTON ....................................................................................................................................68 BEAULIEU ...............................................................................................................................................68 PORTSMOUTH........................................................................................................................................69 WINCHESTER .........................................................................................................................................69 TRIP 10 SOMERSET, DEVON AND CORNWALL ..............................................................................69 CASTLE CARY ........................................................................................................................................69 SHERBORNE ...........................................................................................................................................70 CERNE ABBAS .......................................................................................................................................70 TAUNTON ...............................................................................................................................................70 EXETER ...................................................................................................................................................70 NEWTON ABBOT ...................................................................................................................................70 BUCKLAND-IN-THE-MOOR .................................................................................................................71 TORQUAY ...............................................................................................................................................71 DARTMOUTH .........................................................................................................................................71 PLYMOUTH ............................................................................................................................................71 Sutton Harbour & The Barbican ..........................................................................................................71 YELVERTON ...........................................................................................................................................72 PRINCETON ............................................................................................................................................72 POLPERRO ..............................................................................................................................................72 GWENNAP PIT ........................................................................................................................................72 TRURO .....................................................................................................................................................72 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page6 TINTAGEL ...............................................................................................................................................72 TREWINT .................................................................................................................................................72 TRIP 11 WESTERN BRITAIN .................................................................................................................73 BRADFORD-ON-AVON .........................................................................................................................73 BATH ........................................................................................................................................................73 WELLS .....................................................................................................................................................73 GLASTONBURY .....................................................................................................................................73 MEARE.....................................................................................................................................................74 CHEDDAR ...............................................................................................................................................74 BRISTOL ..................................................................................................................................................74 SEE APPENDIX 16 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE MUELLER .......................................................75 BERKELEY ..............................................................................................................................................77 TINTERN..................................................................................................................................................77 HAY-ON-WYE ........................................................................................................................................77 GLOUCESTER .........................................................................................................................................77 DOWN AMPNEY.....................................................................................................................................77 TRIP 12 NORTH TO SCOTLAND ...........................................................................................................78 LUTTERWORTH .....................................................................................................................................78 St. Mary’s Parish Church .....................................................................................................................78 LEICESTER..............................................................................................................................................78 NOTTINGHAM........................................................................................................................................79 CHESTERFIELD ......................................................................................................................................79 LINCOLN .................................................................................................................................................79 SCROOBY ................................................................................................................................................79 AUSTERFIELD ........................................................................................................................................80 GAINSBOROUGH ...................................................................................................................................80 EPWORTH ...............................................................................................................................................80 Anglican Church ...................................................................................................................................80 The Home of the Wesleys ......................................................................................................................80 YORK .......................................................................................................................................................81 KNARESBOROUGH (AND SURROUNDING AREAS)..................................................................................81 THIRSK ....................................................................................................................................................82 WHITBY...................................................................................................................................................82 Whitby Abbey ........................................................................................................................................82 The Synod of Whitby .............................................................................................................................83 DARLINGTON ........................................................................................................................................83 DURHAM .................................................................................................................................................83 JARROW ..................................................................................................................................................83 HADRIAN’S WALL ................................................................................................................................83 HEXHAM .................................................................................................................................................84 ALNWICK ................................................................................................................................................84 BAMBURGH............................................................................................................................................84 LINDISFARNE ........................................................................................................................................84 Lindisfarne Priory ................................................................................................................................85 The Parish Church of St Mary ..............................................................................................................85 Lindisfarne Castle .................................................................................................................................85 BERWICK-ON-TWEED ..........................................................................................................................86 POLWARTH ............................................................................................................................................86 JEDBURGH ..............................................................................................................................................86 MELROSE ................................................................................................................................................86 TRAQUAIR ..............................................................................................................................................86 ASHKIRK .................................................................................................................................................87 HADDINGTON ........................................................................................................................................87 NORTH BERWICK ..................................................................................................................................87 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page7 BASS ROCK .............................................................................................................................................87 EDINBURGH ...........................................................................................................................................87 TRIP 13 NORTH FROM EDINBURGH .................................................................................................93 QUEENSFERRY ......................................................................................................................................93 LINLITHGOW .........................................................................................................................................93 BONNYBRIDGE ......................................................................................................................................93 STIRLING ................................................................................................................................................93 BANNOCKBURN ....................................................................................................................................94 KINROSS .................................................................................................................................................94 SECRET BUNKER...................................................................................................................................94 ST ANDREWS .........................................................................................................................................94 ABERNETHY ..........................................................................................................................................97 PERTH ......................................................................................................................................................97 SCONE .....................................................................................................................................................98 CRIEFF .....................................................................................................................................................98 KILLIN .....................................................................................................................................................98 FORTINGALL..........................................................................................................................................98 MEIGLE ...................................................................................................................................................98 GLAMIS CASTLE ...................................................................................................................................98 ABERLEMNO ..........................................................................................................................................99 BRECHIN .................................................................................................................................................99 DUNOTTAR CASTLE .............................................................................................................................99 BALMORAL ..........................................................................................................................................100 PICTISH STONE CIRCLES ...................................................................................................................100 FORRES .................................................................................................................................................100 CAWDOR ...............................................................................................................................................100 CULLODEN ...........................................................................................................................................100 INVERNESS ...........................................................................................................................................101 LOCH NESS ...........................................................................................................................................101 GLEN MORISTON ................................................................................................................................101 FORT WILLIAM ....................................................................................................................................101 GLEN COE .............................................................................................................................................101 BALQUHIDDER ....................................................................................................................................102 OBAN .....................................................................................................................................................102 MULL .....................................................................................................................................................102 IONA.......................................................................................................................................................103 STAFFA ..................................................................................................................................................104 CAMPBELTOWN ..................................................................................................................................104 INVERARAY .........................................................................................................................................104 LOCH LOMOND ...................................................................................................................................104 LUSS .......................................................................................................................................................105 GLASGOW .............................................................................................................................................105 TRIP 14 SOUTH FROM EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW ................................................................105 OLD PENTLAND CHURCHYARD ......................................................................................................105 RULLION GREEN .................................................................................................................................106 BIGGAR .................................................................................................................................................106 BOTHWELL BRIDGE ...........................................................................................................................106 HAMILTON ...........................................................................................................................................106 BLANTYRE ...........................................................................................................................................107 MOTHERWELL .....................................................................................................................................107 LANARK ................................................................................................................................................107 LESMAHAGOW ....................................................................................................................................108 STRATHAVEN ......................................................................................................................................108 DRUMCLOG ..........................................................................................................................................108 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page8 IRONGRAY CHURCHYARD ...............................................................................................................108 FENWICK ..............................................................................................................................................108 LOCHGOIN FARM ................................................................................................................................109 DOUGLAS..............................................................................................................................................109 MUIRKIRK ............................................................................................................................................109 PRIESTHILL ..........................................................................................................................................109 AIRDS MOSS OR AYRS MOSS ............................................................................................................109 CUMNOCK ............................................................................................................................................110 KNOWESIDE .........................................................................................................................................110 SANDQUHAR........................................................................................................................................110 OLD DALGARNOCK KIRKYARD ......................................................................................................111 TYNRON KIRKYARD ..........................................................................................................................111 GLENCAIRN KIRKYARD ....................................................................................................................111 MONIAIVE ............................................................................................................................................111 INGLISTON MAINS ..............................................................................................................................111 WIGTOWN.............................................................................................................................................112 SEE APPENDIX 33 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF MARGARET WILSON ....................................................112 WHITHORN ...........................................................................................................................................112 STRANRAER .........................................................................................................................................112 PORT WILLIAM ....................................................................................................................................113 GALLOWAY FOREST PARK...............................................................................................................113 CREETOWN ..........................................................................................................................................113 CAIRN HOLY ........................................................................................................................................113 ANWORTH ............................................................................................................................................113 THREAVE CASTLE ..............................................................................................................................114 DUMFRIES ............................................................................................................................................114 CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE.................................................................................................................114 RUTHWELL ...........................................................................................................................................114 ESKDALEMUIR ....................................................................................................................................114 LOCKERBIE ..........................................................................................................................................115 KIRKPATRICK-FLEMING ...................................................................................................................115 GRETNA GREEN ..................................................................................................................................115 BEWCASTLE .........................................................................................................................................116 CARLISLE..............................................................................................................................................116 HADRIAN’S WALL ..............................................................................................................................116 ST. BEES ................................................................................................................................................116 GOSFORTH............................................................................................................................................116 MUNCASTER ........................................................................................................................................116 HARD KNOT PASS ...............................................................................................................................117 LAKE DISTRICT ...................................................................................................................................117 Cockermouth .......................................................................................................................................117 Keswick ...............................................................................................................................................117 Grasmere & Rydal ..............................................................................................................................117 Rydal Mount........................................................................................................................................118 Ambleside............................................................................................................................................118 Near Sawrey........................................................................................................................................118 ULVERSTON .........................................................................................................................................118 ISLE OF MAN ........................................................................................................................................118 MANCHESTER......................................................................................................................................118 CHESTER ...............................................................................................................................................118 TEWKESBURY .....................................................................................................................................119 SHREWSBURY .....................................................................................................................................119 LEOMINSTER .......................................................................................................................................120 HEREFORD............................................................................................................................................120 TRIP 15 DIVERSION TO WALES ........................................................................................................120 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page9 MOLD .....................................................................................................................................................120 RUTHIN .................................................................................................................................................120 LLANGOLLEN ......................................................................................................................................120 ST. ASAPH .............................................................................................................................................121 RHOS-ON-SEA ......................................................................................................................................121 CONWY .................................................................................................................................................121 CAERHUN .............................................................................................................................................121 LLANFAIR P.G. .....................................................................................................................................121 PENMON ................................................................................................................................................121 HOLYHEAD ..........................................................................................................................................122 CAENARFON ........................................................................................................................................122 LLANBERIS & MT SNOWDON RAILWAY .......................................................................................122 BLAENAU FFESTINIOG ......................................................................................................................122 LLANFIHANGEL-Y-PENNANT ..........................................................................................................122 CORRIS ..................................................................................................................................................123 ST. DOGMAELS ....................................................................................................................................123 ST. DAVIDS ...........................................................................................................................................123 ST. GOVAN’S HEAD ............................................................................................................................123 MARGAM ..............................................................................................................................................123 CARDIFF ................................................................................................................................................123 CAERLON ..............................................................................................................................................123 APPENDIX 1 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WESLEY ................................................................................124 APPENDIX 2 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN NEWTON ...............................................................................126 APPENDIX 3 POEM “SMITHFIELD” ...............................................................................................128 APPENDIX 4 THE PILGRIM FATHERS ..............................................................................................130 APPENDIX 5 BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM HUNTER .........................................................................131 APPENDIX 6 BIOGRAPHY OF DR. PETER CHAMBERLEN ............................................................133 APPENDIX 7 BIOGRAPHY OF CHARLES HADDON SPURGEON ..................................................134 APPENDIX 8 BIOGRAPHY OF NICHOLAS RIDLEY ........................................................................136 APPENDIX 9 BIOGRAPHY OF HUGH LATIMER..............................................................................136 APPENDIX 10 BIOGRAPHY OF THOMAS CRANMER ....................................................................137 APPENDIX 11 ELERGY WRITTEN IN A COUNTRY CHURCHYARD ............................................140 APPENDIX 12 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN BUNYAN..............................................................................143 APPENDIX 13 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN GIFFORD..............................................................................147 APPENDIX 14 BIOGRAPHY OF THOMAS BILNEY ........................................................................147 APPENDIX 15 BIOGRAPHY OF ROBERT BARNES .........................................................................150 APPENDIX 16 BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE MEULLER .....................................................................151 APPENDIX 17 BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE WHITEFIELD.................................................................152 APPENDIX 18 BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM TYNDALE ....................................................................154 APPENDIX 19 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WYCLIFFE ...........................................................................154 APPENDIX 20 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN ROBINSON .........................................................................158 APPENDIX 21 SYNOD OF WHITBY ...................................................................................................160 APPENDIX 22 BIOGRAPHY OF CAEDMON .....................................................................................161 APPENDIX 23 BIOGRAPHY OF AIDAN .............................................................................................162 APPENDIX 24 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN KNOX ..................................................................................162 APPENDIX 25 SUMMARY OF THE “COVENANTERS” ..................................................................165 APPENDIX 26 POEMS OF THE SCOTTISH COVENANTERS ..........................................................167 APPENDIX 27 BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE WISHART ......................................................................168 APPENDIX 28 BIOGRAPHY OF PATRICK HAMILTON ..................................................................170 APPENDIX 29 BIOGRAPHY OF COLUMBA .....................................................................................171 APPENDIX 30 POEMS OF IONA ........................................................................................................171 APPENDIX 31 BIOGRAPHY OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE .................................................................173 APPENDIX 32 RICHARD CAMERON ..............................................................................................175 APPENDIX 34 POEM SCOTLAND’S MAIDEN MARTYR ...............................................................179 APPENDIX 35 SAMUEL RUTHERFORD ..........................................................................................181 APPENDIX 36 POEM YOUNG LOCHIVAR ......................................................................................184 Overseas Travel APPENDIX 36 BRITAIN Page10 WILLIAM MORGAN ................................................................................................185 SDA CHURCH OFFICES – AND SOME CHURCHES Trans European Division 119 St. Peter’s Street ST. ALBANS. HERTS AL1 3EY Phone: +44 (1727) 860 331 British Union Conference Stanborough Park WATFORD HERTS WD25 9JZ Phone: (0923) 672251, 672252 South England Conference 25 St. John’s Road WATFORD HERTS WD1 1PY Phone: +44 (1923) 672-251 North England Conference 22 Zulla Road MAPPERLEY PARK NOTTINGHAM NG3 5DB Phone: +44 (115) 960-6312 Welsh Mission 3 Drovers Way Radyr, Cardiff CF15 8GG WALES +44 (29) 2084-4106 Churches - London Brixton: Santley Street Brixton SW4 Chiswick: Stamford Brook Road Chiswick W6 Holloway 381 Holloway Road Holloway W7 The New Advent Centre Crawford Place/Glendon Street WC1 (former Synagogue). Stanborough Park Garston, WATFORD WD2 6JP Edinburgh: 3 Bristo Place Edinburgh 7 Glasgow : 174 Queen’s Drive Irish Mission 9 Newry Road BANBRIDGE Co DOWN BT32 3HF NORTH IRELAND Phone: +44 (28) 4062-6361 Scottish Mission Gwydyr Road, Perthshire PH7 4BS SCOTLAND Phone: +44 (1764) 653-257 INSTITUTIONS: Stanborough School Stanborough Park, GARSTON WATFORD HERTS. WD2 6JT Stanborough Press Ltd Alma Park GRANTHAM LINCS NG31 9SL Newbold College St. Mark’s Road Binfield, BRACKNELL BERKS RG12 5AN Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page11 INTRODUCTION The following compendium of notes and details of historical sites throughout Britain has been compiled to enable people to select places of interest to them when travelling and thus enrich their travel. Historical sites from early Celtic Christian to Reformation times have been included. Obviously, unless unlimited time is available, to visit all sites listed will not be remotely possible on one visit or tour. Occasionally, places of general tourist interest have been included. For short visits of 2 – 4 days, it may be better to concentrate on London, Oxford and Bedford etc or east to Waltham Abbey and Colchester. For longer itineraries, north to Scotland etc will reward the traveller who wishes to enhance a visit to Britain by including historical places. Areas of particular personal interest will always be the choice. It is hoped that in the many areas of Britain, these notes will be found helpful. Distances have been estimated using a ‘four miles to the inch’ road atlas. Please remember however, that distances are estimates only, and have been converted into kilometres. When travelling it is assumed that a Road Atlas or detailed maps will be used. Guidebooks are always very helpful to add many local details. Dorling Kindersley’s “Eyewitness Guides” are particularly recommended as giving as much historical details as any guide and also pictures of most sites and places. They are available for ‘London’, ‘Great Britain’, and ‘Scotland’ etc. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page12 HELPFUL HINTS - GETTING YOUR BEARINGS (1) One of the best ways to familiarise yourself with London is to buy an open-air bus tour (on a reasonably fine day or better). It usually takes about two hours and the highlights are seen – giving some idea of history, events, and directions etc. Maps of Central London and of the Underground are essential and are available from travel agents and the British Tourist Office prior to leaving; also from most tourist places in London – the Underground maps from stations. TRANSPORT Don’t attempt to drive. Apart from the impossibility of parking, London depends entirely on knowing exactly where you are going in advance and knowing all the numerous traps such as one-way streets, no right turns, compulsory left turns etc. See inner London on foot – a day spent wandering is well worthwhile. Buses are plentiful and useful once you find some basic routes. Otherwise, use the Underground – get you a free map from any station. Ask – local English people love to give directions. TRAINS Buy your ticket to your ultimate destination and change trains as many times as you like without coming out of the rail system. Trains are fast and frequent (very crowded in rush hours) and stations are close together in inner London. Trains run to Heathrow Airport – the Piccadilly Line. Trains run to Gatwick – but it is British Rail and not the Underground. These trains leave from Victoria station. Commence your travel after 9.30 am and you get considerable concessions on train and bus by buying a daily excursion ticket. The price varies according to the number of sections in which you wish to travel. When purchasing tickets after 9.30 am the ticket entitles you to also use London buses. Before leaving Australia, a three-day underground ticket can be purchased from travel agents. Likewise British Rail passes may be purchased for various lengths of time prior to leaving. GETTING YOUR BEARINGS (2) Start in Trafalgar Square – as central a point as anywhere. South of Trafalgar Square is Whitehall leading to the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. North of Trafalgar Square is Charing Cross Road to Tottenham Court Road and the British Museum. To the east is the Strand, leading to Fleet Street, St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower. To the west, through Admiralty Arch is the Mall leading to Buckingham Palace. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page13 To the northwest, past New Zealand House, is the Haymarket leading to Piccadilly Circus, Regent Street and the West End. GREAT BRITAIN HERITAGE PASS These passes are available for periods of 7 days, 15 days, or one month. Entry is free to castles, National Trust buildings, and Monuments etc – and half price to the Tower of London. Details are available from the British Tourist Authority Sydney – Phone (02) 9377 4400 or Fax (02) 9377 4499 – or ask your travel agent to get one for you. If residing in Britain for any length of time a yearlong subscription is possible and cheap. ACCOMMODATION In London itself, accommodation is very expensive, and in the summer tourist season scarce unless you pay the earth – or make reservations well in advance. Newbold College sometimes has limited accommodation available in the dormitories – particularly in vacation time. Contact them well in advance, but understand that Newbold College is a long way out of London. If you are travelling outside of special meeting times and are denominationally employed, the Trans-European Division at St. Albans has reasonable accommodation. Again make any arrangements well in advance. It is also quite a distance north of London. Mrs Masters, an Australian, does likewise. Her address is 162 Gunnersbury Lane, Actontown W3 England. Telephone: +44 (020) 8992 3051. Mrs Masters has been talking of ceasing this activity. Again check well in advance. Gary & Araxi Keshishian of ‘Ararat’ 155 Woodlands Ave, Eastcote, Rusilip Middlesex England HA4 9QX offer a non-smoking accommodation for church members at very reasonable rates. Contact them before 7.30 am and after 5.00 pm on +44 020 8866 8821 or email at gary@advent.plus.com Hotel Luna and Simone at 47 – 49 Belgrave Street is a five-minute walk from Victoria Station has been reported as being reasonably priced. CITY SDA CHURCH The Church in central London is The Advent Centre at 12 Crawford Place, Westminster, London. W1H 5HD. Crawford Place is off Edgware Road. The closest Underground Station is Edgware Road Station on the District or Circle Lines. Its GPS Coordinates are: N 51 31.057 E 00 09.954’. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page14 LONDON Is really two cities in one. The City of London proper, from Fleet Street to the Tower, is the original square mile founded by the Romans and still called “The City”. Here is located the Bank of England, most financial institutions and the Stock Market. The City of Westminster or “The West End” is where most shops, theatres, and government buildings are located. TRAFALGAR SQUARE Commemorates Nelson’s famous battle against the French in 1805. His statue stands on the tall column facing south. Directly behind him is the National Art Gallery. St. Martin’s in the Fields is nearby where a service is held each year on Australia Day. Africa House is on the corner of the Strand which in years gone by really was on the Strand or riverbank of the Thames. “Chere Reine”, (French for “dear queen”) and the cross in front marks the last resting-place of the funeral procession of Queen Eleanor, wife of King Edward. The Edith Cavill memorial is here. THE STRAND Here are located the offices of the various Australian States and Australia House. The church in the middle of the Strand is St. Mary-le-Strand and just beyond is another church in the middle of the road – St. Clement’s Dane – of “oranges and lemons” fame. Any of the streets on the left just after Charing Cross Station will lead up to Covent Garden Market. The sixth street, Wellington Street, leads to Bow Street and the famous police station and nearby the Royal Opera House. LAW COURTS Situated on the northern sides of the Strand near where the Strand becomes Fleet Street. They are easily recognised by the grey and white masonry and the Statue of Justice holding the balances. Opposite, in the middle of the road, is Temple Bar, a griffin (dragon) which marks the beginning of the City of London. An archway that was here – now removed – had the heads of executed criminals placed on it for all to see. These law courts are for civil cases. Criminal cases come before the Old Bailey. FLEET STREET Although not as many newspapers are in Fleet Street as there used to be, this is still considered the centre of London journalism. Temple Church, off Fleet Street EC1, belonged to Knights Templar 1184 – 1313. It has a round nave. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page15 Dr. Samuel Johnson’s house is an old stone house here in Fleet Street. ST. BRIDE’S CHURCH Is situated near Fleet Street (southern side) a little west of Newbridge Street. It was designed by Christopher Wren in 1670. It was restored in 1957 after being gutted in December 1940 by an incendiary bomb. After being struck by lightning three times in the early 18th century, King George III consulted with Benjamin Franklin regarding the best type of lightning conductor. Inside the oak redodos are a memorial to the Pilgrim Fathers. A memorial is here to Virginia Dare – the first English child born in America (parents came from St. Bride’s). John Taylor became vicar here in 1543 and was burnt at Smithfield under Bloody Mary. Samuel Pepys was christened here. John Milton and Samuel Johnson lived nearby. Interesting objects in the crypt include the remains of Roman Walls, a Saxon font, and carvings and glass left from the Great Fire of 1666. Its tiered octagonal spire has provided a model for tiered wedding cakes ever since it was added to the church in 1703. ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL Is situated along Fleet Street at the top of Ludgate Hill. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 30.822’ E 00 06.993’. Use the Underground to St. Pauls station on the Central Line. Is open Mon to Sat 0800 – 1800 hrs. There is a charge with an additional charge to each section – galleries, dome, crypt, etc. Ministers with proof of their ministry may be admitted free. Tradition has it that a Roman temple to Diana once stood here. No proof substantiates this. A Christian church of the 7th century was endowed by Ethelbert, King of Kent. Its successor was burnt in 1087. The Normans built St. Pauls – called Old St. Paul’s. This is the church where John Wycliffe was tried for heresy in 1377. Tyndale’s New Testament was publicly burned here in 1527. Sir Christopher Wren designed the cathedral after the Great Fire of London. One feature relating to the fire was his use of the Phoenix shown on the south Portico pediment and carved by a Danish sculptor. The building was damaged by bombs in 1941. Outside on the south side are the remains of a Cloister from the 1666 fire. Between the two towers in the front are carvings showing Paul’s conversion. The top of the cross is 365 ft high (about 109 m). The interior of the dome cupola is 218 ft high (about 65 m). At the end of the aisle on the south (LH side as you walk in) has Holman Hunt’s second original picture “The Light of the World” – with Christ knocking on the door. The first original is in Keeble Cottage, Oxford. When the painting was first given to Keeble Cottage, revenue was attempted to be raised with a charge of 6d per person, Hunt was so enraged he painted a second original from memory and this was purchased by the Booth family and donated to St. Pauls in 1908. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page16 In the Whispering Gallery, 112 ft diameter, whispers on one side are clearly heard on the other. The funeral of Winston Churchill was held here in 1965. Beneath the centre of the Dome, Lord Nelson rests in a coffin made from the mainmast of a French ship L’Orient, enclosed in a sarcophagus originally designed for Cardinal Wolsey. In the Crypt are many tombs of the famous. The ‘Painter’s’ corner has tombs of Landseer, Turner, Reynolds, Hunt etc and memorials to Van Dyck, William Blake, Constable and Sargeant etc. Here also is the grave of Sir Alexander Fleming – the discoverer of penicillin. In the western portion are Wellington’s sarcophagus and a memorial to Florence Nightingale. Outside in the grounds is the statue of John Wesley. Nearby in the Carter Home, a tablet records Shakespeare’s connection with the Bell Tavern which stood on the site. THE MONUMENT Situated on Monument Street, a short distance southeast from the Monument Underground station. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 30.638’ E 00 05.164’. It was designed by Sir Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke (Hooke’s Law) and commemorates the Great Fire of London of September 1666. The monument is 62 m (205 ft) high and has 311 steps. There is a charge to climb to the top. It is the tallest isolated stone column in the world – a Doric column. It was also built as an astronomical viewing station. The Great Fire of London started 62 m east of here in Pudding Lane (the same distance as the height of the monument). The inscription noted that the blame for the fire was put down to a popish trick. This has been debated – but shows the animosity between Rome and the Church of England at the time. MANSION HOUSE Is situated diagonally southwest across the square from the Bank Underground station on Walbrook Street. It was completed in 1753 and is the official residence of the Lord Mayor. The Egyptian Hall, 27 m long, is one of the staterooms. Underneath is a jail with 11 cells – 10 for men and 1 called the ‘birdcage’ for women. Emmerline Pankhurst, a campaigner for women’s suffrage (right to vote) was once detained here in the early part of this century. BRACKEN HOUSE Is situated in Cannon Street. If taking the Underground use Mansion House, Cannon Street, or Monument Stations. It has one of the most interesting and modern Zodiacal clocks above the main door. It was installed in 1959 and has a face about two metres in diameter with three rotating rings. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page17 The sun in the centre bears some resemblance to Winston Churchill, a friend of Lord Bracken after whom the building was named. A few metres from Bracken House is the zodiacal image of Cancer as the crab in relief in stone on the Sun Alliance Insurance building. ROYAL EXCHANGE Is situated beside the Bank Underground station between Threadneedle Street and Cornhill Street. It was founded in 1565, and was the forerunner of the Stock Market. The present building dates from 1844. It is one of the sites where new kings and queens are announced. In 1855 Britain’s first public lavatory was built in the forecourt (men only). It has the inscription “The earth is the Lords and the fullness thereof”. THE TOWER OF LONDON Is situated on the north bank of the Thames near Tower Bridge. Take the Underground to the Tower Hill Station. It is best to visit on weekdays since it is very crowded on weekends. Try to get there early to avoid the long queues. The Ceremony of the Keys takes place daily at 0935 am. See the Crown Jewels first, then to the Bloody Tower, Wakefield Tower etc. It will take several hours. Here were imprisoned kings and queens, Christians and churched people depending on the religious persuasion of the monarch. Those accused of treason were also imprisoned here. Thomas Cranmer the Archbishop of Canterbury, Nicholas Ridley the Bishop of London, Hugh Latimer the Bishop of Worcester and John Bradford of Pilgrim Fathers fame were all kept here. The Crown Jewels It is recommended to make an early visit here to avoid long queues and crowds especially on weekends. Wakefield and St. Thomas Towers You can walk through the rooms of Edward I (1239 – 1307) and view a replica of Edward’s carved throne and his apartments. Lanthorn Tower It offers an exhibition of medieval artefacts and is open daily. Tower Hill In 1301 the first recorded execution took place here. Simon Sudbury, Bishop of London, who persecuted Wycliffe, was beheaded by Wat Tyler on Friday 14 June 1381during the Peasant’s Revolt. Bell Tower Sir Thomas More and Bishop John Fisher were imprisoned here in 1534. Queen Elizabeth I was also imprisoned here for six weeks in 1554. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page18 Traitor’s Gate Elizabeth I arrived here on Palm Sunday. Later as queen, she insisted on using the same gate. “What was good enough for Princess Elizabeth is good enough for Queen Elizabeth”. Queen’s House It was built for Anne Boleyn in 1530. A tablet to Guy Fawkes is here. This is where he was tortured. William Penn was imprisoned here. The interior is not open to the public. White Tower It was the original fortress. Bloody Mary married Phillip of Spain by proxy in the chapel here. See Henry VIII’s armour – both for when he was young and when he was old. Inscriptions by prisoners after Wat Tyler’s rebellion are in the crypt of the chapel. Beauchamp Tower Inscriptions have been scratched in the walls by various prisoners. TOWER BRIDGE Is the bridge on the Thames downstream from London Bridge. Take the Underground to Tower Hill Station. It is of particular interest to bridge-conscious citizens of the eastern seaboard of Australia. It was built in the 1890’s at a cost of 1.5 million pounds. The Gothic trappings were considered necessary in Victorian England to hide the stark nakedness of the bridge whose thousand-ton arms lift several times a week to admit ships into the Pool of London, the furthest inland ships navigate up the Thames. Take a bus back to Trafalgar Square. WHITEHALL Continuing north from the Houses of Parliament there are the following:The Cabinet War Rooms of Churchill and his advisers (most interesting); The Cenotaph; Downing Street with No 10 the Prime Minister’s Residence. The Banqueting House is on the river (eastern) side. Here Charles I was beheaded in 1649 on a stage erected outside the third window from the left on the second floor of the House (as you face the building). Opposite are the Horse Guards (change guard at 1100 hrs daily and 1000 hrs on Sunday). The ceremony takes 25 minutes. Further on is the War Office and the Admiralty. ALL SOUL’S CHURCH It is situated on Langham Place (just past the northern end of Regent Street). The closest station is Oxford Circus. The church is next to the BBC. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page19 It is distinguished by its sharply pointed steeple, a nightmare to any would-be parachutist over London. There is an evening service and one at 11.00 am on Sundays. This is John Stott’s church. A good example of how to run a worship service. THE EMBANKMENT Is known as Victoria Embankment on the northern side of the Thames River. It is beside Embankment Station (the District and Circle Lines). The Embankment was built a hundred years ago when all sewers were stopped from flowing into the Thames. Along the Embankment, Captain Scott’s ship “Discovery” is permanently moored. Also along the Embankment note the statue of Oliver Cromwell. There is also a statue of William Tyndale – third statue going westwards from the Embankment Underground Station. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 30.322’ E 00 07.428’. CLEOPATRA’S NEEDLE Between Hungerford and Waterloo Bridges is Cleopatra’s Needle. It is actually an obelisk of Thutmoses III dating to 1468BC and brought to England in 1878. Its twin stands in New York’s Central Park. It is 20.8 m tall and weighs 186 tons. The obelisk pre-dates the famous queen of Egypt and is so named because it was transported to London in a specially constructed tube-shaped barge named “Cleopatra”. STATUE OF BOUDICEA Is situated on the bank of the Thames – over the road from Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Its GPS co=ordinates are: N 51 30.065’ E 00 07.422’. The statue shows Queen Boudicea and her two daughters in a horse-drawn chariot. Boudicea (sometimes spelt Boudicca was the Queen who led the Iceni against Roman Rule in 60 AD after she had been flogged and her daughters raped. She rallied not only the Iceni but other local tribes and was at first successful in the fight against the Romans, but eventually was beaten by the Roman General Paulinus in 61 AD. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT They are located on the Embankment near Westminster Bridge. The closest station is Westminster Station (District & Circle Lines). The Houses were constructed in the middle of the 19th century. The original was destroyed by fire. The only original part saved is Westminster Hall – open to the public and where many famous trials took place – including that of Charles I. The House of Commons is at the Big Ben end of the building. The House of Lords at the other with a separate entrance through the Victoria Tower. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page20 The best view of the Houses of Parliament is from across the river – cross over Westminster Bridge directly below Big Ben. Statues of Winston Churchill and Richard the Lionheart – the Crusader – are in the Great Hall. WESTMINSTER ABBEY It is located on the corner of Abingdon Street and Victoria Street – near the Houses of Parliament. Take the Underground to Westminster or St. James Park. Entry to the Nave and precincts is free. For other areas there is a charge. Photography is only allowed on Wednesdays. Tradition has a church built here on Thorney Isle around AD 616. However the earliest authentic record is of a Benedictine Abbey around 740. The Abbey was dedicated to Peter and called “West Minster” – it is west of the City of London. Edward the Confessor (d. 1066) rebuilt the Abbey. It has been rebuilt and added to consistently through the centuries. Since the time of Henry VIII, it has belonged to the Church of England. All but two of England’s Sovereigns have been crowned here since Harold in 1066. Winston Churchill is remembered with an inscription of green marble a few metres inside the main door. He is buried at Bladon, Oxfordshire. On the pillar to the right is a portrait of Richard II – the oldest contemporary portrait of an English Monarch. In the north choir aisle, under the organ, note the medallion to Charles Darwin. The lectern is in memory of William Carey. Along with kings and queens, Mary Queen of Scots is buried on the south of Henry VII Chapel, being removed from her burial site at Peterborough. Richard II and wife Anne of Bohemia, with links to Huss and the Lollards are found on the right side behind the Altar. On the south choir aisle – musicians corner – has medallions and or tablets to Isaac Watts, John and Charles Wesley, Henry Lyte (Abide With Me) also William Tyndale. The Stone of Scone – supposedly used by Jacob as a pillow – and used in coronation ceremonies has been returned to Scotland. Burials in the nave took place since the Reformation. Many monuments or memorials are here of people buried elsewhere. ST. MARGARET’S CHURCH It is situated alongside Westminster Abbey. It was originally built in the 11th century by Edward the Confessor. It has been replaced and renovated by Edward IV and again by Henry VII and Henry VIII. It is the mother church of the City of Westminster – and the parish church of the House of Commons. Dr. John Reynolds preached here. He also proposed at the Hampton Court Conference that a Bible be prepared, which led to the KJV. John Owen a chaplain to Oliver Cromwell preached here. William Caxton of printing press fame (1477) is buried in the churchyard. Sir Walter Raleigh was buried in front of the altar (after de-capitation) – a brass plaque by the east door commemorates this, as does a memorial on the door. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page21 George Whitfield preached here without permission in February 1739, and the sexton locked him in. A stained glass window celebrates the engagement of Catherine of Aragon to Arthur (Henry VIII’s eldest brother). Samuel Pepys was married here (1655) as was Winston Churchill (1908). ST. JAMES’ PALACE It is situated on the right hand side of the Mall just before Buckingham Palace. This was the home of the Queen Mother. Pictures of the guards may be taken here – NOT at Buckingham Palace. Ambassadors to England are still accredited to the “Court of St. James”. Walk along the Mall to the Duke of York Steps, where the Duke of York’s Column overlooks Waterloo Place. A memorial to Florence Nightingale is here. THE ORANGE STREET CONGRETATIONAL CHURCH It is situated on Orange Street between Leicester Square and the National Gallery. It is just east from St Martin’s Street toward Charing Cross Road. It is built on the site of a Huguenot Chapel established in 1693. It was then known as the Temple of Leicester Fields and was the worship centre of Huguenot refugees from France. The house of Isaac Newton was adjacent on the corner of St Martin’s Street and he regularly attended the services here. After the English revival led by John & Charles Wesley the church became an English Protestant Church. Augustus Toplady became the minister here and his great hymn “Rock of Ages” was first sung in this church. The church became a Congregational Church which opted not to join the United Reformed Church and has continued as a Congregational Church. THE SITE OF ISAAC NEWTON’S HOUSE It was situated at 35 St Martin’s Street, to the south of Leicester Square. Today the site has the Westminster Reference Library building and a plaque on the building says:- “Sir Isaac Newton lived in a house on this site from 1710 to 1727”. There are two more detailed inscriptions on the staircase leading from the entrance to the main reading room. The Library building also covers the site of the original Leicester Fields Huguenot Chapel PICCADILLY Take a short cut from the Palace through Green Park to Piccadilly. The offices of Qantas are here, and nearby is Fortnum and Mason, the most distinguished grocery shop in the world, carpeted ankle deep where you are served by assistants in full morning dress of striped trousers and frock coat. The Royal Academy of Arts is opposite, and a walk through Burlington Arcade (next to the Royal Academy) will expose you to high class shopping! Piccadilly leads into Piccadilly Circus, with its swirling neon signs and garish cinemas and where life never stops. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page22 The Statue of Eros, the god of love, is atop the fountain. OXFORD STREET Oxford Street is the main shopping street for middle-class London. It runs from Marble Arch past the large department store Selfridges at one end, to Tottenham Court Road. It intersects Regent Street at right angles to Oxford Circus. Just north of Oxford Circus is All Souls Church where John Stott preaches. Oxford Street is also the home of the BBC. HYDE PARK Is a very large park in the centre of London. On Sunday mornings, soapbox orators hold forth on any topic under the sun. At the northeast corner is Marble Arch (Tyburn) where in ancient times public hangings took place. The Arch itself used to form the entrance to Buckingham Palace, but was removed to its present site because it was too narrow for the coaches. TYBURN Is situated in the northeast corner of Hyde Park at the corner of Edgeware and Bayswater Road near Marble Arch. It was originally named after Tyburn River – a tributary of the Thames which had several mouths from Green Park to just south of the Houses of Parliament – now cared for by sewers. It was a place of execution from around 1300 to 1783. Around the gibbet open galleries were built for the public to view the spectacle. John James a Sabbath keeper was hung here in 1661. BUCKINGHAM PALACE The Palace of the Monarch of the United Kingdom is located on the Mall SW1. The Royal Standard is flown when the Queen is in residence. The Palace is usually NOT open to the public. Special times are arranged by ticket. The Changing of the Guard Ceremony takes place daily in summer and every alternate day during winter, usually at 11.30 hrs. Check for times when in London. The Changing of the Mounted Guard Ceremony takes place at Whitehall daily Mon – Sat at 1100 hrs and Sun at 1000 hrs. KENSINGTON MUSEUMS ETC Take the Underground to Knightsbridge Station and then walk down Brompton Road – or take a bus to the corner of Exhibition Road. 1. Victoria and Albert Museum. Address: Cromwell Gardens. Has a wealth of Fine Arts etc. 2. Natural History Museum. Address: Next door in Cromwell Road. Has Dinosaurs & mammoths, a marvellous bird and rock collection. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page23 3. Science Museum. Behind the Natural History Museum on the corner of Imperial College Road and Exhibition Road, it has everything from Galileo to spaceships, has Stephenson’s “Rocket” one of the first locomotives, and a wealth of everything in between. 4. Aeronautical Museum. Address: In Exhibition Road in the Imperial College – part of the London University. It is a museum of flight, including the Smith Brothers’ Vickers-Vimy which made the first flight to Australia. 5. Kensington Palace Museum. Address: In Kensington Palace at the western end of Kensington Gardens. It contains coronation robes, royal wedding outfits including that of Princess Diana, and Queen Victoria’s dolls house etc. 6, Brompton Oratory. Address: On Brompton Road, Kensington. This is a famous Catholic Church associated with John Henry Newman (Hymn – Lead Kindly Light) and the Oxford Movement. ALBERT MEMORIAL Is located on South Carriage Drive – just across Kensington Gore from the Royal Albert Hall. It is an enormous marble gilt and enamelled metal structure honouring the husband of Queen Victoria. It was built over a 20-year period at a cost of 120,000 pounds. ALBERT HALL Is located on Kensington Gore a small block north of the Royal College of Music (with its collection of historic musical instruments). It seats 12000 with a platform accommodating 1000 performers and a pipe organ, which has 9000 pipes. It is famous for the ‘Proms’ – but also has other concerts – and even boxing bouts. MADAME TUSSAUD’S AND THE PLANETARIUM Take the Underground to Baker Street Station. It has splendid wax effigies of the famous from ancient to contemporary times. It also has working models of famous events. The Chamber of Horrors which includes scenes of criminals and martyrs is good. The Planetarium is next door to Madame Tussaud’s. It is cheaper to buy a ticket for both at the same time (if you plan to visit both). WHITEFIELD’S TABERNACLE It was situated at the corner of Leonard Street and Tabernacle Street – just a little north of Wesley’s City Road Chapel. Whitefield’s followers built a church here in 1741. Today the Congregational Church is used as a school. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page24 WESLEY’S CHAPEL Is situated on City Road about 10 blocks from Bank Station. The nearest station is Old Street on the Northern or Circle lines. Its GPS coordinates are: N 51 31.422’ E 00 05.223’. Note the statue of Susannah Wesley (John’s mother) in the front. Note the commission John Wesley claimed: - “The World is My Parish”. Wesley moved from the old government arms Foundry (bought in 1739 after it had been wrecked by an explosion) to this present site in 1778. The house next door was acquired for Wesley in 1779. In the church (Margaret Thatcher was married here) note the pulpit from which Wesley preached – though now reduced in height by a section. John Wesley’s grave is outside at the rear of the church. To the right hand side of the church behind the house is the Memorial to the Foundry Chapel where Wesley preached in his early days. Here are some benches from the Foundry and of great interest the organ on which Charles Wesley composed his many hymns. Charles Wesley is known more for his words of hymns rather than the music. Some of them are:- And Can It Be That I Should Gain; Christ The Lord Is Risen Today; Jesus Lover of My Soul; O For a Heart to Praise My God; O Love Divine What Hast Thou Done; and Soldiers of Christ Arise. The Wesley Museum Is situated in the basement of the church. Phone (020) 7253 2262 for group bookings or enquiries. It has a good display regarding Wesley and the history of Methodism. Susannah’s gloves and a Bible that survived the Rectory fire of 1709 at Epworth are here. Also John Wesley’s certificate as a priest is on display and a letter of advice from his father. A hymnbook of the Moravians (led by Zinzendorf) and a letter from John Wesley to his mother after his visit to the Moravian colony are also here. Note the class tickets and band tickets that show the Methodist Societies were divided into small bands (groups) for spiritual fellowship and nurture. Letters to Joseph Cownley are here, telling how Wesley kept control of the Methodist preachers and societies. An interesting letter kept here is one to William Wilberforce encouraging his fight against slavery. John Wesley’s House It was Wesley’s home from 1779. You enter what was the parlour. Note the prints of the Foundry – Wesley’s London headquarters for 40 years. There is also a picture of the interior of the chapel with the pulpit then nearly 5 metres high. The preaching plan for January/February 1791 is there, also other pictures. Behind this room was the dining room (now the Documents Room) with a picture of Wesley at age 62. There are also busts of Wesley, Adam Clarke and Whitefield. Also on display is Wesley’s travelling communion set, a hymnbook copied by hand, letters and communion cups. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page25 At the top of the stairs is the Study with Wesley’s walnut bureau with secret drawers and the chair used by Wesley when he presided over the first Conference in 1744; plus many of his books. Behind the study is the bedroom with a bed similar to that used by Wesley. The other furniture was his. A portrait here shows him aged 86 and a print of “The Death of Wesley” who died in this room 2 March 1791. From this bedroom through the door is his prayer room. This was the “Powerhouse of Methodism”. He began his day here at 4.00 am. Up another flight of stairs takes you to the rooms used to accommodate his preachers. The Museum Room here has various articles belonging to Wesley – spectacles, pens, baptismal gown and baby rattle and other memorabilia. Next to this room is that used by Charles Wesley. It contains a hymnbook brought back to John Wesley from the Moravian Settlement in 1738; a letter from George Whitefield; an oboe used to accompany singing at Wesley’s meetings and some other items of Charles Wesley. SEE APPENDIX 1 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WESLEY BUNHILL FIELDS CEMETERY Is located opposite across City Road from Wesley’s Chapel. Originally a Saxon burial ground (bone-hill fields) and a non-conformist cemetery from 1623 to 1852. The name Bunhill Fields came from “Bone Hill” as the area had been a burial site for over 1000 years. It was closed as a burial ground in 1854. Many non-conformists were buried here – ‘outside the walls’. Here are the graves of Susannah Wesley, John Bunyan, Isaac Watts the hymnwriter, Daniel Defoe (of Robinson Crusoe fame), and William Blake – also the sons of Oliver Cromwell – Richard and Henry. Near here at 125 Bunhill Row, (opposite side to City Road & Wesley Centre) John Milton wrote “Paradise Regained” in 1674. Close to Bunhill Row are the Quaker Gardens and burial ground. ST. GILES CHURCH CRIPPLEGATE Situated a little east of the Barbican in Fore Street (between Aldersgate and Moorgate Streets). Originally founded in 1090, it survived the Great Fire – being outside the walls. The present building dates to 1545. It was burnt out in 1940 and restored in 1960. John Foxe (of Book of Martyrs fame) attended here, as did Launcelot Andrewes – a court preacher and a translator of the King James Bible. In 1665, during the Great Plague, 8000 died in this parish with 151 funerals on 18 August. Oliver Cromwell was married here in 1620. John Milton was buried here 1674. Dr Annersley – Susanna Wesley’s father – was the minister here from 1658 to 1662. Dr Annersley was ejected from his pulpit in 1662 under the Act of Uniformity. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page26 MUSEUM OF LONDON Is situated at the corner of London Wall and Aldersgate Street. The nearest Underground Station is St. Pauls or Barbican. It has many items and exhibits of London life from pre-historic times to the present. A Roman Wall painting from the 2nd century is here. There is a working model of the Great Fire of London in 1666. Several 19th century London shop fronts are preserved. Plus the Lord Mayor’s coach. Outside behind the museum on London Wall (name of the street) can be seen the remains of the Walls of London in a small park. On the first level – outside the museum is the brass scroll with the message from John Wesley’s Journal regarding his conversion at this site, and a plaque. The GPS co-ordinates are:- N 51 31.063’ E 00 05.779’. ALDERSGATE STREET Is located about four blocks west of City Road and leads to St. Pauls. The GPS coordinates are: N 51 31.020’ E 00 05.860’. Here John Wesley was converted at the meeting of the Moravians, 24 May 1738. Charles Wesley had been converted three days prior to that of John Wesley. This resulted in a spate of hymns being composed. Note the small plaque at footpath level near the intersection of Aldersgate Street and London Wall. Above on the first floor outside the Museum of London (Nettleton Court) is a large bronze scroll - and the Methodist Flame. On the plaque are the details of Wesley’s conversion from his Journal. “In the evening I went very unwillingly to a society in Aldersgate Street, where one was reading Luther’s preface to the epistle to the Romans about a quarter before nine. While he was describing the change, which God works in the heart through faith in Christ, I felt my heart strangely warmed. I felt I did trust in Christ, Christ alone, for salvation; and an assurance was given me that He had taken “my sins”, even “mine” and saved “me” from the law of sin and death”. Wesley’s Journal Vol 1 p 101,102. OLD ROMAN WALL Note the old city wall from Roman times near the Museum of London. GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 30.047’ E 00 05.769’. ST BOTOLPH’S CHURCH Situated just south of the roundabout where John Wesley’s conversion took place, on the corner of Little Britain and St Martins le grand streets is this church. John Wesley’s father – Samuel Wesley was the curate here for about a year. There is a Wesley window in the church. Outside next to the church and at the entrance to Postman’s Park is a plaque “This tablet is erected to the Glory of God in commemoration of the evangelical conversion of the Rev John Wesley M.A. on May 24, 1738”. Just a few m north and around the corner in Little Britain Street there is a plaque about the door at No 12 denoting this was the site of Charles Wesley’s conversion on May 21, 1738. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page27 THE CHARTERHOUSE Situated on Charterhouse Square - just off Aldersgate Street (near Barbican Station). Here was situated the school attended by John Wesley from 1714 to 1720. He would walk to and from his home at Epworth each term end to here. There is bust of John Wesley with details of his schooling here on the wall of the cloister outside St Thomas Charterhouse Chapel. It is across the Charterhouse Square and on the northern side of the square and reads ”John Wesley 1703 – 1791, Scholar of Charterhouse 1714 – 1720 , “The World is My Parish”. Conducted tours of the Charterhouse take place on Wednesdays from April to July at 2.15 pm. The school moved to Godalming in Surrey in 1872. ST. MARY WOOLNOTH CHURCH Is situated on the corner of King William Street and Lombard Street. This is the church of which John Newton (writer of Amazing Grace) was vicar. SEE APPENDIX 2 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN NEWTON FINSBURY SQUARE Situated on the eastern side of City Road just north of Chiswell Street/Sun Street corner. Here in the times of Wesley it was known as Moorfields. John and Charles Wesley, as well as George Whitefield would preach to multitudes of people OLD BAILEY Situated in Old Bailey Street (Off Newgate Street) and known as the Central Criminal Court. This building with its curved front is the former site of Newgate Prison. Public executions took place outside Newgate from 1783 until 1868 – and within the prison until 1901. Some famous prisoners included William Penn and Daniel Defoe. Elizabeth Fry was instrumental in improving the lot of prisoners. On special days (in the legal calendar) judges still carry small posies – a reminder of the malodorous prison and the past. ST. SEPULCHRES CHURCH Is located on the corner of Gilspur Street – opposite the Old Bailey. This ancient church goes back to the Crusaders, although it was rebuilt in the 15th century. Until 1880, the bells of the church were tolled on the occasion of an execution at Newgate. On a pillar is displayed a handbell used at midnight preceding an execution, by the bellman at Newgate. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page28 SMITHFIELD (MARTYRDOM SITE) Situated at the end of Gilspur Street. Its GPS coordinates are: N 51 31.111’ E 00 06.028’. From St. Pauls, take Newgate Street – and then Gilspur Street is the second on the right. Smithfield was originally ‘Smoothfield’ – a grassy expanse outside the city walls. From 1150 until 1855, Smithfield was a horse and cattle market. Since 1855 it is the site of London’s meat market. Going down Gilspur Street on the left-hand side is a memorial to Charles Lamb, the English essayist. On the right side of Gilspur Street past St. Bartholomew’s Hospital – nearly to the end, is a memorial to William Wallace – “Brave Heart” the Scottish patriot who was executed here. GPS co-ordinates: N 51 31.100’ E 00 06.027’. Smithfield was used as an execution site from an early time until the reign of Henry IV. Wat Tyler, the leader of the Peasant’s Revolt was slain here by the mayor in front of Richard II. Under the Tudors (particularly under Mary) many were martyred here. Note the memorial in the midst of the small park on the left-hand side of Gilspur Street, by the market entrance. Some Smithfield Martyrs 18 October 1511 – William Suceling and John Bannister who had formerly recanted, returned again to the profession of the faith and were burnt alive, 24 September 1518 – Richard Fitz-James was condemned as a heretic. He was chained to a stake at Smithfield and martyred while declaring himself a Lollard and giving assent to Wycliffe’s teachings, and though he had recanted he now wanted to show the world he was ready to die for truth – sealing his testimony with his blood. About 1519. James Brewster of Colchester, a follower of Wycliffe, and even though exemplary in life and manners, suffered at Smithfield – this was papal revenge. About 1532. Richard Byfield was put into prison, endured whipping for adhering to Luther’s teachings. Byfield a monk at Barnes in Surrey had been converted reading Tyndale’s New Testament. Unmentionable torture, beatings, tied up by the arms, shut up in dungeons with filth, whipped at the post several times – until there was almost no flesh on his back. Taken to Lollard’s Tower in Lambeth Palace (Archbishop of London’s palace) and chained by the neck to the wall. Beaten every day. Condemned, degraded and burnt at Smithfield. John Tewkesbury. He read Tyndale’s New Testament, abjured, repented and brought before the Bishop of London. Condemned, he suffered so much punishment, he was almost dead. Then he was burnt at the stake at Smithfield. Collins behaved as a madman in church. As the priest lifted up the host, he lifted up his dog over his head. Collins and his dog were both burned at Smithfield. July 1541. Dr Cuthbert Barnes, Thomas Garnet and William Jerome were brought before the court of the Bishop of London. “Do you believe the saints prayed for us?” Barnes replied, “I will leave that to God, but I will pray for you!” All three were chained to one stake at Smithfield. 30 June 1555. John Bradford was a chaplain to Bishop Ridley and a friend of Latimer. He was ordained in 1550 as a deacon. Just five years later – after an imprisonment in the Tower of London with Latimer, Cranmer and Ridley, he was Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page29 taken to Newgate prison late at night with a fellow prisoner John Leaf. There he was burnt at the stake at Smithfield. 24 April 1556. Two ministers – Robert Drakes of Thundesley of Essex and William Tims rector of Hockley, Essex were burnt at the stake here. Thus were people tortured to death. At this time the King said in Parliament: “Whosoever reads the Scriptures in the mother-tongue (Wycliffe’s learning) would forfeit land, cattle, body, life and goods from their heirs forever, and be condemned as heretics to God, enemies to the Crown, and most errant traitors to the land”. Within 50 years the King of England had commissioned a Bible in English (KJV). SEE APPENDIX 3 POEM “SMIITHFIELD”. PETTICOAT LANE MARKET Take the Underground to Aldgate Station. Petticoat Lane (actually Middlesex Street) Market is only open on Sunday. Recommended that you don’t buy anything and watch your wallets etc for pickpockets. PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET Even more famous than Petticoat Lane, but only open on Saturdays. HAMPTON COURT Take the train from Waterloo Station to East Molesey or by Green Line bus from Victoria Bus Station (near the Victoria Railway Station). It was the Palace of Cardinal Wolsey. Note the Great Vine, the famous Maze and the extensive rooms of the palace. The grounds are well adorned with flowers. Note the sunken gardens! This was given to Wolsey by Henry VIII. William of Orange who succeeded James II added to it. BRITISH MUSEUM Take the Underground to Tottenham Court Road Station. Walk down the eastern side, past the Dominion Cinema and turn right into Great Russell Street. The museum is about ten minutes walk from the station. Entrance is free. It is also accessible from Russell Square Station on the Picadilly Line. It is easy to spend a whole day here. A number of the Museum’s highlights include: The Rosetta Stone. The tri-lingual inscription that provided the key to deciphering the hieroglyphic script of Egypt is on the Ground floor near the main entrance. It comes from about 196 BC and was found by the French army. Jean-François Champollion deciphered it. The Shabaka Stone. It is within sight of the Rosetta Stone. Pharoah Shabaka writes of the God Ptah who made man and breathed into him breath and rested when his work was done. The Tell el Armarna Tablets. These are letters to Egypt’s Amenhotep III and Akhnaton from cities and towns in Palestine. They are on the Top floor near the Egyptian and Mesopotamian areas. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page30 Mummies. There is quite an array of mummies, decorated boxes and even of predynastic burials without the benefit of coffins. Also mummified animals and a vast array of funeral furniture and objects – these are on the Top floor. The Black Obelisk. It records the surrender of King Jehu of Israel to Shalmaneser III of Assyria. At two metres high it is hard to miss seeing it. It is located on the Ground floor in Room 19. Winged Human-headed Bulls. These are from the palace of Sennacherib at Ninevah and other Assyrian cities. They are on the Ground floor. The Siege of Lachish. It is depicted in reliefs from Sennacherib’s palace at Ninevah. Numerous objects from the siege are here – sling-stones, arrowheads etc. These are also on the Ground floor. The Cyrus Cylinder. It describes the conquest of Babylon by the Persians in 539 BC from the Persian point of view. It is on the First floor. Hezekiah’s Tunnel Inscription. From Jerusalem, this is located on the First Floor together with Samarian ivories, porcelain plate from Revelation 17 as shown in Luther’s Bible, and silver objects from Persia illustrating the prophecy of Daniel 2. Objects from Ur of the Chaldees. Sir Leonard Woolley found these objects including a restored harp, fragments of a skull from the royal “death-pits” and temple objects. They are on the First floor. The Flood Tablet. This describes the great flood and the salvation of Utnapushtim. It is part of the Gilgamesh Epic. It is on the First Floor near the Tell el Armarna tablets. The Taylor Prism. It has the annals of Sennacherib at the siege of Jerusalem. It describes Hezekiah being ‘shut up in Jerusalem like a bird in a cage’. First floor. The Hammurabi Code. It is a replica – the original is in the Louvre. It was inscribed with the laws of Babylon from about the time of Moses. It is on the First floor. Bricks from Babylon. They are inscribed with the name and titles of Nebuchadnezzar. The Moabite Stone. Another replica with the original in the Louvre. It describes the revolt of Mesha of Moab against Ahab of Israel as recorded in the Bible. It is on the Ground floor. Ephesus. Here are fragments from the Temple of Diana (Artemis) – once one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Elgin Marbles. Fragments of a sculpture from the Parthenon, Greece are stunningly arranged in a special hall. Biblical Manuscripts. The Codex Sinaiticus, the Codex Alexandrinus, the Lindisfarne Gospels, Wycliffe’s Bible, and the Mss – Romanut Version are here as well as many other early copies of the Bible. These are right near the main entrance on the Ground floor. John Wesley’s “Spirit to God” letter. It gives his concept of death. Penitential Taxes. These letters are originals and tell how much to pay to get out of torment for murder, theft, rape etc. Darwin’s Letter. His “I believe in Natural Selection…” letter is in the correspondence room close to the Magna Carta. Ground floor. Shalmaneser III’s Obelisk. This comes from Nimrud. Shalmaneser’s Palace Gates. These are from Balawet, east of Nimrud. The Nabonidus Cylinder. It mentions Babylon. Miscellaneous. Many items including the Magna Carta, and famous writers and their handwriting etc are right at the main entrance on the Ground floor. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page31 TOY MUSEUM Is located at 1 Scala Street right beside Goodge Street Station. It is open from 1000 – 1700 hrs Monday to Saturday. There is a charge to enter. It has all manner of toys, puppets, dolls, and dolls’ houses, trains, cars etc Robert Louis Stevenson was a customer of Pollock’s toyshop – the origin and donor for the museum. GUILDHALL Take the Underground to St. Pauls. Thence to Gresham Street. Guildhall is not open to the public – except the Clock Museum in the adjoining public library (entrance from Aldermanbury Street). It was built in 1411 with Dick Whittington’s estate paying for the paving. It was rebuilt after the Great Fire and after World War II. Dick Whittington was four times Lord Mayor of London: In 1397, 1397-8, 1406-7 and 1419-20. An engraver Renbold Elstrack portrayed him in the early 17th century in a classic pose with his hand on a skull. Angry protests made him change it into a cat – hence the legend of Dick Whittington and his cat. Henry Garnet one of the conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot was tried here (as were many others during several centuries. Guarding the Musician’s Gallery are the giant (almost 3 m) mythical figures of Gog and Magog. Some sculptures from the Roman Temple of Mithras are found here. THE CLOCK MUSEUM Is located in the public library which is part of the Guildhall. The entrance is from Aldermanbury Street. See the perpetual motion clock with a ball that rolls 2522 miles in a year. There are also 600 other timepieces in the Clock Museum including Mary Queen of Scots’ skull shaped watch. HORNIMAN MUSEUM Is situated to the south of London at 100 London Road, Forest Hill SE23 3PQ. The Horniman Museum contains a few Egyptian and ethnic artefacts. It is especially interesting for its collection of objects from the Inquisition in Lima, Peru, including a torture chain. Hours are 1030 – 1800 hrs Monday to Saturday and 1400 – 1800 hours on Sundays. LONDON DUNGEON Is situated on the south bank of the Thames in Tooley Street about 200 m east of London Bridge Station. Here is an expanded version of the chamber of horrors at Madame Tussauds. It has macabre exhibits of Jack the Ripper, a Black Death Tumbrel (cart for carrying the dead), and an exhibit showing the practice of being drawn and quartered and also being broken on a wheel – all methods of torture through the latter Middle Ages. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page32 The Druids are also shown performing a human sacrifice at Stonehenge; Anne Boleyn is beheaded; witchcraft; and the Great Plague etc. ‘Realistic’ sound accompanies the exhibits. ROTHERHITHE Is situated on the south bank of the Thames directly opposite Wapping and about 2 km east of the Tower Bridge. The closest station is Rotherhithe on the East London Line. In July 1620 the “Mayflower” first sailed to Wapping on the north bank and then came over the Thames to Rotherhithe where it stayed briefly before sailing down the river to Leigh-on-Sea. The ”Mayflower” again docked here in 1621 on its return from its historic voyage to New England. In 1838 the “Temeraire” a surviving fighting ship from Nelson’s fleet at Trafalgar (and painted so vividly by Turner) was towed here to be broken up. St. Mary’s churchyard is the burial site for the captain of the “Mayflower” Here also the communion table and two Bishop’s chairs are made from timber from the “Temeraire”. The Mayflower Inn here at 117 Rotherhithe Street takes its named from the famous ship. SEE APPENDIX 4 FOR SUMMARY OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS THE CLINK EXPOSITION Situated on the south bank of the Thames at Southwark westwards some 500 m from London Bridge Station and right beside the rail bridge over the Thames. The address is 1Clink Street, London SE1. Use Underground Station London Bridge. Originally it was the prison for the Bishop of Winchester and until 1626 associated with Winchester House – the Bishop’s residence. From 1127 King Henry I granted the Bishop of Winchester an estate known as “The Liberty of the See of Winchester in the Clink in the Borough of Southwark’. This also gave the Bishop the right to try and sentence wrongdoers in his own court. The Clink Prison was owned by the Bishop of Winchester. The Bishop also licensed brothels (called ‘stewhouses’) on the south bank of the Thames and from the 12th century the Clink was used to house prostitutes. The ‘Clink’ Exhibition also has displays of prostitution which was rife in Southwark. The term ‘in clink” came from those being incarcerated here. In the 1500’s both Protestant and Catholics were imprisoned here depending who was the monarch and the disposition to dissent. FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM Is situated at 2 Lambeth Palace Road on the South Bank – near the entrance to St. Thomas’s Hospital and about 200 m east of Westminster Bridge. From the underground travel to Westminster Station and cross over the bridge or else proceed to Waterloo Station and walk quite some distance southwest. There is a charge. It houses many original documents and photographs and shows many innovations she made to health care during her life. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page33 GREENWICH Situated on the south bank of the Thames, it is accessible by Docklands Light Rail (part of the Metro/Underground Network) – then by a pedestrian tunnel under the Thames. On the right as you come out of the tunnel is moored Sir Francis Chichester’s little boat Gypsy Moth IV in which he sailed around the world. The Cutty Sark – the famous clipper ship is also on display here and may be visited. In the park above the town is the Henry VIII oak where he courted Anne Boleyn. He also waited here for the signal of her execution. The Greenwich Observatory This is 0° Longitude. Walk up the hill or through the park. Here on display are Hershel telescopes etc and standard measures in the wall near the main entrance. It is the ‘done’ thing to have your photo taken with one foot either side of the 0° line of longitude. The British National Maritime Museum Is just a short distance to the left as you come past the Cutty Sark. Here the Nelson Exhibition is a must for a student of history. It is on display from 1995 to 2005, the latter date being the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar. Also in the museum among many exhibits is the Chronometer of the Bounty – one of the first perfected by Larcum Kendall to determine longitude. HIGHGATE CEMETERY Situated at Highgate on the Northern Underground line. Nearest station is Archway. Here Karl Marx is buried (d. 1883) A huge black bust of himself adorns the grave. TRIPS FROM LONDON TRIP 1. WATFORD, ST. ALBANS AND WALTHAM ABBEY HAMSTEAD HEATH Situated some 10 km from Central London and a little east on the A41 is Hampstead (not far from Holloway). Hampstead Heath is the open space – parkland with meadows, lakes and ponds – between Hampstead and Holloway. The cemetery here at Hampstead Heath has the grave of Karl Marx. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page34 WATFORD Is situated about 30 km northwest of London and just south of the M25 ring road. The South England Conference Office is here at 25 St. John’s Road. On the road out of Watford to St. Albans via Garston – the A405 – is Stanborough Park. Here is the office for the British Union Conference and the Stanborough Park church and school. ST. ALBANS It is located to the northwest of London between the M1 and the A1. The train service from London is by British Rail. As you enter the town there is a large park – the ancient Roman site of Verulamium. Ruins of walls, baths and the amphitheatre of the Roman town are still visible. Nearby is a museum of Roman artefacts etc. Near here at 119 St. Peter’s Street is the Trans-European Division Headquarters. St. Alban’s Abbey Is one of the longest churches in England. Inside the Abbey note the tomb of St. Alban who was executed here in 303 during the reign of Diocletian – becoming the first Christian martyr in Britain. Note the frescoes on the pillars. There is a shrine to King Offa (carving on the shrine). Here is the Tomb of Amphibalus – the executioner who was converted. There is a painting of the second executioner with his eyes falling out. The Monk’s Gallery was the place from where they guarded the shrine. Near the Tomb is a ‘priest’s hole’ where priests hid. On the right hand side halfway from the entrance is the tomb of the hermit who banned the nightingales from singing so as not to disturb his prayers. Outside the Abbey – the river which dried up at St. Alban’s approach. Some have found and visited underground rooms well below the sanctuary. Just outside the Abbey gateway is a plaque in the wall that records the martyrdom of George Tankerfield in 1556. LUTON HOO Here between St. Albans and Luton is a stately house. WALTHAM ABBEY Waltham is located off the A10 to the north of London just north of the M25. The Abbey is open 1000 – 1600 hrs (summertime to 1800 hrs). This is where Henry VIII met Cranmer. Cranmer removed all the images from the Abbey – you can see where they once were. On display is a Madonna and Child broken and buried at that time. King Harold 1 of 1066 fame is buried outside behind the Abbey. In his day this was behind the high altar. A statue of King Harold is on the front of the Abbey. Foxe who wrote Foxe’s Book of Martyrs lived in Waltham. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page35 TRIP 2. TO THE EAST – CHELMSFORD & COLCHESTER GRAYS Situated near the Thames a little east of the M25 and south of the A13. In the park beside a large roundabout, coming out of town (sports centre and tower blocks on the left and the park on the right) are Dene Holes. Dene Holes were holes dug in the ground originally for lime pits, but used to hide from the Danes – hence Dene hole. HORDON-ON-THE-HILL About 9 km out of Grays on the A13, turn left to Hordon-on-the-Hill. On the right going up the hill are a couple of houses. One has a plaque mentioning that the martyr was burnt under “Bloody Mary”, When coming from seeing here husband burnt, the wife found the sheriff clearing the family belongings out of the house. The story is in Foxe’s “Book of Martyrs”. The sheriff’s inventory still exists in the Public Records Office. Near the top of the hill is the Hotel Charrington – “The Bell”. The execution site is at the bottom of the car park of the hotel. The hotel staff knew of the story. BRENTWOOD Situated just south of the A12 at the intersection of the A129. An obelisk in the centre of the town at the intersection of High Street and Ongar Road commemorates the death of William Hunter, a 19 year old burnt 26 March 1555 for reading the Bible. The GPS c-ordinates are: N 51 37.283’ E 00 18.335’. SEE APPENDIX 5 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM HUNTER GREENSTED Greensted is situated just west of Chipping Ongar, a short distance south of the A414 and on the road from the A113. The oldest wooden church in Britain from 1013AD is here. The marriage register records the marriage of one of the Tolpuddle men after transportation. BILLERICAY A little to the east of Brentwood along the A129, or southwest from Chelmsford on the B1007. The “Mayflower” is pictured on the town sign in London Road. GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 37.476’ E 00 24.270’. The building at 61 High Street was erected in 1501 AD. It has been a café with different names through the years. GPS co-ordinates: N 51 37.569’ E 00 25.091’. To this building the Pilgrim Fathers (or the leaders) came from Leigh-on-Sea some 23 km southeast and made their final decision to sail to the New World. It is noted by the Town Trail 35A sign. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page36 The owner of this building at that time, a Christopher Martin, became one of the passengers on the “Mayflower” along with his wife Marie and their four servants. Christopher Martin had some shares in Virginia and was a partner in Ralph Hamor’s plantation. Just along High Street is another building noted by the plaque Town Trail 33 to the religious liberty granted to dissenters in 1672. GPS co-ordinates: N 51 37.514’ E00 25.035’. SEE APPENDIX 4 FOR A SUMMARY OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS RAYLEIGH Is situated on the A129 (and A1015) about 8 km northwest of Southend-on-Sea. There is a Martyr’s Memorial – a large granite obelisk in High Street. It records the martyrdom of Thomas Causton 26 March 1555, and John Ardingly on 10 June 1555 as well as the martyrdom at Smithfield of Robert Drakes and William Tims, ministers from this area – both martyred 24 April 1556. LEIGH-ON-SEA It is situated a little west of Southend-on-Sea on the northern side of the Thames estuary. The Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Delftshaven, Rotterdam to London. The “Mayflower” first berthed at Wapping Old Stairs, then sailed down the Thames River to anchor off Leigh-on-Sea July 1620. Here the ship re-victualled. It was moored off Leigh Strand – at the back of the Leigh Heritage Centre. GPS co-ordinates: N 51 32.400’ E 00 39.009’. “The Mayflower” was part owned by John Vassell of Cockethurst Farm, Eastwood, and a neighbouring village to Leigh-on-Sea. Leigh-on-Sea was then a deep harbour. It is now silted up and used by shell fishing boats only. The Strand steps were built in 1615 by Richard Chester, the Controller of Trinity House. The Pilgrim Fathers would have used the Strand Steps. ASHINGDON Is located about 9 km north of Southend-on-Sea. The church on the hill overlooks the site of the Battle of Ashingdon where Canute conquered England. In the church is a model of a Viking ship and a Danish flag. Denmark assisted with the cost of restoration of the church. CHELMSFORD Is a larger town northeast of London on the A12 – also at the intersection of the A130. Here was the first radio factory built in 1899 for the construction of telegraphs and later the first ‘wirelesses’. A plaque on the outside wall of the Marconi Communications Building indicates the site. The Council sells books showing the part played by local residents in following the “Mayflower” to America in the pursuit of religious liberty. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page37 WOODHAM MORTIMER Is situated about 15 km from Chelmsford on the A414 to Maldon. St. Margaret’s Church has a Norman wall dating to 1080 (beside the entry). The church was rebuilt in 1891. GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 42.979’ E 00 38.257’. Dr. Chamberlen’s Tombstone & Grave In the cemetery in the churchyard – midway between the church and the Chamberlen home is Dr. Peter Chamberlen’s tombstone. It was restored by the Royal College of Obstetricians and Gynaecologists (who keep his forceps in their museum). The tombstone testifies to Chamberlen’s belief in baptism by immersion and the Bible Sabbath. The reverse side (nearest the road) has a poem attesting to his Bible belief in the sleep of death and awaiting the coming of Christ. Dr. Chamberlen’s House Next door to the church is the home owned by Dr. Peter Chamberlen. The house has a cupboard trapdoor where Dr. Chamberlen kept his medical tools including delivery forceps invented by him or his family. SEE APPENDIX 6 – BIOGRAPHY OF DR. PETER CHAMBERLEN BRAINTREE Is located on the A120 and the A131 about 15 km north of Chelmsford. The town Hall has the Figure of Truth on top – donated by a Mr. Courtauld (who also donated the town a fountain). Upstairs in the Town Hall is a model of the ship “Lyon” which took those who followed the Pilgrim Fathers to America. John Ray was one of the prominent men who held to truth in this place. Inside the Town Hall (upstairs) are a series of pictures – murals showing the plight of the refugees and ultimately their flight to America. Over 300 immigrated to New England from this area between 1620 and 1640. Many of these immigrants had been before the archdeacon’s court for not attending the recognised church. Huguenots from France had settled in the Braintree area bringing with them their spinning and weaving industries. On 28 March 1555, the Protestant William Pygot was martyred here. CASTLE HEDINGHAM Situated some 45 km southeast from Cambridge along the A1307 and turn east at Sible Hedingham. It is also about 15 km northeast of Braintree and 30 km northwest of Colchester. The parish church has strips of human skin under the ironwork. A Viking was caught, skinned alive and the skin nailed to the church door to discourage others. The Saxon Cross has Norman decorations. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page38 The Elizabethan Register is interesting – it has some sarcastic doggerel on the flyleaf about Bloody Mary and in the back, Cromwellian entries recording the babies “born” but not baptised. An interesting misericord is here (lift-up seats in the choir stalls) of a fox carrying away a priest, preceded by a trumpet-playing wolf. KELVEDON Is situated off the A12 just outside Colchester. Is the birthplace of Charles Spurgeon in 1834. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 50.137’. SEE APPENDIX 7 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF CHARLES HADDON SPURGEON COLCHESTER Is situated about 85 km northeast of London on the A12. In Roman times it was called Camulodunum and was the capital of Roman Britain, confirmed by archaeological diggings in 1919/20 by Mortimer Wheeler and Philip Laver and again in 1927 by Rex Hull. Grym’s Dyke is part of the pre-Roman defences remaining. It may be seen by the A12 west of the city and is attributed to King Cole or Coel of nursery rhyme fame. It was virtually the capital of Southeast England when the Romans invaded England in 43 AD. It is the oldest town in Britain. The Romans established their first colony here in 50 AD. Queen Boadicea destroyed it by fire in 60/61 AD in her fight against the Romans, after the Romans had flogged her and raped her daughters. With her husband King Prastagus now dead she rallied the Iceni and other tribes and became a legend in English history. Following the burning of the town, the Romans built a defensive wall 3 km long, 3 m thick and 9 m high. Part of it is still visible. Note the old Balkeme Gate. Note the altar to the Sulevian Mothers near the church of St. Mary’s-at-the-Walls. St. Botolph’s Priory has the ruins of a great Norman church. The Town Hall Is situated in the middle of the town in the main street. Is topped by a bronze statue of Saint Helena – the daughter of “Old King Cole”. The Moot Hall is located in the Town Hall on the first floor. It contains a marble monument to the Colchester Martyrs – 22 people are listed and above the plaque the inscription “No Cross – No Crown”. The Council Chamber has a window to the Huguenots again with the motto “No Cross No Crown”. It also has a window to St Helena and to Claudius. Rose Allin and Other Martyrs Was 20 years of age when brought before a magistrate in Colchester. He followed the callous cruel example of Bishop Bonner of London. He took her hand and burned the back of the hand until the sinews cracked, saying, “Will you not cry? Will you not cry?” She replied, “I thank God that you have more cause to cry than I do”. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page39 Another of the 10 (5 men and 5 women) condemned together at Colchester Elizabeth Folkes said at the stake. “Farewell, all the world! Farewell faith! Farewell hope! Welcome love!” Colchester Castle The Castle is founded on the Roman Temple of Claudius (the Caesar) destroyed by Boadicea. This has the largest and oldest Norman keep standing in England. It was built 1076AD. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 53.427’ E 00 54.179’. The Castle Museum has an outstanding collection of Roman-British artefacts. See the medieval prison. In 1557 several local Protestants were burned in the castle bailey. James Parnell a Quaker died while imprisoned here. LITTLE DUNMOW Is situated about 1 km south of the A120 and some 10 km west of Braintree. In the parish church is the tomb of Robin Hood’s Maid Marion. Little Dunmow has some thatched cottages. GREAT DUNMOW Is situated just off the A120 (on the B184) about 15 km west of Braintree and 10 km east of Bishop’s Shortford. The Dunmow Flitch is awarded every four years to the couple who can prove in open court that they have not quarrelled for a year and a day. Great Dunmow also has some thatched cottages. TRIP 3. COVENTRY, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON, THE COTSWOLDS & OXFORD KIDDERMINSTER Situated some 25 km southwest of Birmingham on the A456. This was a weaving town and in 1641 Richard Baxter perhaps the most famous of the 17th century Puritans was called to assist in preaching in St. Mary’s Church. Baxter became the vicar in the church here in 1747 after the Civil War. His ministry resulted in most of the town being converted and his influence extended in the regions around. He had a special interest in youth and children. Often he spent an hour with each family discussing their spiritual condition. A monument of him was erected to his ministry was erected in 1875. COVENTRY From London take the M1 motorway. Coventry is about 27 km east of Birmingham, and about 160 km northwest of London. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page40 During the Parliamentary Wars in the mid 17th century, Royalists who were taken prisoner were imprisoned here in the 14th century Church of St. John in the Bablake area – “sent to Coventry”. After the return of the monarchy in 1660, Coventry was ordered to knock down its walls. Twelve gates were left – of which two still stand today. Coventry Cathedral Situated in the centre of the city. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 24.490’ W 01 30.417’ both for the new and the burnt-out cathedrals. On 14 November 1940 only 30 buildings in central Coventry were left standing after a bombing raid. The old cathedral-church of St Michael was one of he largest parish churches in England. The Old Cathedral was ruined as a number of incendiary bombs hit the building. A stone mason Jack Forbes surveying the ruins the next day saw two charred roof beams lying in the form of a cross. These charred timbers in the form of a cross were placed on the site of the original altar with the words “Father Forgive” carved behind it. This has become the centrepiece of a ministry of reconciliation. The Tower and he spire – originally built in 1374-1450, were restored in 1977/78. The spire is 90 m or 295 ft high and is a landmark – surviving the air-raid of 1940. Since then a New Cathedral has been built beside the ruins. Note the tapestry behind the High Altar with the four beasts of Ezekiel and Revelation. Also there is an inscription in a side chapel about washing one another’s feet. The Cathedral has a wall of magnificent modern stained glass. There is usually a charge to enter the Cathedral. Lady Godiva Leofric, the Earl of Mercia in 1043 started a Benedictine Monastery here and imposed higher taxes on the people. His wife Lady Godiva protested. He replied that she could ride naked through the streets before he would repeal the harsh taxes. A statue of Lady Godiva on horseback is in Broodgate – behind the shops behind the burnt out church - and the clock in the arch over Hertford Street has figures which reenact the story on the hour including ‘Peeping Tom’. The GPS coordinates of the statue are: N 52 24.488’ W 01.30.632’. STRATFORD-UPON-AVON The town is located approx 50 km northwest of Oxford, and about 14 km southwest of Warwick near the M40; also about 30 km south of Birmingham. It is the most visited place in Britain outside of London. The streets in the town often change names for each block. Shakespeare’s Birthplace is in Henley Street. It was rebuilt in the 19th century in its original Tudor style. The room of his birth (not absolutely certain) has visitor’s autographs including that of Sir Walter Scott. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page41 The GPS co-ordinates are N 52 11.634’ W 01 42. 487’. The Shakespeare Centre is located in Henley Street – just past the birthplace of Shakespeare. The Cage at the corner of Bridge Street and High Street was a 15th century prison. It was later remodelled into housing and now is a shop. Shakespeare’s daughter lived here. Harvard House was built in 1596. Note the hideous carved heads. John Harvard – son of Katherine Rogers, who lived here, immigrated to the USA and left his estate there to a new college to become known as Harvard University. The Town Hall at the corner of Chapel and Sheep Streets has a statue of William Shakespeare at its front. This was a gift from actor David Garrick who organised the first Shakespearian festival in 1769. Also on the front of the building are traces of 18th century graffiti “God Save the King”. Nash’s House is in Chapel Street near the Town Hall. It is a museum, also the site of New Place where Shakespeare died in 1616. The Guild Chapel is on the corner of Chapel Lane and Church Street. A 15th century painting of the Last Judgment is on the Chancel wall. The Guildhall is next door to the Guild Chapel. Above this is the Edward VI Grammar School at which Shakespeare was thought to have been a pupil. Hall’s Croft is in Old Town Street. John Hall was a doctor (one room is fitted out as a dispensary with Jacobean furniture and medical instruments etc) who married Shakespeare’s daughter Susanna. The Holy Trinity Church is situated down the avenue of lime trees from Old Town Street and is the place of Shakespeare’s tomb. It also has his christening record. There may be a charge. The Royal Shakespearian Theatre on the bank of the Avon in Waterside was rebuilt in 1961. A pleasant time can be had on and around the Avon River. If you have more time in the area a visit to Butterfly Park is worthwhile. Anne Hathaway’s Cottage Is in Cottage Lane at Shottery – about 1.5 km west of Stratford. The GPS co-ordinates are:- N 52 11.452’ W 01 43.925’. Here Anne Hathaway lived before marrying William Shakespeare. Some fire damage occurred in 1989. It has a lovely garden and a thick thatched roof making it very picturesque. It has some 16th century furniture. THE COTSWOLDS The Cotswolds are a range of low hills lying northeast from Bath for about 80 km. The centre of the Cotswolds would be northeast and east from Gloucester, southwest from Stratford-on-Avon and northwest from Oxford. Some of the towns are: - Stow-on-the-Wold (at the intersection of A429 and A436); Bourton-on-the-Water with a model village some 5 km southwest of Stow-on-theWold and east of A429; Broadway on the A44 and Winchcombe on the B4692 some 10 km northeast of Cheltenham. The villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter some 5 km southwest from Stow-onthe-Wold are highlights of the area. Circencester situated on the A429 and A419 is the capital of the Cotswolds. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page42 At Northleach on the A40 and B429 is the World of Mechanical Music Museum. Limestone from the Cotswolds was used in the building of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. The Cotswolds are considered a ‘must see’ to get the feel of rural Britain. BURFORD Is situated in the northern Cotswolds in Oxfordshire on the A40 some 26 km west of Oxford and about 12 km west of Witney. Here Richard Rainoldes had been a baliff in the town and with two other bailiffs had welcomed Queen Elizabeth I to the town. On his death he was buried in the St John the Baptist church in the town. There his tombstone has a message to his wife:- “I go to slepe before you, and wee shal wake together” indicating his faith in the resurrection when all the righteous rise together. OXFORD Is situated about 80 km northwest of London. Use the M40. Just north of the city is Blenheim Palace, home of the Dukes of Marlborough and birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. He is buried at Bladon. At Oxford, see the University Colleges – they are scattered all through the town. The Bodlein Library houses every book printed in Britain; and some pages from the Codex Prophyrius, which came from the monastery on Patmos. Martyrdom Site Ridley and Latimer were burned at the stake in Broad Street opposite Balliol College on 16 October 1555. The place is marked by a cross in the middle of the road. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 45.255’ W 01 15.467’. There is a plaque or inscription on the wall of Balliol College giving details of the martyrdom. In 1837 workmen making the street found a quantity of charred wood three feet below the surface of the road, outside the door to the Master’s house of Balliol where historical records locate this site. Latimer said to Ridley: “Be of good comfort, Master Ridley, and play the man; we shall this day light a candle, by God’s grace, in England, as I trust shall never be put out.” Cranmer was martyred here by burning on 21 March 1556. Martyrs’ Memorial The memorial is nearby – just around the corner from Broad Street in St. Giles Street at the corner of Beaumont Street. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 45.306’ W 01 15.549’. The tall ornate, Victorian spire commemorating the event is in the wide median strip as St. Giles Street divides. Ashmolean Museum Is situated in Giles Street just opposite the Martyr’s Memorial. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page43 It is perhaps the best museum outside of London. It was fist a collection of crafts, stuffed animals and artefacts of two persons – John Tradescant (both father and son). Elias Ashmole bought it, added to it, and gave it to the University. It has many antiquities from Mesopotamia and other Middle Eastern countries, including a cylinder from Babylon (with translation) describing Nebuchadnezzar’s boast of the beauty of Babylon he had built. It has many paintings by masters including Raphael, Rembrandt, Picasso, etc. Here is also the Alfred Jewel dating to the 10th century. It is open Tuesdays – Sundays. Entrance is free. Phone first. No photography. St. Mary the Virgin Church It is situated on High Street – it was the place of the trial of the three bishops and where they were condemned for heresy and where their great statement was made. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 45.156’ W 01 15.236’. Part of the pillars were cut away to provide footings for the platform on which they stood. Up high on the outside is a statue of Thomas Cranmer. John Wesley preached here during his time in Oxford. Christ Church Situated in St. Aldates Street – down the hill and a continuation of Cornmarket Street. Is where Cranmer was actually degraded and condemned to death. Bocardo Prison Was located between the Tower of St. Michael and Broad Street Is where Cranmer, Latimer and Ridley were all kept awaiting and during their trials. The Tower of St. Michael at the North Gate The tower is located at the corner of Cornmarket and Ship Streets – just around the corner from Broad Street. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 45.230’ W 01 15.514’. It is the oldest building in Oxford dating to around 1020. There is a good view from the top. On the way up is the door from Cranmer’s cell in the Bocardo Prison. During the Civil War soldiers occupied the tower and church and a large sum was spent “cleansing and perfewming it after the soldiers had lodged there a week”. John Wesley preached from the pulpit in this church in 1726. Keeble Cottage Is located on Poures Road. It has the original of Holman Hunt’s “Light of the World” painting. A second identical picture was painted by memory by Hunt because of the charge being made here – and the second hangs in St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Lincoln College Is located on Turl Street. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page44 The GPS co-ordinates are N 51 45.184’ W 01 15.344’. It is one of the best-preserved colleges from medieval times being founded in 1427. John Wesley was a student here and his rooms – now a chapel – may be visited. Look to the front quadrangle for his prayer room and library. St. Giles Church Is situated between Woodstock Road and Bonbury Road just part the dividing of St. Giles Street. Wilberforce/Huxley Debate Near the University Museum up on the upper west arcade, is a plaque upstairs that indicates the room where the debate on Creation v Evolution between Wilberforce and Huxley took place in 1860. Balliol College Is situated in Broad Street – in front of which is the Martyrdom site. A burnt door from the time of the burning of Cranmer in 1556 is at the back of the College. Bridge of Sighs A copy of the famous bridge of Venice is here. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 45.268’ W 01 15.232’. It joins the Old and New buildings of Hertford College – just off Cattle Street (Off Broad Street). Bookshop Basil Blackwell’s BookStore of Broad Street is well known and a very large store selling both new and second hand books. Phone (0865) 79 2792 SEE APPENDIX 8 – BIOGRAPHY OF NICHOLAS RIDLEY SEE APPENDIX 9 – BIOGRAPHY OF HUGH LATIMER SEE APPENDIX 10 – BIOGRAPHY OF THOMAS CRANMER THAME Is situated about 15 km east of Oxford. Thame has in its parish church a medieval wall painting of Mary at the Cross. Also a memorial to Hampton, the parliamentarian general killed during the Civil War. Hampton House is also of interest. AMERSHAM Is situated about 25 km southeast of Thame and 12 km west of Watford. Amersham has a martyr’s memorial halfway up a steep hill from the main road to the station. Here in 1506 in a Close called Stoneyprat, a pious man named William Tilfrey was burnt alive. His married daughter Joan Clarke was made to light the faggots. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page45 A public footpath leads between the houses to a field. Here in a saucer-shaped depression is the field where Lollards and Protestants were burnt at the stake. TRIP 4. WINDSOR AND NEWBOLD COLLEGE WINDSOR From London take the M4 motorway to Exit 6 – about 35 km. The Crooked House is worth a picture – down around the corner from the exit from Windsor Castle. Note the Guildhall - next door to the Crooked House on High Street - with the longest unsupported span – designed by Sir Christopher Wren. The City Fathers insisted on pillars as well, so he built them with an inch gap between the pillars and the span. Note also the King George Memorial – where Robert Testwood, Henry Filmer and Anthony Pearson were burnt at the stake in 1543 in the presence of the Vicar of Bray. Windsor Castle Open April – October 1000 – 1700 hrs daily. November – March 1000 – 1600 hrs. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 28.974’ W 00 36.409’. It is the oldest continuously inhabited royal residence in Britain. Originally built by William the Conqueror in 1070. It will take several hours to tour it properly, but is very worthwhile. The Round Tower is impressive. There are paintings of many people including Charles I. Various monarchs are buried here. The name of Windsor was chosen as his family name in 1917 by George V. St. George’s Chapel has very interesting exhibits directly opposite the exit gate. Ten monarchs are buried here. Guards with their busbys are often found across from the exit gate. Photos may be taken. ETON Is just across the footbridge spanning the River Thames at Windsor. The town has the famous “public school” (which is really a private school). Parts of the school are open to the public. Students are dressed in frock coats and striped trousers. Here John le Carre the author taught for some time. RUNNYMEDE Located just off the M25 (Exit 13) thence towards Egham 1 km. Then take the A308 towards Windsor. It is situated about 1.5 km from Old Windsor Castle. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page46 King John was forced to sign the Magna Carta on 15 June 1215 by his lords, to control the power of the king. (He had on 15 May 1213 signed over the whole of his realm of England into the hands of Pope Innocent III). A memorial to J.F. Kennedy is here. BRACKNELL One of the many new dormitory towns built to house commuters who work in London. ASCOT It is the home of the famous racecourse at High Street Ascot – just east from Bracknell on the A329. BINFIELD Situated just to the northwest of Bracknell on the B3034 (Use the B3018). St. Marks Church at the end of the village has a Breeches Bible. Newbold College Is situated in St. Mark’s Road, Binfield. Take the Wokingham Road out of Bracknell and turn right to Binfield just after a pub called “The Leg of Mutton”. The College is on the right about a mile down the road. The phone number for the College is (01344) 487487. MARLOW Is situated on the Thames River only 4 km south of the M40 coming from Oxford to London. Take Exit 4. The “Mayflower” was finally brought here after the “Pilgrim Fathers” sailed in it and it was broken up here. BEACONSFIELD Is situated on the A40 (Take Exit 2 on the M40) approx 20 km northeast of Newbold. Then west through Beaconsfield village and on for about 1.5 km or so. From Beaconsfield the stone marker is on the right had side of the road just before the houses of the next village Woodburn Moor. It is about 1 m high with an inscription going around the marker. The GPS co-ordinates are N 51 35.961’ W 00 39.786’. The inscription notes the custom of tithing. The rector, a John Gould, had quarrelled with the local farmers about the payment of tithes. The farmers had taken John Gould to court for several times and a Lord Ellenborough gave judgment in favour of the farmers, who felt they had had a great victory. The terms of the settlement are recorded as: “3rd May 1827. Boundary stone of the Manor and Parish of Beaconsfield. The custom of tithing corn in this Parish is (and has been so immemorially) by the TENTH COCK and the ELEVENTH SHOCK”. Note the farmers only had to pay 1/11 when dealing with Shocks of corn. The farm is now gone, but the stone remains to tell the world of the dispute and of tithing. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page47 JORDANS Is situated about 15 km from Marlow on the north side of the M40. Take Exit 2 to the north through Beaconsfield on the A355. Jordans is east of the A305. The timbers of the “Mayflower” were used to build a barn on Russell’s Farm, and is called the “Mayflower Barn”. This belongs to Quakers and note the Friends Cemetery here. William Penn is buried here. CHALFORD ST. GILES It is situated just 3 km northeast of Jordans. John Milton’s house is now the Museum of Milton. STOKE POGES Is located about 5 km south of the M40 and the same north of Slough (by the M4) – approx 25 km northeast of Newbold. Here is the Churchyard (and Church) where Thomas Gray wrote the great philosophical poem “An Elergy Written in a Country Churchyard”. SEE APPENDIX 11 POEM “ELERGY WRITTEN IN A COUNTRY CHURCHYARD” HENLEY-ON-THAMES Is situated on the A423 and A4155 some 12 km north-northeast of Reading. There are over 300 buildings listed as having special architectural or historical interest. It is the site of the annual rowing regatta. TRIP 5. BEDFORD, ELSTOW AND CAMBRIDGE ELSTOW Is located 3.5 km south of Bedford. This is the birthplace of John Bunyan. Elstow was noted for lace making in the time of John Bunyan. Bunyan’s Mead Cottages Are a row of Tudor cottages over the road and opposite the Elstow Moot Hall. They were renovated in the 1970’s to their original 17th century appearances. The archway leading from the main street to the cottages at the rear is known as "The Jetty" and was the entrance to an inn for coaches called "The White Lion". Site of Bunyan’s Cottage Is located on the first northern LH corner towards Bedford going from the Moot Hall and Abbey Road. It is to the right of the vehicle access to St. Helena’s Restaurant. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page48 A plaque notes the fact that John Bunyan lived here from 1649 to 1655. The Elstow Moot Hall Is to the right in the field as you walk to the Abbey Church. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 06.961’ E 00 28.130’. It is open Tues - Thurs 1400 -1600 hrs from Easter to October. Ring (01234) 266889 for details or for group bookings. It was built in 1490. It is now a museum with a display of 17th century England, Bunyan’s books etc. The projecting upper story was typical of the architecture of that time. It was completely restored in 1951. Note the original pulpit with its inscription telling of Bunyan’s conversion following a sermon on Sabbath keeping by Christopher Hall the Parish Priest who preached Puritan messages. Bunyan’s followers used it as a meeting place. The Village Green John Bunyan was converted as a young man while playing a game of tipcat (a form of Rounders), finding the game frivolous when eternal issues were more important. The green was the Elstow Green around the Moot Hall and down towards the church. A stump is all that remains of the old market cross. The Abbey Church of St. Mary and St. Helena Is situated down the road beside the Moot Hall on the south side of the green. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 06. 893’ E 00 28.178’. Judith the niece of William the Conqueror founded the Benedictine Abbey here about 1078. The Abbey was dissolved in 1539 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries. The church is all that remains of the Abbey, which was downsized to a village church in 1580. The church was extensively restored in the 1880’s. Bunyan was baptised here as an infant 30 November 1628. Note the baptismal font. Bunyan in his early life would attend church services here twice on a Sunday. He was married here in 1649 to Mary - aged 21 years. The church has a pillar featuring Bunyan’s military service. The Church also has stained glass windows depicting Pilgrim’s Progress and the Holy War. Outside to the left of the entrance door at the west end of the building is an old oak door. It is thought to have inspired Bunyan’s Wicket Gate in "Pilgrim’s Progress”. The Bell Tower The bell tower or belfry is separate from the church. It has six bells. John Bunyan was the bell ringer here for some time, ringing the fifth bell which is still called the" Bunyan Bell". Near the base of the west wall of the tower is found a Cross of Sanctuary. Beyond this point safety was assured in medieval times for those fleeing from the law. They Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page49 were then considered under church law. SEE APPENDIX 12 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN BUNYAN HARROWDEN John Bunyan was born in a house between Harrowden and Elstow. It was demolished early in the 19th century. Leaving Elstow take the road towards Bedford for .5 km then right on the A5134 which becomes the A600. Turn right with it over the A421. About .5 km past the A421 turn right into Harrowden. At the end of the road is a farm on the left and a bridleway to the right towards Bedford. Do not park in gateways. Walk along the bridleway over the stream and as you turn left, the site where the Bunyan house stood is ahead. A monument marks the place. A beam from the house and some large cottage keys from here are in the Bunyan Museum, Bedford. BEDFORD It is about 120 km north of London - west of the A1 and east of the M1. Is situated on the A6 some 25 km north of Luton - or reached by the A421 after leaving the M1 at Exit 13. Note the Bridge over the River Ouse in the middle of the town. This is a main feature of the town. The present bridge dates to 1835 with widening done in the 1930’s. The Old Town Gaol was originally part of the structure of the bridge here. There is a plaque at the northern end of the bridge mentioning the gaol - where Bunyan served some time. County Gaol Going up High Street from the bridge, halfway along the street on the left-hand side there is a plaque in the footpath about Silver Street. The GPS coordinates are: N 52 08.228’ E 00 28.003’. This notes the position of the County Gaol where Bunyan also would have been imprisoned for most of his time in prison. Statue of John Bunyan At the top of High Street on the right-hand side is a 9 ft (2.7 m) high statue of John Bunyan. GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 08.328’ E 00 28.003’. It weighs 3 tons and is made of melted down guns. It was presented by the Duke of Bedford in 1876. Around it are bronze panels illustrating scenes from "Pilgrim’s Progress". The Bunyan Meeting-House (Church) This is in Mill Street - one block from the River Ouse on the northern side and one block east of High Street. It is open 1000 - 1400 hrs Wed and Sat. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 08.233’ E 00 27.838’. The church has superb bronze doors with scenes from "Pilgrim’s Progress", Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page50 modelled after the concept of the doors of the Baptistery in Florence. The doors were donated by the Duke of Bedford in 1876. There are also stained glass windows with scenes from his time in prison. This church has the famous "Bunyan’s Window". A postcard of this was sent to Terry Waite whilst he was held captive in Lebanon. The Bunyan Museum Is just around the corner towards the river from the Bunyan Meeting House. The GPS coordinates are: N 52 08.203’ E 00 27.798’. It has an excellent display of items connected with Bunyan’s life. His pulpit and the anvil on which he tinkered are here. Also the bowl in which his blind daughter brought him food while in prison. An interesting item is an iron violin he made while in gaol. There is also a flute he made from the leg of a chair. There are some excellent displays featuring John Bunyan, which were added when the museum was updated a few years ago. Bunyan’s House Was situated at 17 St. Cuthbert’s Street. The GPS co-ordinates are N 52 08.280’ E 00 27.790’. It is just around the corner from the Meeting House and on the RH side of the street going up the hill. This is the site of the house where Bunyan lived when he moved from Elstow. A plaque has been placed on the present building, noting this fact. Bridge over River Ouse This bridge is right beside the Hotel Bedford Swan. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 08.087’ E 00 27.963’. The Town gaol was originally located on the bridge (before the present bridge). A plaque is on the end of the bridge noting this (Bedford Swan end of bridge). Baptism Site On the southern side of the River Ouse is the site where Bunyan was baptised by immersion in the 1650’s. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 08.026’ E 00 27.718’. It is between Duckmill Lane Carpark and the Weir Bridge - in the backwater near the Weir and bridge. The House of the Interpreter" In "Pilgrim’s Progress" Christian is directed to the way of life by the Interpreter. In real life the Interpreter was his leader and friend and pastor John Gifford. The building is St. John’s Rectory - now part of St. John’s Ambulance - south over the bridge from the River Ouse a hundred metres or so on the left-hand side of the road. The centre has a room relating to the times of Bunyan. The Church of St. John is where dissenters met from 1650. GPS co-ordinates are N 52 07.883’ E 00 27.910’. In the churchyard is the grave of John Gifford - the friend, mentor and pastor of Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page51 John Bunyan. The Bedford Swan Hotel Is situated beside the River Ouse next to the bridge. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 52 08.097’ E 00 27.938’. This hotel has the steps from the House Beautiful from" Pilgrim’s Progress". It was the inn used by the judges who would visit for trials and would have stayed here when Bunyan was sentenced to prison. Here Bunyan’s wife made an impassioned appeal to the judges for his release and return home. The Chapel of Herne – Courts for Assizes It was situated across High Street from the Swan Hotel. Take the road opposite and the site was at the corner of the road on the LH side. Its GPS co-ordinates are N 52 08.113’ E 00 28.049’. The Chapel of Herne dated from medieval times. The Town Hall now stands on the site. This was where John Bunyan was arraigned at the Quarter Sessions. Nearby the statue at the southeast corner of St. Paul’s Square is of John Howard, the prison reformer whose house stands next to the Bunyan Museum. SEE APPENDIX 12 BIOGRAPHY: JOHN BUNYAN SEE APPENDIX 13 BIOGRAPHY: JOHN GIFFORD AMPTHILL Is situated about 6 km south of Elstow (8 km south of Bedford). It has the ruins of Houghton House. This is thought to have been the "House Beautiful" mentioned in "Pilgrim’s Progress". The stairs from this once stately house are now in the Bedford Swan Hotel, Bedford. Originally it was a Jacobean Hunting Lodge built in 1615. Bunyan may have visited here as a tinker mending the pots and pans. Looking south on a clear day, the Chiltern Hills north of Luton are visible. This view may have been the one used by Bunyan in the "Pilgrim’s Progress" as The Delectable Mountains. From Ampthill take the B530 north to the top of the hill of Ampthill. Then take the road to the right until you follow the brown signs to Houghton House. There is a .75 km walk from the car park. HUNTINGDON It is situated some 30 km northwest of Cambridge by the Roman Road A604. Here is the school Oliver Cromwell attended - now a Museum. Nearby is an interesting church. Perhaps the best male choral group in England, the Kings Choir, sings here for Evensong and also Christmas night. It is well worth a phone call and visit. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page52 OLNEY It is situated some 10 km north of Newport Pagnell on the A509. From Bedford take the A428 then turn left on the A509 for some 3.5 km. The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul dates from the 14th century. Its GPS coordinates are: N 52 09.003’ E 00 42.074’. It was here that John Newton (the former slave-trader) became the curate from 1764 to 1779. With his friend William Cowper they published the Olney Hymns in 1779 including "Amazing Grace" and "God Moves in a Mysterious Way". John Newton is buried in the churchyard. He was first buried in St. Mary Woolnoth Church in London where he was the rector from 1780 until his death in 1807. Note the epitaph written by John Newton himself. SEE APPENDIX 2 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN NEWTON CAMBRIDGE Is situated about 90 km north of London. Take the M11. It is situated on the River Cam (hence Cam-bridge = Bridge over the Cam). In earlier times Cambridge was accessible by sea and a castle was built and later rebuilt in stone by Edward I. King John gave the charter to hold the Stourbridge Fair which became one of the greatest trade fairs in Europe. John Bunyan later used the Stourbridge Fair as an inspiration for Vanity Fair of the book “Pilgrim’s Progress”. Oliver Cromwell was the Member for Parliament for Cambridge. The University has been here for 700 years, beginning when some masters and students came here from Oxford in 1209 AD. Endeavouring to provide better accommodation for students the Bishop of Ely m,ade available some rooms in the Augustinian Monastery here. This was the beginning of St John’s College. The Bishop of Ely founded in 1824 founded Peterhouse College. The Colleges are closer together than at Oxford. The best view is along "The Backs" (a walk along Queen’s Road). Christianity has always been a part of Cambridge and the University. For a long time daily prayers were part of the regular activities, and students wore clerical gowns – from which academic gowns have come. Cambridge became a centre for the Reformation. Isaac Newton the mathematician and astronomer wrote his views on the prophecies Daniel and Revelation and while here, specifically focussed on what he believed to be soon fulfilled - the 2300-year prophecy of Daniel 9. Punts may be rented from Magdalene (pronounced Maudlin) Bridge. See the Mathematical Bridge built without the use of a nail. The Round Church may have belonged to the Templars or built just before the first Crusade. The University Library possesses the Nash Papyrus (contains the Ten Commandments). Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page53 Lady Margaret Beaufort who was Henry VI’s niece and also the mother of Henry VII founded Christ’s College in 1505 and also St John’s College in 1511. She also funded the stay of Erasmus at Cambridge – at Queen’s College - and this is where in 1516 he completed the Greek New Testament which gave an impetus to the budding thoughts that would become the Reformation. Two Colleges here – Emmanuel and Sidney Sussex were founded explicitly to train Puritan preachers. Over 30 from Cambridge University became emigrants to North America including John Harvard who founded the university that bears his name. Churches of Cambridge The Church of St. Mary the Great (or Great St. Mary’s) Is the University church of Cambridge. The first church on this site dates to 1205 AD, and it was destroyed by fire 1290 AD. The fire was attributed to the Jewish population and the synagogue was closed. This building dates to around 1350 AD and the ownership rests with Trinity College. Until 1730 it was used for University meetings and debates until the Senate House was built. Erasmus preached here during his time in Cambridge. Martin Bucer who influenced Cranmer’s Book of Common Prayer is buried here. During the reign of Mary his corpse was burnt in the marketplace, but in Elizabeth’s time the dust of the marketplace was collected and placed again in the church where a brass plaque in the south chancel marks the spot. Here by its west door in 1521, the works of Martin Luther were publicly burnt. Dr Thomas Firman of Queen’s College succeeded in concealing a number of Luther’s books so the study of them could continue. The Church of St Edward King & Martyr Is situated on Peas Hill opposite the Guildhall and one small street from King’s Parade. A church must have existed here by 1001 AD for that was when he was designated a martyr. The present church dates from around 1400 AD. The pulpit was used by Thomas Cranmer and he was known as a preacher of great power. The pulpit for a time was removed and bought by the Provost of King’s College. It has been returned and rented for 1/- per annum. The church has links with two colleges – Trinity Hall and Clare Hall of College. Henry VI wanted to have more land for King’s College he had just established and the Church of St. John would have to go. Henry sold the patronage of both churches to Trinity Hall which meant that the College hired and fired the minister and not he bishop. Note the two Chapels – Clare Chapel and Trinity Hall Chapel. The Font was originally placed by the North door – so that on baptism of an infant the devil could escape through the north door (north being associated with a place of darkness). Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page54 The plaques to Edward Lively of Trinity and Richard Thompson of Clare are buried here – they were among the 47 who were responsible for the King James Bible. This has been called the “Birthplace of the English Reformation”, or the “Nursery of the English Reformation”. It was used by Thomas Bilney, Robert Barnes, Nicholas Ridley and others after they had met for some time in the White Horse Inn. Erasmus had shortly before produced a New Testament and this group used the New Testament of Erasmus to understand Scripture. Then it was used to compare it with the writings of Martin Luther. Bilney said he ‘heard speak of Jesus for the first time, when the New Testament was set forth by Erasmus. Thus it has been said, “Erasmus laid the egg which Luther hatched”. At Christmas Midnight Mass in 1525, Robert Barnes peached the sermon and attacked the Catholic Church for its clerical worldliness. He was the prior of the Augustinian Friary. Hugh Latimer was also a preacher in the church. Using a pack of cards to contrast a life in Jesus with falsities etc. It was replied to the following week by the Prior of the Dominican House – but Latimer’s reply silenced his opponent completely. Bilney was also a preacher in this church. These English reformers introduced the practice of preaching in English. Note the commemorative windows to Latimer and Bilney. St Edward’s has a copy of the ‘chained’ Bible of 1548. SEE APPENDIX 14 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF THOMAS BILNEY SEE APPENDIX 15 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF ROBERT BARNES The Round Church Built in 1130 AD although a church had existed there previously Thus The Round Church with its Norman influences pre-dated the University. Holy Trinity Church It was Pastor Charles Simeon of Holy Trinity who influenced Henry Martin, Cambridge’s honour student in mathematics to go to India as a missionary. St Andrew the Great Church William Perkins a great Puritan preacher was appointed the lecturer or preacher a this church in 1584 and continued until his marriage in 1595. Cambridge Colleges King’s College It has a splendid chapel with incredible fan vaulting. Henry VI founded King’s College in 1441 and the building of King’s College Chapel begun (nearly a quarter of the town at that time was razed for the project). See Reuben’s "Adoration of the Magi" over the main altar. If you appreciate singing, then the King’s College choir is a must to hear. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page55 Trinity Hall Trinity Hall is located on Trinity Lane behind the Senate House. Thomas Bilney was a student here early in the 16th century. While here he was the one who shared his testimony or spiritual journey resulting in Hugh Latimer’s conversion. He became a Fellow of Trinity Hall in 1520. Trinity College Isaac Newton came as a student here at 19 years of age., graduating in 1661. Newton was made a Fellow of Trinity College in 1667. Francis Bacon was also a student here. St. John’s College William Wilberforce the one who helped end slavery was a student here. Clare Hall (or College) Hugh Latimer at age 14 or 15 came to Clare Hall. He obtained his BA and MA here and became one of the “Twelve Preachers” appointed by the University. Christ’s College Charles Darwin and William Paley were students here and later sought to explain the universe in mechanical terms. There is a Darwin Memorial Garden here. William Perkins who became the great Puritan preacher began as a student here in 1577 and later was elected a Fellow here in 1584. Jesus College The College was founded on the site of a Benedictine Nunnery in 1496, by John Alcock the Bishop of Ely. The full name of the College is “The College of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Saint John the Evangelist and he glorious Virgin Saint Radegund, near Cambridge” The College gets its name from the Jesus Chapel - part of the old nunnery and is the oldest building in Cambridge. Thomas Cranmer was a Fellow of Jesus College. Other students included Samuel Coleridge the English poet and Robert Malthus the population theorist. Sidney Sussex College Oliver Cromwell was a student at this college. While Cromwell’s body is buried near Tyburn in London, his head was a collector’s item after his death and was bequeathed to Sidney Sussex College and is buried near Sidney Sussex Chapel. Note the plaque to this effect there. Pembroke College Nicholas Ridley was a Fellow of Pembroke College. A picture of him hangs in the chapel of the College. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page56 White Horse Inn (or Tavern) This was the meeting place where Robert Barnes, Thomas Bilney, and Hugh Latimer, Nicholas Ridley, Stephen Gardiner, Miles Coverdale, Matthew Parker and others would meet regularly to investigate Scripture and in particular the New Testament of Erasmus and later the writings of Luther. The group was sometimes referred to as “Little Germany” as they studiously student Luther’s works. In 1521 William Tyndale was a member of the White Horse Inn Group while he was in Cambridge before going overseas to Europe The Inn has long since been demolished, but it stood in the area now occupied by a portion of King’s College. A Blue Plaque on the King’s College Chetwynd Court commemorates the Tavern’s site. The group later moved their meeting place to the Church of St. Edward the Martyr. THAXTED Turn off the M11 motorway - Exit 9 to Saffron Walden and take the back road B184 to Thaxted. Thaxted is said to be one of the prettiest villages in England. Return to the motorway at Bishops Stortford - Exit 8. TRIP 6. EAST ENGLAND DEDHAM It is situated about 10 km northeast of Colchester (just a little east of the A12 on B1029). This is ‘Constable Country’. Nearby is Flatford Mill (3 km to the northeast) which is a typical example in summer. “The Constable Walk” follows the River Stour from Dedham to Flatford Mill (owned by Constable’s father) – a distance of about 2.5 km. Here “Roaring Rogers” was a Puritan preacher known for his dramatic portrayals of the damned in agony. His tomb is on the wall of the parish church. Also here is the tomb of Judith Eyre, who died from swallowing a pin around 1747/8. The uncertainty is because of the change of the calendar when ten days were lost. EAST BERGHOLT Is situated some 4 km northeast of Dedham on the B1070. The bells of the parish church are in a wooden case on the ground. The church tower is unfinished. Cardinal Wolsey was paying for the church when the consecrated host was “buried” on Good Friday, to be “resurrected” on Easter Sunday. THETFORD Situated about 50 km north of Colchester and 40 km northeast of Cambridge on the A11. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page57 A few km north of Thetford are the Grimes Graves. Significant Stone Age finds have been made in these flint mines. To explore, old clothes and a torch are necessary. HADLEIGH Is situated some 13 km west of Ipswich just off the A1071. It was one of the first places to accept the Protestant religion, with many people memorising portions of Scripture, even whole epistles. Dr. Roland Taylor’s Martyrdom. Aldham Common is about 1.5 km from the town centre. Here Dr. Taylor, a doctor of civil and common law, a scholar and preacher and chaplain to Archbishop Cranmer, was burnt at the stake 4 February 1555. He wrote his own epitaph in a book he gave his son. “Rowland Taylor departing hence in sure hope, without all doubting of eternal salvation, I thank God and my heavenly Father, through Jesus Christ my certain Saviour. Amen. The fifth of February 1555. BURY ST. EDMUNDS Is situated about 45 km east-northeast of Cambridge and 50 km north of Colchester. King Edmund was crowned here 25 December 855. When the Danes invaded and he refused to deny the Christian faith, though offered life to do so, he was tied to a tree and shot to death with arrows, 870 AD. Another account says he was beheaded. The barons met here on 20 November 1215 and agreed to compel King John to grant them and the nation certain liberation. This led to the signing of the Magna Carta. A Martyr’s Memorial commemorates the burning of James Abbas on 2 August 1555. Roger Bernard, Adam Forster and Robert Lawson were burnt in the same fire. Thomas Spardance, a servant of the Queen was burnt November 1557 and in August 1558 there were three others burnt here. Three others again – John and Henry David and Philip Humfrey were burnt just 6 days before Elizabeth became Queen. IPSWICH Is located some 30 km northeast of Colchester. Take the A12. In Christchurch Park is the Ipswich Martyr’s Memorial which was built in 1903 to commemorate martyrs of the 16th century. Robert Samuel A minister of the Gospel from East Bergolt was burnt 31 August 1555 in front of the Moot Hall (now Town Hall) and the Shambles (now the Post Office). He had been tortured by Dr. Hopton, the Bishop of Norwich. He had been chained to a wall on tiptoe for two days with only 2 or 3 mouthfuls of bread a day. He said, “My mind is quieted from all worldly adversities, my conscience pacified from sins, my soul is full and hath enough. All things are but loss for the excellent knowledge of Christ Jesus, my Lord and Saviour. Yea, I dwell in Him and He in me. Thus I am fully persuaded, and on this Rock have I builded, by God’s grace, my Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page58 dwelling and resting-place, for body and soul, life and death. And thus I commit my cause unto Christ, the righteous and just Judge”. Agnes Patten and Ivan Trunchfield had given some assistance to Robert Samuel and they were captured and burnt at the stake 19 February 1556. Alice Driver tried to hide Alexander Gooch at Gundisburgh. They were imprisoned in Melton Jail, tried at the Assizes at Bury St. Edmunds. Because Alice likened Queen Mary to Jezebel, the judge ordered her ears cut off. On 4 November 1558, both were burnt at the stake. Richard Yeoman a curate for Dr. Rowland Taylor was burnt here in 1558. NEEDHAM It is situated in the county of Norfolk on the A 143 about 10 km east of the junction with the A140 and about 12 km east of Diss or about 40 km east of Thetford. It is also about 3 km south west of Harleston. Here a Mr Alec Garrad has built a 20 ft by 12 ft model of Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem. He has spent over 33,000 hours of work on the project. To view the temple please make an appointment with Mr Garrad on (01379) 855361. NORWICH Situated about 50 km northeast of Thetford on the A11. The Benedictine Priory was the home of Thomas Monmouth as William of Norwich. He promoted anti-Semitism, 1172 AD. In the Cathedral is the Jesus Chapel. Here also is a shrine to William of Norwich, a martyred youth killed by Jews in an anti-Christian ceremony, The only surviving Saxon bishop’s throne is behind the altar. In the cathedral cloisters, a series of roof bosses depict many scenes from the Book of Revelation. The Guildhall is in the underground dungeon of the Council Chamber. Thomas Bilney was imprisoned here before being burnt at the stake in Lollard’s Pit, near Bishop Bridge in 1531. Tombland Alley was a mass burial ground during the plague. Gurney Court was the home of Elizabeth Fry the prison reformer. LITTLE WALSINGHAM Is situated about 45 km northwest of Norwich, and 10 km north of Fakenham. It was one of the foremost pilgrimage centres of Britain. The home of Jesus was supposedly brought here by angels – or a copy built by angel-revealed blueprints. It is still a Catholic centre with regular pilgrimages. TYDD ST. GILES It is situated about 25 km west of King’s Lynn and about 8 km south of Long Sutton, and 8 km north of Wisbech. Take the A1101north from Wisbech and then turn on the B1165 through Newton. There is where Nicholas Breakspear was curate. He became Pope Adrian IV. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page59 PETERBOROUGH Is just east of the A1 – east from Exit 17 on the A15. Also about 35 km southwest of Wisbech. The Cathedral of St. Peter has given the town its name. Here is the tomb of Katherine of Aragon – the first wife of Henry VIII. Mary Queen of Scots was buried here for some time in 1587 but her body was transferred to Westminster Abbey in 1612. Here is the Hand of King Oswald which Cuthbert predicted would never perish. There is also a Monk’s Stone – Hededa Stone – from the 8th century. The Longthorpe Tower has rare medieval frescoes on religious and didactic themes in the upper chamber. FOTHERINGHAY It is situated about 15 km directly southwest of Peterborough. Take the A605 until just past Warnington and take the un-numbered road west and north for about 3 km. The Church and Castle are beside the Willow Brook that flows into the River Nene. Here Mary Queen of Scots was beheaded on the orders of Elizabeth 8 February 1587. She was buried in Peterborough Cathedral. Her son James I had her remains transferred to Westminster Abbey in 1612. GRANTHAM Is situated some 60 km northwest of Peterborough and some 45 km east of Nottingham. Stanborough Press is near Grantham on the Alma Park Estate. The parish church in Grantham has a chained library of 83 books presented to the church by the rector in 1598. SLEAFORD Is situated about 30 km southeast of Lincoln. It also has chained books on display in the parish church. The Black Bull Inn has a carving from 1689 showing bull baiting. BOSTON Is situated some 25 km east of Sleaford (by way of the A17 and the A1121). Boston rivalled London in the 13th century as England’s leading port. It’s name (from Botolph’s town) honours St. Botolph, a Saxon monk. Cells in the Guildhall were used to imprison leaders of the Separatists (who eventually were known as the Pilgrim Fathers). They would have come up from the cells through the trapdoor in the floor to the courtroom above. They tried to flee England for Holland in 1607, but were captured – betrayed by their ship’s captain. There is a memorial east of the town on the northern bank of the River where the ship would have been moored and where these people may have boarded the ship. A tablet in the church tower lists five British Bostonians who became governors of Massachusetts. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page60 John Cotton, who also came from Boston, migrated to the New World and there became a famous preacher. SEE APPENDIX 3. SUMMARY OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS TRIP 7. SOUTH-EAST FROM LONDON DOWNE Situated some 20 km south-southeast of Greenwich and 10 km southeast from Croydon. Open Wed – Sun 1000 hrs – 1800 hrs 30 Mar – 30 Sep and 1000 hrs – 1700 hrs in winter. Bookings please arrange at least a day prior with English Heritage Phone +44 (0870) 603145. There is a charge for entry. Here at Down House, Charles Darwin settled with his wife and first child (of 10) in 1842, six years after his journey in the “Beagle”. Here he developed his theory of evolution by natural selection. The house has been restored to its 1870 appearance. See his billiard table (he played daily), his study and the garden path or sand path – his ‘thinking path’ where he clarified his thoughts at least three times daily. See his microscope and collection of beetles and the armchair in which he sat as he wrote “On the Origin of Species etc”. No photographs are permitted inside the house. A book on Charles Darwin and Downe is available for sale. DARTFORD Situated about 32 km southeast of London. The Wat Tyler House – where Wat Tyler killed the Tax Collector and started the Peasant’s Revolt in 1381 – is just north of the museum. The Peasant’s Revolt was used as an excuse to suppress the Lollards. The Museum has a cast of the Swanscome Skull, In the Parish Church see the Spillman Tomb. He was a paper maker and his wife’s coats of arms included a jester’s cap – the origin of ‘foolscap’. The Martyr’s Memorial is on the left near the top of the hill going out of Dartford towards Gravesend. DARENTH Is situated about 5 km southeast of Dartford. On the north of the parish church one panel of the font shows a baby being baptised by total immersion. GRAVESEND Is situated on the south bank of the Thames estuary about 12 km east of Dartford. The Parish Church has a memorial to Pochahontas, the Indian girl who saved Captain John Smith’s life. The Riverside has a view of Tilbury Fort across the Thames. During the Armada scare, London’s defences relied on Tilbury and Gravesend forts. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page61 The open ground used for the Great Plague burials is the open ground outside to the east of the town walls. During the Great Plague of London the burial pits extended this far along the Thames – hence “graves’ end”. COOLING Is situated about 8 km north of Rochester. Cooling Castle was the ancestral home of Sir John Oldcastle – the model for Shakespeare’s Falstaff. In real life this champion of the Lollards was roasted to death by Henry V. The Parish Church is where Pip met the convict in Dickens’ “Great Expectations”. ROCHESTER Is about 14 km southeast of Gravesend and around 50 km southeast of London. It has been fought over by Celts, Jutes, Saxons, Danes and Normans. In 43 AD the Romans had a settlement here named “Durobrivae”. In 604 AD Justus was sent by Augustine to build a cathedral here. The Church and Synagogue on the Chapter House door, shows the attitude to Jews. Bishop Fisher’s House – the home of John Fisher who ordered the south wall of the Cathedral demolished so he could watch Mass without having to leave the comfort of his home. This gained him a great reputation for piety! The Martyr’s Memorial is on the wall of the Congregational Church just down the hill from the Satis house. The City Walls were built on Roman foundations. Here at Lloyd’s Bank, James II was held after trying to escape from England during the Glorious Revolution of 1688. The Abdication House on High Street is where he spent his last night as king before leaving the throne. Here at Rochester is the Medway River. Joseph Bates was held in the hulks here as a prisoner of war during the war of 1812. See his autobiography for details. Here also is Dickens’ Museum with Dickens’ memorabilia but also engravings of the hulks. The Cathedral See the outline of the apse of the Saxon church inside the door. Justus was sent here in 604 AD by Augustine to build the first cathedral. The Norman Cathedral was completed in 1130 and a splendid Norman tympanum is over the west door. Paulinus is buried in the crypt. Nicholas Ridley was he bishop from 1547 – 1550. He was martyred by Queen Mary in 1554. See also the jackets and arms left behind by Cromwell’s soldiers. The Remains of the Shrine of William of Perth, a baker murdered while on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The monks called him a saint and did very well out of his cult. The Pilgrim’s Alley is to the north door of the Cathedral. Also note the worn steps in the north aisle up which pilgrims climbed on their knees. The leaning columns in the south aisle are best seen from below looking east. Thomas Heath was sent to England as a missionary in 1568 by the Jesuits. He disguised himself as a Puritan and was allowed to preach here, railing against the Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page62 Common Book of Prayer as not sufficiently Biblical. Unfortunately a letter dropped by him as he was there showed he was a Jesuit and he was imprisoned. He died a short time later. The wall painting opposite the Cathedral shows a Wheel of Life – a Buddhist concept? The Castle Is a Norman castle built to defend the Medway crossing. Note the single round tower where King John mined the original square tower. It was rebuilt in ‘modern’ style. Climb the Norman Keep – the tallest in England - for a good photo of the cathedral. GILLINGHAM Is situated about 4 km east of Rochester. Jezreel’s Tower is now a ball bearing factory. Up until 1964 a derelict tower was what remained of the Flying Roll Jezreelites as a refuge for when the world would end. BOXLEY Is situated some 10 km south of Rochester and 4 km north of Maidstone. The Tithe Barn is a scanty remains of the once-famous Boxley Abbey and its Miraculous Rood. Halfway down the hill you cross the line of the Pilgrim’s Way by which medieval pilgrims travelled from Winchester to Canterbury. TRIP 8. CANTERBURY AND DOVER CANTERBURY The pilgrimage centre, capital of Kent – some 95 km southeast of London. Use the M2 and the A2. The Romans invaded Canterbury under Julius Caesar in 54 BC. Canterbury became the capital of Saxon Kent under Ethelbert in 560. The town is most famous as the town where Augustine arrived from Rome in 597 – sent by the pope to convert Ethelbert and his subjects. Flemish weavers settled in Canterbury to escape persecution on the Continent. Huguenots fleeing persecution in France came here along with Flemish folk. Many famous people have either grown up here or spent time in Canterbury. Christopher Marlowe the playwright of Shakespeare’s time was born here and baptised in 1546 in the church of which St. George’s Tower remains on St. George’s Street. Isaac Walton of “The Compleat Angler” fame visited frequently. Charles Dickens set part of “David Copperfield” here. The Pilgrim’s Way – the medieval pilgrim’s route led from Winchester to Canterbury. The Chapter House is where Margaret Thatcher and François Mitterrand met to sign the Chunnel agreement. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page63 In Butchery Lane – at the corner of High Street an intricately tiled Roman pavement is found. The Roman Mosaic House Museum is designed around the preserved Roman remains in that area. The medieval castle walls are built upon the original Roman fortifications. The town preserves many old houses (eg Sir John Boy’s), bookshops and quaint corners. The Weavers’ Houses are situated on St. Peter’s Street and overlook the River Stour opposite Eastbridge Hospital. Notice the “Dunking Stool” over the river. At 59 Palace Street – not far from the Cathedral main entrance is a building on which is a plaque noting that Robert Cushman transacted here the hire of the “Mayflower” in 1620 to take Puritans to the New World. The West Gate Museum has original cells etc with manacles, fetters, shackles and instruments of torture. In Martyr’s Field Road is an obelisk about 7.5 m high mentioning the faith of 41 Kentish martyrs from 1555 - 1558. Canterbury Cathedral Is the mother church of Anglicanism. The GPS co-ordinates are N 51 16.777’ E 01 04.909’. On Whitsunday 597, St. Augustine who had come to Britain as a missionary from Rome, baptised King Ethelbert of Kent. In 602 the first cathedral in Canterbury was dedicated. In 1067 the cathedral was gutted by fire. On 29 December 1170, Thomas à Beckett the Archbishop of Canterbury was murdered in the northwest transept at the western end of the crypt – murdered by four of the king’s knights. The issue was who had final authority, the king or the archbishop. Geoffrey Chaucer wrote “The Canterbury Tales” telling of visits by pilgrims to Canterbury. As a result of these pilgrimages it became the ‘Mother Church of the Realm’. In 1376 Prince Edward the Prince of Wales (The Black Prince) son of Edward III died and was buried in the Trinity Chapel. The Nave was designed around 1400 as a huge cavernous majestic place. Henry IV who died in 1413 is buried in the Trinity Chapel. In 1645, Archbishop of Canterbury, William Laud was executed by the Puritans for trying to force a standard liturgy etc. As you enter the Cathedral, on the back wall behind the ticket counter is a list of the Archbishops of Canterbury with Augustine being the first. William Temple of the early 1920’s is mentioned by Froom in his “Conditionalist Faith of Our Fathers” who records that William Temple believed in conditional immortality. The Chapel of the Twentieth Century martyrs reminds us of the cost of Christian commitment. In St. Anselm’s Chapel is a 12th century wall painting showing Paul at Miletus shaking off the viper. In the crypt is a chapel French Huguenots have used for worship ever since the Revocation of the Order of Nantes when many fled from France. Note the sign outside by the footpath. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page64 The stained glass windows (may need binoculars) show Biblical scenes and the supposed miracles which occurred at Beckett’s shrine. The choir (Quire) has twelve miracle windows. St. Augustine’s Abbey Ruins Are in Longport Street – east of the Cathedral and outside the walls a couple of blocks. They include a Norman church, a crypt and parts of a monastery. The Frydon Gate to the Abbey still stands. St. Dunstan’s Church Henry II submitted to be scourged here in expiation of the death of Tomas à Beckett. The head of Sir Thomas More is buried in the Roper Chapel. The home of the Roper family is opposite the church. St. Martin’s Church Is just a little outside the city – southeast from the Abbey Church. It was built in Roman times. Ethelbert gave it to Bertha his wife in 561. She prayed for 35 years for the conversion of England. Roman tiles; a Saxon arch and font are here – possibly used for the baptism of Ethelbert. Norman Castle Is at the junction of Castle Street and Rheims Way. It was used as a prison. Many Protestant martyrs were held here. Some were burned just days before Bloody Mary died. Museum Has Pilgrim badges and ampoules for holy water. There are Christian Mass utensils from 400 AD. Pilgrim’s Hostel Situated on the south side of High Street. Is typical of pilgrim accommodation (also Cheque of Hope Inn – almost opposite). Queen Elizabeth I stayed here to entertain the Duc D’Alençon in 1573 and the name Queen Elizabeth’s Guest Chamber has stuck through the years. Monument Is in an enclosure on Martyr’s Field Road. There is a monument 8 m high to the martyrs of Kent who died 1555 – 1558. The list includes Archbishop Cranmer. King’s School Is situated just to the north of the Cathedral inside the walls. It is claimed to be the oldest public school in England. It was founded at the time of Augustine. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page65 Many of the school buildings were once part of the monastery associated with the Cathedral. Somerset Maugham was educated here and his ashes are scattered over the grounds. Greyfriars The 13th century house that spans the River Stour is opposite and nearby the Canterbury Heritage Museum. It is the oldest Franciscan building in Britain. CHILHAM Is situated about 10 km southwest of Canterbury. The tomb of St. Augustine was placed here after the Reformation. RAMSGATE Situated some 28 km northeast of Canterbury – use the A28 and A253. On the coast near the most easterly part of Britain is a modern memorial marking the place where St. Augustine landed in England. It is not far from the Hoverport. DEAL Is situated on the coast east of Canterbury and 25 km south of Ramsgate by road. There is a plaque commemorating Caesar’s landing in his invasion of Britain on the 22nd and 23rd August 55 BC. These dates have been confirmed not the 25th August. Also here is one of the castles built by Henry VIII to repel threats of invasion after severing ties with Rome. DOVER Is situated on the coast of the English Channel, southeast from Canterbury. Is the gateway to France and the Continent. The famous “White Cliffs” are best seen from a Channel Ferry. To the north of the town on the downs is the Bleriot Memorial, where Bleriot landed on the first cross-channel flight 25 July 1909. This aviation feat won Bleriot 100 pounds. Dover Castle Was originally built by Henry II in 1198. It dominates the town from any angle and was used as a command post for the evacuation at Dunkirk. On fine days, France may be seen from here. Tunnelled in the chalk cliffs below the Castle is a hospital equipped for use during World War II. A visit of a couple of hours or more is well worth while. The GPS coordinates of the tunnels are: N 51 07.584’ E 01 19.401’. ROMNEY Situated down the coast some 25 km southwest from Folkestone. It is now divided into New Romney and Old Romney on the A259. It has a military canal, which was dug to help repel the French. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page66 A Museum has clothing worn by Charles I at his execution. Offham Hill – to the north of the town, is where Simon de Montfort defeated Henry II on 13 May 1264. A well-known breed of sheep - Romney Marsh were bred in the area. BATTLE Situated some 10 km northwest of Hastings. Is the site where William the Conqueror defeated King Harold in 1066. There are some displays and then a walk around the battle site (with portable commentary) is worthwhile. Battle Abbey was built by William the Conqueror and the ruins of the Abbey are here with associated sites. Well worth a visit. WARBLETON Is situated some 6 km southeast of Heathfield and some 10 km or more northeast of Hailsham – on an unnumbered road between the B2096 and the A271. The parish church in nearby Warbleton has a Victorian engraving showing Richard Woodman being burnt with nine others. TARRING NEVILLE Is situated some 2 km north of Newhaven on the A26 and about 6 km south of Lewes. Here John Tillinghast was the rector of the parish church as well as preaching in London. Tillinghast was the first to recognise that the ‘Seventy weeks of Daniel 9’ were ‘cut off’ from the 2300 day-year prophecy of Daniel 8. LEWES Is situated some 14 km northeast of Brighton by way of the A27. The Martyr’s Memorial is on Malling Hill to the east of the town. Drive through a housing estate to reach it. It commemorates 17 Protestant martyrs during the time of Bloody Mary. EAST GRINSTEAD Situated some 40 km north of Lewes by way of the A 26 and the A22 and about 20 km south of the M25 at Exit 6. In the churchyard there is a message engraved on three paving stones. “Beneath these stones are interred (as is believed) the ashes of Thomas Dungate, Anne Tree, and John Forman, who were burned to death in High Street, East Grinstead, 1556 for adherence to the Reformed faith. Fideles Usque ad Mortem” (Faithful unto Death). ALBURY Is situated about 6 km southeast of Guildford. If coming from London exit the M25 at Exit 10 for Guildford on the A3 and then take the A247 after about 10 km then the A25 and the A248 – then after a short distance an unnumbered road to Albury. Here at the Victorian Gothic mansion, a Henry Drummond convened in 1826 five Prophetic Conferences. Drummond who served as a member of the House of Commons for three different terms was interested in prophecy and had given funds Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page67 to Joseph Wolff who preached the Coming of Christ as a missionary through the Middle East. Forty-four participants came together for prayer and Bible study to understand prophecy. Among those present were Irving, Wolff, and a Wilson who became Bishop of Calcutta and a Lord Mandeville. They came to the conclusion that the 2300-year prophecy was to end in 1847 – and this before William Miller began to preach! BRIGHTON Is situated on the coast south of London and 35 km west of Eastbourne. If coming direct to or from London use the A23/M23. The most famous building is the Royal Pavilion – built in 1787 for the then Prince of Wales. It is built in the style of an Indian mogul’s palace by John Nash. Now a museum, it is crammed full with period furniture and artwork. CHICHESTER Situated about 100 km south-southwest of London (A24 and A29 and A27) and about 45 km west of Brighton. It is an English “Market Town” with a cathedral dating to the 12th century. It was originally a Roman town ‘Noviomagus’ with streets and roads radiating from the cathedral. The Chichester Cross was built in 1501. Thomas Iveson was burned here in 1557 for attending a Protestant prayer meeting in Brighton. TRIP 9 SALISBURY AND STONEHENGE STONEHENGE Take the M3 and the A303 to Andover. Stonehenge is on Salisbury Plain and is Europe’s most famous prehistoric monument. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 10.816’ W 01 49.645’. It was a centre of heathen worship. Druids still meet here each mid-summer’s day. Entry to the stone circle is not permitted – but can be walked around. Other stone circles are to be found around the countryside. Some can be seen from the highway. AVEBURY Is situated about 40 km north of Stonehenge. Use the A360 and A361. Is a large stone circle – somewhat the equivalent of Stonehenge. SILBURY HILL Is situated near Avebury Stone Circle where the A4 crosses the A361. It is Europe’s largest prehistoric earthwork – some 40 m high and built out of chalk blocks. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page68 Nearby the West Kennet Long Barrow – the largest chambered tomb in England dates to 3250 BC. WOODHENGE Is just to the north of Stonehenge (1 km north of Amesbury on the A345) but a much less impressive remains of a “henge” of wooden logs. SALISBURY Is situated about 12 km south of Stonehenge, where the A 338, the A 345 and the A 36 meet. From Stonehenge travel east to Amesbury on the A 303 and then south on the A345. It contains many fine old houses and has a particularly picturesque cathedral. The cathedral has the tallest spire in Britain being123 m high (404 ft). In the Cathedral Chapter House(part of the cathedral complex) are stone pictures of the story of Genesis and Exodus as well as a copy of the Magna Carta. On high street is the Church of St Thomas which has a Doom painting from the early 16th century. It depicts Christ seated in judgement with demons seizing the damned. Just to the west of Salisbury is Wilton on the A 36. It is known for its carpet-making, introduced by the Earl of Pembroke with Huguenot refugees. In the street down from the entrance to the cathedral in The Close is Malmesbury House at 15 a, b & c, The Close. Here on the wall is a plaque to the martyrdom of William Coberley, John Maundrel and John Spicer who were burnt at the stake here on 24 March 1556. It mentions Rev 1:9 “for the word of God and the testimony of Jesus Christ”. Note in the same street the sundial on the wall with the maxim “Life is but a walking shadow”. Also of great interest here is the plaque near the sundial noting that in 1752 the Reformation of the Calendar took place with the introduction of the Gregorian Calendar, correcting the error by then of 11 days from the Julian Calendar. BREAMORE Is situated about 12 km south of Salisbury. The old Saxon church has an inscription in Old English over the arch on the south wall: “In this place the Word is revealed unto thee”. SOUTHAMPTON Is situated on the southern coast of England. Is a large shipping port. Something of the glamour still remains of the days when Trans-Atlantic liners left Southampton for New York. On the wharf is a memorial to the Pilgrims in the shape of a lighthouse. BEAULIEU Is situated 10 km south-southwest of Southampton (use A326 and B3054). The old Cistercian Abbey is here with the Great Coxwell Tithe Barn. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page69 PORTSMOUTH Is situated some 25 km southeast of Southampton. This is the birthplace of the Royal Navy. Nelson’s flagship the “Victory” is permanently moored in dry-docks and is now a museum. Next to the “Victory” is the “Mary Rose” built by Henry VIII but which capsized in a storm See “Sallyport” – the old port area. Portchester Castle is situated on the northern side of the harbour and was used by Henry V in gathering his army prior to the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. Portsmouth also has the Charles Dickens Museum – in the house where he was born in 1812. WINCHESTER Is situated about 20 km northeast of Southampton by the M3. Once the original capital of Great Britain. St. Cross Hospital – outside the town was established in 1136. The porter still hands out the wayfarers’ dole of bread and ale to the first twenty applicants in the morning – be early! Winchester College was founded by William of Wykeham (tomb in the cathedral). The Motto is something like, “Learn, leave, or be licked” in Latin. The Castle has in its Great Hall near the East Gate, King Arthur’s Round Table which dates to 1235. This part is the remains of the castle built by William the Conqueror. Many English Parliaments sat here. Winchester Cathedral The largest Romanesque church in Europe. Saxon kings and bishops are buried here also King Canute and his wife Emma, William Rufus the third son of William the Conqueror, Jane Austen (Pride and Prejudice), and Isaac Walton. Philip of Spain and Bloody Mary were married here 25 July 1554. A memorial to ‘Soapy Sam’ Bishop Wilberforce who lost the evolution debate with Thomas Huxley is here. The 12th century Winchester Bible and a 10th century copy of Bede’s Ecclesiastical History are in the library – ask if you can photograph. Murals of the Virgin are in the Lady Chapel. A holy well is in the crypt. TRIP 10 SOMERSET, DEVON AND CORNWALL CASTLE CARY Is situated on the B3152 about 7 km north of the A303 by either the A359 or the A371 and about 20 km northeast of Yeovil and the same northwest of Shaftesbury. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page70 A domed village lock-up was built in 1779 (then at the cost of 23 pounds) to imprison children caught playing games on the ‘Sabbath’. SHERBORNE Is situated about 9 km east of Yeovil on the A30. It is a lovely town of golden stone. In the Abbey are a Saxon doorway and the tombs of Ethelbald and Ethelbert. A curious mermaid boss is in the nave. CERNE ABBAS Situated about 24 km north of Weymouth and 15 km south of Sherborne on the A352. Here is the “Giant” a very graphic fertility figure carved out of the chalk hillside. TAUNTON Is situated just north of the M5 about 50 km northeast of Exeter. In the Great Hall of the Castle, now a museum, Judge Jeffreys held the Assizes in 1685. This was to put down the Monmouth Rebellion against James II which left hundreds hanging on trees around the town. The SDA church is in a renovated coach house where Wesley housed his coach etc on his travels. Next door, across an alley, is an antique shop which originally was the stables. EXETER Is the capital of Devon and is located on the River Exe at the southern end of the M5. Portions of its Roman and medieval walls are around the city. Here in Exeter, Agnes Priest confounded her accusers but was burned for heresy outside the city walls at Southernhay. The Exeter Cathedral The Cathedral and the green was the setting for Anthony Trollope’s novel, “He Knew He Was Right”. In the Library is a Vinegar Bible. A boss in the nave depicts the murder of Thomas a’Beckett. Look for the Elephant Miserere – shown with cow hooves. Thomas Benet Livery Dole is located on Denmark Road off the A30. Thomas Benet who held a Masters Degree from Cambridge fled here. Benet was arrested when his son was caught sticking pamphlets on the railing of the cathedral. He was burnt for heresy 15 January 1534. A monument marks the place. NEWTON ABBOT Is about 30 km south of Exeter. At one end of an island in the main street is the place where William of Orange was proclaimed king in 1688. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page71 BUCKLAND-IN-THE-MOOR Situated about 4 km northwest of Ashburton, and some 30 km southwest of Exeter on the A38. It is one of the best villages on Dartmoor with the houses built of granite stone and with thatched roofs. TORQUAY Is about 10 km southeast of Newton Abbot. Here is the ‘barn’ in the grounds of Torre Abbey where survivors of the Spanish Armada were kept. It is now a restaurant. In the Coverdale Tower a dubious tradition says that Miles Coverdale worked here on the translation of the Bible. Cockington on the western edge of the town, is a tourist place where visitors come by with horse drawn carriages to see a Tudor manor house, church, thatched cottage and forge. DARTMOUTH Is situated some 15 km south from Torquay. The Australian explorers Burke and Wills came from here. The Pilgrim Fathers called here in the “Mayflower” – a plaque on the docks commemorates the event. PLYMOUTH Is situated in the southwest of Devon on the coast. See the Hoe – (sometimes spelt Ho) - where Sir Francis Drake kept on playing his famous game of bowls when told of the approach of the Spanish Armada. The Armada Memorial is nearby. During the English Civil War Portsmouth fought with the Republican army. When Charles II returned to England as king, he built a castle by the harbour, ostensibly to protect shipping, but also to keep the people of Plymouth in order. Sutton Harbour & The Barbican Here at Pilgrim’s Quay is the Mayflower Stone and Steps to commemorate where the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from England on the “Mayflower” in 1620. Originally the steps went further back almost to the Pub. It was here that they abandoned the unseaworthy “Speedwell”. Note the plaque and stone on the docks. There is a list of the emigrants on the wall of the Ice-Cream Shop on the Barbican. The Baptist church, now rebuilt, gave hospitality to the Pilgrim Fathers. The Blackfriars Gin Distillery also has a list of the Pilgrim Father immigrants on the wall of the bar on the first floor. Some obviously stayed here prior to leaving. The nearby houses were also used prior to sailing. The Tourist Information House has a good display of the Pilgrim Fathers on the top floor. Captain Cook, Sir Walter Raleigh and Charles Darwin all sailed from here from Sutton Harbour. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page72 YELVERTON Is situated about 15 km north of Plymouth just on the B3212 as it turns off the A306. Here is Buckland Abbey, established by the Cister monks in 1278. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, it became a house and belonged to Sir Francis Drake from 1581 until his death in 1596. Notice the huge Tithe Barn. PRINCETON Is situated near the intersection of the B3212 and the B3357. An information centre is here with details of places to visit on Dartmoor. Dartmoor Prison is here – Britain’s most secure prison. Photography strictly not allowed – nor are cars allowed to stop. Joseph Bates was imprisoned here and tried to dig a tunnel to freedom. POLPERRO Is about 30 km west of Plymouth at the end of the A387. It is a village on the Cornish Coast. There is a plaque on the old market hall commemorating John Wesley. GWENNAP PIT Situated just to the east of Redruth (about 45 km northeast from Land’s End). Take the exit from the A30 (Scorrier Exit if coming from the east and Scorrier and Blackwater sign if coming from the west). Continue past the Crossroads Hotel and under the railway arch to the roundabout with a Gwennap Pit sign. From Falmouth travel on the Redruth road to the ‘Fox and Hounds’ – then signs to Carharrack and Gwennap Pit. It is a natural amphitheatre. A Visitor Centre is open June – Sep 1000 – 1630 hrs, otherwise by arrangement (Phone 01209 821390). The Pit itself is open all the year around. John Wesley preached here to miners 18 times between 1762 and 1789. It is still used Sunday nights in summer. Services in July and August are at 2.30 pm. TRURO Is situated some 15 km northeast of Redruth. Is the capital of Cornwall. See the Cornish craft shops lining its cobbled streets and alleys. The Royal Cornwall Museum, besides having displays on tin mining, smuggling and archaeology, has a display on Methodism. TINTAGEL Is situated on the west coast of Cornwall near Tintagel Head. From the A 39 the B3314 west to near Penpethy then via Penpethy to the coast. If coming from the north take the B3263 directly to Tintagel. Here is the famous Tintagel Castle the legendary birthplace of King Arthur. TREWINT Is situated on the A30 some 8 km southwest of Launceston. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page73 Here is Wesley’s Cottage TRIP 11 WESTERN BRITAIN BRADFORD-ON-AVON Is located some 15 km southeast of Bath, by way of the A4 and A363. See the Saxon church and the tithe barn. Bridge Chapel was where pilgrims to Glastonbury could pray. BATH Is situated in Wessex about 20 km southeast of Bristol on the Avon River. Bath was first settled by the Romans in 43AD and called Aquae Sulis (Roman Bath). These are extensive Roman ruins including the whole bathing complex and Temple dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva. The Restored Roman Baths are well worth the visit. The “Great Bath” in Stall Street and the Pump Room next door tells of the days when Bath was a popular social centre for those “taking the waters”. The SDA Church is the very small building on the immediate right hand side of the Abbey as you face it and to the rear. Longleat is a notable stately home. The city is known for its Georgian architecture – eg the Royal Crescent – known as the most majestic street in Britain. Thomas Gainsborough the painter lived at No 17. Jane Austen visited Bath frequently and here is the Jane Austen Centre. Bath Abbey Jacob’s Ladder is portrayed on the front of the Abbey with angels in stone going up and down the ladder. The GPS co-ordinates of Abbey & Roman Bath: N 51 22.880’ W 02 21.573’. The Edgar Window commemorates the coronation of King Edgar, the first king of England crowned in 973 – the order of service is still used. Fragments of Saxon crosses are in the choir vestry. A copy of Caxton’s “Golden Legend” is in the library. WELLS Is situated about 30 km south of Bristol. In the Cathedral is the “Chained Library” where books are chained to the shelves. In the north transept is a 700-year-old clock that tolls the hour and puts on a knightly tournament between four mounted and armoured figures. GLASTONBURY Is situated in Somerset some 8 km southwest from Wells. The ruined Abbey has the supposed tombs of Arthur and Guinevere. The first Christian Sanctuary in the British Isles was established here, according to legend by Joseph of Arimathea in the first century AD. The Glastonbury Thorn – supposed to be from Joseph of Arimathea’s staff – flowers only at Christmas. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page74 The Somerset Rural Life Museum has displays of traditional country crafts – it was once the Tithe Barn of the 14th century Abbey. The Tribunal was once the medieval courthouse – is now a museum of the Lake Village. Glastonbury was one of the most famous pilgrimage sites in Britain. The Glastonbury Tor is a curious mountain overlooking Glastonbury. It is the centre of modern superstitions about “ley lines” – feel the vibes! MEARE Is situated about 5km west of Glastonbury on the B3151. It has a pre-historic bog village. CHEDDAR Is situated some 13 km from Wells on the A371. Famous for caves and the spectacular Cheddar Gorge with rocks rising vertically to 120 m. This place has given its name to Cheddar Cheese originally made locally and which once used the caves to cure the cheese. On the road up the Gorge between Cheddar and Burrington Combe is the rock which sheltered and inspired Augustus Toplady to write the hymn “Rock of Ages” in 1776. He was the curate at Blagdon (on the A368). Another reference says the associating of Toplady with the Rock in Cheddar is extant only from around 1850. BRISTOL Is situated on the River Avon – a little upstream from its mouth on Bristol Channel. Since the 11th century this city was a bustling seaport until recent times. Cabot sailed from here to discover Newfoundland (1497) and the New World. Some say that America was named after Richard Ameryek – the customs officer who gave Cabot a pension. The SS Great Britain was the first large iron propeller-driven passenger ship – built here in 1843, sailed around the world 32 times. For 25 years the SS Great Britain sailed the Australia route. It was abandoned in the Falkland Islands, recovered and restored here on Gas Ferry Road – just south of the Floating Harbour at the Great Western Dock and near the Maritime Heritage Centre. The Llandoger Trow Inn in King Street is where Daniel Defoe met Alexander Selkirk and used his story as the basis for “Robinson Crusoe” in 1719. John Wesley’s Chapel Is located at 36 The Horsefair in the centre of the old town. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 27.463’ W 02 35.387’. This was founded by John Wesley in 1739 and called “The New Room”. It is the oldest Methodist building in the world. John and Charles lived in the living rooms above, and Wesley stayed here perhaps more than any other place during his preaching travels. After John Wesley’s first open air preaching 2 April 1739 with 3000 people, the churches and buildings were so crowded Wesley realised a ‘New Room’ was necessary. Taking possession of a piece of ground in the Horsefair, building was commenced 12 May 1739. It was enlarged in 1748 to cope with the growing Methodist Movement. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page75 Even though Wesley was a Church of England clergyman, he was forced to register the new building as a ‘dissenting chapel’ and thus it is the oldest chapel in Methodism. Here the new believers were grouped in classes of about 12 and even smaller bands. They met to study the Bible, confess their sins, and encourage one another in Christian living. The building was living quarters for Wesley and his helpers, but was also a dispensary, lending library and a school – all free to the poor. They preached here for over 40 years. The first service of the day was at 5.00 am enabling working people to attend and then go to work, men and women sitting separately. Holy Communion was celebrated here – always led by an Anglican clergymen such as John Wesley. Lovefeasts were held when cake and water were shared and people talked of how the Lord was working in their lives. During Wesley’s life at least 18 annual Methodist Conferences were held here, the one in 1790 seeing 130 Methodist preachers present. Statues of John and Charles are in the courtyards – one at each end. It is open Monday to Saturday 1000 – 1600 hrs. St. Austin’s Green Is a large meadow where William Tyndale preached to crowds while living at Little Sodbury after he left Cambridge. Here Tyndale’s conviction deepened that preaching without the Scriptures in English would have little effect and decided to translate the Scriptures. George Mueller’s Orphanages The building today is used as a Technical College. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 28.624’ W 02 34.804’. The buildings are now the Brunel Technical College – part of the City of Bristol College, Brunel Campus. The buildings are situated about halfway along Ashley Down Road on both sides of Ashley Down Road around the corner with Sefton Park Road. Overlooking the Orphanages down the road are fields where Separatist preachers preached. The George Mueller Museum It is at Mueller House, 7 Cotham Park Road. It is open between 1000 and 1600 hrs Monday to Fridays. Visitors are welcome. Prior notification to your visit is appreciated. SEE APPENDIX 16 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE MUELLER Church at St. Michael’s Hill Road and Cotham Road Is at the corner of these roads – just a little north of Baldwin and Park Streets at the end of the floating harbour. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page76 On the church fence (wall) facing St. Michael’s Hill Road is a large stone – a fragment of the Medieval Bewell’s Cross that marked the boundary of Bristol until the 19th century. A plaque on the church facing Cotham Road notes martyrs with these words: In memory of the undernamed who for conscience sake were willing to lay down their lives and were burned to death on the spot on which this chapel stands in the reign of Queen Mary on the dates affixed: William Shapton Oct 17, 1555 Edward Sharpe Sep 8, 1556 Richard Sharp May 17, 1557 Thomas Banion Aug 17, 1557 Hanham Mount Is approx 5 km east of Bristol. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 51 27.092’ W 02 30.525’. Take Lawrence Hill Road from the City Centre which becomes Church Road, then Summerhill Road and then Nagshead Road and finally High Street. Take Greenbank Road northwards onto Mount Hill Road which becomes Cock Road. Hanham Mount is near to the top of the hill on the left-hand side. George Whitfield had begun open air preaching here early in 1739 and crowds came to hear him. He planned to leave for North America and asked John Wesley to come from London and help him. Wesley was at first very reluctant but persuaded by the fact that Jesus preached in the open air preached his first open air sermon on Monday 2nd April 1739 at a brickyard in St Philips. Note the plaque to Wesley and his preaching. A few metres further along the path is the plaque to Baptist preachers who would swim the Avon River and preach here to crowds of local people – and were persecuted for their preaching. Note the cross in the railing set up on the hill. A pulpit was here for many years. Bristol City Docks In Canon Road in the City Docks is a replica of “Santa Maria” – Christopher Columbus’ flagship. Guides in period costumes show you through a museum of medieval life at sea. St. Mary Ratcliffe In this church are the arms of Admiral Penn and the tomb of one of the Runnymede Barons. See also the grave of the church cat in the graveyard. SEE APPENDIX 17 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE WHITEFIELD SEE APPENDIX 18 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM TYNDALE Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page77 BERKELEY Is situated about 15 km north of Little Sodbury and 25 km southwest of Gloucester – near the Severn Estuary. Here is the Jenner Cottage near the parish church where Edward Jenner conducted some of his vaccination experiments. The parish church has a font for infant baptism – large enough for baptism by immersion. The entrance doors were damaged by Cromwellian soldiers. At Berkeley Castle King Edward II was murdered in 1327. TINTERN Situated some 15 km south of Monmouth or about 30 km north of Bristol, on the Welsh border. Interesting archaeological excavations has revealed what is said to be the most beautiful Abbey in Britain – immortalised in poetry and painting. Between Tintern and St. Briavels the remnants of an earth wall built by King Offa to contain the Welsh is called Offa’s Dyke Path. HAY-ON-WYE Is situated about 60 km northwest of Gloucester on the Welsh border. This is a town of books. Richard Booth’s Bookshop is 44 Lion Street, Hay-on- Wye. Phone (0497) 82 0322. If books are a temptation – here is a town of them! GLOUCESTER Is situated about 60 km northeast of Bristol. In 1216 Henry III was crowned in the Cathedral. Edward II (murdered 1327 at Berkeley Castle) is buried near the high altar. While here, William the Conqueror ordered a survey of his new kingdom: the result – the Doomesday Book of 1086. The Norman Cathedral has stained glass windows to the memory of those who fought at Crecy in 1350. There is a memorial to Edward Jenner. A monument is here to Bishop Hooper who was burnt at the stake. The Folk Museum is where Bishop Hooper was imprisoned before being martyred, has the stump of the stake and the mace of the sergeant who brought him here from London. There is a Beatrix Potter Museum near the Cathedral in the building used as an illustration for the book “The Tailor of Gloucester”. DOWN AMPNEY Is situated about 12 km southeast of Circencester. It has a fascinating church with a preaching cross in the churchyard. There is also a mural of a Syrian saint whose intestines were wound out on a spindle. A hymn tune is named after this town. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page78 TRIP 12 NORTH TO SCOTLAND For St. Albans – See Trip 1. For Bedford and area – see Trip 5. LUTTERWORTH Is situated just to the west of the M1 north of Bedford. Note Stanford Hall. The House of William and Mary of 1690 is here. This is also the place where Frank Whittle lived – he invented the jet engine. There is a plaque on a building just off the street to the left leading to the church on the right hand side. Around the corner from the church and up the hill on a roundabout is a large statue of John Wycliffe. Ira GPA co-ordinates are: N 52 27.406’ W 01 12.114’. John Wycliffe’s home is also reported to be here in Lutterworth. St. Mary’s Parish Church This church in the diocese of Leicester dates to the end of the 12th century or early 13th century. Its GPS coordinates are: N 52 27.332’ E 01 12.134’. It was to this church that John Wycliffe was called as rector in 1375 and in which he preached. Visit the church with its old graveyard. During his last years here Wycliffe translated the Bible into English and gave the Scriptures to his “poor preachers” the Lollards to take through the length and breadth of England. The Wycliffe Memorial is located at the east end of the South Aisle and shows him preaching to the villagers with two mendicant friars behind him objecting to his preaching. Note the inscription. A painting of Wycliffe is at the rear of the church – to the left as you enter. Wycliffe’s chair is at the left rear of the altar. The pulpit probably contains parts that date back to Wycliffe’s time. Wycliffe suffered a stroke while in the church and was carried to his deathbed from here 31 December 1384 – aged about 54. John Wycliffe was buried near his memorial – probably in the chancel of the church although the place of his grave is uncertain. The Council of Constance in 1415 decreed that his body should be exhumed and burnt. This took place some thirteen years later in 1428 and by papal decrees his ashes were thrown into the stream below the rectory and below the town – the Swift – a tributary of the Severn. The church may be closed at times. The Church office phone is (01455) 558797 and the rector (01455) 552669. SEE APPENDIX 19 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WYCLIFFE LEICESTER Is situated just to the east of the M1 about 60 km north of Northampton. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page79 It boasts a Museum of Technology. The Grave of Cardinal Wolsey is 1.5 km north of the town in Abbey Park. A Tablet on Bow Bridge commemorates the strange prophecy of King Richard III. The Guildhall dates from the 14th century. NOTTINGHAM Is situated to the east of the M1 about 60 km north of Leicester. The North British Conference office is at 22 Zulla Road, Mapperley Park. Stanborough Press is nearby at Grantham. William Booth the founder of the Salvation Army was born at Sneinton, a suburb of Nottingham 10 April 1829. He was christened at the Sneinton Anglican Church 12 April 1829. Nearby Nottingham is Sherwood Forest – the setting for Robin Hood and his merry men. Nottingham Castle has numerous underground passages beneath it. Nearby are Museums including the Tales of Robin Hood Museum. CHESTERFIELD Is situated about 15 km due south of Sheffield or Exit 29 from the M1. Note the crooked wooden spire on the church. LINCOLN Situated northeast of Nottingham and 25 km from Newark-on-Trent. Lincoln is a ‘must see’ and well worth a visit if you are travelling nearby. It is a medieval town which has the third largest cathedral in Britain. A carving of Noah’s Ark on the west front indicated the church as an ark of safety. Note the old home of a Jew along the street towards the cathedral. Newport Arch is the north gate to the Roman town on this site. In the Lincoln Cathedral is the best copy (one of only four) of the Magna Carta. During the Second World War it was sent to the Library of Congress for safekeeping. During World War 1, secret armoured vehicles were developed in Lincoln for use on the Western Front. They were named “Tanks”. OPTIONAL DETOUR Huddersfield. A picturesque industrial city. Go up South Parade and turn left at the top for a picture. Halifax. Is an English wool town and the home of Mackintosh’s toffee. Leeds. The Folk Museum at Kirkstall Abbey 3 km out of town is considered the best in England. Leeds Town Hall is also famous. SCROOBY Is situated on the A638 just 2 km south of the A631. John Robinson associated with the Pilgrim Fathers ministered here. William Brewster, a leader of the Pilgrim Fathers was Postmaster here succeeding his father to the position. One of his tasks was to supply horses to travellers on the Great North Road. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page80 The Old Post Office is no longer used as such but is today a private dwelling. SEE APPENDIX 4 FOR A SUMMARY OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS SEE APPENDIX 20 FOR A BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN ROBINSON AUSTERFIELD Is situated on the A638 some 5 km north of Scrooby through Bawtry. Here in the old church, William Brewster, one of the leaders of the Pilgrim Fathers was baptised. GAINSBOROUGH Is situated just east of the A161 on the A631 – about 15 km south of Epworth. Take the A631 east for 35 km from Exit 1 after the M5 divides. John Robinson of the Pilgrim Fathers ministered here. William Bradford – a farmer in the area – would have sold his wool and cheeses in the market here. William Brewster the Postmaster from Scrooby, probably also bought horses here for his business. The congregation of Separatists from Gainsborough migrated to Holland before those from Scrooby. EPWORTH Is located about 6 km south of the M180 in the Humberside area. Coming to the village from the north proceed past the Methodist church and manse on the right to the town centre. In the town centre is a hotel, which was used by John Wesley on his visits to Epworth later in his ministry. Anglican Church St Andrew’s Parish Church is situated on the hill to the left from the village centre. Its GPS coordinates are: N 53 31.615’ E 00 49.137’. It is probably a 12th century church. It is still used today and is the church where Samuel Wesley (John’s father) was the rector. Note the font where John Wesley was baptised as an infant. In the cemetery beside the church on the western side (town side) is the grave of Samuel Wesley. When John Wesley was denied the use of the church here, he stood on his father’s grave and preached to the people from there. Beside Samuel Wesley’s tomb on the right when facing the church is a small headstone – the grave of Thomas Cutforth a highwayman executed in Lincoln Prison in 1720. The Home of the Wesleys A little past the centre of the village up the rise a little and on the left is the old rectory (now a Methodist museum), at 1 Rectory Street. Its GPS coordinates are: N 53 31.379’ E 00 49.031’. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page81 It is open May to September Mon to Sat 1000 – 1630 hrs and Sundays 1400 – 1630 hrs. In March, April and October Mon - Sat 1000 – 1200 hrs, 1400 – 1600 hrs and on Sundays 1400 – 1600 hrs. Phone (01427) 872268 for other arrangements. Coach groups make prior arrangements. This is where John and Charles grew up. It is also where John was saved from a fire by being passed out of an upstairs window to a neighbour standing on the shoulders of another. SEE APPENDIX 1 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WESLEY YORK Is situated on the River Ouse some 35 km north of the M62. It is an old Roman garrison town – the remains of the walls still surround the city. It was at York that Constantine was proclaimed Emperor of Rome by his troops who were stationed there. The Cathedral or Minster – signifying that it was a mission centre for evangelising the heathen is well worth a visit. One transept was struck by lightning in 1984 and burnt by the subsequent fire. It is the largest Gothic church north of the Alps with a huge collection of stained glass. The Choir Screen has the kings of England from William 1 to Henry VI. The Shambles is an area of very narrow streets with overhanging houses – a shopping precinct where the medieval town has been preserved. Look for the home of Margaret Clitheroe, a Catholic, who was forced to lie on a sharp stone and rocks were piled on top of her until she died. The Jorvik Centre is a prize-winning museum of Viking life. The Castle is the place where hundreds of Jews were herded together and then burned alive in a medieval pogrom. For railway enthusiasts the National Railway Museum is here. Bass and Flinders- famous explorers of Australia – came from this area of Britain. KNARESBOROUGH (AND SURROUNDING AREAS) Is situated some 30 km west of York. Here is Mother Shipton’s Well – the home of the 16th century prophetess who declared: “The world then to an end shall come In nineteen hundred and eighty-one”. Fountains Abbey Is about 15km northwest of Knaresborough and has very complete ruins of an Abbey. Ripon Is just to the north of Fountains Abbey Note the Cathedral An Anglo-Saxon crypt survives – including a window through which nuns suspected of immorality had to crawl to prove their innocence. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page82 Rievaulx Travel north of Ripon to Thirsk about 15 km and then east a further 15 km. Here is another significant Abbey ruin on the edgy of the North York moors. Hunt House Travelling east from Rievaulx to Pickering then north on the A169. Hunt House is a tiny hamlet about 18 km from Pickering from whence a signposted footpath leads to a remarkable stretch of Roman Road over Wheeldale Moor. THIRSK Is situated in North Yorkshire some 30 km north-northeast of Knaresborough, or some 65 km west of Scarborough by the A170. This is the “Darrowby” of the James Herriot tales. There is a World of James Herriot Centre which takes up to two hours to visit. It is open Mar – Oct 1000 – 1800 hrs and Nov – Feb 1000 – 1700 hrs. WHITBY Is situated on the River Esk estuary in Yorkshire about 50 km southeast of Middlesborough. Just below the Abbey ruins near St. Mary’s Church is Caedmon’s Cross – built about 1898 to honour the illiterate poet and religious song writer – some of whose works are still sung today. An interesting sign over a passageway going down into the town from the Abbey ruins notes “The Argument Yard”. GPS co-ordinates N 54 29.301’ W 00 36.732’. Whitby is also famous as the home of Captain James Cook. A bronze statue of him stands on the northern headland overlooking the harbour. The Captain Cook Memorial Museum is in Grape Lane in the centre of the town just south of the bridge. Cook slept in the attic here while apprenticed to a shipping firm. GPS co-ordinates are: N 54 29.214’ W 00 36.711’. The Whitby Museum and Pannett Art Gallery has some Cook artefacts. Whitby also has the bizarre history of Dracula as Bram Stoker lived here. Plaque to First Fleet to Australia Just over the bridge over the Esk River, coming from the Abbey is a small plaque on Baxtergate – the wall to the left a little - noting that two of the first fleet to Australia came from Whitby. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 54 29.`94’ W 00 36.817’. Whitby Abbey The Abbey was founded for men and women in 656/657 by Abbess Hilda. It was destroyed by the Vikings in 870. It was later rebuilt as a Benedictine Abbey in the 11th century. The Abbey ruins (from the 13th century building) are to the south of the town on the headland and a landmark for sailors. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 54 29.328’ W 00 36.522’. It is open from 1000 – 1800 hrs most months. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page83 The Synod of Whitby It was convened in the Abbey in 664 This was an historic point in the Great Controversy as the confrontation between the Celtic church leaders and the Catholic Church from the south came to a head. As a result the Celtic Christians withdrew north to Scotland and westward to Wales. The same Synod also set the dates for Easter observed by the world Church today. SEE APPENDIX 21 SYNOPSIS OF THE SYNOD OF WHITBY SEE APPENDIX 22 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF CAEDMON DARLINGTON Is situated west of Middlesborough. At Bank Top Platform is Stephensen’s “Locomotion Steam Engine” called “The Rocket” – on display on the main platform. DURHAM Is situated west of the A1 on the River Wear a tributary of the Tyne some 20 km south of Newcastle. Durham Cathedral Dates back to 1093 and is the burial place for Cuthbert from Lindisfarne. The relics of the Venerable Bede were brought here around1022. See the many relics and note the cross with “crucifixion” on one side and “judgment” on the other. Cuthbert didn’t like women and put marks on the floor beyond which they were not to come. Note also the prior’s house where Cuthbert forced Queen Eleanor to leave the Abbey at midnight in her nightie. This cathedral was a place of refuge. JARROW Situated on the south bank of the River Tyne not far from its mouth. In the monastery is a very good display on the life of Bede. HADRIAN’S WALL Take the B6318 westwards from Newcastle. Originally a Roman wall built right across England from Newcastle to Carlisle. Good viewing places are Chesters (Cilvrnvm and Brocolita and Vindolanda) on the way to Housesteads (Vercovicim). Carrawburgh has a Mithraic temple site. The closest centre on the wall to Carlisle is Birdoswald (pronounced Bird-Oswald). It is a 5-acre Roman fort with good visual displays for the interactive visitor. For those with more time, a visit to the Roman Museum at Maryport on the coast southwest of Carlisle is an option. The museum is 1 km north of the harbour. Further east from Birdoswald are other Roman ruins at Gilsland, the Poltross Burn Milecast, and further on the Roman Army Museum at Carvoran. The British Heritage Publications have a good outline on Hadrian’s Wall. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page84 HEXHAM Situated about 30 km west of Newcastle is the Abbey, a Saxon building. The Frith stool marks the centre of the one-mile sanctuary area. Here also is Bishop Acca’s cross etc. ALNWICK Is situated in Northumberland beside the A1 about 25 km north of Morpeth. Alnwick Castle dominates the town and is well worth a visit. It has been the home of the Dukes of Northumberland since 1309 and has paintings, Meissen china and other exhibits as well as the Regimental Museum of the Royal Northumberland Fusiliers. Alnwick Castle also was used as “Hogwarts” in Harry Potter films. Alnwick Garden has the world’s largest treehouse and a Poison Garden with all manner of deadly things. BAMBURGH Is situated on the coast 8 km south of Lindisfarne. The Castle on the hill is very prominent. King Oswald came here in 634 from exile in Scotland and reunited the kingdoms of Bernicia and Deira, making this his capital. Grace Darling came from Bamburgh and is known for assisting her father to rescue sailors from a shipwreck. In the parish church note “Aidan’s Rest” where Aidan was leaning when he died. LINDISFARNE Is situated just a little south of Berwick (on the border with Scotland). It is an island (Holy Island) joined by a causeway to the mainland. The causeway is covered at high tide – so watch the tide times (at the beginning of the causeway) for your return journey – or you may be forced to wait a few hours on the island. King Oswald requested from Iona a missionary for the Northumbrians and Aidan arrived in 635 AD, making Lindisfarne his centre – near the royal residence at Bamburgh. Aidan preached throughout Northumbria, with King Oswald sometimes acting as his interpreter. Here are the ruins of Lindisfarne Castle – built using stones taken from the church that was built by Aidan who came from Iona. Note the ruins of the church and Priory. The GPS co-ordinates of the priory are: N 55 40.197’ W. 01 48.097’. See the statue of Aidan as you come to the Priory and Museum. His head is framed by a Celtic Cross and in his hand a torch symbolising the light of the Gospel and a bishop’s crozier or Shepherds crook. The Lindisfarne Gospels were translated here by Eadfrid in honour of Cuthbert. They use the Greek word “Agies” for saint instead of the Lantin “Sanctus”. The rest of the Gospels are written in Latin. The Lindisfarne Gospels are among the best examples of Celtic art. They were lost for many years but are now in the British Museum. Lindisfarne was the centre of a missionary outreach under Aidan – in fact could be said to be birthplace of modern Christianity in Britain. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page85 Britain’s first monastery was here Note the book of Kells in the church. On a tombstone in the cemetery is a statement on the resurrection. The first Priory buildings were the home of monks founded by Aidan in 655. He led a great missionary movement from here. Bishop Lightfoot said, “Not Augustine, but Aidan”. Cuthbert who died in 687 was one of its great leaders after Aidan. The Danes (Vikings) attacked the island in 793 killing most of the monks and pillaging the monastery. After the pillage by the Vikings the island remained uninhabited for two centuries until in 1082 a cell of Benedictine monks was granted the See of Lindisfarne and named the island – “Holy Island” in memory of the blood shed by the monks here. Lindisfarne Priory The monks rebuilt the ruined priory and in 1120 was dedicated to St Cuthbert. Some sandstone used was quarried locally – but most came from Goswick on the mainland. Under Henry VIII the monasteries were dissolved and the Prior of the Holy Island became Bishop of Berwick and the island became the property of the crown, used as a military. This was the time the monastery was destroyed to provide stone for the new castle. Later in 1613 Lord Walsen, Earl of Dunbar ransacked the lead from the roof, the bells etc, but after leaving the island the boat sank with many on board drowning – seen as God’s displeasure for further desecration of the Holy Island. The Parish Church of St Mary This church was built between 1120 and 1145. The belfry was added in the 18th century and the whole restored in 1860. The carpet in front of the altar is a reproduction of a page of the Lindisfarne Gospels, dedicated in 1970. Lindisfarne Castle Built during Henry VIII’s reign as a defensive site against the Scots. In 1543 a large army under the Earl of Hertford (brother of Queen Jane Seymour) gathered here along with ten line of battle ships. After the union of England and Scotland under James I, the strategic importance of Lindisfarne greatly diminished. During the English Civil War it was at first a Royalist stronghold but soon was captured by the Parliamentarians. Two Jacobites captured castle in 1715 (only 7 soldiers located there with 5 absent) but these were quickly forced to surrender. In 1820 the guns of the Castle were removed and it was converted to a Coastguard station. In the 1880’s the Castle was bought by Edward Hudson as a private residence. Then in 1944 the owners Edward de Stein and his sister Gladys gave the castle to the National Trust. SEE APPENDIX 23 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF AIDAN Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page86 BERWICK-ON-TWEED Is located on the A1 to Edinburgh. This is the border city between England and Scotland. The walled town is still well preserved. Elizabeth ordered the town’s fortifications to protect the Reformation from possible invasion from Catholic Scotland. The old bridge across the Tweed dates from the 17th century and was constructed by order of James 1, of King James Version fame. POLWARTH Is situated west from Berwick-on-Tweed about 30 km through Duns and is just off the A6105. Here Grizel Home in 1684 at the age of 12 kept her father – Sir Patrick Home – alive while he hid in the vault under Polwarth church. She then helped him escape to Holland. The grating to the vault is seen at the rear under the east gable. Grizel would bring him food at night. Sir Patrick Home was given the symbol of the crowned orange to wear. Grizel Home became Lady Grizel Baillie. A monument to her is at Mellerstain House, Polwarth. JEDBURGH Is situated on the A68 about 60 km from Hadrian’s Wall and about 16 km inside Scotland. The Mary Queen of Scots House is here The old jail on the hill is worth a visit. MELROSE Situated at Melrose – just west of Newstead, some 25 km north from Jedburgh. Here are the ruins of one of the richest of the Border Abbeys – Melrose Abbey. Built by David I in 1136, it was repeatedly devastated by English raids until finally Henry VIII peeved at Scotland’s refusal to accept a marriage between his son and Mary Queen of Scots destroyed the abbey in 1545. Aidan established a Celtic Church training school here very shortly after the establishment of Lindisfarne. Robert the Bruce’s heart was embalmed and buried here. It was discovered in 1920. Just 2 km east of Newstead is a panoramic view at Scott’s View and nearby is a monument to Wallace. TRAQUAIR Is loceated just over a km south from the A72 on the B709 and about 8 km east of Peebles. Here Traquair House has been a Catholic Stuart stronghold. Mary Queens of Scots visited here and her crucifix is here as is a bedspreadc she made herself. The Bear Gates will not be opened until a Stuart is once more enthroned. The Gates were last used in 1745 during a visit by Bonnie Prince Charlie. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page87 Of great interest is the secret stairway leading to the Priest’s Room where clerical vestments are kept, but which could be quickly made into bedspreads. ASHKIRK Situated on the A7 between Hawick and Selkirk in Scotland. Here was St. Ninian’s well. Early Christians were baptised here. The well is near the parish church on an unclassified road southwest of the village towards Roberton. HADDINGTON Is situated some 30 km east of Edinburgh on the Tyne River. Is the birthplace of John Knox. An oak tree in the front yard of a house in Giffordgate in Haddington has a plaque beside it noting that near this place was the house where John Knox was born. A statue of John Knox is seen on the former Knox Institute, Knox Place Haddington – since converted into flats in 1985. SEE APPENDIX 24 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN KNOX SEE APPENDIX 25 FOR A SUMMARY OF THE COVENANTERS SEE APPENDIX 26 FOR POEM “PERSECUTION OF SCOTTISH COVENANTERS” NORTH BERWICK Is situated on the southern side of the Firth of Forth on the A198 north of the A1. In the old churchyard is a stone mentioning John Blackadder, a famous Covenanter preacher who was buried here early 1686. From here Bass Rock is quite visible slightly to seawards – the prison for Blackadder and many other Covenanters. BASS ROCK Is an island at the mouth of the Firth of Forth. It was used as a prison for many Covenanters including Alexander Peden and John Blackadder (from 1681 for 4 1/2 years). Bass Rock is now accessible to bona fide naturalists. Permission to visit is obtained from Mr. R. Marr who operates the boat trips from North Berwick. EDINBURGH Edinburgh Castle Open 0930 – 1800 hrs April – October closing by 1700 hrs the rest of the year. Good views of Edinburgh are had from the Castle battlements. The Changing of the Guard takes place each morning. “Beating the Retreat” takes place on the Castle Esplanade May to June at 2000 hrs. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page88 St. Margaret’s Chapel (Margaret was the sister of Harold’s heir) is the oldest building in Edinburgh and dates from 1076. Margaret ‘reformed’ the Scottish Church doing away with the keeping of Saturday for worship. GPS co-ordinates are:- N 55 56.925’ W 03 12.010’. The Castle is floodlit at night – great for photography. The Palace or Queen Mary’s Rooms – James VI was born here in 1566 (became James 1 of England – and of King James Bible fame). GPS co-ordinates are:- N 55 56. 893’ W 03 11.980’. The Crown Room (no cameras allowed) – the crown is made of Scottish gold, pearls and precious stones. The sceptre and sword of state are also shown here. Also here is the Stone of Destiny over which all Scottish kings were crowned, later stolen by the British and returned only in 1996. The Great Hall features many famous Scots often shown in the windows. The Castle Forecourt is the scene of the annual Military Tattoo. Don’t miss the Edinburgh Festival (last three weeks of August) – Tattoo, Film Festival etc. Royal Mile – High Street This street leads to Holyrood House and was one Scottish mile in length – hence the name. It has a number of names and begins as the Castle Esplanade, Castlehill, then it becomes Lawnmarket, then High Street, then Canongate and finally Abbey Strand. It is Edinburgh Old Town’s busiest street. With the Castle behind you at the end of the forecourt, near the steps on the right, the first building has a cannon ball embedded half-way up in its wall. On the left hand side is a plaque (opposite the steps), noting that more than 300 women were burnt here for witchcraft between 1479 and 1722. In 1538 Dean Thomas Forrest was burnt at the stake on Castle Hill with four others (Wylie Vol 2, 479). The Witchery Is a restaurant nearly opposite but down the road a little from the plaque noting the burning of witches. It is at 352 Castlehill. Dr. Samuel Johnson met regularly here with James Boswell around 1770. The Deacon Brodie Pub Is located on at 435 Lawnmarket between the Castle and St. Giles Cathedral – on the left-hand side coming down the street. On its wall is found the story of Brodie who was a ‘deacon’ or guild leader and designed a gallows used outside St. Giles for criminals. Brodie was a locksmith by trade and made the locks for the most prominent homes in the city, then systematically robbed them at night. Caught, he escaped and fled to Holland. Brodie wrote to his mistress in Edinburgh but the letter was intercepted and the authorities set off to capture him. He was brought back to Edinburgh and hung on his own gallows – a modern Haman! Some say that Robert Louis Stevenson based his “Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde” on this story. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page89 St. Gile’s Cathedral Is on the right hand side of High Street going down the street. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 56.971’ W 03 11.491’. Note the Mercat Cross outside below the church– a place of preaching and public proclamations. Royal proclamations are read here and election results announced. It was here that Bonnie Prince Charlie was proclaimed King of Scotland in 1745. John Knox was the first Protestant minister 1559 – 1572. By the West Door is the Heart of Midlothian, which is a heart-shaped mosaic builit into the pavement stones, which marks the site of the former Tolbooth or prison. Prisoners used to spit as they entered the prison and some people today spit on the Heart as they pass for good luck. See the Statue of Knox in the Cathedral in the southwest corner – far left side as you enter. A memorial to the Duke of Argyll, a powerful Covenanter, who was executed in Edinburgh in 1661, is in St. Eloise’s Chapel (He is buried at Kilmun). A tablet beside the gate to the Moray Aisle is to the memory of Jenny Geddes., and a stool is shown as a reminder of that event. According to oral tradition, in 1637 she struck the first blow for freedom of conscience by hurling a stool at the Dean who was attempting to introduce High Church practices and reading from an English Prayer Book. In the middle of the church right-hand side as you enter – over a door is a great picture or window of Knox preaching. A copy of the National Covenant was signed here in 1638. In the northwest corner of the church was the site of the infamous Haddo’s Hole, a dreary prison used to house Covenanters after the battle of Rullion Green. Over the entrance to the Cathedral notice the angel featured playing bagpipes. Behind the Cathedral and in front of the Houses of Parliament is a statue to Charles II. His forces defeated the Covenanters at Bothwell Bridge in July 1679. John Knox is buried in Parliament Square – behind St. Giles, under parking bay 44 – may not be there if spaces have been re-numbered. A stone with JK 1572 used to be on the grave site, but is now in the Cathedral. SEE APPENDIX 24 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN KNOX Oldest House in Edinburgh It is situated right next door to and above Knox House on the same side of the street. It used to belong to Daniel Defoe of “Robinson Crusoe” fame – based on the story of Alexander Selkirk – a Scot marooned on an island. Knox House It is on the northern (left-hand) side at 43 - 45 High Street. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 57.027’ W 03 11.113’. It is easily recognised as it projects out into the street. It is now a museum (closed Sundays) but well worth a visit, with displays of Knox’ life etc. Built in 1743, it was added to and altered in the 19th century. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page90 Knox never lived here – but probably died here, spending the last few months of his life here. F.W. Boreham writing in “Life’s Verses: The Bible’s Impact on Famous Lives” tells that Richard Bannatyne Knox’s co-worker stood beside Knox as he was dying and whispered, “Have you hope?” Knox lifted his finger and pointed upward and died. The poet wrote: “…the death angel left him, what time earth’s bonds wee riven, The cold, stark, stiffening finger still pointing up to heaven.” Museum of Childhood Is located at 42 High Street just below Knox House but on the opposite side of the road. Was built by Patrick Murray a city councillor who disliked children (told them he ate them for breakfast). Has old fashioned toys, medicines, school books and antique slot machines. Road Markers About half way down the Royal Mile the letter “S” is let into the road at intervals, marking the limit of sanctuary for debtors. Netherbow Is where the prison gate used to be where many Covenanters were imprisoned. It is at the intersection of High Street and St. Marys and the old prison has brass markers in the road showing where the entrance to this prison used to be. During the 17th century the heads of martyred Covenanters were at times hung on the gate of the Netherbow. Tron Church Is just a short distance down High Street from St. Giles on the same side of the street at 122 High Street. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 56.998’ W 03 11.262’ It is almost opposite Knox House. It was built between 1630 and 1641 for Presbyterians who left St. Giles Cathedral who resented the intrusion of the Bishop of Edinburgh. It was a principal parish church being used by nobility Here people meet to “bring in the New Year”. Its name comes from the 17th century term “tron” or weighing machine. If merchants were found to have dishonest weights they were nailed up by the ears. It ceased to be used as a church in 1952. Huntley House Is further down the street – the same side as St. Giles about opposite the Tolbooth – 142 Canongate. It is the Museum of Edinburgh. It has a copy of the National Covenant on a whole lamb’s skin parchment. The tombstone of James Epitaph Currie is here. He was a merchant of Loanhead subsequently imprisoned as a Covenanter who prepared his own tombstone but also erected the original Martyr’s Memorial in Greyfriars Churchyard. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page91 Hugh McKail was a famous Covenanter – his Bible is here but not usually on display. Also here are Roman coins, a Neolithic axe and a section commemorating Field Marshal Earl Haig the Commander-in-Chief of the British forces in World War i. Open Mon – Sat 1000 – 1800 hrs and Oct – May 1400 – 1700 hrs. Canongate Tolbooth Is situated on Canongate almost directly opposite Huntley House. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 57.110’ W 03 10.811’. It is easily recognisable by the round towers near the top of the building and the large clock over the street. It is now the Edinburgh City Museum – but once was a place for tolls as well as law courts and a prison. Many Covenanters were imprisoned here. Holyrood Palace Is at the lower end of the Royal Mile. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 57.160’ W 03 10.446’. It is the Queen’s official residence when in Edinburgh. Visitors are permitted if the Queen is not present. No photos are permitted inside. It was here on 9 March 1566 that the infamous murder of David Rizzo the Italian secretary to Queen Mary took place. He was believed by Protestants to have been an agent of the pope and was also resented by Lord Darnley, Mary’s husband. Holyrood Park Situated behind Holyrood Palace and extending up into the hills. Is a great place to stroll and see Edinburgh below you. Have good climbing footwear. Places of interest include Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags Grassmarket Is the wide street situated below the Castle to the west. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 56.872’ W 03 11.691’. It is almost below the steps which rise to the end of the Royal Mile and the Castle Forecourt. Here is the place where Covenanters were martyred between 1661 and 1688. A St. Andrews Cross marks the place and a list of names of those martyred here has been displayed. James Renwick born at Moniaive. He watched the execution of James Guthrie here and this gave him determination to serve his Lord. He became a great Covenanter preacher Rennie was the last of the Edinburgh martyrs in 1688 – aged just 26 years. Greyfriars Church and Churchyard Is situated where George IV Bridge – a road which intersects with High Street (the Royal Mile) before St. Giles Cathedral – joins Candlemaker Row. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 56.803’ W 03 11.493’. Note the bronze Greyfriar’s Bobby on the street posts, and Bobby’s Bar etc. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page92 Coming into the churchyard note the Covenanter’s Monument just inside the entrance., and also he monument or tombstone to Bobby. To the right inside the gate and going down the hill on the left is the grave of ‘Jock’ John Gray, where Greyfriar’s Bobby waited for his master. John Gray was buried here and his faithful dog stayed constantly on guard at the tomb waiting for his master. The Lord Provost Sir William Chambers paid for the dog licence for Bobby who won the hears of so many. A little further down on the right hand side – near the road – is a Martyr’s Memorial, commemorating those executed in the 1680’s, particularly noting the Maquis of Argyll – the first listed at the Grassmarket to James Renwick the last listed. In the southwest corner of the churchyard – at the back on the higher side is the Covenanter’s Prison. GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 56.767’ W 03 11.558’. 1200 Covenanters surrendered at the Battle of Bothwell Bridge 22 June 1679. They were stripped almost naked, tied two by two and ‘driven’ to Edinburgh. They were penned like cattle in this open-air prison, robbed of any possessions by the guards and exposed to a Scottish winter in the open air. After five months only 250 were left. Many of these were shipped as slaves to Barbados and then on the way many of them were shipwrecked. It is the church where the National Covenant was signed in 1638 by 3000 Presbyterians on the day called the ‘Great Marriage Day of this Nation with God’. Note the sign on the pulpit to this effect. Band of Scotland Building Is situated in George Street – 2 streets north of Princes Street It has the image of Scorpio from the Zodiac on the façade. Sir Walter Scott Statue Is situated in the main street of Edinburgh – Princes Street. The imposing monument has his dog and some characters from his novels depicted. Royal Scottish Museum Is situated in Chambers Street – turns off George IV Bridge near Greyfriars’s Kirk. Open Monday – Saturday 1000 – 1700 hrs and Sunday 1400 – 1700 hrs. The pulpit used by John Knox in St. Giles cathedral is here. Statue of John Knox It is in the courtyard of the New College – Faculty of Divinity in Mound Place – just south of The Mound and south of Princes Street. Robert Burns Monument From the Tolbooth Wynd – a little west of Canongate Church a path leads to this 19th century monument of Scotland’s favourite poet. Nelson Monument Is situated on Calton Hill a little to the east of the city, along with the Observatory and National Monument. A great panorama of the city is had from this hill. Nelson’s Monument was built in 1816 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page93 There is also here an incomplete replica of the twelve gigantic columns of the Parthenon in Athens. TRIP 13 NORTH FROM EDINBURGH QUEENSFERRY As you travel north note the Forth Rail Bridge – a 19th century engineering wonder. LINLITHGOW Is situated about 27 km west of Edinburgh. Travelling west along the southern shore of Linlithgow Loch is a ruined palace seen across the lake. The Linlithgow Palace, now a picturesque ruin, dates to 1425 when James I of Scotland began a new castle after a fire in the previous castle. The fountain in the courtyard (now restored) was a gift from James II to his wife Mary of Guise. It was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots in 1542. It was visited by Charles I and also by Cromwell. Next to the palace is the Church of St. Michael – one of Scotland’s largest preReformation Churches. BONNYBRIDGE It is situated about 2 km south of the M876 south of Denny on the B816. Here the Antoinnine Wall is a turf wall built by the Romans to mark their northernmost boundary. STIRLING Situated on the River Forth some 5 km north of the junction of the M80 and the M9. Seven battle sites are within sight of Stirling showing its strategic importance. Note the Wallace monument over the River Forth with its 66 m tower – built on Abbey Craig recalling William Wallace’s victory over the English here in 1297 AD. The Church of the Holy Rude Is situated on Castle Wynd. A monument to James Guthrie is behind the church. Inside the pulpit used by Guthrie is still used. There are several other items here that were associated with Guthrie. In the cemetery beside the church are monuments to the Wigtown martyrs, James Renwick, James Guthrie, John Knox and others. Mar’s Walk was a palace never completed and destroyed by the Jacobites in 1746. Stirling Castle Was once the most important strategic fortification in Scotland. See the views from its battlements. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page94 The castle was built in the 16th century to keep Mary Queen of Scots safe from Henry VIII. James VI of Scotland (James I of England) and of KJV fame was christened here as an infant in 1567. There is a statue of Wallace (of Brave Heart fame) before the entrance to the castle, and a statue of Robert the Bruce. BANNOCKBURN Is situated about 3 km southwest of Stirling and just west of the M9. The Bannockburn Heritage Centre tells the story. A huge flagpole marks the site of the battle where Robert the Bruce defeated the English in 1314. Note also the statue of Robert the Bruce. KINROSS Is about 50 km east of Stirling. Mary Queen of Scots made here her famous escape from the castle on an island in the loch. Note the iron ‘jougs’ or collars attached to the cross, which were used to restrain criminals. SECRET BUNKER Is situated some 9 or 10 km south east from St. Andrews. Proceed on the B9131 from St Andrews towards Anstruther to the intersection with the B940 and turn east on the B940 towards Crail. About 2 km along the road the Secret Bunker is on the right. During the Cold War after World War II, it served as a possible command post should a nuclear war have developed. There are two levels of bunkers, cinemas, cafed and sleeping quarters some 30 m below ground level and with 5 m of reinforced concrete above. It is open 1 April until 31 October from 1000 hrs to 1700 hrs. ST ANDREWS Is located on the East Coast of Scotland between the Firths of Tay and Forth. The largest church in Scotland before the Reformation was here – founded in 1160. It was also a centre for large numbers of pilgrims. The West Sands beach was used for filming some of “Chariots of Fire”. Martyr’s Church is located on North Street almost opposite St. Salvator’s Chapel Other interesting streets names after the Covenanters etc are “Guthrie Place, ”Mercat Wynd”, and “Greyfriars Gardens” which are off Market Street. It is the home of golf. The original course is famous as Mary Queen of Scots played here – and almost immediately after the murder of her husband Lord Darnley. The Great Cathedral It was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. It was the church centre of the country before the Reformation. It is believed that between 573 and 600, Regulus, a Columban missionary commenced Christian worship here. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page95 Many pilgrims came because of the relics of Andrew the disciple – Scotland’s patron saint. In the grounds is the grave of Samuel Rutherford – known as the “Saint of the Covenant” for displaying the loveliness of Christ. He was called to the Chair of Divinity at St. Andrews University. St. Rule’s Tower Is located beside the ruined Cathedral near the harbour. This tower is all that is left of the first church of the Augustinian priory. A climb to the top gives great panoramic views. St. Andrews Castle Is situated beside the sea – virtually across the road from the University and a little north of the Cathedral ruins. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 56 20.525’ W 02 47.485’. The Castle of St. Andrews dates back to the 12th century. The control of the castle seesawed between the English and the Scots during the 14th century until 1337 when the Scots regained possession and destroyed it. The Castle was rebuilt by Archbishop John Hamilton. He was hanged in Stirling in 1571, being implicated in the murders of Lord Darnley and the Earl of Moray. Bishop Trail rebuilt it by the end of the 14th century – it became the seat of bishops as well as a fortress. In 1521 Cardinal James Beaton became the leader of the church at St. Andrews. In 1538 his nephew David Beaton succeeded him as archbishop of St. Andrews and also became a cardinal. In March 1546, Beaton burnt the Protestant preacher George Wishart in front of the castle walls (his initials GW are featured in the roadway). John Knox witnessed the event which changed his life (life Paul at Stephen’s martyrdom). In May 1546 some enemies gained access to the Castle and murdered Beaton – hanging his body from the castle walls. John Knox joined the Protestants in the Castle in 1547, but all were soon captured by the French. Knox spent about 18 months as a galley slave of the French. During the siege of 1546-1547, mines and countermines were dug near and under the castle. These were rediscovered in 1879 and may be visited today. See the “Bottle Dungeon” in the castle grounds near the wall on the seaside. Knox said, “Many of God’s children were imprisoned there”. A must see is the excellent static display in the entrance building to the castle – situated on the street named “The Scores”. St. Salvator’s Chapel Is on the north side of North Street – about mid-way along the street. The University Chapel has the pulpit used by John Knox at the Kirk of the Holy Trinity. Outside St. Salvator’s the letters PH in the road mark the martyrdom site of Patrick Hamilton. While enduring protracted and excruciating agonies in the martyr’s fire he cried out, “How long O God shall darkness cover this kingdom? How long wilt Thou suffer this tyranny of men?” Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page96 The Kirk of the Holy Trinity Is the town kirk located on South Street beside Church Square and between the Square and Church Street. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 56 20.367’ W 02 47.749’. This is the church where John Knox preached his first sermon in 1547. The topic was Daniel 7 and resulted in Protestants beginning to drive out Catholicism. John Knox also catechised his students here – and was probably heard by many others. There is a plaque to John Knox in the church in the entrance foyer noting his call to ministry. Knox also preached on the 11th June 1559 – his topic – the Lord’s ejection of the buyers and sellers in the temple – and thus inaugurated the Reformation in Scotland. The chancel is paved with marble which came from Iona – not far from where Columba landed. The base of the pulpit is also marble from Iona. The pulpit of the day is in St. Salvator’s Chapel – two blocks away on North Street. The Martyr’s Monument Is situated on the grassy headland directly opposite the famous golf links. It mentions many of the Scottish martyrs who died for their faith including George Wishart and Patrick Hamilton. It also mentions Henry Forrest a Benedictine friar who spoke respectfully of Patrick Hamilton. While the friar to whom he confessed said “the smoke of Patrick Hamilton hath infected all those on whom it blew” and recommended Forrest be burnt in private so as not affect others; accordingly he was burnt in a cellar and probably suffocated to death with the smoke. Also mentioned is the last person who suffered martyrdom in Scotland (under Queen Mary) a Walter Mill who was burnt in Edinburgh in 1558. He had travelled through Europe and Germany in particular. He was made a priest at Lunan but accused of heresy he fled but was soon caught and imprisoned. Sir Andrew Oliphant questioned him about recanting, but he said, “he would sooner forfeit ten thousand lives, than relinquish a particle of heavenly principles he had received from the suffrages of his blessed Redeemer”. Magus Moor Is about 5 km outside of St Andrews near Strathkinness – west of St Andrews, in Fifeshire. Here Archbishop Sharp was assassinated on 03 May 1679 by the group led by David Hackston and James Balfour. There is a cairn of stones marking the spot where some Covenanters assassinated Sharp for his killing Covenanters. Later in November David Hackston and five other covenanters – who had nothing to do with the murder - were hanged. SEE APPENDIX 27 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE WISHART SEE APPENDIX 28 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF PATRICK HAMILTON Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page97 ABERNETHY Is located on the A913 about 40 km west of St. Andrews and 12 km southeast of Perth. The GPS co-ordinates are N 56 19.976’ W 03 18.701’. The Round Tower is 22.5 m high (72 ft) and dates at least to the 12th century. It is situated in the centre of the village. The key to the tower is available from the tearooms opposite or if closed from the Tower Bakery. A Pictish Stone stands by the gate into St. Bridge’s Kirkyard and is older than the tower. It was moved to the present location comparatively recently. Abernethy was a place of importance in the Pictish Kingdom between the 5th and the 11th centuries. Walter Bower, an Augustinian Abbot of Inchcolm writing in the 1440’s, records Abernethy as the Pictish capital and an important Christian centre. Bede wrote that the Picts had become Christians by the preaching of Ninian (d. 432). Without doubt, Abernethy was a centre of the Celtic Church initiated by Ninian at Whithorn and by Columba of Iona. A Celtic monastery had been located beside the Tower. Malcolm III of Scotland and William the Conqueror met and made a treaty at Abernethy in 1071. A book dealing with the history of the Round Tower and somewhat of the Celtic Church is available at the tearooms beside the tower or from Scottish Heritage at 11 Coupar Angus Road, Newtyle. PERTH Is situated some 45 km northeast from Stirling on the A9. It was once the capital of Scotland. John Knox preached a fiery sermon on ‘idolatry’ at the Church of St. John (founded in 1126). This sermon led to the destruction of many monasteries. Perth was the scene for Scotland’s first martyr. It was that of John Resby, a Lollard preacher who came to Scotland. In 1407 he was summoned to appear before a Council of Clergy, accused of 40heresies – centring on his denial of the authority of the pope. Laurence of Lindores was the Inquisitor for Scotland and presided (He was also one of the founders of St. Andrews University). Resby was burnt with ‘indecent haste’ along with some of the books he had written. On 25 January 1544 six Christians were martyred including a Robert Lamb a city merchant who interrupted the friar in his sermon saying that the Scriptures were the ultimate authority. A plaque notes that the place was near the Franciscan or Grey Friars monastery. Cardinal Beaton watched from the Spey (Spy) Tower. Lamb’s wife asked to be permitted to die with her husband – a request refused so she attended and exhorted him to be faithful, holding her young baby. Lamb at the foot of the ladder to his hanging exhorted the people to fear God and forsake the leaven of popish abominations. One of the six was Helen Stark who was taken to the river. She gave her young baby to a pitying neighbour, and was then bound hand and foot into a sack and dropped into the river. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page98 Isobel Allison - a young woman in her twenties from Perth - was taken to Edinburgh in 1681 on the charges of listening to the Covenanter preachers Donald Cargill and Richard Cameron. She was martyred by hanging in the Grassmarket on 20 January 1681 along with Marion Harvie who was 20 years of age and came from Linlithgowshire. SCONE Is located some 3 km northeast from Perth. An Abbey here was destroyed in 1559 by Knox’s followers. Scone Palace was built on the site of the Old Abbey. The Stone of Scone – the Stone of Destiny (said to be Jacob’s pillow) was kept here for centuries until stolen by the English – now in Edinburgh. This was the ancient coronation site for the King of Scots. CRIEFF Is situated some 25 km west of Perth along the A85. Is a very interesting place. The SDA Church operates a Health & Fitness centre “Roundlewood” at Drummond Terrace. Visit the Knock of Crieff to the north of the town for great views. KILLIN It is situated just off the road to Oban by 3 or 4 km. The Falls of Dochart are here – very picturesque – and some great tourist shops. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 56 27.768’ W 04 19.201’. FORTINGALL Situated about 12 km west of Aberfeldy, north of Crieff on the A847, then west on the B846 to Cashieville then through Keltneyburn. The local legend has it that Pontius Pilate was born here when his father was serving with the legions of Rome. There is a Yew tree here over 3000 years old. MEIGLE Situated about 30 km northeast from Perth on the A94. Here is one of the more significant collections of Pictish and Celtic carved stones and crosses. They are an interesting combination of Christian and pagan symbols. GLAMIS CASTLE Is about 10 km from Meigle using the A94. Glamis is just to the north of the A94, and Glamis Castle a little further to the north on Dean Water. This was the birthplace of Princess Margaret and the childhood home of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother. Duncan’s Hall was used as the setting for the murder of the king in Shakespeare’s “Macbeth”. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page99 ABERLEMNO Is situated some 10km from Forfar. Continue from Glamis on the A94 to Forfar then take the B9134. At the beginning of the village the church is down a lane on the right. A Pictish stone is beside the church (in the cemetery). It has a cross on one side and a battle scene on the reverse. The church has part of its building dating to pre-Reformation times (at least 400 years old). Note the Baptismal Font in the Kirkyears (formerly the manse garden). The windows in the east and west ends of the church were once doorways used by the priest and congregation (pre-Reformation). The church was then rectangular in shape. The Presbyterians added the extension to make it a T shape and placed the pulpit in the centre (to avoid contamination with popish rituals). A stone in the north wall has a date 1604 and initials “JB and “EM” – stands for James Beaton (grandson of Cardinal Beaton and Elizabeth Menzies, his wife. It came from Melgund Castle 3 km away – one of Cardinal Beaton’s palaces. BRECHIN Is about 9 km from Aberlemno further along the B9134. Next to the church on the southern side of the road is a Round Tower of Celtic architecture – the remnant of a college from about 1000AD. DUNOTTAR CASTLE Is situated on a spectacular isolated headland about 4 km south of Stonehaven. It was used to hide the Scottish Crown jewels and Regalia in 1651-52 during the time of Cromwell. Also note the chapel site – originally a Christian church established by Ninian. The ravine by which the path approaches the castle is called St. Ninian’s Den and St. Ninian’s Well is nearby. At the end of the 14th century, Sir William Keith had possession of Dunottar. He had proceeded to build a castle. The place, because a church was there before, was regarded as ’holy’ and the Bishop of St. Andrews excommunicated the Knight. Sir William Keith appealed to Pope Benedict XIII at Avignon in 1395, who ordered a full inquiry and if he paid due recompense the excommunication be withdrawn. The Whig’s Vault Noted mostly as the tragic site where many Covenanters were incarcerated. It is a cavern about 17 m x 5m x about 3.5m high. In 1685, 184 prisoners were marched from the Tolbooth of Canongate and High Street in Edinburgh to Leith, then brought by open boat to Burntisland, then marched to Dunottar arriving on 24 May. Only 167 survived the march including 45 women. No light (not even candles) were given. They were charged for their meagre food and even water. Some 40 were later transferred to a vault under the Whig’s Vault. Some were tortured. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page100 Cut in the stone walls are a number of horizontal niches taller than any man. The hands of the prisoners were forced in with their bodies hanging from their hands. Upon recapture, any escapees were tortured with match burns between their fingers. A gravestone on the east side of the church, 60cm high and 75 cm wide mentions James Scott, James Aitchison, James Russell, William Brown and three unknown. The Covenanters were marched south again on 24 July – given the oath of Allegiance or banished. Two –John Fraser and Jean Moffat –, who met there, married afterwards. He became a minister at Glencourse in Midlothian in 1687. BALMORAL Is just off the A93 a few km east of Braeman. It is the Queen’s castle in Scotland. PICTISH STONE CIRCLES Situated on each side of the A96. The first about 5 km west of Inverurie, the other about 9km north of Inverurie off the B9001 near Daviot. Each circle has 10 or 11 stones each 1 to 1.5 m high. FORRES Is situated about 30 km from Inverness travelling on the A96 from Aberdeen. It is near Findhorn Bay on Moray Firth. In the museum is a famous collection of fossils. Sueno’s Stone is a 6m high stele dating from a battle in 1008. The stone is just off Victoria Road – the southern bypass for the town at its eastern end. The Witches Stone is in Victoria Street on the edge of the footpath outside the Police Station (about 400 m from Sueno’s Stone). While one account credits the site to three women killing King Duffus in 95 AD, the account on the Tourist Information Sign in Grant Park (9 Victoria Road) indicates that three witches were placed in barrels, spikes driven through the barrels, and then rolled down the hill. Where the barrels came to rest the mangled remains of he witches were burnt. At the site outside the Police Station, the notice says the stone could have been used for sun worship. Another stone for a similar burning is in Grant’s Park, just inside the railing (400 m towards town from the Police Station). CAWDOR Is situated about 10 km southwest of Forres. The castle here is the home of Shakespeare’s Macbeth. CULLODEN Is about 10 km southwest of Cawdor. Is a very historic place for Scots. The power of the Highlanders was broken and the Protestant George was established on the throne instead of the Catholic Stewarts. The historic battle was fought 16 April 1746 (the last battle on British soil). Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page101 Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobite cause was defeated. See the audiovisual displays in the visitor centre. INVERNESS Is situated at the end of Moray Firth on the River Ness which drains Loch Ness. The Caledonian Canal has been built to allow access to the lakes. The Boar Stone is now on display in the Highland Regional Office in Glenurquhart Road (A82) in the southwestern area of Inverness. Craig Phadraig is a vitrified fort where St. Columba converted King Brude in 565. It is situated about 5 km to the south near Craig Phadraig Hospital. Take the walking trail to the top of the hill – about 600 m. The old fort has nothing now but raised sides of earth on the hilltop. LOCH NESS Travel from Inverness south on the A82. The road skirts the northern side of the lake. Watch for the monster! St. Columba is supposed to have rebuked a monster in this loch which was on the point of killing a man. GLEN MORISTON Turn off the A82 at Invermoriston and use the A887. Travel exactly 12.5 km (7.8 miles) past the dam, an old church is on the right and a Teahouse. The road then gets narrower. A small gate on the northern side of the road (right-hand side) leads to a cairn of stones, which marks the place where Finlay Munro in 1827 preached. He used the cairn of stones as a pulpit and proclaimed the soon coming of Jesus. When scoffed at, he declared the grass would never grow in his footprints (where he stood). Today the cairn of stones marks the place and the story is known locally regarding the footprints. FORT WILLIAM Is situated on the A82 on Loch Linnhe an arm of the sea and at the southern end of the Caledonian Canal. GLEN COE Travel does the A82 to Fort William and then on to Glen Coe. The visitor centre is about 4 km through the town. It has a 14-minute video on the history of Glen Coe. Here Mundus, an Irish disciple of Columba came from Iona to an island. Eileen Munde (Island of Mundus) was the religious centre of the region and burial ground. The Glencoe McDonalds were the enemies of the Campbells. The McDonalds were seen as highland freelances, cattle thieves and answerable to no one but their chief. At Inverary, The Campbell Lord had been made the keeper of the peace and magistrate by the authorities. Here at times some McDonalds were tried for their Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page102 anti-social offences. This generated further enmity between the McDonalds and the Campbells. William and Mary the regents of Great Britain had given the Highland chiefs a set time to swear loyalty and allegiance. Hoping for support from overseas for their cause many highland chiefs waited until the last moment to submit themselves. The leader of the Glen Coe McDonald clan was made to wait in winter at Inverary until the time was past and he was five days late. The king’s advisers with the king’s blessing decided to make the Glen Coe McDonalds a lesson to the rest of the country and free the land of thievery at the same time. After giving accommodation and meals to the 130 soldiers (led by Captain Robert Campbell) for around ten days, the McDonalds were massacred at 5.00 am on the morning of 13 February 1692 as they slept. The signal for the massacre was given from Signal Rock – an easy walk from the Visitor Centre. The story shows the height of perfidy and treachery. BALQUHIDDER Is located the eastern end of Loch Voil. Take the side road from Kingshouse Hotel on the A84 (about 3 km south of the A85). Robert Macgregor – known as ‘Rob Roy’ is the Scottish equivalent of the Englsih Robin Hood. He grew up around Loch Arklet – which is a small loch between Loch Lomond and Loch Katerine. He joined the Jacobites. He would plunder the lands and herds of the Duke of Montrose to the south. For a time he occupied the Falkland Palace in Fife. He is immortalised in Sir Walter’s Scott’s novel “Rob Roy” He was given a pardon in 1725 and lived in Balquhidder His grave is there at Balquhidder – at the eastern end of Loch Voil OBAN Is situated on the western coast of Scotland on the Firth of Lorne. It is approximately 150 km west of Perth and 150 km northwest of Glasgow. A fantastic view of the Argyll coast is seen from here. It is a ferry port for visits to Mull, Iona, Staffa and the Western Isles. High above the town is McCaig’s Tower – an unfinished imitation of the Colosseum of Rome and sometimes c alled McCaig’s Folly. Take the 10 – 15 minutes to climb from up from the centre of the town for a grand view of the harbour and town. Another vantage point to see the town is Pulpit Hill just above and south of the main ferry terminal. For accommodation – the Columba Hotel on the waterfront is a 3/4 star hotel and has good meals – or Strathnaver Guest House on Dunollie Road (Ph +44 (01631 563305) is just a short walk along the main road north. MULL Is the island situated offshore from Oban. Take the ferry from Oban to Craignure. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page103 The Isle of Mull is the country of Alan Brack and David in “Kidnapped” by Robert Louis Stevenson. Stevenson lived with his father on the island of Erraid just off the southwest corner of Mull. In “Kidnapped”, the hero David Balfour is released from his captivity when the ship “Covenant” founders on the Torran Rocks and he swims ashore. Graline, on the southern side of the narrow isthmus of Mull, is the huge mausoleum of Lachlan Macquarie, the Governor of New South Wales early in the 19th century. From Craignure, Torosay Castle with its gardens is not far away. Duart Castle is a little further east on a promontory. It is the home of the chief of Clan Maclean. Prisoners from a Spanish Armada galleon which was sunk by Donald Maclean in 1588, were kept in the Castle’s dungeon. It is one of the oldest inhabited castles of Scotland. Visitors to Iona and Staffa take the bus from Craignure across the island to Fionnphort. IONA Iona is an island of the Inner Hebrides across a narrow strait from Mull Island. If travelling from Oban it is best to book a passage on the early ferry to Craignure. The bus then takes passengers for Iona across the length of Mull to Fionnphort. Then there is a very short ferry ride to Iona. Buy a guidebook to Iona. There are ruins galore – stone crosses, carved stones and a restored cathedral. Columba came here 563 AD and made it his base for 34 years. Columba landed at the Port of the Coracle with 12 friends. This small bay is on the southern coast of the island. See a map or a Guidebook for directions. Some 50 Scottish kings up to the 11th century, including Duncan – slain by Macbeth, are buried here. The tombs of the kings (Reilig or Gran Odhraia) are located between the ferry landing and the cathedral. Four Irish and seven Norwegian Kings are also buried here. Note the Celtic crosses in the graveyard. Iona has been called the “Cradle of the Celtic Kingdom” and was a site for pilgrimage through the centuries. The Cathedral has been restored but shows much of its Celtic background. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 56 20.101’ W 06 23.522’. Some early Christian stonework may be in Columba’s shrine. The Nunnery was founded around 1200 AD by the son of Somerland, Lord of the isles. It is located just up the road from the ferry above the shops, and is one of the best preserved examples in Britain of a medieval monastery. Climb the hill called Dun 1, 101 m high (332 ft) – a good view over the island. The hermit’s cell is on the southern slope of Dun 1. Machair is a sandy plain across the island to the west from the settlement. On the way is the Hill of the Angels. Martyr’s Bay, just south of the ferry landing is where Iona’s monks were slaughtered by the Vikings or Norsemen (who came after 793 AD). The island has a lake in the southern area called Loch Staonaig. A marble quarry – now disused – is on the southeast coast – not too far from the bay where Columba landed. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page104 There are two caves on the east coast – both north of the marble quarry – Pigeon’s Cave and Otter’s Cave. On the southwest coast there is the Spouting Cave. Iona became a centre of Christianity from which missionaries travelled over Scotland and England. Accommodation is available on Iona – St. Columba Hotel (Ph 06817 304/305) or the Argyll Hotel (Ph 06817 334). SEE APPENDIX 29 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF COLUMBA SEE APPENDIX 30 FOR POEMS ON IONA STAFFA Is an island some 12 km north of Iona. A ferry ticket may be purchased to both Iona and Staffa from Fionnphort. The combination ticket leaves considerably less time on Iona, and passengers after seeing Fingal Cave on Staffa wander over the bare island for an hour or so. Here is the famous Fingal’s Cave (one of the wonders of the world) and the Causeway – or a continuation of the Giant’s Causeway from Ireland – vertical hexagonal basalt forms. Mendelssohn’s ‘overture to the Hebrides” was inspired by the sounds of the sea in the cave. The Colonnade, or Great Face, is over 20 m high and the cave stretches 80 m into the island. CAMPBELTOWN Situated about 160 km south of Oban, Campbeltown is on the southern end of Kintyre Peninsula. On the way you may see Maelrubha’s Chapel and the Whirlpool of Corryvreckan braved by Columba in a coracle to bring aid to a sick village. In Kilmore are interesting Celtic crosses and gravestones in the chapel. At Campbeltown the prints on a rock to the south of the town are said to be Columba’s footprints. He wanted to settle here but vowed to be out of sight of Ireland and moved to Iona. INVERARAY Is situated almost at the head of Loch Fyne – a long arm of the sea. From Oban take the A85 and turn off to the right on the A819 which leads right to the village. As you travel over the bridge as you leave the village, the Castle Inveraray is up along the river to the left. Inveraray Castle is a Gothic castle of the Campbell Clan. It was built for the Dukes of Argyll in 1745 on the site of a former castle. LOCH LOMOND Loch Lomond is a beautiful fresh water lake – the subject of song and poem, and Scotland’s best loved lake. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page105 It is the largest body of fresh water in the British Isles being 35 km long and 8 km wide at its widest point. In the northern parts the lake is very narrow and the hills and mountains are very steep to the lakeside often with mountains rising to between 900 to 1000 m or more. LUSS Is a delightful village on the western shore of Loch Lomond in the southern portion of the lake where the high mountains have been left behind and the country is more gently sloped. Luss is a tourist stop for coaches and the village has absolutely stunning gardens. Take a stroll from the car park through the village to the lake. Some of the stores have great ideas to tempt the tourist. GLASGOW Is situated on the River Clyde some 75 km west of Edinburgh. If travelling from Oban, come via Inveraray and Loch Lomond. Legend says that St. Mungo (or Kentigern) the Celtic missionary of the 6th century placed the body of a holy man on a cart pulled by two wild bulls. They stopped in the “dear green place” which is the meaning of the word Glasgow. At that site the Cathedral of Glasgow was built. The cathedral was one of the very few cathedrals to escape destruction during the Scottish Reformation by adapting to Protestant worship. St. Mungo’s tomb is in the crypt. A Memorial to Covenanter Martyrs is on the north wall of the cathedral. Though saved from destruction, it was thoroughly purged of idolatry by the Presbyterians. Bladder Aisle is reputedly built over a cemetery blessed by St. Ninian. The St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Antiquities is near the cathedral. The “Tenement House” at 145 Buccleuch St shows life as it was at the end of the 19th century and the first decades of the 20th century. In Queen’s Park is a memorial to the Battle of Langside which ended the reign of Mary Queen of Scots. TRIP 14 SOUTH FROM EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW SOUTH FROM EDINBURGH OLD PENTLAND CHURCHYARD Travelling south from Edinburgh take the A702 to Hillend. Immediately before the A703 turn off, take the small side road on the left to Pentland. The cemetery (no church today) is 1.3 km along this road on the left-hand side. The gravestone of Beatrice Umpherston is a combined one near the old building. When aged 10 she, with other girls, drew up a ”Children’s Bond” or “Covenant” in 1683. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page106 “This is a covenant between the Lord and us to give up ourselves freely to Him, without reserve, soul and body, hearts and affections, to be His children”. Beatrice’s mother married a second time to James Currie, merchant in Loanhead, who was subsequently imprisoned as a Covenanter. He was known as James Epitaph Currie because he prepared his own tombstone (now in Huntly House Museum, Edinburgh). He also erected the original Monument in Greyfriars Churchyard. RULLION GREEN Travelling south from Edinburgh, about 10 km out is Hillend by the A720 ringroad. Travel south on the A702 for 5.6 km – a narrow bitumen road runs off to the right. Follow this road for about 300 m. There is a small cottage with a gate across the road. This is Rullion Green Battlefield. The Covenanters had marched from Lanark under Dalzell. Two hundred deserted – the others were soaked by heavy rain during the night, and Edinburgh instead of being ready to welcome them as supposed was defending itself. The 900 remaining faced 3000 of the king’s forces and while they had the vantage ground were overwhelmed by sheer numbers. The monument is up in the trees up on the hill to the left of the house (about 600 m). Here 50 Covenanters were killed and around 80 taken prisoner. BIGGAR Is situated on the A702 in the Clyde Valley some 50 km or so from Edinburgh. The story of the Covenanters is portrayed in the Greenhill Covenanter’s House (Open April – Oct 1400 – 1700 hrs or by arrangement). Boghall Castle (down Station road is the ruined castle where many Covenanter gatherings were held. SOUTH FROM GLASGOW BOTHWELL BRIDGE Is situated just off the M74 – take Exit 5 to Bothwell and Blantyre –under the M74 and through the roundabout and up the hill – park before the top of the hill. Its GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 47.795’ W 04 03.504’. The memorial is on the north bank of the Clyde in gardens etc just beside the road – a little below the roundabout. Here on 22 June 1679, the Covenanters suffered their most disastrous defeat. 400 or more were killed and 1200 taken prisoner, thence to be marched to the Covenanter’s Prison in Greyfriars churchyard where they were imprisoned in the open – through winter. HAMILTON Is situated immediately south of Bothwell Bridge. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page107 Over the bridge and in Muir Street on the left is the Caledonian Museum beside the Burgh Museum. It shows the history of the Regiment descended from the Covenanters. Just a street away note the plaque on Cadzow Street Bridge to the 1650 Battle of Heiton, when Covenanters unsuccessfully attacked Cromwell’s Roundheads under General Lambert. On the east wall of the Old Parish Church is a memorial called the Heads Memorial. It is on the Leechlee Road side and four heads are shown – depicting four local Covenanters – John Parker, Gavin Hamilton, James Hamilton and Christopher Strang – who were beheaded 7 December 1666 after the Pentland Rising. Their heads were brought to Hamilton. BLANTYRE Is situated on the south bank of the Clyde across from Bothwell. Access by vehicle is across the bridge and keep turning right – quite a way around. Here is the home of David Livingstone. He was born here 19 March 1813. The GPS co-ordinates of the Museum/Tenement are: N 55 48.137’ W 04 05.036’. The tenement is now a museum and is well worth visiting. Note the commitment Livingstone manifested to his task through his lifetime until his death in 1873. Some of Livingstone’s forbears were Covenanters. The African Pavilion is Open April to September Mon – Sat 100 – 1800 hrs and Sun 1400 – 1800 hrs. SEE APPENDIX 31 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE MOTHERWELL Is located about 15 km southeast from Glasgow on the A 723. 3 km northeast of Motherwell is Carfin Grotto. This is a replica of the Lourdes Grotto – built in the 1920’s by out-of-work miners and has become a minor site for pilgrims. LANARK Lanark is situated about 40 km southeast from Glasgow using the A72 from Exit 7 on the M74; or taking the A8 east and at Exit 6 take the A73. At the foot of High Street there is a monument to William Wallace. Here in the 17th century stood a Mercat Cross. In 1666, 3000 declared their allegiance to the Covenant. On 12 January the Covenanters affixed to the Cross of Lanark a confirmation of the Sanquhar Testimony and burnt the Test and Act of Secession. Nearby on the southern side of High Street was the Tolbooth – now Drummonds – where parts of bodies of executed Covenanters were displayed. In the cemetery of St. Mary’s churchyard (opposite the Auction Market in Hyndford Road which leads to the M74 and Biggar- there is a tall monument to the Covenanters of Lanark. Note the inscriptions on each side. In St. Kentigern’s churchyard (adjacent to St. Mary’s) on the southeast side, there is a stone 60 cm high and 50 cm wide to William Hervs (or Harvey) who suffered at the Cross of Lanark in March 1682 – being accused of being at Bothwell. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page108 LESMAHAGOW Travel southwest from Lanark on the A72 and the B7018 and cross over the M74. Here about 10 km from Lanark in the cemetery by the church are memorials to Archibald Stewart executed in 1684 (red granite stone) and also a slab stone to David Steel. See the old priory ruins on the other side of the church. Monument to David Steel Take the New Trows Road from the church in Lesmahagow. Ignore the first sign to Strathaven and Waterside. After 3 km from the church take the road to the right which indicates Strathaven. After 1.5 km over a crossroad and almost 6 km out, take the unpaved road up the hill. The monument is near the farm buildings at the top of the hill. (Nether Skelly Hill Farm). Here David Steel was executed for his faith. STRATHAVEN Pronounced (‘Straven’), it is situated at the junction of the A71 and the A723 and the A725 on the River Avon. The James Hastie Museum, once home to the Earls of Douglas and later the Dukes of Hamilton, was often a place where Covenanters frequented. It is closed for safety reasons. Drumclog is to the west of the town. DRUMCLOG Is located between Strathaven and Darvel on the A71. A monument is located just over 1 km northwest of the village. In 1679 the Covenanters were victorious here. The schoolhouse east of the monument has an inscription detailing the Covenanters killed and where they are buried. IRONGRAY CHURCHYARD See nearby the graves of two Covenanter martyrs with an old inscription. Here in this churchyard, 200 Covenanters met and slept in the snow before marching to the Battle of Rullion Green in the Pentland Hills in November 1666. They gathered here because the soldiers at Dalry were threatening to roast an old Covenanter farmer on a spit. FENWICK Is situated about 7 km northeast of Kilmarnock along the A77; or about 18 km northwest of Darvel (west along the A71, then north on the A77). Famous martyr graves are found in the churchyard. One inscription is about a James White whose head was cut off and used as a football by the soldiers. Most Covenanter graves are marked – eg John Fergushill, George Woodburn, Peter Gemmel etc. The grave of Captain Paton is also here, as is John Howie’s father – James Howie. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page109 LOCHGOIN FARM Take the A77 for about 4 km northeast from Fenwick. Then take the B764 to the right. After about 1 km take the private road to the right – it leads to Lochgoin Farm. The museum is open when the caretakers or tenants are home. This area of the Howie family was a shelter for Covenanters and used for conventicles. The Museum has the drum, sword and Bible of Captain Paton (monument in Fenwick churchyard). The monument on the hill just before the farmhouse is to J. Howie of “Scots Worthies” fame. DOUGLAS Coming from Glasgow on the M74 (same as A74), Douglas is 3 km along the A70. If coming from Glasgow direction on the M74 it will be necessary to take Exit 11 and drive parallel with the M74 for about 2 km, as Exit 12 has no exit in a southerly direction. A monument to James Gavin is down the first street on the right, opposite a small supermarket. James Gavin lived and worked in this town as a tailor. In 1684, because of his involvement with the Covenanter cause, his ears were cut off with his own shears, and he was banished to Barbados as a slave. The Tower of Old St. Bride’s Church has the oldest working clock in Scotland – gifted by Mary Queen of Scots in 1585. MUIRKIRK Is situated about 16 km west of Douglas on the A 70. In the churchyard (on the B743 going north) is a monument to Covenanter martyrs including John Brown of Priesthill. PRIESTHILL Take the B743 for 2.8 km north from Muirkirk towards Strathaven. At this point on the left hand side of the road is a farm named “: Linburn”. Take the unnamed road on the right directly opposite for 2.8 km to the farmhouse. Cars must be left here. The monument and place of John Brown’s shooting (while not a minister he often carried messages for the Covenanters) is about 1.5 km walk across the moors in an east-northeast direction. It can be quite wet and muddy. John Brown was married to Isabel Weir in 1682 by Alexander Peden – the famous Covenanter minister. After the ceremony he said, “Isabel, you have gotten a good man, but you will not enjoy him long”. Three years later he was shot in front of his wife and children by Graham of Claverhouse. The story of John Brown (and his Glasgow Crusade) was used by Dr. Billy Graham in his film “Fire on the Heather”. AIRDS MOSS OR AYRS MOSS Is just 4.5 km west from Muirkirk on the A70. The monument and grave of Richard Cameron can be seen across the paddocks about 500 m on the right. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page110 About 30 Covenanters were surprised here on 20 July 1680 by a party of Dragoons numbering about 112. Eight others besides Cameron were killed here. Cameron had his head and hands removed after his death. Another Hackston of Rathillet was hanged drawn and quartered ten days later, while three others were executed at Edinburgh. SEE APPENDIX 32 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF RICHARD CAMERON CUMNOCK Situated on the A70 near the junction with the A76 – some 16 km southwest of Muirkirk. Coming into Cumnock, the cemetery is on the right hand side. The stone and monument to Alexander Peden are visible from the road. He was ejected from his pulpit at Glenluce suffering much through wandering through the hills and mosses. He died from these privations 26 January 1685. He was known for his prophecies as well as his Covenant preaching. He was buried in the private aisle at Auchenleck some 3 km to the north, Some six to eight weeks after burial, soldiers dug up the body and put it on the gallows at Cumnock, where his ashes were finally buried. The graves of Simon Paterson and David Dun hanged at Cumnock are here as well as that of Thomas Richard who was shot by Captain Douglas in 1685. KNOWESIDE Knoweside is south of Ayr and south of Dunure on the A719, near the western coast of Scotland. Here is the famous Electric Brae where looks are deceiving and the top of the hill is five metres lower than the bottom. SANDQUHAR Is situated about 28 km from Cumnock on the A76. Here in the main street is a monument. The Sandquhar Declaration was made on 22 June 1680 – the anniversary of Bothwell Bridge. Richard Cameron (known as the firebrand Covenanter) and a group of Covenanters on horseback, rode into the town, sang a psalm, proclaimed the declaration and affixed it to the Mercat Cross. In the Declaration he attacks the king – Charles II who on “the grounds of his perjury and breach of covenant with God and His church, and usurpation of his crown and royal prerogatives….we declare war against such a tyrant and usurper”. Cameron was killed one month later on 22 July at Airds Moss. This action at Sandquhar probably had a lot to do with the introduction of the “Killing Times” from 1680 to 1685. SEE APPENDIX 32 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF RICHARD CAMERON Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page111 OLD DALGARNOCK KIRKYARD Travel south of Thornhill on the A76. Turn west on the A731 for about .7 km. The notice indicates the southern road and also the name of the farm – Kirkbog Farm. The churchyard is about 1.5 km along this unnamed road - about .7 km beyond Kirkbog. A granite cross records the names of 57 Nithsdale martyrs – just inside the cemetery gates. TYNRON KIRKYARD Travelling on the A702 from Thornhill, an unmarked road to the right (second after Penpont) takes you to Tynron. In the churchyard a flat stone on the left is made out to William Smith, a 19 year-old who refused to answer questions when detained and was shot by Cornat Baillie in 1685. GLENCAIRN KIRKYARD From Tynron, turn left over the bridge and the road leads back to the A702. The churchyard (on the right) at Kirkland is just past Maxwelton House (of song fame “Maxwelton Brave” and “Annie Laurie”). Within the railings on the south side of the church, are three stones to Covenanters shot near Ingliston Mains. MONIAIVE Is about 25 km to the northwest of Dumfries (A76 for a short distance then the B729), at the junction of the A702 and B729 and 13.5 km west-southwest of Thornhill. On the B729 going west just outside the village limits is a monument on the right of the hill. It is 8 m high and commemorates Moniaive as the birthplace of James Renwick. He was the last of the martyrs executed in Edinburgh in 1688. Renwick was a weaver’s son and a great conventicle preacher, who dedicated his life to the Covenanting cause on seeing Cargill’s execution at Grassmarket, Edinburgh. He was born near this monument and died, aged 26 years. Smith’s Stone is situated close to the A702 just over 1 km east of the village. The Moniaive District is famous for the song “Annie Laurie” and “Maxwelton Brave”. INGLISTON MAINS Is a farmhouse 2.1 km from Moniaive. Take the 702 southwest from the village for .7 km, turn left and, after about 1 km Ingliston Mains is at the top of the farm road to the right. A cluster of memorials to five men shot by Colonel Douglas are here. The martyr’s stone is behind the trees and shrubs on the right. Ask permission. SOUTHWEST DISTRICT Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page112 WIGTOWN Travel via Dumfries. On the way westwards – by the A75 – is Newton Stewart where Robert Bruce won a battle against the English by rolling boulders down the slopes at them. Travel on the A714 south from Newton Stewart for some 10 km. On Windy Hill above the town, the great stone Obelisk dominates and is visible for a great distance. It is a monument to Margaret Wilson (18 years) and Margaret M’Lauchlan (63 yrs) and other Covenanters. The condemned cell in the old Tolbooth where they awaited execution can be visited in the centre of the town in the Warden’s Office (big building with the clock – as is the Museum). The cell is the only original part of the building from 1685. In the churchyard the white tombstones bear a moving account of their story. Below the church on the edge of the salt flats a stone pillar marks the site of martyrdom on Wigtown sands – the tidal channel of the Bladnoch River which flows into the Solway Firth. The river altered its course in 1825 leaving the mudflats of today. In the Warden’s office is the local museum Open 1400 – 1600 hrs Mon – Fri from Easter to mid September. Little is kept on the martyrs other than the book “The History of the Sufferings of the Church of Scotland from the Revolution to the Restoration” with its reference to the story. There is a small montage on the wall about the story. A local person Donna Brewster has written “Second Daughter” about the time and events. Three men – George Walker, William Johnstone and John Milroy were hanged in Wigtown the same day – 11 May 1685. SEE APPENDIX 33 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF MARGARET WILSON SEE APPENDIX 34 FOR POEM “SCOTLAND’S MAIDEN MARTYR” WHITHORN Is south of Wigtown about 17 km. This is the site where Ninian a bishop of the 5th century lived. At Candida Casa, excavations revealed whitewash – the missionary’s house known as “The White House”. The Museum contains the earliest Christian monument in Scotland. St. Ninian’s Island – where he landed here in 395, after training in Rome, and began work in Scotland. The chapel is medieval. St. Ninian’s Cave is well worth the nearly 1 km walk down the beach to see his retreat. STRANRAER Is situated just over 40 km west of Newtown Stewart in Galloway. The Castle of St. John (c. 1520) dominates the centre of Stranraer. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page113 This castle was the base of John Graham of Claverhouse who led the persecution and slaughter of the Covenanters of the 17th century. The castle was used as a prison in the 19th century. PORT WILLIAM Is about 10 km west of Whithorn. A Celtic cross of the 5th century stands in the grounds of Montrieth House. About 8 km northwest of Port William (near the coast in the region of Alticry) is Chapel Finian, the remains of a typical missionary establishment. GALLOWAY FOREST PARK Situated just north of Newton Stewart in a wild stretch of country with mountains around the lakes. Take adequate footwear and clothing if walking and have local map. A monument at the western end of Loch Trool marks where six Covenanters were killed at prayer in 1685. Bruce’s Stone just above the north shore of Loch Trool commemorates the victory of Robert the Bruce over the English here. CREETOWN Is situated southeast from Wigtown across the water – some 20 km around the road and just beside the A75. Here in the 1680’s two women, Janet Smith (the older one) and Nancy Nivison were martyred similar to the two Margarets of Wigtown, by drowning. They were tied to stakes in the Frith of Cree, probably between Wigtown and Creetown, where the Cree flows into the Frith. There is no monument here. CAIRN HOLY Is just north of the A75, turn off 8 km west of Ardwall – or take the turn off to Anworth. The two cairns of stones by a by-gone age are about 1.5 km from the A75. ANWORTH Travelling east, take the road to Anworth from the A75. Pass the new church and a little way along are the ruins of the church where Samuel Rutherford preached from 1627 – 1636. Rutherford was one of the leaders who introduced the Covenant to the English Parliament in Westminster. He encouraged people to “see Jesus in His beauty and to dwell in Immanuel’s Land”. Here are the graves of martyrs including that of John Bell of Whyteside, shot at Kirkconnel Moor in 1685. On Boreland Hill, less than 1.5 km from the church (visible on the way to Anworth) is a 16.8 m monument to Samuel Rutherford. Rutherford was born in 1600 and lived until 1661 SEE APPENDIX 35 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF SAMUEL RUTHERFORD Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page114 THREAVE CASTLE Is situated just a couple of kms west of Castle Douglas off the A75 on an island in the River Dee. This castle with its huge square block tower dates to the 14th century. It was a Black Douglas stronghold. Douglas surrendered here to the Stuarts in 1455. The huge canon Mons Meg now on show in Edinburgh Castle was brought here in the siege. In 1640 a band of Covenanters defeated the Catholic defenders here. DUMFRIES A main town on the River Nith where the A75 is joined by the A76. See St. Michael’s Kirkyard – it is the burial place of Robert Burns. Note however the obelisk behind the church to all the Dumfries martyrs. Graves of John Kirko, William Welsh and John (William) Grierson are close to the obelisk. The John Kirko Memorial Cairn is situated on the Whitesands at the market entrance (by the River). John Kirko was shot in 1685 for his part in the Pentland Rising nearly twenty years previously. In the grounds of Dumfries Burgh Museum is an impressive red sandstone statuary in honour of “Old Mortality”, Robert Paterson, who found the graves of Covenanters and erected or repaired gravestones at his own expense. Troqueer Church is in the southwest corner of Dumfries. Here John Blackadder was its famous minister during covenanting times, until his imprisonment on Bass Rock and his death as a result of his sufferings. A plaque in the church commemorates him and he is buried in North Berwick. CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE Is situated southeast from Dumfries. Take the B 725 almost south and the castle is just beyond Bowhouse. This castle near Solway Firth was built around 1270 AD. It was besieged by Edward I the ‘Hammer of the Scots’ and at other times in the border wars. Robert Maxwell, the Earl of Nithsdale – the owner supported Charles I but a Covenanter army defeated the castle and put it to ruin in 1640 RUTHWELL Travel east from Dumfries on the A75. Before Annan is a splendid 5.5 m high cross with Runic characters with the Lay of the Cross. ESKDALEMUIR Situated at the junction of the B723 and B709 roads some 30 km north east of Lockerbie. Here in 1685 an Andrew Hislop nursed a dying Covenanter. He was discovered and his house was destroyed – his family left homeless. He was shot and was buried about 100 m from the road in an open field. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page115 “Here lies Andrew Hislop, martyr. Shot dead upon this place by Sir James Johnston of Westerhall and John Graham of Claverhouse”. LOCKERBIE Is situated on the M74 about 30 km north west of Gretna Green on the border; or 15 km north of Annan and 20 km northeast of Dumfries. It is the site where the Pam Am flight103 was blown from the sky by a terrorist bomb on 21 December 1988. In the rear of the cemetery on the topside is a combined memorial. Take Exit 17 if coming south. Look for the Garden of Remembrance signs at the corner near the Holy Trinity Church. KIRKPATRICK-FLEMING Is situated on the A74 about 5 km before Gretna Green. Here is a caravan park on the banks of the Kirtle River. This is the place with the cave where Robert the Bruce hid for some months after being defeated by the English. The year was probably 1306 – some say 1313. According to the story Bruce saw the spider trying and trying to make its web. This inspired him to try again after suffering a mauling at the hands of the English. Victory at Bannockburn for the Scots was the result. The moral of the story is:- “If at first you don’t succeed, try, try, and try again.” The former Dunskely Castle is at the caravan park and from the castle an underground passageway led towards the cave. Originally the cave had rock doors to camouflage its existence. There are at least three other sites claimed to be ‘the cave’. One on Arran Island at Drumadoon, and another at Craigruie and even one in Northern Ireland, This site seems the most likely. GRETNA GREEN Is situated on the border between England and Scotland. The GPS co-ordinates are: N 55 00.333’ W 03 03.751’. In times past Scotland the marriageable age was 16 – but higher in England. In Scotland declaring one’s wish for marriage with two witnesses was legal. The Blacksmith’s Shop is famous for the place where hasty marriages were performed – and is now a tourist spot. The poem “Young Lochinvar” by Tennyson is typical border country. Marriage couples from these regions often escaped to Gretna Green for legalisation of their hopes when opposed by clan and parents. In the anteroom near the Bridal Reception area are four pictures. The story involves John & Charles Wesley staying with a friend at Carlisle. A young German bachelor was also there and asked the hand of the host’s daughter but was refused. Charles assisted the elopement and the pair were married. The pictures ell of Emma who was adopted by the young bride. SEE APPENDIX 36 FOR POEM “YOUNG LOCHINVAR” Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page116 BEWCASTLE Is a small village about 24 km east-northeast of Gretna Green. A 7th century Anglo-Saxon cross erected by Wilfrid is in the parish churchyard. In the church note the ridiculously tiny font built to defeat the Puritan edict of the mid17th century that all baptism were to be by immersion “where possible”. A Roman fort is in the area. CARLISLE Is located about 14km south of the Scottish border and a little to the west of the M6. It is the capital of Cumbria. It has been attacked and pillages by the Danes, Normans and border raiders through the centuries. It was a Royalist stronghold in the time of Cromwell. The Norman Castle remains with its drum towered gates, the fortifications and its west walls. Stones from the Cathedral and also Hadrian’s Wall were used in its construction. Carlisle was a fortification – a part of Hadrian’s Wall. A few stones as part of Hadrian’s Wall are found in the car park of the Cumbrian Arms Hotel on Scotland Road – it is the road from the north – and before the bridge over the Eden River. The Cathedral was originally an Augustinian Priory dating from 1133. The “Tithe Barn” is situated beside the Cathedral and near the City Walls. It dates from the 15th century and has been recently restored. It is now used for receptions and meetings. Originally it was used to hold corn etc. The original heavy beams in the roof give some original atmosphere. HADRIAN’S WALL Both west of Carlisle (12 km) and especially 4 km and 15km east of the commencement of the M6, sections of the Roman Walls are visible. Birdoswald is a 2.5-hectare Roman fort with parts of the wall visible. It is well worth a visit – see the display area. Its hours are usually 1000 – 1800 hrs. ST. BEES Is situated on the western coast just west of Egremont. St. Bega, an Irish princess-turned-missionary, asked the local lord for land for a mission station. He mockingly offered all the land covered by snow on a midsummer’s day. As a result of prayer and a freak weather condition, she got a 5 km stretch of coastline including St. Bees Head. GOSFORTH Is nearly 15 km southeast of St. Bees on the A595. In the parish church is a large cross decorated with Viking themes. MUNCASTER A further 15 km along the A595, Muncaster has a castle and church (free entrance). Again there is a very small baptismal font to avoid baptism by immersion. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page117 HARD KNOT PASS Leave the A595 at Muncaster – if you have good brakes – the steepest gradient in the Lake Country. Hardknott Fort is at 390 m and about 10 km from Muncaster- an old Roman fort. For something different take the narrow gauge railway from Ravenglass. While it does not go as far as Hardknott Fort it gives spectacular views of mountains and valleys. Ambleside is further east from here at the head of Lake Windermere. LAKE DISTRICT Is in Cumbria and extends from some 25 km west of Penrith to southwest of Kendal. There are many famous lakes – Coniston Water, Lake Windermere, Thirlmere etc. This is Wordsworth country and he often wrote of this area. Some of the lakes have been used for water speed records eg Coniston Water and Lake Windermere. There are many walking tracks in the mountains and hills and around the lakes. Contact the Tourist Information for maps and details. Cockermouth Is about 15 km northwest of Keswick on the A66 from Penrith. Here William Wordsworth was born in 1770 Wordsworth House on High Street, now a small museum is the place of his birth. Keswick Is situated on the A685 and the A5284 which comes off the A591 some 16 km southeast from Windermere. Henry VIII’s sixth and last wife came from the castle here. After the area was known for its wool and then leather products, graphite was discovered and the manufacture of lead pencils became an important industry. Visit the Pencil Museum. The Moot Hall dates to around 1813. A presentation of Beatrix Potter can be seen in the shopping centre. Just outside Keswick on the hill or moor to the east is the Castlerigg Stone Circle of ancient Druid stones. Like Ambleside and Windermere it is an interesting place to spend a few days. Grasmere & Rydal These two villages are situated on the A591 some 2 to 3 km north of Ambleside and about 1.5 km apart near Rydal Water. The great English Romantic poet William Wordsworth lived in both villages. Dove Cottage at Grasmere was the home of William Wordsworth from 1799 to 1808. Wordsworth lived here with his sister Dorothy. Wordsworth married Mary Hutchinson in 1802 and theirs was a simple happy family life. Behind Dove Cottage is a barn – now a museum – with artefacts connected with Wordsworth including a pair of his socks. It is situated at the southern end of Grasmere and about 1.5 km from Rydal. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page118 Above Dove Cottage is How Foot Lodge a nice country guesthouse. The members of the Wordsworth family are buried in St. Oswald’s Church here. Rydal Mount Is situated in Rydal some 1.5 km from Grasmere and Dove Cottage. Here Wordsworth lived from 1813 until his death in i1850. In the grounds of the house are some waterfalls and the summerhouse where Wordsworth often sat and wrote. Nearby is Dora’s Field which is ablaze with daffodils in the spring. Ambleside Ambleside is a fascinating Victorian village situated at the northern end of Lake Windermere where the A5931 and A593 converge. It is a must if you want some time in an interesting village. Look for the “Small House” built over the stream Near Sawrey Is situated southwest from Windermere over Lake Windemere on the B5285 (ferry). It was here that Beatrix Potter lived and wrote the tales of Peter Rabbit. ULVERSTON Is south of the lakes on the A590. George Fox the Quaker was intimately connected with Swarthmoor Hall and married the owner’s daughter. Many relics are in the hall and nearby meeting house. Note the graveyard. ISLE OF MAN Situated on the southeast of the Island (due west of the Lake District in the Irish Sea) is Douglas the capital of the island. In 1781 John Wesley preached here in the marketplace of Douglas. MANCHESTER Is situated on the River Mersey (and the Manchester Ship Canal) some 60 km east from Liverpool. It is the industrial capital of the north. There are two very important museums. The John Rylands library at Deansgate (now part of Manchester University) houses a Gutenberg Bible as well as very old Biblical manuscripts, including he famous fragment of the Gospel of John from the first half of the second century, and the earliest fragment of the LXX from the 2nd century BC. The Manchester Museum houses a large Egyptian collection, brought back by Sir Flinders Petrie and is particularly rich in material from the 12th dynasty which could be the era of the Israelite slavery and Exodus (Dr. Courville). CHESTER Is situated just east of the northern Welsh border with England. It is one of the highlights of ‘tourist’ England. It was settled by the Romans who established a camp here in 79 AD. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page119 Augustine the missionary sent from Rome to convert the Celtic church in Britain demanded loyalty to the Bishop of Rome. Then arranged for Ethelfred the King of Northumbria to attack the Prince of Powys at Chester. 1200 priests from the University of Bangor were massacred in an attempt to destroy the primitive Celtic church. Is the best-preserved medieval walled city in England. Its traffic-free shopping precinct features beautiful galleried shops, balustraded walkways, and Biblical mottoes over the timbered carved Tudor houses (mostly 19th century imitations) with oriel windows. They are particularly seen around the intersection of Eastgate Street and Bridge Street. The Chester Rows is the name given to these two-tiered shops first built in the 13th and 14the centuries (and original in many places). The Town Crier calls the time each hour and in summer announces news from the Cross – a reconstruction of the 15th century stone cross destroyed in the Civil War. The Cathedral is from the 14th century with a restored shrine of St. Wilfred. It was built in 1092 and restored in the 14th century. It has great misericords on the choir stalls including scenes of a sow suckling her litter and a quarrelling couple. Also a bench end showing a typical 14th century pilgrim with staff in hand and characteristic hat. Bishop Lloyd’s House in Watergate is the most richly carved house in Chester. The Grosvenor Museum has a great collection of Roman tombstones illustrating their ideas about death. Displays and collections are from the Roman occupation as well as of local history and archaeology. A heritage centre south of the Cross explains the town’s history. The Amphitheatre and the Tower opposite are well worth walking around and seeing the ruins of the Roman times. The City Walls – 3 km long – completely surround the city. Take a very interesting walk along the city wall from the amphitheatre past the Cathedral and around past the canal etc. Persecutions against Celtic Christians took place at the nearby Vale of Chester. The Martyr’s Monument is an obelisk overlooking the River Dee beside the Broughton Road leaving town towards the A54. There is a Shrine to Venus – cross over the Dee Bridge (not the Grosvenor Bridge) and it is on an outcrop of red sandstone to the right. FOR COVENTRY AND STRATFORD-ON-AVON SEE TRIP 3. TEWKESBURY Situated about 20 km north of Gloucester and 60 km southwest of Stratford-uponAvon. At the Natton Church is a cemetery which was used in the past by Sabbath-keepers. SHREWSBURY Is situated on the River Severn some 70 km south of Chester (by way of Whitchurch using the A41 and then the A49). It can be pronounced “Shrozebury”. The Castle guards the town in a great loop of the river. It has the greatest collection of Tudor houses in Britain. Charles Darwin lived here for a time. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page120 Robert Clive the general of the British forces in India lived here and on his return from India became the Mayor. The Clive House Museum is here. LEOMINSTER It is situated on the A49 coming south and just over 40 km west of Worcester by the A44. It is pronounced “Lemster”. The 17th century Priory Church of St. Peter and St. Paul in Broad Street has a ‘dunking stool’ used up until 1809 to still the tongues of nagging women and recalcitrant wives. HEREFORD Is some 30 km south of Leominster on the A49. It was once the capital of the Saxon kingdom of West Mercia. The Cathedral has 1500 chained books. There was also the Mappa Mundi – a 14th century map of the world showing Jerusalem as the centre of the earth. TRIP 15 DIVERSION TO WALES MOLD Is just over 15 km west of Chester in Wales – take the A55 and then the A494. It is noted for the Halleluia Monument. Bishop Germanus came to defeat the Pelagians here. Pictish pirates attacked the group. He hid the frightened Britons here and when the Picts came the Britons shouted “Alleluia” and the Picts fled in terror. See the site from the A541. The ‘Perpendicular Church’ built by Margaret Tudor – mother of Henry Tudor in the 1480’s is one of the finest parish churches in Wales. RUTHIN Is situated inland from Mold on the A494. See the stone on which King Arthur beheaded a rival for Guinevere Holywell – it is about 12 km to the northwest. St. Winifred’s Well is the Lourdes of Wales. People still take away ‘holy water’ despite the fact that due to blasting last century, the spring dried up and water is piped in from elsewhere. LLANGOLLEN Is situated on the River Dee just over 20 km southeast of Ruthin by the A525 and the A542. Is noted for its annual eisteddfod. From Wharf Hill, boats leave for a fabulous trip along the Llangollen Canal as it goes on the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct over the River Dee. Since 1947 during the second week of July the Llangollen International Music Eisteddfod is held – the ‘world’s greatest folk festival’. Llangollen is also noted for its steam trains. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page121 ST. ASAPH Situated midway between Rhyl on the coast and Denbigh on the A 525, it is about 8 km from each. It is Britain’s second smallest city, however it is also known as having the country’s smallest cathedral – no bigger than many parish churches. From 1601 to 1604 William Morgan was the bishop. He was the one who translated the Scriptures into Welsh and had them published in 1588. On the southern side of the cathedral there is an octagonal monument to Morgan and his fellow translators William Salusbury and Gabriel Goodman. Morgan is buried under the presbytery – unmarked since restoration took place in the 1870’s. One of Morgan’s Bibles is on display in the north transept. In an alcove in the south transept there is a good collection of old psalters and prayer books An ivory Madonna is in one of the columns opposite the prayer books. It came from one of the ships of the Spanish Armada. SEE APPENDIX 36 FOR BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM MORGAN RHOS-ON-SEA Is on the headland near Colwyn Bay (the A55 takes you there along the coast). Llandrillo’s Chapel is well preserved. If open, note the holy well under the altar. CONWY Is just past the Ormes Peninsula and over the Conwy River – just south of the A55. Admire the Castle. Near the castle is an imposing monument which was built by Edward I. The Smallest House is the smallest house in Britain near the trawler ships after coming down off the wall. The Town Walls are 1280 m long and over 9 m high. CAERHUN Take the B5106 south of Conwy. Once past Ty’n-y-Groes (just over 5 km) watch for a little sign on the left. The parish church is built on one corner of a Roman fort – see the walls and ditch. LLANFAIR P.G. Is just over the Menai Bridge to Anglesey Island. It has an often-photographed railway station. Its full name is Llanfairpwllgwynghllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogogoch. PENMON On the northeast corner of Anglesey Island, Penmon has a ruined stone cell similar to Llandrillo Chapel at Rhos-on-Sea. It is located just north of Benllech. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page122 It is a deserted Roman village. HOLYHEAD Is located on the extreme west of Anglesey the Holy Island. The parish church is built inside the Roman fort with walls still eight to twelve feet high. Listen to the stories of why Cybi and Seriol, the original missionaries became dark and fair. CAENARFON Is situated on the mainland by way of A487 past the exits to Anglesey Island. It has the remains of a great fortress and castle – perhaps the most famous in Wales. See the Mithraic medallion in the museum. Constantine the Roman Emperor was born here in 280. See the remains of a Roman fort Segontium above the town. Edward I defeated the last Welsh prince in 1283 and built the castle. Prince Charles as Prince of Wales was inducted here in 1969. The first was inducted in 1301. LLANBERIS & MT SNOWDON RAILWAY This narrow gauge railway leaves from the old slate town of Llanberis. Mt Snowdon is the highest mountain in Wales and is 1085 m high. BLAENAU FFESTINIOG Is situated on the A470. Travel south of Caernarfon by the A487 to Porthmadog then eastwards along the A487. It was once the ‘slate capital’ of northern Wales. Visits may be made into the slate mines with the Deep Mine Tour going underground on the steepest underground railway. People come from around the world to travel on the Ffestiniog Railway from Blaenau to Porthmadog. It is a steam cog railway. LLANFIHANGEL-Y-PENNANT Is situated south from Porthmadog. Take the A470 then about 7 km on the A487 until the B4405 leads to Abergynolwyn (about 14 km). From Abergynolwyn take the unnumbered road for about 7 km northwest to the village. Mary Jones House was the home of a young 16 year-old Welsh girl who walked the 45 km to Bala in 1800 (the A494 from Dolgellau) to buy a Bible, but was disappointed. This incident led to the founding of the British and Foreign Bible Society. Today Mary Jones’ house is in ruins – Tyn-y-ddôl. It is about 1 km northeast of he castle ruins. There are also the ruins here of a castle (Castell y Bere) built in 1221 AD by Llywelyn the Great to protect the mountain passes. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page123 CORRIS Is situated on the A487 some 8 km south of the junction with the A 470. Just to the west of the town is Braichgoch Mountain and King Arthur’s Labyrinth caverns. Travel by boat in the underground caverns and then walk through them to fantastic stories of King Arthur and a Sound & Light Show. The trip concludes in the Corris Craft Centre. ST. DOGMAELS Is further down the Welsh coast just past Cardigan (use the A487). Here is a 2 m high pillar with an Ogham inscription, that proved to be a key to the script. It is in the Abbey. ST. DAVIDS Is situated on St. David’s Head the most westerly point in Wales. Take the A487 from Fishguard. The cathedral here was built in a hollow to hide it from the Vikings. In the cathedral also is the Tomb of St. David – and other Welsh notables. ST. GOVAN’S HEAD Is situated on the southerly point south of Pembroke. Another missionary chapel St. Govan’s Chapel is set in a most dramatic setting below the cliffs. MARGAM Is situated about 16 km southeast from Swansea on the M4 – use Exit 39. Here the Margam Museum is a must. It has a splendid collection of Christian and heathen monuments. CARDIFF Is situated on the northern side of the Severn Estuary. In the National Museum there are more early Christian monuments including a standing stone to Catamanus, King of Gwynedd, who founded the first church in North Wales in 634. CAERLON Is located just about 2 or 3 km north of Newport to the east of Cardiff by the M4. Here are Roman Baths, barracks and an amphitheatre. It is worth a visit. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page124 APPENDIX 1 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WESLEY John Wesley was born at Epworth on 17 June 1703, the son of Susannah and Samuel Wesley His father was rector and Anglican priest of the church at Epworth Charles his brother was born 1707 His mother was a remarkable woman, and had a profound influence on his life, being called the “Mother of Methodism”. She taught him for the first ten years of his life Later John won scholarships and fellowships to get himself an education As a small child of about 6 or 7 years of age, while living in the parsonage at Epworth, a fire destroyed the house and he was rescued by being passed out of the upstairs window to a neighbour standing on the shoulders of another. This was just prior to the roof collapsing. His mother called him “A brand plucked from the burning” and believed he had been saved by God for a special work. The peasants set fire to the parsonage house three times protesting against the Church of England’s pre-occupation with the middle and upper classes. This attuned John Wesley to the needs of the poorer classes becoming a social reformer In 1714 he attended the Charterhouse School in London. John here, as everywhere, attracted people with his charming personality In 1720 he entered Christ Church College at Oxford studying to follow his father as a clergyman. He developed a passionate desire to be like Christ and “The Imitation of Christ” and the “Rules and Exercises for a Holy Life” by Jeremy Taylor (1650) influenced his life remarkably In 1725 he was ordained a Deacon in Oxford Cathedral He became known as the leader of the Holy Club at Oxford leading the group in Bible Study and assisting the poor and needy His brother Charles joined him at this time in 1729 John kept a methodical account of his activities every day He was a born organiser - a leader of men He realised that to avoid being in the hands of the devil, he must be totally committed to God, his father knowing this said on his deathbed “Faith shall be restored to the kingdom.” His father had urged firstly Charles and then John to follow him as the rector at Epworth – both declined. One of Wesley’s close friends a Dr John Burton of Corpus Christi College, Oxford urged John to go to Georgia – letter dated 8 September 1735. Wesley had highly romantic understanding of the Indians of Georgia as ‘noble savages’. He hoped to learn the true sense of the Gospel of Christ by preaching to the heathen. On 14 October 1735 he sailed with Charles for the state of Georgia in America on the ship ‘Simmonds’. On the voyage a group of German Moravians influenced him by their devout religious experience. On the voyage he organized he passengers and those on board for religious exercies and devotions. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page125 Wesley spoke on the ships deck to the assembled group – his first in the open air and he spoke extemporaneously. Wesley really had not sorted out things in his own life and expected the time in Georgia to do that for him. He wrote “In vain have I fled from myself to America: I still groan under the intolerable weight of inherent misery…” On the Simmonds were a group of Moravian Christians led by David Nitschmann. These people had an experience – a stranger as it were to Wesley – of joy in life, and peace in the face of death. It was the peaceful calm of the Moravians in a violent storm which really impressed Wesley. His austere life and teachings however, put him offside with the colonists in Georgia and he returned to Britain after just three years, landing at Deal on 1 February 1738. During February he met a Moravian Peter Böhler at the home of a Dutch merchant named Weinantz. Böhler had studied for medicine but moved to study theology at Jena. Influenced by other Moravians and then Count Zinzendorf Böhler was converted. Böhler was ordained in 1737 and became Zinzendorf’s commissioner for England. He was God’s chosen instrument to continue the tutoring of Wesley as Bilney had done for Latimer. During February Böhler went to Oxford with John and also Charles Wesley. Böhler was an instrument in Charles’ conversion which preceded that of John Wesley. Böhler wrote of Wesley at this time, “John in an amiable man; jhe acknowledges that he does you yet rightly know the Saviour and suffers himself to be instructed.” Böhler like Zinzendorf held to the Christ of the Scriptures but until now Wesley had held an idea of natural theology greatly in favour at the time. On 5 March Wesley went to Oxford again to see Charles who was sick. Again he met Böhler and was led to see his need of saving faith – which became his quest. At this time both Charles and John were led to leave off the use of the Prayer Book and begin extemporaneous preaching and extemporary prayers. This began to bring the disapproval of the established church. The turning point of his life came on the 24th May 1738. He was determined to pray for a complete understanding and in his Bible on this morning he read 2 Peter 1:4 “Whereby are given unto us exceeding great and precious promises: that by these ye might be partakers of the divine nature”. Just on leaving his house he read Mark 12:34 “Thou are not far from the kingdom of God”. On that afternoon he attended a service at St. Pauls and the anthem was sung “Out of the deep have I called unto Thee, O Lord; Lord, hear my voice….”. That evening when he attended a gathering of the Moravians in Aldersgate Street he accepted the free gift of salvation in Jesus. He wrote “In the evening I went very unwillingly to a Society in Aldersgate Street where one was reading Luther’s Preface to the Epistle to the Romans. About a quarter before nine, while he was describing the change which God works in the heart through faith in Christ, I felt my heart strangely warmed. I felt I did trust in Christ alone for Salvation: and an assurance was given me, that He had taken away my sins, even mine, and saved me from the Law of sin and death.” He visited the Moravians in Germany briefly before returning to England He commenced preaching with George Whitefield - a strict Calvinist - and three Oxford friends on January 1st, 1739 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page126 His first open-air sermon took place on April 2 that year in Bristol. Before long he was preaching to five, ten and twenty thousand people at a time B mostly in the open, being barred from churches He became a ‘circuit ridin' preacher’ on horseback - travelling over 5000 miles a year for fifty years The preaching of John Wesley has been credited in transforming England and prevented a revolution such as occurred in France John Wesley commenced a ministry at the foundry and some benches which were used, are on display in the chapel associated with his church in City Road, London Charles Wesley, his brother contributed many hymns to the Christian Church, and an organ on which he composed many of them is also in the chapel in City Road John Wesley was always a man of prayer and his prayer room in his house, now a museum, beside the church in City Road, bears eloquent testimony to the source of the power in John Wesley’s life He organised the believers into societies which met regularly in prayer and exhortation. Thus the Methodist church was built , and when he died there were over 135,000 members with 540 preachers in Great Britain and America Wesley had strong differences with George Whitefield who was Calvinistic in his beliefs. Wesley had preached his sermon “Free Grace” to counter Whitefield’s position. However a peaceful co-existence came about and on Whitefield’s deathbed, he requested John Wesley to preach the funeral sermon Wesley preached the Holy Spirit and enthusiasm. For him the only acceptable enthusiasm was the operation of grace in the believer. He was careful to distinguish between this and hysteron or spirit possession When asked where his parish was he replied “The whole world is my parish!” He died March 2, 1791 and is buried behind his church in City Road His rule for Christian living:"Do all the Good you can By all the Means you can In All the Ways you can In All the Places you can At All the Times you can To All the People you can As long as Ever you can!" Bibliography: Christian History Magazine – John Wesley The Burning Heart – A Skevington Wood Cliff College Publsihing Calver, Hope Valley Sheffield 2001 Epworth – the Home of the Wesleys John Wesley – The Great Methodist Sam Wellman Barbour Publishing Ulrichsville Ohio USA The Oxford History of the Christian Church – Article Wesley APPENDIX 2 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN NEWTON Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page127 He was born in London in 1725. He was an only child – his father was a sea captain. His mother was a Dissenter with Puritan a background. He was taught by his mother to read Scripture and memorise catechism and hymns. He attended a Congregational Independent church with his mother. She died when he was just seven years of age. Between the ages of 11 and 17 he accompanied his father on five sea voyages learning seamanship. His stepmother let him please himself and he often found himself in trouble. During this time of his life he alternated trouble with strong attempts to live a Christian life and would then pray and read Christian literature and even write diaries of his spiritual life. When aged 17, his father, now retired from the sea, arranged for John to be a slave overseer in Jamaica. John had met a Mary Catlett from Kent and fell head over heels in love and missed his ship to Jamaica. His father subsequently signed John on as a common sailor for a month’s voyage. This was the beginning of a smoking, swearing immoral young man who found the flesh pots of Venice attractive. On his return journey, Newtown dreamed he had forsaken God’s mercy. Then for a few weeks he turned to his mother’s God. On 1 March 1744 Newton was press-ganged as a crewman on the Navy ship the “Harwich”. Here he forsook his religious background, and persuaded another Christian to abandon his faith. Jumping ship to be closer to Mary, he was caught and dragged back and flogged with the cat-o’-nine-tails. He was transferred to another ship the ‘Greyhound’ – a slave ship. He was awakened from his immoral life by finding the book “Imitation of Christ” by Thomas a Kempis. Then on a slave run on 21 March 1748 the ship began to split during a storm. Newton felt he was too great a sinner to find the forgiveness of God, yet as the situation with the ship worsened, he clung to the grace revealed in Scripture and prayed his first prayer in years. He went back to his old ways and then became extremely ill while in Sierra Leone. While realising that he had let the Saviour down yet again, he poured out his heart to God. While now a Christian he became the captain of a slave trading ship. He married Mary on 1 February 1750. While captaining several slave ships, he would pray for the slaves. Another ship’s captain Alexander Clunie encouraged him in the Christian way. John Newton then forsook the sea and became a ‘Tide Surveyor’ in Liverpool. He was a friend of George Whitfield and began to emulate his friend even in preaching. He tried for seven years from 1757 to 1764 to become an ordained minister of the Church of England. Then through a friend’s influence he was ordained a curate at Olney, in Buckinghamshire. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page128 He wrote the autobiography of his spiritual journey in 1764 – “An Authentic Narrative of Some Remarkable and Interesting Particulars in the Life of ******” About this time he began to write hymns. From 1767 he was a close friend of William Cowper the poet and hymn-writer who had serious mental instability. Newton published “Olney Hymns” which included some of Cowper’s hymns. It also included Newton’s famous hymn “Amazing Grace” which was written to accompany a sermon on grace. In 1779 he accepted the appointment to St. May Woolnoth church in London. Over the fireplace in his study were these words “Since thou was precious in my sight, thou has been honourable (Isa 18:4), BUT Thou shalt remember that thou wast a bondman in the land of Egypt, and the LORD thy God redeemed thee (Deut 15:15). He wrote the epitaph that is now on his gravestone – “John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in Africa, was, by the rich mercy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had long laboured to destroy”. Bibliography: “Christian History & Biography” Magazine Issue 81 Winter Issue 2004 APPENDIX 3 POEM “SMITHFIELD” Tell me: If Smithfield blazed again, Would new confessors rise From farm and wind and rural lane, Calm hearts with constant eyes? Would the old weaver watch his hand Waste in the candle blaze? The nursemaid at the faggot stand, And turn the pain to praise? Would men in boots of village make And frieze of homespun wear, Trudge on serenely to the stake, As if to church or fair? Would milking maid and village sire, And lad in ‘prentice gray’ Tread the fierce ecstasy of fire Into a homely way? Where keeps the faith that lit their eyes, Who sank to Stephen’s sleep? Perchance the Book that sixpence buys Grows vulgar now and cheap. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Enough of questioning, enough – Too much of bitter doubt: If Ridley’s candle craves the snuff, No time shall put it out. They do but ask the beck of God, The cause of instant need, To spring from England’s every sod, Men of the martyr breed. Men of the breed no feat can tame, True to the hard-won right, Ready to pour their souls in flame To spread the larger light. - Canon Langbridge Page129 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page130 APPENDIX 4 THE PILGRIM FATHERS The title “Pilgrim Fathers” was given to the Puritans who sailed from England to Holland and then via England to found the colony of Plymouth in Massachusetts. These people came predominantly from the east of England. Lincolnshire and Essex were the centres but other counties were also home to these Pilgrims. They came from such towns as Gainsborough, Scrooby and Austerfield in Lincolnshire and sailed from Immingham and Hull. The leaders included William Brewster who had served as postmaster at Scrooby; William Bradford and John Robinson. Persecution for being non-conformists firstly drove these people from England to Holland where they settled in Amsterdam, and then in particular Leiden. The Begihinhof, in Amsterdam, is the English Church where John Robinson had preached and a plaque there links it to the Pilgrim Fathers. The Pieters Kerk (St. Peters) in Leiden is where the pilgrims would worship. John Robinson is buried there and across the road near the rear of the church is the house where he lived. A printing press was operated nearby in Choir Alley. These English Separatists from Scrooby were joined by others from Essex and other counties. An agreement including the “Seven Articles” was made with the Virginia Company gaining permission to settle near the Hudson River. In the spring of 1620 a group of London merchant adventurers led by John Pierce and Thomas Weston agreed to finance the venture for 50% of the profits for seven years. The first Pilgrim Fathers – a name of comparatively recent origin – sailed from Delfshaven on the River Maas in Rotterdam for Southampton, England in the ship “Speedwell”, a ship of 60 tons on 22 July 1620. The Pelgrimvaders Kerk is located at Delfshaven, Rotterdam from where they sailed. The “Mayflower” was chartered to take a larger group (the signing took place in a house near Canterbury Cathedral). The “Mayflower” sailed from London down the Thames to Leigh-by-the-Sea, where at Wapping Stairs the ship was provisioned for the journey. The youngest and strongest from Leiden would leave first. About 53 of them were in the Pilgrim Fathers sailing including William Bradford, William Brewster and John Carver. The group – or at least the leaders – attended a meeting at Billericay some 15 kms from Leigh-by-the-Sea, and the meeting there confirmed the decision to sail to the New World. The meeting was held at High Street, Billericay in the home of Christopher Martin – today a restaurant. Christopher Martin of Billericay and his wife Marie joined the group with their servants. The “Mayflower” sailed to Southampton and was joined by the Speedwell. The two ships sailed on the 5 August with about 120 migrants. Soon the “Speedwell” was leaking and Captain Reynolds dared not continue and put into Dartmouth leaving there on 23 August. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page131 The next day the “Speedwell” was again leaking badly and the ships put into Plymouth in Devon. Here the “Speedwell” was left as unfit for sailing. The 102 migrants sailed on the “Mayflower” from Plymouth on 6 September 1620. They reached Cape Cod on 9 November and after trying to venture south returned and landed at Cape Cod on 11 November 1620. John Robinson Came from Lincolnshire - or Nottinghamshire. He probably studied at Cambridge at Corpus Christi College. He became a curate at Norwich then joined the Puritans at Scrooby, fleeing with his congregation to Holland in 1608. A member of the University of Leiden, he ministered to the members and encouraged them to emigrate, their strict Calvinism coming into conflict with the Arminianism of those living in Leiden. Robert Browne Came from Tolethorpe in Rutlandshire. He studied at Corpus Christi College at Cambridge. He became known as the Father of Congregationalism. He asserted that all should be able to worship without interference from the State. He also said that man should be able to get in contact with his Maker without human intervention. His ideas really helped found the desire of the Pilgrim Fathers to migrate as they did. APPENDIX 5 BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM HUNTER William Hunter was born to religious parents. He had been trained in the doctrines of the Reformation from his earliest youth. He truly loved the Bible and this made him anathema to the authorities. He refused communion at Mass when aged 19 years. Bishop Bonner endeavoured to reason with him, promising security and pardon if he would just go and receive confession. Hunter refused and was first placed in stocks for two days and nights with just a crust of brown bread and a cup of water – which he did not touch. He was then sent to prison with as many irons on him as he could bear. First he spent time in Newgate prison. During the nine months in prison he went before the Bishop five times, found to be incorrigible, then he was condemned on February 9 in St. Pauls. Then after a month was sent to his home town Brentwood to be burned. On the day of his martyrdom the procession of officials with William in the middle left from the Swan Inn. At the stake he knelt down, read Psalm 51 until the verse, "the sacrifices of God are a broken spirit and a contrite heart, O God, thou wilt not despise." The bailiff put the chain about him and William threw the Psalter to his brother Robert, who called to him, "William, think of the passion of Christ, and be not afraid of death." Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page132 "Behold", answered William, "I am not afraid". Then he said, "Lord, Lord, Lord, receive my spirit". His martyrdom resulted in others seeking out the Scriptures to find a faith like his. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page133 APPENDIX 6 BIOGRAPHY OF DR. PETER CHAMBERLEN Peter Chamberlen was born in 1601 of Huguenot ancestry and Anabaptist connections. His family emigrated to England in the middle of the 16th century to escape persecution. Many in his family ancestry were doctors and the Chamberlens invented delivery forceps - and kept them as a lucrative secret. Dr Peter Chamberlen was sought after by the aristocracy because of his success with difficult midwifery cases. He was court physician to several including the Czar of Russia. Dr. Peter Chamberlen studied at Cambridge from the age of 14, then at Heidelberg and Padua – the leading medical school of Europe. He dressed flamboyantly and this caused strained relations with the Royal College of Physicians – as well as his advanced ideas such as the training of midwives and the daily bathing of newborn babies – an unheard of practice at the time. He also advocated public baths and the therapeutic value of water. He was finally dismissed from the Royal Society of Physicians for missing obligatory lectures. He was associated with the Baptist movement – being baptised in 1648. He kept Saturday as the Sabbath for many years. While living at his Colman Street home in London, he regularly worshipped at Blackfriars with Sabbath-keeping Christians. He was an author of many letters and essays on religious and political subjects and corresponded with the bishops of his day including Bishop Sheldon about Daniel 7:25 “…change of times and laws”. He owned Woodham Mortimer Hall – the house next door to St. Margaret’s Church. His will began: “Being weak of body but of good and perfect mind and memory (all praise be given to God) do make and ordain this my last will and testament in manner following: First I commend my soul into the hands of Almighty God, my Creator, and Jesus Christ my only Saviour and Redeemer, by whose mercy and merits I believe and do assuredly hope to obtain free pardon and remission of all my sins and offences. And to inherit among the elect the joys and fruition of eternal life. My body I commit to the earth whence it was extracted to be decently buried in sure and certain expectation of a joyful resurrection at the last day.” He died being 82 years of age. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page134 APPENDIX 7 BIOGRAPHY OF CHARLES HADDON SPURGEON Spurgeon was born at Kelvedon near Colchester 19 June 1834. His father and grandfather were both Congregational ministers. He was the first of seventeen children. He spent many of his boyhood years with his grandfather. As a youth he attended every church in Colchester in an endeavour to find the assurance of the gospel. One winter Sunday he planned to go to the village of Tollesbury but snow prevented it. He instead went to the Primitive Methodist church in Colchester. The minister was absent so a shoemaker or tailor preached and Charles found the Lord and salvation. As a young boy Spurgeon used to ‘preach’ to his brothers. At the age of 17 he was invited to go to a village by the leader of the Local Preachers Association to hear a young man preach. It was intended that Spurgeon – that young man – would preach his first sermon that day. He preached in cottages, churches and in the open air. The church at Waterbeach – which became his first parish, became crammed to overflowing. Despite some caustic jealous comments re his preaching, Spurgeon continue to attract crowds by his down-to-earth direct and sincere preaching. On 11 December 1853 when aged 19 years, Spurgeon preached at the historic New Park Street Baptist chapel. Thus began his tenure there for the rest of his life. Spurgeon was caricaturised and criticised in the press. Often his greatest critics were fellow clerics. Though a Calvinist, strict Calvinists felt he had forsaken his beliefs. Through all his preaching men and women were converted. An example was a workman at the Crystal Palace heard Spurgeon trying out the acoustics the day prior to his meeting and was converted. Spurgeon though a Calvinist preached and believed in ‘Plenteous Redemption’ – that all who believe will be saved. At the Crystal Palace it was estimated that 25,000 heard him. Spurgeon was alert and extremely quick with repartee so that any heckler or interrupter was usually silenced with one reply. Once when a man was killed by lighting in Clapham Common, Spurgeon announced he would preach from the very same spot. And 10,000 gathered to hear a sermon on “Be Ye also Ready”. Known as a ‘fearless orator’, a keen controversialist, and a persistent dogmatist, he was really troubled by suffering and ministered to people’s needs. He married Susannah Thompson on 12 January 1856 and twins were born to this union. Of his many books perhaps his best known is “John Ploughman’s Talks” whish showed his ability to use common themes to preach Jesus Christ. Spurgeon’s one passion was Christ. The Metropolitan Tabernacle seating 5500 was completed March 1861. At almost the end of his life, Spurgeon withdrew from the Baptist Union in protest at modernism. Spurgeon was the last and perhaps the prince of Puritan Preachers. William Stott joined the staff of the T abernacle in 1891 and became the next pastor. Overseas Travel BRITAIN He died at Menton, France 31 January 1892. Page135 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page136 APPENDIX 8 BIOGRAPHY OF NICHOLAS RIDLEY He was born in South Tyneside, Northumberland about 1500. He attended Pembroke College at Cambridge University. Ridley was ordained a priest in 1524. By 1524 he was showing sympathies with the Protestant doctrines. In 1537 he became a chaplain to Thomas Cranmer the Archbishop of Canterbury. In 1540 Ridley was elected Master of Pembroke Hall. Here he led out in transforming Cambridge University into a Reformist Seminary. He was made Canon of Canterbury in 1541 and then Canon of Westminster in 1545. Ridley began to be suspected of heresy about this time. He was them appointed Bishop of Rochester and in 1550, Bishop of London. He made the See of London a showpiece of Reformed England. Ridley denied the doctrine of transubstantiation. He was one of the finest academic minds in the first generation of the English Reformation. He supported the claim of the Protestant Lady Jane Grey to the throne. On the access of Mary, he was imprisoned. His martyrdom took place in Oxford 16 October 1555 along with Hugh Latimer. APPENDIX 9 BIOGRAPHY OF HUGH LATIMER Latimer was born in Thurcaston, Leicestershire in 1485. He was the son of a yeoman farmer and entered Cambridge University. Latimer was ordained a priest in 1510. He joined the “Little Germany” group at Cambridge in 1525. Latimer attributed his conversion to the group’s spiritual leader, Thomas Bilney. He developed a reputation as a preacher at Cambridge by 1530. After speaking publicly in favour of Henry VIII’s divorce he received the benefice of West Kington, Wiltshire in 1531. He was a friend of Thomas Cromwell who became the king’s minister and also with Thomas Cranmer. In 1532 he was accused (correctly) of not subscribing to the existence of purgatory and also the need to venerate saints. He was excommunicated – until he made a complete submission (April 1532). Because of Cromwell’s influence he became Bishop of Worcester in 1535. By 1536 he was regarded as one of the Reformation leaders. Latimer was removed in 1539 as Bishop of Worcester because of a reaction in favour of orthodoxy. He spent some time in the Tower of London because of heresy charges. He was soon freed and became a preacher without fear or favour attracting large crowds. He popularised the Reformation and became a marked man on the accession of Mary to the throne in 1553. He was arrested on a charge of treason and taken to Oxford for trial. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page137 He was burnt in Broad Street 16 October 1555 along with Nicholas Ridley, and is immortalised by his words to Ridley: “we shall this day light such a candle, by God’s grace, in England as I trust shall never be put out”. APPENDIX 10 BIOGRAPHY OF THOMAS CRANMER Cranmer was born at Aslockton, Nottinghamshire 2 July 1489. He was the first Protestant Archbishop of Canterbury. He had a teacher who was very severe and cruel, which left Cranmer with lifelong uncertainties and a pliability. He entered Cambridge University in 1503 and was an undergraduate student at Jesus College 1503 – 1511. He was elected to a fellowship at Jesus College about 1510. Cranmer had to leave on his marriage soon afterwards in 1515. He married a relative of the landlady of the Dolphin Inn. His wife died in childbirth the same year. Cranmer taught at Buckingham College (later Magdalene College). He became one of the outstanding theologians of his time. Cranmer joined the “Little Germany” group of scholars who met to discuss Martin Luther’s teaching. The group included Thomas Bilney among others. In 1525 Cranmer included in his prayers one for the abolition of papal power in England. From 1527 Henry VIII wanted to be free from his first wife Catherine of Aragon to be able to marry Anne Boleyn. In August 1529 Cranmer left Cambridge for Waltham in Essex to avoid a sickness sweeping Cambridge. There were there two of the king’s chief councillors – Stephen Gardiner and Edward Fox. They talked with Cranmer about the ‘divorce’. Cranmer suggested a debate on the subject by the English universities which supported Henry’s request. Henry VIII summoned Cranmer and commanded him to leave all other duties and devote himself to this issue. He accepted a commission to write a propaganda treatise with Scriptural support for the divorce. Cranmer was lodged in the home of Anne Boleyn’s father at Durham Place. He was appointed archdeacon of Taunton and became one of the king’s chaplains. His treatise was then debated at the universities of Oxford and Cambridge. He accompanied Anne Boleyn’s father, the Earl of Wiltshire to Rome in 1530 to present Henry VIII’s case. Here he was made a Grand Penitentiary of England. In 1532 Cranmer was sent to Germany as ambassador to Emperor Charles V and told to make contact with the Lutheran princes. At Nürnberg he met Andreas Osiander. Osiander’s position was between that of the Lutherans and orthodoxy. Despite his priest’s orders, Cranmer married Osiander’s niece, but kept the marriage secret for 14 years. He learned more Reformed beliefs at this time. By January 1533 Thomas Cranmer was chief adviser in ecclesiastical matters and also Anne Boleyn was pregnant. Cranmer was chosen as Archbishop of Canterbury and consecrated in March 1533 taking the obligatory oath to the pope without feeling bound by it. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page138 In May 1533, Cranmer convened his court at Dunstable and declared the king’s marriage to Catherine void from the beginning and declared the marriage with Anne Boleyn valid. The King of England became the head of the Church of England in 1534. Monasteries were dissolved over the next five years. In 1536 Henry persecuted William Tyndale and arranged for his execution; but two years later decreed an English Bible be placed in every English church. In 1536, he was convinced by dubious evidence of Anne’s adulteries, and Cranmer then declared the marriage invalid. With Thomas Cromwell he promoted the publication of an English Bible (1538). Also in 1538 he abandoned his belief in transubstantiation. With the passage of the Act of Six Articles (1539) opposing clergy marriage and those denying transubstantiation his position became less comfortable, Cranmer sent his wife to Germany at this time. In 1540 he did the same for Henry’s fourth wife – Anne of Cleves. In 1542 he acted in the proceedings resulting in Catherine Howard’s treasonable unchastity. In 1545 Cranmer was now a committed reformer and developed a new liturgy for the Reformed Church of England. He pleaded before Henry VIII for Anne Boleyn, Thomas Cromwell and others. Cranmer appeared free from greed and was not devious. He assisted Edward VI (became king in 1547) in the task of reformation. In 1547 he published a “Book of Homilies”. Cranmer’s marriage to Margaret was kept secret until 1548. In 1549 the first Protestant “Prayer Book” was printed. In 1552 the second “Prayer Book” decidedly Protestant was printed. Cranmer was influenced by Martin Bucer of Strassbourg and Nicholas Ridley of England. In 1553 Cranmer authored the “Forty-two Articles” – later reduced to 39 and officially accepted by the Anglican Church. The beauty of the liturgy of the Church of England owes much to Cranmer. On Edward VI’s death in 1553, Cranmer became embroiled in politics and succession. Lady Jane Grey though pronounced Queen was deposed after nine days and Mary acceded to the throne. Cranmer was charged with treason and condemned in November 1553 – being imprisoned in the Tower of London. While waiting for the repeal of the laws instituted by Henry VIII and Edward VI, Cranmer along with Hugh Latimer and Nicholas Ridley were moved to Oxford in March 1554 to Bocard’s Prison. The Heresy Laws wee reinstituted that year and a long imprisonment began for Cranmer. In September 1555 a long trial commenced in St. Mary the Virgin Church Oxford. Cranmer defended himself. On 14 February 1556 in a carefully designed humiliation ceremony he was degraded from his episcopal and sarcedotal offices. Many hard efforts were made to have Cranmer renounce his errors publicly. In October 1555 he had been made to witness the martyrdom of Ridley and Latimer. He signed the five so-called recantations most of which bound him to his monarch’s position. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page139 In his weak state he made a sixth and abject recantation of his whole religious development. With nothing to lose and peace of soul to gain, he shocked his enemies by disavowing his recantations. Thus he died and held his right hand out to the flames – the hand, which had offended by signing the recantations – until it was consumed. His brave and dignified end made an enormous impression. Overseas Travel BRITAIN APPENDIX 11 ELERGY WRITTEN IN A COUNTRY CHURCHYARD The curfew tolls the knell of parting day, The lowing herd wind slowly o’er the lea, The ploughman homeward plods his weary way, And leaves the world to darkness and to me. Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight, And all the air a solemn stillness holds, Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight, And drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds; Save that from yonder ivy-mantled tow’r The moping owl does to the moon complain Of such as, wand’ring near her secret bow’r, Molest her ancient solitary reign. Beneath those rugged elms, that yew-tree’s shade, Where heaves the turf in many a mould’ring heap, Each in his narrow cell for ever laid, The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep. The breezy call of incense-breathing morn, The swallow twitt’ring from the straw-built shed, The cock’s shrill clarion or the echoing horn, No more shall rouse them from their lowly bed. For them no more the blazing hearth shall burn, Or busy housewife ply her evening care: No children run to lisp their sire’s return, Or climb his knees the envied kiss to share. Oft did the harvest to their sickle yield, Their furrow oft the stubborn glebe has broke; How jocund did they drive their team afield! How bowed the woods beneath their sturdy stroke. Let not Ambition mock their useful toil, Their homely joys and destiny obscure: Nor Grandeur hear, with a disdainful smile, The short and simple annals of the poor. The boast of heraldry, the pomp of pow’r, And all that beauty, all that wealth e’er gave, Awaits alike the inevitable hour. The paths of glory lead but to the grave. Nor you, ye Proud, impute to these the fault, If Mem’ry o’er their tomb no trophies raise, Where through the long-drawn aisle and fretted vault Page140 Overseas Travel BRITAIN The pealing anthem swells the note of praise. Can storied urn or animated bust Back to its mansion call the fleeting breath? Can Honour’s voice provoke the silent dust, Or Flatt’ry soothe the dull cold ear of Death? Perhaps in this neglected spot is laid Some heart once pregnant with celestial fire; Hands that the rod of empire might have swayed, Or waked to ecstasy the living lyre. But Knowledge to their eyes her ample page Rich with the spoils of time did ne’er unroll; Chill Penury repressed their noble rage, And froze the genial current of the soul. Full many a gem of purest ray serene The dark unfathomed caves of ocean bear: Full many a flower is born to blush unseen And waste its sweetness on the desert air. Some village-Hampden that with dauntless breast The little tyrant of his fields withstood; Some mute inglorious Milton here may rest, Some Cromwell guiltless of his country’s blood. Th’ applause of list’ning senates to command, The threats of pain and ruin to despise, To scatter plenty o’er a smiling land, And read their hist’ry in a nation’s eyes, Their lot forbade: nor circumscribed alone Their growing virtues, but their crimes confined; Forbade to wade through slaughter to a throne, And shut the gates of mercy on mankind. The struggling pangs of conscious truth to hide, To quench the blushes of ingenuous shame, Or heap the shrine of Luxury and Pride With incense kindled at the Muse’s flame. Far from the madding crowd’s ignoble strife Their sober wishes never learned to stray; Along the cool sequestered vale of life They kept the noiseless tenor of their way. Yet ev’n these bones from insult to protect Some frail memorial still erected nigh, With uncouth rhymes and shapeless sculpture decked, Page141 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Implores the passing tribute of a sigh. Their name, their years, spelt by th’ unlettered muse, The place of fame and elergy supply: And many a holy text around she strews, That teach the rustic moralist to die. For who to dumb Forgetfulness a prey, This pleasing anxious being e’er resigned, Left the warm precincts of the cheerful day, Nor cast one longing ling’ring look behind? On some fond breast the parting soul relies, Some pious drops the closing eye requires; Ev’n from the tomb the voice of Nature cries, Ev’n in our ashes live their wonted fires. For thee who, mindful of th’ unhonoured dead, Dost in these lines their artless tale relate; If chance, by lonely Contemplation led, Some kindred spirit shall inquire thy fate, Haply some hoary-headed swain may say, ‘Oft have we seen him at the peep of dawn Brushing with hasty steps the dews away To meet the sun upon the upland lawn. ‘There at the foot of yonder nodding beech That wreathes its old fantastic roots so high, His listless length at noontide would he stretch, And pore upon the brook that babbles by. ‘Hard by yon wood, now smiling as in scorn, Muttering his wayward fancies he would rove, Now drooping, woeful wan, like one forlorn, Or crazed with care, or crossed in hopeless love. ‘One morn I missed him on the customed hill, Along the hearth and near his fav’rite tree; Another came, nor yet beside the rill, Nor up the lawn, nor at the wood was he: ‘The next with dirges due in sad array Slow through the church-way path we saw him borne. Approach and read (for thou canst read) the lay, Graved on the stone beneath yon aged thorn.’ THE EPITAPH Here rests his head upon the lap of earth A youth to fortune and to fame unknown. Fair Science frowned not on his humble birth, Page142 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page143 And Melancholy marked him for her own. Large was his bounty and his soul sincere, Heaven did a recompense as largely send: He gave to Mis’ry all he had, a tear, He gained from heav’n (‘twas all he wished) a friend. No father seek his merits to disclose, Or draw his frailties from their dread abode (There they alike in trembling hope repose), The bosom of his Father and his God. Thomas Gray (Written 1746-1750 in Stokes Poges churchyard) APPENDIX 12 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN BUNYAN John Bunyan was born around September of 1628. His father, Thomas Bunyan (b. 1603) lost his first wife by death early in 1627 childless. Thomas then married Margaret on 23 May 1627 at the Abbey church of St. Mary and St. Helena in Elstow. The Bunyans then set up home at Harrowden, near Elstow where Thomas was a tinker. John Bunyan was christened in the Abbey church at Elstow 30 November 1628. Note the Norman octagonal font at the west end of the north aisle. John Bunyan wrote of his ancestors, "My descent then, was as is well known by many, of a low and inconsiderable generation; my ancestors being of the meanest and most despised of all families in the land. Wherefore I have not here, as others, to boast of noble blood, or of a high-born state, according to the flesh; though all things considered, I magnify the heavenly Majesty, for that by this door He brought me into this world to partake of the grace and life that is in Christ by the gospel". His parents although very poor sent John to school to learn to read and write. By the age of 9 or 10 he was living a reckless life with habitual cursing and swearing, lying and blasphemy. In the summer of 1644, John Bunyan was summoned into the Parliamentary army, though no references exist to military engagements. Very early in 1644 his mother died of influenza and the following month his sister Elizabeth also died. In March of 1644, his father remarried and John’s pain and grieving turned into bitterness. In 1647 after three years of army life, John returned to Elstow as the Army Company had been disbanded. In 1649 Bunyan married and moved to the cottage at Elstow - he worked as a Tinker. His wife’s name is unknown, but some think it may have been Mary - the name of their first daughter. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page144 Bunyan wrote, "We came together as poor as poor might be, not having so much household stuff as dish or spoon betwixt us." His wife brought a simple dowry - two books - "The Plain Man’s Pathway to Heaven" by Arthur Dent (1601) and "The Practice of Piety" by Lewis Bayley (1612). Four children were born to this marriage. Mary the firstborn was blind and christened 20 July 1650, Elizabeth born 14 April 1654. A third child John was born in 1656 and Thomas in 1658. John’s wife influenced him to be regular in church attendance ‘ twice each Sunday’ and as a lover of music he joined in the singing - though he still lived a wicked life with much swearing, lying and cursing. He was the ringleader of the local gangs of young people. His conscience would be ‘pricked’ as he sat and listened in church but it was his custom after hearing Christopher Hall the parish priest preach in the morning to return home for his meal and then join his friends on the village green. By this time Bunyan was a bellringer, ringing the fifth bell of the six in the bell-tower. It is still called the "Bunyan Bell" today. One day Hall had preached a strong sermon against Sunday sport. Bunyan thought it was aimed at him. Later on the village green, Bunyan was playing tip-cat (rounders) and after two strikes heard a voice from heaven, "Wilt thou leave thy sins and go to heaven, or have thy sins and go to hell?" He dropped the cat (bat) and looked to heaven and felt Jesus looking down at him. Bunyan left his foul language and began reading the Bible and his life was being changed. Bunyan’s wife would also read to him from the books given them at their marriage. While his external ‘godliness’‚ may have been growing, he still had to learn how a person was justified. He overheard four women discussing "the New Birth" and wanted what they had. He began to read Paul’s epistles more extensively and cried to God to know the truth. He spoke to the women - some founding members of the Independent church in Bedford - and also to John Gifford now installed there as the pastor at St. John’s. He often visited Gifford in the rectory and began attending St. John’s. He was baptised in 1653 in the River Ouse - probably at night. His experience at this time was later written as "Grace Abounding to the Chief of Sinners". Bunyan began preaching around the time of Gifford‚s death (1655) or just afterwards, recognising it as a God-given gift. In 1656 the church after solemn prayer appointed Bunyan to public preaching. As his Biblical knowledge increased, he commenced itinerant preaching. A number of churches in five counties from around Bedford claim that their foundation was due to Bunyan’s preaching. With his great burden for the salvation of men and women, the Bedford church appointed him a deacon in 1657. The next year after the birth of their fourth child, his wife died before Bunyan was thirty years of age. He was heartbroken. In September 1660 John Burton - the pastor who followed John Gifford - died. At the same time a Church of England rector was installed at St. Johns and the Independent congregation was without a place to meet. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page145 For the welfare of his family including his blind daughter Mary, Bunyan decided he needed to remarry and he wed Elizabeth early in 1660. With the restoration of the monarchy that year, the magistrates began to enforce Anglicanism, which placed enormous pressure on the Puritans and the Independent church at Bedford. In November 1660, Bunyan was scheduled to preach at Lower Samsell near Harlington. As he arrived he was told of a warrant for his arrest but continued. Almost before the first prayer was over he was arrested and sent to the county gaol in Bedford. Bunyan’s family who lived just five minutes away from the gaol in St. Cuthbert’s Street felt the pressure. Elizabeth his wife went into premature labour and gave birth to a stillborn child. Bunyan was then arraigned in the Chapel of Herne at the County Quarter Sessions in January 1661. He was charged that he "hath devilishly and perniciously abstained from coming to church to hear Divine service, and is a common upholder of several unlawful meetings and conventicles" He was sentenced to three month’s imprisonment with the following - "if you do not submit to go to church to hear divine service, and leave your preaching you Must be banished from the realm." Bunyan replied respectfully to the judge, "Sir, as to this matter, I am at a point with you; for if I am out of prison today, I will preach the gospel again tomorrow ˆ by the help of God." He said he would stay in gaol "till moss grow on his eyelids rather than fail to do what God commended." Later he wrote of Sir John Kelynge as Lord Hategood of Vanity Fair in his book "Pilgrim’s Progress". The gaolers later permitted some favours. He was allowed his Bible and his concordance. It was at this time that Mary his blind daughter would take him soup in an earthenware jug now in the museum. At this time he was sometimes released for preaching or attending church, then returned to prison. He supported his family by making hundreds of gross of leather shoelaces and selling them to those who passed the gaol. His wife Elizabeth worked with him to prepare a petition for his release. Late in the spring of 1661 she travelled to the House of Lords in London but was told it was a matter for the local Assize hearings in Bedford. Elizabeth then presented her case before Sir Matthew Hale. Then later she went to the Swan Hotel and made her way past officials while a meeting was in progress and addressed the two judges. Finally after some delay in the proceedings, she was asked if her husband would cease his preaching? "My Lord, he dares not leave preaching as long as he can speak". Bunyan remained in prison until 1666. From Prison he wrote "Profitable Meditations" and then "Christian Behaviour". This was followed by "The Holy City". From 1667 to 1672 he wrote "Pilgrim’s Progress", published 1678. By 1692 over 100,000 copies were in print in English alone! When Communist China printed "Pilgrim Progress" - the initial printing of 200,000 sold out in three days. He rode on horseback in heavy rain from Reading to London, contracted a fever Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page146 and died August 31, 1688. The next year 1689, the Act of Toleration gave Dissenter's and Non-Conformists the right to worship and preach. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page147 APPENDIX 13 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN GIFFORD During the Civil War John Gifford was a major in the Parliamentary army. He was widely known as a blasphemer, a drunkard, and a gambler. At the battle of Maidstone in Kent, 1400 soldiers of the Parliamentary army surrendered including Gifford. Most were soon released but because of his rank Gifford and eleven others were kept in jail pending hanging. The night before his execution (for cowardice and failing to obey orders) he was visited by his sister. She saw the guards drunk and asleep and helped him escape. After a short time in London (in disguise) he married and came to Bedford and started out as a doctor. Gifford was still a very heavy drinker and an inveterate gambler. After losing a very large amount of money one night, he blasphemed God and almost became suicidal. Shortly thereafter, he read a Puritan book written by Thomas Bolton from Oxford and became converted. Then he gave up his medical practice and became the minister for the nonconformists in 1650 meeting in the Church of St. John. In this position John Bunyan found Gifford to be a friend and excellent interpreter of Scripture. Gifford died after five years of ministry in 1655. He is buried in the churchyard of St. John’s in Bedford. APPENDIX 14 BIOGRAPHY OF THOMAS BILNEY Was born either in East Bilney or Norwich around 1495. He was short of stature and was known as “Little Bilney”. He was a shy and gentle person. He was sent to Cambridge University and became a resident of Trinity Hall College. He was a student of Law – Civil Law and Canon Law. When aged around 24 years, he was ordained to the priesthood in 1519 by the Bishop of Ely. He was of a serious mind and strove by fasting, long vigils and masses and the purchase of indulgences to find peace of mind. He felt empty of spiritual life and appealed to priests for help, but found none even though confessing all his sins. Despite penances, fasting and even paying for masses and the purchase of pardons – inner peace eluded him. The next year 1520 he graduated from the degree of Bachelor of Law. The same year he was made a Fellow of Trinity Hall. Foxe in writing of Bilney wrote that he usually slept about four hours per night. He abhorred singing – or even flute playing. In 1519 Erasmus published Novem Testamentum (New Testament in Greek) and Bilney heard of this new book from his friends but it was a forbidden book. Finally Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page148 unable to resist his curiousity but with considerable fear, he purchased these words of life and secretly took it to his room to read. The book fell open at 1 Timothy 1:15 and he read “It is a true saying and worthy of all men to be embraced, that Christ Jesus came into the world to save sinners of whom I am the chief”. This verse became a beacon to him and words of life like water in a desert. Peace and comfort and joy replaced his despair. His hope was surely of Justification – Sola Fide, and not in his own merits. From this time Bilney became a devotee of the Word of God - never did he become weary of reading it. Unlike Luther, he did not break from his church. In 1521 a search was made for the banned books of Martin Luther and burnt in a bonfire at Cambridge. Erasmus who had been a lecturer at Cambridge then published Novum Instumentum. He led and joined a group who met regularly at The White Horse Inn for Christian discussion. They included Thomas Arthur, John Thistle, George Stafford, Matthew Parker, Miles Coverdale and probably William Tyndale. Being a timid and shy person he did not at first preach the Word boldly. He made prayer his first vocation - pleading for souls - and God answered him. Great men of the English Reformation - Arthur, Thistle and Stafford were the first to respond to his sharing the great truths of the Word of God. Hugh Latimer who was a graduate of Cambridge in his inaugural address as a Master of Arts with a Divinity degree, railed against the new heresies attacking Melanchthon. Bilney was present and recognised Latimer had the same uncertainties in his life as he had had. Bilney sought out Latimer then – it was 1524 – and asked Latimer to hear his confession. Bilney outlined his own spiritual journey and shared how 1 Tim 1:15 meant so much to him and the Holy Spirit touched, softened and changed Latimer’s heart. Latimer who had been extremely conservative in his belief now found the glorious news of the Gospel. Others such as Barnes, Lambert, Warner, Fooke and Soude were also converted and found their Saviour as Bilney had. Bilney was responsible for the conversion of more great men among the English Reformers than anyone else. Hence he has been called “The Forgotten Reformer” as well as “The Father of the English Reformation”. After Latimer was converted to the great truths of salvation many students flocked to hear Bilney preach. He had the secret power gained by long hours on his knees in his closet. He prayed “O Thou who art the truth, give me strength that I may teach it; and convert the ungodly by means of one who has been ungodly himself”. He often converted large numbers by pointing to the text 1 Timothy 1:15 and telling of his own experience. At this time he joined for a time with John Frith and William Tyndale preaching repentance and conversion, and specifically mentioned that priests could not forgive sin and good works don’t save. He became the leader of the Protestant group at Cambridge. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page149 As a result of his life and preaching the students of seven colleges were in full ferment with the established church. Bilney overcame his shyness and preached with the vigour of an evangel. Bilney sought out the poor, the sick and the lepers and brought physical assistance and spiritual guidance to them. He regularly ate but one meal per day and took the other meals provided to him to prison inmates. That year 1524 Cardinal Wolsey had completed a dazzling new College at Oxford university, now known as Christ’s Church and brought scholars from Cambridge (who happened to be Gospel orientated) including Richard Cox, John Frith and Bilney. In 1525 he obtained a licence to preach in the diocese of Ely. With Arthur he left the university and preached in Suffolk. At Hadleigh many were converted - reading their Bibles and understanding the great truths and memorising great portions of Scripture. Twice monks pulled him out of the pulpit. His denunciation of saint and relic worship and of monkish conduct and of pilgrimages brought him before the attention of Cardinal Wolsey. In 1525 a trial of Robert Barnes took place. He was accused of preaching ‘heresy’ and sedition was forced to recant and jailed. In 1526 Latimer and Bilney had been forbidden to teach any of the Luther doctrines – under oath. By 1527 Bilney and Thomas Arthur preached on a tour of Norwich and district. Now Bilney is again arraigned before Wolsey and the bishops. On December 7, he agreed to abjure and the next day stood in front of St. Paul’s Cross with a faggot on his shoulder, filled with shame and remorse. Despite his ‘recanting’ he was returned to prison in the Tower of London for perhaps a full year, then made his way back to Cambridge in abject despair. By 1528 signs of an explosion of heresy at Oxford was traced back to the professors who came from Cambridge. For two years Bilney was inconsolable - tortured by remorse. In 1530 Wolsey died and the group of friends met at the White Horse Inn. Bilney regained his faith and spirit, and determined never again to renounce the truth of God’s Woird. One night at 10 o’clock in 1531 he bade goodbye to his friends and said, ‘he must go up to Jerusalem’ and made his way to Norwich, preaching in the fields and meadows having been denied the use of the churches as his licence was revoked. Here he was arrested at Norwich by Bishop Nix. He was tried and degraded from the priesthood. Matthew Parker came to be with Bilney for his ordeal and met with him the night before his martyrdom. Bilney was of good cheer and quoted Isaiah 43:1-3. Bilney showed his lack of fear by putting his finger into the flame of a candle till it was burnt to the first joint to show that God would stick by him. His martyrdom date is questioned being either March 10 or August 19 in 1531 (both dates are quoted by Foxe). He talked to those gathered and recited the Apostles Creed and knelt and prayed – a mighty witness for his faith. He recited the Psalm 143 repeating the second verse and then said, “I stretch forth my hands unto Thee; my soul thirsteth after Thee”. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page150 He was then burnt at the Lollards Pit in Norwich watched by a vast crowd of spectators. As the flames came about him he called our “Jesus” and “I believe”. Bibliography: “The Oxford Dictionary of the Christian Church” – article Thomas Bilney Wikipedia entry for Thomas Bilney “Masters of the English Reformation” by Marcus Loane – Banner of Truth 2005 “Thomas Bilney the Forgotten Reformer” by Stuart Fisher (1998) APPENDIX 15 BIOGRAPHY OF ROBERT BARNES Robert Barnes was born around 1495. He received an education at Cambridge graduating in 1523 with his DD. He was a member of the Austin Friars and later became their prior. He was a member of the group meeting in the White Horse Inn where not only Bible readings were held but intense theological discussions. Thus he was associated with Thomas Bilney, Latimer and Ridley. This group examined Luther’s writings and used Erasmus’ New Testament as well. Barnes preached a sermon at the Christmas Midnight Mass at St. Edwards Church in 1525. In his sermon he attacked clerical worldliness and to some extent the church. This sermon has been referred to as the ‘birthplace of the English Reformation’ and St Edward’s Church as that cradle. Early the next year he was called to answer to the vice-chancellor for his preaching, and later was examined by Cardinal Wolsey and four other bishops. At the meeting he was condemned to abjure or be burnt. He chose the former and was sent to the Fleet prison and then on to the Austin Friars in London. In 1528 he escaped and went to Antwerp in Belgium. During his time on the Continent he went to Wittenberg and became acquainted directly with Martin Luther. In 1531 Barnes returned to England and was one of the chief intermediaries between the English government and Lutheran Germany. He was sent to Germany in 1535 to try and get support from Lutheran theologians for Henry VIII’s divorce from Catherine of Aragon. He was also involved in negotiations to have Anne of Cleves’s marriage to Henry. Henry VIII refused to adopt Luther’s theology and by then he was disgusted with Anne of Cleves. By June1540 Barnes’ friends had either been sent to the Tower or executed including Thomas Cromwell. Thus Barnes with no protectors was burnt at the stake on 30 July 1540. Along with him on the same day, William Jerome and Thomas Gerrard were also burnt for heresy; and three others – Thomas Abel, Richard Fetherstone and Edward Powell were hanged the same day for treason for denying the king’s supremacy. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page151 Barnes wrote a number of books including a “Confession of Faith” and “The Lives of the Roman Pontiffs”. APPENDIX 16 BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE MEULLER He was born in 1805 in Germany – Prussia. Followed the pleasures of life. Mother died when he was14 yrs old – at the time he was partying and drunk By 16 yrs he was a liar, thief, swindler, drunkard and found himself in jail In 1825 entered University of Halle. While there he turned to the Lord. Humility became a mark of his life. Trusted God for everything. In 1829 he left Germany for London to train as a missionary to the Jews In 1832 he became the pastor to Brethren church. This was in the city of Bristol and he ministered for 66 yrs. He read the biography of a A.H. Francke who was a Pietist in Halle. Francke established orphanage and he trusted God for everything. George Mueller began to work with poor of Bristol. He wanted to trust Lord in everything and to bring every need to Him in prayer. Within 1 year of coming to Bristol he established 2 Sunday Schools, 2 Adult Schools, and 6 Day Schools In 1834 founded the Scriptural Knowledge Institute (SKI) Nearly 50 years later SKI had 72 day Schools with 7000 students in Bristol, Italy, Spain, and South America. He believed he should provide for orphans so he opened an orphanage. Within 1 year there were 100 orphans but 35 years later – 2000 orphans He Believed – No debts and No patronage of the World. This was trusting God to the limit. Nothing was too small to bring to Lord in prayer. He had an unshakeable faith in God’s providing Hand. Talking to the matron, visitors said, You can’t run these institutions without good stock funds. Her reply – “Our funds deposited in a bank which cannot break!” A donation was given at that time – there were NO FUNDS at all in hand. Mueller never accumulated a surplus, but he relied on Lord daily. He married a lady Mary Groves in 1830 – she was 8 yrs older than him. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page152 She died in 1870 when Mueller 65 years old. At 70 years of age he left the orphanages to his son-in-law to manage, He began speaking on world-wide missionary tours. He travelled 250,000 miles in 17 years when aged from 70 to 87, through 42 countries. He died at age 93, poor with few possessions. Today the Orphanages are part of the City of Bristol Technical College – Brunel Campus. APPENDIX 17 BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE WHITEFIELD Whitefield was born in Gloucester 16 December 1714. His parents owned a tavern, The Bell Inn, and as a youngster, George often served the patrons of the Inn. His father died when he was two years of age and when eight years of age his mother remarried Capel Longden an ironmonger. At twelve years of age he enrolled at St. Mary de Crypt Grammar School where he enjoyed reading plays and acting. When George was fourteen, his mother left her husband, and George left The Bell Inn ‘drawing wine for drunkards’. When sixteen years of age he re-entered St. Mary de Crypt Grammar School and that Christmas received communion for the first time determining to be more careful with his words and actions. In 1732, Whitefield entered Pembroke College at Oxford and was a servitor (a message boy for senior more well to do students) to find funds. Charles Wesley violated Oxford conventions by inviting George Whitefield – a servitor – to breakfast. At Oxford he commences praying three times a day and fasting once a week. The next year he was invited by John Wesley to join the “Holy Club”. He was influenced by reading Henry Scougal’s “The Life of God in the Soul of Man” which taught all must be born again – or be damned. In 1734 he embarked on further severe self-disciplinary measures and found his health broken – this dogged him all his life. In 1735 after five years of penitence, he became the first of the Oxford Methodists to find ‘a full assurance of faith broke in upon my disconsolate soul’. He began evangelising and organised his converts into a society. In 1736, with the Wesleys now in America, he led the Holy Club. He also completed his degree studies and was ordained a deacon in the Church of England. He began graduate studies but left for preaching and on plans to go to Georgia (where the Wesleys were). He preached first in Bristol and London and thousands packed the churches to hear him. Charles Wesley was invited to join Whitefield in outdoor preaching. He recoiled in embarrassment. Whitefield simply announced Charles Wesley would preach at Moorfields the next Sunday. Charles went and found 10,000 waiting to hear him. John Wesley was very reluctant to be an outdoor preacher when encouraged by Whitefield. He wrote in his Journal in 1739, he ‘submitted to be more vile and in Bristol preached outdoors to workers coming from the shipyards’. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page153 In 1738 Whitefield spent just three months in Georgia. He was concerned with slavery in America writing, “your dogs are caressed and fondled at your tables; but your slaves who are frequently styled dogs or beats, have not an equal privilege. They are scarce permitted to pick up the crumbs which fall from their master’s tables”. The next year 1739, he was ordained a priest, but by then many pulpits were closed to him and he commenced preaching outdoors. Later in the same year, he sailed again for America and preached to crowds in New York and Philadelphia, being credited with sparking “The Great Awakening”. George Whitefield was a spellbinding orator. It is said of him that he was born with a capital “C” for charisma. Preaching across eastern America, crowds of up to 12,000 listened to him. He commenced an orphanage at Bethesda in Georgia. In 1741 he returned to England and found great hostility – stirred by John Wesley’s attacks against his Calvinism. Wesley had written on two topics against Whitefield – predestination and perfection – one sermon published being “Free Grace”. He wrote against Wesley who was an Arminian. Despite their opposition to each other, Whitefield and Wesley made peace, particularly after Whitefield left the leadership of his Calvinistic Methodist societies. In 1741, Whitefield married a widow, Elizabeth James. In 1741 and 1742 he preached extensively in England and then more in Scotland. His hearers were often reduced to weeping. While supported by the Countess of Huntingdon, the Duchess of Buckingham found it “repulsive” that Whitefield tried “to level all ranks and do away with all distinctions”. She said it was “monstrous to be told that you have a heart as sinful as the common wretches that crawl upon the earth. This is highly offensive and insulting….so much at variance with high rank and good breeding”. He was an intense, emotional and dramatic preacher – probably a development of his early acting at St. Mary’s. He could speak to an audience in the open air up to 30,000. In 1743 he organised the Welsh Calvinistic Methodist Association. His four-month old son dies 8 February 1744. Later that year he was beaten by an intruder while sleeping and almost killed – yet does not prosecute his attacker. He is accused of being a spiritual pickpocket. He wrote that he had been supplanted, despised, censured, maligned, and judged. For three years 1745 – 48 he again visited America and his preaching brought a great revival. He completed his tour in Bermuda. In 1748 back in England, Lady Huntingdon appoints Whitefield as her chaplain. He preached again throughout England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland and centred his ministry at Moorfields Tabernacle in London. In May 1750 after hearing Whitefield preach, John Thorpe and three friends went to a tavern and began mimicking Whitefield. John Thorpe grabbed a Bible and jumped on the table and said to his friends – “I’ll do better than you”. He saw the verse “except ye repent, ye shall all likewise perish” was struck with his sinfulness and stopped his mocking charade and began preaching in earnest – becoming two years later, one of John Wesley’s itinerant preachers. Whitefield made another visit to America in 1751 and 1752. On a subsequent visit in 1754, he received an honorary MA degree from the College of New Jersey (now Princeton University). Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page154 The balance of his life was spent preaching across Britain with two further short trips to America. Although not original or innovative in his theology, Whitefield was an articulate, intelligent, clear-minded communicator. He preached his final sermon in New Hampshire 29 September 1770 and died the next morning aged 55 years. One Whitefield’s death, Charles Wesley wrote a eulogy and by Whitefield’s request, John Wesley preached the sermon. Some 6000 people attended his funeral service. APPENDIX 18 BIOGRAPHY OF WILLIAM TYNDALE William Tyndale was born between 1490 and 1494 in Gloucestershire, England. He attended the University of Oxford. Tyndale was appointed an instructor at the University of Cambridge. While there in 1521 he joined a humanist group which met at the White Horse Inn. Tyndale came to accept that the Bible alone should determine the practices and doctrines of the church. He also believed that every believer should be able to read the Bible in his own language. Being prevented in England by the church authorities from translating the Bible, he went to Germany in 1524. He received financial support from wealthy London merchants. Tyndale completed the translation of the New Testament in 1525 and had it printed at Cologne. When suppressed by the Catholic authorities he moved to Worms. In 1526 the first copies reached England. He commenced work on the translation of the Old Testament. Before this was completed he was captured by his enemies in Antwerp, Belgium. Tyndale was martyred at Vilvorde, Belgium on 6 October 1536. At the time of his death 40,000 copies of his New Testament had been printed – the first of the Bible in English. Tyndale’s translation was extensively used as a basis for subsequent translations including the King James Bible of 1611. APPENDIX 19 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN WYCLIFFE His name is often spelt as ‘Wyclif”. Wycliffe born either in 1330 in the hamlet of Spresswell near the River Tees in the North Riding of Yorkshire. Today Spresswell is no more but half a mile away is the village of Wicliffe. He came to Oxford in 1346 (16 years of age). He probably attended Balliol College. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page155 While at Oxford the Black Death passed through in 1349 and 1353 and greatly influenced his seriousness and preaching. He was enrolled at Merton College in 1356 and shortly in after 1361 was a Master of Balliol College. While at Merton he would have studied under Bradwardine who taught evangelistic views as well as being the greatest mathematician. In that year Wycliffe published his first treatise “The Last Age of the Church” – he was around 32 years of age. It is said Wycliffe had a quick apprehension, a penetrating intellect and a retentive memory. Just after becoming master of Balliol College on 16 May 1361 saw him appointed to the rich living of the rectorship at Fillingham in Lincolnshire which provided him income for his studies. In 1365 he was appointed by Simon Islip the Archbishop of Canterbury to be warden of Canterbury Hall – a new college at Oxford. A year later when Islip died, Peter Langham the new archbishop displaced him. Wycliffe appealed to Rome, but Langham had more influence there. England had been made a fiefdom by King John in 1215, but the 1000 marks had not been paid in the 14th century for 33 years when a letter of demand came from Pope Urban V in 1365. The letter of demand was placed before parliament in 1366 with Wycliffe present. As ‘the king’s Peculiar Clerk’ Wycliffe answered the claim of the pontiff. He received his Batchelor of Divinity in 1369 and his doctorate in 1372. John Wycliffe was the leading theologian and philosopher at Oxford in the 14th century. Oxford was then Europe's most outstanding university. He became known as the “Gospel Doctor” when most renowned students even of theology studied philosophy and disdained the Scriptures. He demonstrated in his lectures what he would preach about on the Sunday and then preached to the people, being seen as a profound teacher and an eloquent preacher. Afterwards he spent most of his time in Queen's College Oxford In 1374 he was appointed rector of Lutterworth Also in 1374 he was appointed by King Edward one of four commissioners to meet Papal delegates at Bruges to complain of high taxes imposed by the papacy and the practice of appointing foreigners as bishops who took the stipend but sent poorly paid substitutes to do the duty. It was estimated that at this time the Pope received five times the revenue from England than did the King. He was disappointed the next year not to be made bishop of Worcester. As well as a keen mind, Wycliffe had a quick temper and a sustained capacity for invective. Few writers have dammed their opponents opinions and their opponents themselves more comprehensively. Even his enemies acknowledged the strength of his arguments and the vehemence and force of his reasoning. He was summoned to London 1377 to answer charges of heresy. He appeared at St Pauls. He wrote against the Eucharist on May 22, 1377. Pope Gregory XI issued five seething bulls against Wycliffe - sent them to the King, the archbishop of Canterbury and to Oxford. 18 errors were cited from his "On Civil Dominion". Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page156 Oxford refused to condemn her outstanding scholar He faced bishops at Lambeth in 1378. Wycliffe was admonished to stop preaching his ideas and freed. Wycliffe cited to appear at Rome 1378, but he couldn't go The Queen Mother - widow of the Black Prince, interceded on behalf of Wycliffe at the trial at Lambeth. As a result of her intercession, no judgment was handed down. Wycliffe continued to teach at Oxford until 1381 when he was banished from the university and then resided at his parish church in Lutterworth. The Peasants' Revolt 1came in 1381. It was about this time Wycliffe began to publish and preach against the monks and friars. His document “Objections to Friars” was published in 1382. Wycliffe was condemned by the "Earthquake Council" at Blackfriars but he was not asked to be present. He was cut off from teaching and public life, he then translated the Bible into English from the Vulgate - his greatest contribution. A veritable torrent of writings came from his pen between1382 and 1384. He died at Mass on December 31, 1384, having lived and died a Catholic. Wycliffe had trained "poor preachers" or "Lollards" who travelled throughout England preaching to the common folk in their native tongue. The Council of Constance, 1415, condemned Wycliffe on 260 counts. His writings ordered to be burned. His bones to be exhumed and cast out of consecrated ground In 1428 at papal command, his remains were dug up and burned and his ashes scattered into the River Swift nearby the rectory at Lutterworth. Wycliffe wrote in his letter to Pope Urban VI just months before his death - "I am happy to reveal fully to anyone and especially to the Roman pontiff the faith I hold, for I suppose if it is orthodox, he will graciously confirm this faith and if it be erroneous he will correct it. But I submit that the gospel of Christ is the body of the law of God, that Christ, indeed, who directly gave this gospel, I believe to be true God and true man, and in this the law of the gospel excels all other parts of Scripture. Again I submit that the Roman pontiff, inasmuch as he is Christ's highest vicar on earth, is among pilgrims most bound to this law of the gospel. For the majority of Christ's disciples are not judged according to worldly greatness, but according to the imitation of Christ in their moral life. Again, from out of this heart of the Lord's law I plainly conclude that Christ was the poorest of men during the time of his pilgrimage and that he eschewed all worldly dominion. This is clear from the faith of the gospel, Matthew 8 and II Corinthians 8. From all this I deduce that never should any of the faithful imitate the pope himself nor any of the saints except insofar as he may have imitated the Lord Jesus Christ. For Peter, Paul, and the sons of Zebedee, by seeking worldly dignity, brought that sort of imitation into disrepute, so that they are not to be imitated in those errors. From this I infer, as a counsel, that the pope should leave temporal dominion to the secular arm, and to this he should effectually exhort his clergy. For in such wise did Christ have signified through his apostles. "If in the above I have erred, I am willing humbly to be corrected, even through death if necessary. And if I were able to travel at will in person, I should like humbly to visit the Roman pontiff. But God has obliged me to the contrary, and he has always taught me to obey God rather than men. But since God has given our pope true and evangelical instincts, we should pray that those instincts are not extinguished through deceitful counsel, nor that the pope or cardinals be moved to do anything contrary to the law of the Lord. Therefore, let us ask God, the Lord of everything created, that he so inspire our pope, Urban VI, as he began, so that he and his Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page157 clergy may imitate the Lord Jesus Christ in their moral lives, so that they may effectually teach the people to faithfully imitate them in this. And let us pray spiritually that our pope be preserved from malicious counsel, for we also know that a man's enemies are of his household, and God does not suffer us to be tempted above that which we are able, much less does he require of any creature that he do that which he can not, for such is the manifest condition of Antichrist." In 1521 at the Diet of Worms, Luther was accused of renewing the errors of Wycliffe and Hus by making the Scriptures his final authority. Bibliography Two Noble Lives by D.J. Deane S.W. Partridge & Co London Wikipedia Article Wycliffe Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page158 APPENDIX 20 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN ROBINSON He was born about 1575 to John and Ann Robinson of Sturton-le-Steeple in Nottinghamshire. He was schooled at the Queen Elizabeth’s Grammar School Gainsborough until sixteen years of age. Then in 1592, he became a student at Corpus Christi College at Cambridge. He was on track to become a minister of the Church of England. However while at Cambridge, Robinson would be influenced deeply by William Perkins the Puritan theologian and preacher. He copied Perkins preaching style. John Robinson graduated with a BA in 1596 having Puritan theology and Separatist leanings. He stayed on at Cambridge as a teacher. Cambridge at the time was firmly influenced by Puritanism. The Puritans believed in the independence of each church congregation and were opposed to any form of church hierarchy. In 1597 he was ordained and was chosen to be a fellow of Corpus Christi College. In 1599 he graduated from there with an MA. He became a leader in the controversy sweeping the country. He resigned his fellowship in 1603 to become parish minister at St. Andrews church at Norwich in Norfolk. There his old mentor William Perkins was the lecturer On 10 February 1604 Robinson resigned his teaching position at Cambridge – possibly because married men were prohibited from teaching at Cambridge. Just five days later on 15 February 1604 Robinson married Bridget White. During their life they had 7 children. Later that year he became the pastor of St Andrews Church in Norwich. In 1605 Robinson was suspended from his position at St. Andrews when James 1 enforced the “Ecclesiastical Constitution and Canons” by Archbishop Richard Bancroft. Robinson, as did most Pilgrims, did not choose to become a Separatist either easily or in haste. However the strict intolerance of the Church of England finally forced them to this position. In 1606 he met with Richard Clyfton, Richard Bernard, and John Smyth and other clergy who were deeply concerned with the state of the church, and who had also been excluded from their pulpits. They met in the home of Lady Bowes of Coventry. Thomas Helwys also attended – he established the first Baptist Church in England. Here Robinson became an ardent Separatist. In that year1606 Robinson finally left the Church of England. Along with Clyfton, Robinson led and guided the Scrooby Separatists, a group of about one hundred members. He also was associated with a group in Gainsborough who met at Gainsborough Old Hall under the protection of Sir William Hickman. William Bradford later wrote of the covenant made by the Separatists there: “They shook off this yoke of antichristian bondage, and as the Lord’s free people joined themselves (by a covenant with the Lord) in the fellowship of the gospel, to Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page159 walk in all His ways made known, or to be made known unto them, according to their best endeavours, whatsoever it should cost them, the Lord assisting them.” The covenant but in an enlarged form was made at the first meeting at the Scrooby Manor Church. It was William Bradford who called the group ‘Pilgrims and Strangers” – the name Pilgrims staying with the group. At Scrooby, Robinson was very closely involved with Richard Clyfton the pastor, and William Brewster the local postmaster and the leading elder. Robinson himself became the teacher. By 1607 these Separatists of Nottinghamshire were forbidden to worship. It was also illegal to flee the country, although some English Separatists from 1593 were already in Amsterdam - where there was freedom of worship. Selling what possessions they could, the group contracted with an English ship’s captain to take them from Boston to the Netherlands. Small groups made their way by foot, horse and cart, or by barges to Boston. The group nervously waited by the banks of Scotia Creek – down river from Boston. They finally boarded the ship in the darkness of the night and paid the captain his exorbitant fee, only to find that as soon as they were on board that they had been betrayed and the king’s officers arrived and arrested them. Clyfton, Robinson and Brewster were locked up in the cells under the Boston Guildhall. All but seven were soon released. All were ordered to return to Scrooby. Robinson and the other leaders would have been led up the narrow spiral staircase from the cells to the courtroom to stand trial. After some time they regained their freedom. The group of Pilgrims tried again to escape – this time in the middle of 1608 from Immingham, some 8 km north of Grimsby. With the late arrival of the Dutch ship, and because of the low tide, the Dutch captain used the longboat to bring most of the men on board. Large numbers of English troops then appeared and the ship immediately sailed away leaving the wives and children on the barge stuck in the low tide mud. John Robinson, William Brewster and Richard Clyfton were left on the barge with the women and children. After appearing before several magistrates, the Separatists were finally allowed to leave, and by August 1608 the group was united again in Amsterdam, and joined with other groups already there. In the English Church in the Begijnhof, Amsterdam, are memorials to the Pilgrim Fathers. As you enter the church a plaque reads: “To the glory of God in Christ Jesus, this tablet is placed here by a company of the clergy of the Reformed Church in America a lineal descendant of the Church of Holland as a tribute to the Pilgrim Fathers who settled first in the City of Amsterdam in Holland, the country of their asylum, a shining exemplar of civil and religious liberty, many of whose institutions transmitted to America through the English Pilgrims and the Dutch who settled in New York, have given to the New World a distinctive character.” Inside the church has a stained glass window showing Robinson committing the Pilgrims to God as they leave to depart on the Speedwell at Delfshaven. There is also a plaque noting the sojourn of the Pilgrim here from Scrooby and mentioning the names of Ainsworth, Johnson, Robinson, Brewster and Bradford. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page160 One of Robinson’s books “Justification of Separation from the Church of England” was published in Amsterdam in 1610 and is probably the greatest defense of Separatist theology. Divisions soon plagued the group in Amsterdam and in 1609 many left for Leyden where John Robinson was publicly ordained as their minister. The group grew with others coming from England until the group numbered several hundred. In 1615 John Robinson had become an honorary member of the University of Leiden. Finally with religious liberty conditions deteriorating in Holland, the commencement of the Thirty Years Religious War in 1618, and factors making it desirous for the Pilgrims to have a home without ‘worldly’ influences for their children, the decision was made to emigrate to the New World. The Deacon - John Carver, and Robert Cushman went to London to negotiate with the London Company for passage for the group to the New World. It was decided that the younger members of the church would emigrate first and if the majority wished to proceed then John Robinson would accompany them. However only about 55 of the congregation decided to sail on the Speedwell. Brewster was one of those and Robinson remained in Holland. At the farewell address to the Pilgrims leaving Leiden for Delfshaven and England and thence to North America, Robinson preached a message with these significant words as recorded by Edward Winslow: “And if God should reveal anything to us by any other instrument of his, to be as ready to receive it, as ever we were to receive any truth by his Ministry. For he was very confident the Lord had more truth and light to break forth out of his holy Word”. John Robinson passed to his rest in March 1625 and was buried in an unmarked grave in the Pieterskerk. A marble marker was placed on he building that occupied the site of Robinson’s home in Leyden. Bridge Robinson’s widow though about sailing to America in 1629 but changed her mind and died in Leyden in 1643. Later a tablet was erected in 1928 on the wall of St Peter’s Church saying, In memory of John Robinson, Pastor of the English Church in Leyden 1609 – 1625. His broadly tolerant mind guided and developed the Religious life of the Pilgrims of the Mayflower. Of him these walls enshrine all that was mortal. His undying spirit still dominates the consciences of a mighty nation in the Lad beyond he Seas” Bibliography: Wikipedia Article John Robinson APPENDIX 21 SYNOD OF WHITBY It was convened here by the King Oswiu of Northumbria with the Christian Churches in 663/664AD. The purpose was to decide whether to follow the Celtic Church practices or Roman Catholic Church practices. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page161 Northumbria was primarily a Celtic Church, however by 662 Quinn Ean fled and Bishop Wilfrid and other influential people followed the Romish church. The Celtic group was led by Bishop Colman and Bishop Cedd and Abbess Hilda. King Oswiu decided in favour of Rome – “following the teachings of Peter, the holder of the keys of heaven”. This Synod was very significant in that it led the way to the establishment of the Roman Church practices elsewhere in England. The Celtic Church began a move northwards to Scotland and westward to Wales. Another decision of this Synod was the adoption of the method of calculating Easter and this has been followed by the Church in Western Europe since that time. APPENDIX 22 BIOGRAPHY OF CAEDMON Caedmon was the first Old English Christian poet. He is mentioned in Bede’s Ecclesiastical History of the English People. Caedmon was an illiterate herdman. He left a group one night ashamed that he could not sing like the others. In a dream he was told by a “stranger” to sing “the Beginning of Things”. He said verses he had never heart before. The Abbess of Streaneshalch – now called Whitby, believed him to be inspired. He stayed at the monastery for he rest of his life, putting into verse Scriptural truths and stories. Various manuscripts are attributed to him, eg. Genesis, Exodus, Daniel etc. Caedmon composed a hymn to creation. He died in Whitby in 680AD. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page162 APPENDIX 23 BIOGRAPHY OF AIDAN He became the missionary to England and in particular that of Northumbria. Paulinus was a Roman bishop who came from Kent to Northumbria at the request of King Oswald’s father. On the death of Oswald’s father, the people lapsed into paganism and Paulinus fled. Oswald decided to call for a leader from Iona where Columba’s centre was now equal to that of a university and was impacting Scotland and northern England for the primitive Christianity of the apostles. Albert Henry Newman records that Augustine used pretended miracles, promised earthly advantages and then persuaded the King of Kent to make war with those of the non-Roman church. Aidan lived a simple life, his total rejection of riches and the authority of his preaching from the Scripture brought a transformation to Northumbria with conversions coming in large numbers and establishing the Celtic Church in the north of England. Bede affirms that he taught what he lived. He also records Aidan’s refusal to accept papal doctrines but to follow the Scriptures and the apostles. Aidan was also known as a man of prayer. Aidan established training schools and colleges. One of these was on Lindisfarne Island. This centre became for England what Iona had done for Scotland. He has been called “The Apostle of England” by Edward Hulme. Thus the Celtic Church had grown and had a powerful hold on the country by the time Augustine landed in Kent. Aidan then founded Melrose Abbey as it is known today just inside Scotland. Whitby also became another stronghold of the Celtic Church where Hilda was the abbess and Caedmon the singing poet lived. This became a strong theological seminary. Aidan died in 651AD and was succeeded by Finan and later Colman. APPENDIX 24 BIOGRAPHY OF JOHN KNOX He was probably born at Giffordgate in Haddington some 30 km east of Edinburgh around 1514 though some say it was earlier around 1505. He came from middle-class parents. His father died at the battle of Flodden in September 1513, the English vanquishing the invading Scots under James IV who also dies in the battle. He probably commenced his education at the Haddington Grammar School. He commenced studies at the University of St. Andrews in 1532. He was cognisant of Latin and French and when 40 years of age mastered Hebrew. He graduated from the University of St. Andrews in 1536. He became a priest in 1540 and also practised law from then as an apostolic notary. He also became a tutor. Around 1545 he came to be associated with George Wishart while Wishart was on a preaching tour of Lothian. Knox admired his views, became a Protestant and at times acted as his bodyguard. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page163 After Cardinal Beaton of St. Andrews had George Wishart burnt at the stake outside the castle in March 1545, Knox who was then living in St. Andrews as a tutor to sons of a rich lord, became a spokesman and protagonist for the Reformed Church. John Knox was very reluctant to become a preacher and had refused. However John Rough the minister at the Holy Trinity Church preached a sermon and in the middle challenged Knox to take up the role with the backing of the congregation. Knox was persuaded to commence preaching. His first sermon was in the Holy Trinity Church St. Andrews on the subject of Daniel 7:24,25, and denounced the Roman Catholic church and system. From this time onward he was convinced the Lord had called him to preach. Of his hundreds of sermons, only two were ever published. At this time the Catholic Church owned more than half of the real estate of Scotland and received an income 18 times that of the Crown. In 1547 Knox and others in the Castle of St. Andrews were captured by the French who had come to the aid of the governor of Scotland. John Knox was taken prisoner and served for 19 months in the French galleys as a slave. During this time he contracted a kidney infection and stomach ulcers – health problems that stayed with him for the rest of his life. While in the galleys, an attempt was made to have the Protestant prisoners acknowledge Mary the mother of Jesus. Their galley was named “Notre Dame” (Our Lady) and during the celebration of Mass while the ship was at Nantes, the Salve Regina (Hail holy Queen) was sung and a little statue of Mary brought around for all to kiss. Knox refused but it was thrust in his face. Later when no one was looking, he threw the statue overboard saying, “Now let Our Lady save herself!” By 1548 England was becoming Protestant under Edward VI and Knox could not return to Scotland under Catholic leadership, so be began preaching in England – at Berwick-on-the-Tweed. Here he would have met Marjory Bowes whom he later married. Once a would-be assassin fired a shot through a window where he usually sat with his back to the street. That night, he had sat in another chair, and the bullet passed through the chair he usually sat in and then through the chandelier. Truly it could be said of Knox that he provoked rulers, incited riots and inspired a reformation in Scotland. Knox helped shape the articles of the Church of England and the part of the Book of Common Prayer that denies the actual body of Christ in the read of the Communion. Knox became an imitator of English Puritanism. He became the royal chaplain and preached to audiences with very distinguished listeners. He was offered the bishopric of Rochester but declined. When called before the Privy Council which expressed its regret over his declining the invitation, and its sadness that he was of a contrary mind; he said he was more sorry that a common order should be contrary to Christ’s institution. He disputed the practice of kneeling at communion. When Mary Tudor became the Sovereign, Knox was one of the last to flee to the continent of Europe in 1553. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page164 In 1560 by an act of the Scottish Parliament, the authority of the pope was abolished in Scotland, the celebration of the mass was prohibited and a Confession of Faith passed. Knox had much to do with these changes. Knox became the opposer of three queens or leaders – Mary of Guise who was the Regent of Scotland (1554 – 1560), Mary Queen of Scots (1561 – 1567) who summoned Knox five times, and Mary Tudor (1553 – 1558) the object of his first blast. To prevent the Reformation being dictated by one ruler, he preached the right of subjects etc to resist by force, a ruler who threatened the safety of ‘true religion’. The next year on the urging of John Calvin, Knox became the minister of English Puritan refugees in Frankfurt. In 1555 after being in Frankfurt just a few months, a dispute arose over liturgy and he moved to Geneva. He returned secretly to Scotland and married Marjory Bower – despite the lack of her father’s approval. In 1556 he is condemned for heresy in Scotland and returns to Geneva with his wife and mother-in-law. While in Geneva he was associated with Calvin and learned much from him, staying in Geneva for five years. In 1558 he wrote “The First Blast of the Trumpet against the Monstrous Regiment of Women”. In 1559, after Mary Queen of Scots had summoned the leaders of the Protestant faith to appear before her on 10 May, Knox was called from France to act as spokesperson for the Lairds and nobility of Scotland. He stopped at Perth and preached a vehement sermon following which the friaries were sacked. He celebrated the Lord’s Supper and forbade attendance at the Mass. Knox inspired the Scottish Protestants that year when it seemed that France would unite with the queen. In 1560 he drafted the Scots Confession which was adopted by the Scottish Parliament. His wife’s mother continued to live with him after Marjory died in 1560 leaving Knox open to charges of scandalous and incestuous behaviour. Knox helped shape the Scottish Church, and in 1561 wrote the “First Book of Discipline” – the constitution of the Reformed Church and also the “Book of Common Order” – its liturgy. It also recommended that every child in Scotland receive an elementary and a high school education – something not achieved for hundreds of years. Queen Mary arrived in Scotland in 1561. Knox had four confrontations with her. She tried to indict him for treason particularly when he preached against her proposed marriage with Don Carlos of Spain. The Privy Council would not convict him. In 1564, some four years after his first wife Marjory died (and he being 50 years of age) married 17 year-old Margaret Stewart – a distant relative of Mary Queen of Scots – his chief antagonist. One of the ways the Reformation spread through Scotland was by ‘Privy Kirks’ – small groups that met for prayer and Bible study. In 1566 he writes much of the “History of the Reformation of Religion in Scotland”. Knox suffered a paralytic stroke in 1571. He preached only once or twice after that – the last introducing his successor. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page165 Knox was always a controversial and colourful character. He died in Edinburgh 24 November 1572. On his deathbed he asked his wife to read to him John 18 which he said was “where I first cast my anchor”. He is buried in the grounds of St. Giles Cathedral (under car park 44). Today there are about 750,000 Presbyterians in Scotland – twice the number in Korea and over three million in the USA – and millions elsewhere around the world. Scotland welcomed him wherever he went. APPENDIX 25 SUMMARY OF THE “COVENANTERS” Primitive Scottish Christianity traces its roots back to the early Christian centuries. Columba brought Celtic Christianity to Iona and Scotland around the 6th century. After the Synod of Whitby (663/664), Celtic Christianity suffered a serious blow when King Oswiu decided in favour of the Church of Rome and Celtic Christianity retreated northwards to Scotland and westwards to Wales. When Margaret became wife of Malcolm III of Scotland in 1070 she commenced the elimination of the worship of the seventh day of the week and the institutionalism of the Catholic Church. John Knox came on the scene in the days of the Reformation and with a prayer “give me Scotland ere I die” instituted the Church of Scotland. Scottish Christians then became known as Presbyterians and during the 17th century and onwards as Covenanters. Charles I had decreed on the church in Scotland the Book of Canons in 1636 and followed up the next year by enforcing a liturgy without the agreement of Parliament. The word “Covenanter” was born from the signing by tens of thousands of Presbyterians of a “Covenant” in 1638 in Greyfriars Church in Edinburgh – and in other centres. This was a direct response to the impositions by Charles I. The signing of the Covenant – a Covenant between God and the Scottish nation was in protest over the introduction by Charles I of the episcopal form of government (governed by bishops) rather than the presbytery or local church governance. It also embodied the elements of the Reformed beliefs. The persecution of the Covenanters intensified after the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660 and Charles II who promised to uphold the “Covenant” began immediately with the secular powers to enforce the episcopal governance on the Scottish people. Hundreds of pastors rather than be ‘installed’ by the bishop and giving him allegiance took to the moors and glens to minister in conventicles and open air meetings in remote locations. The Marquis of Argyle and James Guthrie – a minister of the church in Stirling – were martyred. The ‘killing times’ were intensified between 1680 and 1685 when approximately 18,000 Covenanters were martyred. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page166 One of the leaders of the ‘killing times’ was John Graham of Claverhouse who led soldiers in hunting down Covenanters – anyone who would attend conventicles or not attend services presided over by the bishop or his ‘installed’ ministers. Many were imprisoned – some on Bass Rock – a rocky island off the coast east of Edinburgh. Others were often martyred and their heads often were shown on the gates of the Tolbooth in Edinburgh. As with the Camisards in France, the Covenanters were forced to fight for their rights and ill equipped and vastly outnumbered were usually defeated by the Royalist forces. The largest battle of Bothwell Bridge near Glasgow was fought on 22 June 1679 when 400 Covenanters were killed and 1200 taken prisoner and tied and marched to the “Covenanter’s Prison” in Greyfriars churchyard. This was the place where their grandparents had signed the Covenant. Many did not survive the winter in the open and most of the remainder were sent as slaves to Barbados. Many Covenanters are remembered for their heroic deeds of valour. To name a few – Richard Cameron, John Blackadder, James Berwick, Donald Cargill, James Renwick, etc. Two of the bravest were Margaret Wilson aged 18 years and Margaret McLauchlan aged 63 years who were drowned by tying them to stakes in the Solway Firth near Wigtown, letting the tide do their dastardly work. In 1688 when William and Mary of Orange came to the British throne, the persecution ceased and Presbyterianism was again re-established. Bibliography: “Men of the Covenant” by Alexander Smellie printed by Banner of Truth Trust. “Fair Sunshine” by Jock Purves – Banner of Truth Trust. “Alexander Peden” by John C. Johnston – Mourne Missionary Trust. “Tales of the Covenanters” by Robert Pollok – John Ritchie. “Tales and Sketches of the Covenanters” published by John M’Gready “The Scots Worthies” Howie – Edited by Andrew Bonar – John M’Gready “No King but Christ” by Maurice Grant – Evangelical Press “Traditions of the Covenanters” by Robert Simpson – Gall and Inglis “The Scottish Covenanters” by James Taylor – Hodder & Stoughton. Overseas Travel BRITAIN APPENDIX 26 POEMS OF THE SCOTTISH COVENANTERS VII PERSECUTION OF THE SCOTTISH COVENANTERS When Alpine Vales threw forth a suppliant cry, The majesty of England interposed And the sword stopped; the bleeding wounds were closed; And Faith preserved her ancient purity. How little boots that precedent of good, Scorned or forgotten, Thou canst testify, For England’s shame, O Sister Realm! from wood Mountain, and moor, and crowded street, where lie The headless martyrs of the Covenant, Slain by Compatriot-protestants that draw From councils senseless as intolerant Their warrant. Bodies fall by wild sword-law; But who would force the Soul tilts with a straw Against a Champion cased in adamant. THE MOUNTAIN SANCTUARY Bleak was the winter Sabbath morn, And dreary was the sky, When the persecuted left their caves, To worship the Most High. An unfrequented mountain-gorge Received a trembling flock; Their canopy was mist and clouds – Their altar was the rock. And from that lonely, rugged spot, Ascended, rich and rare, The incense of the contrite heart – The sacrifice of prayer. And angels, from the heights of heaven, Did look complacent down On the honour’s heads that soon would wear The martyr’s glorious crown. And grey-haired sires forget their griefs, And all their wrongs forgave, When they heard of Him whose power burst The barriers of the grave. And widows, poor and desolate, And homeless orphans, pray’d For pardon from the throne on high On their oppressor’s head. - from “Tales and Sketches of the Covenanters” Page167 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page168 APPENDIX 27 BIOGRAPHY OF GEORGE WISHART Born in 1513 the son of the Lord of Pitarrow. Through his mother he was related to royalty. His uncle William was Bishop of Glasgow and St. Andrews. Wishart studied at Aberdeen at Kings College and obtained his degree. He knew of Patrick Hamilton and his trial and martyrdom and his last confession: “As to my confession, I will not deny it for awe of your fire, for my confession and belief are in Christ Jesus. I will rather be content that my body burn in this fire for confession of my faith in Christ than my soul should burn in the fire of hell for denying Him”. He was then invited to be the Schoolmaster at Montrose on the Scottish coast. He taught Greek and used the Greek New Testament as a textbook. While there he was engaged to be married to Elizabeth but she died of the plague just before the wedding. Devastated by his loss, George Wishart read the message of John 14 from the Greek - it became a personal living experience and not just a textbook. He shared his newfound faith with parents. That year 1538, David Beaton became the Archbishop of St. Andrews and determined to stamp out heresy. Summoned to answer for his ‘heresy’ by the Bishop of Brechin, Wishart left for England and Cambridge, settling in at Corpus Christ College. Here he heard Bishop Latimer speak in the Master’s Lodge and later was invited to meet with Latimer at his church in West Kington where he was the priest. Latimer invited Wishart to Bristol for six months. and gave him a licence to preach. There he preached in St. Augustine’s monastery and St. Nicholas church. Tyndale had often preached in the Abbey of St. Augustine’s while tutoring the children of Sir John Welsh at Little Sodbury. Here in Bristol Wishart was accused of heresy and faced a commission which included Archbishop Cranmer and Bishop Latimer. Wishart had to show his retraction by carrying a lighted faggot down the aisles of the churches where he preached. Then with persecution on his heels he fled disguised to Europe - urged by Hugh Latimer and sailed from Bristol Wishart went first to Zurich in 1539 and there heard Bullinger – Zwingli’s successor preach and became a student at the theological college being influenced by Bullinger’s practical personal experience. It was here that Wishart clarified the primacy of the gospel in his thinking. He translated into English, the Confession of the Protestant Reformers of 1536 and 1537 Then he journeyed to Geneva and met with Calvin and appreciated his logic. While preaching to his exiled friends there, Wishart determined to return to Scotland and take the message of the gospel. He returned to Zurich then down the Rhine to Holland and by boat to England B first going to Cambridge, then he arranged the printing of the Helvetic Confession and proceeded to his home at Pitarrow. From there he continued back to Montrose and commenced teaching a Bible class on the Book of Romans. Invited to Dundee, Wishart taught and preached in St. Mary’s cathedral. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page169 Cardinal Beaton, with law and force of arms came to Dundee while Wishart hid B then resumed his series and left the city. Wishart went to Perth - the scene of recent persecution and killings by Beaton - and preached, then moved on to Ayr. The Archbishop surrounded the cathedral with his army but Wishart said, “let the Archbishop preach there - we will go to the common people. This was followed by revival preaching through the area. He then returned to Dundee in the midst of an outbreak of the plague and preached from the city gate - now called Wishart Gate. A priest, John Wighton, had been sent by Cardinal Beeton to murder Wishart - but Wishart averted the attack and the crowd wanted to lynch Wighton. Wishart said, “He who harms him harms me” and protected him. Despite ambushes - Wishart decided to go to Edinburgh, knowing that a confrontation with Beaton was coming. Preaching along the way he went to Longniddry and while there met John Knox. Then he preached at Haddington - the home of John Knox - but few came because of a ban by the Cardinal. Knox would protect Wishart - but Wishart sent Knox back to his home saying “One is sufficient for a sacrifice!” Wishart preached his last sermon at Ormiston. Then on the 13 January 1546 the Provincial Synod met and was adjourned by Beaton with the promise of ending the heretical preaching. With 500 soldiers, Beaton using the Earl of Bothwell took Wishart prisoner and conveyed him to Edinburgh Castle prison, then transferred him to St. Andrews Castle. Cardinal Beaton summoned Wishart to a Tribunal and had him taken to St. Andrews Cathedral on the 28 February 1546. There were 18 charges read against him but Wishart requested any Scriptural evidence of heresy. Convicted he was again lowered into the Bottle Dungeon and his execution fixed for the next day. The next day a stake was erected outside the Castle gate. Silk hangings and tapestries decorated the castle for the gala occasion. The Cardinal and his friends watched from the windows of the castle. His guards ate with him a last meal. Then as trumpets sounded, packets of gunpowder were tied to his body. He prayed his last prayer and exhorted his hearers. The one to light the faggots asked for forgiveness and soon Wishart’s life was over - a true reformer for Scotland. John Knox had watched and vowed that the cause would not be lost. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page170 APPENDIX 28 BIOGRAPHY OF PATRICK HAMILTON Patrick Hamilton was born 1504 in Scotland While a young lad of 13 years he was made the Abbot of Fern He studied in Paris where he was attracted to Luther's writings Later he returned to Scotland and studied at St. Andrews From 1526 he showed public sympathy to the reformist beliefs He visited Wittenberg in 1527 meeting both Luther and Melanchthon He also went to Marburg and its newly founded Protestant university It was in Marburg that he wrote his only work "Loci Communes" (Patrick's Plea) He returned to Scotland by the end of 1527 Alesius was given the task of changing Patrick's mind in relation to reformation thought, but was converted in the process Early in 1528 he was charged with heresy by Archbishop James Beaton He was burnt at the stake on 29 February 1528 outside St Salvators - part of the University of St. Andrews His last confession was "As to my confession, I will not deny it for awe of your fire, for my confession and belief are in Christ Jesus. I will rather be content that my body burn in this fire for confession of my faith in Christ than my soul should burn in the fire of hell for denying Him" While the flames were bringing him protracted and excruciating agonies he cried out "How long O God shall darkness cover this kingdom? How long wilt Thou suffer this tyranny of men?" The letters PH are set in the roadway marking the place of this early Scottish martyr Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page171 APPENDIX 29 BIOGRAPHY OF COLUMBA Columba was born in Ireland around 521 of a noble Irish family. His early training was by Finnian in the Celtic monasteries established by Patrick. While in Ireland he had founded several churches and monasteries. In 563 he left Ireland with twelve companions (disciples) filled with missionary zeal to bring Celtic Christianity to Scotland. Sailing in a coracle they made their way to Scotland first landing near Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula. Determining to live in a place where Ireland would not be seen, he went further north and landed on the island of Iona. The site of his landing is in a small bay on the southern end of the island. This missionary to Scotland lived with Iona as his base for the next 34 years. Iona became a centre for missionary efforts and journeys that took Columba and his followers over Scotland and the northern parts of England, as well as to the Netherlands, France, Germany, Italy and Switzerland. Their Sabbath keeping practices (seventh day of the week) are well attested by many historians. Brude the King of the Picts became a Christian through his efforts. Dal Riada the new King of the Scots came to Iona for Columba’s blessing in 574. Columba died in the year 597 having seen Celtic Christianity well established in Scotland. APPENDIX 30 POEMS OF IONA XXXII IONA On to Iona! – What can she afford To us save matter for a thoughtful sigh, Heaved over ruin with stability In urgent contrast? To diffuse the Word (Thy Paramount, mighty Nature! And Time’s Lord) Her temples rose, ‘mid pagan gloom; but why, Even for a moment, has our verse deplored Their wrongs, since they fulfilled their destiny? And when, subjected to a common doom Of mutability, those far-famed Piles Shall disappear from both the sister Isles, Iona’s Saints, forgetting not past days, Garlands shall wear of amaranthine bloom, Overseas Travel BRITAIN While heaven’s vast sea of voices chants their praise. IONA (Upon landing) How sad a welcome! To each voyager Some ragged child holds up for sale a store Of wave-worn pebbles, pleading on the shore Where once came monk and nun with gentle stir, Blessings to give, news ask, or suit prefer. Yet is you neat trim church a grateful speck Of novelty amid the sacred wreck Strewn far and wide. Think, proud Philosopher! Fallen though she be, this Glory of the west, Still on her sons the beams of mercy shine; And ‘hopes, perhaps more heavenly bright than thine, A grace by thee unsought and unpossest, A faith more fixed, a rapture more divine Shall gild their passage to eternal rest’. THE BLACK STONES OF IONA Here on their knees men swore: the stones were black, Black in the people’s minds and words yet they Were at that time, as now, in colour grey. But what is colour, if upon the rack Of conscience souls are placed by deeds that lack Concord with oaths? What differ night and day Then, when before the Perjured on his way Hell opens, and the heavens in vengeance crack Above his head uplifted in vain prayer To Saint, or Fiend, or the Godhead whom He had insulted – Peasant, King, or Thane? Fly where the culprit may, guilt meets a doom; And, from invisible worlds at need laid bare, Come links for social order’s awful chain. Homeward we turn. Isle of Columba’s Cell, Where Christian piety’s soul-cheering spark (Kindled from Heaven between the light and dark Of time) shone like the morning star, farewell! – And fare thee well, to Fancy visible. Remote St. Kilda, lone and loved sea-mark For many a voyage made in her swift bark, When with more hues than in the rainbow dwell Thous a mysterious intercourse dost hold, Extracting fro clear skies and air serene, And out of sun-bright waves, a lucid veil, That thickens, spreads, and, mingling fold with fold, Makes known, when thou no longer canst be seen, Page172 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page173 Thy whereabout, to warn the approaching sail. APPENDIX 31 BIOGRAPHY OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE David Livingstone was born 19 March 1813 to his parents Neil and Agnes. The family with four children – two brothers and two sisters lived in a one-roomed tenement at Blantyre some 12 km from Glasgow in Lanarkshire. As a lad Livingstone was enthralled by stories of his grandfather (also Neil) who then had lived on the island of Ulva off Scotland’s west coast. His father became a tea pedlar going from door to door selling his wares. At age 10, David began working in the cotton mill clambering under the machines to join broken threads. His working day went for 14 hours. Then he would attend classes for a further two hours. He was so enthralled with learning that with his first wages he bought a Latin grammar – “Rudiments of Latin” by Ruddiman. He would read a line or two as he passed by his place on the machines. Thus he learned Latin and Greek and read Virgil and other classics. Thomas Dick was a theologian and scientist and David read at this time Dick’s book “Philosophy of a Future State”. David wrote of this experience “immediately I accepted salvation by Christ and vowed to devote my life to His service”. His father was a Calvinist Congregationalist and forbade the reading of ‘trashy’ novels. “Robinson Crusoe” was seen more as a travel book. He considered becoming a doctor but his father forbade this unless it was for religious purposes. David then heard of the call for medical missionaries to China and found the way to merge his scientific interest and Christian service. In his early manhood Livingstone wrote, “I will place no value on anything I have or possess except in relation to the kingdom of Christ.” In 1836 (at age 23 yrs) he registered at Andersen’s College in Glasgow where he studied medicine, theology and science. The next year he applied to the interdenominational London Missionary society for service in China. With an Opium War then in progress the door to service in China was closed. Six months later he met Robert Moffat who enchanted him with stories of southern Africa and “the smoke of a thousand villages where no missionary had been before”. In December 1840 Livingstone who was now a doctor and ordained, set out for Africa on a voyage via Brazil. After three months on a ship that was tossed “like in a fit of epilepsy” he arrived at Cape Town. Immediately he set out in an ox-cart for Moffat’s mission station 900 km to the north. Moffat had after 25 years of work produced an orchard and garden, a stone church and some 40 converts – half of whom had back-slidden. In 1843 he wrote “I am a missionary heart and soul. God had only one Son, and He was a missionary and physician. A poor, poor imitation I am or wish to be. In this service I hope to live, in it I wish to die”. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page174 Livingstone left within a month on the first of his three exploratory travels. For 10 years he endeavoured to work as a conventional missionary and opened a string of mission stations, tending the gardens and teaching school etc. After four years here he married Mary Moffat – Robert Moffat’s daughter. After his only convert decided to return to polygamy he felt called more to explore than to work as a missionary. During this first term in South Africa he made extensive and dangerous explorations of that century. His aim was to establish a “Missionary Road” for 2200 km north into the interior. He took Mary with him on many of these early travels – though it was all hardship. Their newborn baby died after the family had wandered through the Kalahari Desert for nearly a month with very limited water. After seven years of marriage they visited Cape Town – his first visit to ‘civilisation’ in 11 years. Mary and the children were put on a boat for Britain – he never saw them for four years. During their 17 years of marriage Mary gave birth to six children. Livingstone did not have good interpersonal skills with other Westerners, often fighting with missionaries, and fellow explorers. “He had the temperament of a book-reading loner, emotionally inarticulate except when he exploded with Scottish rage”. He was the enemy of white Afrikaners when he spoke out against racial intolerance. With his family in Scotland, he set out on a three-year trip crossing Southern Africa from coast to coast – passing along the Zambesi River. The Zambesi was the route used by slave traders from Mozambique to Angola and thence to Brazil and the United States. Livingstone felt that his explorations were extending the British Empire. Besides being a missionary and explorer, he was a meticulous scientist always carrying a microscope and sextant. After crossing to the west coast he was fever-ridden, and barely able to rise from his bed. In December 1856 he sailed for Britain. After the tragedy of the Crimean War, Britain was looking for heroes and Livingstone became a ready-made hero from his exploits. He was given medals and an honorary doctorate from Oxford. He wrote a 400 page book “Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa”. It became an immediate best seller giving Livingstone 120 times his annual salary (100 pounds) in royalties. He left the London Missionary Society over disagreements about mission work and the government (on the persuasion of friends) commissioned him to explore the Zambesi granting him 5,000 pounds. In March 1858 he set sail – with his pregnant wife and child – and a team of seven. The trip up the Zambesi was in a brass and mahogany steamboat. They took tons of supplies and a pre-fabricated house for a mission station. The boat leaked – used too much fuel, often grounded on sandbanks. Mary having given birth to her sixth child died beside the river (1862). With problems everywhere, the British government recalled Livingstone. He reached London sick and dispirited – but wrote another book “narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries”. The next year he returned to Africa sponsored by the Royal Geographical Society. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page175 Most of his 30 porters deserted him and spread rumours that he had been murdered. For two years he had disappeared from view. This was when Henry Stanley an American journalist set out and found Livingstone with the immortalised words “Dr. Livingstone, I presume”. In 1843 just five days after Stanley left, Livingstone wrote, “My Jesus, my King, my life, my all; I again dedicate my whole life to Thee”. In August 1872 in precarious health he shook Stanley’s hand and set out on his final journey. He missed the source of the Nile by 300 km and by October his health was failing. He had to be carried through swamps. Finally on 1 May 1873 at age 60 Livingstone who had cheated death so many times lost the last battle. He had suffered severe internal bleeding. He died kneeling beside his cot in prayer. His heart was buried under a mpundu tree in the country where he had given his life. His body was dried in the sun and wrapped in calico for his last journey home. As the ship docked at Southampton bearing his body a 21 gun salute was fired and a small black boy held a sign, “ Dr. Livingstone, Friend of the African”. Above all Livingstone was true to his God and endeavoured to free slaves and share his belief in Christ. Bibliography: “Oxford Dictionary of the Christian Church” “Christian History Magazine” Issue 56 (Vol 16 No 4). APPENDIX 32 RICHARD CAMERON Richard Cameron was born about the year 1648 at Falkland in Fife. This was ten years after the National Covenant was signed. At first Cameron attended the Episcopalian worship which had been imposed on parts of Scotland. Then he heard Presbyterian outdoor preachers – Covenanters holding conventicles, and converted to their beliefs. Firstly he became a parish school teacher. He had tutored the children of Sir Walter Scott the famed novelist. Even though Sir Walter Scott held religious services in his own home in the absence of a speaker he dismissed Cameron holding that Cameron’s views were too radical. Cameron had a natural gift of oratory and his talents of preaching were noted and he became a highly successful field preacher. He was of the strict Presbyterian mould and a Covenanter. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page176 He sincerely believed that any person who had accepted an indulgence to return to Episcopal worship should be shunned. During his preaching thousands listened intently to his sermons and often there was profuse weeping when he made eloquent appeals for repentance and submission to Jesus Christ. King Charles II on the restoration of the monarchy insisted that all preachers submit to the religion of the kingdom – High Church Anglicanism – and accept the King as head of the church. Cameron could not accept this and went into exile in the Netherlands for some years. He returned to Scotland in 1680. He became the leader of a band of Covenanters later called Cameronians, and is often referred to as the ‘Lion of the Covenant’. Along with Donald Cargill – another powerful leader and preacher of the Presbyterian church he wrote the Sanquhar Declaration. This document disowned King Charles II’s authority and declared war against the king – for claiming to be head of the church among many things, – and for the exclusion of Charles’ brother – the Duke of York from succession. On 20 June 1680 Cameron with about twenty of his armed band rode their horses into the village of Sandquhar and read the declaration at the Mercat Cross in the town centre – in a very ceremonious manner. He prophesied the overthrow of the Stuart kings for usurping the prerogatives of King Jesus. The Privy Council posted a reward of 5000 marks for his capture , and 3000 marks each for the rest of the party. (A Mark was 2/3 of a Pound – called a Unite in those days). A small band of guards accompanied him wherever he went but was not sufficient to protect him. From this year until 1685 the king’s forces hunted the covenanters mercilessly and is called the ‘killing time’ when 18,000 God-fearing people were martyred. On 22 July 1680, Richard Cameron and a small band were discovered hiding at Airds Moss near Cumnock by a band of English dragoons. Cameron was believed to have a gift of prophecy, and is said to have washed his hands that morning with particular care, in expectation that they would be a public spectacle. Knowing that it would be a fight to the death, Cameron prays before the skirmish, “Lord, spare the green and take the ripe”. He then said to his brother, “Come, let us fight it out to the last; for this is the day which I have longed for, and the day that I have prayed for, to die fighting against our Lord’s avowed enemies; this is the day that we will get the crown”. In that skirmish Cameron was killed. The dragoons charged and hacked the Scots covenanters to death. Richard Cameron’s head and hands were cut off and taken to Edinburgh. His father was in prison at this time for non-conformity. Cameron’s head was shown to him and said, I know, I know them; they are my son’s, my own dear son’s; it is the Lord; good is the will of the Lord, who cannot wrong me or mine, but has made goodness and mercy to follow us all our days”. Richard Cameron’s head and hands were then displayed on the Netherbow Port – a gate of Edinburgh half way down what is now the Royal Mile. His body was buried at Airds Moss. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page177 Alexander Peden a friend of Cameron used to resort to his grave and lament his fate. There may have been some residual connection to Knox’s preaching when he had taught that tyrants who resist God’s law may be overthrown. His prophecy may have been partly fulfilled when the English Parliament drove King James II into exile and invited William and Mary to be regents. William and Mary however ruled by right of her Stuart blood. After 1689 and the accession of William and Mary of Orange as king and queen, the followers of Richard Cameron were pardoned and incorporated into the British Army as the Cameronian regiment. That year the Cameronian Regiment fought Jacobite forces at the Battle of Dunkeld. The Cameronians – Scottish Rifles – were disbanded as a regiment in 1968. Bibliography: Scots Worthies by John Howie ‘Lion of the Covenant’ by Neil Munro – Edinburgh Front List Books 2004 ‘The Lion of the Covenant’ by Maurice Grant Darlington Evangelical Press 1997. Wikipedia – Article Richard Cameron APPENDIX 33 MARGARET WILSON Margaret was the older daughter of Mr Wilson of Glenvernock. Glenvernock was a farm in the southwest Scotland parish of Penninghame, next to the Wigtown parish and over 12 miles from the country town. Mr Wilson and his wife worshipped according to the Church of Scotland, the established church of the day. This church had been Presbyterian, but had been changed into a an Episcopal form of government by the kings’ orders. In the late 17th century this religion was being enforced in all of Scotland. Margaret and her younger sister Agnes followed the Covenanters. Their brother Thomas escaped to Flanders at 16 years of age. At this time Margaret was 18 years of age and Agnes 13 years. The two sisters and Thomas were listed in the 1684 Parish List as being absent from home as Covenanter rebels. Both Margaret and Agnes were required to take “the Test” and refused. Some older brothers had fled to Ireland - others fled to the mountains and hid there. The parents were charged to neither harbour them or speak to them or supply them or see them, and troops were quartered at the farm as a guard. In February 1685 the daughters probably compelled by the cold and privations of the mountains secretly went to friends in Wigtown. They were discovered and placed in the Old Tolbooth – or gaol in the centre of the town – still there today. The cell is the only original part of the building today - part of the Victorian County Buildings. It is the big building with the clock in the centre of town. Both of the sisters were condemned to death by drowning along with an old lady Margaret McLauchlan or Margaret M’Lauchlan. The father of the girls travelled to Edinburgh and endeavoured to obtain their freedom. Such usually involved the payment of money. He did not have much and Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page178 and only had sufficient funds to purchase the liberty of the younger daughter Agnes. Margaret was then told she would die with the other Margaret. Two stakes were placed in the tidal channel of the Bladnoch River and the two ladies tied to the stakes. The river has since changed its course in 1825 and the area is now on the mudflats of Wigtown Bay – part of Solway Firth. Margaret McLaughlan was placed a little further down the river bank so that she would be the first to be covered by the incoming tide – and hopefully her struggle would entice Margaret Wilson to recant. Margaret Wilson sang Psalm 25:7, 11, 15, 16 etc and refused to recant. Finally she quoted Romans 8:35 -39. As the waters rose about Margaret Wilson a dragoon rode on horseback to the edge of the channel and told Margaret that if she would pray the State Prayers for the King as Head of the church she could escape death. She replied that she would pray for the King, but would not pray to him as the Head of the church. The incoming tide soon covered Margaret Wilson Surely Isaiah 43:2 was fulfilled, “When thou passeth through the waters I will be with thee”. Below the church in Wigtown a stone pillar on the sea flats of today marks the place of martyrdom. With the change in the course of the river the location is on the sandy flats of Wigtown Bay. On Windy Hill above the town a great stone obelisk that is visible for a great distance pays tribute to the martyrs of Wigtown. On the same day – 11 May 1685 – three men, George Walker, William Johnstone and John Milroy were hanged for the similar offences. Bibliography: * “The Scots Worthies” Andrew Bonar John M’Gready Glasgow * “Heroes and Heroines of the Scottish Covenanters” J. Meldrum published by John Ritchie Kilmarnock Scotland * “The Scottish Covenanters” James Taylor Hodder and Stoughton London 1894 * “They Dared for God” Glenna Barstad Pacific Press California 1958 * “Tales and Sketches of the Covenanters” John M’Gready Glasgow * “Second Daughter” Donna Brewster TC Farries Dumfries 1989 Overseas Travel BRITAIN APPENDIX 34 POEM SCOTLAND’S MAIDEN MARTYR A troop of soldiers waited at the door, A crowd of people gathered in the street, Aloof a little from them sabres gleamed And flashed into their faces. Then the door Was opened, and two women meekly stepped Into the sunshine of the sweet May noon, Out of the prison. One was weak and old, A woman full of tears and full of woes; The other was a maiden in her morn; And they were one in name and one in faith, Mother and daughter in the blood of Christ, That bound them closer than the ties of blood. The troop moved on; and down the sunny street The people followed, ever falling back As in their faces flashed the naked blades; But in the midst the women simply went As if they two were walking, side by side, Up to God’s house on some still Sabbath morn; Only they wee not clad for Sabbath day, But as they went about their daily tasks; They went to prison, and they went to death, Upon their Master’s service. On the shore The troopers halted; all the shining sands Lay bare and glistering; for the tide had drawn Back to its farthest margin’s weedy mark; And each succeeding wave, with flash and curve, That seemed to mock the sabres on the shore, Drew nearer by a handbreadth. ‘It will be A long day’s work,’ murmured those murderous men, As they slack’d rein. The leader of the troops Dismounted, and the people, pressing near, Then heard the pardon proffered, with the oath Renouncing and abjuring part with all The persecuted, covenanted folk. But both refused the oath; ‘because,’ they said, ‘Unless with Christ’s dear servants we have part We have no part with Him.’ Page179 Overseas Travel BRITAIN On this they took The elder Margaret, and led her out Over the sliding sands, the weedy sludge, The pebbly shoals, far out, and fastened her Unto the farthest stake, already reached By every rising wave, and left her there: And as the waves crept round her feet, she prayed That He would firm uphold her in their midst, Who hold them in the hollow of His hand. The tide flowed in. And up and down the shore There paced the provost, and the Laird of Lag, Grim Grierson, - with Windram and with Graham; And the rude soldiers, jesting with coarse oaths, As in the midst the maiden meekly stood, Waiting her doom, delayed, said she would turn ‘Before the tide, seek refuge in their arms From the chill waves.’ But ever to her lips There came the wondrous words of life and peace: ‘If God be for us, who can be against us?’ ‘Who shall divide us from the love of Christ?’ ‘Nor height, nor depth, nor any other creature.’ From the crowd A woman’s voice cried a very bitter cry, ‘O Margaret! my bonnie, bonnie Margaret! Gie in, gie in, my bonnie, dinna ye drown, Gie in, and tak’ the oath.’ The tide flowed in; And so wore on the sunny afternoon. And every fire went out upon the hearth, And not a meal was tasted in the town that day. And still the tide was flowing in: Her mother’s voice yet sounding in her ear, They turned young Margaret’s face toward the sea, Where something white was floating, - something White as the sea mew that sits upon the wave: But as she looked, it sank; then showed again; Then disappeared; and round the shore And stake the tide stood ankle deep. Page180 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page181 Then Grierson With cursing vowed that he would wait No more; and to the stake the soldier led her Down, and tied her hands; and round her Slender waist too roughly cast the rope, for Windram came and eased it while he whispered In her ear, ‘Come, take the test and ye are free;’ And one cried, ‘Margaret, say but God save The king!’ ‘God save the king, of His great grace,’ She answered, but the oath she would not take. And still the tide flowed in, And drove the people back, and silenced them. The tide flowed in, and rising to her knees, She sang the psalm, ‘To Thee I lift my soul’ (Psalm 25) The tide flowed in, and rising to her waist, ‘To Thee, my God, I lift my soul,’ she sang. The tide flowed in, but lifted up her face; And there was glory over all the sky, And there was glory over all the sea, A flood of glory, - and the lifted face Swam in it till it bowed beneath the flood. Thus Scotland’s maiden martyr served her God. -Anonymous APPENDIX 35 SAMUEL RUTHERFORD Rutherford was born in Nisbet, Roxburghshire, Scotland around 1600. He was born of a good family and educated for some time at the Grammar School. He then attended Edinburgh University and after graduation was appointed the Regent of Humanity there in 1623. In 1627 he earned an M.A. from Edinburgh College. Then the same year he was settled as a minister at Anwoth in Galloway. His daily regimen was to rise at 3 am, reading, praying and writing. He was an excellent pastor in visiting, catechising and working for his parishioners. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page182 Here he wrote “Exercitationes de Gratia” and was summoned because of it to appear before the High Commission Court in Edinburgh in June 1630. Here in Anwoth his wife was ill for a year and a month and died. Two children also died during this time. Rutherford himself had a fever here for thirteen weeks The Lord used this time of sadness to prepare Rutherford to be God’s comforter to His suffering people. In 1636 he wrote a book defending the doctrines of grace (Calvinism) against Arminianism. (“Exercitationes Apologeticae pro Divina Gratia” published in Amsterdam). Now he was in conflict with the church authorities who were dominated by English Episcopacy. Called before the High Court he was banished to Aberdeen for nonconformity. This exile was a sore and difficult time for Rutherford being separated from his beloved congregation. In 1638 there were immense struggles between the King and Parliament in England and Presbyterianism vs Episcopacy in Scotland. Rutherford just slipped out of Aberdeen and returned to his parish at Anwoth. The whole countryside was his parish and his labours of love were deeply appreciated. He is remembered for his sayings, urging his people “To see the King in His Beauty” and “To dwell in Immanuel’s Land”. That year the Kirk (Church of Scotland) held a General Assembly and restored Presbyterianism to the land. Rutherford was appointed as Professor of Theology at St. Andrews – but he negotiated to be allowed to preach once a week. In 1643 the famous Westminster Assembly too place and Rutherford was one of five Scottish commissioners invited to attend – but not to vote. Rutherford is thought to have had a major influence on the Shorter Catechism. During this time Rutherford wrote another book “Lex, Rex” which presented a theory of limited government and constitutionalism. Specifically it refuted the “Divine Right” of kings which was deeply held by the Stuart kings. This became a precursor of such authors as Thomas Hobbes and John Locke. Rutherford was also known for his spiritual and devotional books such as “Christ Dying and Drawing Sinners to Himself” His book of “Letters” was regarded by Spurgeon as the nearest thing to inspiration in the writings of men. In 1660 when the Restoration of the Monarchy brought Charles II to the throne, his writings in “Lex, Rex” made him an immediate target. On 19 September, 1660, the Committee of Estates made a proclamation against the book declaring it treasonous and seditious. Overseas Travel BRITAIN By the middle of October 1660 the book was ordered to be burned by the hangman at the Cross of Edinburgh and at the gates of the New College of St. Andrews. In 1661 the summons came charging Rutherford with treason and demanded his appearance on a certain day. From his deathbed he answered, “I must answer my first summons; and before your day arrives, I will be where few kings and great folks come.” In his last days, he lamented that he has been unable to bear a stronger witness for the Reformation. He often called his blessed Master “his Kingly King”. He also said “I shall shine – I shall see Him as He is. Mine eyes shall see my Redeemer! These very eyes of mine, and none other for me. It is no fancy or delusion; it is true. Let my Lord’s name be exalted; and if He will, let my name be grinded to pieces, that He may be all in all.” Rutherford died 31 March 1661. Bibliography: Page183 “The Scots Worthies” – Howie edited by Andrew Bonar Glasgow Wikipedia – article Samuel Rutherford Overseas Travel BRITAIN APPENDIX 36 POEM YOUNG LOCHIVAR Oh, young Lochinvar is come out of the West, Through all the wide Border his steed was the best, And, save his good broadsword, he weapon had none, He rode all unarmed, and he rode all alone. So faithful in love, and so dauntless in war, There never was knight like the young Lochinvar. He stayed not for brake, and he stopped not for stone, He swam the Esk River where ford there was none, But, ere he alighted at Netherby gate, The bride had consented, the gallant came late; For a laggard in love, and a dastard in war, Was to wed the fair Ellen of brave Lochinvar. So boldly he entered the Netherby hall, Among bridesmen, and kinsmen, and brothers, and all. Then spoke the bride’s father, his hand on his sword, (For the poor craven bridegroom said never a word), “Oh, come ye in peace here, or come ye in war, Or to dance at our bridal, young Lord Lochinvar?” “I long wooed your daughter, my suit you denied; Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide; And now am I come, with this lost love of mine, To lead but one measure, drink one cup of wine. There are maidens in Scotland more lovely by far, That would gladly be bride to the young Lochinvar.” The bride kissed the goblet, the knight took it up, He quaffed off the wine, and he threw down the cup. She looked down to blush, and she looked up to sigh, With a smile on her lips, and a tear in her eye. He took her soft hand ere her mother could bar: “Now tread we a measure,” said young Lochinvar. So stately his form, and so lovely her face, That never a hall such a galliard did grace; While her mother did fret, and her father did fume, And the bridegroom stood dangling his bonnet and plume. And the bridesmaidens whispered, “Twere better by far To have matched our fair cousin with young Lochinvar. Page184 Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page185 One touch to her hand, and one word in her ear, When they reached the hall-door, and the charger stood near; So light to the croupe the fair lady he swung, So light to the saddle before her he sprung! “She is won! we are gone! over bank, bush, and scaur; They’ll have fleet steeds that follow,” quoth young Lochinvar. There was mounting ‘mong Graemes of the Netherby clan; Forsters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran; There was racing and chasing on Cannobie Lee, But the lost bride of Netherby ne’er did they see. So daring in love, and so dauntless in war, Have ye e’er heard of gallant young Lochinvar? - Tennyson from ‘Marmion’ APPENDIX 36 WILLIAM MORGAN William Morgan was born in Cardiganshire at Ty Mawr near Betws-y-Coed and Penmachno in the year 1545. Morgan’s birthplace has been restored as a memorial to him, and contains a good collection of Welsh Bibles. He attended Cambridge University being enrolled in St. John’s College, showing himself a gifted scholar, studying Hebrew, Greek and Latin. Morgan graduated from Cambridge in 1568. At thirty years of age he was made the vicar of Welshpool. Three years later he was called to Llanrhaidadr Mochnant and Llanarmon. Here he determined to complete the translation of the Bible into the Welsh language. The New Testament had been translated by William Salesbury, but it was written in an excessively scholarly style. Morgan’s Bible was more the language of the common people and it became the model for other Welsh literature. In 1588 – the year of the Spanish Armada - he published the Welsh Bible and included the Apocrapha, making it the most significant book published in Welsh. 1000 were printed in the first printing. It was a publishing sensation for Wales. Morgan’s Bible did for Wales what the King James Bible did for England – only it was 23 years earlier. The publication of the Welsh Bible ensued the continuation of the Welsh language and as Luther’s New Testament standardised the German language, Morgan’s Bible did the same for Welsh. It has been said that the Welsh were a ‘nation of one book’ – Morgan’s Bible, as it played a decisive role in Welsh religious history. Wales has been seen as open to Christianity. Morgan’s Scriptures did much for this and Wales proved fertile ground for the Methodist preachers. The Bible became the cornerstone for a number of Welsh revivals. In 1595 Morgan became the Bishop of Llandaff. Overseas Travel BRITAIN Page186 Six years later in 1601 he became the Bishop of St Asaph, and was buried in the cathedral there in 1604. The St Asaph Cathedral is the home of the William Morgan Bible, and is the smallest cathedral in Great Britain. The Morgan Bible is used in royal weddings. Outside St. Asaph Cathedral is the Translator’s Memorial to William Morgan.
