ASDA Colour Manual Contents 1 Introduction 2 Asda Colour Standards 2.1 2.2 2.3 Physical colour standards Colour standard replacement and care Electronic Colour Standards 3 Colour Evaluation 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.6.1 3.6.2 3.6.3 3.6.4 Lighting cabinets Spectrophotometers and software Conditioning cabinets Visual colour assessment Metamerism Electronic colour evaluation Spectrophotometer setup Conditioning of the samples prior to measurement Sample presentation and handling best practise Measurement and orientation of samples 4 Colour Approval 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.6.1 4.6.2 4.7 Colour approval lab dips and print strike offs Colour approval lab dip and print strike off requirements Sample submission best practise Bulk submissions Submission cross referencing Bulk control procedures for mills and factories Mills Factories Other submissions 5 Ordering Colour Standards 6 Contacts 7 Submission Forms Colour Submission form Colour Sample labels Fabric Hanger submission Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 1 of 16 1 Introduction In order to clearly communicate our colour requirements we are using colour standards with spectral data. The following pages outline the details of the Asda Colour Management Process. This process applies to solid lab dips, print strike offs and bulk production dye lots. The Asda colour approval process is mandatory for the following departments: Bed Bath Curtains Rugs Throws Cushions The designer/buying teams must make all colour approvals prior to production. As a supplier to Asda it is your responsibility to ensure the colour approval process is completed in line with the critical path. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 2 of 16 2 Asda Colour Standards 2.1 Physical colour standards Asda use engineered colour standards as the primary method of colour communication and these are distributed through Color Solutions International. The colour standard swatches are 2” x 8” (51mm x 203mm) and are available from: Color Solutions International 9844-A Southern Pine Blvd. Charlotte, NC 28273 USA E-mail: sales@colorsolutionsinternational.com Website: www.colorsolutionsinternational.com Telephone: + 1-704-561-2900 Color Solutions International is part of DyStar and therefore you can also obtain DyStar support or a technical representative can be contacted for assistance in matching the colour. This service is available globally and can be found at: www.colorsolutionsinternational.com Asda colour standards are produced on 100% cotton woven fabric. They are cut from the same dye lot to ensure colour consistency. 2.2 Colour standard replacement and care All physical colour standard swatches used for visual evaluation must be protected from light. They can also get contaminated over time so they must be replaced as per below: Shade White Pastel Mid to Dark Office Replace every 3 months Replace annually Measure against its data – replace if DE greater than 0.5 Mill Replace every 3 months Replace every 6 months Replace annually In each case this is a guide and if contamination has occurred they should be replaced immediately. STANDARDS SHOULD NOT BE CUT The practice of cutting standards to make extra smaller ones is not accepted by Asda. This will reduce the ability of the mill to match the standard and could affect your lead time. 2.3 Electronic colour standards Where a supplier has a spectrophotometer you can also use the electronic data which comes with purchasing a physical standard. Electronic standards consist of the reflectance data measured by CSI (Color Solutions International) on Asda master physical standards. All lab dips should be measured against the ‘official electronic colour standard’. This standard will be sent by email from CSI automatically in the form of a .qtx file, when a colour standard is ordered. This file should be saved in your QC or Formulation software. Do not re-measure your physical CSI swatch to use as the standard. Suppliers are required to purchase physical standards every season form Colour Solutions International according to the specific colour references listed in the Asda design packs issued to suppliers. Order on-line at: www.colorsolutionsinternational.com Please refer to section 5 on how to order CSI colour Standards. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 3 of 16 3 Colour Evaluation 3.1 Lighting cabinets It is mandatory for all suppliers to Asda to have a lighting cabinet. These ensure that a consistent lighting environment is achieved across the supply base when visually assessing colour samples. The following cabinets are approved by Asda: Verivide CAC60, CAC120 or CAC150 Datacolor CMB Color Matcher 2540 or 2028 Spectralight 11, 111 or Judge 2 (available from Xrite) All cabinets must have a valid annual calibration certificate when it is used for assessment. Lamps used must be as per the manufacturers specifications and replaced either during each calibration or every 4000 hours. A calibration log should be kept for inspection. The cabinet should be painted to a neutral grey colour - Munsell N7 is used by Asda. Broken or malfunctioning lamps must be replaced immediately An electrical safety test should also be carried out on the cabinet prior to use. The following light sources must be used for assessment of Asda colours Light Source TL84 (or equivalent 840P) D65 Tungsten A10 Ultra Violet Comments Primary illuminant Secondary illuminant To check for sample colour constancy Only used for assessment of fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) levels Although TL84 is the primary light source it is important to ensure the sample is also a good match to the standard in D65. 3.2 Spectrophotometers and software The following spectrophotometers are approved for use by Asda: Spectroflash 650X (SF650), Datacolor 600, Spectroflash 600X (SF600X), Spectroflash 600 Plus CT (SF600X-CT); available through Datacolor ColorEye 7000A, Ci7 or Ci5 available through Xrite The following software is approved for Asda: Datacolor software version 3.12 (or higher) or Datacolor Tools version 1.0 (or higher), available through Datacolor Colour i Control QC Software, available through Xrite Please check the following websites for the nearest supplier of these: http://www.datacolor.com/ http://www.xrite.com/home.aspx It is not compulsory but highly recommended that all suppliers have a spectrophotometer when supplying Asda. This will ensure that lab dyes (dips) and bulk fabric can be checked for colour accuracy to the standard both electronically AND visually before submitting to Asda. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 4 of 16 3.3 Conditioning cabinets Conditioning cabinets are not compulsory for Asda but they are highly recommended when the assessment area for colour samples cannot be controlled to 20°C (+/- 2°C) and 65% RH (+/- 2%). The following are cabinets recommended by Asda: Vindon cabinet, available through Vindon UK. Datacolor Conditioner, available through Datacolor. It is acceptable to use a conditioned room which provides the same temperature and humidity specifications. 3.4 Visual colour assessment Ideally samples for visual assessment should be conditioned to 20°C +/- 2°C (70°F +/- 2°F) and 65%Rh +/- 2% prior to making a colour assessment. Samples that have not been allowed to condition will show sensitivity to light, moisture and temperature. In mills with temperatures greater than 26°C and humidity greater than 50%Rh, samples should be placed in an air conditioned room with settings close to those above. Using one of the approved lighting cabinets (see section 3.3); the following procedure must be followed: The cabinet should be situated in an area where the external lighting can be controlled so that it does not interfere with that of the viewing area. Asda recommends a dark room The cabinet surface must be clear of other samples with no bright colours in the immediate viewing area Persons wearing bright or very chromatic clothing should wear a neutral grey ‘cover up’ or lab coat to eliminate the influence of extraneous colour The observer should not wear tinted glasses or coloured contact lenses for making colour evaluations The samples should be folded twice to form four (4) layers for evaluation: The standard and sample must be placed on the cabinet surface PLEASE NOTE ‘DESIGN CHICLETS’ MUST NOT BE USED FOR VISUAL ASSESSMENT Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 5 of 16 The standard and the sample must be aligned next to each other with their edges touching slightly as demonstrated in the following image: Lab dip Standard Lab dip Standard The standard and the sample must be aligned in the same direction with respect to weave, knit pattern, or other textures Fabrics such as suede, corduroy, and velvet demonstrate changes in appearance as viewing angles are changed. These samples should always be brushed in the direction of pile lay before viewing and the standard and sample must be laid with the pile in the same direction. Also, these samples should be examined while varying the viewing angle to detect this effect The standard and sample should be - illuminated from directly overhead - observed at an angle of 45° If using a polyangular support please ensure the angle from eye to sample is still 45° The observer should allow 10 seconds of adaptation to the illumination in the lighting cabinet When changing from illuminant to illuminant the observer should allow 10 seconds before making judgment The sample and standard should be viewed in TL84, D65 and Tungsten The observer should note colour differences between the sample and standard in: - Lightness - Chroma - Hue If metamerism is present please refer to next section. Only samples which are visually close to the standard in both TL84 AND D65 should be considered for submission to Asda. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 6 of 16 3.5 Metamerism This is a phenomenon whereby two samples can appear visually the same under one or more illuminants but also differ from each other in one or more. This is demonstrated below: Asda primary and secondary light sources: TL84 D65 It is primarily caused by the dyestuffs reflecting light back to the observer at different wavelengths, giving them a different colour appearance. Ensure dye combinations are selected which minimize this. Submissions with excessive metamerism will be rejected. If the metamerism cannot be rectified then you must inform the Asda buyer and submit the lab dye with the best match in TL84. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 7 of 16 3.6 Electronic Colour Evaluation Where possible all lap dips should be measured before submission into Asda for Colour approval. Spectrophotometer measurements can only be performed on flat woven/knit or low textured surfaces. The following items should not be measured electronically: Thick gauge knitwear Pile Fabrics e.g. velvet, fur, towelling Marls Open structured fabrics e.g. lace, mesh Metallic Washed Yarn dyes Black and White colours should only be assessed visually (due to inconsistencies found between visual appearance and electronic readings) 3.6.1 Spectrophotometer setup The spectrophotometer should be located in an area where the samples are being conditioned and assessed. If this is not possible or a conditioning cabinet is being used then it must be close to the cabinet. Only those instruments approved by Asda will be considered for electronic submissions. The following settings should be used: Specular Gloss UV component Observer Colour equation Aperture Included Included (filter off) 10 degree CMC (2:1) LAV (large) The instrument should be set up for calibration every 8 hours and also to take an average of 4 readings per sample. The tolerance used for all electronic submissions is 0.8 Delta E and this must be used to set up the Pass/Fail criteria within the software. The screen should be set up to clearly show the measurement for Lightness, Chroma and Hue in TL84, D65 and Tungsten (example below). Pass/Fail criteria should be linked to TL84/F11. Diagnostic software must be run once per week to ensure the spectrophotometer is measuring correctly and no ‘drift’ has occurred. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 8 of 16 3.6.2 Conditioning of the samples prior to measurement Conditioning is highly recommended prior to colour measurement. Standard laboratory conditions are required as defined by ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials): temperature of 70ºF +/- 2ºF(20ºC +/- 2ºC) relative humidity 65% +/- 5% (non-condensing) All samples should be allowed to condition in the lab environment, including exposure to ambient lighting, for at least 30 minutes prior to measurement. Alternatively a rapid conditioning cabinet may be used. 3.6.3 Sample presentation and handling best practise Fabric swatches should be folded twice to form 4 layers for measurement (as visual assessment). Sheer or translucent fabrics must be folded to eight (8) layers Knits and elastic fabrics must not be stretched during presentation to prevent inconsistency in measurement Swatches should be free of wrinkles and lint 3.6.4 Measurement and orientation of samples The QC software should be set up to automatically accept 4 readings per sample and produce an average reading. Fabrics such as knits, jersey, interlock, rib, pique, twills, poplins, satins and loop back should be measured on the commercial face of the fabric, rotating and repositioning the fabric 90° between each reading. The orientation with respect to the texture of the swatch should result in measurements taken at 90°, 180°, 270°, and 360°. The arrows indicate orientation: Measurements MUST be made to the Asda standard and the reflectance data (.qtx file) which is supplied by the standard manufacturer It is not acceptable to measure the swatch on the standard and use this as the ‘electronic standard’ Once the measurement has been carried out you must repeat this for each lab dye Any lab dye which has a reading of 0.8 DE(CMC 2:1) or less should be highlighted Once the measurements are complete select those lab dyes which had a reading within tolerance, then select one ONLY with the best reading to submit to Asda. If none are within this tolerance then new lab dyes should be made. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 9 of 16 4 Colour Approval Asda requires all personnel who make visual colour decisions to be tested annually for colour perception both internally and with the supply base. The following tests must be used: Ishihara test for defective colour vision Farnsworth-Munsell 100 Hue test For each one a pass status must be achieved (a score of 16 or less on the 100 Hue test is deemed a pass). Anyone who does not achieve this status cannot make visual colour decisions for Asda. All suppliers must ensure they comply with this by either purchasing the tests or outsourcing at Intertek Testing Services. It is important to keep records of the testing carried out on personnel and these may be requested during factory visits by Asda. 4.1 Colour approval lab dips and print strike offs Lap dips/strike offs are to be sent either via GP or direct to Asda for approval. Lab dip size is to be a minimum of 7cm x 7cm. A print strike off must be the full screen size print repeat. When producing lab dips for colour approval, the supplier must make at least 3 lab dips. Lab dips are to be submitted using the Colour Submission Form. In addition for print strike offs, they must be labelled using the Colour Sample labels in section 7. Both Colour Submission forms and Colour Sample labels must be fully completed. 4.2 Colour approval lab dip and print strike off requirements All lab dips/strike offs must be fully and correctly labelled, otherwise they will not be reviewed. Once comments have been made on a sample, the supplier is expected to resubmit lab dips/strike offs, based on the comments given within 10 days. Colour approvals must fall in line with the relevant critical path for the range. All colour approval samples submitted for approval must have the same raw material and construction as agreed with the buyer. Suppliers must have a completed Colour Submission Form with each submission. Each colour approval lab dip/strike off must be referenced with a maximum of three (3) characters. Use unique labels for each submit against the same shade for same season. For example, do not use A, B, C as references against a lab dip submission then re-use A, B, C for the re-submit. You must use different letters such as D, E and F. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 10 of 16 4.3 Sample submission best practise Lab dyes should be submitted to the relevant Asda Buying team using the Colour Submission form in section 7 Only one colour reference and fabric type should be used per sheet There should be no more than 4 lab dyes per submission form and they should be as large as possible using the box as a guide i.e. 7cm x 7cm If lab dyes are too small this may affect the approval decision at Asda and you may be requested to re-submit larger samples Each lab dye should be mounted onto the sheet using one piece of double sided tape situated at the top of each piece of fabric. Please do not use staples The Asda Buying teams will feedback whether the submission has been approved or whether further submissions are required. Please follow the below processes for colour sample submission: 4.4 Bulk submissions Important When dyeing bulk fabric you must still follow the Asda Colour standard. Lab dyes are used for reference only. The reason for this is that fabric comes from many suppliers and we must ensure that a close tolerance is achieved in store. If the lab dye was approved commercially i.e. outside of tolerance both electronically and/or visually you must still ensure bulk is nearer the standard but no further than the lab dye from the standard. If comments were issued by Asda with the approval these should be followed during bulk dyeing. Bulk fabric should be submitted to the relevant technologist/buyer for shade using the Fabric Hanger submission in section 7 If the bulk is rejected then a new submission should be dyed using – using rejection comments if given. If the bulk is approved then the procedure below should be followed to ensure colour continuity within Asda products. 4.5 Submission cross referencing Where a lab dye has been approved visually for a department, if another style for the same department uses the same colour reference AND the same fabric, then it can be cross referenced for ONE season – this must be agreed with the Buying team. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 11 of 16 4.6 Bulk control procedures for mills and factories 4.6.1 Mills First Bulk The Dyelot must be produced with a right first time process in order to ensure repeatability The dyed fabric must be labelled with lot number, roll number and the date it was dyed Cuttings should be taken from each roll and mounted face up If there is no variation in shade then only one cutting should be kept, if there is variation then a record should be kept A Dyehouse continuity record (working standard) should be set up for this and stored by Asda colour reference and fabric type with the date dyed There should also be a Finished fabric continuity card which is stored in an office environment The continuity records should be an A4 size grey card folder (A3 folded in half) Continuity records must be stored in the dark An example of a continuity record in an approved Asda format can be seen in Appendix 4 Subsequent Batches Once approved, dyelots must be produced with minimum variation to the approved bulk shade Dyelots must be labelled with lot number, roll number and the date they were dyed Cuttings should be taken from each dyelot The cutting should be measured (where possible) and checked visually to the working standard in the dyehouse The dyelot cuttings should be mounted in the specific continuity card. They should be two thicknesses running down one page and then back to the top of the second page (face side showing) so they are adjacent to each other This should be mirrored for the finished fabric continuity. A record should now be available for each batch before and after finishing Cuttings which are outside of tolerance must be flagged up and re-submitted to either the factory/supplier or Asda for approval depending upon the process used If there is a shade drift from the original approved bulk the process must be addressed to ensure it returns to the approved shade 4.6.2 Factories Continuity records should be kept from each delivery and should be made of roll to roll cuttings from each dyelot Continuity records should be stored in a dark environment Prior to cutting they should be checked against the approved Asda colour standard in a light cabinet in BOTH TL84 AND D65 light sources (the light cabinet must be located in a dark room) If any rolls are off shade to the Asda approved shade, these should NOT be used for the production of Asda products If there is a large quantity off-shade then you must contact the fabric supplier to inform them It is your responsibility to ensure that colour continuity is maintained both within a product AND from product to product. Continuity records may be requested or checked by Asda during factory visits Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 12 of 16 4.7 Other submissions Sheer or translucent fabrics For these types of fabrics they should still be submitted using the lab dye and bulk submission sheets. It is important to ensure that there is enough fabric at the lab dye stage to ensure it can be folded once to check the shade at two thicknesses Yarn Dyes For yarn dyed garments, submissions should be in the form of a knit down i.e. a solid knitted portion of fabric which is in the same structure as the final fabric. Wash effects, Tie dye and similar effects, Pigment and Sulphur Dye Products For these types of products you must submit a sample to the relevant Buying team for approval. If it is for the effect only then a sample of the agreed shade must be submitted at a later date. If there is likely to be shade variation during production an example of this variation should be submitted at this point. Once approval is given on the correct shade, shade bands should be submitted to the relevant technologist/designer/Buying team. These bands must be from bulk production and where they are outside of an acceptable tolerance Asda reserves the right to reject them. Print submissions For all print submissions you must follow either a CSI colour standard or Pantone reference as indicated on the design brief. For each print a strike off should be submitted to the relevant designer using the Colour submission form and be labelled using the Colour Sample labels in section 7. This must: be created using bulk screens and inks should be correct for shade should also be completely replicable during bulk conditions If there are likely to be any variations on this submission you must indicate this at the earliest stage but no later than this submission. If approval is given bulk production should match the strike off. Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 13 of 16 5 Ordering Colour Standards In order to keep colour communication consistent throughout the supply base, Asda uses Colur Standard International as its standard provider. Standards must be purchased dependent upon the colour reference from the Design Pack CSI Log on to www.colorsolutionsinternational.com Click on MY CSI (at the top of the page). A yellow box should appear – click on request new user Create a user name using alpha and numeric characters only. No symbols Enter all your information as thoroughly as possible, state which floor you are located, Postal Code* Check the retailer you are currently working with for colour samples Click register/save Log out – Your designated customer service representative will be automatically emailed A confirmation email will be sent once our side is complete with set up. (You cannot place the order until your representative authorizes you by email) Please do not create multiple user names. If you experience a web error, please contact CSI to expedite For further information on ordering colour standards, issues etc. please use your customer service representative to help you. Color Solutions International Color Solutions International is part of the DyStar family and therefore, when attempting to match to a colour standard in the mill, a DyStar support or technical representative can be contacted for assistance in matching the colour. This service is available globally. When placing your order through the CSI website and require technical assistance, click on “Request Recipe”, this will inform you of your local DyStar technical representative and contact information. The local rep. will receive a copy of your order as reference when you contact them. https://www.colorsolutionsinternational.com/Index2.html Contact For any other questions please contact us: tel: 1-800-962-6023 ext 2900 or (704) 561-2900 fax: (704) 561-2915 email: sales@colorsolutionsinternational.com Address Colour Solutions International Inc. 9844-A Southern Pine Blvd Charlotte, NC 28273 USA Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 14 of 16 6 Contacts Verivide Quartz Close Warrens Business Park Enderby Leicester LE19 4SG tel: +44 (0) 116 284 7790 e-mail: enquiries@verivide.com web: www.vervide.com DataColor 6 St Asdas Court Dairyhouse Lane Broadheath Altrincham Cheshire WA14 5UA tel: +44 (0)161 929 9441 fax: +44 (0)161 929 9059 e-mail: Asda@datacolor.com web: www.datacolor.com X-Rite UK The Acumen Centre First Avenue Poynton Cheshire SK12 1FJ tel: +44 (0) 1625 871100 fax: +44 (0) 1625 871444 e-mail: wal-mart@gretagmacbeth.com web: www.xrite.com/home.aspx Vindon John Boyd Dunlop Drive Kingsway Business Park Rochdale OL16 4NG England tel: +44 (0) 1706 716710 fax: +44 (0) 1706 716740 e-mail: sales@vindon.co.uk web: www.vindon.co.uk Dystar UK Burrwood Way Hollywell Green Halifax West Yorkshire HX4 9BH tel: +44 (0) 1422 313720 fax: +44 (0) 1422 313721 email: dystar.uk@dystar.com web: www1.dystar.com Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 15 of 16 7 Submission Forms Colour Submission form Colour Sample labels Fabric Hanger submission Asda Textile Colour Manual – version 2 – November 2012 Page 16 of 16