M.O.S.T. Exercises
The offset cone weave (below) and U-turn are the cause of more test failures than all of the other exercises
combined. The run begins with the rider approximately 10 feet away from and in line with the first cone.
The rider must pass the first cone on the
left and the second on the right and so on.
Three points are deducted for the first cone
missed and 5 points if you miss more than
one. In addition, 3 points are deducted for
putting a foot down once and 5 points for
the second and subsequent occurrences.
Once the offset cone segment is
completed, the rider must perform a
sweeping 180-degree turn and perform a
right hand U-Turn in the box shown.
500cc bikes and above use the 24’ line
while those under 500cc’s use the 20’
line. Five point deductions are earned for
touching the boundary lines and/or putting
a foot down.
Due to the point weighting on this run it is
possible to earn 10 points on the offset
weave and another 10 on the right hand UTurn, so this is a good place to focus your
practice.
Left turn – normal stop.
Begin this test approximately 30 feet away from
the left hand turn diagramed below. You must
complete the turn inside the boundary lines and
without putting a foot down. Once you exit the
turn, you will make a sweeping 180 degree turn
to a 5’x3”’ box painted on the ground. You need
to be able to stop with your front tire inside the
box and not touching the line and without
skidding. You will approach the box on the 5’
side.
Skidding during the stop is a 3 point deduction
and not stopping in the box is a 5 point
deduction.
Quick Stop
The quick stop (below) is one of two timed maneuvers.
The rider begins on a start line and accelerates for 35 feet,
stabilizing the motorcycle's speed between 12 and 20
MPH. A 20’ long timing box is then entered; the box is
usually defined by two sets of cones.
When the front tire reaches the end of the timing box
(second set of cones) the brakes are applied and the
motorcycle is stopped as quickly and as safely as
possible. Unlike the controlled stop you do not earn
deductions for skidding, although it isn’t encouraged.
There is a standard distance based on your speed and
you earn a 1-point deduction for every foot over that
standard. In practice if you use both brakes properly
you will be within the standard with room to spare.
There are several portions of this test that cause
trouble for many riders. Points will most likely be
deducted if the rider uses only the rear brake. An
automatic failure will be charged to riders who end up
skidding and dropping the motorcycle, so don’t get
carried away.
The last potential trouble spot is either going too fast
or too slow or anticipating the stop. Examiners will be
looking for any attempt to brake before the stop line,
but if you do you will get one more chance at it in this
portion of the test. You also get a second run if you
are riding too fast or too slow, so take a glance at your
speed. Remember the 12 to 20 MPH speed limit; 14
to 15 MPH is ideal.
Swerve
The Obstacle Swerve (below) is the
second timed test with the same
target speed of 12 to 20 MPH. The
rider will begin a swerve either to the
left or right as directed at the second
set of cones.
Thirteen feet from the swerve line
(10 feet plus the 3 one-foot hash
marks in image below) is a second
line which is 7’ wide representing a
car and 6’6’ to the outside of that is a
vertical line. The rider must swerve
through the 6’6” opening without
touching the 7 foot horizontal line or
the vertical boundary line to the
outside. It is a 5 point deduction for
touching the boundary. If you are
too slow you get one more chance.
http://www.idahostar.org/guide/intro.htm
Introduction
This booklet describes several exercises which you can practice by yourself or with a friend. The exercises
will help you develop the skills you need to pass the motorcycle skill test and receive your license. The proper
execution of these exercises will help you in various traffic situations. Do not attempt these exercises unless
you can already perform basic skills such as using the clutch and throttle correctly, shifting and riding in
a straight line. If you do not have these basic skills, be sure to seek instruction before practicing the skills
in this guide. Of course, the best place to learn to ride is in a quality rider education program, if one is
located near you.
Call 1-800-477-4700 toll-free to find out if a rider education course is being offered in your area.
Read the entire guide before you practice. Take the guide with you for reference when you practice.
Keep practicing until you can do each exercise at least five times without a problem. Do not practice for
more than one or two hours at a time. When you get tired, you cannot practice effectively.
Choosing a Practice Area
A well-marked parking lot is the best practice area. Be aware, however, of grease left by parked cars. Look
for parking lots that are not used all the time at shopping centers, schools, churches or community centers. For
instance, you might use a school lot in the evening hours, or a shopping center early in the morning.
Once you've selected a suitable location, it's important to gain permission from the owner.
Keep this basic parking lot diagram in mind when setting up drills and exercises.
If the parking lot you choose doesn't have lines, use the dimensions diagrammed here. Mark them using a
tape measure and chalk.
Traffic is your greatest concern. Make sure you check to the front sides and rear before doing an exercise.
Also, make sure you watch out for children and animals and be considerate of others in the area.
Safety Rules
The practice exercises are not dangerous. However, a few safety rules should be followed:
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Wear proper protective clothing to include: helmet, gloves, boots or shoes that cover the ankles, long
pants, and long-sleeved shirt or jacket.
Inspect the motorcycle for defects before you start. If you are not familiar with the inspection
procedures for your motorcycle, check the owner's manual.
Check the practice area for loose gravel, glass, grease left by cars, or other things that could cause a
spill.

If possible, take a friend along to:
(a) Watch out for traffic
(b) Help you if anything goes wrong.
What to Bring
Bring five small objects that you can use as markers. Milk cartons or plastic bottles with a little sand or
water in the bottom work well. If you use small objects, bring some chalk to draw markers on the pavement.
Exercise: Quick Stop on a Curve
Directions
Practicing this exercise will help you stop quickly when something suddenly appears in your path on a curve.
Ride to the outside of the line "A". Start, facing marker one at a distance sufficient enough to increase speed to
10-15 mph. As you reach marker one, turn in the curved path indicated by marker two, three, and four. When
your front tire passes marker two, begin braking. Try to stop before marker three. Do this at 10 mph, then 15
mph. Do not exceed 15 mph.
Coaching Tips
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Keep head and eyes up; focus on where you want to go.
Straighten motorcycle, then apple both brakes stopping as quickly as possible.
Keep feet on pegs until almost stopped.
When stopped, the left foot should touch the ground first, and you should be in first gear.
Do not skid either wheel.
Problems
Corrections
1. Overshooting the final
marker.
1. Apply more pressure to the brakes once motorcycle is straightened from the
lean angle.
2. Motorcycle nearly falls
over.
2. Straighten up the motorcycle, then apple the brakes. Be sure the handlebars
are square with the motorcycle.
3. Rear wheel skids.
3. Apply less pressure on the rear brake and make sure the motorcycle is straight
up.
Exercise: Turning and Cornering
Directions
Practicing these drills will help you in turning and cornering at higher speeds such as curves on highways
and winding roads, especially when the curve is tighter than you anticipated.
Ride to the left around the oval indicated by markers one, two, three, four, five and six. Adjust your speed and
lean angle so that a small throttle opening is held steady through marker one, two and three. Repeat the drill
turning to the right.
Coaching Tips
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
Beginning speed of 10-15 mph.
Slow down before the turn.
Look through the turn to where you want to go. Lean with the motorcycle.
Hold a steady speed or roll on the throttle gently through the turn.
Problems
Corrections
1. Swinging wide of the turn.
1. Look for the exit point. Apply more pressure on the
handlebar in the direction of the turn.
2. Cutting corners too close or turning too
sharply.
2. Look at the exit point. Do not look down. Apply less
pressure to the inside handlebar.
3. Exiting wide out of the turn, making the 3. Look where you want to go. Apply more pressure to the
oval into a circle.
inside handlebar.
Exercise: Sharp Turns
Directions
Practicing these drills will help you to make sharp turns from stoplights or stop signs, pulling out of parking
spaces or driveways, and turning into a driveways, and turning into a driveway or onto a narrow street.
Drill 1 - Begin riding straight across the parking lot, increasing speed to approximately 10 mph. Just before
reaching the "Begin Turning" Marker, slow down and use both brakes to adjust your speed for making a sharp
turn. As you reach the line or marker make a sharp turn (left or right). Finish your turn as close to line "A" as
you can without touching it. Remember to accelerate slightly coming out of the turn.
Drill 2 - Start at the marker. Begin making a sharp turn from the starting point. Finish your turn as close to line
"A" as you can without hitting it.
Coaching Tips
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Keep head and eyes up; look where you want to be at the end of the turn.
Turn the handlebars and lean the motorcycle in the direction of the turn.
Use the friction zone of the clutch as you turn.
Accelerate as you leave the turn.
Cover the rear brake, and use both brakes lightly to reduce speed before the turn.
Practice left and right turns.
Problems
Corrections
1. Turning too short or
too long.
1. Keep eyes up and look through the turn. Don't look down.
2. Not sure when or
where to turn.
2. Start your turn when the front wheel passes the start marker. As you start your
turn, turn your head and look to the exit point. Do not look down.
3. Motorcycle stalls of
falls into the turn.
3. Concentrate on maintaining steady speed or slight acceleration.
Exercise: Quick Stop, Straight
Directions
Practicing this exercise will help you stop quickly when something suddenly appears in your path.
Approach marker one, shifting to second gear. As your front tire passes marker one, downshift and begin
braking. Try to stop before marker two. Try this at 10 mph, then 15 mph, then 20 mph. Do not exceed 20
mph.
Coaching Tips
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
Keep head and eyes up.
When stopping, pull in the clutch, downshift to first gear and apply both brakes. Do not release the
clutch.
Keep handlebars straight.
Do not release the brakes until fully stopped.
Try to stop before the second marker.
When stopped, the left foot should touch the ground first, and you should be in first gear.
Problems
Corrections
1. Overshooting the final
marker.
1. Apply more pressure to brakes; however, avoid locking front wheel brake.
2. Motorcycle slides
sideways.
2. Sit straight on seat and do not turn handlebars, look straight ahead.
NOTE: It is okay to lock the rear wheel if the motorcycle is going straight.
3. Engine overrevs when
using the front brake.
Close the throttle before braking. Avoid pulling back on the throttle when
applying pressure to the front brake. Squeeze the front brake with fingers only.
Exercise: Weaves
Directions
Practicing these drills will help you in making quick lane changes in traffic or changes in direction.
Drill 1 - 30-foot Weave - Begin at one end of the parking lot lines or markers. Go to the right of the first
marker, left of the second, right of the third, and so on.
Drill 2 - 20-foot Weave - Proceed the same as you did in the 30-foot weave.
Coaching Tips
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
Keep head and eyes up.
Turn by pushing on the handlebars in the direction of the turn. (Push right to go right; push left to go
left.)
Lean with the motorcycle for the exercise.
Maintain a steady speed.
Problems
Corrections
1. Swinging too wide away from the 1. Look past the last marker, decrease lean angle and push less on the
markers.
handlebars.
2. Hitting markers.
2. Look past the last marker, increase lean angle slightly and push
more on the handlebars.
Exercise: Normal Stop, Straight
Directions
Practicing this exercise will help you stop smoothly, such as for stoplights and stop signs.
Accelerate straight ahead across the parking lot between 15-20 mph (shift to second gear.) Begin to slow down
and downshift at the first marker. Try to come to a smooth nonskidding stop with your front tire next to the last
marker.
Coaching Tips
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Keep head and eyes up.
Keep the motorcycle on a straight course.
Begin downshifting and braking at the first marker.
Squeeze the clutch, downshift to first gear and gradually apply both brakes at the same time.
Do not release the front and back brakes until you come to a complete stop.
When stopped, the left foot should touch the ground first and you should be in first gear.
Problems
Corrections
1. Rear wheel skids.
1. Apply less pressure on the rear brake.
2. Overshooting marker. 2. Begin slowing and braking sooner.
Exercise: Obstacle Swerve
Directions
Practicing this exercise properly will help you swerve to avoid a potential hazard. Approach the first pair of
markers. As you reach the markers you should be going 10-15 mph. Make sure you've decided on which
direction you intend to go before starting the exercise. As your front tire passes the first pair of markers, make a
swerve (right or left). Go to the outside of the next marker but try not to cross line "A" or "B". Do not stop;
continue at a steady speed and repeat the exercise.
Coaching Tips
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To swerve right, push right until you have cleared the marker, then push left to resume straight ahead.
Push on the handlebar in the same direction you want to go. (Push right to go right, push left to go
left.)
Do not brake and swerve at the same time.
Problems
Corrections
1. Unable to properly complete
the swerve.
1. Maintain pressure on the handlebar until you have cleared the marker.
Look where you want to go.
Exercise: Higher Speed Turns
Directions
Start, facing marker one at a distance sufficient enough to increase speed to 10-15 mph. Just before reaching
the end of line "A", reduce speed, using both brakes. Start at point 1. As you start your turn at point 1, look to
the exit point and gently roll on the throttle throughout the turn. Practice turning in both directions.
Coaching Tips
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Look through the turn where you want to go.
Beginning speed of 10-15 mph. Lean with the motorcycle.
Slow down before the turn using both brakes.
Gradually increase speed throughout the turn.
Problems
Corrections
1. Swinging wide of the turn.
1. Look to the exit point and push more on the inside handlebar.
2. Cutting corner too close or
turning too sharply.
2. Do not look down. Look at the exit point. Gently roll on the
throttle.
3. Exiting wide out of the turn,
making the oval into a circle.
3. Slow down more before entering the turn, look to the exit point, push
more on the inside handlebar and gently roll on the throttle.
http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2497
Parking Lot Practice
(Using Target Fixation)
By: James R. Davis
You do not use a parking lot to practice high speed maneuvers. You use parking lot practice to hone your
low speed skills. Here are two exercises that I routinely do myself which require no 'props' or imaginary
lines.
Following is a diagram of an exercise I have found to be extremely helpful in learning to get control of my
bike during slow speed turns. In an empty parking lot find a row of parking lines and approach them
(Green arrow in the lower left corner). At the end of a line make a HARD right turn and continue it until
you are lined up with another line. Ride that line and at the end of it make a HARD left turn and continue
this weaving back and forth (left/right) as often as you can until you can ride each SECOND line. The
diagram shows riding each THIRD line which is what most people can do with a little practice.Â
It is not so much that you learn how far your bike can lean doing this as it is that you learn to
aggressively STEER (not counter-steer) at the beginning of each change of direction and what the bike
feels like as you establish control of it during the resulting lean.Â
And, for those of you that like little 'aids' like small orange cones or half tennis balls to mark your desired
course - I recommend that you NOT use them at all. They encourage too much attention to themselves as
'targets' - you try entirely too hard NOT to hit them if you get close to them, or too hard to get close to
them if you are not very close, and in the process your attention is distracted from the real purpose of the
practice.
However, if you must use something like the cones to keep track of your objective course then I
recommend that you NOT place them on the ends of the lines but rather in the middle of them (at the
spots marked 'X') so that you are encouraged to target 'thru' the turn to where you actually want to end
up - else you will find yourself always too wide (crossing the line.) [This is a secondary lesson. That is,
using the cones at the start of the lines demonstrates target fixation problems. Using them in the middle
of the lines demonstrates that you can USE target fixation to *your* advantage.]
When you first start doing this exercise don't be surprised that you can make the FOURTH line in one
direction and not even that in the other direction. That is why you are practicing, right? To find out what
your abilities are and improve them.Â
Also, if you find yourself even modestly disoriented while doing this - STOP and recover your sense of
equilibrium before continuing.Â
Finally, if you NEVER manage to be able to make the second line - so what? The objective is not to teach
yourself how to make the tightest turns, it is to teach yourself how to get (establish) and maintain control
of your bike in slow turns. As you learn your limits you can be satisfied with progress made (because you
can see it) and either come back for more practice at another time or not. The bigger your bike is, the
harder it will be to wrestle it into a second line alignment - of course. Again, that is input for you to
consider, not a mandate that you make your bike behave like it's 300 pounds lighter than it actually is.
Now, when you are comfortable and accomplished on this exercise, you can advance to its logical next
step. That is, instead of using the line to get 'stable' (riding vertical) until the line ends, use the cross over
points (red X's) as both your start and end points. Now you will be practicing major shifts in lean angle
from one side to the other. Believe me, that will change how many lines you can handle for awhile but it
will dramatically help your confidence as when you can do this exercise you will have MASTERED slow
speed control!
The next practice I do and recommend is one designed to help you do rock solid turns from a dead stop.
Put your bike at any cross point in the parking lines (green arrow) - dead stop - then turn your handlebars
full stop to the right or the left. Your objective is to RIDE away from a dead stop with no more than ONE
step and complete a 90 degree turn before crossing a parking line. I have shown what most new riders
tend to do when they try this - that is, they tend to get to the parking line before they are fully vertical
and then go wide as they pick up speed. That is what you are trying to learn NOT TO DO.
The next diagram shows you how to correct that problem. Imagine (or actually use) cones where the red
X's are located and TRY to get as close to those cones as possible. This is target fixation working for you
again. In very short order, because you are focused on the cones instead of the lines, you will find it to be
an easy effort to ride out of any dead stop position and complete a 90 degree turn. In fact, you will find
that you have, at least to start with, actually done a 110 degree turn rather than 90 degrees and you can,
if you want, continue and make the turn into a slow speed circle because you have reached controlled
balance and speed beyond the 'safe' vertical posture you were using as an indication that the turn was
completed before you used the cones.
Once you are able to ALWAYS make the 90 degree turn without crossing the line then you can move those
cones to the ends of the line you start on instead of midway between lines and again use them as targets.
Before long you should be able to make a drive-away 140 degree turn using this practice exercise. (That,
it turns out, is what motorcycle police officers must do during their motorcycle skill competition games.)
One last thing ... slow speed control is primarily a function of your LEFT HAND and anything but gentle
and smooth braking when leaned over at slow speeds results in dumped bikes. So, keep your right hand
OFF the brake lever, and use your left hand to manage the friction zone.
For those of you who wish to do panic stop practice then here is a diagram that should help you.
Mark a starting gate and measured distances of from 15 to 25 feet. The MSF requires that you be able to
stop within 23 feet from a speed of 20 MPH. From the chart you can see that this means a deceleration
rate of just under .6Gs and a little over 1.5 seconds to accomplish.
A competent rider should EASILY be able to stop within 19 feet while a VERY SKILLED rider can, with
practice, stop within 17 feet at .7Gs. Some racers can stop within 15 feet but that should NOT BE YOUR
OBJECTIVE - it involves attaining a deceleration rate in excess of .9Gs and that, in turn, requires
exceptionally good tires and roadway surface in addition to superb braking skill.
Note that this is a PANIC STOP exercise. Highway engineers in the United States design roadways and
signals with the assumption that at least 90% of all drivers can EASILY stop their vehicles (without any
loss of control) within THIRTY-NINE (39) FEET when traveling at 20 MPH. That's a deceleration rate of only
.35Gs.
Your objective should be to stop as quickly as you can WITHOUT SKIDDING either tire.
Slow School
Introduction
Learning to make sharp turns at slow speeds is the single biggest improvement in my riding that I've made this
year (2003). It really focuses on the bike's balance and how the bike responds to acceleration a steering, and I
find myself incorporating the techniques into more of my everyday riding.
I want to draw specific attention to the fact that, at least in the beginning, the technique for doing tight turns is a
different technique than normal riding. Eventually it becomes clear that they are quite similar, but merging
them probably won't happen for a while. The "Look, Lean, Roll" and "Look through the turn" that we are
taught initially keeps the motorcycle and the bike's path in our peripheral vision, while the extreme version used
for U-turns has you unable to see the path or even the motorcycle - it relies on your ability to use the controls
without looking at them and without seeing the path you're steering. Eventually you will see that they are
actually the same technique underneath, since they both require that you look to your destination and then bring
the motorcycle around to reach it.
The distinction is important because you cannot properly practice the U-turns by merely making tighter and
tighter turns using your existing technique (looking in front of the bike). You will be able to physically turn the
bike, but you won't be able to do it "on demand" without building up to it.
What follows is an attempt to duplicate the intent (and methods) of BMW's "Slow School" which teaches lowspeed handling techniques that are based on police training. This is not "Official" instruction with any claim to
accreditation; simply a way to pass on some ways of enhancing one's ability to ride slowly and turn tight
corners.
Not everyone will immediately have the confidence to get the necessary slow-speed lean for the 20' U-turn, but
some practice at the limit of comfort will gradually move that limit. Trying to move the limit all at once will
only make for a dropped bike and wounded confidence.
Technique
Riding is generally done in first gear, with the engine at about 2500 rpm, and speed is controlled with the
clutch. Letting the clutch all the way out will give speeds that are too fast for these manuevers.
If the bike feels like it's falling into the inside, engage the clutch more (go faster) and let the centripetal force
stand the bike up more. Trying to stop will only create a prolem, as the bike will want to fall down very
abruptly.
Focus on controlling the bike (as if you weren't on it) using the hand controls rather than "riding it."
You will find yourself turning the bars to full lock. This is good! You have to apply more speed to keep the
bike upright. The goal is to keep the bars at full lock and feather the clutch to give enough speed to balance the
bike. At this point, leaning the bike (by going faster and/or shifting your weight to the outside) is the only thing
that will tighten your cornering line even more.
Sample Instruction Method
Warmup (aka evaluation)
Ride u-turns in both directions for a while with lots of space available but trying to use the least amount
possible. This will give some idea as to who has the balance and confidence necessary to "push ahead" with the
practice, and who needs to do some intermediate work first.
Practice
Confident group
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Small u-turns, with emphasis on turning head/body, then bike; tightening the turn by leaning and using
throttle to stand the bike back up again
Basic (tight) cone weave; not just to clear the cones but to use all available steering to weave through
them
Offset cone weave
20' U-turn
Subconfident group:
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Riding slowly in a straight line with higher RPM and using the clutch to modulate speed; then practice
twisting body to work on turning back in the other direction, with emphasis more on the smooth motion
than on the lean
Well-spaced cone weave; simply to work on steering at slow speeds
Tight cone weave
Sendoff
Leave the rider with tips for future self-directed practice.
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This can be done by anyone at anytime, given a vacant parking lot.
Cone substitutes: halved tennis balls, styrofoam cups filled with sand or dirt, chalk markings; be
creative, but aluminum cans might be a sliding hazard when run over
Coming up with the proper dimensions
The key is practice.
The course
Cone weave
This is a simple line of cones, tall enough that the rider must move the entire bike around them (not just the
tires). Spacing can vary down to about 12' but spacing of even 20' will force the rider to perform sharp turns,
and this would be greatly beneficial to the subconfident group.
Offset cone weave
This is two staggered rows of cones through which the riders navigate as shown below.
Tall cones are best but short cones are acceptable. Boundary lines should be provided to keep riders from
leaving the area and making their turns in the "back 40." The exact spacing of the cones really isn't that
important; as long as the rider has to completely change direction within a limited area, the exercise will be
effective. Here is a video (3.7MB) showing the offset cone weave on an R1150RT; the bike is probably doing
17' to 19' U-turns.
Other parking-lot exercises
The standard parking space layout (9' x18' spaces) presents easy opportunities for most people to practice for a
minute here and there. Working up to 2-space (18') U-turns is a great accomplishment by itself, but there is
more fun to be had:
The "Eliminator," the triple U-turn written about in BMWON, is very similar to the middle pattern shown
above:
Salina HOG Proficiency Course
One of the best ways to develop and maintain motorcycle proficiency skills is to practice slow riding
control and technique. Unfortunately, few of us ever do that, due in part to the time and effort
involved in setting up practice locations and facilities.
Thanks to some dedicated assistance from Del Palmer and Robert Lambert, we now have a
Proficiency Course available for our members to use. Hopefully, this can be maintained with once
per year re-painting. The course is located towards the Southern End of the old runway just off
Markley Road. Plans are to have some Club activities in this area, but feel free to check the facilities
out on your own. We may eventually have one or two additional exercises available.
The proficiency course currently consists of five different exercises:
Cornering range
The “Iron Cross” or Intersection Exercise
A Circle exercise
Offset Cone Weave
Slow Ride
The following pages have illustrations of each, and a brief description of how they are to be used. As
always exercise caution, wear appropriate safety gear, and ride within your ability while performing
these exercises. Remember that big advances come with a series of small steps. This is a public
use area, and as a result there may be sand, dirt, or other debris on the surface.
The Cornering Range:
The cornering range is shown on the following page, and consists of a 7’ wide riding path with a
number of curves and corners. The goal is to, first, complete the course without touching any of the
border lines, and second, to do so as rapidly as possible. A proficient target time would be about 40
seconds.
Point “A”: Come to a complete stop, with at least one foot on the ground, before continuing into the
left hand right angle turn.
Point “B”: A left hand changing radius curve.
Point “C”: Come to a complete stop, with at least one foot on the ground, before proceeding into the
right hand right angle turn.
Point “D”: A right hand changing radius curve
Point “E”: “Quick Stop” area. Accelerate out of the last curve to the brake marker (a small tick mark
on each side of the riding path). Apply brakes to make a “quick” or “panic” stop, without locking the
wheels. At full stop, place one or both feet on the ground before proceeding to the exit.
The “Iron Cross” and Circle exercises:
The Iron Cross and Circle exercises are combined in one location, just north of the Cornering range.
The Iron cross is a series of right, left and U-turns within a constricted area. Approximately 24’ is
available to make each u-turn. As a matter of perspective, almost any production motorcycle is
capable of turning within 18 feet, with an advanced rider.
To perform this exercise, enter at any on of the legs. The idea is to follow the path designated by the
arrows in the illustration, without going outside the boundary line. The exercise should be performed
in both directions.
The Circle Exercise is located in the Intersection of the Cross. This is a 24’ circle. The idea is to be
able to ride within the circle, without touching the boundary lines.
Offset Cone weave.:
This exercise helps develop quick transitions, and requires the ability to ride smooth teardrop shaped
turns. This is located just to the north of the Cross, at the east edge of the runway. It doesn’t look
like much—just a series of white dots painted on the surface to mark the location of the cones. The
purpose is to ride around the cones in a back and forth fashion, without disturbing the cones. There
should be about a 7’ gate at each cone.
Slow ride:
This is two more or less parallel lines painted on one of the old airport markers just south of the
Cornering range. The purpose is to ride between the lines at a slow walking pace, without touching
either line.
Ride Like a Pro
Warning:
While learning to perform these exercises
and while learning to perfect the techniques
in this video, there is the possibility that
you can drop your motorcycle and damage
it. There is also the possibility that you
could injure yourself. Make sure to wear
proper protective gear. A helmet, eye
protection, leather gloves, jacket and boots
are highly recommended. Be sure your
motorcycle is equipped with crash bars.
The size of the exercises and the time it takes
to perfect them are only a suggestion. Proceed
at your own pace. Make the exercises large
enough to make you feel comfortable while
learning each one. Proceed at your own risk. I,
Jerry Pallidino, assume no responsibility or
liability for damage or injuries that may occur
while learning these techniques.