Broadleaf
Evergreens
and Conifers
Rich Obal
Rutgers Cooperative
Extension, Retired
Acuba japonica “Variegata”, Gold Dust Plant – up right green plant, primarily grown for
foliage
Acuba japonica “Variegata” (continued), Grows like weed, SHADE 6’ x 6’, hardy, but needs
protection from wind.
Barberis julianae, Wintergreen Barberry – This one is tough and evergreen. Thorns! Deer will eat tender new growth, but
will avoid thorns. 7’ x 6’. Has a reddish color in fall. Likes sun and tolerates heat.
Barberis julianae (continued)
Barberis verruculosa, Warty Barberry – mounding habit.
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Buxus sempervirens, “Vadar Valley”, Boxwood – Deer will not eat. Compact. Fussy plant. Likes a high pH of 5.5 and good drainage.
Ice or snow damage may cause it to split and the resulting crotch crack is an entrance point for disease “Boxwood Canker”.
Vadar Valley Boxwood (continued) – Branching habit is more horizontal. Pops up after heavy snow.
Boxwoods detest chemical fertilizer – burn easily.
Busus microphylla “Sinica”, Little Leaf or Korean Boxwood – Asian varieties do not smell like
cat urine. 2’x6’
Cotoneaster salicifolius “Repens” , Willowleaf Cotoneaster – Member of the apple
family. Unique branching with glossy leaves an berries in fall.
Same plant grown as a groundcover.
Cotoneaster apiculatus, Cranberry cotoneaster. Dense mounds. “Semi-evergreen”.
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Cotoneaster horizontalis, Rockspray cotoneaster horizontalis. 3’ tall. Growth cascades down.
Unique texture. Pest prone in heat. Can tolerate a little shade.
Enkianthus campanulatus, Redvein Enkianthus. Small tree. Deciduous – aricaceous
plants (acid loving plants). A texture plant.
Enkianthus campanulatus (continued). Slow growing with very smooth bark. Dynamite fall color. Will tolerate a wet site.
Not one for full sun—grows like a rhododendron or azalea—half day sun. Avoid heat.
Euonymus kiautschovicus, “Manhattan”, Spreading Euonymus. Grows like a weed.
Tends to get euonymus scale.
Euonymus kiautschovicus Manhattan (continued) – Grows 2’ per year. 8’ shrub. Lime green leaves. Cheap. Burns in
winter wind and sun. Grows equally well in sun and shade. Does not get scale.
Euonymus fortunei, Wintercreeper Euonymus. Gets scale. Spreads wide. “Gold
Edge”.
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Euonymus fortunei“Silver edge” Holds its variagation. Gets hard shell scale. Same
as pacasandra (spurge).
Euonymus fortunei “Longwood” - 1’ tall groundcover – Colorados purpurea
Euonymus Japonicus “GoldSpot”, Japanese Euonymus – (educated guess). Variegation on
inside. Upright. Vigourous growers. Well drained.
Erica Sp. (Calluna Sp.), Spring Heath (not true heather which is late summer/fall bloomer and does not grow well in heat).
Aricaceous. Evergreen, hugs ground. Demands perfect drainage. Survives in acid, lean soil, with lack of nutrition. Will
take sun, but not too much shade. Can burn in winter sun or chemical fertilizer.
Erica Sp. (continued)
Ilex crenata “Convexa”, Japanese Holly – Sun to light shade. Most prunable. Stays
dense. Can tolerate wet soil.
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Ilex crenata “Hetzi”
Ilex crenata “Bee Hive” – Hollies interpolinate. Dense mound.
Ilex crenata “County Court” (Freehold) – Nose cone. Local variety.
Ilex crenata “Nigra” – darker than county court and bigger.
Ilex crenata “Helleri”, Japanese Cusion Holly – Wonderful dense
Ilex cornuta “Burfordi”, Chinese Holly (new). Now hardy here since we are now 7 (we were zone
6). Loves heat, but does not have winter cold hardiness.
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Ilex cornuta (continued) - Will produce berries w/o pollination if it’s a female.
Ilex glabra “Compata”, Inkberry Holly– Native. 6’. Tends to loose bottom leaves. Sends out
new shoots.
Ilex glabra (continued) Cheap. Tough. Will live in wet soils.
Ilex opaca “Jersey Princess”, American Holly – Tolerates salt and sterile soil.
Ilex opaca “Xanthocarpum” - Dioeceous. Boy plants or girl plants. Male produce pollen;
Female receptacle.
Ilex HYB. “Nellie Stevens”
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Ilex HYB. “Nellie Stevens” (continued)
Ilex HYB. “San Jose”
Ilex HYB. “Blue Princess”, Blue Holly
Ilex HYB. “Blue Princess” (continued). Tough. Full exposure. Not good berry producer.
English.
Ilex HYB. “China Girl”
Kalmia latifolia, Mountain Laurel. Aracacious.
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Kalmia latifolia (continued) - Easily root by cutting. Native.
Kalmia latifolia (continued) “Ostobo red”. High shade. Deer avoid.
Leucothoe fontanesiana, Drooping Leucothoe. Tender. Grow protected from heat or full
exposure to sun and wind. Needs moisture retentive soil. Can get canker if too hot.
Magnolia grandiflora, Southern or Evergreen Magnolia. Doing better here with
warmer climate. Needs winter wind protection.
Magnolia grandiflora (continued). Fragrant flowers in spring. Very weak wood. Break in
snow & ice.
Mahonia aquifolium, Oregon Grape Holly – From low ground cover to 7’
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Mahonia aquifolium (continued). Holly like, but softer.
Mahonia aquifolium (continued)--Grapes” are desireable, but not a heat loving plant. Grow in shade to reduce heat, not
to avoid sun. Rare to have good specimen here in our climate. Grows well in Oregon.
Pieris japonica, Japanese Andromeda. Blooms in spring. Acid soil, adequate moisture, good
drainage. Poster child for lacebug, so keep out of hot sun. Deer don’t like them.
Pieris japonica “Red mill”. Slow growing, compact.
Pieris japonica “Valley Valentine”, Pink Andromeda
Prunum laurocerasus, Cherry Laurel – many forms. Upright 9-10’ rapid grower very popular. Does not like winter wind
and sun. Grows in dense shade. Cherry blossom fragrance and birds love berries.
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Rhododendron-Azalea. All azaleas have hairly leaves. All azaleas are rhododendrons (but not all rhododendrons are
azaleas). Rhododendrons produce clusters of bell shaped flowers. Azaleas have trumpet flowers. In the flower, there are
5 anthers in azaleas, rhodies have 10. Most rhodies are evergreen, but not all. Aracacious. Surface, fiber roots. Never let
them dry out. Cool roots. But too much water will give root rot. Like cool tops. Good drainage. Deer prefer azaleas to
rhodies.
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) Wider range of colors in azaleas and very
generally a little more heat tolerant.
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) - Longwood Gardens
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) “Poukhanense”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) “Delaware Valley White”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) “Pink Pearl”
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Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) “Hino Crimson”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) “Purple Splendor”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued) “Ramapo”. Blue is rare. Temperamental. Grows well in
containers in nursery. Likes cooler climes.
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) “PJM”. Tough. Takes some heat. Takes drought a little
better.
Rhododendron-Azalea “PJM” (continued). Foliage.
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) “Catwbiense Alba”
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Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) “Scintilation”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) “Blue Peter”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) “Exbury”
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued )
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) – “Maximum”. Native.
Rhododendron-Azalea (continued ) - Black vine weevil notches. Also eats roots.
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Skimmia japonica, Japanese Skimmia . Dioceses. Shady, adequate moisture. A little
temperamental. Organic matter.
Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Leatherleaf Viburnum.
Viburnum rhytidophyllum (continued). Can get beat up in winter wind.
Viburnum X pragense, Prague Viburnum
Conifers
Advantages of container plants (as opposed to balled & burlapped-b&b, or bare root) is that they are easily
transplanted at almost any time of year, though be sure to score the root ball before planting if roots are “pot
bound”. A disadvantage is that these containers hold heat and can cause heat stress to the plant or drought
conditions in the summer. In the winter, if left exposed, the root ball can freeze. By keeping the containers
clustered, as in the picture above, the plants in the center are somewhat protected.
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Abies concolor, White (Concolor) Fir – A true fir
Abies concolor (continued). Looks like blue spruce with longer needles. Fragrant. Lemony. One of the only firs recommended to grow here;
tolerates heat and pollution. Softer needles than spruce. All firs have flat needles; spruce needles have ridges.
Cedrus atlantica “Glauca”, Atlas Blue Cedar – A true cedar
Cedrus atlantica - Unique cluster type foliage. Upright candles.
Cedrus atlantica “Pendula”, Weeping Atlas Blue Cedar. Requires support as it grows larger. Good plant for espalde plantings
(flat up against a wall).
Chamaecyparis obtusa, Hinoki False Cypress. Slow growing.
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Chamaecyparis obtusa (continued)“Crippsii” , Golden Honoki Cypress
Chamaecyparis obtusa (continued) “Nana”, Dwarf Honoki Cypress
Chamaecyparis obtusa (continued) Drarf Hinoki Cypress -- Compact
Chamaecyparis obtusa (continued)“Filicoides”, Fern Leaf Hinoki Cypress
Chamaecyparis obtusa (continued)“Filicoides”. Practically unprunable. Leave natural graceful shape.
Chamaecyparis pisifera “Filifera Aurea”, Golden Mop.
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Chamaecyparis nootkatensis “Pendula”, Weeping Alaska Cedar. Avoid wind corridors. From wet and humid climate. Small,
fibrous root system.
X Cupressocyparis leylandii, Leyland Cypress. Can be grown in this area since we are a now zone 7. Grown in south for years.
After reaching 20-25 feet, will spread wide.
X Cupressocyparis leylandii (continued) – Grows 3-5 ft per year, but will break under ice and snow.
Cryptomeria japonica – Japanese Cedar
Cryptomeria japonica (continued). A little bothered by pests. Good drainage.
Cryptomeria japonica (continued) “Nana”, Dwarf Japanese Cedar
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Juniperus chinensis “Hetzi”, Chinese Juniper – sun, hot, heat, dry
Juniperus chinensis (continued) “Robusta Green”
Juniperus chinensis (continued) “Torulosa”, Hollywood Juniper
Juniperus chinensis (continued) “Sargenti”, Sargent Juniper
Juniperus chinensis (continued). Spreading
Juniperus chinensis (continued) “Gold Coast”, Gold Coast Juniper
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Juniperus scopolorum “Sky Rocket”, Rocky Mountain Juniper
Juniperus scopolorum (continued) “Blue Heaven” – Most conifers tolerate of a range of pH. Whenever a conifer is blue, pH
should be high alkaline (calcium)
Juniperus horizontalis “Douglasii”, Creeping Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis “Wiltoni”, Blue Rug
Juniperus conferta, Shore Juniper
Juniperus sabina “Blue Forest “, Savin Juniper
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Juniperus sabina (continued) “Tamariscifolia”, Tam Juniper
Juniperus procumbens “nana”, Japanese Garden Juniper. Slow growing. Hot, dry, good drainage.
Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Dawn Redwood. Deciduous conifer. “Dawn of Time” found in China, thought to be extinct.
Tolerates moisture.
Picea abies, Norway spruce
Picea abies (continued) Gets better with age.
Picea abies (continued) “Pendula”, Weeping Spruce – Trained to this form.
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Picea abies (continued) “Nidiformis”, Birdsnest Spruce
Picea glauca “Conica”, Dwarf Alberta Spruce. Compact; no pruning. Spider mite prone. Does not like heat. Age, heat,
drought stress = spruce canker killing branches from lower up.
Picea ormorika, Serbian Spruce
Picea pungens “Glauca”, Colorado Blue Spruce. Color varies by plant when grown from seed (not grafted).
Picea pungens (continued) “Globosa”, Globe Blue Spruce
Picea pungens (continued) “Pendula”, Weeping Blue Spruce. This is a Weeping Blue Spruce that was not pruned to weep)
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Picea pungens (continued). Colorado Blue Spruce damage from heat, drought and mechanical damage. Affects lower
branches first and specific branches. Succumbs to canker disease.
Pinus cembra, Swiss Stone Pine. Needles on pines are tied up in little bundles. (As opposed to spruces and firs where the needles come out of
the branches.) This is a 5-needle pine which generally does better in NJ). 2&3-needle pines, such as Scotch Pine and Austrian Pine, are more
prone to disease, such as diplodia tip blight, and insect pests.
Pinus cembra (continued). Blue form of Swiss Stone Pine
Pinus densiflora “Tanyosho”, Japanese Table Top Pine” – shrub form.
Pinus densiflora (continued) “Oculus-Draconis”, Dragon Eye Pine– Very unique. Interesting, but weak.
Pinus flexilis “Glauca”, Blue Limber Pine
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Pinus griffithii, Himalayan Pine
Pinus griffithii (continued). Do not see many around. Not long lived in this area.
Pinus mugo “Pumilo”, Dwarf Mugo Pine
Pinus nigra, Austrian Pine – 2&3 needle pine. Diplodia tip blight will eventually eliminate from our landscape.
Pinus nigra (continued). Tip blight starts in lower branches. Fungal organism is a parasite in our environment.
Scotch Pine (another 2-3 needle pine seen a few slides later in this presentation) seen here afflicted with diplopia tip blight.
Once weakened, the scent attracts round worms, clogging the xylem & phloem.
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Pinus parviflora, Japanese White Pine
Pinus strobus, Eastern White Pine, a native White Pine
Pinus strobus (continued). A White Pine hedge planted to closely, crowding out foliage.
Pinus strobus (continued) “Fastigiata”, Columnar White Pine
Pinus strobus (continued) “Nana”, Dwarf White Pine. Compact.
Pinus strobus (continued) “Pendula”, Weeping White Pine
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Pinus sylvestris, Scotch Pine
Pinus sylvestris (continued). Scotch Pine no longer recommended.
Pinus thunbergii, Japanese Black Pine. 2&3 needle pine. Most salt tolerant. Monoculture up and down the east coast.
Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglass Fir – Classic Christmas Tree
Pseudotsuga menziesii (continued). Soft blue-green needles; grows rapidly, but needlecast is affecting in here due to warmer
climate.
Sciadopitys verticillata, Japanese Umbrella Pine. Expensive. Grows well and slowly.
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Taxus cuspidata “Capitata”, Japanese Yew. Deer Food.
Taxus cuspidata (continued), Taxus X media “Hatfield”, Columnar Yew
Taxus cuspidata (continued), Taxus X media “Densiformis”, Dense Spreading Yew
Taxus cuspidata, Taxus X media “Densiformis”, (continued)
Taxus baccata, English Yew
Taxus baccata “Repandens”, Weeping English Yew
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Thuja occidentalis “Emerald Green”, American Arborvitae. Takes moisture. Grows rapidly.
Thuja occidentalis “Emerald Green”, American Arborvitae (continued)
Thuja occidentalis “Emerald Green”, American Arborvitae . Arborvitae used as narrow fence.
Thuja occidentalis (continued) “Woodwardi”, Globe Arborvitae
Tsuga canadensis, Canadian Hemlock
Tsuga canadensis (continued). Prunable!
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Tsuga canadensis (continued) “Pendula”, Weeping Hemlock
Tsuga canadensis (continued). Wooly Adelgid pest on hemlock.
Rich Obal
Rutgers Cooperative Extension, Retired
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