JCA 30 Southern Magnesian Limestone
FGU Summary: Comprising an elevated ridge with smoothly rolling landform, this area is dissected by
dry valleys of predominantly Magnesium Limestone geology. It extends in a narrow band nearly the
length of the Yorkshire and Humber region from near Bedale into Derbyshire. 11% of the area is urban,
7% is woodland, 73% is cultivated and only 1% is designated SSSI.
3 sub-units: urban fringe (adjacent to Ripon, Knaresborough and Harrogate, Knottingley Pontefract,
Worksop, Mansfield, Wetherby, Bolsover, and Nottingham); narrow limestone valleys, such as those of
the Nidd, Aire and Don; limestone escarpment.
1.
Settlement & Development
Mesolithic and Neolithic activity is widely reflected by the discovery of stone tools and flint scatters.
Notable grouping of Neolithic long barrows, henge monuments, the latter particularly north-east and
north of Ripon (eg Thornborough Circles next to river Ure). Extensive and well-preserved evidence for
Bronze Age/Iron Age settlement – for example cropmarks of Iron Age/Romano-British period enclosed
and unenclosed farmsteads with round houses and co-axial field systems. Iron Age Grims Ditch east of
Leeds. The landscape has been influenced by the Roman occupation, with Dere Street forming the
basis for much of the route of the modern A1.
Ripon had developed as an ecclesiastical centre from the 7th century (Shrine of St Wilfrid), and in 12th
century as planned borough with a market and church of collegiate canons. Knaresborough originated
as medieval market centre between Pennines and Vale of York, and as textile centre, until decline from
early 19th century. Pontrefact developed as a Markey centre from the 14th century,
Present strong pattern of nucleated settlement, most strongly marked to north east (Ripon to Wetherby,
originates late 11th-13th centuries. High concentration of deserted/shrunken medieval settlement,
marking contraction from the high water mark of medieval settlement in the early 14th century.
Very low levels of dispersed settlement. Isolated farmsteads relate to shrunken settlements, former
medieval grange farms and post-medieval enclosure landscapes. Establishment of parks marked from
16th century - parkland (Bedale Hall, Hardwick Hall, Studley Royal and the landscaping of the former
Cisterian monastery of Fountains) is now a strong feature of this area, as also are villages (eg
Sprotborough) with schools, houses etc built by these estates.
Some rivers (especially the Aire and Don) have provided link between ports on east coast (especially
the Humber), and became heavily industrialised in the 19th and 20th centuries. Exploitation of concealed
coalfields with deeper shafts from late 19th century strengthened the pattern of nucleation, with
development of earlier or development of new settlements (eg New Rossington as example of early 20th
century garden city planning).
Coal deposits in the west; collieries in valleys and on escarpment. Limestone quarrying influences the
landscape, especially in the central and southern parts of the ridge.
Country houses, together with their landscaped gardens and wider settings, form a major feature of this
area and include landmarks in the development of the English landscape style – eg Studley Royal and
its water gardens.
Pre-17th century timber frame now largely confined to towns, where is commonly reclad. The creamy
white Magnesium Limestone is widely used in local buildings, occasionally combined with brick or stone
cobbles, and the roofing material is commonly red pantiles. 19th century terraces in industrial
settlements of brick and slate, and brick increasing used in 20th century.
2.
Agriculture
Well-drained and calcareous brown earths suited to long history of arable cultivation, from Neolithic
period, with pasture to steeper slopes and valley bottoms.Large-scale steadings, mostly the result of
rebuilding from the later 18th century, are commonplace. Mix of dispersed and courtyard plans with
some pre-1750 lobby-entrance farmhouses and large and symmetrical double-depth farmhouses dating
from later 18th century.
Medium density of pre-1750 farmsteads. Some pre-1840 threshing barns, most steadings dominated by
combination barns (dating from late 18th century), with threshing barns (often with small doors to
threshing bay) to centre or one side of stabling, cartshed/s or (less frequently) cattle housing, with firstfloor granaries and mixing houses. Combined cartshed and granary ranges a distinctive feature,
especially on large farms.
3.
Fields and Boundary Patterns
Sparse hedges and stone walls are the typical boundary divisions.
Open-field farming was extensive until the later 17th century, after which the present-day predominant
pattern of large-scale fields and isolated farmsteads was established. Earlier small-scale and irregular
enclosures are concentrated around villages, these marked by distinctive strip patterns, and to scarpslope landscapes, the latter with some associated farmsteads,
4.
Trees and Woodland
Mostly cleared of its woodland by the Bronze Age, and still little-wooded in late 11th century. Large
blocks of woodland, closely linked to development of estates from 17th century and including plantations
and coverts for field sports. Ancient woodland mostly confined to ridge tops, scarp slopes and valleys.
5.
Semi-Natural Environments
Unimproved grassland, permanent pasture on steeper slopes or in valley bottoms.
6.
River & Coastal Features
Packhorse bridges and masonry bridges, the latter part of the two main concentrations of medieval-18th
century bridges in England (Devon and Cornwall, and north and west Yorkshire). Significant local
architects such as Robert Carr worked as county surveyors on bridge-building projects in the 18th
century.