ECOTOURISM DEVELOPMENT PROJECT IN MURGHAB DISTRICT (EASTERN PAMIR) TAJIKISTAN MISSION REPORT Light version for the Internet (March – April, 2003) Author: Guy DELAUNAY EQUATERRE equaterre@aol.com 1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................... 4 ACTORS OF THE PROJECT................................................................................................ 4 ACTED................................................................................................................................... 4 UNESCO ................................................................................................................................ 5 TERRITORY ANALYSIS ...................................................................................................... 5 MAIN PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND REGIONAL INTEGRATION ................. 6 BIODIVERSITY .......................................................................................................................... 8 SOCIOLOGY, CULTURE AND HERITAGE ..................................................................... 9 ECOTOURISM ...................................................................................................................... 10 THE EXISTING TOURISM ......................................................................................................... 10 THE ECOTOURISM PROJECT .................................................................................................... 13 potentials .......................................................................................................................... 14 human resources .............................................................................................................. 18 FIELDS OF INTERVENTION............................................................................................. 20 LOCAL CONTEXT ............................................................................................................. 20 EVALUATION OF TRAINING NEEDS ............................................................................ 20 GENERAL CONTENTS OF TRAININGS PER ACTORS CATEGORIES: ...................... 22 PLANNING OF TRAININGS ........................................................................................... 23 FINANCING TECHNICAL CAPACITIES AND MARKETING ....................................... 25 MARKETING ................................................................................................................... 32 PROMOTIONAL TOOLS ................................................................................................. 34 Product: discovery tour“in star” ..................................................................................... 37 PHASE 2 ........................................................................................................................... 37 PHASE 3 ........................................................................................................................... 38 THE “ CARAVAN ” PROJECT .......................................................................................... 38 PROGRAMMATION (TABLE) .................................................................................................... 45 INVESTMENT PLAN ................................................................................................................. 46 PROFITABILITY OF VEHICLES ...................................................................................... 49 LOGICAL FRAME .............................................................................................................. 49 COMPLEMENTARY SUPPORT MODES ......... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED. CONCLUSION ....................................................................................................................... 53 ANNEXES ............................................................................................................................... 54 1. SUMMARIZED BIBLIOGRAPHY ............................................................................ 55 2. LIST OF PERSONS MET ............................................................................................ 57 3. COMMON ALTITUDE ILLNESSES ............................................................................. 58 3. THE MARCO POLO ........................................................................................................ 62 4 CULTURE, TRADITIONS ............................................................................................... 64 5. PHOTOGRAPHIC DOCUMENTS.................................................................................. 67 PROGRAMME OF FIELD VISITS ..................................................................................... 67 6. UPDATE ON PHIP TOURISM ACTIVITIES ................................................................. 69 7. FOLLOW-UP COMMUNICATION ............................................................................... 73 8 -ECOTOURISM ITINERARY IN EAST PAMIR - 16 DAYS ........................................... 77 2 9. ECOTOURISM ITINERARY IN EAST PAMIR 17 DAYS .............................................. 79 3 th th INTRODUCTION From March 20 to April 9 , a mission led by Guy Delaunay (Ecotourism expert) and Albert Longy (in charge of the PHIP in Murghab) has enabled to better distinguish feasibility opportunities and constraints of an ecotourism development project in Murgab district. Considered as one of the harshest mountainous zones of Central Asia, the region suffers from its enclaved position between Afghanistan and China, and remains apart from the main roads. It is remote from Tajikistan’s easily up-and-coming touristic zones. Nevertheless, high plateaus of the Eastern Pamir remain highly suggestive for potential visitors of mystery and discovery at the border of the unknown, a country at the edge of the sky, a genuine wind of adventure blows. The PHIP supported by the NGO ACTED has designed an ecotourism development project to help a little group of Murghab villagers as well as the pastoral community of the district. Despite many obstacles left to overcome, it is obvious that the potential of ecotouristic development is real and could rapidly attract a substantial amount of visitors. The local human resources and infrastructures do not allow yet to envision a regular flow of visitors. This report mainly focuses on a diagnosis of feasibility, an analysis of the human and physical resources required and how to upgrade an association structure able to enhance ecotourism activities in the region. The expectations created among the local population are tremendous. The hospitality tradition in the country is a real asset, but the risk is high that inappropriate structures destroy the expected benefits owing to the fragility of ecocultural balances and the lack of continuity of financial support by NGO’s or other sponsors. Besides, the fragility of the ecological system and of its endemic resources (particularly the Marco Polo) deserves a careful and consensual assessment and management in order to ensure an optimal conservation and valorization of this vast territory. Lastly, it is necessary to set this project in a wider focus beyond the sole Murghab district: tourism in the Pamirs is directly linked to wider geographical and cultural ensembles Kyrgyzstan and the Ferghana Valley in the north, the Wakhan, Afghanistan and Pakistan in the south and, in the long run, China at east. The pacification of these zones should lead in the near future to a constant flow of tourists toppling by far previous flows before the invasion of Afghanistan by the Soviet army. ACTORS OF THE PROJECT ACTED ACTED is a Non-Governmental Organisation operating since 1993 in various Central Asian countries. Its projects, at first focused on relief then integrated into long term programmes (agricultural development and microfinance activities), embrace all aspects of integrated development. In Murghab district, life conditions are precarious and the search for new potentials led the permanent staff (Albert and Nathalie Longy) to an advanced reflection on the possibility to insert an ecotourism project into the integrated development programme launched on this vast territory. As this component is not their specialty, they asked an ecotourism specialist to assess the potential of the zone. This report is the result of the investigations led during his last mission. 4 UNESCO UNESCO supports a regional ecotourism development programme in Central Asia/Himalaya as well as local initiatives, trying to build up links and constructive exchanges between the different projects. UNESCO therefore selected the PHIP project and supported it financially. The different seminars organized by UNESCO allowed to establish a number of links. SDC The Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC) is working in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, funding development projects with a focus on good governance. It has been funding PHIP since it’s beginning in 1999. A major part goes into the setup of the project, thus enabling an infrastructure able to tackle the various logistical and practical problems of the marginal region. PHIP consists of various components, and Ecotourism is one of them. Report distribution list In order to insure the efficiency of the collected information during the mission, a wide distribution is recommended. Many conclusions and recommendations could be immediately useful in order to reach the goals of the project. With the approval of the ACTED managing team, we suggest the following agenda: - Complete report Murghab ecotourism association Francis Childe and David Tresilian (UNESCO) Experts interacting in the zone : o Rodney JACKSON, Nandita JAIN, Markus HAUSER, Dr. Pr. Hermann KREUTZMANN, Roland BESENVAL, Ms BUBNOVA - Ministry of tourism (others ? Foreign Affairs, Environment) of the Republic of Tajikistan (after a first formal meeting). Selection of extracts and CD-Rom - European specialized agencies and tour operators ; - Editors of touristic guides concerned - Various Kirghiz agencies concerned TERRITORY ANALYSIS (Short diagnosis) Information included in this chapter is far from being complete. It was selected to help building the ecotourism project. The documentary research on the different components of the project is still going on. Physical territory and regional integration The following map allows to visualize the geopolitical context of Murghab district: 5 - Isolation from Dushanbe, Tajikistan’s capital, Relative proximity to Kyrgyzstan’s southern boarder, Nearness of the Chinese boarder, east Closeness to the Wakhan corridor, opening onto northern Afghanistan and Pakistan territories GEOGRAPHICAL CONTEXT MAIN PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND REGIONAL INTEGRATION The Eastern Pamir’s high plateau is located at an average altitude of 4000 meters, and is accessible only through passes which are all situated above 4000m. Result of unique orogenic shocks and tensions in the world, the Pamirs are at the same time a geological sanctuary and a reservoir irrigating the valleys and the plains of the region (Amu-Darya and Tarim basins). The highest peaks of the Pamirs top 7000m (Peak Communism- 7495 m) A unique wide-scale ensemble of glaciers the mountainous caracterises the landscape of the central Pamirs (Fedchenko glacier, 77 km long). The Pamirs’ fringes extend towards Afghanistan, Pakistan, China and Kyrgyzstan. The highest mountains are located in the autonomous province (Oblast) of Gorno-Badakhshan. Two deep furrows characterize north and south: the Wakhan corridor down south and the Trans Alay range up north. The Sarykol Pamir, at East, delimits the Xinjiang region. Pianj River demarcates the territory of southern Pamir. Murghab district The zone of our specific interest is delimited at East by the Chinese boarder (Autonomous region of Oïghur Xinjiang) and the Fedchenko glacier, North-West. The extreme altitude of the plateau and the relatively low altitude difference to the surrounding peaks, does not give the region an alpine appearance. This stands in contrast to 6 the Western Pamirs. Moreover, rivers have not dug deep ravines into the plateau, giving to the landscape a appearance of infinite immenseness randomly scattered with mountains. Next to the boarder, the Kashgar range dominates the eastern part of the Murghab district (The Mustagata peaks at 7546m). Lakes Lake Karakul is the biggest lake of the Oriental Pamirs. Apparently it has been formed by the impact of a giant meteorite. Numerous lakes are located in lower altitude zones. Lake Sarez has been recently formed as a mountain collapsed, which blocked the Murgab valley. Other lakes from diverse origins scatter the territory. Roads A road called the Pamir Highway crosses the district, connecting Osh (Kyrgyzstan) to Khorog (southern Pamir in Tajikistan). A branch of the road connects the city of Kashgar (China) near Sary Tash (160 km from Osh). A network of roads and tracks connects the different villages around Murghab, the district’s capital. A road project East of Murghab would allow reaching Kashgar. From an economic and touristic viewpoint, this road would create a strategic opening favorable to the development of the zone. GEOLOGY Aridity is extreme. Organic materials in the ground are scarce. Several high altitude glaciers present an amazing variety of relief. The geology of the Pamirs is complex and exceptionally rich in minerals. The underground is amazingly rich in precious or half-precious stones (rubies…). The geological diversity is astonishing, with many transitions from marine limestone to metamorphic rocks to bituminous schists and detritic plateaus. ECONOMIC INCOMES Income per inhabitant does not exceed by far 1US $ a day. Breeding of yak and sheep are the only activities. Under the impulse of ACTED, a few inhabitants try to develop altitude agricultural activities. Population is very dependant on international aid and the rigorous climate constantly threatens the survival of the population (particularly at spring, if the snow cover does not clear out the mountain pasture). Moreover, the opening of roads is very irregular at this period, and depends on late snow. CONTEXTE GEOPOLITIQUE GEOPOLITICAL CONTEXT The sizing of the ecotouristic development, like all other components of development, is closely linked to the geopolitical situation of the Murghab region. The eastern plateau, having a complex ethnic identity, bares the pressure of powerful zones of demographic development, next to the Chinese border. Murghab depends for a great part on international aid and remains a fragile region sensitive to any modification of balances possibly leading to an increased or decreased autonomy, or having an impact not only on the local population, but also on the population downstream. 7 For example, increase of high-altitude irrigated agriculture should have an enormous impact in terms of water resources not only on the local population, but also on villagers living downstream. The vision of the Tajik government and its development strategy still have to be understood before embarking on any initiatives modifying the actual situation. Moreover, the region has not been politically stabilized up to this day and a shift in the treatment of visitors (visas) can any time jeopardize the efforts made to build the ecotouristic sector. BIODIVERSITY The soil’s aridity is extreme. The ground consists of a dry steppe where the tersken grows. This plant is adapted to altitude, to solar radiations and drought. It plays an important role in the local economy as a source of energy. Mountain pastures represent a poor biomass which only a selected species are able to assimilate (yaks, sheep and the wild faun). Despite the harsh conditions, the density of animals is surprising. This biodiversity is an undeniable asset for the future development of ecotourism. A rich biodiversity and a high rate of endemism Despite the apparent poverty of soils, natural resources regarding faun as well as flora display an astonishing diversity. The faun of the Pamirs: “Marco Polo”, argali, ibex, snow leopard, birds of prey, migrating birds, yaks, Bactrian camels. The flora of the Pamirs includes high altitude flora, low vegetation, important diversity and resources in medicinal plants and plants to be used for natural dyeing poorly or inefficiently exploited. A biodiversity under human pressure •Loss of Biomass (tersken is used as a substitution energy) : the periphery zone of Murghab watches its main resource run out without any hopes to renew it. •Intense poaching of the great faun, “Marco Polo” argali and ibex (statistics available are unreliable). The presence of the Marco Polo is a highly valuable touristic resource. In the annex (See The Marco Polo in annex) two viewpoints oppose on this particular question: A scientist on the one hand and a hunter on the other hand). •Disorganized protected areas and poor means of protection The following sites contain useful indications on the biodiversity of the Tajik Pamirs. http://www.grida.no/enrin/htmls/tadjik/soe2/eng/index.htm http://www.worldwildlife.org/wildworld/profiles/terrestrial/pa/pa1014_full.html 8 http://www.biofor.com/documents/Tajikistan.pdf http://www.humboldt.edu/~sc10/cv.html http://www.peopleandplanet.net/doc.php?id=1422 http://www.cites.org/ http://lnweb18.worldbank.org/essd/essdext.nsf/45ByDocName/ThemesBiodiversity POPULATION Mainly Kyrgyz and Pamiri Tajiks. Population density is very low. As they came back to nomadism by necessity, villagers take up vast mountain pastures (Jailo) and put up yurts for the summer. Certain jailos are inhabited all year round when local climates allow it. Sheep and yaks are the main wealth of the country. SOCIOLOGY, CULTURE AND HERITAGE Despite the long lasting Soviet presence, the Gorno-Badakhshan Kyrgyz communities living on the Pamir plateau have retained a traditional tribe culture and a strong half-nomadic culture which eventually allowed them to partly succeed in the transition from collectivism to a still precarious subsistence economy relying on yak breeding, without any possibility of diversification. Adaptation to extreme climatic conditions has implied very strict hospitality rules that are still strictly respected. These rules have not changed since the description of the first travellers at the beginning of the century. Rock drawings testify of the presence of Saka tribes so early as 7 centuries B.C. In the south of the district, Pamiri Tajik are more numerous. They are Shiite muslims from the Ismaeli sect. HOLIDAYS Varies: Amazan After Ramazan: Qurban March 21st: Bât, celebration of spring March 23rd: Navrouz, New Year’s March 24th: also called “Rooz-ee-Nur”, the day of light recalls the first visit of the Aga Khan in the Pamirs in 1995. July 11th: Takhtnichini, day of the Imam Celebrations, handicraft and musical traditions, etc are described in annex (Culture and traditions). ARCHEOLOGY Soviet scientists have put to light several archeological sites. Indeed, these leftovers from the past are not very spectacular and the identification of certain sites has not been completed. Research work in the field (GPS) as well as in the archives is needed. Yet, several sites are worth a visit: - Former mining cities of Bazar Dara (XI), Jyttap-Tabar and Sasyk. 9 Mining city of Bazar Dara - A temple in Bazar Dara Tombs of the Saka civilization (Kara Domor, next to lake Yashikul, Ak Tash, Togorok –Baman, Zor-Kol, Kalta-Tor) Petroglyphs in Shakarak, Naiza-Tash, Ak Jylga. Ibex engravings An inventory of these sites is ongoing and will allow to complete the future touristic map of the Pamirs. Ecotourism THE EXISTING TOURISM Investigations into the existing touristic offer will allow to emphasize the total lack of touristic activity in the Murghab zone. Two products are nevertheless already available in the zone and should be used as a basis for further reflection in MEA and planning its future activity in the field. Tajik agencies A limited offer with poor financial results: •Trekking near the Fedchenko glacier; • Jeep-tour “ Pamir ” For information, the programmes of the agency “Tajik travel.” (noc@tajik.net) In bold and in italics, the part of the trip directly concerning Murghab region. FEDCHENKO GLACIER– ICE HEART OF THE PAMIR The Fedchenko Glacier, one of the biggest glaciers in the world (more than 70 km long) is situated in the Central Pamir region. Trekking takes place from 3000 to 4800 m above sea level. Accompaniment with porters. Trek on glaciers Fedchenko, Tanymas, Nalivkin – in links (two person together). No particular technical troubles have been reported during trekking. Any healthy person can be the member of trekking team if being on height is not contraindicated. Maximum weight for porters: 15 kg per person. Personal equipment: warm clothes, raincoat, snow trekking boots, sleeping bag, sun glasses, ice-axe, two carabiners. Group size: 12 persons maximum Duration of the tour: 20 days Season: July –first part of September Day 0 – Arrival in Tashkent (capital of Uzbekistan), travel by car to Khojent city (former Leninabad in Tajikistan, 2-3 hrs), overnight hotel or camping near the city on Kayrakkum artificial reservoir beach Day 1 - Camping, sightseeing in Khojent (bazaar, traditional mosque, oriental lunch in tea house), flight to Dushanbe (50 min), overnight hotel or local house in Dushanbe Day 2 - City tour in Dushanbe (the beautiful capital of Tajikistan, surrounded by mountains, museums, bazaar) overnight hotel 10 Day 3 - By car Dushanbe- Kalaykhumb town (about 300 km), overnight in tents or local houses Day 4 - By car Kalaykhumb – Khorog (about 250 km), overnight in tents or local house Day 5 – Trip by car Khorog –Murgab (about 320 km), overnight local house or tents Day 6 – Trip by car Murgab-Muzkol river-Kokjar lake, overnight tents Days 7 - 16 TREKKING: Kokjar lake –Tanymas river (about 12 km)-along Tanymas River-near Grum Grjimailo glacier (about 12 km)-along Tanymas river-near Tanymas glacier (about 12 km)Tanymas glacier-Tanymas pass-Fedchenko glacier (about 6 km)- near Nalivkin glacier (about 6 km)- near Aral pass (about 12 km) – Aral pass (4685m) – Nord Tanymas glacier (about 10 km) Tanymas river (about 10 km)-along Tanymas river-Kokjar lake, overnight tents. Day 17 - By car Kokjar lake – Osh (Kyrgyzstan), overnight hotel Day 18 - Morning sightseeing in Osh (bazaar, Solomon’s Throne/Muslim place of pilgrimage) than by car to Tashkent, overnight hotel Day 19 - Sightseeing in the city, flight from Tashkent Day 20 - Reserve day for unforeseen delays This programme is also available at Tajik Travel JEEP TOUR & TREKKING “PAMIR-SILK ROAD” Group size: 2-14 persons Duration of the tour: 20 days Season: June-October Day 0 - Flight to Tashkent (capital of Uzbekistan), trip by car to Khojent (former Leninabad in Tajikistan, 3-4 hrs), overnight in a hotel or a camping in Kayrakkum beach (an artificial reservoir near the city) Day 1 - Sightseeing in Khojent (one of Tajikistan’s oldest towns, founded by Alexander the Great as his easternmost outpost, Alexandreia-Eskhate, more than 2300 years ago), overnight hotel or camping Day 2 – Travel by car Khojent –Osh in Kyrgyzstan (one of the region’s genuinely ancient towns, with a history dating back at least to the 5th century BC – its position as an important crossroads for Silk Road trade, its broad mixture of peoples, and its huge bazar), overnight hotel Day 3 - By car Osh-Sary Tash village (the road winding up, down and round green hills and mountains)- Muzkol river area (high-altitude desert landscape), overnight tents Day 4 - By car Muzkol river-Murgab (the road climbs towards the Ak-Baital/White Horse/ pass, at 4655 m, Lake Karakul /Black lake, the highest lake in Central Asia, created by a meteor up on a windwhipped mountain plateau, an important bird-nesting habitat), overnight tents or local house Day 5 - By car Murgab (3600m above sea level)-Vrang village-Shitkhar village, overnight tents or local house Day 6 - By car Shitharv village-Ishkashym town-Garmchashma hot springs, overnight camping Day 7 - By car Garmchashma-Khorog (a small, mountain-valley town, the capital of the autonomous Gorno- Badakhshan region, 2000 metres above sea level)-Rushan-Nisur village (Bartang river area, during the trip the landscape is wild and overwhelmingly beautiful with snow-capped peaks in view), overnight tents Days 8 - 10 TREKKING: Nisur village-Barchadiv village-Usoy blocked-Sarez lake (formed in 1911 after massive earthquakes shook loose earthflows that dammed Murgab river canyons, the lake level rose 240 m, inundating 75 km before a subterranean channel burst through the center of the earthen dam and reestablished the river)-Nisur village,overnight in tents Day 11 - By car Nisur village-Rushan town-Kalaykhumb town, overnight tents or local house Day 12 - By car Kalaykhumb- Kulyab city, overnight hotel or camping near the city 11 Day 13 - By car Kulyab-Dushanbe city- beautiful capital of Tajikistan, surrounded by mountains, overnight hotel or local house Day 14 - Sightseeing in Dushanbe (museums, bazaar, Gissar fortress near the city), overnight hotel or local house Day 15 - By car Dushanbe-Anzob pass (3300m)-Aini village(lunch in the tea house)-Penjikent(small town surrounded by the Fan Mountain and located at the border with Uzbekistan), overnight local house or hotel Day 16 –Sightseeing in Penjikent (founded in the fifth centuty by the Sogdians, visit to local museum and small bazaar), than by car to Bukhara (7-8 hrs., – city which has been a centre of Sogdiana for about 2000 years), overnight hotel Day 17 - Sightseeing in Bukhara(city monuments, ancient baths, Medresa fortress, Kalyan minaret), overnight hotel Day 18 - Sightseeing in Bukhara (Sitorai Mokhi Hosa -the Residency of the last Emir of Bukhara) and after lunch by car to Samarkand (5-6 hrs., – is one of the centers of past civilizations), overnight hotel Day 19 - Sightseeing in Samarkand (Marakanda to the Greeks, one of Central Asia’s oldest settlements, was probably founded in the 5th century BC; Registan, Bibi Khanum Mosque, the Ulughbek’s observatory, the Gur Emir Mausoleum), overnight hotel Day 20 - By car Samarkand-Tashkent(5-6 hrs), flight from TashkentInternational specialized agencies • Mountaineering and exploration products: Germany, Great Britain (EWP) Expeditions are led by about ten people and do not occur every year. Individual tourism • expatriatess • Hitchhikers • A few raids in 4WD These categories only amount for about 30 “tourists” a year. Agencies • none! No agency currently markets any specific product in the zone. Research of agencies marketing trips in the nearest regions. AGENCIES Country Products Number of Price trips 4 2580 euros Terres d’Aventure Tadjikistan Terres d’Aventure Kazakhstan/ Kirgyzstan Terres d’Aventure China EWP email ewp@ewpnet.com Tadjikistan Trekking in the Fanskaye range from Samarcande to Pendjikent Trekking from 2 Kan Tengri base camp Trekking 3 Mustaghata Mountaineering 2671 euros 4106 euros A special case: hunting Several agencies specialized in trophy hunting propose hunting campaigns in the Pamirs. 12 According to the information collected in the field among shooting lodges watchmen (lager), no visitors have come in 2003. Geopolitical conditions have kept visitors out of the activity as most tourists are Americans. Even in the case of a rise in demand, economic consequences for the region are almost zero. The Yak house of Murghab, which sells local products has been visited once or twice by hunters on the advises of hunting guide Otobek Bekmuratov. Marco Polo trophy The operators offering hunting tours in the Pamirs are the following: “ Mak Badakhshan ” Otobek Bekmouratov (tel. :333) Larry Rivers (USA) Telephone 1-800-393-2471 Fax 1-907-733-1070 Trophy hunt : info@trophyhunt.ru Alaska Hunting Safaris : RickHerscher@AOL.com Nothern Outdoors : info@northernoutdoors.com HORIZON HUNTING ADVENTURES , INC. :horizon@Adams.net Safari and expeditions : safari@safari.ru; http://www.safari.ru d UTS : incom@utsmow.ru Neman Travel” company suggest all kinds of tourist services, tel.: (+996 312) 66 34 01. Orion Trophy expeditions : orion@africamail.com THE ECOTOURISM PROJECT The form of tourism chosen must be compatible with the policy of preservation and protection engaged by the environment policy. It should fit in with the following requirements: - integrate into the social and cultural environment of the Pamirs; - favor the blossoming of the Pamiri culture; - also be accessible to Pamiri entrepreneurs and encourage local initiatives; - valorize production and services from the Pamirs; - correspond to the touristic demand expressed; - find an original positioning to differ from the regional offer. This type of tourism is called “ecotourism“ or “sustainable development tourism”. “Virgin “ecosystems such as those found in Murghab district become attractive poles for a new kind of consumers who flee from the crowded touristic places and who desperately look for untouched Nature, the exhilaration of discovery. This clientele, rather affluent and urban, is constantly growing. Its needs markedly differ from those of the basic touristic customers. The people are not very demanding on comfort standards, they appreciate direct contact with the natural milieu and the local population. They like to wander off the beaten track and favor staying in simple accommodation structures close to the sites of interest. 13 Specialized activities such as trekking, mountain sports should be available either in an exclusive way as a central theme or on a part time basis. POTENTIALS THE POTENTIAL MARKET Since the opening of the neighboring Central Asian countries like Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, touristic activities have been growing quite rapidly. These two countries are featured on touristic brochures. However, these countries fail to offer products exotic enough to sustain continuous growth. The attractive power of the Pamirs remains intact and unexploited besides the few hunters who have been attending the zone for years (a list of specialized operators is featured in the paragraph Hunting). Easier access to the sites and quicker obtention of visas should encourage tour operators to include tours to the Pamirs in their catalogue. A quick survey led among various French tour operators showed that several agencies are awaiting a decisive shift in the facilities provided to insert the destination in their catalogue. If 4 specialized agencies include the Pamirs in their catalogue, it is enough to produce a summer agenda of 16 trips concerning groups of 9 to 10 travelers, means a total of approximately 144 persons during the season. Moreover, the regional agencies concerned (especially Asiarando in Kyrgyzstan) indicate the interest of some of their customers for an extension of the visits toward the Pamirs starting from summer 2003. ACCESS LOGICS Any traveller who looks at a map of Tajikistan realizes that it is difficult to reach the Oriental Pamirs from Dushambe in the limits of a trip that cannot excess 15 to 25 days. The absence of accommodation structures and the rough aspect of Murghab village have not attracted visitors up to this day. Moreover, distances between the interesting sites of the region complicate enormously the task of making coherent touristic tours. Reduction of the visit to a unique zone would be disappointing given the diversity of the Pamirs’ landscapes: glacier zones (topped by the Lenin Peak, 7495m) and high peaks of the west, desertic spaces of the east and the great lakes (Karakul and Sarez) in the center and south-west. The most simple entry into the Pamir still remains through Kyrgyzstan: arrival in Bishkek, transfer by plane to Osh (south Kyrgyzstan) and travel by road south through high passes in the small and great Alaï, respectively at 3541m and 4280. A last pass at 4655m leads to Murghab’s basin. ACCOMODATION IN OSH (Kyrgyzstan) Osh offers uneven accommodation but only a few options are satisfactory for traveling visitors: NAME ADDRESS CAPACITY PRICES TEL Guesthouse ACTED 3 Uzgenskaia st. 6/10 persons 15$ (full board) -20282 -56837 FAX EMAIL No 14 Intourist SARA Guesthouse 57 ALAI Bailinova St. 13 rooms Single 35$ Double : 50$ 278a Kurmanjan 43 beds Dormitory 8/10 beds : Dakta 5$ 7 Doubles : 25$ E Breakfast. : ½$ Meal : 1$ 57 Suyumbaeva 11 beds Twin beds : 20$ Geological City Queen size: 40$ (2 pax) Meal on order: 5$ Breakfast included Lenin st. 6 double rooms Room:12$ “luxury” No breakfast. 75614 56326 No 22559 59129 No 56874 55118 Glandry@ ktnet.kg 57733 no No Remarks: Uneven offer. Intourist has a decent capacity. Convivial welcome of ACTED1 and 57 guesthouses, but limited number of beds. Hotel Alai: modest but located downtown. No luxury or charm hotels in the city. The city represents a transit point without curiosities except the bazar. Cross-border bus lines toward China (Kashgar) and Tajikistan. THE VISITS Several types of trips can be considered starting from Murghab: - transit through Murghab during a trip in the Pamirs, generally between Osh and Khorog- (expected stay in Murghab: 3 days) - extension of stay for tourists visiting Kyrgyzstan (ideal duration of stay in the Pamirs: 10 days) - Specific stay and tour in “star” (tours in jeep or mix jeep/trekking) with or without a stay in yurts (ideal duration for this type of tour: 10/12 days) - Trekking from 3 to 21 days according to the above-mentioned categories - Trekking and climbing, including the climbing of one or several peaks (expected duration of the trip “ home to home ” : 21 days). - Trips with specific themes (fauna and birds): much appreciated by the Anglo-Saxons, this kind of trip requires experts, but the services developed by the MEA should attract this type of organizers. - In the long run, it is possible to consider tours on camels labelled as “trekking”. No doubt that a clientele fond of deserts and camel riding exists, but part of it has already joined similar programmes toward Mongolia. On this basis, we have carefully examined the various services which the MEA will have to install. SITES AND TOURS LIKELY TO BE EXPLOITED Due to bad weather conditions and limited time, it was not possible to thoroughly explore the most promising zones. In order to complete our survey, it is necessary to refine the data, either by: - Leading further explorations in the field - Or relying on available data: o accumulated by Markus Hauser 1 ACTED guesthouses primarily host ACTED staff. 15 o archives of the mountain clubs dating from the Soviet alpine organization (especially the Kazbek Valiev fund in Almaty) o data available in various western alpine clubs It is important to keep in mind that high mountains, glaciers and highlands exert a powerful attraction far beyond the sole alpinists. The Pamirs are the core jewel of the region, and will be the destination favored by most travellers. CLIMBING The Fedchenko glacier • A considerable potential largely unexploited: Despite the existence of numerous spaces fairly accessible by track, administrative restrictions and/or political instability have never facilitated the coming of western trekkers in high mountains. If the access is made easier, if visas can be obtained rapidly and housing and transportation improved, no doubt that the zone can rapidly attract western mountaineers. • Resources at all levels of aptitudes The high altitude of the Pamir plateau allows easy access to remarkably high peaks without too sharp shifts in level, so that the area is accessible to all mountainers, from beginners to professionals. • Relative proximity of “virgin” summits 16 DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, INTERESTING SITES Osh Airport, reached from Bishkek It is necessary to make several stops on the long road leading to Murghab. The long distance incites travellers to avoid long halts, which is a pity, particularly regarding lake Kara-Kul. A project for accommodation impulsed by MEA is on the way. A night spent on the banks of the lake seems to be an attractive offer. However, risks of accidents due to altitude may lead to advice to reach Murghab promptly where altitude illnesses can be handled. Osh / Murghab : 420 Km (approx. 10 hours by car) Crossing Chigirchik pass (2406 m) Taldyk pass (3600m) Sary Tash customs (vallée de Kizil Sou) Kizil Art pass (4275m) Kara-Kul lake (3914m) Aikbatal pass (4655m) Khorog / Murghab : 305 Km Khorog reached from Dushanbe Several halts are possible. These halts are part of the ecotouristic offer. Naizatash pass (4137m) Yashikul Lake Tchechekti Bazar Dara (former mining town) Bulunkul (Shor Bulak ) Lakes : Lake Karakul Description: Lake Karakul (380 km2) is an emerald oasis in the immenseness of the high desert. It is the widest lake in the Pamirs, 280 meters maximal depth. Its surface seems to vary upon time. The lake was probably formed after a meteorite fall at the beginning of the quaternary era. It is a dead lake: no fish lives in its cold waters. An attempt to introduce Siberian fish was unsuccessful. The lake is a good place to halt for trekkers making for the Fedchenko glacier as well as mini-tours making for neighbouring mountains. Two hunting lodges have been built near the west bank of the lake. A track follows River Kokueebel down to the Bartang valley, near Lake Sarez. The Bartang Valley is reputed as one of the most spectacular landscapes in the Pamirs. A tour borrowing this route could become a grand classic of Pamir tourism. Lake Sarez Description: Lake Sarez was formed in 1911 following an earthquake which provoked the collapse of a mountain in the bed of Murghab River. A natural dam (Usoi Dam) has provoked a major water reserve at 3000m high: 61 km long, 500 m deep. The total volume of the water is estimated at 17 km^3. The lake collects the waters of the mountain range called Akademi Nauk. 17 Other interesting lakes for tourists: - Rang Kul - Bulung Kul - Jashyl Kul - Ak Zoo Thermal springs Thermal spring will have to be rehabilitated as they represent an attractive site that tourists appreciate very much. Cleanness of environments, quality of shelters and pleasant basins should be targeted. The most famous springs are the following: - Madian (near Murghabtown) - Jarty-Gumbers - Shaimak - Kyzil-Rabat - Bahkbur The spring lake Yashikul is located in the middle of the worksite of the dam. It could be interesting to contact the managers of the worksite to obtain help in rehabilitating the site (cleaning up, creation of a small building near the spring) as a compensation for the negative impacts on the local population. Minerals Several sites allow to organize tours focusing on geology, research for minerals , precious and half precious stones: - Senoston - Kukurt - Sasyk Scientific sites - The Shor Bulak astrological observatory should allow to offer to visitors a “night of stars”. The site itself is exceptional: astonishing view on the Kashgar chain. Biological station of Tchechekty HUMAN RESOURCES The team previously selected by Albert Longy in Murghab district consists of members of the MEA (Murghab Ecotourism Association). The team features the exact number of members necessary to start working with a small number of visitors or groups coming to the Pamirs during the summer 2004 season. However, it is important to keep a period of time free to train the workers of the project during a part of the season. The members’ list is given below: AIDERALI MAMISH AIZADA MAMAN 18 Ubaïdullah MAMADIEV TOURAT Three people at least are not association members and could play a role in the building of the core team: ELMIRA Murghab Tourat’s wife Local trainings Trainings Homestay homestays RAZZIA Murghab Local Trainings trainings Homestay homestays IBRAHIM Murghab Driver/ ACTED guide Global assessment of the group: Apart from Ubaidullah Mamadievh`, none of the members has ever had close contact with tourism. The only experienced members are the experts and the NGO members working in this field. All members show undeniable initial qualities: - obvious motivation - Integration in the local social fabric allowing to expect a good interface customers/managers of homestays and yurts; - Basic knowledge of the field, covering the set of local roads and tracks; - Understanding of the problem of adapting the local offer to visitors expectations through ACTED’s experience and running of the ACTED guesthouse. - Technical skills in each domain of specialty (mechanics for the drivers, cooking for homestays’staff and host families in yurts). TECHNICAL CAPACITIES TOURIST ACCOMODATION CAPACITY IN MURGHAB The ACTED guesthouse currently affords a dozen visitors. Aizada’s guesthouse will be able to provide another dozen beds shortly; Accommodation conditions are those of collective life. As soon as in 2004 an offer of 4 person bedrooms should be targeted by opening new guesthouses. TRANSPORTATION CAPACITIES 19 Transportation capacities are manifestly poor. Both Jeeps to be used in the project allow only 5 seats for tourists after deduction of the driver and the guide. As long as this capacity will not be increased, the potential of each trip will only be 5 customers. Therefore we suggest the purchase of two Wazik minibuses in order to increase transportation capacity to 25 visitors. FIELDS OF INTERVENTION LOCAL CONTEXT The motivation of the inhabitants of Murghab to develop tourism in the region is so far limited to a very restricted number of persons, as the rare visitors to Murghab have not yet generated a real curiosity towards that activity. In fact, the economic benefits have been currently small, and have so far only affected the structures set up by the NGO ACTED, on whose initiative the project has evolved. The implementation of the Eco-tourism project should thus be considered as a tool for setting up a structure and as a means of increasing resources. Participative approaches should thus open up to a wider population through constant information activities (meetings, movie and photo projections, conferences2). EVALUATION OF TRAINING NEEDS PRELIMINARY REMARKS The evaluation of training needs is based on the development scheme as suggested in this report. We have attempted to imagine a realistic progression in phases, starting with the existing offer towards an increasingly sophisticated eco-tourism product, adapted to the potentials identified. It is therefore reflecting existing human resources and future needs. The need for training concerns firstly all the members of the Association for Eco-tourism in Murghab. The overall training programmes are described below, trying as far as possible to use locally or regionally available competences. Certain human resources are identified, others still need to be explored. One table summarizes the training needs, the duration and the number of beneficiaries of those trainings. One also finds the requested competences of the trainers (local trainers, international experts) A calendar is suggested, covering four years (2003/2006) As it will be seen, some modules will consist in an elementary overview and general information, and can be opened to a larger number of voluntary participants. Others are truly training courses and imply an evaluation of skills acquired in view of an officially recognized professional qualification. THE TOTAL OF ACTORS 2 Presentations on the state of progress of the project, videos allowing a better understanding of ecotourism resources of the Pamir to be exploited, examples of best practice in the realm of eco-tourism (Nepal, Peru etc.) 20 Some modules can be jointly attended by various categories of trainees. A refining of the roadmap for interventions and experts, and a detailed planning by months and not by year is necessary. This is particularly true for 2004, which should be considered the key year for the qualification of the first trainees. This should happen in order to rapidly form a base team able to respond to the predictable augmentation of demand. The lists and contents of training modules do not claim to be exhaustive. They represent merely a frame which shall be revised and completed by the different experts intervening on the project. CONSCIOUSNESS-RAISING AND GENERAL INFORMATION ON ECOTOURISM - Expected resources Community approach Coherence of the projects Integration of eco-tourism into the local social and economic tissue development plan etc. ECOLOGICAL KNOWLEDGE - The environment of the Eastern Pamir Natural environment Human setting Wildlife Flora RECEPTION AND MANAGEMENT OF TRAVEL PLANS - Reception at the airport Air tickets booking and reservations Communication with visitors Understanding visitors expectations LANGUAGES - Basic English Basic French Setting up of a practical thesaurus/phrasebook Evaluation MANAGEMENT AND LOGISTICS - Purchase Stocks Bookkeeping Inventories Maintenance COMMUNICATION AND PROMOTION ON DIFFERENT LEVELS - Strategy of positioning Creation of an image and identity Relations with eco-tourism outlets (agencies, guides, Eco-tourism associations, hotels, regional network) 21 ISSUES TACKLED IN TRAININGS PER CATEGORY OF FIELD WORKERS: MANAGEMENT OF MEA - Administration Accounts Staff Management Law and legal responsibilities Planning of activities of MEA Organizational chart Sizing of technical offer Management of technical capacities Contracts for services Internal and external information Adaptability and resourcefulness Integration into the global Eco-tourism offer Knowledge of itineraries and products HOMESTAYS - Reception Cooking Hygiene Interior furnishing Adaptability Integration into the global Eco-tourism offer Knowledge of itineraries and products GUIDES AND TREKKING STAFF - Reception Communication, means and rules Cooking Hygiene First aid, rescue, evacuation Intervention plan in case of emergency Safety Progression in hazardous terrain Orientation Adaptation and reaction Integration into the global Ecotourism offer Notion of itineraries and products TEAMS FOR TRANSPORT BY ANIMAL - Steering of animals (horses, yaks) Maintenance of material Saddle and harness 22 - Adaptability Integration into the global Eco-tourism offer Notion of itineraries and products DRIVERS - - Transport and maintenance Driving of cars and common transport o Security rules o Rhythm and speed o Equipment o Mechanics Notion of itineraries and products PLANNING OF TRAININGS The suggested planning has yet to be confirmed, depending on regional agreements made between different partners of the UNESCO ecotourism programme (esp. Novinomad and KMF). The objective is to establish coherence between the existing and mastered offers and the evolution in phases as described in the paragraph " technical offer of MEA ". Trainers, speakers TRAINING PROGRAMMES Consciousness raising : MEA Actors Local seminary Ecotourism expert + Self-formation3 Management MEA Permanent ACTED + ecotourism management expert/ or association management expert guides (Phase 1) 2003 2004 2005 2006 10 days, 10 days, 10 days, 10 days, complete team complete team complete team complete team of MEA of MEA of MEA of MEA 8 days 4 persons 8 days 4 persons 15 days, 1 person: (Ubaidullah Mamadiev ) 2/3 persons Novinomad (Kyrgyzstan) Workshop in the field Training for trekking (Phase 2) KMF (Kazakhstan) 15 days, 2-3 persons 15 days, 2-3 persons 3 Self-formation : installing a training programme allowing local people involved to take responsibility for a part of the training of partners (spreading of lessons learned -acquired know how, self-assessment of progress in foreign languages, use of specialised pocket books). 23 Training mountaineering guides (Phase 3) KMF (Kazakhstan) 15 days + Mountaineering expert 15 days 1 month, 2 persons Training nature guide Environment/Ecotourism expert Local + workshop Training Homestays 1 month, 2 persons Ecotourism expert + self-formation + ACTED permanent worker Eco-tourism expert 8 days open 4 days seminar 4 days seminar seminar for for selected for selected volunteers homestays homestays 8 days seminar for selected homestays 4 days seminar for selected homestays 8 days seminar for selected homestays Training for trekking Eco-tourism staff expert Regional expert (KMF) 15 days KMF 4 persons Training for animal Regional experts “ steering ” (KMF guide?) Yaks, horses 15 days locally 4/8 persons 8 days 8 persons Camels Taming/ training, breeding4 Training drivers permanent ACTED + self-formation 4 5 days 4 persons Depending on the progress of the project “Caravan ”. 24 FINANCING TECHNICAL CAPACITIES AND MARKETING Besides the need to train the key role-players, it is important to consider investments on material (technical capacities) and promotional activities (marketing). The study on the legal status of the actors should also be undertaken and financed (ACTED and MEA). o Transport of tourists (suitable vehicles: 2 wazik minibuses) o Sanitation installations (toilets and showers in homestays and yurts) o Health equipment (treatment for Acute Altitude Sickness in Murghab) o Trekking equipment (tents, cooking, sleeping kits, equipment for animals/saddles etc) o Reception office (management, logistical warehouse) o Promotion o Means of communication (internet, telephone, fax) Details will be given in the preliminary tables (Programming and Investments at the end of the report) OPERATIONALIZING THE RECEPTION IN MURGHAB TOWN Reception office and information centre of the Association for Ecotourism in Murghab (MEA) Visitors arriving to Murghab will be most probably taken aback by the inhospitable aspect of this high altitude town. The somehow anarchic urbanisation as well as the lack of landmarks makes it necessary to carefully choose the emplacement for the reception office: it should be located in a strategic setting, it should be easy to find and it should be attractive, offering a friendly appearance: therefore, the outer walls should be cleaned, the house rehabilitated and repainted, and the entrance should display a sign with the logo of the association. During the initial phase, a permanent staffing of this venue will not be affordable, given that unscheduled visitors (individual tourists) will not be many during the first two years of activity. As this location is supposed to become the seat of ecotourism activities for Murghab, we suggest an interior space of two or three rooms: - Reception room for visitors o Equipment: Table Seats Information board and price list for services Wall map displaying Murghab district Photos and posters Brochures Information material concerning accommodation in homestays and yurts - Office for management and meetings of actors o Equipment: Table Seats Cupboard for documents Telephone/fax 25 - Computer Whiteboards for planning and various informations Logistics room and small materials (to be locked) o Equipement : Shelves Inventory board Valuable material (short wave radios, collective equipments of guides and drivers) Accomodation in guesthouses Many Murghabi houses are easy to transform into guesthouses/homestays : spacious rooms, summer verandas with friendly lighting, usually offering comfortable sleeping space. Several house owners seem to be ready to open their houses to receive tourists. The Association for Ecotourism has selected two of them. Our visit allowed to assess the feasibility of accomodation in these houses and the level of rehabilitation necessary to have them up to standard. A minimum standard of comfort is required, especially as far as hygiene is concerned: toilets, showers, water treatment. The quality of houses visited is heterogeneous and they require different types of interventions. ACTED Guesthouse The guesthouse is operational. It is located in the centre of Murgab, and provides examplary comfort and hygiene. Rooms can fit up to 12 visitors. Rehabilitation work to be previewed: - Whitewashing of the entrance opening to the main road - Putting up the Eco tourism sign - Visibility The house of Aizada Kyrgyz style house in the upper parts of Murghab, with a veranda facing the range of Mustagh Ata, spacious rooms with pleasant decorations. Capacity for 12 people in two collective dormitories (6 each) Rehabilitation work to be foreseen: - Repainting the facade - Upgrading the toilets o seat o door and lock o coating of the facade o lighting - Construction of a shower facility o plan for tiling and duckboards o The fire should be fed from the outside, according to the model developed for the ACTED guesthouse. - Interior equipment 26 Katadyn filter for drinking water in the kitchen or the corridor. A sink (Pykomoùhuk) to be installed in the corridor at the entrance. Facilities for storage (boxes that can be piled up) for clients’ use in the rooms. Information board detailing tariffs and containing recommandations and messages o Guest-book Putting up the Eco tourism sign Visibility o o o o - The house of Ayemgul Tadjik style house in the centre of Murghab, enclosed by walls opening onto an inner yard. Not very attractive and difficult to adapt to foreign visitors’ expectations (neglected environment, skeleton of a car on bricks, closed space) Two living rooms, quite comfortable, but very dark. Capacity on two rooms for 12 people. Rehabilitation work to be previewed: - Upgrading of shower o duckboard o coating walls o cleaning/sanding of shelves o door - Toilets/WC o Cleaning of the corridor o Door o Seat o Excavation of deeper pit o Aeration o Lighting o Coating of the walls In our opinion, this house is not quite adapted to the reception of tourists. Investments for an appropriate rehabilitation would be too heavy, without any guaranteed acceptable outcome. We rather suggest choosing houses in upper Murghab, offering at the same time quietness and a good view on the Pamirs and avoiding the “trap” feeling of a closed space. SIGNALISATION A discrete signalisation will be set up to help visitors to get oriented on the various services obtainable through the Association (reception office, homestays etc). These signboards should display the logo of the association (see chapter "logo"). A simple schematic plan of the town (displaying the logo) should be quickly prepared and made available at the reception office. It can also be and sent to the various editors of tourist guidebooks representing the Pamirs. The selected homestays will also be recognizable thanks to the logo displayed on the façade or the entrance. 27 RECEPTION IN YURTS The hospitality offered traditionally in the yurts scattered all over the region is a major strong point for ecotourism development. Yet, possible negative effects (loss of privacy, evolution from a traditional social obligation to a mere economical transaction, influence on children's behaviour) can be previewed and have to be taken into serious consideration. It is suggested that the Association of Ecotourism in Murghab edits accommodation vouchers which would avoid making monetary transactions at the moment of the passage of tourists. These vouchers would equal the value for overnight stays and catering as fixed annually by the general assembly of the association. The hygiene problems can be resolved by installing removable toilets that will be part of the camping equipment (see following page for different types of removable toilets) The visitors will have to be sensitized to the impact they are likely to have on the environment. o Ecotourism charter for the Pamir o Information material obtainable at the office of the association, to be handed out with the vouchers (suggestions for appropriate behaviour, rules of Kyrgyz hospitality, presents etc.) o Warnings and signs in the office o Additional information by the accompanying guides Toilets in the vicinity of yurts : In order to alter comfort for visitors, we suggest solutions commonly used in countries where comparable problems concerning toilets arise. The suggested models can easily be produced locally. Toilet kits: - tent: “Safety Central ” (USA) : 39,99 US$ - Seat and plastic bag: “Safety Central” (USA) : 16,95 US$ 28 125 US$ 33,45 US$ http://www.thethrone.com/commercial/index.html 16,95 US$ 39,99 US$ http://www.safetycentral.com/sanitation1.html HANDICRAFT The ACTED project has generated and strengthened the local production of handicraft of a satisfactory quality. The “Yak House” is a structure regrouping home producers, and the 29 majority is destined to export. The development of Eco-tourism should allow the development of additional options: - Exhibition and use of local handicrafts production in the different homestays in Murghab. - Direct sales (in the homestays) or indirect sales (in the Yak house) to visitors. TREVELLERS HEALTH One of the health risks to be previewed in Murghab is the Acute Altitude Sickness (AAS). This risk calls for: - An acclimatization stopover for travellers coming from Osh (altitude adaptation step) - The purchase and management of one or two light hyperbaric chambers. Prices for those hyperbaric chambers can be found in the annex “ altitude diseases ” These chambers can be used without medical environment and are very easy to handle. They allow to simulate an artificial descent from altitude and to delay an evacuation towards a lower location (Osh) or even to abolish the symptoms. The presence of two such devices would allow to keep one with the logistics material and to rent out the other one for groups planning to climb to higher altitudes. Two solutions are proposed for the management of the material: - The devices are kept and managed by the reception office of the Association - The devices are handed to the Murghab hospital for management and use5. VISA OBTENTION Visa services in Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) An embassy with a representing consul has opened in Bishkek in October 2002. It is now possible to obtain visas issued in Bishkek. Adress: Embassy of the Republic of Tajikistan Consul: Sharifkhon K. KALANDAROV 17/1, Koenkozova st. Bishkek, 720017 Kyrgyz Republic Tél/ fax : +996 (312) 22-00-94 Tél : +996 (312) 66-41-43 E-mail : tojsaforat@exnet.kg Procedure Mr Kalandarov suggests contacting a tourism centre in Khorog to negotiate with them a set service of sending by fax invitation letters that remain necessary. This invitation letter must specify that the visa will be retrieved in Bishkek. 5 It appears that Murgabis themselves are potentially likely to suffer from the same symptoms when they have been staying at low altitude for a long period. Their adaptation to altitude disappears then quite quickly. Therefore it would be preferable to install the material in the hospital so that villagers could also benefit from it. 30 In order to make this procedure operational for the next season, it is recommended to Ubaidullah Mamadiev to meet as soon as possible with Mr Mamadrizohonov Akbar of the State University of Khorog, head of the faculty of ecological agriculture and president of the tourism association “tourism on the roof of the world”. Phone: 22 00 94 Phone/fax: 66 41 43 Costs of visa The price for tourist visa has become reasonable and should no longer be an obstacle to visit the Pamirs: 1 week visa: 40 US$ 2 week visa: 50 US$ 1 month visa: 60 US$ In addition we have been informed that a Tajik embassy has opened in Brussels this year, and that there is a representation in Berlin and in Vienna. Address in Germany: Botschaft der Republik Tajikistan Otto Suhr Allee 84 10585 Berlin phone: 030-34 79 300 www.botschaft-tadschikistan.de PRICELIST FOR MEA SERVICES o The prices for services has been fixed by MEA for 2003: 44,4 COM = 1 US$ Service Price in US$ Homestay : Night and breakfast 6 Jeep per 100 km (without petrol) 12 Yurt : Night and breakfast 5 Meals in Yurt 5 Salary guide per day 5 Salary for special guide (Ubaidullah Mamadiev) 10 Driver per day 5 Horse per hour 1 Horse per day 5 Laundry 1 Private shower (banya) 1 Fuel per liter 0,5 Meals in homestay 5 Transfer by car Osh – Murghab : 420 km, consumption Wazik 22l/100km = 92l. Price for petrol: 17com/Liter = 1754 com or 36 US$ 31 Total cost overnight stay and 3 meals 6$ + 5$ = 11$ Total cost guide and driver per day : 15$ Recoup of costs for vehicle: 1$/km MARKETING STOPOVERS IN BISHKEK AND IN PARIS In order to consolidate the network and the dissemination of the eco-tourism products of Murghab, different contacts can be used by both individuals and group travellers: 1. C.A.T.I.A. (Central Asia Tourism Industry Association) network In Bishkek : “ La Maison du Voyageur ” Contacts : - Natacha MEHL: Représentant commercial 122 Moskovskai – Bishkek – Kirgizstan Tél 00996312 666330 Email : kyrgysdos@elcat.kg www.frcati.da.ru In Paris : Mr Ary Toledano Jancarthier Voyages 88 bd Voltaire – 75011 Paris Tél.: 01 49 23 19 72 Port : 06 19 26 10 19 Email : ary@jancarthier.fr 2. Agencies operating from Bishkek towards the Pamirs: - Asia Tours Kirghiz Concept Turan Asia Muza 3. Receptive agencies operating from Almaty: - KanTengri 4. Operators likely to get into direct contact with the local offer: - Mountain guides and their associations - Agencies and associations specialized in trekking and adventure travels Calendar for promotional operations 32 ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS The touristic development calling for integrated infrastructures and particular structures of protection and valorisation (zones of wildlife conservation/protection, protected cultural sites) is associated with other aspects of development and nature preservation: water and energy management, waste management, improving of roads ; improvement and embellishment of dwellings, draining and sanitation system etc... Architecture and landscape Murghab deserves to be valorized by an architectural effort on its housing accommodations. Integrated architecture and the use of traditional, local materials have become a norm in ecotouristic accommodation. The “urban” architecture will have to be considered: landscaping efforts on the “ squares ”, improvement of the major constructions, improvement of the roads, etc. Comfort Clients do not expect luxurious accommodations. The rooms will be simple and clean, equipped with basic facilities (shower - sink - toilets on concrete paving, furniture for luggage, seats, a table). Lighting can be provided by petrol or gas lamps, the shower can be done with a bucket and a pan: all that is part of the setting, as long as it is clean and that little details making life easier are ensured. Natural aeration is sufficient in an open and generous environment. Energy If the energy source is a generator, it must be installed far enough from the dwellings so that the noise of the engine does not reach the rooms. Renewable energy sources are the best solution : solar, aeolic in some locations. In any case, different energies use will be favored, to allow the greatest possible autonomy - and for economical reasons. Waste A system of management and waste treatment needs to be installed and managed. The aridity of the high altitude prevents human waste to decompose rapidly. Burying will have to be looked after, in order to keep the surroundings of the yurts clean and sane. Water The quality of water will have to be monitored (katadyn filters in the homestays and in the camp equipment) and its usage in town will have to be reasonable (appeal to limit the usage of water in bath and toilets). 33 An environmental Charter A preliminary budget should precise the total of luxury installations for all new implantations, at the same time assuring the maximum environmental protection (landscape – water – energy – sanitation). A charter will be proposed in order to both engage the local communities to respect some essential points and to raise awareness among tourists to respect the zone they visit. It should contain the following points: For the communities - Hygiene and cleanliness, - Waste management - Water management - Architectural upgrading (support can be offered) - Wildlife management - etc. For the tourists - Hygiene and cleanliness, - Waste management - Water management - Adapt to the local conduct (esp. dress code), quietness and discretion. - No hunting - etc. The “contract” between the populations and the tourists, both beneficiaries, will thus be reciprocal. PROMOTIONAL TOOLS DESIGN AND DIFFUSION OF A PRECISE AND ORIGINAL IMAGE Touristic development will be possible through a specific approach appealing to the potential visitors: We thus have to seek the specific factors that will have to be put forward: •Pamir : “ The Higher Silk Road ” •the “ Inaccessible ” castle •Land of discoveries - The oriental Pamir, extreme corner of Tajikistan before entering China, The myth of the Pamir The Silk Road Major geological knot Mountain and high altitude desert region of exceptional beauty Intensive Yak breeding Last breeding place (with the Wakhan) of the Bactrian camel 34 The major handicaps of the region shall nevertheless not be omitted: - Extreme isolation and difficult access` - Immensity of the zone - Relative distance between the various points of interest - Weak infrastructure for reception - Weak framing of reception - Little knowledge of inhabitants concerning their touristic sites. Some of those handicaps can also be interpreted as potential assets to attract certain categories of travellers : those who look for the “ unknown ” ; identification to a category of “ pioneers on new territory ”.; researchers; friends of cultural situations and authentic encounters not polluted by the effects of mass tourism. LOGOS During the mission, a graphic designer worked on the creation of two complementary logos: - The first logo will allow to identify PHIP projects - The second is destined to Eco-tourism project activities in the East Pamir. The two proposed logos seem satisfying. They feature similar figures to recall the identity and vicinity of the projects (blue mountains, similar shape and design) and yet have distinctions in the foreground (a yak for PHIP, recalling the activities to consolidate local economy ; a bactrian camel for the eco-tourism, evoking the journey, the Silk Road, nomadism and the anticipation for the “caravan” project.) Size of prints and usage - Stickers for cars: 30x30cm - Stickers for guesthouses: 12x12cm - Headers for letters and envelopes, electronic signature - Edited documents (maps, brochures, sign posts) - Signaling in the field. Costs : - Graphic sample: 500 euros - Printing of stickers 30x30 - 100 pieces : 100$ - Printing of stickers 12x12 – 300 pieces : 150$ TOURIST MAP The cartography of the Pamirs has been done by the Cartographic Department of the Soviet Union. They are of large scale, but reasonably usable for research and navigation for trekking. Yet, those maps are not quote adapted to touristic use: 35 - They are edited in Russian They do not show places or areas of particular touristic interest or resources. Markus Hauser, partner of the project, is currently working on the realisation of such a map. As is a long-term work, we should envision a short-term project to design a schematic map for the use of future visitors. This schematic tourist map should indicate: - The major roads to remarkable sites - Towns, villages and Jailoos in condition to receive visitors – specific pictograms according to the legend. - Archeological sites – specific pictograms according to the legend. - Exceptional natural sites (main peaks and mountain ranges, hot springs etc) – specific pictograms according to the legend. - Sites of particular interest (observatory, museum, centre for handicraft production, camel farm) - specific pictograms according to the legend. - Historical sites (forteresses, castles, art pieces) – specific pictograms according to the legend. - Rivers and lakes; - Places of supply (fuel, catering) - specific pictograms according to the legend. - Existing touristic infrastructures (homestays, reception office of the ecotourism association etc.) – specific pictograms according to the legend. Some preparatory work has been accomplished by the Association for Eco-tourism in Murghab (Ubaidullah Mamadiev), the outcome of which is displayed below. Of course, this document still lacks refinement and accuracy. The area the document intends to cover is probably too vast. We suggest to choose the limits of Murghab district as the area to be mapped. Roads linking major urban settlements are to be depicted on the bottom of the sheet. Other sources remain to be evaluated and exploited (schematic maps done by mounteneering associations (EWP – the document is reproduced below-, etc.) The document can easily be completed by a larger situation map in an additional window on the side. The document should also display various useful contacts (phone numbers, internet addresses), as well as a reference to the ecotourism map of the Pamir. The schematic map is working document in motion that needs to be updated in the coming years, as well as a tool to promote the region. The document can be sold on the spot and exported, e.g. to specialised shops (like Astrolabe or Vieux Campeur in France), to tour operators of the region (Kyrgyzstan), travel bookshops, hotels, university libraries specialised on the region etc. The documentation supporting the realisation of the project should in priority remain with the principal author of the document (Marcus Hauser), but should also be available as a database to the MEA. As it represents a support to eco-tourism development in the Pamir, the tourist map should be a collective achievement (local actors associated to the project, the cartographer – Markus Hauser – experts, specialised travellers, maybe the University of Khorog), supported and financed by donors, and whose expected benefits should directly go to the profit of MEA, following a scheme of fair trade. The first maps should be ready in 2004. 36 A meeting in Switzerland between Markus Hauser, the author of this report and Albert Longy should take place in July 2003. It is part of the current mission of the eco-tourism expert. A more detailed progress assessment will be made during that encounter. Map of exceptional sites (author: Ubaidullah Mamadiev – MEA) Expedition scheme of the British association EWP CREATION OF ECOTOURISM PRODUCTS Eco-tourism products at the beginning of summer 2003 we will have to consider the following factors: - Technical capacities - Skill level of actors - Level of field knowledge We have therefore suggested three phases in the overall offer, corresponding to a progressive improvement of the parameters. Various visiting programmes are proposed in the annex. PHASE 1 Product: discovery tour “in star” Visits and transportation by car Approx. one or half day treks Overnight stays in Murghab and in Yurts Duration of circuits: - For local demand: on a daily basis, two to three days - For a demand through agencies or regional trips: 10 to 12 days PHASE 2 During an initial period: Trekking and hiking for 2 to 3 days integrated into the phase 1 offer - Transfer by car from Osh (return trip) - Accomodation in homestays - Overnight stays in yurts - Camping in tents After the initial period: Trekking in middle mountains (without entering glacier terrain, except if a professional mountain guide accompanies the clients) - Camping in tents - Overnight stays in yurts when passing by a Jailo - Usage of pack animals as porters In a third extention: Trekking and penetration of glacier milieu. 37 PHASE 3 The products of phase 3 will be studied later on, depending on the development relations at borders and of security issues. THE “ CARAVAN ” PROJECT The Bactrian camel has been for long part of the Pamir myth. It is tied to the ancient history of the Silk Road and the identification of Central Asia as a land of nomads. The Soviet system, sharing little love for nomadic life nearly let the breeding disappear. The Bactrian camel has become a rare animal, scarcely used by the Murghab people. We evaluated the number of heads to around twenty, with several owners of only one animal. Resurgence of greater herds can only be achieved by a ranching programme and a revalorisation of the animal. All owners pointed out the exceptional qualities of the camels: - Exceptional adaptation to the harshest climatic conditions - Adaptation to the poorest pastures, thus not in competition with yaks for grazing - Capacity to carry approximately 400 kg - Capacity to cover 60 km per day - Only means of access to high altitude pastures inaccessible for vehicles The “ caravan ” project aims at: o Revalorisation of the camel and its multiple uses for the Pamir people o Transportation of men and luggage o Utility of leather and wool for local handicraft production o Creation of professional opportunities (training, guiding/driving, trade) o Consolidation of the number of heads by providing favourable conditions for reproduction The value of camels for an ecotouristic development seems obvious enough. The development of activities around camel hiking could give the region a unique asset, allowing in mid term the creation of a high ranking competitive offer. Lovers of Saharian camel tours would find in the Pamirs a fascinating alternative. This touristic product could in consequence be exported regionally (notably into the Wakhan). The price for a camel varies around 400 US$. It would thus be possible to start tourism activities with three couples, calling for an initial investment of 2400 $. This experience could receive attention and attract financial support from international organizations fighting for the protection of Nature. We suggest that this project be launched in Murghab. This preliminary study on feasability needs to be completed by a detailed assessment of the breeding conditions, hygienic standards and breeding rates. This project would also help to establish links of regional cooperation by exchanging skills and knowledge on various issues such as breeding, training and transport. For more information, see the following website : http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2002/11/1126_021205_cameltrek.html 38 PROGRAMMATION (TABLE) 1 year PHASE 1 (Homestays, yurts and nontechnical products) 3 to 5 years 10 years • •Training of field workers (in coordination with regional leaders) •Field reconnaissance in the field •Facilitation of visa obtention for Gorno-Badarkhan in Bishkek (embassy) Altering the transport capacities for visitors •Promotion and commercialisation of “ phase 1 ” products •Strengthening of the Association for Ecotourism in Murghab •Creating a “ Pamir ecotourism ” label and of a communication plan •Attending conferences on development and nature preservation in Khorog PHASE 2 Technical Ecotourism Products Training for specialised techniques (trekking, walking in “ middle ” mountains) •Security plans for visitors • •Promotion and commercialisation of products “ phase 2 ” •Going online with the offer “ ACTED/UNESCO ” •Exchange with organs of the National Park (on valorisation, training, information, research) •Valorisation of the overall offer (homestays, thermal, yurts, signalisation, etc.) •Valorisation of the offer “ cultural heritage ” •Installation of the “ Caravan ” project (camels) PHASE 3 Regionalisation, products specifying status of protection • Promotion and commercialisation of “ phase 3 ” products : “ Pamir/Karakoram ” (Tadjikistan/China) and “ Caravan ” •Animal reserve (observation zones for Marco Polos) • Integration of the East Pamir in the Man and Biosphere programme (Programme MAB/UNESCO) and convention RAMSAR of lake Karakul INVESTMENT PLAN The proposed estimations are not endorsed and should be determined with actors in the field having a better view of local prices (Albert Longy) during June 2003. In addition, the proposed interventions on regional level (Novinomad, KMF) have not yet been subject of financial arrangement. We stand for now on a simple principle agreement. The eco-tourism workshop which will take place in Pakistan in May should allow to clarify these issues. 2004 PHASE 1 • (Homestays, yurts and non technical products) • Training of key actors (in coordination with regional actors) International expert 20 days.x 180$ Travel expenses Workshop in location – 1 pers (Novinomad) Rehabilitation Material Expert 15 days. x 180$ Travel (mixed with training) • Facilitation of visa obtention for GornoTravel to Khorog Badarkhan in Bishkek (embassy) (Ubaidullah) Altering the transport capacities for visitors Purchase of 2 vehicles for clients • Promotion and commercialization of Travel within Europe, 1 “ phase 1 ” products expert Investments in homestays (2) Investments in the Ecotourism office •Accomplish field reconnaissance Cartographic work for touristic use Travel to Switzerland, twice Estimations US$ 3500 1700 300 500 500 2700 60 11000 500 800 • Consolidation of the association for Erik (ACTED) NC ecotourism in Murghab • Creation of a “ Pamir ecotourism ” label and of a communication plan 500 250 Concept and realisation Printing UNESCO - ACTED 46 • Participation at conferences on development and nature conservation in Khorog. Consolidation of status for actors in Ecotourism Legal capacities for commercialization Travels (Ubaidullah, Erik) Honoraries Specialized Lawyer Travel expert TOTAL : 120 ( ?) 1,000 24,030 UNESCO - ACTED 47 2005 – 2008 PHASE 2 Estimations for 2005 US$ Ecotourism Expert 15 days 2,700 1,700 Training 1,200 KMF 3 persons 420 Travel Kazak. Investments in homestays Rehabilitation 500 Creation of promotional material Design 500 Printing Distribution Cartography Design To be fixed in Printing July, 2003 Distribution • Security plan for visitors Trip to 400 Dushanbe Extention trip as follow-up Expert 900 ecotourism 5 days. • Promotion and Trips in 350 commercialization of products Europe “ phase 2 ” (tourist fares) Representation 720 Security material 2 hyperbaric chambers 2,500 2 Oxygen b. 700 + 2 masks Trekking 3,000 material • Going online with the offer Site web 500 “ ACTED/UNESCO ” designing Follow-up Phase 1 + Technical ecotourism products Follow-up of operations, support to management, workshop for readjustment Training for specialized techniques (trekking, “ middle ” mountains) • Exchange with organs of the National Park (valorization, training, information, research) • Valorization of the overall offer (homestays, thermal, yurts, signalization, etc.) • Valorization of the offer “ cultural heritage ” • Installation of the “ caravan ” project (camels) Meetings NC Rehabilitation Purchase of material, toilets Printing of signboards Signalization Protection 1,000 Purchase of 6 camels, training et div. 2,400 TOTAL : 13,970 Study on opportunities to reopen Murghab airfield 500 1,000 NC UNESCO - ACTED 48 PROFITABILITY OF VEHICLES The analysis of the vehicles’ profitability is not an easy task: it depends on the demand, i.e. how many clients will use car and pay for transport, thus how often they are used. We based our calculations on a minimum of 12 client trips per season. Each trip of 12 days represents about 1500 km. A well maintained Wazik can drive 250 000 km, considering the state of roads. The price for a new Wazik varies around 5500 $. Thus each trip would amount to 90$ for an amortization over 5 years, to add to the total costs of an “Osh to Osh” package. These 90 $ are to be divided between the number of paying clients. It is of course possible to envision an additional use of the vehicles: regional transport for inhabitants, specific requests). This would allow reducing amortization costs per km. We shall not forget to insure passengers against accidents. LOGICAL FRAME The overall project’s logical frame is presented on the following pages: UNESCO - ACTED 49 PROJECT FOR DEVELOPEMENT OF ECOTOURISM IN THE MURGHAB REGION Logic of intervention LOGICAL FRAME (1/2) Objectively verifiable indicators Verification sources Assumptions and risks Overall objectives The regional development contributes to the Purchasing power, increase of exchanges socio-economic well being of the population. Health Specific objectives The project to develop ecotourism in the Indirect and direct revenues from ecotourism region contributes to regional development. Management Expected results 1. Structure based on social and cooperational conduct is stable and operational 2. Institutional capacities allowing planning and framing 3. Quality performance in reception, accommodation, food and guiding 4. Information and commercialization of the ecotourist product is adapted to the market 5. Exceptional sites are put into value 6. The socio-cultural heritage is redynamised 7. Ecotourism contributes directly to the protection of natural resources 1. Absence of conflicts, little turnover of actors National census; Regional economic statistics (surveys); Health and sanitation survey Regional economic statistics (survey); Evaluation of the project; Yearly financial report of associations and concessions 1. PV d’AG asso MEA 2. Follow-up by institutions 2. Evaluation of programmes 3. Clients satisfaction 3. 4. Client satisfaction 4. PV reception, frequencies, surveys Surveys on client satisfaction 5. 6. 7. Programme of activities Exhibitions, commercialization of local products Decrease of hunting on big game. 8. The legal frame of a status as association and the modalities for management of ecotourism are implemented 9. Basic infrastructures are functional 8. Decret of implementation, ecotourism and environment 10. Agriculture and livestock by-products contribute to the consumption of the population, the catering to tourists and to the commercialization beyond the region through diversification 11. The dynamics of the project lead to a multi-sector approach to development based on territorial planning and management on regional level 12. Ressources are protected and valorised 5. 6. 7. 8. Investment plan, PV of received works, number of vehicle breakdowns 9. 10. Increase of commercialisation 10. 9. Fequency of visit Yak House sales book. Surveys Political and institutional instability Disengagement of donor agencies Political and institutional instability Disengagement of donor agencies Given data base (including cartographic) Converging interests of actors on regional level Disponibility of actors (continuity over time) Lega land social acceptance of concessions for certain services (accomodation, catering, transport, activities etc.) Institutional support for the project (official institutions and donors) Management of National Park Quality of roads/access Decret of implementation tourism and environnement Survey, log books, reports Agro-economic surveys, project evaluation, association report, log book on purchase 11. Politics of territorial planning and management 11. Laws and decrets of implementation, UNESCO - ACTED 50 PROJECT FOR DEVELOPMENT OF ECOTOURISM IN THE MURGHAB REGION LOGICAL FRAME (2/2) Planned activities Logic of intervention Obejectively veryfiable indicators Sources of verification Assumptions and risks Feasibility: Conception of the ecotourism product: sub- regional zones, identification of potentials, sensitivities and constraints, reception and itineraries Reorganization and (conditional) strengthening of associated structures Feasibility: Field mission, 2003 Mission report, May 2003 Feasibility: Total cost of intervention of feasibility: Conditions for feasibility: Acceptance of the project by institutions Acceptance of the preliminary programme Letter of agreement between ACTED and EQUATERRE Associations Implementation: Activity programmation for 3,5,10 years Accompanying measures: Implementation: Legal status Institutional strengthening Infrastructures for reception, accommodation and catering, Contracts of support and engagement of donors reception centre Selection of persons and training Control Concept for modes of commercialisation Information and communication Protection of exceptional sites, Archeological research valorisation of sociocultural heritage. Identification and activities for protection of sensitive zones Valorisation of natural potentials Reduction of environmental constraints Implementation: Engaged investment budgets Conditions for implementation: Funding Accompanying measures : MEA and ACTED have attained a legal Conditions for accompanying measures: status for their ecotourism activities Fullfilling of responsabilities The structure exists and functions Manageable costs Accompanying measures: Security Professionnel status Management of renewable ressources : conservation and commercialisation of products, water, energy UNESCO - ACTED 51 Institutional strengthening Replicability of the product favouring touristic development in Central Asia Central Asian Network UNESCO - ACTED 52 CONCLUSION The eco-tourism reconnaissance mission has demonstrated the still untapped touristic potential of the region. Yet, the local population has a long way to go, and a regular follow-up seems necessary to allow a proper guidance of the project. The author of this paper insists on his motivation to participate in the ongoing project. We have emphasized the fragility of a process of integration of the local population into a sector largely dominated by international investors who do not necessarily take into account the population. The steady rise of tourism oriented toward Nature nurtures the hope that, in regions with limited resources, "ecotourism" would provide an interesting venue for development, well adapted to cross sector approaches. The legal status of the various actors involved needs to be further discussed and settled. The Association for Eco-tourism in Murghab has to define its position within the economical and legal context of Tajikistan; the NGO ACTED has to put its weight on its status as a development agency, and choose the most adapted modes of functioning if its existing network is to play a role in the regional development of eco-tourism. ACTED also needs to provide itself with instruments and professional resources if this activity is carried to a larger scale and to export it beyond the limits of Murghab district. This project is an important motor for a development of interregional relations. These should from now on be enforced, both in regards of personal circulation as well as in the field of cultural and technical exchange that they will not miss to generate. UNESCO - ACTED 53 ANNEXES UNESCO - ACTED 54 1. SUMMARIZED BIBLIOGRAPHY Consulted titles: TITLE 1. Asie Centrale COLLECTION Petit Futé 2. Central Asia: A Travel Lonely Planet Survival Kit 3. Le voyage en Asie Bouquins Centrale et au Tibet 4. Ecotourism in the Pamir region: problems and perspectives. 5. Tourism, development and the environment. 6. Central Asia: The Practical Handbook 7. Trekking in Russia and Central Asia: A Traveller's Guide 8. Tajik-English/EnglishTajik Dictionary and Phrasebook 9. Pamir-Trans Altai Map Mountains Map and Guide: Central Asia/Tajikistan 10. Eastern Approaches AUTHOR(S) Dominique AUZIAS Jean Paul LABOURDETTE Andrew Humphreys Michel JAN EDITOR AND ADDRESS Nouvelles Editions de l’Université www.petitfute.com Robert Laffont AKNAZAROV, O.; DADABAEV, I.; MELNICHKOV, D SOUTHGATE, C.; Sharpley, R.; Telfer, D. J. SHARPLEY, R. London Giles WHITTELL Cadogan Books Frith MAIER Cordee Joseph CONROY Hippocrene Books Robin COLLOMB West Col Fitzroy MACLEAN Penguin Consulted websites http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/central_asia/tajikistan/ http://www.traveltajikistan.com/gettingthere/tajikair.html http://search.asiaco.com/Tajikistan/ http://www.unesco.org/webworld/asicent/taj.htm http://www.sesrtcic.org/members/taj/tajhome.shtml http://www.wtgonline.com/data/tjk/tjk.asp UNESCO - ACTED 55 http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/tajikistan.html http://reenic.utexas.edu/reenic/countries/tadjikistan.html http://www.traveltajikistan.com/yellowpages/ http://www.eurasianet.org/resource/tajikistan/ UNESCO - ACTED 56 2. LIST OF PERSONS MET NAME ADDRESS STATUS ROLE LONGY Albert France Acted Consultant murghab@acted.automail.com LONGY Nathalie France Acted Consultant murghab@acted.automail. DOURNOVO Osh Acted Flying coordinator nathalie.dournovo@acted. AKAEV Jomart Osh Acted BLANC Florentin Dushanbe Acted REMARKS EMAIL Nathalie Speaks french Regional osh@acted.org florentin.blanc@acted.org Coordinator AIDERALI Murghab Murghab@acted.automail. MAMISH Murghab Murghab@acted.automail. AIZADA Murghab Murghab@acted.automail. MAMAN Murghab Murghab@acted.automail. UBAIDULLAH Murghab Murghab@acted.automail. TOURAT Murghab Murghab@acted.automail. ELMIRA Murghab MAMADIEV Wife of Tourat Training Murghab@acted.automail. Homestay RAZZIA IBRAHIM Murghab Murghab Cook in Training Murghab@acted.automail. Murghab GH Homestay Driver/Logistics Driver/guide Murghab@acted.automail. Possible relay novinomad@elcat.kg ACTED GVASSALIA Dushanbe Acted Tajikistan Bishkek Novinomad Tatiana Sergei Administratrice UNESCO - ACTED 57 for visitors Bishkek GUILLERM Rotfont Kyrgyz Concept Possible relay AsiaRando Potential for visitors Gérard et clients Dominique providers MARET Samuel POPOV Viktor Bishkek Almaty akc@mail.elcat.kg Ultimate Possible relay for Adventure visitors Kazakhstan Mountaineering asiarand@mail.kg Guide changgulu@hotmail.com Geographic Specialist of ingeo@mail.kz ressources the Pamirs Foundation Erik ANNEXE 3. COMMON ALTITUDE ILLNESSES The average altitude of the Pamirs exposes visitors to the risk of altitude illnesses. Consequently it seems advisable to equip the Murghab reception centre with basic material to be able to treat it. Description of the Common Altitude Illnesses As a consequence of hypoxia, altitude illnesses can appear at an altitude of 3000 m and beyond, within an interval of 24 – 48 hours. Its determining factor is the lack of acclimatisation to high latitude (for this reason it can seize the travellers in a simple train ride in Peru or a landing in altitude (La Paz) It can appear in three different forms, with increasing seriousness: o Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) o High Altitude Cerebral Oedema (HACO) o High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPO) AMS is favoured by the rapidity of ascension, excessive exercise and cold. First symptoms: vicious headaches, fast and irregular pulse, aggravated by exercise, sometimes accompanied by buzzing ears and vertigo. Other symptoms: dyspnoea (physiological adaptation to hypoxia) that persists during rest and at night. Insomnia is frequent. Possible depression or euphoria. All these symptoms can disappear after a rest and an uptake of salicylic acid. If the UNESCO - ACTED 58 symptoms persist, a return to low altitude cannot be avoided, as altitude disease can be the prelude to cerebral or pulmonary oedema. HACO: dyspnoea gets worse and becomes permanent. It is accompanied by a first dry then productive cough and cyanosis. HAPO: intensive and permanent headaches, amplified by head movements, vomiting, equilibrium disorders, extreme asthenia, and often diplopia. Without an emergency treatment, severe consciousness troubles (confusion, hallucinations) can occur, followed by convulsions and coma. The basis of treatment for HACO and HAPO is oxygen therapy, furosemide (diuretics) and emergency retreat to altitudes at least 1000 m lower. Digitalics and bleeding are not indicated in case of pulmonary oedema; injected corticoids may be helpful as complements for treating cerebral oedema. The most organised tourists will bring over oxygen reserves and hyperbaric boxes (of light weight and high efficiency in case of oedema) These accidents are highly dangerous. Trekkers and travellers are absolutely advised to get progressively acclimatised to high altitude. Models of portable hyperbaric chambers The GAMOW sack: this model is cylindrical in shape (2.5 x 0.6 m) and inflatable with a pump. 12 pump strikes per minute are required to keep an internal pressure of 104 mmHg (139 mbar) and to prevent the formation of CO2. Net weight: 6.5 kg. The CERTEC sack: Conical (2.2 x 0.65 m). 8 strikes of hand pump per minute are required to maintain an internal pressure of 165 mmHg (220 mbar) and to prevent the formation of CO2. Weight: 4.8 kg (to this day, there are three models of the CERTEC sack, depending on altitude and objective of trekking or expedition). The CERTEC sack is more common in Europe than the GAMOW, as the maximal pressure is higher (165 mmHg compared to 104 mmHg, the former equivalent to a simulated descent of 800 m). The CERTEC is also lighter in weight (4.8 compared to 6.5 kg), offers an easier placing in the sack and is cheaper. Instructions for use The sack must be insulated from the soil with clothes or backpacks. The patient must urinate and defecate before entering the sack. During the inflating of the sack, one has to remind the patient to breathe normally and to “unclog” the ears by swallowing saliva. In case the sack deflates suddenly, the patient has to breathe out. During the recompression phase in the sack, the patient must be kept from cold in a sleeping bag and surrounded by blankets. If the sack is exposed to the sun, the inside temperature can quickly become hard to bear. UNESCO - ACTED 59 The usual protocol consists in sliding the patient into the sack, then pumping up until the security valves open. The sack should be maintained in state of pressure for about one hour. 8 to 12 pump strikes per minute are required to bring in fresh oxygen and prevent the accumulation of CO2. It is psychologically important to constantly talk to the patient and to reassure him/her whilst in the sack. After one hour, the patient is liberated from the sack and examined. Additional sequences of recompression might be necessary until the clinical state of the patient improves and allows him/her to take to the descent by himself/herself. Patients suffering of pulmonary oedema do not stand a horizontal position. The sack must be installed on a small slope; on even ground, an inclination of 30° should resolve this difficulty. Results of treatment A number of uncontrolled studies have reported a quick and durable improvement of the patients’ symptoms. Treatment under medical control of patients suffering of medium to severe altitude illness during one hour on an altitude of 4559 m led to an immediate improvement of the symptoms. Yet, if the patients remained at the altitude, the symptoms reappeared in the following 12 hours. In another study, an extended treatment of 3 hours also cleared the symptoms which reappeared in the consequent 12 hours. There exists no controlled study on treatment of pulmonary oedema in hyperbaric sacks. Problems connected to the use of hyperbaric sacks If the influx of fresh air falls below 40 l/min, the accumulation of CO2 may lead to CO2 intoxication. Anguish and claustrophobia Nausea in the sack Patients of HAPO are likely to not stand horizontal position. In altitude, the act of pumping requires an important effort in order to maintain the pressure and allow a sufficient influx of fresh air. If the sack is not cautioned and handled correctly, risks of leaks through the zipper and the valves exist. P.BAERTSCH, F.BERGHOLD, JP. HERRY, O.OELZ translation J. Pierre HERRY, MD Price of CERTEC sacks (May 2003) - Mam’out: 2106 euros H.T. UNESCO - ACTED 60 - Trekking: 1242 euros H.T. Hyperbaric sacks’ appearence UNESCO - ACTED 61 ANNEXE 3. THE MARCO POLO Scientific view: “The abundance of the argali in Tajikistan has declined from an estimated 70,000-80,000 individual animals in the 1960's to approximately 20,000 individuals in the mid-1970's to 10,000-12,000 individuals by the late 1980's. The last national survey of argali in Tajikistan was conducted in 1991. The results of this survey revealed that "the total number of argali in the Pamirs was estimated to be 9,900-10,300 individuals." The existing unstable political situation in Tajikistan did not permit the collection of more up-to-date population data for the ASR, though it is believed that the argali population has declined as a result of this political turmoil [Service briefing, 11/4/94]. The distribution of the remaining argali populations, as it was the case in Kyrgyzstan, is highest in those areas where human access has been historically restricted. As stated on page 14 of the ASR: "The main stock of argali (72.4 percent) inhabits the protected areas on the slopes of the Sarykol mountain range along the border with China. It should be noted that larger herds were met with behind the line of engineer installations (barriers constructed in the vicinity of the border). The average herd behind the barriers contained 36.9 individuals, and the average before the barriers was 9.5 individuals. The population density of argali before these installations is five times less than behind them. The concentration of the main stock of argali behind the engineer installations is an alarming sign. The area occupied there, while not precisely known, is very small in comparison with the total area inhabited by argali in the Pamirs. Until recently, the border areas were scarcely accessible to the native human population and so represented a kind of natural reserve. But nowadays this territory benefits no more from special restrictions and is accessible to the native population. This access, doubtlessly, will have a negative effect on the number of argali population in the very near future." Hunters’ point of view: Extract from a hunting website: MARCO POLO ARGALI OVIS AMMON POLII The population of Marco Polo is incredibly huge, even though it is listed as a CITES animal. We hunt the two areas, which qualify for import into the US. It is normal for a hunter to see 300 - 600 sheep a day, or more. It's not at all unusual to see over 100 rams. Most clients are successful in taking a trophy ram within two or three days. UNESCO - ACTED 62 Trophy Size: This species is known for its massive horns and huge bases. Marco Polo has long slim horns with less girth at the base than many of the other Argali, and the horns have distinct edges rather than a rounded horn. The horn section is three-cornered with acute edges. Big Argali have horns with a length 52 - 63 inches and bases of 15 to 16 inches. Winter kill horns have been picked up measuring 75". Habitat Natural habitat is the high mountains, over 9000 feet. During the winter the old Argali stay together in the higher altitudes. "High" is relative. Mountain valleys are at 14,000 feet, and the mountains rise out of those valleys, going up to around 17,000 to 18,000 feet. There is a lot of talk about sheep coming down out of the mountains when it snows. This is not what you might think, there are not so many high mountains available to come down from. Mountains do not rise very much above the valleys. Range Central and Eastern part of the Pamir mountains, near the borders of China and Afghanistan. Marco Polo in Tajikistan Habitat is arid and barren, ranging from 15,000 to 18,000 feet. Marco Polo hunting is conducted South of Murgab village in the triangle between the border of Pakistan, China and Afghanistan. The hunting region is located in the center of the Pamir Mountains with some elevations over 16,000 feet. The base camp is at 14,000 feet. The primary hunting region is adjacent to the famous Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan, noted for its large trophies. UNESCO - ACTED 63 ANNEXE 4 CULTURE, TRADITIONS (Sources : Country Guide – Asie Centrale – Petit Futé) Bat Bat is the spring festival and merges with Navruz, as is often the case in Central Asia combining “ pagan ” and Muslim traditions. On the eve of Bat, men bring clayish earth to repair damaged walls. A sheep is killed and prepared for the evening. Early in the next morning, neighbours pass by whishing each other a happy celebration. When one wants to whish a happy Bat, he has to get up very early in the morning, as one has to be the first one to do so. One arrives with a present, e.g. a “ Lipiochka ” (round loaf of bread) and wishes all a good spring celebration: “ choguni bakhor mubarak ”. If you are in fact the first to arrive at your friend’s house, he will answer: “ barui shumo mubarak ” and will invite you in for a cup of tea and will offer money or an animal. During the rest of the day, bat is prepared, a flour based white soup on that is used for decorating the beams of the houses. Some just put white dots, others draw flowers and decorations that will remain until the following year. Navruz or “ shogun ” Just before Navruz, villagers prepare small animals made of bread dough for the children. They are put to dry and then decorated with Bat, dried fruit or nuts. On the day of Navruz, neighbors gather in groups of three families and select a three year old animal, sheep or goat, to be slaughtered on the “oston”, the holy ground of the village. The feast begins after the prayer of the imam. The meat is prepared, and with the fat of the animal and blackberry sugar, a sweet bat is prepared. During the meal, the guests gather in groups of three around a dish. Ramazan Before Ramazan or Ramadan, the inhabitants of certain villages have the custom to light three small branches: one on the entry of the house, one on the highest corner of the door and one on the ancestors’graves. Alow Parak This celebration used to take place once a year and was the highest celebration of the ancient Aryans. It took place on the last Wednesday of the month of Safar, following a cycle of a year and 10 days. It symbolized the renewing and the delivery from evil. The ritual took place in the temple of fire, at nightfall. It consisted of jumping three times over a fire and then tearing a piece of clothes and throwing into the fire, repeating “mu balo tu ti” – may my hardships burn with you. After that, everybody tied a red thread to his/her arm and kept it for three days. This tradition was still practiced in the fifties. HANDICRAFT The “ tchorapi ” are high and thick woolen socks over which one wears low shoes, “pekh”. The symbolism of the motives decorating the tchorapi evokes preislamic times. They often feature natural, animal or religious figures, like dragon “ajdorpaikal”, the bosom of eagle “Sinai boz”, the scorpion “gajdum”, the traces of the wolf “pai gurg”, the four headed dragon “khajdokhoni tchorsare” or the sun, a cross, or the swastika. These decorations played a protective and magic role. If the meaning of the symbols is lost, the tradition is lost. The same UNESCO - ACTED 64 is true for the motives embroidered on the “toke” – or tiubetek – the little caps worn by men and showing signs of ancestral symbolism. PRECIOUS STONES The precious stones of Badakhshan were the fortune of traders even before the “historic opening” of the Silk Road. The extraction of the stones has always been submitted to particular surveillance, armed guards watched the mines and thieves paid with their lives all tentative of theft or traffic. The Beg of Badakhshan, a vassal to the Khan of Bukhara, had to pay him 50% of the production. In Bukhara, meanwhile, the Khan played the generous, offering his guests afer banquets bowls of spinelle, rubies or amethysts from Badakhshan. During his passage through the Pamir, Marco Polo witnessed deep caves pierced into the mountain, from where “lai” and other precious stones were extracted. These stones were taken to India, to Persia, to Russia or Europe, where they were processed. The spinelle of Badakhshan, called “lai” is a pinkish stone to be found in the mines of Mount Kukhi-I-Lal south of Khorog. Here one also finds rubies and numerous semi-precious stones. A processing plant for semi-precious stones is found in Parchinow, a village situated between Khorog and Ruchan, where lazurites, amethysts, topaz, turmalines and granats are refined. MUSIC Khafiz : A poet, singer and a musician altogether, the Khafiz sings about every day life, work, the passing of the seasons…. Wedding songs or “cha omad”, “falak” – sad songs interpreted a capella, “lalailik” or “madoo made”, a meditative unending chanting. There is never a choir in the traditional Pamiri music, the lonely voice symbolizing the isolation and solitude of the valleys so long cut off the rest of the world. The songs of the Pamirs are not songs composed to seduce the listener’s ear, but rather rhythmical songs from which emanates antique melodies of the Sogdians and the Kuchan, a veritable “genetic heritage” of Badakhshan, to borrow the terms of the greatest Pamiri Khafiz, Navrzsho Kurbonasseinov. Ousto. A master of crafts, he posesses the art to give life to musical intruments. Masseïn Masseïnov of Andarob village is one of the best known craftsmen. Musical instruments There are different chord instruments, among which the “ rubob ” is the most commonly known. Other instruments are the “guijak”, “dar”, “naï”, “setor”, “torud” and the balanzukat, an instrument of 21 chords of the same family as the rubob. A legend narrates the divine origin of the rubob, how its celestial chant assisted the creation of the first man. When God finished to model man out of mud, he wanted to endow him with a soul. But God met with resistance and failed to insert it within the new body. So the angels began chanting, accompanied by their instruments, the rubob and the daf. Entranced by the music, the soul began to dance and circle around the body. The dance went on for hours and days, until the soul, inebriated by the music, entered man’s body and imparted life to him. Certain chord instruments like the “ masrude ”, designed by Ustod Massein depict human forms, their manche, two or sometimes three in numbers, representing the limbs. UNESCO - ACTED 65 On the skin spun over the body of resonance, the figurative patterns are easily recognized: eyes, a nose. Sometimes the back of the body is deeply carved in parallel designs like the ribs, symbolizing the thorax from where the the divine breath expires. The instrument must be made of old mulberry brumbles having rested in fresh water for a year. Some musics are interpreted by women alone, like e.g. those rhythms greeting the sundawn. The group consists of 3, 5 or 7 singers all dressed in white or red and playing the daf, a large tambourine. UNESCO - ACTED 66 ANNEXE 5. PHOTOGRAPHIC DOCUMENTS A series of digital photographs as well as documents regarding the various visual ressources of the Pamirs have been collected on CD Rom and are joined to the report. This CD Rom also contains a PowerPoint presentation summarizing the report. PROGRAMME OF FIELD VISITS Workshop 30/03 to 07/04 Sunday 30/03 Monday 31/03 Tuesday 01/04 Wednesday 02 / 04 Thursday 03/ 04 Friday 04/ 04 Saturday 05/ 04 Sunday 06/ 04 Monday 07/ 04 Morning Preparation fieldtrip (Ubaidullah Mamadiev) Inventory of material Visit of the offered “ local accommodation ” Rankul (camels) Afternoon Evening 14h : Olesu valley (hot springspetroglyphs) Murghab Senestun: Chinese border Region: Southwest of Shorola (tombs and lake Karakul, solar calendar ?) direction Kokjar Heavy snow forbids further progress westwards to the sites of meteorite impact Murghab Tanimas valley Bazardara (inaccessible) Murghab Yurt camp Arkbalik or Arkzo Utchkol Bivouac in a “ lager ” of the Yura Madison hunting society Tchetebe (astro Vaya Kerteke Murghab observatory) Yak tukkul Debriefing – meeting with local officials – evaluation of local capacities – evaluation of training needs – future steps Return to Osh Visiting notes Olesu valley Two hours away from Murghab. An affluent to the Murghab River on the left bank. Crossing of river and drive in serpentines to the jailoo, approximately 15 km from the confluence. In the reconnaissance season, heavy snows forbid to continue all the way to the jailoo. Lots of tracks of Marco Polo in the snow. A beautiful and steep gorge, at its bottom hot springs are being exploited. UNESCO - ACTED 67 Hot springs Would deserve some rehabilitation: - Regulation of water temperature with a hose catching the water from the stream nearby. - Mobile wooden panels allowing a view on the gorge. - Altering of dressing room (pegs and mats cover all the surface of the dresser) - A little concrete flooring at the entrance to the baths. - Getting rid of the plastic on the walls and the windows. - Cleaning of the nearby environment: dustbins, regular cleaning of toilets Once these improvements are done, this site could become the departure or arrival point for a trek crossing the mountain range towards Bazardara. The “hot” Greenhouse The greenhouse produces cucumbers, but parasites seem to invade the plantations. The responsible man has no training/formation in phytosanitation. It seems that an ecotouristic valorisation of the site would yield real benefits (small catering, yurt accommodation). On the road along the Murghab River, some rough engravings can be seen on the rocks along the road. They seem to lack major touristic interest. Between the town and Olesu valley, the Murghab river crosses some prairies in numerous meanders. The dry mountains are sometimes quite impressive. At the end of the valley one sees the Sarez peak (5950 m), dominating the lake with the same name. It would be interesting to push a reconnaissance towards lake Sarez (downstream of the Murghab river), and eventually to consider trekking/mountaineering combining the exploration of the lake with the eponymous mountain. UNESCO - ACTED 68 ANNEXE 6. UPDATE ON PHIP TOURISM ACTIVITIES With its specific environment and nature, fauna and flora, historical, archaeological, ethnographical rich, the Pamirs attract 80% of tourists in Tajikistan and most of them are interested by Murghab district, the most eastern part of the Pamir. To date, Badakhshan InTourist seems to be the only structure possessing legal status and thus conducting tourism in the Pamirs. Annually Badakhshan InTourist receives and offers services to 10 to 15 persons and all of them have come to Murghab. “The price of certification is 3000 USD and to justify this amount we should maintain a high quality of services. And to attract more tourists, to collaborate and sign agreements with international companies in the World Tourism Fairs, we have no money” says Director of Badakhshan InTourist Mullo Abdul Shagarf. The Tajik National Park, which covers a huge territory, is the only official natural park but has no real means to implement protection/conservation measures Nevertheless, it intends to develop Ecotourism if it finds means for investments. At present, according to registrations of the Murghab National Security Service (exKGB), 16 foreigners have come in 2001, and on August 31st, 2002, 17 foreigners have come to Murghab district. Almost all of them came through different NGOs and Development Organisations. Through international hunting companies 33 hunters in 2000 and 24 hunters in 2001 have come for Marco-Polo sheep hunting to the East Pamirs (see the table below) Int’l Hunting Companies Badakhshan Murghab Turvest Total Customers Customers Customers in 2000 in 2001 in 2002 7 18 0 24 4 0 2 2 0 33 24 0 The ACTED-PHIP to support local initiatives and promote community service tourism in the East Pamirs has implemented the following actions: 2. Collection of information: o Has begun collecting information on interesting sites of Murghab district and made the list of sites. o Has begun seeking data and opportunities to produce a tourism map of GBAO or just East Pamir. o Has begun collecting documents of historical, archaeological monuments and cultural heritage. 3. Impulsing social dynamics: o Created a basic structure of association of guides belonging to vulnerable categories of the population o Two local guides are selected to receive basic training and become operational o Some owners of horses have been contacted and an agreement with the owners for rental fees has been sought. o Provided a basic training of two women to serve clients UNESCO - ACTED 69 o Identified and fixed accommodations and yurts for the tourists from regional organizations (16 Tourists to date) o Two private houses have been found and some small repairs have been carried out. o Four yurts organized in the form of a cooperative, on one of the main itineraries, have been sharing the services and operating horse trips. o Experienced local drivers were involved in car rental and transport of tourists o Three drivers and cars are currently providing service. o Prices of services have been tested and fixed for the moment as follows: - Price of private homestay is 6 USD per night including breakfast - Jeep tour 12 USD per 100 km excluding gasoline - Night in a yurt 5 USD per night including breakfast - Meals in the jailoo 5 USD - Guides salary 5 USD per day (10 US$ Ubaidunla) - Horse back riding 1 USD per hour or 5 USD per day - Laundry 1 USD - Taking a shower in the private banya 1 USD - The price of 1 liter of gasoline is 0,5$ - The price of one meal is 5$ For the time being this price list seems reasonable as we do not take in account payment of 3000 USD for certification and additional payment for taxes. SERVICES PROVIDED BY THE GUIDE ASSOCIATION # Itinerary Murghab Type of tourism Culture and Ethnography Jeep tour Service provided Accommodation and singer Accommodation 1 Murghab 2 3 4 Pyshart, Kuurbai Kyzyl-Jylga, Apak glacier Jailoo life, Jeep tour Trekking, Horse riding Transport and guide Transport, yurt, horses and guide 2 persons from France Alexander and Bruno Klari, Emmanuelle and Laeticia 5 Madian Guide, yurt Perry and Julie 10-11.07.02 6 Pyshart Sasyk David 15.08.02. 7 Madian Ann and Pierre 27.08.02. 8 Murghab Bruno 28.08.02, Jeep tour, Petroglyphs Jailoo life Archaeology and History Culture and Ethnography Archaeology Transport Horses and guide Accommodation Transfer to Osh Accommodation Names of tourists Franz FREI Date 29.12.01. 01.01.02. 03.07.02, 12.06.02 29-30.06.02 UNESCO - ACTED 70 9 Murghab 10 Madian, Pyshart 11 Murghab 12 Kyzyl-Jylga History Archaeology History Jeep tour Jailoo life Jeep tour Jeep tour and Hors riding Transfer to Osh Accommodation Transfer to Osh Transport and transfer to Osh Accommodation, transfer to Osh Guide Cecile and Pierre Great Game Travel Gerard and Catherine Markus Hauser 26.08.02, 25.08.02. 29.08.02. 28.08.02. SERVICES PROVIDED TO PSP 1 Tchesh-Tobo 2 Muz-Kerl, Kara-Kerl Shaimakh, Tchesh-Tobo Kara-Kul Bartang 3 4 Jeep tour, wildlife Jeep tour, wildlife Jeep tour, wildlife Jeep tour Transport, yurt and guide Transport, yurt and guide Transport, yurt and guide Transport Andrea and Riccarda Andrea 12-16 08.02 Riccarda 23-31.08.02. Andrea 31.08.02 22-27.08.02 This is the first step towards providing services by the informal Guide Association and Cooperatives and the project is elaborating appropriate mechanisms and strategies to refine the service and consolidate the structures: o Support to creation of internal rules, community funds and obtainment of official status of the Guides Association and Cooperatives. o Define the training needs more precisely and according to the first experiences of summer 2002. o Promote conservation of the cultural heritage by gathering data and attracting donors to fund this activity. o Moderate the linking-up with international, governmental, public or private organizations, which have an interest in collaborating with local tourism initiatives, in order to preserve the genuine hospitality and traditions. o Promotion of tourism potentials and products on the international markets with the elaboration of website, posters and brochures. o Development of an electronic archive and data bank dealing with history, culture, archeology, ethnography and biodiversity of the Pamirs. (Website) LIST OF PERSONS DIRECTLY INVOLVED IN ECO-TOURISM PROGRAM TODAY # 1 Name Taimankulov Maman Location Murghab 2 Zainidinov Aidarali Murghab Service Provided Driver/Guide with his own car Driver with his own car UNESCO - ACTED 71 4 5 6 7 Murzaeva Aisha Kolish Tajibaev Mamish Sary Murghab Murghab Pyshart, Kyzyl-Jylga Pyshart, Jar-Jylga Private guest house Private guest house Yurt and horses Yurt and horses At this moment these people provided more or less their services for the promotion of tourism in Murghab and the project intends to reinforce the local capacities with new members of the team. There is still a great need to improve the infrastructure of services and namely address the following points this year: o Two accommodations or home-stays of Aisha and Kolish need to be rehabilitated (white paint, improvement of latrines, bath and general hygiene) o These families and owners of yurts, which provide service, should be supplied with bed sheets and dishes. o Provide assistance to increase basic knowledge of service to whoever is involved in tourism activity with training programs and consultancies. UNESCO - ACTED 72 ANNEXE 7. FOLLOW-UP COMMUNICATION Dear Ubaidullah Mamadiev, dear all, I first would like to thank you for your welcome, not only yours but also the whole team’s reception. We are all conscious that our work in Murghab is definitely not finished after the mission we carried out, and we hope to find enough sponsors to build some sustainable conditions for ecotourism development. The first results of the mission are to be consolidated and validated the potential of Murghab district as a near future destination for ecotourism activities. I hope you will receive as soon as possible my conclusions and recommendations. During my stay in Bishkek, I met Sergei (Novinomad), and he accepted two principles, to be confirmed by his board: - Novinomad could become the relay for visitors coming from Bishkek to Murghab (airport assistance, transfers to Osh, obtention of visas, intermediate connexions between foreign tour operators and Murghab Ecotourism Association); - Novinomad could provide training programs during the beginning of 2003 tourism season, at a cost price (these expenses being covered by Murghab Ecotourism Association budget. Conditions and program may be discussed and finalised at UNESCO's Chitral workshop. Visas : We received good news from the new embassy of Tadjikistan in Bishkek: obtention of visas will be facilitated if you follow the below-mentioned process. Mr Kalandarov (conselor of Tadjikistan consulate in Bishkek) recommends: 1/ To take contact with Mr Mamadrizohonov Akbar, State University of Khorog, president of the Touristic Centre "Tourism on the roof of the world". Tél: 22 00 94 Tél/fax: 66 41 43 2/ Mr Mamadrizohonov will accept to provide letters of invitation for the visitors planning to come in Murghab district. These letters have to mention that visas will be delivered at the Bishkek Embassy. 3/ You probably will have to negotiate with him a price for the service. 4/ Mr Mamadrizohonov will send the letters of invitation by fax: 1 copy to the embassy (to the attention of Mr Kalandarov), and a copy to Novinomad (after you will have obtained their agreement). Bishkek embassy contact: Sharifkhon K. KALANDAROV 17/1, Koenkozova st. Bishkek, 720017 Kyrgyz Republic Tél/ fax : +996 (312) 22-00-94 Tél : +996 (312) 66-41-43 UNESCO - ACTED 73 E-mail : tojsaforat@exnet.kg Novinomad contact : Sergei Ap.10 28 T Moldo street Phone : 996 312 62 23 81 , 60 05 59 fax : 996 312 62 23 80 Email : novinomad@elcat.kg Last point: during our discussions, we have forgotten to evaluate the price of car transfer between Osh and Murghab. This is an urgent point to clarify since we have probably found your first clients for this summer: Gerard Guillerm (Asia rando, I think you met him last year in Murghab), would like to send you 2 or 4 clients in extension of a horse ride trekking in Kirghizstan. The program would be a 12 day travel- Osh to Osh, meaning 10 days in and around Murghab. I suggest you to charge 140 US$ for the roundtrip (one car), plus 72 US$ for fuel and 10 US$ for the driver. We have a capacity problem with the Wazik, if you assure transportation at Osh by yourself (and even if you don't...). We will have to examinate these points with Erik. But anyway, let's start with the idea of 2 visitors. These problems would be resolved with a Wazik minibus. Please, don't hesitate to contact me for any questions. I will send you as soon as possible a suggestion of a 10 day program. Yours truly Guy DELAUNAY EQUATERRE Associations 1245 Chemin de Fabrègues F13510 Eguilles 33 4 42 92 67 43 (office) 33 6 08 42 16 38 (cell) WEBSITE EQUATERRE : equaterre.net UNESCO - ACTED 74 UNESCO - ACTED 75 8 -ECOTOURISM ITINERARY IN EAST PAMIR - 16 DAYS 16-days journey - Option 1 Days Stop-over Places of Interest 1 Arrival to Osh airport by Plane to ACTED Guest House 2 Trip from Osh to Murghab Sight seeing of Osh town & short trip in the surrounding Mountains Scenery of Pamirs Highway 3 1. Acclimatisation day /acquaintance with Murghab town 2. Field trip to Madian and hot spring From Hot spring to Yly Suu Jaïloo 1. Local Market. 2. Petroglyphs in Niazek and Hot spring in Yly Suu Valley. Jaïloo life in the high mountains and yurts Tents 5 From Yly Suu Jaïloo to Yly Suu high mountain High mountain lake at 4500 masl and alpine meadow with edelweiss Tents 6 From Yly Suu high mountain to Bazar Dara Pass Alichur mountain range and East Bazar Dara Pass 4977 masl Tents 7 From Bazar Dara Pass to Bazar Dar ancient miner’s town Ancient Miner’s town of the beginning “silver crisis age” in 11 century 8 From Bazar Dara town to Upper Bazar Airyk The highest petroglyphes in the world in Ak Jilga Valley 4 Type of accommodation ACTED Guest House Distance in Kms 10 Guides Means of Transport Interpreter By car 420 Interpreter By car 45 Interpreter and local guide By car 12 Interpreter and local guide 13 Interpreter and local guide Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 10 Interpreter and local guide Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food Home-stay Yurt Meals Lunch Dinner Breakfast 1. Lunch in private Canteen 2. Dinner in Homestay 1. Breakfast & Lunch in homestay. 2. Dinner in the field. 1. Breakfast in the field 2. Lunch, dinner in the yurt 1. Breakfast in yurt 2. Breaks: lunch, dinner on the field UNESCO - ACTED 77 9 From Bazar Airyk to Zor Tor mountain Pass over high mountain glacier Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 16 Interpreter and local guide 10 From Zor-Tor to Katta Marjanai Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide 11 From Katta Marjanai to Tozok Dara Zor-Tor Pass 5000 masl. Wildlife, Ibexes, Marcopolo sheep maybe snow leopard. Wildlife, Ibexes, Marcopolo sheep maybe snow leopard. Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide 12 From Tozol Dara to Jashyl Kol Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 18 Interpreter and local guide 13 From Jashyl Kol to Bulung Kol High mountain lake, Kara Domor sanctuary tomb XII to XII centuries and hot spring High mountain lakes Homestay 16 Interpreter and local guide 14 From Bulung Kol to Murghab Osh-Khorog Highway and Petropglyphs in Naïza Tash Homestay 150 Interpreter and local guide 15 Murghab Homestay 16 Departure from Murghab to Osh Handicraft and Kyrgyz Culture Museum Scenery of Pamirs Highway 1. Breakfast and break in the field 2. Lunch, dinner in the homestay Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner in homestay Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner in homestay 1. Breakfast and lunch in the homestay 2. Dinner in ACTED Guest House ACTED Guest House 420 By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By car Interpreter By foot Interpreter By car UNESCO - ACTED 78 9. ECOTOURISM ITINERARY IN EAST PAMIR 17 DAYS For 17-days Option 2 Days Stop-over Places of Interest 1 Arrival to Osh airport by Plane to ACTED Guest House 2 Trip from Osh to Murghab Sight seeing of Osh town & short trip in the Mountains around Scenery of Pamir Highway Osh-Khorog 3 1. Acclimatization day /acquaintance with Murghab town 2. Field trip to Madian and hot spring From Hot spring to Yly Suu Jaïloo 1. Local Market. 2. Petroglyphs in Niazek and Hot spring in Yly Suu Valley. Jaïloo life in the high mountains and yurts Tents 5 From Yly Suu Jaïloo to Yly Suu high mountain High mountain lake at 4500m and alpine meadow with edelweiss Tents 6 From Yly Suu mountain to Bazar Dara Pass Alichur mountain range and East Bazar Dara Pass 4977 masl Tents 7 From Bazar Dara Pass to Bazar Dar ancient miner’s town Ancient Miner’s town of the beginning “silver crisis Age” in 11th century 8 From Bazar Dara town to Upper Bazar Airyk Ak Jilga The highest petroglyphs in the world in Ak Jilga Valley 4 Type of accommodation ACTED Guest House Guides Means of Transport Interpreter By car 420 Interpreter By car 45 Interpreter and local guide By car 12 Interpreter and local guide 13 Interpreter and local guide Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 10 Interpreter and local guide Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food Home-stay Yurt Meals Lunch Dinner Breakfast 1. Lunch in private Canteen 2. Dinner in Homestay 1. Breakfast & Lunch in homestay. 2. Dinner in the field. 1. Breakfast in the field 2. Lunch, dinner in the yurt 1. Breakfast in yurt 2. Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field Distance in Km 10 UNESCO - ACTED 79 9 From Bazar Airyk, Ak Jylga to Ak Jylga pass Ak Jylga pass 4918 masl Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 18 Interpreter and local guide 10 From Ak Jylga Pass to Ak Tam Wildlife, Ibexes, Marcopolo sheep may be snow leopard. Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 20 Interpreter and local guide 11 From Ak Tam to Bulung Kol Osh-Khorog highway. Bulung Kol lake Homestay Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner in homestay 65 Interpreter and local guide 12 From Bulung Kol to Jashyl Kol Overview of Jashyl Kol and fishing Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 18 Interpreter and local guide 13 Jashyl Kol Tents Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner on the field 18 Interpreter and local guide 14 From Jashyl Kol to Bulung Kol High mountain lake, Kara Domor sanctuary tomb XII to XII centuries BC and hot spring High mountain lake and Alichur river Homestay 16 Interpreter and local guide 15 From Bulung Kol to Murghab Osh-Khorog Highway and Petropglyphs in Naïza Tash Homestay 150 Interpreter and local guide 16 Murghab Homestay 17 Departure from Murghab to Osh Handicraft and Kyrgyz Culture Museum Scenery of Khorog-Osh Highway 1. Breakfast and break in the field 2. Lunch, dinner in the homestay Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner in homestay Breakfast, Breaks Lunch, dinner in homestay Full accomodation ACTED Guest House ACTED Guest House 420 By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food and/oy by car. By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By foot 3 yaks and 1 horse to carry the luggage and food By car Interpreter By foot Interpreter By car UNESCO - ACTED 80 81