1 - ProVino AS

advertisement
20.01.2006 St. Vincent
1. Rødvin Rondo 2003
Bornholm Danmark
12%
Pris: DKK 499,00
Vingård Lille Gadegård
Jesper Paulsen
Søndre Landevej 63
3720 Aakirkeby
Tlf.: 56 97 80 63
Email: a7@a7.dk
Rondo 2003 dufter tiltrækkende, sollyset må kæmpe med farven, så overvældende rød og sort som en
fuldfed italiener. Syrebalancen er på plads, tørheden klar uden at være smældende skarp, og den virker
hverken pri-mitiv eller rå. Der er brombær, peber, lakrids og lidt læder i smagen, og den holder længe i
ganen. Den kan drikkes nu og vil udvikle sig ved yderligere lagring. Vinen kan nydes til kraftig mad,
der også er tilberedt med omtanke og følsomhed. Desuden giver fetaost og oliven sammen med vinen
gode oplevelser på helhed og samhørighed.
Pris: DKK 499,00
Historien
Lille Gadegård startede vinproduktionen i 1995. De første år var det jordbærvin, men da Danmark i år
2000 blev vinland, blev der plantet druer.
I oktober 2002 høstedes 1500kg druer - som blev til 900 liter rødvin.
I dag har Lille Gadegård 2,9 ha tilplantet med druer - formentlig Danmarks største areal med vin.
Årgang 2002 sælges ikke mere. Der er få flasker af årgang 2003 tilbage, og salget af årgang 2004
frigives 1. august.
1
2. Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas 2001
46786 Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas 2001
Luis Pato
Beiras Interior, Portugal
100% Baga
Kroner 190,10
89 poeng
Det portugisiske vinhus – Per Bakker Agency
2001 var en superårgang i Beiras. Herlig stram vin med duft av krekling og blåbær, lær og tjære. Tett,
stram og kompakt vin med god syre og lang tørr finish. Deilig nå for de som tåler en trøkk, og perfekt
for de som kan legge den vekk i fem til 10 år. Vinene er laget av den notoriske vanskelige, men tidvis
fantastiske Baga-druen. Prøv den til kraftig oksekjøtt, lam og geit.
Baga paradokset
Baga er en druetype som både er beryktet og genierklært. På sitt verste gir den beske viner helt uten
frukt, men på sitt beste er dette kompromissløse og stramme matviner som tåler lang lagring. Baga kan
kanskje best sammenlignes med klassiske italienske druetyper som nebbiolo, sangiovese og aglianico.
De beste bagavinene som Vinha Pan og Vinha Barosso fra Luis Pato burde være obligatoriske i alle
seriøse vinkjellere.
Luis Pato- den nye vinen i portugal
Luis Pato arvet vingården etter sin far João Pato som var den store pioneren i området. Luis innførte
likefullt nye tanker og teknikker. Den aller viktigste er at han begynte å kutte vekk begynnende
drueklaser om sommeren.
Det store problemet med Baga i det relativt kjølige klimaet i Beiras er at druene har vanskelig for å
modnes. Grønn innhøsting er løsningen. Mindre druer på vinstokken gir bedre modning. Derfor laget
jeg god vin selv i det vanskelige året 1996, forklarer Luis Pato.
Han innførte også franske eiketønner istedenfor gamle store eikeliggere av nøttetre. Han vil likevel
ikke lage viner som smaker for mye eik. Derfor er fatene nesten tre ganger så store som vanlig. Den
mest kjente og mest tilgjengelige bagavinen fra Luis Pato er imidlertid Vinhas Velhas. Dette er en
blanding av viner fra gamle vinstokker i flere vinmarker. En klassiker.
Luis Pato selv liker å sammenligne en gammel vin av bagadruen med gamle viner av nebbiolo (Barolo
og Barbaresco) og pinot noir-druen fra Burgund. Vi synes kanskje at baga minner mest om Aglianico
fra Campania – vis man først må sammenligne.
Alle rødvinene er laget mest mulig naturlig på tross av at Luis Pato egentlig er kjemiker. Han tilsetter
ikke kultivert gjær, praktiserer forsiktig ekstraksjon i ti dager og tapper enkeltvinmarkene ufiltrert.
Vinene hans har en stram karakter med mye ekstrakt og litt lite duft som unge. Jo mer moden bagadrue,
dess mørkere og mer bjørnebærpreget blir aromabildet i vinene hans.
2
3. Jose L. Ferrer Reserva 2000
Binissalem, Malorca
80% Montenegro, 10% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
13%
Ein kräftiger, komplexer Wein mit kraftvollem Körper und Noten von Früchten, Gewürzen und
Trüffeln. (1999)
In 1931 'José L. Ferrer Ramonell ' founded the bodega which still keeps his name today. With this a
long tradition of a wine farmer family was continued - both grandfathers won a medal on the 'Universal
exhibition in Barcelona' for the extraordinary quality of their wines.
José L. Ferrer has a very specialized and fundamental knowledge in wine growing which he got from
his studies in France.
The vineyards of Binissalem are right in the heart of the island Majorca, the Tramuntanya mountains
protect against the cold winds from the north. The mild clima in Mallorca and the ideal earth always
guarantee a good harvest. Origin and quality of the wines are written down in the official mark of
origin 'Binissalem - Mallorca'. Already since the Roman times, about 2.000 years ago, these noble
wines enjoy a special repute.
The vineyards of more than 70 hectares with its fertile ground, also the grapes from the farmers of the
neighbourhood ensure a total production of 1.000.000 bottles per year.
The special features and personality of the Binissalem wines are specified through the various grapes
which are used for the production.
Through the mixture of the sweet and flavourful "Manto Negro" and the smooth "Callet", extraordinary
red wines are produced, which ripen in american and french oak barrels. These barrels are stored in a
huge, cool cellar of the Bodega, like the bottles of the Reserve wines.
From the white 'Moll' grape a unique and fruity white wine is produced. Over the years the Bodegas
José L. Ferrer were extended more and more to combine the traditional way of production with the
latest modern technology. This ensures the same accurateness which were used already by the founder
of this family company.
The famoust wines of the Bodega:
(all with the official label of origin: "Denominacio D'Origen Binissalem")







J.L. Ferrer "Gran Reserva"
J.L. Ferrer "Reserva"
J.L. Ferrer "Crianza"
J.L. Ferrer "Blanc de Blancs"
J.L. Ferrer "Viña Veritas"
J.L. Ferrer "Rosado"
J.L. Ferrer "Autentico"
3
4. Pujanza 2001
Rioja, Spania
100% Tempranillo
14%
Robert Parker: 91/100
Jean-Michel Deluc:
http://www.uk.chateauonline.com/pages/gate.asp?mainurl=/pages/fichevin.asp?idproduct%3D17605%
26subprodid%3D24353
Our opinion
A classical, yet imposing wine, due to its exaggerated fineness and proundness. A wonderful
compromise between the roundness and maturity of the substance, and the incisive freshness of the
structure. A wine of outstanding dimension, quality and complexity. Best when decanted before
serving, in order to fully appreciate its luxurious texture and fine, fruity character. Best kept for a while
and served with game dishes.
Description
This domaine, situated in Finca Valdepoleo and covering approximately 15 hectares, is one of the
spearheads of this prestigious Rioja appellation. This top of the line cuvée is made from 100%
Tempranillo and is matured for 16 months in French oak barrels.
Tips on service
• Conservation: ready now but will improve
• At its best in: 2012
• To decant: 1 hour
• Serve at 17°
Food and wine matching
Partridge served with cabbage, savoury rabbit Garenne, salmi of pigeon, tournedos of beef with foie
gras, Cantal, Mimolette.
Tasting notes
By Jean Michel Deluc : Master Sommelier
Eye - A ruby coloured wine of good intensity, with glints of violet and slightly darker shades of mauve
towards the edge of the glass. This wine is bright, limpid and displays good concentration.
Nose - Very fine, discreet notes are immediately present on the nose, followed by a more obvious
aromatic framework of ripe fruits, including cherries, sloe berries and wild strawberries. These are later
succeeded by discrete notes of barrel ageing, of pepper, vanilla and cedar wood.
Palate - The attack on the palate is delicately soft and smooth, with a decidedly square structure on the
mid-palate. The wine has a refreshing acidity and the tannins are still wonderfully pungent, lending
incredible dimension to the wine. Fruity flavours that were not found in the nose are found here,
accompanied by a fresh liqourice finish.
4
5. Borgognot Barolo Riserva 1990
Italia
14%
The village of Barolo is placed in the heart of the Langhe, the most prestigious wine-area in Piedmont.
Its origin is very old but its name appeared for the first time in a document dated 1200. Barolo is
situated in a valley surrounded by beautiful and harmonious hills covered by vineyards that origin the
great wine Barolo. Its between these hills and these vineyards that, around 1720, Borgogno’s family sat
the farm called “BORGOGNOT”.
Even in that period the family was already the owner of some vineyards in Barolo. In 1950 Lodovico
Borgogno, actual owner, introduced new methods of work looking for top quality results in the
vineyards, in the production of wines and in their marketing.
The passion for this land, these hills and vineyards, infected also Virna, Lodovico’s daughter,
oenologist, who follows the father in all the different ports of the production with only an easy aim: the
growth of the wine “Barolo” and of the other wines of this area, trying to put in result all their
characteristics through which you could discover the thousand secrets of our land.
The farm owns approximately 10 hectares of vineyards for the production of the Langa’s typical wines
such as: Dolcetto doc Alba, Barbera doc Alba, Nebbiolo doc Alba.
1990 Borgogno Lodovico Barolo Riserva (Italy, Piedmont)
Cork was half saturated. open and drunk without decanting at a byob restaurant. poor lighting so hard
to get a good visual. But the nose was unmistakeable, heavy tabacco, with leather. roses and chocolate.
good if not too light in the mouth. well integrated with vertually no tannins. still srtong fruit. good
balance. this was a nice barolo showing some complexity with no obvious faults but nothing too
capivating either.
Vintage Chart:
2000
1999
1998
1997
1996
1995
1994
1993
1992
1991
1990
1989
1988
1987
1986
1985
1984
1983
1982
5
6. Massena – The Moonlight Run 2002
Barossa Valley
Grenache, Shiraz, Cinsaut, Matoro
14,5%
Back in 1999 Dan Standish and Jaysen Collins (above) were working the vintage at Taylor's in the
Clare Valley, stuck on the midnight shift. So when they started their own venture together in 2000, they
named one of their wines 'The Moonlight Run' after the nightly journey they made to the Clare. There's
also a story behind another of their wines, the 11th Hour Shiraz, which is from a patch of old vines in
Greenock that were about to be rooted up until they swooped for the grapes - yes, you guessed it - at
the 11th hour. I don't know the story behind the howling dog Durif, but then this dark, extreme wine is
only made in tiny amounts.
Currently, Massena isn't a big outfit - running at around 1000 cases - but it is beginning to make waves.
1000 cases are made, mainly from old vineyards in the western ridge/Greenock areas. The wines are
quite striking and modern, but not overly so.
In common with almost all of these new Barossa outfits, there is no physical winery. Jaysen and Dan
have barrels in a couple of locations, one of which is in a barn that belongs to a grower (where I tasted),
the other of which isn't accessible at the weekend (this heavily fortified location is where Torbreck
store most of their wines). My notes here are confined to just a few barrel samples, therefore, although
I've tried finished Massena wines on several occasions
Rated: 90
Deep medium ruby. Superripe aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and roasted herbs, plus a porty
suggestion of maple syrup. Fat and very rich, with thick, tactile flavors of roasted plum, raspberry and
chocolate. A large-scaled wine in a Southern Rhone style. I might have rated this even higher but for a
slight harshness to its tannins.
Massena The Moonlight Run 2002
$330 per btl
http://www.altayawines.com/ns_04_05_p1_3.htm
Grape varietal: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Cinsault
AWL “92 pts ... Dark garnet. Sweet aromas of earth, game, oak and pepper. It is full-bodied and loaded
with blackberry liqueur, smoke, charcoal, pepper, cassis, and licorice. Sweet tannins and low acidity
can be found in the finish. This riveting effort can be drunk now, but promises to age well for a decade
or more."
6
7. Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Margaret River, Western Australia
15%
Cape Mentelle, Western Australia, Margaret River, B44460, kr 299,90 / 75 cl
Denne vinen er produsentens flaggskip. Kompleks duft av solbær, eukalyptus, anis, lær og pepper. Fyldig og
moden smak, flott syrlighet og behagelig tanninsnerp i ettersmaken.
Cape Mentelle Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
http://www.boccaccio.com.au/prod898.htm
Taking on the mantle of maturity, a bouquet of violets and brambley fruit complexed with brandy snaps, vanilla
and tobacco. The wine evolves over time to an array of aromas that let your imagination run wild. Dense and
luscious palate, which is offering immediate appeal now but will continue to develop beautifully for years to come.
Vineyard
The fruit sourced for this wine comes from our oldest vines planted on the estate between 1970-72. The
vineyard is located 8 kilometres from the ocean, with an elevation of 80 metres and a south-west
aspect. The vines grow on gravel laterite soils derived from decomposed ironstone over gravelly, clay
sub - soils. Vine spacing is 2200 vines/hectare with all vines vertically trained with judicious shoot and
leaf removal carried out during late summer to open the canopy to sunlight. All vines are cane pruned
with between 30 and 40 buds left on each vine. Trickle irrigation is installed and used sparingly,
combined with a springtime composting to maintain vine health and ensure that physiologically ripe
grapes are harvested.
Season
A mild yet wet winter with fairly consistent rains continuing till the end of October and cool to mild
temperatures continuing to November ensured a relatively late budburst and flowering. By early
summer, with the continuation of some mild to very warm temperatures and an end to the rain, the
vines got a kick along. Ideal ripening conditions prevailed for the rest of the season due to optimal
photosynthesis conditions. Weather was characterised by a lack of excessive heat and mild night time
temperatures ensuring the vineyards provided fully ripe and flavoursome fruit. A little scare in early
March by cyclone Steve produced only 7 mm of rain and provided brief respite during a rather hectic
harvest schedule. Fine and mild weather continued until the last grapes were harvested by 12th April.
Another excellent Marri blossom during February and March provided plenty of nectar for the
silvereyes, which diminished their hunger for grapes.
Harvest
Two batches of Cabernet were harvested from the estate block on the 29th March and the 5th April.
The sugar levels between the batches ranged from 25.0 to 26.1 brix and acidities between 6.2g/L,
pH3.62 and 7.1g/L, pH 3.52. Average yield from the old vines was a moderate 7.6 tonne / hectare. A
small amount (7%) of Cabernet franc from our Trinders vineyard harvested 20th March was used to lift
the aromatics, harvested at 26 brix 5.5 g/L and ph 3.68.
Vinification
Fruit arriving at the winery is checked before it is de-stemmed and lightly crushed so that high
proportions of whole berries are conveyed to the fermenter. The must was left to macerate for a day
before seeding with neutral strain of yeast. Early vigorous extraction is followed by a gentler pump
over regime as the ferment proceeds. Cabernet stays on skins for up to 28 days depending on the health
and ripeness of the skins. Once dry, the wine is inoculated for malo-lactic fermentation. Then racked
twice before going into barrels of which 75% of the barrels are new in late May. The oak for the barrels
originates exclusively from the forests of Nevers, Allier and Troncais and coopered in France. The
wine underwent periodic barrel to barrel rackings and regular toppings with a final assemblage done in
spring of '00. The early blending allows time for a harmonious marriage of the components to occur.
After 18 months in barrel the wine was blended together and coarsely filtered into bottle, mid
December 2001.
This is the ‘Mental Cab’ in top form, although we have a slight concern about the alcohol level and attendant
raisiny/pruny hints. There’s a mass of sweet raspberry, mulberry and blueberry aromas welded to the fine cedary
oak, and starting to mellow nicely. The palate is smooth and finely textured, deliciously flavoured and balanced,
although it’s probably not one of the longer-ageing vintages. It goes with aged cheeses. Quality ***** Value
***1/2 The Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide
This wine has a complex nose, displaying dark fruits and menthol, an attractive ripe tannin texture and a mediumweight palate feel. The fruit is still restrained by oak, which detracts from the wine’s immediate appeal. "I like the
palate weight but it really needs to be paired with food," said Diana (tasting panel). The structure suggests it will
improve with more time in the bottle. 17.5 points (silver) Scoop Magazine, Winter 2004
7
Download