20.01.2006 St. Vincent 1. Rødvin Rondo 2003 Bornholm Danmark 12% Pris: DKK 499,00 Vingård Lille Gadegård Jesper Paulsen Søndre Landevej 63 3720 Aakirkeby Tlf.: 56 97 80 63 Email: a7@a7.dk Rondo 2003 dufter tiltrækkende, sollyset må kæmpe med farven, så overvældende rød og sort som en fuldfed italiener. Syrebalancen er på plads, tørheden klar uden at være smældende skarp, og den virker hverken pri-mitiv eller rå. Der er brombær, peber, lakrids og lidt læder i smagen, og den holder længe i ganen. Den kan drikkes nu og vil udvikle sig ved yderligere lagring. Vinen kan nydes til kraftig mad, der også er tilberedt med omtanke og følsomhed. Desuden giver fetaost og oliven sammen med vinen gode oplevelser på helhed og samhørighed. Pris: DKK 499,00 Historien Lille Gadegård startede vinproduktionen i 1995. De første år var det jordbærvin, men da Danmark i år 2000 blev vinland, blev der plantet druer. I oktober 2002 høstedes 1500kg druer - som blev til 900 liter rødvin. I dag har Lille Gadegård 2,9 ha tilplantet med druer - formentlig Danmarks største areal med vin. Årgang 2002 sælges ikke mere. Der er få flasker af årgang 2003 tilbage, og salget af årgang 2004 frigives 1. august. 1 2. Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas 2001 46786 Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas 2001 Luis Pato Beiras Interior, Portugal 100% Baga Kroner 190,10 89 poeng Det portugisiske vinhus – Per Bakker Agency 2001 var en superårgang i Beiras. Herlig stram vin med duft av krekling og blåbær, lær og tjære. Tett, stram og kompakt vin med god syre og lang tørr finish. Deilig nå for de som tåler en trøkk, og perfekt for de som kan legge den vekk i fem til 10 år. Vinene er laget av den notoriske vanskelige, men tidvis fantastiske Baga-druen. Prøv den til kraftig oksekjøtt, lam og geit. Baga paradokset Baga er en druetype som både er beryktet og genierklært. På sitt verste gir den beske viner helt uten frukt, men på sitt beste er dette kompromissløse og stramme matviner som tåler lang lagring. Baga kan kanskje best sammenlignes med klassiske italienske druetyper som nebbiolo, sangiovese og aglianico. De beste bagavinene som Vinha Pan og Vinha Barosso fra Luis Pato burde være obligatoriske i alle seriøse vinkjellere. Luis Pato- den nye vinen i portugal Luis Pato arvet vingården etter sin far João Pato som var den store pioneren i området. Luis innførte likefullt nye tanker og teknikker. Den aller viktigste er at han begynte å kutte vekk begynnende drueklaser om sommeren. Det store problemet med Baga i det relativt kjølige klimaet i Beiras er at druene har vanskelig for å modnes. Grønn innhøsting er løsningen. Mindre druer på vinstokken gir bedre modning. Derfor laget jeg god vin selv i det vanskelige året 1996, forklarer Luis Pato. Han innførte også franske eiketønner istedenfor gamle store eikeliggere av nøttetre. Han vil likevel ikke lage viner som smaker for mye eik. Derfor er fatene nesten tre ganger så store som vanlig. Den mest kjente og mest tilgjengelige bagavinen fra Luis Pato er imidlertid Vinhas Velhas. Dette er en blanding av viner fra gamle vinstokker i flere vinmarker. En klassiker. Luis Pato selv liker å sammenligne en gammel vin av bagadruen med gamle viner av nebbiolo (Barolo og Barbaresco) og pinot noir-druen fra Burgund. Vi synes kanskje at baga minner mest om Aglianico fra Campania – vis man først må sammenligne. Alle rødvinene er laget mest mulig naturlig på tross av at Luis Pato egentlig er kjemiker. Han tilsetter ikke kultivert gjær, praktiserer forsiktig ekstraksjon i ti dager og tapper enkeltvinmarkene ufiltrert. Vinene hans har en stram karakter med mye ekstrakt og litt lite duft som unge. Jo mer moden bagadrue, dess mørkere og mer bjørnebærpreget blir aromabildet i vinene hans. 2 3. Jose L. Ferrer Reserva 2000 Binissalem, Malorca 80% Montenegro, 10% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon 13% Ein kräftiger, komplexer Wein mit kraftvollem Körper und Noten von Früchten, Gewürzen und Trüffeln. (1999) In 1931 'José L. Ferrer Ramonell ' founded the bodega which still keeps his name today. With this a long tradition of a wine farmer family was continued - both grandfathers won a medal on the 'Universal exhibition in Barcelona' for the extraordinary quality of their wines. José L. Ferrer has a very specialized and fundamental knowledge in wine growing which he got from his studies in France. The vineyards of Binissalem are right in the heart of the island Majorca, the Tramuntanya mountains protect against the cold winds from the north. The mild clima in Mallorca and the ideal earth always guarantee a good harvest. Origin and quality of the wines are written down in the official mark of origin 'Binissalem - Mallorca'. Already since the Roman times, about 2.000 years ago, these noble wines enjoy a special repute. The vineyards of more than 70 hectares with its fertile ground, also the grapes from the farmers of the neighbourhood ensure a total production of 1.000.000 bottles per year. The special features and personality of the Binissalem wines are specified through the various grapes which are used for the production. Through the mixture of the sweet and flavourful "Manto Negro" and the smooth "Callet", extraordinary red wines are produced, which ripen in american and french oak barrels. These barrels are stored in a huge, cool cellar of the Bodega, like the bottles of the Reserve wines. From the white 'Moll' grape a unique and fruity white wine is produced. Over the years the Bodegas José L. Ferrer were extended more and more to combine the traditional way of production with the latest modern technology. This ensures the same accurateness which were used already by the founder of this family company. The famoust wines of the Bodega: (all with the official label of origin: "Denominacio D'Origen Binissalem") J.L. Ferrer "Gran Reserva" J.L. Ferrer "Reserva" J.L. Ferrer "Crianza" J.L. Ferrer "Blanc de Blancs" J.L. Ferrer "Viña Veritas" J.L. Ferrer "Rosado" J.L. Ferrer "Autentico" 3 4. Pujanza 2001 Rioja, Spania 100% Tempranillo 14% Robert Parker: 91/100 Jean-Michel Deluc: http://www.uk.chateauonline.com/pages/gate.asp?mainurl=/pages/fichevin.asp?idproduct%3D17605% 26subprodid%3D24353 Our opinion A classical, yet imposing wine, due to its exaggerated fineness and proundness. A wonderful compromise between the roundness and maturity of the substance, and the incisive freshness of the structure. A wine of outstanding dimension, quality and complexity. Best when decanted before serving, in order to fully appreciate its luxurious texture and fine, fruity character. Best kept for a while and served with game dishes. Description This domaine, situated in Finca Valdepoleo and covering approximately 15 hectares, is one of the spearheads of this prestigious Rioja appellation. This top of the line cuvée is made from 100% Tempranillo and is matured for 16 months in French oak barrels. Tips on service • Conservation: ready now but will improve • At its best in: 2012 • To decant: 1 hour • Serve at 17° Food and wine matching Partridge served with cabbage, savoury rabbit Garenne, salmi of pigeon, tournedos of beef with foie gras, Cantal, Mimolette. Tasting notes By Jean Michel Deluc : Master Sommelier Eye - A ruby coloured wine of good intensity, with glints of violet and slightly darker shades of mauve towards the edge of the glass. This wine is bright, limpid and displays good concentration. Nose - Very fine, discreet notes are immediately present on the nose, followed by a more obvious aromatic framework of ripe fruits, including cherries, sloe berries and wild strawberries. These are later succeeded by discrete notes of barrel ageing, of pepper, vanilla and cedar wood. Palate - The attack on the palate is delicately soft and smooth, with a decidedly square structure on the mid-palate. The wine has a refreshing acidity and the tannins are still wonderfully pungent, lending incredible dimension to the wine. Fruity flavours that were not found in the nose are found here, accompanied by a fresh liqourice finish. 4 5. Borgognot Barolo Riserva 1990 Italia 14% The village of Barolo is placed in the heart of the Langhe, the most prestigious wine-area in Piedmont. Its origin is very old but its name appeared for the first time in a document dated 1200. Barolo is situated in a valley surrounded by beautiful and harmonious hills covered by vineyards that origin the great wine Barolo. Its between these hills and these vineyards that, around 1720, Borgogno’s family sat the farm called “BORGOGNOT”. Even in that period the family was already the owner of some vineyards in Barolo. In 1950 Lodovico Borgogno, actual owner, introduced new methods of work looking for top quality results in the vineyards, in the production of wines and in their marketing. The passion for this land, these hills and vineyards, infected also Virna, Lodovico’s daughter, oenologist, who follows the father in all the different ports of the production with only an easy aim: the growth of the wine “Barolo” and of the other wines of this area, trying to put in result all their characteristics through which you could discover the thousand secrets of our land. The farm owns approximately 10 hectares of vineyards for the production of the Langa’s typical wines such as: Dolcetto doc Alba, Barbera doc Alba, Nebbiolo doc Alba. 1990 Borgogno Lodovico Barolo Riserva (Italy, Piedmont) Cork was half saturated. open and drunk without decanting at a byob restaurant. poor lighting so hard to get a good visual. But the nose was unmistakeable, heavy tabacco, with leather. roses and chocolate. good if not too light in the mouth. well integrated with vertually no tannins. still srtong fruit. good balance. this was a nice barolo showing some complexity with no obvious faults but nothing too capivating either. Vintage Chart: 2000 1999 1998 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 1991 1990 1989 1988 1987 1986 1985 1984 1983 1982 5 6. Massena – The Moonlight Run 2002 Barossa Valley Grenache, Shiraz, Cinsaut, Matoro 14,5% Back in 1999 Dan Standish and Jaysen Collins (above) were working the vintage at Taylor's in the Clare Valley, stuck on the midnight shift. So when they started their own venture together in 2000, they named one of their wines 'The Moonlight Run' after the nightly journey they made to the Clare. There's also a story behind another of their wines, the 11th Hour Shiraz, which is from a patch of old vines in Greenock that were about to be rooted up until they swooped for the grapes - yes, you guessed it - at the 11th hour. I don't know the story behind the howling dog Durif, but then this dark, extreme wine is only made in tiny amounts. Currently, Massena isn't a big outfit - running at around 1000 cases - but it is beginning to make waves. 1000 cases are made, mainly from old vineyards in the western ridge/Greenock areas. The wines are quite striking and modern, but not overly so. In common with almost all of these new Barossa outfits, there is no physical winery. Jaysen and Dan have barrels in a couple of locations, one of which is in a barn that belongs to a grower (where I tasted), the other of which isn't accessible at the weekend (this heavily fortified location is where Torbreck store most of their wines). My notes here are confined to just a few barrel samples, therefore, although I've tried finished Massena wines on several occasions Rated: 90 Deep medium ruby. Superripe aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and roasted herbs, plus a porty suggestion of maple syrup. Fat and very rich, with thick, tactile flavors of roasted plum, raspberry and chocolate. A large-scaled wine in a Southern Rhone style. I might have rated this even higher but for a slight harshness to its tannins. Massena The Moonlight Run 2002 $330 per btl http://www.altayawines.com/ns_04_05_p1_3.htm Grape varietal: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Cinsault AWL “92 pts ... Dark garnet. Sweet aromas of earth, game, oak and pepper. It is full-bodied and loaded with blackberry liqueur, smoke, charcoal, pepper, cassis, and licorice. Sweet tannins and low acidity can be found in the finish. This riveting effort can be drunk now, but promises to age well for a decade or more." 6 7. Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Margaret River, Western Australia 15% Cape Mentelle, Western Australia, Margaret River, B44460, kr 299,90 / 75 cl Denne vinen er produsentens flaggskip. Kompleks duft av solbær, eukalyptus, anis, lær og pepper. Fyldig og moden smak, flott syrlighet og behagelig tanninsnerp i ettersmaken. Cape Mentelle Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 http://www.boccaccio.com.au/prod898.htm Taking on the mantle of maturity, a bouquet of violets and brambley fruit complexed with brandy snaps, vanilla and tobacco. The wine evolves over time to an array of aromas that let your imagination run wild. Dense and luscious palate, which is offering immediate appeal now but will continue to develop beautifully for years to come. Vineyard The fruit sourced for this wine comes from our oldest vines planted on the estate between 1970-72. The vineyard is located 8 kilometres from the ocean, with an elevation of 80 metres and a south-west aspect. The vines grow on gravel laterite soils derived from decomposed ironstone over gravelly, clay sub - soils. Vine spacing is 2200 vines/hectare with all vines vertically trained with judicious shoot and leaf removal carried out during late summer to open the canopy to sunlight. All vines are cane pruned with between 30 and 40 buds left on each vine. Trickle irrigation is installed and used sparingly, combined with a springtime composting to maintain vine health and ensure that physiologically ripe grapes are harvested. Season A mild yet wet winter with fairly consistent rains continuing till the end of October and cool to mild temperatures continuing to November ensured a relatively late budburst and flowering. By early summer, with the continuation of some mild to very warm temperatures and an end to the rain, the vines got a kick along. Ideal ripening conditions prevailed for the rest of the season due to optimal photosynthesis conditions. Weather was characterised by a lack of excessive heat and mild night time temperatures ensuring the vineyards provided fully ripe and flavoursome fruit. A little scare in early March by cyclone Steve produced only 7 mm of rain and provided brief respite during a rather hectic harvest schedule. Fine and mild weather continued until the last grapes were harvested by 12th April. Another excellent Marri blossom during February and March provided plenty of nectar for the silvereyes, which diminished their hunger for grapes. Harvest Two batches of Cabernet were harvested from the estate block on the 29th March and the 5th April. The sugar levels between the batches ranged from 25.0 to 26.1 brix and acidities between 6.2g/L, pH3.62 and 7.1g/L, pH 3.52. Average yield from the old vines was a moderate 7.6 tonne / hectare. A small amount (7%) of Cabernet franc from our Trinders vineyard harvested 20th March was used to lift the aromatics, harvested at 26 brix 5.5 g/L and ph 3.68. Vinification Fruit arriving at the winery is checked before it is de-stemmed and lightly crushed so that high proportions of whole berries are conveyed to the fermenter. The must was left to macerate for a day before seeding with neutral strain of yeast. Early vigorous extraction is followed by a gentler pump over regime as the ferment proceeds. Cabernet stays on skins for up to 28 days depending on the health and ripeness of the skins. Once dry, the wine is inoculated for malo-lactic fermentation. Then racked twice before going into barrels of which 75% of the barrels are new in late May. The oak for the barrels originates exclusively from the forests of Nevers, Allier and Troncais and coopered in France. The wine underwent periodic barrel to barrel rackings and regular toppings with a final assemblage done in spring of '00. The early blending allows time for a harmonious marriage of the components to occur. After 18 months in barrel the wine was blended together and coarsely filtered into bottle, mid December 2001. This is the ‘Mental Cab’ in top form, although we have a slight concern about the alcohol level and attendant raisiny/pruny hints. There’s a mass of sweet raspberry, mulberry and blueberry aromas welded to the fine cedary oak, and starting to mellow nicely. The palate is smooth and finely textured, deliciously flavoured and balanced, although it’s probably not one of the longer-ageing vintages. It goes with aged cheeses. Quality ***** Value ***1/2 The Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide This wine has a complex nose, displaying dark fruits and menthol, an attractive ripe tannin texture and a mediumweight palate feel. The fruit is still restrained by oak, which detracts from the wine’s immediate appeal. "I like the palate weight but it really needs to be paired with food," said Diana (tasting panel). The structure suggests it will improve with more time in the bottle. 17.5 points (silver) Scoop Magazine, Winter 2004 7