Central Wooded Downs
Overview
From Arundel to Rowlands Castle, ancient woodlands shroud unspoilt chalk downland.
The scenic landscape of open hilltops, rare yew forests and wetlands shelters grand
country houses alongside quiet medieval villages.
Short copy
From Arundel to Rowlands Castle, the rolling chalk downland is covered with swathes of
woodland and distinctive beech and yew hangers cling to the steepest slopes. Open
hilltops give widescreen views over vast fields while the woods and coombes feel secret,
remote and far away from modern life. River valley floodplains create wet woodland,
water meadows and open water, providing habitats to many species of wild birds.
The landscape remains relatively unspoilt and undeveloped, thanks to the vast country
estates created in the 18th century and still important today, including Goodwood, West
Dean and Arundel Castle.
Long copy
From Arundel to Rowlands Castle the rolling chalk downland slopes gently southwards,
large areas covered with oak, birch and holly woodlands. Distinctive hangers of beech
and yew trees cling to the steepest hillsides. On open summits like The Trundle, an Iron
Age hill fort, and Harting Down nature reserve you feel on top of the world, looking down
over ancient woods and fields across the coastal plain and the sea to the Isle of Wight.
It’s a quintessentially English scene - William Blake is said to have been inspired by
views from the Earl of March pub at Lavant when he wrote about ‘England’s green and
pleasant land’ in Jerusalem. From the fresh air and open skies of the hill tops, plunge
down into the sheltering, enclosed woods and dry valley coombes furrowing the slopes.
The Lavant and Ems rivers carve out deep valleys in the chalk and flow through
floodplains of wet woodland, water meadows and open water, home to many species of
wild birds. At Kingley Vale nature reserve the chalk grassland attracts dozens of
butterflies, and you can see a grove of veteran yew trees that are among the oldest
living things in Britain.
Away from the roads it is peaceful and quiet here. Medieval villages scatter the slopes,
relatively unspoilt by modern development thanks to the vast country estates
established on the downland in the 18th century. This rich legacy includes grand country
houses in picturesque landscaped parklands, such as Arundel Castle, Uppark and
Goodwood House.
Central Wooded Downs – Special Qualities
Landscape and views
This area is dominated by vast fields dotted with ancient woodlands, such as the
Charlton Forest near Cocking, one of the largest beech plantations in Europe, Eartham
Wood near Chichester and the vast Houghton Forest near Arundel.
The National Trust-owned Drovers Estate near Singleton has been a sporting estate since
medieval times. Hidden away amid the woodlands, rolling pastures and gentle valleys of
the South Downs, it feels secret and timeless. From the highest point on Hat Hill there
are panoramic views of Goodwood racecourse, Singleton village and the Roman city of
Chichester.
There are more wide views from the Trundle – an Iron Age hillfort on top of St Roche’s
Hill near Chichester, just above Goodwood Race Course. From here on a clear day there
are panoramic views across the cathedral city and Chichester Harbour, and then further
west to Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight.
Wildlife and Habitats
Harting Down nature reserve is a large area of ancient chalk downland with rare juniper
scrub. In the grassland grow pyramidal orchids and wild herbs, attracting Grizzled
Skipper butterflies, the Blue Carpenter Bee, and the woodland areas are home to shadeloving creatures like the rare Cheese Snail. Kingley Vale nature reserve is famous for its
grove of ancient yew trees, among the oldest living things in Britain.
Although famous for its fine Cedars and Cork Oaks, Goodwood is best known for the
Beech Forest surrounding the estate. Some of the oldest trees at Goodwood are the
Cedars of Lebanon, which were planted in 1761, at the request of the third Duke of
Richmond, who introduced species from many parts of the world.
Farming and food
Two farmers’ markets in the area are held in Chichester on the first and third Fridays of
the month and Slindon at the Coronation Hall on the fourth Thursday of each month.
Both feature local produce, from meat, fish, cheese and eggs to preserves, bread, plants
and flowers in season. At the heart of Slindon village is the community-run village shop
and cafe, The Forge, which stocks a wide range of goods. The village is famous for its
pumpkin festival in October, featuring vibrant, themed displays of over 50 varieties of
pumpkins and squashes.
Harting village stores in the picturesque village of South Harting is community owned
and run and stocks a variety of local produce including meat, eggs, bread, honey and
seasonal fruit and vegetables.
Close to Chichester in the pretty village of Funtington, Grange Farm shop sells fruit
straight from the farm’s orchards, and fruit and vegetables from other local farms and
nurseries too, along with cheese, bread, cakes and lots more goodies.
The annual Grow! Cook! Eat! Festival in October is West Dean Gardens’ very own
harvest festival, celebrating culinary delights and the estate’s rural activities.
Activities and learning
Passing through this area is The Monarch’s Way, a 615 mile, waymarked long distance
footpath following the route taken by King Charles II in 1651 after his defeat at the
Battle of Worcester. It starts in Worcester and leads south, taking in Stansted Park, The
Trundle, Goodwood, Eartham, Houghton and Arundel in the Park, and on to Shoreham
on the coast.
Home of the Dukes of Richmond, Goodwood has long been a sporting estate and is
famous for horse racing and motor racing.
The Weald and Downland Open Air Museum has an incredible collection of over 50
traditional buildings from the 13th to the 19th centuries, all rescued from demolition, in a
beautiful downland site near Singleton.
Heritage and culture
The great landed estates with their grand houses and 18th century landscaped parks add
to the picturesque views in this area of the Park. Once a medieval hunting lodge,
Stansted House evokes the atmosphere of Edwardian life in a great house, both upstairs
and down. In a tranquil downland setting, Uppark is an elegant 18 th century house with
Georgian interiors. On the Goodwood Estate, the Cass Sculpture Foundation displays 80
specially commissioned monumental sculptures by international artists – all for sale – in
an idyllic woodland site.
In the Roman city of Chichester, Pallant House Gallery has one of the best collections of
20th century art in the UK, from Surrealist fantasies by Magritte and Dali to post-war
modernist works by Henry Moore and Lucien Freud and Pop Art by Peter Blake and David
Hockney. The Novium museum’s collections show the history of the area, including
Neolithic finds from The Trundle, Roman pottery and unusual fossils. To find out more
about Roman life, visit Bignor Roman Villa, famous for its fabulous, intricate mosaics.
RAF Tangmere was an important military air base in the two world wars, and the Military
Aviation Museum presents the history of the base. Displays include aircraft from Spitfires
to Westland helicopters, and you can even have a go at flying a Spitfire yourself – on the
flight simulator of course!
Towns and villages
This area has many attractive villages to explore, such as unspoilt Slindon, set on a
slope of the downs and the estate village for Slindon House (now a school). Singleton is
a pretty village in the Lavant valley near Goodwood racecourse. South Harting is in a
beautiful setting below Harting Down and its copper green church spire is a local
landmark.
Just outside the Park, compact and intimate with Roman walls and a medieval heart, the
city of Chichester is made for walking. There’s history on every corner, from the Tudor
Market Cross to Georgian terraces. There are stylish restaurants, organic cafes and
gastro pubs, and you can see new drama and classic revivals at the acclaimed
Chichester Festival Theatre.
Near Chichester is Fishbourne Roman Palace, dating from AD75-80 and housing the
largest collection of in-situ mosaic floors in Britain. Highlights include the spectacular
Cupid on a Dolphin mosaic and the Medusa.
Did You Know
Walk on a Roman road
Walk in the footsteps of Roman soldiers along Stane Street, the Saxon name for the
Roman road. The paved road was built in around 70AD, linking Noviomagus Reginorum
(Chichester) with Londinium (London) in just three straight lines, a remarkable feat of
engineering. In this area it runs from Hardham to Bignor and through Eartham Woods,
and in places is easy to see, particularly in Eartham Woods, where the long distance trail
The Monarch’s Way follows the route. On Bignor Hill look out for the finger post with
Latin names, pointing to Noviomagus and Londinium.
In the Autumn, visit the Slindon Estate to see the famous display of pumpkins in all its
orange glory. Hilaire Belloc spent his later childhood in Slindon. His book The Four Men
chronicles his journey from Robertsbridge in the Weald across the Downs to South
Harting.
Writer HG Wells spent much of his childhood at Uppark, where his mother was
housekeeper in the late 19th century.
The great detective Sherlock Holmes retired to the South Downs. His retirement is
mentioned in three short stories by Arthur Conan-Doyle – The Blanched Soldier, The
Lion’s Mane and His Final Bow.
What they said
William Blake
“England’s green and pleasant land”
The words of this poem were later used in the popular hymn Jerusalem
Central Wooded Downs – main image extended caption
Seen from Harting Hill, South Harting seems folded into the Downs, its distinctive greencopper church steeple a local landmark. Nearby is Harting Down, an ancient chalk
downland nature reserve with fine views.