Christmas in Vienna Weihnachtszeit in Wien

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Status August 2015
Christmas in Vienna
Baubles, beeswax candles, punch, cookies and plenty of inspirational gift ideas – there’s no
better way to get in the festive spirit than with a stroll around Vienna’s Advent markets and
through city streets glittering with festive lights. And with so much to choose from, there is
something to suit every taste.
Vienna’s Christmas markets have enough to tempt even the most died-in-the-wool Yuletide grump.
The city’s Food Inspection and Market Authority recorded 21 large, permanent Advent markets
with around 1,100 stalls in 2014, most of which are open from mid-November until Christmas. The
figure does not include the countless small temporary markets, charity stalls, and punch stands. It
isn’t only tourists that are attracted by the profusion of Advent markets and pretty Christmas lights
– locals enjoy visiting the markets for a mug of punch with colleagues after work, or to do some gift
shopping with friends. According to a 2013 study by the Economic Chamber, the average
Viennese visits an Advent market three times in the run-up to Christmas.
With such a wide variety of markets to choose from, there is something for everyone.
Traditionalists make a beeline for the large Advent markets in the city center, such as the
Christmas Market on Rathausplatz set against the imposing backdrop of City Hall, or the Old
Viennese Christmas Market on Freyung. The Culture and Christmas Market at Schönbrunn Palace
and the Christmas Village in front of the Belvedere Palace have a distinctly imperial feel, as does
the Christmas Village on Maria-Theresien-Platz, located between the Natural History Museum and
the Kunsthistorisches Museum. For anyone looking for beautiful handcrafted artworks, the Art
Advent Arts & Crafts Market on Karlsplatz, Spittelberg Christmas Market and Am Hof Advent
Market are the places to go. The WeihnachtsQuartier in the MuseumsQuartier are magnets for
fans of designer goods, while foodies will be in their element at the Advent markets on
Mahlerstrasse and in the courtyard of specialist tea store Haas & Haas. Detailed information can
be found in the list of Christmas markets below.
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For all this diversity, Vienna’s Advent markets also have plenty in common: a wide selection of
products ranging from colorful Christmas decorations to arts and crafts and unique gift ideas, and a
mouthwatering choice of food and hot drinks, including spiced teas, drinking chocolate, mulled
wine and punch, as well as hearty snacks and sweet treats.
A festival of light
In the evenings in the lead-up to Christmas, the Advent markets and beautiful decorative lights
transform Vienna into a glittering sea of color – creating some popular photo opportunities for
tourists. As the festive season approaches 40 or so shopping streets around the city are
illuminated by decorations of all shapes and sizes, including giant chandeliers on Graben and huge
red globes on Rotenturmstrasse. When the lights are officially switched on at the end of November,
2.5 million bulbs threaded along 20 kilometers of streets create an unforgettable Yuletide setting.
The majority of the city’s Christmas lights use environmentally-friendly LED and energy-saving
lamps.
The Christmas tree consisting entirely of lights that adorns the Ringturm office block at
Schottenring is a real highlight – it stands 60 meters and extends to the 19th floor of the building.
Vienna’s Christmas lights have become an important part of the city’s economy and tourism
industry – in a 2012 study by the Vienna Economic Chamber, 98 percent of visitors to the capital
spoke of the lights in glowing terms.
Music during Advent
Music has a special part to play in Vienna during Advent. The International Advent Singing Festival
at City Hall brings together choirs from all over the world for performances of gospel and folk music,
and Christmas songs. Traditional and international Christmas melodies are on the program at the
Konzerthaus, with big-name opera singers taking to the stage for the Christmas in Vienna gala
concert (www.christmasinvienna.com). St. Stephen's Cathedral plays host to Advent concerts in
the weeks leading up to Christmas (www.kunstkultur.com), as does the Minoritenkirche
(www.minoritenkirche-wien.info). And the Trompetenzauber series in the baroque Annakirche
church, also in the historic old town, presents a range of music from classic Viennese pieces to
international Christmas carols, all played on the trumpet. Festive trumpet recitals can also be
enjoyed at the Malteserkirche. Meanwhile, the Vienna Boys’ Choir can be heard at their concert
hall, MuTh (www.muth.at). Over at the Palais Lobkowitz, the Clemencic Consort will be performing
a series of Baroque-themed concerts on period instruments in the opulent Eroica Hall
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(www.clemencic.at). Songs and music from choirs and brass bands will also fill the air at many
Christmas markets, including on Freyung and at Schönbrunn Palace.
Advent traditions
Although the feast of St Nicholas falls during Advent, on December 6, it is not technically part of
the Christmas festivities. Known locally as Nikolo, St Nicholas was a bishop in Myra in Asia Minor
in the first half of the fourth century. His feast day is a religious holiday for many denominations of
the Christian faith. On December 5, children in Austria eagerly await Nikolo’s arrival, as well as the
gifts such as sweets, nuts, apples and dates he brings with him. He also puts in appearances at
family celebrations and kindergartens, dressed in the white and gold or white and red vestments of
a bishop, wearing a miter and carrying a crosier. In the past St Nicholas was accompanied by
Krampus, a devilish figure that would frighten children with the rattling of a chain. Today, though,
the saint usually appears on his own.
Children count down the days until Christmas on their Advent calendars. Covered in pretty wintertime designs, the calendar has 24 small numbered doors that the little ones open every morning
from December 1-24 to reveal pictures, sayings, sweets or other surprises. An Advent wreath is
part and parcel of the build-up to Christmas. It is traditionally woven from fir branches and
decorated with four candles, although more modern designs are also available. Every Sunday in
Advent one of the candles is lit – one on the first Sunday, two on the second, and finally all four on
the last Sunday before Christmas. Baking is a typical Advent activity, and traditional favorites
include Christstollen (a loaf-shaped cake packed with dried fruits), Zimtsterne (star-shaped cookies
with cinnamon), Vanillekipferl (small vanilla flavored crescents made of shortbread and chopped
and ground nuts), Anisbögen (aniseed flavored cookies), and Lebkuchen seasoned with fragrant
spices. Delicious Christmas cookies are on sale at the various Advent markets, and in the city’s
patisseries and confectioners.
Christmas trees and festive food
Christmas trees are another festive tradition in Vienna, and evergreens such as firs and spruces
decorated with candles, baubles, lights, angels and tinsel are put up at Advent markets and in
churches in the capital in the run-up to Christmas. The annual Christmas market on Rathausplatz
is home to Vienna’s tallest Christmas tree, usually standing around 30 meters. Residents of the city
normally put up trees at home shortly before Christmas. The colorfully wrapped presents under the
tree are opened on Christmas Eve (December 24).
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Just before or after the gifts are unwrapped most families sit down to a sumptuous Christmas meal.
The menu is a matter of family tradition and often includes fish – especially carp – or goose, as
well as cold dishes and fondue. It goes without saying that a plate of Christmas cookies will appear
on the table at some stage. After the festive season Christmas tree collection points are set up
around the city. The trees are used as feedstock at a biomass power plant.
Churchgoers celebrate Midnight Mass late on Christmas Eve. Many churches put up cribs
recreating the Nativity scene from the stable in Bethlehem, complete with figurines of Baby Jesus,
Mary and Joseph, the Three Kings, as well as a donkey and other animals. The most charming
Nativity cribs can be found in the crypt at the Peterskirche church in the first district, while each
year the Lainz Game Reserve sets up a crib featuring life-size wooden figures (Lainzer Tor
entrance).
On Christmas Day (December 25) most families spend the day at home and enjoy Christmas lunch
together, and St Stephen’s Day (December 26) is traditionally a time for visiting relatives. Both
days are public holidays. Shortly before the turn of the year Vienna springs back to life again as
thousands of partygoers hit the New Year's Eve Trail. At midnight the giant Pummerin bell at St.
Stephen’s Cathedral rings in the New Year – and then the countdown to next Advent begins!
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Christmas markets in Vienna 2015 (selected highlights by district)
Christmas Market and Magic of Advent
Nov 13-Dec 26, 2015: daily 10am-10pm, Dec 24 10am-7pm
Rathausplatz and Rathauspark, 1010 Vienna, www.christkindlmarkt.at
The Christmas Market and Magic of Advent on Rathausplatz and adjoining park is Vienna’s largest.
Beautifully decorated trees and some 150 colorful stalls conjure up the romance and nostalgia of
the season. Stands tempt visitors with sweets, sausages, all sorts of snacks and hot punch or
mulled wine. A huge Christmas tree adorned with hundreds of environmentally friendly LED lights
takes pride of place in front of City Hall. The tree is presented by one of Austria’s provinces as a
gift to the capital. Brass bands from all over the country perform under the tree daily from 8-8.30pm.
Choosing a Christ Child from a host of young hopefuls is a long-standing tradition at the market.
Kids love to have their photo taken with the lucky recipient of the honor, who the children hope will
make their Christmas wishes come true. The Post Office in the Clouds is the place to send
season’s greetings using special postage and printing stamps, and in the Christmas Workshop the
little ones can bake biscuits and do handicrafts under expert guidance. The Christmas Market and
Magic of Advent attracts around three million visitors each year.
Old Viennese Christmas Market
Nov 20-Dec 23, 2015: daily 10am-9pm
Freyung, 1010 Vienna, www.altwiener-markt.at
Freyung is one of Vienna’s most beautiful squares, and Christmas markets have been taking place
there since 1772. Today visitors can treat themselves to a waffle and a mug of hot apple must,
punch or hot chocolate while they peruse a fine selection of arts and crafts. The stands offer a wide
choice of Christmas tree decorations, nativity scene sets, glass decorations, ceramics, basketware
and toys. Advent music every afternoon, weekends: arts and crafts demonstrations, Mon-Fri from
10am: children’s activities.
Christmas Village and New Year’s Village on Maria-Theresien-Platz
Nov 18-Dec 26, 2015: daily 11am-9.30pm, Fri and Sat until 10pm, Dec 24 11am-4pm, Dec 25-26
11am-7pm; Dec 27-30, 2015 11am-7.30pm, Dec 31, 2015 11am-midnight, Jan 1, 2016 midnight2am, www.weihnachtsdorf.at, www.silvesterdorf.at
Maria-Theresien-Platz, 1010 Vienna, www.weihnachtsdorf.at
The square between the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Natural History Museum is home to
the Christmas Village on Maria-Theresien-Platz, where illuminated Christmas trees and music from
gospel choirs and Austrian brass bands makes for the perfect festive setting. Christmas gifts on the
market stalls include wooden and glass handicrafts and jewelry, watercolors and oil paintings.
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Food and drink stands serve up seasonal favorites like hot punch and mulled wine. After the
Christmas Village closes, From Dec 27, 2015-Jan 1, 2016 the New Year’s Village will take its place
on Maria-Theresien-Platz.
Am Hof Christmas Market
Nov 13-Dec 23, 2015: Mon-Thu 11am-8pm, Fri-Sun and public holidays 10am-8pm
Am Hof Advent Market, 1010 Vienna, www.weihnachtsmarkt-hof.at
Among the wide selection of arts and crafts on offer at the Am Hof Advent Market are traditional
ceramics, jewelry, silk paintings, woodwork, mirrors and handmade soaps.
Christmas market on Stephansplatz
Nov 13-Dec 26, 2015: daily 11am-9pm, Dec 24 11am-4pm, Dec 25+26 11am-7pm
Stephansplatz (by Churhausgasse), 1010 Vienna, www.weihnachtsmarkt-stephansplatz.at
At the Christmas market outside St. Stephen’s cathedral in the heart of the old town beautifully
decorated stalls specialize in high quality arts and crafts.
K.u.k. Christmas Market on Michaelerplatz
Nov 14-Dec 26, 2015, 9am-8pm daily, Dec 24 until 6pm
Michaelerplatz, 1010 Vienna, www.kuk-weihnachtsmarkt.at
The white stands at the K.u.k. Christmas Market on Michaelerplatz in front of the Hofburg carry
primarily Austrian products including candies, tin figures, handmade cribs and much more besides.
Gourmet market next to the Vienna State Opera
Nov 13-Dec 31, 2015: daily 11am-9pm
Mahlerstrasse, 1010 Vienna, www.haas-haas.at
Up-market tea store Haas & Haas puts on this Christmas food market under the glass-covered
promenade on Mahlerstrasse. Opposite the Opera house and right next to the Ringstrassen
Galerien mall, the 15 stands tempt passers-by with their cheeses, wines, charcuterie, marzipan
and nougat, Austrian specialties, and hot punch.
Haas & Haas Winter in the City
Nov 13-Dec 24, 2015, 4-9pm daily
Courtyard of Haas & Haas tea store, Stephansplatz 4, 1010 Vienna, www.haas-haas.at
Purveyors of fine teas Haas & Haas hold a cozy Winter market in the courtyard of their
Stephansplatz store. Visitors can warm their hands in front of braziers and take shelter from the
cold in stylish wooden huts. Take your pick from handmade cookies, specialty teas, sausages from
the charcoal grill, home-made punch and mulled wine, soups, roast chestnuts and Speck (the local
smoked bacon).
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Winter Market on Riesenradplatz
Nov 21, 2015-Jan 6, 2016: Mon-Fri 12-10pm, Sat-Sun and public holidays 11am-10pm,
Dec 31: 12pm-2am
Riesenradplatz, Prater, 1020 Vienna, www.wintermarkt.at
This Winter Market in the Prater offers lots of fun for all the family with a kids’ winter train ride, the
giddy heights of the chain carousel and live music from pop to soul. All accompanied by warming
Christmas drinks and tasty snacks.
Belvedere Palace Advent Market
Nov 20-Dec 23, 2015: Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-9pm
Upper Belvedere, Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27, 1030 Vienna, www.weihnachtsdorf.at
At the Christmas market in front of the splendid Baroque Belvedere Palace around 50 merrily
decorated stalls offer traditional handicrafts and other, more contemporary gifts from Austria’s
federal provinces and neighboring countries. Visitors can warm themselves up with hot punch and
mulled wine, and enjoy a sausage or local favorite like Schinkenfleckerln (a hearty pasta and ham
dish). Brass bands, gospel choirs and other ensembles provide entertainment, and there’s a
vintage carousel and mini railway for the kids.
Art Advent – arts & crafts market on Karlsplatz
Nov 20-Dec 23, 2015: daily 12-8pm
Karlsplatz, 1040 Vienna, www.artadvent.at
Beautifully crafted creations from over 70 designer-makers exhibiting stained-glass ware, musical
instruments, jewelry, silk paintings, woolen hats and scarves, natural cosmetics and lots more. For
the kids there’s a workshop where they can make their own Christmas gifts, a train ride, and hay
bales to lark around on.
Pink Christmas in Vienna
Nov 20-Dec 23, 2015, Mon-Fri 4pm-10pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays 2-10pm
Naschmarkt, next to the Kettenbrückengasse U4 underground station, 1060 Vienna, www.pinkchristmas.org
Pink Christmas in Vienna on the Naschmarkt is Vienna’s gay and lesbian Christmas market.
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Spittelberg Christmas Market
Nov 13-Dec 23, 2015: Mon-Thu 2-9pm, Fri 2-9.30pm, Sat 10am-9.30pm, Sun and public holidays
10am-9pm
Spittelberggasse, Burggasse, Schrankgasse, Stiftgasse, Siebensterngasse, 1070 Vienna,
www.spittelberg.at
Over 100 stands with products from Austria and surrounding countries on the romantic cobbled
streets of the Spittelberg district. The market is known for high quality handicrafts and food and
drink including traditional gingerbread, Christmas biscuits, cakes, pastries and teas. The kids
activity program consists of puppet theater, fairy tales, biscuit baking and candle making. On
Sundays parents can leave the little ones in the safe hands of the staff at the Christmas workshop.
Campus of the University of Vienna/Altes AKH Christmas Village
Nov 14-Dec 23, 2015: Mon-Fri 2-10pm, Sat-Sun and public holidays 11am-10pm
Altes AKH/Universitätscampus, Alserstrasse/Spitalgasse, 1090 Vienna, www.weihnachtsdorf.at
Over 50 stalls in the attractive grounds of the old General Hospital form an atmospheric Christmas
Village offering handmade jewelry, candles, soap, leather goods, woodwork and ceramics.
Revelers looking for mulled wine, hot punch and a wide selection of Christmas eats won’t be
disappointed. Two curling lanes, a vintage children’s carousel, and a Christmas train ride provide
further entertainment.
Culture and Christmas Market and New Year’s Market, Schönbrunn Palace
Nov 21-Dec 26, 2015 10am-9pm daily, Dec 24 10am-4pm, Dec 25-26 10am-6pm, Dec 27, 2015Jan 3, 2016 10am-6pm daily
Schönbrunn Palace, Schönbrunner Schlossstrasse, 1130 Vienna, www.weihnachtsmarkt.co.at
About 80 stallholders from Austria and neighboring countries display a varied selection of
traditional arts and crafts, handmade Christmas tree decorations, nativity scene sets and other
beautiful items made from natural materials. Hot punch and Christmas biscuits are in plentiful
supply and there’s music from choirs, gospel groups and brass bands from Austria and abroad.
Kids can do handicrafts under the supervision of expert craftspeople in the Christmas workshop,
make biscuits in Schönbrunn Bakery or take a tour of the Schloss Schönbrunn Experience
children’s museum. A New Year’s market with traditional lucky charms, delicious food, hot punch
and mulled wine is held on the same site from Dec 27, 2015 to Jan 3, 2016 (open daily 10am-6pm).
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Weihnachtszauber at Schloss Wilhelminenberg
Nov 13-Dec 23, 2015, Mon-Thu 4-9pm, Fri 3-9pm, Sat-Sun and public holidays 11am-9pm
Savoyenstrasse 2, 1160 Vienna
This small market on the Wilhelminenberg hill has magical views over the city.
Christmas Market in Türkenschanzpark
Nov 13-Dec 24, 2015: Mon-Fri 3-10pm, Sat-Sun and public holidays 12-10pm, Dec 24 12-3pm
Corner of Peter Jordan-Strasse and Dänenstrasse, 1180 Vienna, www.weihnachtimpark.at
Handicrafts, seasonal food and drink and a carousel in the charming surroundings of
Türkenschanzpark – with live music on Sundays.
Advent Market and Christmas Exhibition at Hirschstetten Gardens
Nov 19-Dec 20, 2015, Thu-Sun 10am-8pm
Blumengärten Hirschstetten, Quadenstrasse 15, 1220 Vienna, www.park.wien.at
The Christmas exhibition in the heated greenhouses operated by the municipal gardens agency in
the 22nd district is inspired by “sweet Christmas”. This year, the themed confectionary and flower
arrangements will include “Land of plenty” and “Spice bazaar”.
Temporary Christmas and Advent Markets and Other Advent Events (selected, by district)
Nativity display, Peterskirche church
Nov 22-Dec 15, 2015: daily 10am-6.30pm
Petersplatz, 1010 Vienna, www.krippenfreundewien.at
The show’s exhibits are sourced from private collections and presented in the church’s crypt, under
the title “Nativity scenes from around the world”. On weekends there are accompanying events
exploring themes related to nativity displays and Christmas.
Medieval Advent Market in front of the Museum of Military History
Dec 4-8, 2015, Fri 2-10pm, Sat and Sun 10am-10pm, Mon 2pm-10pm, Tue 10am-7pm
Arsenal, Objekt 1, 1030 Vienna, www.hgm.or.at
The square in front of the Museum of Military History will be filled with medieval handicrafts and
concessions stands, jugglers, swordsmen, dancers, fire breathers and entertainers. The children’s
program includes a living nativity scene, fairy tales, horse riding, carousel and arts and crafts.
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Winter im MQ
Nov 5-Dec 23, 2015
MuseumsQuartier, 1070 Vienna, www.mqw.at
Each year the courtyard of the MuseumsQuartier is transformed into a charming winter wonderland
for Winter im MQ. Ice pavilions serve original punch creations, the building’s facades double up as
a giant screen for video projections, the water feature is converted into a curling rink and there are
DJ sounds to enjoy.
WeihnachtsQuartier 2015
Nov 27-29, 2015: Fri 2-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am 7pm
freiraum quartier 21, Arena 21, Ovalhalle, MQ, Museumsplatz 1, 1070 Vienna,
www.weihnachtsquartier.at
A paradise for connoisseurs of the finer things in life opens in the halls of MuseumsQuartier on the
first weekend of Advent, with fashion, jewelry, ceramics, small interior furnishings, books and many
more creations from Austrian and international designers. Entry to the 1,000 m² indoor market is
free.
Lights 2015
Dec 4-6, 2015, 2-9pm
WUK, Währinger Strasse 59, 1090 Vienna, www.wuk.at
Young designers and small labels present the fruits of their labor at the WUK culture center in the
ninth district. A good place to pick up some off-beat, alternative gifts or relax in the candle-lit sofa
lounge with music from live artists and DJs, and a buffet.
Advent at Schönbrunn Zoo
Hietzinger Tor entrance, Hietzinger Hauptstrasse, 1130 Vienna, www.zoovienna.at
Schönbrunn Zoo offers free children’s tours on each Sunday of Advent (starting at 2.30pm at the
Hietzing information center). From Dec 5-8, 2015, there’s a chance to make decorations in the
Christmas workshop, and bake cookies in the kitchens of the Tyrolean Farmhouse. On Dec 24,
2015 – when the main family celebrations take place in Austria – special Christmas activities are
put on to occupy the kids during their agonizing wait for gifts later in the day.
Nativity display at Lainz Game Reserve
Nov 28, 2015-mid Jan, 2016
Lainzer Tiergarten, Lainzer Tor entrance, Hermesstrasse, 1130 Vienna
A Nativity display featuring life-size wooden figures at the Lainzer Tor entrance.
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