VANCOUVER ORPHAN KITTEN RESCUE
www.orphankittenrescue.com
CONGRATULATIONS ON ADOPTING YOUR NEW FAMILY MEMBER!
You've just adopted a new cat or kitten from VOKRA, rampaged through the pet store to stock up on
supplies, toys and goodies. The adoption papers are filled out, and now it's time to introduce the kitty to his
or her new home and the rest of the family. With just a little planning and patience, you can be assured the
adjustment period will be as rapid and stress-free as possible.
Remember that in order to have your check up and shot you must have your adoption paper with you at
one of our vets ( listed below) If there are any conditions we have missed they will be covered by VOKRA
at the first vet visit. Call to book within a few days of bringing the kitten home.
Spay / Neuter
must be done at 5 months. Be specially on top of this if you have male and
female kittens. Each year we hear of kittens going into heat earlier and earlier. One of our mandates is to
educate on the importance of these operations and on not bringing more kittens into an already pet
overpopulated world.
***KEEP THE KITTEN ON THE SAME FOOD AND LITTER USED IN THE FOSTER HOME***
IF THE FOOD IS RAW
We are happy to recommend CLUB CANINE. Their food is used for many of our kittens and cats. Karen,
from VOKRA, has taken over one of our fosters' home businesses, selling raw diet for cats and dogs. She
offers 10 % off to all those who adopt from VOKRA, and the price is already lower than in stores. You can
reach her at: rawdiner@hotmail.com. If you do not have a computer, call (604) 418-4008. (although it is
preferred you contact by e-mail.)
We highly recommend a raw diet for cats and dogs. From our own experience, it is the very best you can
do to keep your new family member happy and healthy with clean teeth and a glowing coat. You will save a
lot in vet costs down the road with this food. We provide it for as many of our fosters as possible. Not all
raw foods are equal so please let us know if you are considering another brand. Animals fed on raw diet
tend to drink less water so don't worry if you don't see the water bowl going down much.
Goat's milk is the only type of milk that agrees with cats, some of our kittens have been raised on it and will
still enjoy a small amount each day. It is available in cartons in most Safeway's. "Cat milk" is not
recommended. When you use the goat's milk, freeze half the carton as it goes bad quickly.
Contrary to popular belief, dry food does not keep teeth clean, in fact it causes plaque to form. Free feeding
of dry food has also caused huge problems of obesity as well as urinary tract disease, especially in males.
If the kitten has been eating canned food, some of the brands we would recommend are: Felidae, original
recipe, Wellness, Azmira, and Innova. Never feed anything you can buy in a supermarket..............it is
guaranteed to be an unhealthy choice and won't save you any money in the long run. The majority of
problems in our pets' health (cancer, diabetes, kidney disease etc.) are being directly related to poor food
choices and over vaccination.
Catnip is not recommended for kittens. They get a bit too nuts!
CRATE
Buy a good quality cat crate, right at the start. Cardboard ones do not last and cats can easily escape from
them, especially as they get older. Large pet stores have reasonable prices. We only release the kittens
from foster homes if adopter has a proper crate .
BOWLS
Metal or ceramic bowls are recommended. Plastic ones are not a healthy choice for cats or dogs.
LITTER
The majority of our kittens have been raised on pine litter. It is an excellent choice for kittens/cats and a
very economical, safe choice. It can be scooped and flushed (in very small amounts) and is very good at
keeping smells under control. Never use clumping type litter for a kitten. They tend to eat it, or clean it off
wet feet; it clumps in their tiny systems and can kill them. Most Tisol or Bosley stores have large bags of
Horse Bedding pine pellets, for a good price or Pinnacle Pine litter. For the very same stuff at the lowest
price, ask for Stove Pellets, at RONA stores. A safe clumping litter is Pine Fresh; some of our kittens have
used it in foster homes as well.
COLLAR
Please purchase an elastic type collar; the kind (Tenth Life) with a strip of reflective tape is a great choice.
Write: "INDOOR CAT" and your phone number on the silver strip with an indelible pen. Check the sizing
often as the kitten grows. Wait until the kitten is grown before putting anything that dangles on the collar.
If you intend to use a halter it is a good idea to start at a young age. Small kittens may not need or
appreciate a collar at first. They could get hung up on things, so it is best to wait until they get bigger
before having them wear one all the time.
PET INSURANCE
You will have been provided with info on pet insurance at your first vet visit. We highly recommend getting
it. You never know when illness or accident will happen, and having insurance to cover what can be large
bills is the best way to be prepared. We recommend "Pet Care "as they provide coverage for both allopathic
and holistic treatment, but check and compare other companies. If you decide to get insurance, get it right
away. Last year a kitten accidentally broke a leg two weeks after being adopted and there was a $2000.00
bill to pay.
BIG DANGERS TO BE AWARE OF
CORDS that dangle and swing (including phone cords) are really big temptations to kittens. Many have
caused nasty burns or deaths. Try and tape or hook them away.
TABLE CLOTHS are an invitation for climbing and swinging. Anything on the table can be pulled down on
the teeny kitten causing nasty injuries or death.
STRING, elastic, hair elastics, thread, needles, tacks, buttons, bells, tinsel, coins and small children's toys
are all happily ingested by kittens as they play. We have recently heard of deaths due to string and elastic
being ingested. Please be VERY careful of any small things within the kittens' reach. Cooked bones are also
very dangerous as they splinter when chewed up.
TOILET BOWLS and buckets should be kept closed as tiny kittens can easily drown if they jump in. Always
be careful when having a bath as well.
WINDOWS. Be sure that all windows have screens or are locked open at a very small gap. Kittens can
easily fall out windows. Balconies must be meshed and, of course rail ledges are not safe for walking on. In
general it is not safe for young kittens to be on balconies alone. One of our foster kittens recently fell 11
stories off a balcony.
PLANTS. Many houseplants are dangerous for cats, so it is best to keep them all out of reach. Pollen falling
from lilies causes kidney damage and death. Pet stores sell cat grass, and the seed to grow it as well, if you
would like to provide something safe and green to eat. Large floor plants should have soil covered with
rock, mesh or tin foil from the start to avoid them being confused as litter boxes.
MOVING IN
Cats are, by nature, highly territorial, which means that having a place to call their own is extremely
important to their emotional well being. Your new kitten is already in a state of stress from having been
brought to a new home with new people and surroundings. Your goal is to help make your new family
member feel comfortable and safe as quickly as possible. Confine the kitten to a small room (the bathroom
is good) for the first few days. It's food and litter and a warm soft bed/and or the kennel, should be in the
room. A hot water bottle under the blanket is soothing and, the old tale of rubbing a teeny bit of butter on
the pads of the feet actually does help it settle in! Especially when you are not home, it is very important to
leave kittens where they can't get into trouble, for quite some time.
Some shy cats and kittens may hide under a piece of furniture for as long as a week, others will be ready to
come out and explore right away. Be sure the litter box and food are near their hiding spot and that the
kitten is eating. You should spend as much time as possible in the room with the kitten, but never try to
force it out of hiding. The cat will let you know when it is ready to begin exploring more of the house.
MEETING THE FAMILY
Naturally, everyone in the family, especially the kids, will be excited to see the new arrival. Children should
be asked to meet the new kitty calmly and quietly. Have them sit on the floor and allow the kitten to come
to them to investigate. Have the child hold out a hand to be sniffed or pull a toy around for it to see.
Picking a new kitten up off the ground usually frightens it, whether by a child or an adult. Never allow a
child to encourage a kitten to pounce on their fingers (or yours for that matter) It may seem cute at first,
but soon becomes a very painful game. Your hand should never be considered a plaything. Teach children
how to properly hold a cat; with one hand under the bum and one under the front legs / chest, held up
against their body. A kitten should never be held against its will. It will not want to be held at all if it thinks
you won't let it go when it wants. Be sure children understand this and never leave the very young alone
with a small animal.
INTRODUCING THE NEW KITTEN TO OTHER CATS
Do not be surprised if your older cat is not amused at the new arrival. He may be fearful of losing territory
or worried he is to be replaced. Extra love, attention and patience during this time will help. Be prepared
for it to take from a week to a month before the resident cat accepts the new cat. Before bringing the new
kitten home, be sure your cat is healthy. Let it continue to have its usual run of the house while the new
one is confined (a bathroom is ideal) The resident cat will understand it is not being pushed out of it's
territory. Take a towel or blanket that has each cats scent (rub the area on each side of mouth) and
introduce it to the other cats space. This way they get used to each other's scent before meeting. Feed the
two on either side of the door of the new kittens' room. Let them sniff and paw under the door with one
another, to familiarize each with the other's smell and presence.
When the time comes for the two cats to meet for the first time, try to give them short periods of contact,
slowly increasing the time as they adapt to one another. Be sure to supervise their visits until you're sure
they are okay alone. Be prepared for some hissing and growling, which is quite normal for cats that are
getting to know one another. Do not yell or discipline for hissing etc. In the unlikely event of a fight
breaking out, break it up with a spray bottle or a thrown towel, not your hands. Prevent the new cat from
sleeping in any of your cat's favorite places and provide each with separate food and water bowls, as well as
litter boxes. They will probably use each other's, but will appreciate having their own. Take every
opportunity to pet and praise your older cat. Above all be patient, give them time, and one day you will find
them grooming each other when they think you aren't looking!
DOGS AND CATS
Most of the same advice applies to introducing dogs and cats. You may wish to put up a baby gate in the
doorway to the cat's room as they begin to actually meet. That way the kitten has a safety zone to run to if
things get too scary. Be sure to supervise and praise if the dog is calm and gentle. If the cat runs from the
dog, do not allow the dog to chase it, and don't force a cat that seems uncomfortable to be in the same
room with the dog. Keep the first visits brief, then extend them as the animals become familiar with each
other. Be patient, give them time, and they'll soon learn to get along.
PREVENTING BAD HABITS
If you don't want your cat on counters, tables etc., do not allow it to start the habit. Cats love to be up high,
so find another spot for him that is high and ok with you. The top of a climber or the fridge may be an
answer. Persistently move the kitten to the approved spot when it has gone where you don't want it. The
use of a spray bottle (don't let him realize the water is coming from you) will make your point a little
stronger. Make a deep growling noise at the same time as spraying, and you will be able to drop the
spraying and just use the noise very soon. We have found that scruffing the skin on the back of the neck
gently (like the mother cat does) and making a deep growl is very effective in stopping bad behaviors such
as biting, scratching, climbing pants legs (cute when little, but not so when older), getting up on counters,
etc. Be consistent when the kitten is new to your home and it will pay off in the future. The scruffing and
growling is familiar to them, as it is what a mother cat will do. After a while, just growling will get the idea
across. It is much more effective than yelling "NO"
SCRATCHING FURNITURE OR CARPET
Scratching is a normal behavior for the cat to leave its' scent on territory, get exercise, and groom it's nails.
Most will leave things alone if you redirect their scratching instincts to an acceptable spot right from the
start. Invest in a kitty condo big enough for your cat to stretch out on, and if you see him start to scratch,
take him to the post. There are new products for persistent scratching problems that don't respond to
spraying water and growling. One thing is a double-sided sticky sheet that can be put on the spot for a
while; cats don't like sticky! Another product blasts out a stream of air when the cat comes near, it can be
moved around to help with different spots and problems. Spraying a citrus smell on the area will keep them
away as well. DO NOT CONSIDER DECLAWING. This is a tortuous operation, which is equal to amputating
our fingers at the first knuckle. It is horribly painful, leaves your cat defenseless, and often causes emotional
problems that arise from the suppression of this very natural activity. To see more about de-clawing, check
the links on our web site.
CLIPPING YOUR KITTENS NAILS
This is a very good way to avoid scratches the pinpoint nails on kittens can give you. Start by using every
opportunity to massage and play with its feet and toes. At first try and cut the nails once a week (on the
same day, so you remember). Do it at the end of the day or when you know the kitten will be sleepy and
calm. Squeeze the end of the toes to cause the nail to extend and then, using cat nail scissors or toenail
clippers for people clip off just the tip of each nail. Do not take much off, as you don't want to cut into the
quick. This will hurt and cause bleeding. We have a link to see how this is done on the web site. If you are
afraid to do this, a pet groomer will do it for you.
Again, do not tickle or play hand games with your kitten. This causes it to consider your hand a plaything
that can be chewed and clawed at will. Use toys and wands to play.
NOT USING THE LITTER BOX
**ACT IMMEDIATELY** First, have your cat checked at the vet to rule out a urinary tract problem. Go back
to confining the kitten in a small area with its litter box. The bathroom or a large kennel is good. Do not
use scented litters and if you have changed the litter brand, go back to the original one that was used in the
foster home. Move the box to a more hidden spot, use a cover on it (or remove the cover). Provide multiple
boxes in multiple cat homes. And, if it is a kitten, be sure it can find the box! Sometimes in a big house a
small kitten can get lost, or over excited, and not be able to find the box in time. Clean any spots up
immediately by soaking it up with paper towel, and then spray with a product found in most pet supply
stores, called Natures' Miracle. This is an enzyme cleaner that eats up the offending stain rather than
covering it. If cats smell where they (or another cat) have gone before, they may continue using the same
spot. Tin foil put over the spot and a citrus spray in the area deters them as well. Or just put another litter
box in the chosen spot. Be sure the litter box is large enough so the cat can turn around easily in it.
*** Do not allow this problem to escalate !!!! PLEASE EMAIL us for help if the above
suggestions don't stop it. Litter box problems are one of the biggest reasons people give up their cats.
Kittens and cats are attracted to and sometimes urinate on feather filled quilts and pillows. They also are
sometimes drawn to towels, clothing piles and bathmats. Get in touch for help:
rescue@orphankittenrescue.com
TOYS
Some of the most successful toys are free! Toilet paper rolls, scrunched paper balls, paper bags (not
plastic). Things they love, that are also cheap are Cat Dancer toy, (wire with paper on it's end that can be
hung from a closed drawer.) Ping pong balls, wands, feathers, large cement form cardboard tubes (from big
hardware stores: Home Depot, Rona etc.) you can leave them long or get them cut in lengths at the store
for ease of transport. Cardboard scratchers are low-cost and they love them, but they can be messy. Of
course be sure to have a good scratch post, preferably something the cats can climb up high on.
Finally, the best toy you can provide is another cat. Two kittens will amuse each other while you are out
and wear each other out, so nighttime is sleep time, not run across your face in bedtime!!
VETS WE RECOMMEND
Arbutus West Animal Clinic - Macdonald and 16th (in Vancouver)…........(604) 736-6701
North Shore Vet Clinic - 227 Mountain Hwy...........................................(604) 980-0440
Shaughnessy Veterinary Hospital - Port Coquitlam......................…........(604) 945-4949
Coast Cat Clinic 5514 East hastings in Burnaby
(604) 299 3395
For a more holistic approach:
Beloved Creatures ( at Healing Place in N. Vanc)
Julie Anne Lee - Homeopathic Practitioner
& Dr David Ruish
............................ (604) 983-o987
FLEAS
If your animals get fleas, we suggest using half the recommended amount of Advantage or Revolution;
purchase it from a vet (not the pet store types like Hartz products) only when there are live fleas. Treating
two times should do it. Get a metal flea comb. Indoor cats generally do not get fleas unless they are
brought in on your clothes or other pets. Make sure you vacuum thoroughly and often if fleas are present.
***Never use flea collars. Never use flea shampoo; it can kill a kitten***
PET SITTING
We have pet sitters listed on our website. It is usually cheaper and much easier on your kitten/cat to just
stay at home in it's own surroundings and have someone come in and feed, than to put them in a vets
where it is quite stressful. Besides, your mail gets brought in and lights can be turned on or off.
IN CLOSING
Please e-mail ; rescue@orphankittenrescue.com if you run into any problems. We have placed over 4000
kittens and cats so far, and have heard it all; there is always a solution! Put “kitten (or cat) problem “ in
subject line of your email..
We will be updating useful info on our site constantly, so check back often. The site will also have
announcements on fundraisers and upcoming events.
We are a registered/no kill charity and can give tax receipts, if you or a friend, are looking for somewhere to
donate. All the money goes to the care and feeding of the kittens and cats, and nowhere else!!!
Send us a picture and story on your adopted kitten(s) so we can put them up on the site. Include the
original name and adoption date.
Have a wonderful life with your new friend(s). They rely on you as their forever family now, and will be a
great joy in your life.
Regards from all of us at VOKRA!