1
A Cruising Guide to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence
Edited by Jim Evans
This guide covers the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence divided, somewhat arbitrarily, into the
following regions:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
La Côte du Nord - the Quèbec shore from Sept-Iles to Blanc Sablon, including the Ile
d'Anticosti
Les Iles de la Madeleine
Prince Edward Island, including the Northumberland Strait
Miramichi Bay to Baie des Chaleurs and Cap de Gaspé
The St. Lawrence below Quèbec City to Sept-Iles and Cap de Gaspé
Published by members of the Cruising Club of America
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We are constantly looking for updates on ports and anchorages. If you have cruised any of
these areas in the past few years we would be grateful for your observations, particularly
on off lying dangers, cautions on entry, quality and availability of shelter and remarks on
shore side facilities and attractions (or otherwise). You get your name in print!
Please send information to:
Jim Evans,
134 Machon Point Road,
Murray Harbour, PE
Canada
C0A 1V0
or, preferably, by e-mail to: james.evans@pei.sympatico.ca
Where place names appear in French on the charts I have not tried to translate them (as above).
However, the most important descriptors are:
anse – cove
île – island
archipel – archipelago
îlet - islet
baie – bay
passage or passe - pass
banc – bank
pèninsule – peninsula
battures – flats
rivière - river
brisants – breakers
rocher - rock
chenal – channel
récif – reef
dètroit – strait
traverse – crossing
haut-fond - shoal
traversier - ferry
havre - harbour
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:
We gratefully acknowledge the cooperation of Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and
Oceans Canada in allowing us to use aerial photos of harbour installations from their website.
And, of course, thanks to all the sailors whose sharing of their experiences made this volume
possible.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
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Table of Contents
How to use the Guide ...................................................................................................................... 6
Getting to the Gulf .......................................................................................................................... 6
Cruising in the Gulf ........................................................................................................................ 8
Charts and Stuff .............................................................................................................................. 9
La Côte du Nord - from Sept-Iles to Blanc Sablon, including the Ile d'Anticosti ........................ 11
Sept-Iles .................................................................................................................................... 11
Anse à la Marmite ..................................................................................................................... 12
Ile du Corossol .......................................................................................................................... 13
Ile Grande Basque ..................................................................................................................... 13
La Grosse Boule ........................................................................................................................ 14
Rivière Moisie ........................................................................................................................... 14
Havre à la Goèlette.................................................................................................................... 15
Rivière aux Loups Marins ......................................................................................................... 16
Rivière au Tonnerre .................................................................................................................. 16
Anticosti Island, Port Menier .................................................................................................... 17
Anticosti Island, Baie Sainte-Claire .......................................................................................... 18
Mingan ...................................................................................................................................... 18
Havre St.-Pierre......................................................................................................................... 20
Archipelago de Mingan............................................................................................................. 21
Ile à la Proie .............................................................................................................................. 22
Ile à Samuel............................................................................................................................... 22
Havre St. Charles ...................................................................................................................... 22
Baie des Grès and Havre de Betchouane .................................................................................. 23
Baie Johan-Beetz ...................................................................................................................... 23
Natashquan ................................................................................................................................ 25
Baie Coacoachou ...................................................................................................................... 26
Cape Whittle ............................................................................................................................. 26
Harrington Harbour ................................................................................................................... 26
Passe Aylmer ............................................................................................................................ 28
Havre de la Croix ...................................................................................................................... 28
Anse du Petit Mécatina ............................................................................................................. 29
Baie de la Tabatière .................................................................................................................. 29
Havre Boulet ............................................................................................................................. 30
Havre Du Gros Mécatina .......................................................................................................... 30
Baie du Portage du Canot ......................................................................................................... 31
Rivière Kécarpoui ..................................................................................................................... 31
Petit Rigolet .............................................................................................................................. 31
Saint Augustin ........................................................................................................................... 32
Grand Rigolet ............................................................................................................................ 32
Bayfield Harbour to Cumberland Harbour ............................................................................... 33
Baie de Jacques Cartier ............................................................................................................. 34
Baie de Brador .......................................................................................................................... 35
Baie de Blanc Sablon .............................................................................................................. 36
L’Anse au Clair ......................................................................................................................... 37
4
Les Iles de la Madeleine ............................................................................................................... 38
Millerand (Anse à la Cabane) ................................................................................................... 39
L’Etang du Nord ....................................................................................................................... 40
Pointe du Cap ............................................................................................................................ 41
Cap du Dauphin ........................................................................................................................ 41
Old Harry .................................................................................................................................. 42
Grande Entrée ........................................................................................................................... 42
Havre aux Maisons ................................................................................................................... 43
Cap-aux-Meules ........................................................................................................................ 43
Havre Aubert ............................................................................................................................. 44
Ile d’Entrée................................................................................................................................ 45
Prince Edward Island, including the Northumberland Strait ........................................................ 47
Northumberland Strait Ports of P.E.I. ........................................................................................... 48
Wood Islands ............................................................................................................................ 49
Pinette River.............................................................................................................................. 50
Hillsborough Bay ...................................................................................................................... 51
Charlottetown............................................................................................................................ 52
Victoria ..................................................................................................................................... 53
Borden ....................................................................................................................................... 55
Summerside............................................................................................................................... 56
West Point ................................................................................................................................. 57
West Coast of PEI ......................................................................................................................... 58
Howard's Cove (Seal Point) ...................................................................................................... 58
Miminegash............................................................................................................................... 58
Skinners Pond ........................................................................................................................... 58
North Shore of PEI........................................................................................................................ 58
Alberton (Northport) ................................................................................................................. 59
MalpequeBay ............................................................................................................................ 60
New London Bay ...................................................................................................................... 61
St. Peter’s Bay........................................................................................................................... 61
East Shore of PEI .......................................................................................................................... 62
Souris ........................................................................................................................................ 62
Fortune Bay............................................................................................................................... 63
Annandale ................................................................................................................................. 64
Launching Bay .......................................................................................................................... 65
Georgetown ............................................................................................................................... 66
Cardigan River .......................................................................................................................... 67
Brudenell River ......................................................................................................................... 68
Montague .................................................................................................................................. 68
Graham’s Pond.......................................................................................................................... 69
Murray Harbour ........................................................................................................................ 70
Beach Point ............................................................................................................................... 72
Murray Harbour Village ........................................................................................................... 73
Murray River ............................................................................................................................. 74
Greek River and Mink River..................................................................................................... 74
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick Sides of Northumberland Strait .............................................. 76
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
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Havre Boucher .......................................................................................................................... 76
Bayfield Wharf/ Pomquet Road ................................................................................................ 77
Cribbon’s Point (Cribbean Head) ............................................................................................. 77
Ballantyne’s Cove ..................................................................................................................... 78
Livingstone Cove ...................................................................................................................... 79
Arisaig ....................................................................................................................................... 79
Lismore Wharf (Baillie Brook) ................................................................................................. 80
Pictou Island.............................................................................................................................. 82
Pictou ........................................................................................................................................ 83
Caribou...................................................................................................................................... 84
Brulé Harbour ........................................................................................................................... 84
Tatamagouche Bay.................................................................................................................... 85
Directions .................................................................................................................................. 85
Richibucto ................................................................................................................................. 89
Miramichi Bay to Baie des Chaleurs and Cap de Gaspé .............................................................. 90
Miramichi .................................................................................................................................. 90
Shippagan .................................................................................................................................. 91
The St. Lawrence below Québec City to Sept-Iles and Cap de Gaspé ......................................... 92
Quèbec City .............................................................................................................................. 92
Quèbec City Yacht Club ........................................................................................................... 92
Marina du Vieux Port, Bassin Louise ....................................................................................... 93
Routes below Québec City........................................................................................................ 94
North Shore ............................................................................................................................... 95
Mouillage à la Prairie/St. Bernard de l’Ile aux Coudres ........................................................... 95
Cap à l’Aigle ............................................................................................................................. 96
Godbout..................................................................................................................................... 97
Ile aux Oeufs ............................................................................................................................. 98
Ile du Grand Caouis .................................................................................................................. 99
South Shore ................................................................................................................................. 100
Baie du Ha! Ha! ...................................................................................................................... 100
Rimouski ................................................................................................................................. 101
L’Anse à Valleau .................................................................................................................... 103
Cap des Rosiers ....................................................................................................................... 103
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How to use the Guide
This guide does not attempt to replace the information given in Sailing Directions or nautical
charts, but tries to fill in with personal experience of sailors who have actually visited each place
described. Their names are noted and the timeliness of the information may be judged from the
year each visit was made. Where possible information has been listed under the following
headings:
Directions: how to enter the port in question, with warnings where appropriate
Berths and Anchorages: Where to berth and recommended anchorages.
Facilities: facilities available dockside and nearby
Remarks: comments about local sights, things to do and general cautions.
Getting to the Gulf
Like most of the best places, the Gulf is a long way away - from just about anywhere. It's over
600 miles from Lake Ontario to Sept-Iles, over 750 miles from New York to the Strait of Canso:
and you've only just reached the start of it. It's a big area: over 300 miles north to south, 350
from west to east. Once there, though, you have many choices of types of cruising: open water
passages, pottering around fishing villages, or exploring genuine wilderness. One thing there
isn't is big cities - Charlottetown on Prince Edward Island is the biggest below Quèbec, but with
a population of 65,000 a big city it's not!
Coming from the south, the Strait of Canso between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton is the logical
route: it is a long haul around Cape Breton and you are faced with a nasty stretch of water, the
Cabot Strait, once you get to the top. If you are coming through the Strait of Canso take the time
for a day or two around Ile Madame and the Lennox Passage: it's beautiful cruising and you
won't regret it.
Bound for the Gulf via Newfoundland you could choose to take the route down through the Bras
d'Or Lakes and through the Strait of Canso or direct into the Gulf, perhaps via the Iles de la
Madeleine. Only the adventurous and hardy will choose to go north of Newfoundland and down
through the Strait of Belle Isle.
Coming from the Great Lakes the choice is between the Gaspé and Northumberland Strait, the
Côte du Nord or straight across the middle via the Iles de la Madeleine: the choice will depend
on one's taste for the wilderness, for the Côte du Nord has plenty of it. Some combination of
these choices will probably suit most sailors best.
There are a number of Vessel Traffic Separation schemes in the Gulf and River. They are all
very clearly shown on the charts, are rarely extremely busy, and in every case it is possible to
stay out of them unless you have to cross, which must of course be done as nearly as possible at
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
7
right angles to the traffic. If in doubt, a VHF securité call or a call to Vessel Traffic Operations
(see Radio Aids to Marine Navigation for frequencies and call signs) would be a good idea.
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Cruising in the Gulf
For those coming from the States or the Great Lakes the biggest shock will be the paucity of
marinas and the plethora of public docks (very few of which ever charge anything for dockage).
Most bigger towns will have a marina with the usual facilities, or possibly charge to lie alongside
the dock, but fees are usually small: typically a dollar per foot or less, or a flat rate of $15-20.
There are a few privately operated marinas or yacht clubs in the larger places or those with a
substantial pleasure boating population, and these often offer haulout facilities. However, several
larger fishing ports have substantial travel-lifts for hauling the fishing boats and these are
available to the public.
In the smaller ports it may be necessary to lie alongside a fishing boat. Ask around and you may
find one that is not leaving at 3 in the morning. In any case use long lines and tie direct to the
shore, not to the boat, and the fishermen will extricate themselves without waking you.
I have never been asked to pay for anchoring off and I would ask for the credentials of anyone
who asked for payment.
As there are so many small places with wharves it is possible to cruise without a dinghy here
unless you are venturing into the wilderness, but a dinghy to get to a swimming beach (the water,
particularly in the Northumberland Strait, is warm and conducive to swimming even for the notso-hardy) or ashore for a stroll is definitely a bonus.
Many small places don't have a store, or a very marginal one at best, so it is advisable to carry
plenty of provisions. If you do get stuck for something a long way from a store, ask around and
you may find someone to drive you (or they may sell or give you something). You won't find a
car rental except in the biggest places. If you need supplies for the boat, ask the fishermen: there
may be a fishermen's co-op or something which will have at least things like rough cordage,
epoxy and fibreglass and antifouling, local charts and big green rubber boots.
Climate: is typically maritime, but with much less fog than the Atlantic coast. Ice persists later in
the spring, however, usually disappearing by the end of April but making early-season (May)
cruising somewhat rugged. A document that deals with winds and waves in detail may be viewed
at ttp://www.meds-sdmm.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/meds/Databases/WAVE/TDC_e.htm, but it only deals
with Anticosti and the Northern Gulf and is highly technical.
Text forecasts, synoptic charts and marine weather forecasts may be viewed at
http://weather.ec.gc.ca/index.html
Where I am aware of specific dangers I have indicated them with a red CAUTION.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
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Charts and Stuff
CAUTION
NONE of the chartlets, drawings or photographs in this Guide is intended for navigation.
Channels change, harbours are rebuilt, and the chartlets themselves are liable to
distortions in preparation.
The Canadian Hydrographic Service maintains an excellent interactive website which has all the
information about charts that you could possibly want, including dealers in Canada and other
countries and how to order direct (usually the best option, as charts will be assured to be the
latest updated version). The web address is:
http://www.chs-shc.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/pub/en/
If you prefer to order by snail mail the addresses are:
Central and Eastern Canada
CHS Chart Distribution Office
P.O. Box 8080
830 Industrial Ave, unit 19
Ottawa, ON
K1G 3H6
Ph: (613) 998-4931
Fax: (613) 998-1217
E-mail: chs_sales@dfompo.gc.ca
Pacific Coast
CHS Chart Distribution Office
9860 W. Saanich Rd.
Sidney, BC
V8L 4B2
Ph: (250) 363-6358
Fax: (250) 363-6841
E-mail:chartsales@pac.dfompo.gc.ca
I will not suggest which charts you should have as this will depend on your chosen route, depth
of pockets, availability or type of electronic charting and comfort level with poking into tight
spots with minimal information. (Poking into major ports with minimal information is much
easier – they have a lot more aids to navigation!). If you need to update your charts the current
Notices to Mariners are available on line at:
http://dsp-psd.pwgsc.gc.ca/Collection/T34-14-1-27-4E.pdf
As a starter you will need, for the Gulf:
Catalogue of Nautical Charts and Related Publications #1 Atlantic Coast
Tide and Current Tables Vol. 2 - Gulf of St. Lawrence
Tidal predictions for individual locations can be obtained via:
http://www.waterlevels.gc.ca/cgi-bin/tideshc.cgi?queryType=showRegion&language=english&region=4
Sailing Directions, Gulf of St. Lawrence
Sailing Directions St. Lawrence River ATL 110 Cap Whittle/Cap Gaspé to Les Escoumins
You can buy the List of Lights, but a current, updated List of Lights, Buoys and Fog Signals can
be downloaded free in PDF form from:
http://www.notmar.gc.ca/go.document?doc=eng/services/list/atlantic_coast_2004_e
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Radio Aids to Marine Navigation is a useful publication that gives details of marine
communications frequencies, Vessel Traffic Systems, weather forecast channels and times, canal
and lock operations etc. It is available from the Canadian Hydrographic Service at the address
above or on-line at:
http://www.ccg-gcc.gc.ca/mcts-sctm/ramn/docs/index_e.htm
A very useful publication regarding weather and its effects on sea conditions in the Gulf and
River is Secrets of the Saint Lawrence – Marine Weather Guide, which can be downloaded free
from the following site:
http://www.qc.ec.gc.ca/meteo/secrets_stlaurent/index_e.htm
It includes an exhaustive list of reference works for those who really want to do their homework
before a visit to the Gulf.
For those planning to visit the northernmost stretches of the Gulf the companion volume to this
one, the Cruising Guide to Newfoundland and Labrador, is strongly recommended, as is the
Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia for the Nova Scotia shores of the Gulf.
For the St. Lawrence River to Quèbec you will also need:
Sailing Directions St. Lawrence River ATL 111 Ile Verte to Quèbec
Tidal Atlas of the St. Lawrence – this quasi-essential publication gives hour-by-hour graphics of
the complicated and powerful current flows in the River and estuary.
Canadian Tide and Current Tables Vol. 3 - St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers – this is a
necessary accompaniment to the Tidal Atlas giving times of high and low and peak currents.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
11
La Côte du Nord - from Sept-Iles to Blanc Sablon,
including the Ile d'Anticosti
NOTE: I acknowledge some following information from the useful and comprehensive Guide
Nautique de la Côte-Nord, published by:
Club Nautique de Sept-Iles,
385 rue Arnaud, C.P. 664, Sept-Iles, Quèbec
G4R 4K9
Alas, it is only available in French as far as I know and only goes as far west as Havre St.-Pierre.
I was given a photostatted copy printed in 1984 and I don’t know whether it’s still in print. It is
aimed primarily at operators of small powerboats but the information is detailed enough for use
by larger boats.
L’Escale Nautique, a Quèbec yachting magazine, publishes an excellent and up-to-date Guide
Nautique which covers all Quèbec waters below Quèbec City including the Iles de la Madeleine.
It is a very professional piece of work and has a lot of detail about facilities, although little about
favourite gunkholes or shoreside attractions, and lacks the personal touch that this volume
attempts to provide. It is only available in French – available from
http://www.blyacht.com/fr/detail.asp?sku=0604714
Sept-Iles
50° 12.1’N, 66° 23.2’W
Chart 1220
Jim Evans 2002
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and
Oceans Canada
Directions
Sept-Iles is a major port (iron ore) and the aids to navigation are accordingly substantial and
numerous.
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Anchorage and Berths
The bay of Sept-Iles is large and anchorages are subject to wakes from ships and power boats.
The best shelter is in the marina of the Club Nautique (in the background in the photo above).
The dock at the Quai du Parc Urbain (distance) offers reasonable shelter in winds from the south
and east but is likely to be busy with tourists and fishing boats. A large yellow tent at the head of
the quay often has entertainments. It is possible to anchor off here, but keep well clear of the
dock to allow room for arriving and departing vessels.
The docks at the Quai Monseigneur Blanche (foreground), although well-sheltered and officially
available for pleasure craft, are generally full of fishing and work boats.
There are a number of good anchorages in the Sept Iles (Seven Islands) themselves - see below.
Facilities
The marina has electricity and water at the docks. Sept-Iles is a good-sized town and has most
things you’re likely to need, although it’s a tidy walk to the well-stocked Canadian Tire store.
There are some good restaurants with fine seafood.
Anse à la Marmite
50° 09.6’N, 66° 25.7’W
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
This small bay on the tip of Pointe Noire offers a good anchorage in sand in about 12 feet once
clear of the reef in the entrance - pass to the south side.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
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Ile du Corossol
50° 05.75’N, 66° 23.25’W
Chart 1220
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
There is a choice of anchorages in the channel between Ile du Corossol and Ile Manowin and in
Anse de l’Ouest on Ile Manowin, as indicated above.
Remarks
The island is named for the king of France's ship Corrosol which was wrecked on this island in
1693. The lighthouse was built in 1870. The picturesque island is a nesting colony for gulls,
guillemots, terns and cormorants
Ile Grande Basque
50 10.3’N, 66 22.0’W
Chart 1220
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de
Cote-Nord)
Anchorage and Berths
There are two anchorages between Grande
Petite Ile Basque as shown above. Both
reported to be in sand bottom.
la
and
are
Four orange and white mooring buoys are maintained by the Club Nautique de Sept-Iles along
the western shore of Ile Grande Basque. There are also anchorages in Anse à Cyrille and Havre à
Zoël on the north end of Grande Basque. The latter is reported to give good shelter in strong
westerly and south-westerly winds.
Facilities
None
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La Grosse Boule
50 09.3’N, 66 17.5’W
Chart 1220
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
Directions
Approach between Grosse and Petite Boule from east or west is straightforward.
Anchorages and Berths
The anchorages on the northern tip of Ile Grosse Boule are on the east and west sides, making
them suitable for winds from west or east accordingly, and they are sheltered from the NNW by
la Petite Boule.
Facilities
None
CAUTION
The coast from here eastward is generally poorly charted and very foul. It is advisable to
stay well out beyond the 20 fathom line.
Rivière Moisie
50° 12’N, 66° 04’W
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
There is reported to be a good anchorage in 2 to 4 metres behind the Pointe aux Americains
inside the river. However, a look at the chart and consideration of the reported strong tides and
shifting channels would suggest local knowledge is essential.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
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Havre à la Goèlette
50 15.7’N, 65 48.5’W
Chart 4026
Jim Evans 2002
Havre à la Goèlette (Schooner Harbour in English) is a tiny hole-in-the-wall anchorage behind
off lying reefs and rocks, used occasionally by fishing boats – I shared it with one from the
Gaspé.
Directions
The anchorage is just to the east
of Pointe St. Charles and is
difficult to see from offshore.
Approach from the southeast and
identify the small, bare, lowlying island that protects the
anchorage. Enter slowly,
watching for reefs that extend
from both sides of the channel.
Anchor in about 9 feet in sand
and mud, quite close in to the
small bay in the north side of the
island. In winds with an easterly
component, anchor in the small
bay to the east of the anchorage.
Once in, shelter is excellent in
reasonable weather and this is a
beautiful and lonely spot with
dark firs behind and smooth
wave-worn rocks to seaward. It
could be a trap in a strong southerly, however.
Facilities
You are very much on your own here, although the road is only half a mile away. The east side
of the harbour dries to sand if you need to dry out and it is reported that there is an anchorage
just inside the tip of Pointe St. Charles, although it wasn't obvious when I was there.
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Rivière aux Loups Marins
50° 15’N, 65° 44’W
Chart 4026 (no detail chart)
(Information from Le Guide
Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
Directions
Two miles east of Havre a la
Goèlette, a cross is displayed on an
islet to the west of the river mouth.
Follow the centre of the channel
avoiding the islets and rocks at the
entrance and the shoals to the west.
Anchorage
There is reported to be room for a dozen boats to moor in shelter except from easterly winds, in 7
to 10 feet sand. There are beaches of fine sand to the west. There is also anchorage in the Anse à
la Baleine to the west and in a number of bays and inlets further west, but in each case there is no
detailed chart and the Guide recommends exploration by dinghy before entering.
Rivière au Tonnerre
50 16.5’N, 64 46.7’W
Chart 4026 (no detailed chart but there
are clear directions and a chartlet in the
Sailing Directions).
Jim Evans 2002
Directions
Rivière au Tonnerre can be identified from offshore by the church spire (100 ft) to the east of the
harbour. Follow the range lights (360°) in to the tiny harbour. There may be a lighted Morse "A"
R/W bell buoy in about 50° 15N, 64° 46W.
CAUTION The narrow channel into the harbour is reported to be difficult in strong southerly
winds and there are shoals and rocks close on both sides. There may be only 5 feet or so in the
channel (note the caution on seasonal silting in ATL 110: silt is washed down from the interior in
the spring runoff), although there is more depth at the dock. When I was there depth was no
problem.
Anchorage and berths
Tie up to the L-shaped public wharf or anchor in the basin in sand and rock bottom. There is not
a lot of anchoring room.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
17
Facilities
There is a shop with some basic supplies, a garage and a “casse-croute” (snack bar) just up the
road to the east. Water and power are on the dock but access may not be convenient. The historic
church is worth a visit. A (thunderous, hence the name) salmon river flows into the head of the
harbour.
Anticosti Island, Port Menier
49° 48.9’N, 64° 21.8’W
Chart 4026
Noel Lien 2000, Eric Radin 2001, 2003
Noel Lien 2000
The only "Port" on the Island. It is open to all winds, has terrible holding and the harbour is a U
shaped steel pile basin used by a pulpwood barge and tug. 8 ft tides make it difficult to get off or
on the boat. We only spent one very uncomfortable night here in 2000. However, if you get quiet
settled weather the town was worth a visit for all the white-tailed deer walking around: 250,000
at last count.
Eric Radin 2001, 2003 The only decent harbour on Anticosti Island is Port Menier, which is on
the southwest end of the island. It is well buoyed and has a range. It's commercial, but has
enough space for a yacht. There is an airport with service several days a week, some provisions
are available and a trip inland by vehicle can be arranged. There are some "named" anchorages
on the northwest end of the island, but they are small and open. The island is well named,
Anticosti means "no landing". (Anticosti is privately owned and is organized as a hunting
preserve and lumbering operation. The timber is shipped out on the biggest timber barge you're
likely to see and loading it is big-time stuff.)
CAUTION In a region without other nearby harbours, Port Menier is a poor place to ride out a
gale. One can get beat to death at the commercial wharf in this harbour, which is open to
anything with south in its title. According to the locals, the waves in the harbour apparently kick
up in westerlies as well, as the waves resonate off the high Y-shaped wharf. The government has
offered to build an outer barrier for the inner harbour but those in control are afraid it might be a
navigational hazard to the giant wood-carrying barges that frequent the place. The locals
recommend staying off the wharf and anchoring just inside the entrance in the SE corner of the
harbour. In a strong gale, we tried tying to a fishing boat but it rode up and down at a different
cadence than we, so we moved aft to the dock and put out all the fenders we had. It was not a
pleasant night but we only sustained some minor superficial damage.
If you want to visit the national park part of the islands and see the multitudinous deer, it would
probably be best to leave your boat in the Havre St. Pierre marina and take the tour boat.
18
Anticosti Island, Baie Sainte-Claire
49 53.7’N, 64 30.2’W
Chart 4026, 4430
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
Opens 2M north of la Pointe de l’Ouest. Can
be
seen from a distance by the light (Fl5sec,
88ft, 21M) and, from 3.1M by a pylon 144m high with aircraft warning lights. Reefs and flat
rocks on both sides are visible at low tide. Align at 130 with two houses at the foot of the bay for
entrance.
Anchorage and Berths
Anchor in 12 feet. Shelter is good in south-westerly winds but the bay should be avoided in
winds from north and northwest.
Mingan
50 17.4’N, 64 01.3’W
Chart 4432
Jim Evans 2002, Eric Radin 2001 & 2003, Ned Cabot 2004
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
Entry is easy from east or west as there are ranges (288° or 066°) for each course.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
19
Anchorage and berths
The government dock shown in the above photo tends to be very crowded in summer, but there
is good anchorage a few yards to the east with dinghy landing at the dock or on the beach. The
tide flows fairly strongly off the dock but less strongly in this anchorage area, and holding
appears to be good. I had a Minke whale play around my anchor chain for half an hour here in
2002. Anchor lights are a must as there may be traffic at any hour.
In addition there are day anchorages around the Iles aux Perroquets (yes, there are puffins here)
and an anchorage in Anse Jos on the west side of Ile aux Bouleaux that is well sheltered except
from the south.
Ned Cabot 2004: The town of Mingan, located on the shore opposite the inside of the Ile du
Havre de Mingan, has good protection. There is a float inside the western end of the town dock,
which tends to have fishing boats tied up there. We anchored to the east of the town dock with
good holding in 2-3 fathoms, but care should be taken as the bottom shoals up rapidly near shore
2001 & 2003 Eric Radin: This is a National Park made up of rocky islands, some tree covered
that is a destination for cruise boats and many boat-owning Quèbecois. It contains some obvious
small, uninhabited harbours that are quite attractive. There is a small habitation at Mingan
Harbour, on the mainland at the eastern end of the islands, offering good holding ground for
anchoring about ¼ mile southwest of the government wharf in 10 feet of water. Watch out for
abandoned seabed rope cables from an old mooring pattern. The harbour is a quiet place, without
the bustle of Havre St. Pierre and seemingly less current. Mingan Harbour is protected by an
attractive offshore island. One can safely enter the harbour entranced between Ile Nue de Mingan
and Ile de Wreck. There are entrance buoys but not all the hazards are buoyed. However, the
range is accurate and avoids all dangers. This would not be an easy place to get in or out of in
limited visibility when the range can't be seen as the chart datum is pre-GPS and some of the
hazards do not show. There are no services available.
Jim Evans 2002 There is a lovely day anchorage on the
west side of Ile Nue de Mingan; anchor in 8 feet over
stony bottom which looks as though it would not give
good holding.
20
Facilities
The nearest store is a small supermarket at the Indian reserve a mile or so to the west. There are
more facilities in Havre St. Pierre, 17 miles east.
Remarks
Mingan is one of the gateways to the Archipelago de Mingan, a National Park and an area of
outstanding natural interest.
Havre St.-Pierre
50 14.2’N, 63 36.3’W
Chart 4429 (inset)
Jim Evans 2002, Ned Cabot 2004
Eric Radin 2001 & 2003
Directions
Approach from offshore
is straightforward and
well marked with buoys
and ranges for the large
vessels that use the
harbour to transport
ilmenite, one of the raw
materials from which
titanium is made
(Quèbec is the world's largest producer of this mineral).
Anchorage and Berths
Havre St. Pierre is the main centre of the area, and offers the inestimable advantage in bad
weather of a perfectly sheltered marina. The tide flows strongly across the entrance, though, so
take care when entering.
It is possible to anchor in good weather to the east of the marina but the bottom is reported to be
weedy and poor holding.
The public dock is usually very crowded and there is a very strong current.
It is recommended in the Guide Nautique not to anchor off the north side of Ile du Havre but to
go around to La Grande Anse on the east end of the island. However, by far the best anchorage is
in Baie Quarry, where there are government moorings.
Ned Cabot 2004
There appears to be no good anchorages anywhere in the roadstead outside the marina. The
marina inside the breakwaters is crowded with a narrow entrance and a small basin, but thee is
good water within and excellent protection. We were able to raft up at the marina. A slot is kept
open of the Coast Guard Rescue boat and the floats to the east are for the Park Service boats and
are not available. There is a floating pier at the fuel dock, which is convenient for fuelling, but is
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
21
not available for dockage.
Eric Radin 2001 & 2003: This harbour is behind Isle du Havre. It's a very commercial harbour
with a strong crosscurrent. There is a marina with good facilities and most needs are available.
Fuel can be delivered by truck and there is an airport for crew changes. Those wishing to anchor
are best advised to gunkhole in the Mingan Island National Park just to the west. The beauties of
this park are best seen from a boat anyway
Facilities
Jim Evans: In 2002 the marina lacked facilities except fuel – there was only a public toilet across
the road – but the staff are friendly and helpful and found me someone to do outboard repairs
promptly and at a reasonable price. Noel Lien reported "a very nice marina” in 2004. Facilities
include train, bus station, shops, restaurants, garage, hospital, bank and hotel. Boat tours to the
islands are available with guides for shore visits. Ned Cabot reported a bank, the liquor store, a
small hardware store and convenience store are all within a block of the marina. There is an
excellent supermarket further to the east, but it's a long walk for lugging groceries
2001 & 2003 Eric Radin: This harbour is behind Isle du Havre. It's a very commercial harbour
with a strong crosscurrent. There is a marina with good facilities and most needs are available.
Fuel can be delivered by truck and there is an airport for crew changes. Those wishing to anchor
are best advised to gunkhole in the Mingan Island National Park just to the west. The beauties of
this park are best seen from a boat anyway
Archipelago de Mingan
The archipelago is a unique and beautiful place and definitely not to be missed. It has some
amazing rock formations (some of those on Ile Quarry shown above), unique plant ecology and a
colony of puffins. Whales are common here. Information is available on the web or in Havre St.
Pierre.
22
There are many day anchorages around the islands, for example Havre Sauvage on Ile du Havre
and on the west side of Petite Ile au Marteau.
Ile à la Proie
Chart 4429
50° 13.2’N, 63° 48.1’W
Jim Evans 2002, Noel Lien 2000
Noel Lien: A great anchorage in a well protected bay (Baie Quarry) on the North side. In 2000
there were 5 free moorings here. The whole archipelago is a National Park and famous for its
limestone flower pots and sculptures carved out of the limestone by the currents and tides. There
is a house on shore that is open for anyone's use to get in out of the weather to cook. A large
wood cook stove was installed and put to good use. Lots of walking trails.
Jim Evans: In 2002 there was a young interpreter from the Parks Service who gave daily guided
tours in French and English.
Ile à Samuel
50 13.2’N, 63 44.2’W
Chart 4429
Jim Evans 2002
CAUTION Anse aux Loups Marins on the east side is less than satisfactory as an anchorage and
has a lot of rock slab and kelp. If the wind comes easterly you may have to leave (in the middle
of the night, of course) like I did. Anse au Noroit on the west side is better in quiet or easterly
conditions – good for a day stop.
Havre St. Charles
50 13’N, 63 20’W
Chart 4456
Jim Evans 2002
CAUTION
I went hard aground here in 25 knots of wind in
2002 in less than three feet right where the chart
says "Saint", and I didn’t find anything deeper
when I finally got free a few hours later. GPS
seemed accurate elsewhere so I suspect the bay has
silted in. My fault for not watching the depth
sounder on a falling tide…
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
23
Baie des Grès and Havre de Betchouane
50 13.8N, 63 12.3W
Chart 4456
Jim Evans 2002, Ned Cabot 2004
Directions
It is possible to pass through
into Havre Betchouane from
Baie des Grès in about 10
feet. Parallel the south-eastern
shore close to shore until
halfway across the gap, turn
hard to port and then hard-astarboard at the 3 fathom line.
The course is approximately
between the two western
rocks shown on the chart and
the rocks and small island in Havre Betchouane. I was given this information by a local sailor
and it worked for me. No guarantees offered!
Anchorage
There is reasonably sheltered anchorage in mud and rocks in both Baie des Grès and Havre de
Betchouane. Apart from this there isn’t anything there – not necessarily a condemnation.
Ned Cabot 2004: This is a wide open, but completely protected anchorage to the north of Ile a la
Chasse where we chose to ride out a predicted gale in 20 - 25 feet of water with excellent
holding. It cannot be entered from the west via Baie des Grès (it can- see above!). Entry from the
east is straightforward, taking heed of the shoals on the north side and passing to the north of the
very low Ile a Mouton.
NOTE: Chart 4452, Harbours and Anchorages – North Shore is essential for the following
harbours.
Baie Johan-Beetz
50 17N, 62 48.6W
Chart 4455, 4452
Jim Evans 2002, Ned Cabot 2004
Eric Radin 2001 & 2003
24
Directions
A huge (555 feet) microwave tower shows the
way from miles offshore. Approaching on a
course 043°T a lighted range becomes visible
onshore, then watch for the range (319°) in to the
dock keeping FlG C81, which marks a shoal, to
port. There is a light Iso R 2s on the north end of
the T-shaped dock.
Anchorage and Berths
Jim Evans 2002 There is room and depth enough for a boat up to about 45 feet on the inside of
the wharf. In a strong easterly this is the only good shelter (I had to share this spot with a 50-foot
longliner in 2002) as the swell comes in over the reef from the east and makes the east side of the
wharf untenable. I got in on the northern side of the pier with my 28-footer with 4’6” draught,
while the longliner lay inside the T; it was tight but sheltered. An anchorage is indicated in the
bay in 41/2 fathoms, but fishing boats come in here at all hours and good anchor lights would be
advisable. The head of the bay is used by small boats but is very foul.
CAUTION Ned Cabot 2004: This harbour offers no protection whatsoever from the south or
southwest. There is a public wharf on the west side, but one can only lie on the outside (but see
above), which is completely exposed and no place to be in any southerly blow. We tried to find
some shelter elsewhere in the harbour, but a sizable swell was rolling in, so we gave up and went
back out to sea.
2001 & 2003 Eric Radin: Watch the rock at the intersection of the two ranges going in, even
though there are buoys. The end of the "T" shaped wharf has 14-foot depths alongside and is
well protected. Be aware of the inside of this wharf (see above – it’s not as bad as it looks). The
road is paved to St. Pierre and beyond.
Facilities
There is a small store and a post office.
Remarks
Jim Evans 2002 The museum about Dr. Johann Beetz, after whom the bay is named, should not
be missed, as his is a wonderful story. The museum is set in his old house on the hill, still
furnished with his own furniture and decorations painted by him.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
25
The coast east from here is very foul inshore but still offers some possible anchorages. I was told
by local sailors that Baie Pontbriand and Baie Jalobert are both reasonable anchorages. The
paucity of soundings on the chart would indicate a cautious approach would be advisable.
Natashquan
50° 11.37N, 60° 50.6W
Chart 4454, 4428
Noel Lien 2004, Eric Radin 2001 &
2003
Noel Lien 2004
Natashquan: Literally the end of the road!
The North shore Highway ends here and
there were no further roads East on the North
shore of the Gulf. An open roadstead with a
long steel walled pier. No shelter. Difficult
to enter due to shoals and rocks awash and
discoloured water. Not much here
in any event. Except whales! We had one
Breach right beside the boat as we were
navigating a tricky channel between some
rocks! Heart in the mouth time! Friendly
people.
Eric Radin 2001, 2003 There are strong rip
tides on the approach, inside there is a range.
CAUTION Although there's quiet water off
the wharf we couldn't get our anchor to set in
the eelgrass.
According to Sailing Directions there is a grocery/hardware store, staffed dispensary, inn and
post office.
26
Baie Coacoachou
50° 13.3N, 60° 18.4W
Chart 4025, 4452
Noel Lien 2004 One of only a few marked anchorages on the North shore. Deep water all the
way in but a rock garden so follow the range!! A large well protected anchorage with a couple of
mussel beds. There was a Native summer camp up the river just to the West of the anchorage.
Friendly sort of but they didn't like us fishing their water!
Eric Radin 2001, 2003 Sailing Directions for the St. Lawrence River (ATL 110) describes a
great gunkhole in this bay. It's about ½ a days sail from Harrington Harbour
Cape Whittle
50° 11' N, 60° 07' W
Chart #4440
Eric Radin 2004 There is a lovely inside passage to the northwest of Isle St. Marie (50° 19'N.,
58° 39' W). Under the right conditions and proceeding with caution, for there are several well
charted but unmarked rocks, this is much more scenic than the outside passage.
Harrington Harbour
50° 30’N, 59° 29’W
Chart #4468
Alexander Weld 1985, Noel Lien and Eric Radin 2002, Michael Moore 2005.
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Harrington Harbour is a major community on this coast; it’s located on the southern tip of
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
27
Harrington Island and, as of 2005, seems to be thriving. The only safe entrance into the harbor is
between Entry Island and Schooner Island, as shown on the inset on chart #4468. This passage
is narrow, but there is plenty of water. Actually, the water in the harbor is too deep for easy
anchoring.
Anchorages and Berths
The Government wharf has at least 10 feet half way along both sides of the wharf. The
ferry/freighter, in 2005, arrives Thursday evening (going east) and again Saturdays (going west).
It docks on the south side of the wharf, since it hit a ledge to the north of the dock in the late
1990s. So it’s best to tie up on the north side of the wharf. One will probably want fender
boards and it’s a high climb up unless one can position oneself alongside one of the ladders.
Facilities
As of 2001 there is gas, diesel and fresh pond water available, as are most basic supplies - often
including fresh vegetables - all jammed into two small general stores. Amy Evans Boarding
House provides meals and showers and has a washing machine/dryer. The Harborside, a modest
restaurant, has simple food, a bar and pool table. There is a bank, post office and two B&Bs.
There is an active fish plant.
Air transportation is from Chevery, a “new” town 6 to 7 miles to the west, just up the Negagamu
River. A water taxi, a small runabout that carries 6 passengers plus baggage, makes the run back
and forth; it takes about 20 minutes. The taxi costs $15 per person, except evenings when it’s a
special charter when it’s $80. Reservations are advisable, call 418-795-3219. There is a 2 km
cab ride between the airport and marina in Chevery.
Remarks
Do climb to the radio tower for a spectacular 360 degree view.
The Quèbec-Labrador Foundation built a small swimming pool, primarily so that the children
will learn to swim. It is fresh water and can be as warm as 60 degrees on a sunny midsummer
day.
28
Passe Aylmer
50° 33’ N, 59° 23’ W
Chart 4468
(horizontal datum on this chart is significantly off)
Alexander Weld 1985
Louisa Harbour - This is a charming cove, with a towering rock wall on one side. Perhaps only
a lunch break, in settled weather or with easterlies.
Baie Salaberry - Our 9 1/2 foot draft was carried safely to an anchorage near the 3 fathom 4
foot spot shown on chart 4468 in the northern end of the western finger. We passed to the east of
the rocks in the middle of the bay, by the “S” in Salaberry. These rocks are exposed at low
water, but not at high tide; making negotiating past them much more disconcerting. On our
departure, we nosed into the unnamed finger to the southwest off this bay, where we had seen a
fisherman anchored the night before.
Havre de la Croix
50° 32’N, 59° 21’W
Chart 4468
Alexander Weld 1985, Michael Moore 2005
This harbor is located on the southern tip of Little Mecatina Island. It has a very narrow
entrance. Locals advise that a 6 foot draft would require a high tide entrance/exit. Otherwise,
once inside it’s a suitable harbor with good holding.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
29
Anse du Petit Mécatina
50° 33.5’N, 59° 18’W
Chart 4468
Michael Moore 2005
Go up the middle to the SW end and anchor in appropriate depth, mud and sand bottom.
Awesome rock formations with overhang on north of entrance.
Baie de la Tabatière
51° 10.6’ N, 59° 49.8’ W
Chart 4474
Alexander Weld 1985, Michael Moore 2005
Directions
It is an easy enough harbor to sail into, minding the buoys and range lights as marked on the
chart. But once off the fish plant the maneuvering space quickly diminishes. The plant was still
busy in 2005.
Anchorages and Berths
In 2005 the wharf was in moderate condition, the ferry docks at the northern end on Fridays and
Saturdays, which, when it’s not there, is quieter and cleaner than at the fish plant end.
During a strong northerly Alexander Weld moved north a few miles and entered Havre aux
Poissons from the north, running along the southern side of Ilet au Bois, to anchor to the west of
the island with good protection and holding.
30
Facilities
In 1997 the fresh water was good and fuel was available by truck. Basic supplies can be had
from several small general stores, the biggest being the Hudson Bay Companies store a short
walk from the fish plant along the road to the head of Baie Rouge - where the post office is also
located. We were advised that the rock shown in the middle of the entrance to Baie Rouge is
really there, only skiffs use this cove.
Havre Boulet
50° 46.8’N, 59° 01.8’W
Chart 4474
Michael Moore 2005
Havre Boulet lies on the northwest side of Ile de Mècatina. When approaching the northern
entrance favour the western side to avoid the rock that dries 3 feet, if it’s not visible. The
southern approach is shallow, but apparently clean. Anchor in the bight with good holding and
wooded bluffs on the mainland side.
Havre Du Gros Mécatina
50° 47.5’ N, 58° 51’ W
Chart 4474
Alexander Weld 1985
With a strong north wind we had difficulty anchoring in
less than 20 feet in the western cove of this harbor.
Editor’s comment: Havre Gaumont just round the corner
looks as though it offers an alternative anchorage in
winds from everywhere except east and northeast.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
31
Baie du Portage du Canot
51° 03’N, 58° 51’W
Chart 4474
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
The large bay to the south, as one enters this arm, is
deep right up to the shore, too deep for my
anchoring purposes. Instead we continued to the
head of the arm, carrying 20 feet all the way, for
good protection and good holding.
A path leads across to Baie des Ha! Ha!, or hike up
the hills to the south.
Rivière Kécarpoui
51° 04’ N, 58° 50’ W
Chart 4474
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
This area goes off chart 4474, but by following the east finger one can carry at least 10 feet along
the narrow passage, which opens into a small bay at the base of tall cliffs. Anchor in the
northwest corner, carefully avoiding rocks that are offshore from a cabin hidden in the woods
near the river’s mouth.
Petit Rigolet
Chart 4474 & 4473
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
This channel, behind islands of rock and fir and the
best part of 20 miles long, is deep enough for
steamboats, calm as can be, absolutely wild and
unspoiled. It’s a marvelous place to investigate.
It’s the best route between La Tabatiere and Grosse
Isle Tickle, far easier and more enjoyable than
fighting foul weather off shore. A sail along here is fun, and keeps you on your toes, as the wind
constantly changes direction. There are loads of places to duck into for a brief stop, or longer.
The vegetation is much thicker here than along the Grand Rigolet, making hiking ashore more
difficult. There are also more bugs.
To enter or exit Petit Rigolet’s western end it is recommended to use Passage Germain. This
passage looks narrow, as it is, but it is deep and the rocks appear to be accurately charted on
Canadian chart 4474. When approaching from the south “stay to the right when entering, and to
32
the left when leaving the passage”. There can be a knot or so of current.
Saint Augustin
51° 13.5’ N, 58° 38.5’ W
Chart 4473
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
It is impossible to reach St. Augustin in anything but a
skiff. Should one want to get there, anchor in Baie des
Oies and use an outboard, or the coastal ferry stops at a
dock on the north side of Ile de la Conserverie, marked
“public” on the chart.
A vast area of inland waterways exists to the east of Petit Rigolet’s eastern end. The
possibilities are endless. Given one’s inclination and the weather, one can find almost any type
of intrigue. It is possible to circumnavigate Ile des Genevriers, or use Passage de I’Ile au Sable,
or exit via the ship channel with lights on Ile de la Grande Passe. Having exited this area via the
narrow passages to the west of Ile Cumberland in good visibility and calm weather it is not all
that difficult. One does not want to try, I’m told, the short passage to the east of Ile Cumberland.
Only outboards can use it at high tide.
Grand Rigolet
Chart 4474 & 4473
Alexander Weld 1985
Grand Rigolet parallels Petit Rigolet, but more to the south and is more open although still
behind offshore shoals and islands.
Ile Lecouve
51° 02.5’ N, 58° 39’ W
We spent a night on the south side of this island, having entered via the deep water shown
through the islands off Ile Lecouve’s southwest corner, and anchored near the 4 fathom 2 foot
spot just north of the island 94 feet high. Walking around on Ile Lecouve was easy and
enjoyable. The off lying islands broke up a slight southwest swell, which provided us with a
quiet night.
Ile Monger
51° 05’N, 58° 41.5’ W
On this island’s eastern shore is an unnamed cove, to the northwest of Ile Newberry - at the
southern end of Passage Fournier. We missed the 2 fathom 2 foot area, rounded into the tiny
cove, and dropped the anchor nearly on the northern beach and fell back to the 3 fathom 2 foot
spot. The depth was there, but not the necessary swinging room. Had we stayed for more than
lunch and a hike ashore, I’d have wanted a second anchor or a line ashore.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
33
Bayfield Harbour to Cumberland Harbour
51° 12’ N, 58° 22’ W
Chart 4472
Bill Cook 1986
The narrow passage between Bayfield Harbour and Cumberland Harbour can carry at least 6 feet
at low water, BUT it is not as simple as chart #4472 suggests. When going from West to East, it
is necessary to keep well to the North shore as approaching the shallow East end. Once past a
shallow bar on the South side, turn back to the middle to avoid another bar off the North shore,
right at the East end. Good light is very useful here!
Although chart #4472 shows 11 feet in the middle of the SE cove of Cumberland Harbour, we
could not find less than 40 feet until close to shore, except in the mouth of the small indentation
34
on the NE side of this cove, where we were able to anchor with the heavy kedge in 25 feet.
Baie de Jacques Cartier
51° 17’ N, 58° 16’ W
Chart 4472
Alexander Weld1985, Noel Lien and Michael
Moore 2001
There are a number of fine anchoring possibilities within
this long bay, to include the very head of the bay in a
cove with 20-25 feet of water over a sand and mud
bottom, providing good holding and where the water is
very swimable. The chart shows 6 fathoms at the
narrowest point just north of Anse Scallop. Alexander
Weld didn’t find nearly that much water even at high
tide; but had at least 10 feet through at low tide. There is
also a noticeable current here. In 2001 a scallop farm
has closed the bays east of the electrical lines to
anchoring.
Anse du Portage
51° 14.5’ N, 58° 17.5’ W
In 2001 the houses on the southeastern side of this bay look like only weekend cottages. By
following the chart, 15 feet can be carried to the east of the small island in the southern part of
this bay. Anchor due south of the small island as the farther in one goes the deeper the water
then gets, the bottom is good sticky mud.
In 1985 this was one of the larger summer fishing communities on this coast.
The fishermen move out to it as soon as the ice left in June, their families come out for weekends
from St. Augustine.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
35
Baie de Brador
Chart 4470
Sally Richards 1997
Havre des Belles
Amours
51° 28’ N, 57° 27’ W
Bill Cook 1986, Michael
Moore 2004 & 2005
This harbor is located on
the mainland, on the
western end of Bradore Bay.
It is easy to enter with decent visibility. One must avoid the rock that dries 4 feet to the north of
Harbor Point.
In 2004 + 2005 the northern section of the harbor was filled with an extensive aquaculture
operation, blue balls in a line, paralle to the channel, with yellow balls marking each end of each
string. Leave all the gear close to starboard, until the last two strings which shoud be passed
between. On approach the amount of gear appears overwhelming, but you should find room to
pass and swing to anchor in the SW corner in 20 - 30 feet, with a good mud bottom.
36
La Falaise
51° 29.5’ N, 57° 15’ W
There is a red and white channel
marker 3/4 of a mile northwest
of Ile aux Perroquets and a range
marker at the end of the channel
leading north to La Falaise with
a true course of 005. This range
takes one safely between Rocher
Bull and Rocher Gull. There is a very nice anchorage on the west side of La Falaise. The north
side of this harbor has summer cottages, unoccupied when we were there, and a road leading to
Blanc Sablon. The cove shallows rapidly, but there is plenty of swinging room when anchored
in 20-foot depths. A spectacular waterfall is visible on the way in off to the north.
Baie de Blanc Sablon
51° 25’ N, 57° 08’ W
Chart 4020
There is air service to Blanc-Sablon as well as a ferry from St. Barbe, Newfoundland. An allyear road extends from Blanc-Sablon eastward and northward to the coastal towns all the way to
Cartwright (completion date for the last section to be by the end of 2002) and eventually to
Goose Bay.
Anchorage and Berths
The ferry from Newfoundland lies along the north side of the largest wharf, built in the 1970’s,
which has a fixed light on it. The ferry noses onto the ramp so vehicles can drive on and off.
One can lie at the L-shaped wharf, also built in the 1970’s, just to the north of the ferry wharf,
but the sheltered area behind it is small, and is often filled to capacity with fishing boats. There
are over 12 foot depths along the outside face and perhaps 6 feet on the south end and inside.
In 1985 the Government was building a 100-ton travel lift facility next to the inner small public
wharf. However, there is a large unmarked ledge due south of this area.
There is no protection here from southeast winds. The locals advise one to move to Havre à la
Frégate (Frigate Harbour) in Brador Bay (see above).
If heading to the west and a westerly is blowing, this is a good harbor to escape in. The Strait of
Belle Isle is famous for nasty westerlies, accompanied by a steep chop and adverse currents. Ile
au Bois protects the bay somewhat from the sea to the southwest, and the wharf gives further
protection. The Strait has a well deserved reputation for inclement conditions.
Facilities
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
37
The town of Blanc Sablon has nothing, although this will probably change, as all the freight
headed for coastal Labrador will be coming through here by truck. Until then, If you need
supplies go to Lourdes-de-Blanc-Sablon, which has a bank, hospital and stores. If you go by
boat, the red buoy (CY2) due south of that town was not in place in ‘85. Regardless, going in
there looked suitable for only a dinghy and at that only in calm weather.
L’Anse au Clair
51° 25’ N, 57° 04’ W
Chart #4020
John Harries 2000, Noel Lien 2001.
Directions
This harbor is located just 2 miles east of the Quèbec-Labrador border, about 3 miles east of
Blanc Sablon The approach is straightforward after the sea buoy is left to starboard.
Anchorage and Berths
There is good shelter and ample space behind the breakwater situated in the northwest corner of
the harbor. Wharf charges were $5.00 per night in 2000 with fresh water and electricity
available.
Facilities
A modern hotel and complete hardware store are in town.
38
Les Iles de la Madeleine
These islands are part of the Province of Quèbec and mostly French, although there is a small
remnant population of Scottish settlers on Entry Island. The islands are vividly green with red
cliffs and white beaches, dotted with small farms and brightly painted houses. There is very
much an "island" atmosphere to the place, as well there might be as the islands can only be
reached by air between January and April, when the Gulf is frozen.
The sheltered, shallow lagoons are popular with windsurfers and kitesurfers who are rarely
lacking for motive power here, but the sheltered eastern side of the islands also offers lovely
sailing in the prevailing south-westerly winds.
For those who are tempted by the small size and apparently low-lying nature of the islands to
rent a bicycle, be warned that the islands are much hillier than they look, and five miles against
the wind can be an awfully long grind. I speak from bitter experience (but it was worth it!).
The Quèbec government promotes a tourism concept known as “le corridor bleu”, covering the
St. Lawrence, Baie des Chaleurs and Iles de la Madeleine. A list of marinas and their facilities is
available in PDF format at http://www.sadcbc.ca/corridorbleu.pdf. However, judging by some
comments below this list should be taken with a good pinch of salt.
From south to north, clockwise, the harbours are as follows:
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
39
Millerand (Anse à la Cabane)
47° 13.0N, 69° 59.1W
Chart 4951
J. Hawkins 2004
This is a tiny, shallow artificial breakwater on the south shore of Ile du Havre Aubert. Due to
constant silting depths vary according to when it was last dredged. J. Hawkins reported that
wharfage in 2004 was free but there were no services except a small but good restaurant five
minutes’ walk away and basic groceries about 15 minutes away.
40
L’Etang du Nord
47° 22.2N, 61° 57.7W
Chart 4951
J. Hawkins 2004
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
The entrance from seaward is clearly marked with an R-W-G sector light and flashing lights on
the ends of the breakwaters.
Berths
This is a French-speaking fishing port and has adapted only minimally to the tourist trade.
Outside of fishing season there is room for several pleasure craft. Pleasure boats usually (not
always) tie on the north side of the main wharf. Wharfage in 2004 was Cdn$1.00/foot.
Facilities
There are no official facilities, but if you have a long enough cable you may be able to reach an
electrical outlet. Water is available if your hose is long enough. The washroom and shower (you
get a key) is locked at night and located a hundred yards from the wharf, attached to a good
restaurant open from breakfast through dinner. A classy tea room serving lunch, as well as tea
and pastry the remainder of the day, also has creative artwork, dolls etc. A lovely walk on the
bluffs by the sea, several kilometers long, starts from the wharf. Ice is a little more than two
kilometers away. The Co-op grocery was not open in 2004, the nearest alternative being in Cap
aux Meules. There is continual dock traffic.
(The list of marinas mentioned above makes this sound like a full-service marina, hence editorial
cautions about believing all you read in it).
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
41
Pointe du Cap
47° 31.8N, 61° 42.9W
Chart 4951
No personal information
This tiny breakwater wharf only has 3ft. alongside.
Cap du Dauphin
47° 37.7’N, 61° 30.8’W
Chart 4954
No personal information
Cap du Dauphin was named by Jacques Cartier. This is another tiny breakwater/wharf but had
6ft. alongside in the 1990’s. There is a fish plant operating here and the small village of Leslie so
it is probably still dredged.
The Sailing Directions suggest that this area offers good anchorage in southerly winds in good
holding, but this is of course directed more to ships than to yachts.
42
Old Harry
47° 34.26’N, 61° 28.03’W
Chart 4952
No personal information
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
The breakwater/wharf has 3 to 5 ft. alongside, but the sandy bay between Old Harry and Pointe
de l’Est (to the north) affords anchorage in winds between west and NE through north.
Grande Entrée
47° 33.4’N, 61° 33.5’W
Chart 4954
No personal information
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch,
Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Entry is via a dredged channel subject to silting but which is frequently used so should offer no
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
43
problems. The harbour itself is very busy with fishing craft in season (Jim Evans ran into the
fleet coming out of there one dawn in 2002 and it was hectic!) and has 6ft. inside the basin, 8 to
10 ft. alongside the outer wharf.
Havre aux Maisons
A marina is shown in Havre aux Maisons, a couple of miles north of Cap aux Meules, but access
to sailboats is blocked by a shallow approach and a fixed bridge. Depths in the marina are less
than 1.5 metres.
Cap-aux-Meules
47° 22.6N, 61° 51.4W
Chart 4956
(Jim Evans 2002)
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
The approach is clearly marked with a range from seaward. The entrance to the harbour is
marked with a FlR4s and QG (the front range marker) on the breakwater ends – however, the
marina is south of the harbour entrance and the entrance is marked with another FlR4s which
could lead to confusion. There are spots, which may be less than 2m in the marina, so deep draft
yachts should take care.
There is no obvious anchorage but in settled westerly conditions anchorage should be possible in
any of the bays south of the harbour in 2-3 metres, sand bottom.
44
Facilities
The marina has the usual facilities.
Cap-aux-Meules is the main town and administrative centre of the islands and has car and
bicycle rentals, windsurfing rentals, tours, restaurants, hotels, stores etc. It is also the ferry port
and the closest town to the airport (north of Havre aux Maisons) and can get surprisingly busy
when the ferry comes in. If you can’t get it here you can’t get it on the islands.
Havre Aubert
47° 14.4N, 61° 50.1W
Chart 4957
Jim Evans 1996, 2002
J. Hawkins 2004
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
From the north it is a delightful sail across the aptly named Baie de Plaisance until you pick up
the QR YK2. From there steer 033 for the QG on the end of Pointe a Fox. The channel is well
marked and free of dangers – as long as you stay in it.
From the east or south, Ile d’Entree is bold and easily identified in good visibility or by its
powerful lighthouses at night. Passage to the north of the island is straightforward. From the
south, be prepared to encounter currents and confused seas through La Passe, particularly in
wind against tide conditions. The tide sets SW on the flood. The passage is well marked and a
spectacular welcome to the islands. Make sure you are well clear of Point Sandy Hook before
turning towards the harbour, as its shoals extend a long way.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
45
Anchorage and Berths
There is an attractive marina on the north side of the harbour, with floating docks, power, water
etc. There is also a tourist development here which has turned the old net sheds into a street of
craft boutiques, smoked fish shops, cafes etc. Some of the stuff for sale is unique and highquality, and well worth a look. The channel shoals towards this marina but there should be at
least six feet, although the docks themselves are shallower towards the land.
In 2002 boats also docked alongside the wharf on the port side of the entrance. (J. Hawkins says
that this is a busy commercial wharf and there may be much commotion and not much privacy).
There are no facilities here, but it’s not far into the marina with a dinghy and even closer to the
fabulous beach along Dune Sandy Hook.
J.Hawkins: A third (and possibly quieter) berth is at the fish pier opposite Pointe Fox in the
channel leading to Le Petit Bassin. South of the last channel buoys (YK22 and 23) is a small
anchorage (called Havre Amherst on Chart 4957) with good holding in sand and mud.
Remarks
Most people find this a delightful harbour. There is an interesting marine museum ashore, where
you will find friendly folk with suggestions about what to see and where to go in the islands.
There is an excellent walk up to the cross on the hill above the harbour where there is a
panoramic view of the islands. The flats west of Sandy Hook have clams, while the nearly
deserted beach across the dunes is beautiful (although the water is cold) and is reputed to be a
favourite with nudists (goose bumps notwithstanding!). An international sand-castle building
competition is held during the first week in August.
Facilities
The marina provides water and electricity, showers, ice, telephone and a lounge for Cdn .75¢/ft.,
but no fuel. The staff is friendly and bilingual. The marina is open from the middle of June to the
first week in September. They monitor VHF 68 and the phone number is 418 937 5283. The
village has a good seafood restaurant/bar and a grocery store (depanneur) where beer and wine
may be bought. There is a bakery, and fresh seafood is available.
Ile d’Entrée
47° 16.7’N, 63° 43.1’W
Chart 4951
J. Hawkins 2004
Directions
(Jim Evans) The island is easily identified from north, east
or south by the high red cliffs. The channel between Ile du
Havre Aubert and Ile d’Entrée tends to kick up a bit,
particularly in wind against tide conditions (the flood sets south).
46
A long shoal stretches northeast from Dune Sandy Hook, while rocks lie off the tip of Ile
d’Entrée.
(J.Hawkins) To enter, find red buoy YM12. Leave it well to port. Track toward the bluff which
faces the water south of the harbour until the entrance opens up, then go straight in.
Remarks
Ile d’Entrée is noted for its high hills and the trails up to the top where you get a lovely view of
the islands, and Cape Breton on a clear day. The harbour is small, but has enough turning room
for small craft. Tour boats come and go all day bringing hikers from Cap aux Meules. The dock
nearest to the breakwater is reserved for these boats but can be used by pleasure boats for brief
periods or after the last hikers leave for the day. A dock attendant takes the name and address
and the town sends wharf bills by mail. There is no electricity or water. A poorly-maintained
public bathroom is at the top of the wharf. A number of English-speaking families live here.
Island teenagers whoop it up until about 11 pm on the breakwater. The island makes a good
departure point for Cape North or Cheticamp.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
47
Prince Edward Island, including the Northumberland
Strait
This chapter covers Prince Edward Island and the Northumberland Strait from the Strait of
Canso west to Miramichi. Those Nova Scotia ports that are likely to be visited in the course of a
cruise to the Island or the Strait are included. The Northumberland Strait Yachting Association
runs a site, which includes cruising information, at http://www.nstya.com/.
Prince Edward Island
Prince Edward Island is Canada’s smallest province, but it offers some fine cruising. Much of it,
though, is best enjoyed by those with less than six foot draft and some of it is limited to those
with much less.
The Northumberland Strait and east coasts have most of the harbours suitable for keelboats,
although there are some interesting destinations on the north shore. The west coast offers little
more than a nasty lee shore!
Although PEI is Canada’s most densely populated Province it is still uncrowded - except perhaps
in Charlottetown on a summer afternoon. Big stores are limited to Charlottetown and
Summerside, but you should be able to find most things in the smaller places. Be aware that
Sundays are still very much respected on the Island and all major stores are closed for the day.
Some tourist businesses and smaller grocery stores will be open, at least for the afternoon, as will
restaurants and most gas stations. Charlottetown has regular flights to major centres (direct to
Montreal, Toronto and Halifax); the Island can also be reached by ferry from Caribou and by the
world’s longest bridge over seasonally-frozen water, the Confederation Bridge. All of Prince
Edward Island’s libraries have broadband Internet access and will let you use a terminal if you
need to check e-mail or whatever. The Island has a remarkable range of musical talent, from
country to classical, and there are ceilidhs everywhere. If you check one out you won't regret it.
Many fishing harbours have someone who stocks basic boating stuff - it’s always worth asking
around, and you’ll find in the process that Islanders are a friendly and helpful bunch. In many of
the smaller harbours you will have to lie alongside a fishing boat. They won’t mind as long as
you don’t mind being woken very early in the morning - and as long as you take your own lines
in to the shore as they do, so they can leave without having to re-tie everything. It goes without
saying that big fenders are de rigueur. Island lobster boats don’t have much in the way of cleats typically just a ring on the bows, a recessed cleat on the quarter, and a loop of line or a hole in a
deck knee under the side deck that you can tie on to. If you’re coming alongside a lobster boat
short-handed it helps to have a short line made fast amidships so you can jump aboard the other
boat and get your boat under control by tying to this deck knee quickly while you run your lines
ashore. An old fisherman gave me this tip and it's a good one. You are unlikely to be asked to
pay in these little places.
This guide covers the whole island, clockwise from the eastern end of the Northumberland Strait.
I haven’t sailed into all the harbours described, but I have had a good look at them from the shore
and I’ve noted that in the text where applicable.
The Canadian Power and Sail Squadrons, Blue Heron Squadron, runs a “Cruising PEI” site at
http://www.blueheroncps.pe.ca/CruisingPEI.htm
48
The diagram above shows fishing areas around the Northumberland Strait. Opening times vary
from year to year and area to area, so it is worth contacting the Department of Fisheries and
Oceans at http://www.glf.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/who-qui/part-part-2/mana-gest-e.html for details. They
can also give information about the northern Gulf.
Northumberland Strait Ports of P.E.I.
Canadian Chart 4023
CAUTION Although only 75 miles or so long and no more than 25 miles wide, the tide and
winds funnel through the Strait and can kick up some surprisingly nasty seas and nasty weather,
particularly in wind against tide situations. According to the Sailing Directions currents at the
Bridge are related to tides at Yarmouth Nova Scotia, but they are also subject to weather
influences and to an offshoot of the Gaspé Current that lends an overall east-flowing component.
Generally, though, the major portion of the tidal current seems to run in from either end of the
Strait on the flood, meaning that with a little luck it may be possible to carry a fair tide right
through if you’re not stopping. The current is often less in the middle of the Strait than along the
edges; in particular, it’s worth keeping well clear of Cape Bear and West Cape. Along the east
side of the island flood tides run south and the ebb runs north, while south and east of North
Cape the ebb runs south.
Tugs with gravel barges in tow (a long way behind, and often not brightly lit), cruise ships, bulk
carriers and oil tankers may be encountered in the Strait.
This section covers harbours from east to west.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
49
Wood Islands
45º 57.1N, 62º41.2W
Canadian Chart 4483 (inset)
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
The sketch is upside
down relative to the
above photo.
50
Directions
Approach from the east is unobstructed, but when approaching from the west Rifleman Reef and
Bell Point Reef should be noted and Indian Rocks given a wide berth. It is possible to pass inside
Indian Rocks with care. Caution is advised when entering or leaving, as the ferries come in and
out at full throttle. A securité call to ask about the ferry's intentions may be a good idea.
Anchorage and Berths
This is the rather unlovely northern terminal for the ferry to Nova Scotia, but it offers welcome
shelter on a nasty day. The photo is looking south, and the small-craft dock is to the left in the
photo and right in the sketch (the east side). The sides are sheet metal pilings, so it helps to have
good big fenders and/or a fender board.
It is possible to dock inside the l-shaped pier of the small-craft dock for best shelter but the
entrance is shallow. If docking outside of the L-shaped pier avoid the southern face as it is open
to wake and prop-wash from the ferry. The best shelter is found as far in as possible.
Remarks
There isn’t much here, although you can visit the lighthouse and there are some facilities at the
ferry terminal including washrooms and cafeteria, and Crabby's seafood bar closer to the dock.
There is a tourist information centre and a liquor store half a mile up the road together with one
of the termini of the Confederation Trail, a biking/hiking trail that criss-crosses the Island on old
rail beds.
Pinette River
46º 02.7N, 62º 17.1W
Canadian Chart 4466
Jim Evans 2005
The entrance to Pinette River is shoal and exposed to
the south - safe enough in calm weather or in winds
with a bit of north, but you could find yourself stuck if
a strong sou’westerly blows up.
Directions
The approach is across the bar via a range on Pond
Point and then up the channel. There is a green buoy to line you up with the range; the back
marker is only visible in direct line of sight. The channel is then well marked but some of the
buoys are very small. There is a minimum of seven feet all the way in at low tide.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
51
Anchorage and Berths
The first dock you come to is McAuley’s Wharf to port (below). This is well sheltered but has
less than a couple of feet of water in the
entrance.
At the head of navigation - the road
bridge, bottom - there is another public
dock, this one having around seven feet
alongside but a strong current and fairly
open to the south west, although the banks
break any severe waves. (South-west is to
the left in the photo below, to the right in
the photo above).
Photos: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Anchoring is only possible in the channel,
again in a strong current. I tried it for an
afternoon and holding seemed good. A
Bahamian moor and good anchor light
would be advisable if you're staying
overnight.
Facilities
There aren’t any facilities close to either
dock, although the Pinette Raceway
(trotting Wednesday nights) is a few
hundred yards east along the main road.
Hillsborough Bay
Canadian Chart 4466
Jim Evans 2005
Hillsborough Bay is a fine big expanse of water, and quite beautful, surrounded by green hills
and low red shores - but the water's spread rather thinly. There is good anchorage to the north of
St. Peter’s Island (St. Peter's Roads) - a surprisingly sheltered spot as the half-tide bar blocks
swells even when covered. Holding is good.
CAUTION Beware of the spit that projects northward a long way from the island.
From the chart it looks as though there might be anchorage in Pownal Bay in fair weather -
52
shelter from all directions except south, but anchorage limited to areas a long way from shore
and Orwell Bay in easterly conditions.
Charlottetown
46º13.8N, 63º 07.3W
Jim Evans 2004, 2005
Directions
The approach to Charlottetown is straightforward: there are huge, brilliantly lit ranges for the
benefit of oil tankers and gravel barges (P.E.I. has to import all its gravel!) and the occasional
large cruise ship (the photo above is of one at the marine terminal). The range lights make night
entrance easy, although it can be difficult to identify the marinas against the city lights.
CAUTION Beware of moorings near the Yacht Club if you enter at night – the moored boats are
very hard to see.
Anchorage and Berths
There are two docking choices: Charlottetown Yacht Club and Peake’s Quay (right above).
There is possible but unlovely anchorage in the North and West Rivers - both are subject to
strong currents. You could also anchor off the moorings near the Yacht Club.
Remarks
The Delta Prince Edward, just around the corner from the Yacht Club, is a fine hotel and offers
excellent meals at surprisingly reasonable prices. The Gahan House Pub on Sidney Street has
superb mussels, the best fish and chips anywhere and great micro-brewery beer, too. There is a
good art cinema (the City Cinema) and regular exhibitions, shows and concerts at the
Confederation Centre of the Arts. The library at the Confederation Centre has current periodicals
etc. and Internet access, and there is a street of cafés on Victoria Row which includes an Internet
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
53
café. There are lots of gift shops and restaurants.
Unfortunately Charlottetown is not a good place to re-supply unless you want to spring for a cab,
although thee is a bus service now, as there are no supermarkets nearby. There is a big Atlantic
Superstore (President's Choice foods) on University Ave. at Belvedere and the usual big-box
stores plus department stores at the top end of University.
Canadian Hydrographic Service charts are available from the bookstore at the Confederation
Square Mall downtown.
Facilities
Both marinas have restaurants and fuel, water and electricity, showers and laundry and are very
close to downtown. The Yacht Club is friendlier and a little quieter, while Peake’s Quay is
surrounded by tourist-oriented shops and often has bands, dancers and so on. The Yacht Club has
been known to get raucous on weekends, too.
Peake's Quay has the better shelter (the Yacht Club was devastated by Hurricane Juan in 2003
but is fully repaired). The Yacht Club has a nominal 10,000 lb hoist (which couldn’t handle my
Freedom 28’s nominal 7,000 lbs). A heavy crane (Brown's Crane Service) is available in town
and Quartermaster Marine at Peake's Quay has a hydraulic trailer.
If you need chandlery there is a very limited selection at Quartermaster Marine at Peake’s Quay.
There is a much better selection at Atlantic Warehousing on Garfield Street - about a mile east
along the bypass.
Victoria
46º 12.7N, 63º 29.3W
Canadian Chart 440502
Jim Evans 2005
54
Directions
Victoria is approached via a winding but fairly well-marked channel between shoals which give
some shelter to the wharf. The channel moves frequently and the buoys may or may not show the
best channel. CAUTION A rising tide approach is a good idea: there may be much less than five
feet in the channel at dead low. In 2005 the bank protruded well west of the last red buoy and the
channel nearly dried at low springs.
Victoria has the largest tidal range along this shore: over 8.5 ft. at springs.
Anchorage and Berths
Berthage ($16 in 2005) is against the wharf and may be crowded. Best shelter is on the east side
except in easterly winds, outer end for best depth. Even where the chart shows seven feet beside
the wharf my 4’6” was firmly aground on a minus tide. Shelter is very good at low tide but the
wharf is less secure from the south and southeast when the banks cover, although they still break
major waves. There is no anchorage. Power (15A) and water points are on the wharf.
Remarks
Victoria claims to be the prettiest town in somewhere or other - and it is a lovely little place.
Facilities
The restaurant on the wharf is good and there's a pub (live music Saturday nights - a detraction if
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
55
you want a quiet night, and the patrons tend to use your decks as an ashtray). There’s an
excellent second-hand book shop if you need to replenish the ship’s library, a playhouse with
summer theatre, and lots of craft shops, antique stores, a great chocolate shop and cafés. There's
also good clamming and walking on the flats and a little beach near the wharf for the kids. Ice
(the shaved fisherman's kind) is available by the bucket from the seafood store and fish plant (the
white building east along the shore road). The nearest grocery store, though, is in Crapaud over a
mile away.
Borden
46º 14.7N, 63º 41.9W
Canadian Chart 4905
Jim Evans 2003
Directions
The harbour at Borden is the former ferry dock and is almost in the shade of the new bridge to
the mainland. The entrance is clearly marked by buoys and a range (027 1/2º) between the
harbour wall and a separate breakwater. The harbour is easy to enter in any conditions.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a public dock, although only the outer part is deep enough for a sailboat, and holding is
good for anchoring. Shelter is not quite as good as you might expect, as waves seem to reflect
into the harbour from the breakwater in some conditions, but it is safe and a welcome port on a
nasty day.
Facilities
No facilities unless you walk up to the tourist shops, gas station etc. at the bridge toll terminal about a mile away.
56
Summerside
46 23.25N, 63 47.2W
Chart 4406, 4459
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
The approach is well marked by lighted ranges and buoys and is straightforward in all conditions
or at night.
Anchorage and Berths
The Silver Fox Yacht and Curling Club (one way to make the most of our Canadian seasons!)
has a large marina (above photo). CAUTION Anchorage is available in the Dunk River but the
channel is unmarked, holding is poor and there is a mysterious current that wraps rodes around
keels....
Remarks
There is a good selection of shops and restaurants including all the usual fast food outlets.
Spinnakers Landing has gifty places and ice-cream and often offers free concerts.
Summerside has made a major effort in recent years to improve its waterfront and in 2005 it will
be completing a walkway the length of the waterfront. The town still lacks cohesiveness, though.
While it may not be the Provincial capital there is plenty of culture on offer, including regular
concerts by the College of Piping and in the large cultural centre close to the Yacht Club.
Facilities
The marina has water and power on the docks and gas and diesel, as well as a bar, showers and
laundry.
The large mall just outside the Yacht Club seems to have been affected by Wal-Mart-itis: it's
eerily dark and half empty, and the supermarket is a cut-price place with rather limited selection:
good for stocking up on catering-size quantities, bad for gourmet stuff.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
57
West Point
46º 37.1N, 64º 22.3W
Canadian Chart 4905
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
I could not see an entrance range (although there is one in the undated photo above) but a
daymark on the end of the pier shows the entrance and three red buoys indicate the way in. There
is a minimum of about 6 feet on the way in and more in the harbour.
Anchorage and Berths
Tie to the harbour wall. No anchorage.
Remarks
West Point has recently been extensively improved. It is a secure harbour with plenty of room.
Fishing is evidently not too successful here - there were only eight boats and none of them went
out in the morning. Perhaps the little fleet scouring the West Reef for scallops had something to
do with it...
Facilities
There is a small snack bar and convenience store with a very limited selection at the harbour but
there is a good restaurant up in the black-and-white banded lighthouse that you can see from the
harbour: first left out of the harbour or walk along the beach.
58
West Coast of PEI
The following harbours are approached over very shallow bars and have very little water inside. I
have only shore experience of them. They are really only suitable for shoal draft power craft.
Howard's Cove (Seal Point)
46° 44.4N, 64° 56.5W
Canadian Chart 4906
Miminegash
46° 52.7N, 64° 14W
Canadian Chart 4906
Skinners Pond
46° 57.9N, 64° 22.75W
Canadian Chart 4906
North Shore of PEI
Tignish
46° 56.2N, 63° 59.4W
Chart 4023, Diagram in Sailing Directions
Tignish has a long, shallow (2 metres in the entrance but less than a metre at the exit from the
breakwaters into the harbour proper) and very narrow entrance between long breakwaters. It
doesn't look like a good prospect except perhaps in calm conditions at slack high water: turning
around once committed may be difficult. However, some of the wharves have over 2 metres
alongside.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
59
Alberton (Northport)
46º 47.7N, 64º 03.4W
Canadian Chart 4023, 4492
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
CAUTION Northport is the best harbour between Souris and Summerside - but is approached
over a bar that is reputed to be impassable in some conditions of wind and tide (several lives
were lost in a fishing boat capsize and rescue here about 15 years ago). In good conditions there
are reported to be no problems; the Sailing Directions say that currents in the entrance are
typically less than 1 1/2 k, but can exceed 4 k. I entered at what according to Visual Navigator
was low slack in a south-easterly 15 knots and encountered well over four knots ebb, four to six
foot breaking waves and, to add to the fun, two buoys way off station and, apparently, no
entrance range! It was too hairy to turn around and very scary. The final range, at the dock, was
very hard to see against afternoon sun. I guess this was one of the exceptional circumstances
referred to in the Directions. I asked a fisherman about tide times and he had no idea: oh, for all
that power!
The following day I watched the current and the ebb seemed to continue for well over 8 hours.
The moral is undoubtedly to avoid spring tides if at all possible and to take tidal predictions with
a grain of sea salt.
On leaving, again in a southeasterly but at slack tide, it was a little bumpy but no trouble at all. A
missing light had been replaced on the front range (I had taken the back one for an errant street
lamp!).
The entrance changes constantly.
Anchorage and Berths
Northport has floating docks, (berthage $12 plus GST), and claims to offer marina services with
power (15A), water and showers, but all there was at the end of June was wall-to-wall fishing
boats with no place at all except to raft alongside. I saw no sign of the harbourmaster, so at least
it didn’t cost anything. The floating docks are in the first dock that you come to upon entering the top dock in the photo above.
60
The bay north of Fox Island is a snug spot but partly filled with mussel rafts. A pair of ospreys
was raising a family on the island in 2005. There is a real hurricane hole at the top of the Dock
River, just past Dock Creek, with excellent holding; I rode out a very severe thunderstorm here.
This anchorage should also be convenient for getting into Alberton by dinghy, although I'm not
sure where you'd get ashore. Beware of buoyage in Cascumpeque Bay: it seems designed to lure
the unwary onto the shoals! The apparent shortcut around Berry Head is less than the four feet
shown.
Remarks
Northport is about 105 miles from Havre Aubert in the Iles de la Madeleine or 95 miles from
Etang du Nord, making it a potential jumping-off point for the islands.
There is a tourist centre at the dock with restaurant, gift shops, washrooms and a history of some
of the more alarming shipwrecks of the area (up to as recently as 1984 when some fishing boats
capsized negotiating the harbour entrance, with tales of bravery and loss of life). There is also a
quite large hotel. Ice is available from the fish plant but it is a long walk to Alberton for
groceries.
CAUTION: All the north shore bays have shallow, constantly-changing entrances that are
open to northerly swell and wind. The only conditions for a safe entrance for those not
familiar with the entrances would be in light conditions with offshore wind and no swell:
and then you may have to wait for the same thing to get out again.
I had hoped to visit the following harbours in 2005 but a big swell was coming in off the Gulf
and instead I was faced with a 24-hour trip round to Souris.
MalpequeBay
46° 35N, 63° 37W
Chart 4023, 4491
The entrance to Malpeque Bay doesn’t look bad (if you
consider ten feet over constantly shifting shoals in a
channel which is completely blocked by breakers in
bad weather not bad). The Sailing Directions consider
the latest information essential for safe entry. Currents
may be strong in the channel.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
61
New London Bay
46° 31,8N, 63° 28.2W
Chart 4023, 4467
(Shore information only Jim Evans 2005)
CAUTION Yachts do get into New London Bay; I saw a 35-40 footer anchored here in 2005.
However, I talked to a fisherman in Rustico and he said that his boat regularly hits bottom in the
entrance with about four-foot draft. He didn’t think much of the idea of taking a keelboat into
there…
The bar into Tracadie Bay has less than 5 feet.
St. Peter’s Bay
46º 26.8N, 62° 44.3W
Canadian Chart 4425
(Shore information only Jim Evans 2004)
CAUTION The entrance to St. Peter’s Bay is narrow, twisting and exposed, but it is well
marked. Once in it is possible to get nearly up to the village of St. Peter’s, where there is a
garage and a couple of restaurants. A powerboater I spoke to commented that he had found the
entrance scary, so it is probably not recommended for sailboats except in very favourable
conditions. The Greenwich National Park nearby is well worth a visit, though: spectacular dunes,
wonderful beaches and a lovely trail through a little forest and across the marshes via a floating
boardwalk.
CAUTION The harbours at Naufrage and North Lake are both blocked by low bridges –
even lobster boats have to lower their antennas.
62
East Shore of PEI
Souris
46° 20.86N, 62° 15.3W
Chart 4403, 4419
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
CAUTION Watch for the
Magdalen Islands ferry and
for smaller craft appearing
around the end of the high
breakwater as you
approach or leave. There
are no dangers in the
approaches. The marina is
at the head of the first
(southernmost) dock.
Anchorage and Berths
Souris is one of the best harbours on the island, but primarily geared for large vessels although a
marina has now been built. The surroundings are still rather industrial although efforts are being
made to clear things up. Shelter has not always comfortable in the past although the new docks
should help as they are in the most sheltered corner of the dock. There is no anchorage
Facilities
There are now new showers, washrooms and laundry (all wheelchair accessible). Electricity and
water will be installed to all docks; the infrastructure is in place. The marina is investigating an
arrangement to supply fuel (gas and diesel) from the fishermen's dock. Berthage rates had not yet
been fixed in June 2005. If you need help or information Eric Gallant (687-1891 (home) or 9692262 (cell)) is a sailor and member of the marina committee.
Souris has a big travel-lift (capable of lifting draggers) which is available to yachts - call Peter
Boertien, (902) 687 3455 for a lift. He is a skilled and careful operator and will arrange shoringup for a boat.
Winter storage is available on the docks here for a reasonable fee but the location is very
exposed. Mast-up storage is not recommended as boats have been damaged and tarps (unless
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
63
heavy, well fitted and well tied down) aren’t likely to last long. This is a cold place in the spring
- don’t plan on starting your season much before the middle of May. Harbourmaster is Art
Robichaud Jr. - usually available on his cellphone at (902) 969 2611 or at home at (902) 687
3835 .
There is a marine equipment store (Lea-Mac Marine& Electronics (902) 687 3225) at 81 Main
Street. T&G Welding (687-1666) does aluminum welding and Eastern Upholstery (687-1520)
close by can make sail and canvas repairs and excellent heavy-duty winter covers.
Remarks
About a mile uphill (turn left at the junction at the top of the hill) is a shopping plaza with a
supermarket, hardware store and pharmacy. There is a small greasy spoon near the docks and a
couple of restaurants downtown. The Bluefin, a family restaurant, is the best: take the left turn at
the bottom of the hill. It's a pleasant walk of about half a mile.
The ferry to the Iles de la Madeleine leaves from here, making Souris a possible crew-change
point. This is the best jumping-off point for the 73-mile passage to the Iles de la Madeleine - a
reasonable overnighter (or a possible day trip for a fast boat) from here.
Fortune Bay
46° 19.7N, 62° 20.93W
Chart 4403 - there is no detailed chart.
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
64
Directions
There is a green buoy NC1 and three reds (2 of which have R lights) close inshore. There is also
a sector light on the north breakwater - it is low-powered and only operates at night. The
channel has about six feet or a little less at low tide and deepens once between the breakwaters.
The north breakwater is ruinous except for the inshore part, which is very shoal.
Anchorage and Berths
The northern side of the narrowest part of the entrance (north is at the bottom in the photo above)
has about 10 feet. On the south side there is a small dock with 4-5 feet inside, soft mud, deeper
outside. There is a buoyed channel leading to Fortune Bridge - a couple of miles upstream - but it
was a falling tide and I didn't risk it although it is reported to have 10 feet all the way up. It is
tortuous and barely a couple of boat-lengths wide.
CAUTION Holding anywhere inside the harbour entrance is poor, in very soft mud and thick
weed. Just outside you might find reasonable holding and shelter in westerly conditions.
Remarks
There are no facilities but this is a very pretty and peaceful spot which would make a pleasant
alternative to Souris if one didn't need any services. The beautiful Inn at Bay Fortune is a short
walk and offers fine dining and accommodations in lovely surroundings. There is reputed to be
excellent take-out food about three miles away – I was offered a ride to try it!
Annandale
46º 15.4N, 62° 25.4W
Canadian Chart 4421
Jim Evans 2003
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
65
Directions
The entry over the bar into Annandale looks scarier on the chart than it is in fact, in good weather
at least. There is a very high and conspicuous back range on the shore, although the much-lower
front range is hard to see. The channel buoys are changed from time to time although the
published chart was fairly accurate in 2003. There are now two small docks – the lower dock
shown above has been extended. North is at the left in the photo.
CAUTION The water is shoal just outside and in the entrances of these docks - entry or exit at
less than half tide may be difficult - but there is enough to lie inside with at least five feet at all
states of the tide. You will probably have to lie alongside a fishing boat. Lie with bows toward
the entrance if at all possible as a chop can come in from the south.
Remarks
There are no facilities - just a charming hamlet of a dozen houses and some very friendly locals
who would probably give you a ride somewhere if you needed anything. Ask at one of the
houses if you need to fill a water jug or use a phone.
The Boughton River is deep enough for exploration for about six miles upstream but there is a
nasty series of unmarked shoals just beyond the harbour and strong currents in this area which
may discourage the cautious.
Launching Bay
46 12.1N, 62 25.5W
Chart 4403, 4422
Jim Evans 2005
Remarks
This is a lovely spot and would offer a charming anchorage behind a long, shallow, grassy dune
which joins Boughton Island to the main island.(shown as covering on my chart but clearly high
and dry) – if most of the available area were not full of mussel buoys and if they had not
encroached on the channel with very poorly marked buoys that make the approach quite
hazardous. The main thing to remember is that the yellow buoys are actually on both sides of the
channel, although it’s hard to tell which is which and there are a few errant white floats in the
middle to add to the confusion. Trust your depthsounder and GPS – and have a sharp knife handy
if you venture in; I, for one, have little sympathy for this misuse of aquaculture as others have
proved that it can be done responsibly elsewhere in the area.
66
Three Rivers Area
Canadian Chart 4422
Georgetown
46° 10.6N, 62° 32W
Jim Evans 2003, 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Remarks
Georgetown is an attractive little place but lacking in most facilities, although it does have a
playhouse and a gas bar and mini-market on the Main Street. In contrast to the 1992 report in the
Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia, the Georgetown Shipyard is now thriving, building big tugboats
for the Panama Canal and other places, and there is a branch of Holland College (welding
training - perhaps a source of welding expertise if you need it?).
The Fishermen’s Wharf has recently been enclosed and is now well-sheltered but often chockfull of fishing boats. It’s possible to tie up outside the wharf in settled weather. Anchorage is
available to the west of the wharves in reasonable shelter except from the SE. Check with the
harbourmaster if you need diesel or water, as he will be able to supply you from the Railway
Wharf.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
67
Cardigan River
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
The Cardigan River is to my mind the most beautiful of the three rivers and easily navigated to
the road bridge at its head. There are a lot of mussel-growing facilities (although fewer than in
the other two rivers) but they are well marked with red and green buoys and the channel is easily
seen - in fact, the mussel farms delineate the best channel quite clearly.
Anchorage and Berths
There are several well-sheltered anchorages (the little bay inside NJ15 has a nice beach) and a
brand-new marina at the head of navigation. The current runs very fast between the floating
docks and fixed wharf at the marina.
Facilities
The marina has showers, laundry, water and electricity.
There are two restaurants: the Gulnare (named for the 147-foot barque that was one of the
biggest ships built here), which features a splendid water view, live music several nights a week
and draught British beer - and Cardigan Lobster Suppers. If you need serious work done, or
bearings and oil seals, there is a machine and welding shop - Cardigan Bearing and Steel - just
up the hill. There are two garages and a small store right by the bridge, and a liquor store close
by.
68
Brudenell River
Jim Evans 2005
Anchorage and Berths
There is a marina at the large resort on the north bank, with all the usual facilities plus access to
the resort restaurant and an excellent golf course.
It is often possible to anchor in behind the mussel rafts provided one does not leave too much
scope out.
Montague
46 10N, 62 39W
Chart 4422
Jim Evans 2005
Montague is the main centre of this end of the island and offers most facilities.
Anchorage and Berths
The marina at Montague has ample depth, although manoeuvring room is limited and there is a
strong tidal current at the docks (arriving on a rising tide makes docking easier). However, the
75-foot Palawan managed to get alongside here in 2003. Manoeuvring into the fuel dock is
particularly tight. Diesel and gas are available at the fuel dock (by the small hut on the
waterfront).
Large quantities of sea-lettuce are often swept down the river and may block water intakes.
There is no anchorage by the town but there is room around the first bend downstream on the
north side (there are several private moorings here).
There is also a wharf at Lower Montague with about ten feet alongside, well sheltered except
from the north, but it is busy in lobster season and busy with mussel farming activities the rest of
the time. Anchorage close by is reasonably sheltered if you don't want to go up the river. No
facilities
Facilities
There is water and power to all docks and showers, although the shower room is attached to a
public washroom. Gas and diesel are available at the fuel dock. There is a small restaurant in the
visitor centre but I have not found food or service to be good.
Harbourmaster Jock Beck is a fount of good advice on the area.
Remarks
There is a large hotel above the marina, a restaurant (Windows on the Water) by the road bridge,
with a fairly ambitious menu and a view of the marina from its deck, and a large selection of fast
food up town. Doc Johnston's diner, across the bridge and up the hill a little way, offers good
hearty fare and solid breakfasts. The closest supermarket is Sobey’s (1/4 mile up the hill), with
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
69
Atlantic Superstores about half a mile further; the DownEast Mall opposite has a Radio Shack.
There are two large hardware stores and several banks close to the marina, but the liquor store is
a few miles out of town.
If you need engine spares or parts, try King’s Auto Parts on the main drag just up the hill. They
supplied a starter pinion for my Yanmar the next day.
Laundry facilities are available at Lane’s Cottages (first street on the right up from the marina).
There is another laundromat in the DownEast Mall but it’s a pretty grubby sort of joint.
Graham’s Pond
46° 05.73N, 62° 27.1W
Canadian Chart 4023
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
There is a red and white buoy about ½ mile east of the entrance. Steer directly towards the group
of buildings on shore. There is a red buoy at the entrance marking a rock pile, but the entrance
itself is clear of obstructions.
Anchorage and Berths
There is about 5 feet in the channel and harbour – tie to the wall or a fishing boat - and about the
same in the pond itself.
Facilities
None
70
Murray Harbour
46º 02.1N, 62º 27.1W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
CAUTION The entrance to Murray Harbour is good by local standards but should definitely be
avoided in an easterly gale, particularly on the ebb, as the seas break right to the bottom on the
bar. It is safe in all other conditions.
The entrance changes somewhat each year but on a reasonably quiet day you should have no
trouble carrying at least seven feet at lowest tide to the entrance with a couple of feet to spare.
There is a conspicuous range which works well until one gets close to the entrance; however, the
best course in 2005 was to take a straight line from the red-and-white fairway buoy towards the
front range. Watch for first a small green buoy and then a small red as you approach the entrance
- favour the red, then look for the red lighted buoy NM8 in the entrance. A shoal makes out from
Poverty Beach (Sable Point) and another from Beach Point (Oldstore Point) - the fishermen had
put a buoy out to mark it in 2005 - so favour the north side in the entrance. Currents run strongly
here, and mixing of the water layers sometimes gives false sonar readings (with consequent
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
71
imminent heart failure) just inside, but there is in fact at least 20 feet here.
The photo above shows Murray Harbour from the north. Beach Point is in the far distance, with
Nova Scotia faintly visible beyond. Cahoon’s Wharf is in the foreground - it’s possible to get in
here with care - Clow’s Wharf and the Murray Islands beyond. The sandspit in the middle often
has a large pack of seals on it.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a lovely quiet anchorage in behind Gordon's Island (46° 01.323N, 62° 29.786W),
perfectly sheltered from northerly winds and fairly well sheltered from the rest by the shallow
banks to the south. This was a favourite anchorage in the days of working sail when the
schooners that sailed from this area to Cape Breton and Newfoundland with Island produce were
sheltering or waiting for a tide or a wind. The island used to have several homes and a canning
factory.
The channel is easy to see at low tide after rounding Sable Point but even when the banks are
covered it is easily found by taking it slowly and using the depth sounder. Once the channel has
been located follow in to the middle of the island where anchorage may be found for several
vessels in about 16 - 17 feet. Although there is a channel westward shown on the chart it is hard
to find and not very deep.
Many of the other potential anchorages have been taken over by mussel farms.
It appears on the chart that there might be a potential anchorage at Cody Point, Murray Harbour
North, but the old piers are ruinous and completely shoaled in.
72
Beach Point
46º 01N, 62º 92.2W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2005
Remarks
The locals call Beach Point “the Cape” or “the Bull Pen”. It’s a busy place in lobster season, but
they won’t throw you out. Out of season it’s well-sheltered, with easy access through a short,
well-buoyed channel. There’s power and possibly water available; you may be able to get lobster
and ice from the plant. It’s half a mile or so to a nice beach at Beach Point (much quicker by
dinghy, but watch the current in the entrance).
Machon’s Point Wharf
46º 00.8N, 62º 30.8W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
The range on Machon’s Point should be followed closely from green lighted buoy NM14, (the
channel is narrow and the depth fluctuates; in particular there is a shallow spot about a cable
from the green buoy NM16). As soon as the range into Murray Harbour village from NM15 lines
up (have binoculars ready, it’s hard to see the range in daylight although it’s easy to see after
dark) turn hard to port onto the range around the buoy. There are shoals close on either hand at
this point. The channel into the village is staked but the range accurately shows the deepest water
through the narrows just past Machon’s Point wharf. There is at least ten feet all the way in - but
the channel is very narrow. Take care turning into the Wharf: there are shoals on both sides and
it isn’t very deep in the middle! The wharf itself is usually busy, but you can anchor in the bay.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
73
Remarks
Machon's Point Wharf is best avoided in lobster season - it’s very noisy and crowded. The rest of
the year the only reason to go here rather than Murray Harbour a short distance away is that there
is a fisherman's co-op chandlery (they have good things like boat nails, stainless nuts and bolts,
epoxy, antifouling, rope and fishing tackle) in the shack above the wharf (nearest the road by the
parked boats on the left in the photo above).
Murray Harbour Village
46º 00.3N, 62º 31.3W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
Simply follow the staked channel - it is quite wide and deep here.
As you come in look for “Nellie Lamb” on her mooring in front of the yellow bungalow inshore
from the last red stake before the harbour (that’s her picking up the mooring above). If she’s not
there feel free to use the mooring - but be aware there’s only four feet or so at low water springs.
The mud’s so soft you may not notice... If she is there come ashore and say hi!
Anchorage and Berths
As well as the public docks on both sides of the river (power available if you have a long
extension and can find the outlets) Murray Harbour boasts Jamie Richards’ “Bowdridge
Landing” marina: (902) 962 2427. It’s small - only room for two or three keel boats and only the
very first dock and the one closest to the shore access ramp have enough water for over four feet
at low-water. The marina is at the floating docks in the small indentation in the south river bank
at the top of the photo above.
Murray Harbour village offers the best shelter south of Montague - Hurricane Juan hardly
disturbed boats in here while it wreaked havoc in Charlottetown.
74
Facilities
The marina has a shower and toilet, and power and water on the docks. Jamie will go out of his
way to help with anything you need.
In the village there is a small supermarket and hardware store and a post office (up the hill at the
top of the photo) and a good small restaurant (Brehaut’s - their chowder is recommended) across
the bridge. There is a gas station with diesel and good mechanics just across the road from the
docks. Most other things can be organised if you ask around. Often there is a ceilidh at the
Community Centre on Friday nights. The library at the Community Centre has high-speed
Internet access.
Murray River
46º 00.8N, 62º 36.6W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
Instead of turning west towards Murray Harbour, continue past Machon’s Point and watch for
several small green and red buoys (they change with some regularity) and then the QR NM30
buoy marking the turn into the Murray River.
The Murray River is navigable (the first part is easy - just follow the mussel farms) to the dock at
the road bridge in the village of Murray River.
Anchorage and Berths
There are a couple of floating docks but one is used by a seal-watching tour boat and the other by
fishing boats. There may be room for you, but please ask. There is room to anchor in the river
but take care not to block the fairway as it is used by a floatplane which gives aerial tours.
Remarks
There is a gas station/convenience store just across the road and Mom’s Diner ¼ mile north.
There is a bank, too (CIBC). The Magik Dragon gift store has an amazing collection of strange
stuff from the Far East. There is no proper grocery or hardware store, though. The awardwinning Eagle’s View golf course (nine holes) is a short walk up river across the bridge.
Greek River and Mink River
46º 02.5N, 62º 31.7W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
Continue past the Murray River entrance towards the bold spit (McInnis Point) somewhat to
starboard. Turn sharply around it - a stake often (but not always) marks its underwater extent -
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
75
then watch for Clow’s Wharf (shown as ruined on older charts but now repaired and busy) to
starboard and the entrance to the Greek River to port. A large flock of seals is often seen basking
on the spit at its mouth. Take it slow, keep to the outside of the bends, and it is possible to get
alongside Cahoon’s Wharf. This stretch is a popular swimming hole for the local fishermen’s
families and you may meet a lobster boat or two anchored along here. There are no facilities.
76
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick Sides of
Northumberland Strait
Havre Boucher
45° 41.3N, 61° 31.6W
Chart 4335, 4448
(Jim Evans 1999)
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
The entrance is well marked by a lighted range (194 1/2°) and a pair of buoys in the entrance.
There is ample depth until one passes the green buoy, when several spots of six feet are found in
the channel. There is deeper water on the west side of the channel.
Anchorages and Berths
There is ten feet or more on the outer face of the government dock, although the inside is
shallow. The bay is protected from all directions and there is ample room for anchorage in about
1 1/2 fathom, mud.
Facilities
There are no facilities at the dock. There may be something up the road but I couldn't even find a
public phone, although the guys in the fire hall let me use theirs.
Remarks
Havre Boucher is about five miles west of the Canso Causeway - a useful bolt-hole if you don't
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
77
like the conditions after you've left, as returning to the lock with a tailwind often isn't an
attractive prospect.
Bayfield Wharf/ Pomquet Road
45° 38.7N, 61° 45.2W
Chart 4447
(Information from Northumberland Strait Yachting Association)
Directions
CAUTION A sand bar extends a long way south of Pomquet Island and it is important to identify
the buoys and wharf before a close approach. The church spire in Bayfield village may prove a
useful leading mark.
Anchorages and Berths
Pomquet Road is reported to offer good shelter in winds from south through north-west in two to
three fathom, sand.
Cribbon’s Point (Cribbean Head)
45º 45.3N, 61º 53.7W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
(Jim Evans 2005 – shore information only)
Cribbon’s Point is the local name for this small harbour that is now fully enclosed and very
similar to Ballantyne’s Cove, with floating docks and a few resident yachts. The main difference
is that the food, in the “Seafood Galley”, a cafeteria-style place with outdoor and indoor tables
and a good seafood menu, is much better. Entry is easy but facilities, apart from the restaurant,
minimal.
78
Ballantyne’s Cove
45° 51.4N, 61° 55W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
Jim Evans 2004, shore information 2005
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
Ballantyne’s Cove lies under tall cliffs a mile and a half south of Cape George. It can be
identified at night by a G-W-R sector light, but the light is low-powered and not easily seen at a
distance. The entrance to the harbour is quite close to the shore, making it a little nerve-wracking
in strong onshore winds or at night, but there is ample depth through the entrance.
Anchorage and Berths
There are floating docks (more than in the above photo), some of which are occupied by resident
yachts and, in season, the harbour may be very crowded with tuna fishing boats. Tuna season
usually starts in late August.
Facilities
Fuel and water is available. There is power on some docks. There is also a seafood snack bar and
a Bluefin Tuna Interpretive Centre.
A walk up to the lighthouse is recommended for the athletically inclined – there is a trail or you
can follow the road. The view from the road is stunning.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
79
Livingstone Cove
45° 52N, 61° 60W
Chart 4462, 4404
(Jim Evans 2005 – shore information only)
CAUTION There is only a short wharf with room for 3 or 4
boats, very shallow alongside although it would probably be
possible to lie alongside a fishing boat in 5 or 6 feet.
Arisaig
45° 45.6N, 62° 10.3W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
Shore information Jim Evans 2005
Information from
Northumberland Strait Yachting Association
Directions
Arisaig Harbour range lights FR open at 112°M approximately 12.5 miles south west of Cape
George. CAUTION There is reported to sometimes be a salmon net strung from the end of the
outer breakwater which runs in a southerly direction almost to the range lights. This net is legal
and is owned by a family who were given "Kings Rights" many years ago. A bow lookout is
recommended on entering this harbour. A third but very shallow wharf is located on the west
side of the ranges. The large white church, on the side of the hill at the highway is very
conspicuous. The highest mountain, reaching 1,100', along the ranges lies behind Arisaig Point.
A large rock formation, called Frenchman's Barn, lies in 18' of water just off the cliff,
approximately one mile east of Arisaig Point.
(Jim Evans 2005 – I spoke to a fisherman here who suggested that the best depths were on the
west wall and that a sailboat should keep close to this wall when entering. The east side has
about 3 feet at low tide.)
Anchorages and Berths
There are two wharf/breakwaters on the north side of the shallow harbour, the outer more
northerly one extends 480'. There is a rock obstruction off the southwest corner requiring caution
when manoeuvring in this area; the second 280' wharf/breakwater allows slightly deeper - but
still shallow - accommodation on its eastern face. A fish plant is located at the head of the two
main wharves.
Facilities
You may be able to get water and ice from the fish plant if it's operating.
80
Lismore Wharf (Baillie Brook)
45° 42.4N, 62° 16.4W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
Shore information only, Jim Evans 2005
Information from
Northumberland Strait Yachting Association
Directions
The leading range light QR is situated on a 25 ft steel tower at the extreme end of the 800' stone
protected "L" shaped east breakwater; the rear range IsoR4s is located inland on a similar 50 ft
tower. A second stone-wrapped breakwater extends from the west bank, creating a staked "run",
approximately 120' wide leading to the 400' wharf which lies parallel to the river. Depth along
the wharf face varies from 5' to 8', a slipway is located at the convergence of the east and west
brooks. The chart shows a depth of 8' off the end of the east breakwater
A prominent white church is situated on the brow of the hill in the village of Lismore at the
highway. The hills and mountains to the south behind the small village reach 800', and run along
towards Cape George, creating interesting sailing along the coast caused by the downdraft winds
on this shore. The coastline is bold and landing places are almost non existent.
Although the water depth looks deep close to shore, yachters are advised to stay outside the 25'
depth line.
CAUTION A rock bank showing 5' clearance, is located approximately 0.5 miles NE of the
Baillie Brook east breakwater , just inside the 20' depth line.
(Jim Evans, 2005. I took a look at this harbour from the shore and it looked difficult: a very
narrow and shallow entrance, then a sharp bend to port with drying rocks on the outside. Once
inside, the inner harbour was essentially full; there was a floating dock but it was full of fishing
boats moored stern-to. There was room for a boat or two on the north side of the inner harbour.)
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
81
Merigomish
45º 39.2N, 62º 28.3W
Canadian Chart 4445
Jim Evans 2004
Directions
The entrance to Merigomish Harbour is possible even in strong northerly winds, as the shoals on
the eastern side of the entrance break the waves for the turn in the channel.
From the fairway buoy FlR SA2, a course of 169°T will bring you past FlR SA6 and within sight
of the channel buoys past the narrows at Savage Point. Betty Point can be shaved very close; the
water is deep right up to the point. The current flows strongly through here at half flood and ebb,
but is nothing that will cause problems to a boat with a good auxiliary.
Local boats usually follow the narrow and unmarked channel up to Blackhall Gut, a perfectly
protected hurricane hole, but even they sometimes find themselves on the mud. The channel is
accurately shown on the chart - I have negotiated it several times by pre-plotting and following
the GPS.
Anchorage and Berths
Blackhall Gut is a perfect anchorage, and there are a couple of moorings provided by Pictou
Yacht Club right at the western end, as well as several private moorings. The area between
Muless and Quarry Islands also offers good anchorage.
There is excellent anchorage in behind Colquhoun Point outside the harbour in westerly
conditions - I have ridden out a 25 knot S-Westerly in comfort here - in 2-3 fathom sand bottom.
In fine weather you can anchor in close enough to swim ashore to the lovely sand beach - but
watch for the tide. It might go out while you’re having fun and leave you aground. I know.
82
There is a dock northwest of Savage Point that is reported to be accessible by a narrow channel
at high tide.
Pictou Island
45° 48.16N, 62° 35.15W
Canadian Chart 4023, 44830
Jim Evans 2005
There is a tiny harbour close to the western tip of the
island that serves the 12 families that live here year
round. If you want tips on home-schooling your kids
ask here: they home-school to Grade 8 and some
have home-schooled right through – including two
sisters who reportedly went to Harvard! There are
few attractions here – you can walk along the road or the beach, although there is also a church
and a dance hall! There is a website: http://www.pictouisland.com/index.htm.
Directions
The entrance is straightforward from the south. There is about nine feet in the entrance and a
little more inside. The harbour was dredged in 2005 – it was formerly very shallow.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a floating dock (new in 2005) or you can tie to the wall or a fishing boat. Keep clear of
the unloading crane on the south wall.
Facilities
(The following information is from the website). Pictou Island has a complete fire ban prohibiting
any open fires what so ever. So that means no bonfires. Please respect this. Most of Pictou Island
is private land, so there are no camping areas. However private land does end at the high water
mark. And if you are planning to camp on the beach, please respect the residents and do not
camp in front of any houses or cottages. There are no garbage facilities on the island, so you
must take your garbage back to the mainland with you and dispose of it there. There are no stores
of any nature on Pictou Island, so you alone are responsible for anything that you may need
during your visit. There is a public well located at the Community Centre which is roughly 2.5
miles from the wharf. There is a day park located at the East End of the island. This is roughly 5
miles from the wharf. At it are several picnic tables, a change room and a outhouse. There is no
camping allowed at the park.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
83
Pictou
45º 40.5N, 62º 42.3W
Canadian Chart 4437
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
The channel is marked for quite large vessels and is easy to enter at any state of tide, day or
night.
Anchorage and Berths
The town marina is well-equipped and right in the town (look for the masts of the Hector – see
photo above), but the docks near the entrance tend to be exposed in a southeasterly. The Pictou
Marina at Campbell Point, home to the Pictou Yacht Club, has a travelift of sorts, gas and diesel
and repair facilities, but is a longish hike from town. There is a reasonable anchorage just off the
Yacht Club in westerly conditions – right on top of the start line, so make sure it’s not race night!
There is a narrow channel east of Lighthouse Beach that is sometimes used as an anchorage by
local boats.
Remarks
Pictou is a small and historic town with a well-developed waterfront and tourist facilities
including pubs and restaurants and a replica and museum of the Hector, the ship that brought the
first settlers to Nova Scotia from Scotland. The only supermarket is a long way from the marina beyond walking distance. Unfortunately, if the wind is from the southeast the paper mill on the
opposite shore blankets the town with an eye-watering stench like a giant's fart.
84
Caribou
45°44.34 N, 62º 41.23W
Canadian Chart 4404, 4483
(Jim Evans 2005 - shore observations only)
Directions
The channel is buoyed and marked for
the ferry to Wood Islands, PEI, so entry
in all weathers is straightforward.
Anchorage and Berths
The fishermen's harbour is to the lower
right in the chartlet. There are possible
anchorages to east and west depending
on wind direction, but depth is limited.
Remarks
Caribou is the PEI ferry terminus.
There are several yachts laid up here in
wintertime but I'm not sure how they
are hauled.
Facilities
There is a cafeteria at the ferry terminal.
Brulé Harbour
45° 44.72N, 63° 11.47W
No personal information
There is reported to be anchoring in reasonable shelter
in about 12 feet at the head of the bay but, like
Barachois Harbour in Tatamagouche Bay, you are a
long way from shore.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
85
Tatamagouche Bay
There are, surprisingly perhaps, some keen sailors in Tatamagouche Bay. They take some pride
in the seemingly essential ability to sail while going aground every time they tack! They claim it
is possible to get a yacht almost up to Tatamagouche village via the staked channel, but local
knowledge would definitely be an advantage here. Barachois Harbour offers reasonable shelter
in south and west winds but the anchorage is wide open to east and north.
Wallace
45º 48.9N, 63º 28.4W
Canadian Chart 4402
Jim Evans 2003
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
Entrance is straightforward, aided by a sector light which makes a welcome change from the
usual ranges.
Anchorage and Berths
If you can squeeze into the snug harbour shelter is complete; however, outside there is a fair
fetch from east and west and, since the river mostly dries, anchoring opportunities are limited.
The village has little to recommend it.
86
Pugwash
45º 50.8N, 63º 39.8W
Canadian Chart 4498
Jim Evans 2003
Directions
The entrance is tortuous but very well marked as Pugwash is also home to, of all things, a huge
salt mine and large ships enter this tiny harbour. If you are lucky enough to see one of them
turning round in the harbour you will see some real seamanship.
Anchorage and Berths
Yachts dock at the Pugwash Yacht Club float, across the river from the salt dock close to the
road bridge. It isn’t a grand affair - the float is all there is. It is reported that there is an
obstruction the landward side, so keel boats should keep very close if going inside the dock.
There is a small private marina near the Fisherman’s Wharf but it appeared to be full of small
powerboats when I was there.
Facilities
There is a garage, hardware store and restaurants across the bridge. Seagull Pewter is close by to
the west from the Yacht Club float. There is good clamming on the beach outside the harbour, an
interesting museum and an excellent restaurant.
Remarks
Pugwash is a little gem. Home to the Nobel Peace Prize-winning Pugwash Peace Conferences; it
has benefited greatly from the efforts of philanthropist Cyrus Eaton, a native son. The museum is
worth a visit.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
87
Cape Tormentine
46º 07.98N, 63º 46.3W
Chart 4905, 4406
Jim Evans 2004
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
This is the former ferry terminal, about two miles east of the Bridge, and easy to spot from the
Strait in either direction. A FR light is shown from the outer breakwater.
Anchorage and Berths
There is an enclosed fishermen's harbour with good shelter. The outer harbour has over 20 feet
depth and enough room for anchoring.
Remarks
There is nothing here except good shelter.
88
Shediac
Pointe du Chêne
46º 14.45N, 64º 31.74W
Shediac Yacht Club
46º 13.7N, 64º 32.73W
Canadian Chart Chart 4909
Jim Evans 2003
Directions
The channel is well buoyed but it is advisable to stick closely to it as it is narrow and shallow
outside it, particularly close to the Yacht Club.
Anchorage and Berths
Shediac has two marinas. The first (Pointe du Chêne) incorporates a public wharf, the second is
the home of Shediac Yacht Club. The bay tends to be weedy and shallow and there is not much
suitable room for anchoring.
Facilities
The Yacht Club has all the usual facilities. This is the most convenient marina for the town
although it is still at least a mile to walk downtown. There is a lively sidewalk pub scene in the
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
89
summer. Pointe du Chêne is reported to be rather raucous in the season. Eric Radin (2001,2003)
made the point that Shediac is probably too close to Summerside to be much use to anyone
travelling up or down the Strait. It does offer an alternative with a quite different flavour,
however, as it has a distinctively French air. (New Brunswick is Canada’s only officially
bil;ingual province).
NOTE: The few harbours north of Shediac along this coast are mostly in rivers and very prone
to silting. This is the longest stretch of barrier beach in Canada. Eric Radin passed this way in
2001 and 2003 and recommends local knowledge, as dredging is carried out from time to time
and some harbours may be available.
Richibucto
46° 43.52N, 64° 44.47W (Mo A fairway buoy)
Chart 4906, 4909
Eric Radin 2001 and 2003
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
The channel has recently been dredged to 9 feet at low tide. The shoulders of the dredged area
are steep and one must respect the channel buoyage. There is a friendly marina a few miles in on
the north side which can handle boats with drafts up to 6'. There is a supermarket and hardware
store within walking distance. Gas and diesel are available nearby.
90
Miramichi Bay to Baie des Chaleurs and Cap de Gaspé
Escuminac
47° 04.8N, 64° 53.2W
Chart 4906
Eric Radin 2001, 2003
Eric Radin mentions that this double
basin about 6NM west of Point
Escuminac (where the unusual
phenomenon of cliffs of postglacial peat
may be seen) outside the south shore of
Miramichi Bay is popular with
Quèbecois cruisers and certainly offers
shelter without the long haul up to
Miramichi. Work was carried out on the
harbour in 2001 to repair ice damage.
35 fishermen from this area, fishing out
of Escuminac, were lost in a disastrous
gale in June of 1959.
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Miramichi
47° 05.88N, 64° 56.5W
Chart 4906, 4911, 4912
(Shore information only, Jim Evans 2003)
Miramichi is at the end of a long and tortuous channel. It is a grimy, smelly industrial place with
high unemployment and a recent history of bitter labour unrest, poor relations with Burnt Church
First Nation and a high crime rate. Hardly an enticing recipe for a cruising destination, but one is
sometimes surprised by what one finds on arrival by boat so perhaps it’s worth a try just out of
interest if you’re in the area. Amazing, really, that the upper Miramichi is a salmon river
producing nearly half of North America’s rod-caught salmon. You have to hire a guide to fish,
though.
The wharf at Loggieville (about halfway upriver) is due to be dredged, improved and to have
floating docks installed in 2006. For further information contact
Mike Freeman
Environmental Officer
Transport Canada
Telephone: (506) 851-6962
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
91
Email address: freemam@tc.gc.ca
and refer to CEAR reference number 06-01-16773
Shippagan
47° 43.0N, 64° 39.9W
Chart 4913, 4920
Eric Radin 2001 and 2003
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
Directions
The lift drawbridge leading to the harbour only clears 38 feet, so if one is traveling along the
coast, (unless one wants to go around Miscou Island, into Chaleur Bay and back down to the
inner entrance to Shippagan Harbour (about 50 NM)), shelter can be obtained only in Shippagan
Gully. The channel across the bar into the Gully begins southwest of the outside entrance bell
and is buoyed. Once inside, the channel is buoyed but silts up the closer to the bridge you get.
The Gully seems to offer no reasonable anchorages outside the channel. The best bet for shelter
is the boat basin on the south bank, just inside the entrance to the gully. The safest approach to
its entrance is a southward turn from the channel 2/3 of the way from mark TJ24 to TJ27, which,
because of changes in buoyage over the years are adjacent. Aim for the port side of the basin's
entrance. Keep to the port side in the basin as well as its starboard side is shoal. We tied up to the
wharf in 8 feet of water but it is possible to anchor if there is not a lot of fishing activity. Just be
sure the fishing boats can get past you.
We don’t yet have any information on the rest of this area. If anyone has any please send it
to the editor at the address on Page 1.
92
The St. Lawrence below Québec City to Sept-Iles and Cap
de Gaspé
From Quèbec down the River the Tidal Atlas of the St. Lawrence is invaluable. This
book is arranged in different sections with the tidal currents broken down graphically as to state
of tide and shows force and direction for each part of the river. The diagrams are
to scale, correspond to locations on the chart and are easy to use.
(Noel Lien) We were able to use this Atlas in 2002 when we brought Kalinka1 home to Toronto
from Sydney, Nova Scotia. We were 9 1/2 days from Sydney to Brockville. At one point we
were making 10 1/2 knots over the ground against the ebb tide by following
the eddies shown in the Atlas. Going downstream in 2000 we made 17 1/2 knots OTG in the
vicinity of the Saguenay River. The Atlas is available from the Canadian Hydrographic Office or
through some Chart dealers. Price is $50.00 Cdn. The tide tables are less than $10.00 Cdn. but do
not give this detailed current information.
(Jim Evans 2002) Another publication that I found useful was called Secrets of the Saint
Lawrence, published by Environment Canada. It can be found at
http://www.qc.ec.gc.ca/meteo/secrets_stlaurent/index_e.htm and printed. It shows how different
weather and tide conditions can cause problems on the river and northern Gulf – largely common
sense but handy to have.
Quèbec City
Quèbec City is what the Québecois call the National Capital. (Strange country, Canada – I
always thought Ottawa was the capital…) As such it is the centre of the provincial bureaucracy
but it is also the historical and cultural centre of Quèbec. The food and ambiance are great – but
some of the inhabitants are prone to insist on their right to speak French. On the other hand, if
you make an attempt to meet them halfway on that they will mostly make you very welcome.
Quèbec City Yacht Club
46 47N, 71 14W
Chart 1316
Noel Lien 2000, 2002
Directions
Tide and currents can make entrance tricky!
18 foot tide so flood and ebb currents can create
some difficulty in entering and leaving.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
93
Anchorage and Berths
Once inside the fuel and check-in dock is to the starboard side 1st night is free if from a
reciprocating club, otherwise $1.00/ft. This was the going rate for all the Marinas/clubs down the
River.
There was never a charge if anchored out.
Facilities
The club has all the facilities including a pool and repairs of all kinds could be arranged. Quèbec
City is a major city in Canada and Quèbec. Airport, Railway, Bus terminals, Car rentals etc. were
all readily available. The YC was a 1/2 hour walk from the Old City. Just far enough away to
work up an appetite for delicious French Cuisine.
Marina du Vieux Port, Bassin Louise
46 49.2N, 71 12.3W
Chart 1316 (full directions in Sailing Directions)
www.marinaportquebec.ca/en/01/01_1.htm
Jim Evans 1996, 2002
Directions
The marina is entered via a narrow entrance into a basin and then through a tide lock. This is
actually quite straightforward – I had engine trouble in ’96 and had to sail out! The advantage, of
course, is that there is very little rise and fall once inside.
Anchorage and Berths
Berthage is on floating docks
2005 rates:
Boats 59 feet or less: $1.55 per foot per night
Boats between 60 and 79 feet: $2.00 per foot per night
Boats 80 feet or more: $2.40 per foot per night
Phone: (418) 648-2233
Facilities
Over 415 slips and facilities for vessels up to 200 feet in length with a draught of 20 feet. Each
berth has a drinking- water hook-up and a 30-amp hydro hook-up (50- and 100-amp hook-ups
are also available). All docks have power and water. There are repair facilities and a large
chandlery nearby. Swimming pool. Travelift. Dismasting crane. Laundromat. 24 hr. security.
Boat storage: In summer and winter, storage spaces are available for boats. Water and hydro
services are provided at the storage sites from approximately April 15 to November 15 in each
year. Non-members of the Marina must reserve their space as early as possible because the
number of spaces is limited.
Gasoline or diesel can be obtained at the service station, which is open 7 days a week from 8:00
a.m. to 8:00 p.m. during the busy season.
94
A pump to empty septic tanks is available to visitors at the service wharf and may be used free of
charge by everyone.
Remarks
The Bassin Louise is practically right in the old city, which makes it ideal for tourism and access
to bars and restaurants.
Routes below Québec City
There is a choice of channels below Quèbec City but the route I took seems to be that most often
used. The attraction of something called the Chenal des Grands Voiliers (Channel of the Great
Sailing Ships) is obvious. The Chenal de l’Ile d’Orleans is quite narrow and has several shoals.
The Chenal du Nord splits from the Chenal des Grrands Voiliers at the eastern end of the Ile
d’Orleans and is dredged for its first part and well-marked, and leads past the first good
anchorage below Quèbec, that of Mouillage de la Prairie, where there is also a marina at St.
Bernard de l’Ile aux Coudres. The Chenal du Milieu and Chenal du Sud are both encumbered by
shoals to a greater extent than the Chenal du Nord.
The channels come together below Ile aux Coudres.
All of the channels are subject to strong tides and tide rips in certain conditions. A copy of the
Tidal Atlas of the St. Lawrence is very strongly recommended – and a must-have if you’re going
upstream, of course. By working the tides it is possible to cover a remarkable distance in a day –
but harbours and anchorages are few and far between until you get down to Tadoussac, so it is
well to have a Plan B ready if the weather comes foul. It goes without saying that wind against
tide is something to be avoided here.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
95
North Shore
Mouillage à la Prairie/St. Bernard de l’Ile aux Coudres
47 25.16N, 70 24.5W
Chart 1233
Jim Evans 1996, 2002
Directions
This is an open roadstead subject to strong tidal currents (4 knots or so). On my first visit I
awoke to find the boat had dragged into the middle of a field of very nasty rocks, but the second
time spent a quiet enough night except for the sluicing of the tide past the hull and the wake of a
large ship in the middle of the night.
Directions
Jim Evans 1996 The marina is in a basin beside the rather exposed public dock. However, in
1996 it was well filled with very soft mud – about 2 feet depth at low. I was able to motor out
through it with 4’6” draft and a very skinny fin keel!
96
Cap à l’Aigle
47 39.8N, 70 05.7W
Chart 1234 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002
Remarks
A port of refuge some 65 miles East of Quèbec on
the North shore near Pointe à Pic. A man made
harbour administered by the Quèbec Yacht Club.
Marina with 56 berths. Too far from anything so just
a layover for the change of the tide.
Tadoussac
48 08.3N, 69 42.9W
Chart 1203 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002, Jim Evans 1996, 2002
Directions
The mouth of the Saguenay River is beset by tide rips and can be dangerous in strong wind
against tide conditions, and it is wise to plan an approach bearing the weather and tide conditions
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
97
in mind.
Remarks
Noel Lien: Tadoussac lies at the mouth of the Saguenay River. Very strong currents at the
confluence with the St. Lawrence. A great spot for whale watching. Belugas, Blue Whales,
Humpbacks and Sperm whales, Pilot and Minke whales have all been seen here. There is a good
anchorage by the Marina. We did not go ashore here. The Saguenay is navigable a long way up
(as far as Chicoutimi).
Jim Evans: The marina has the usual facilities. Tadoussac is a nice little town with restaurants
and grocery stores and reputedly the oldest church in North America. We saw dozens of belugas
here, and fin whales and Minkes on the way downstream. We went a few miles up river – far
enough to see that it is indeed spectacular and would be worth a few days to explore more
thoroughly. It is possible to go right up to Chicoutimi in deep water, through North America’s
largest fiord.
Marina de Tadoussac, Club nautique-Tadoussac Marina and Nautical Club
367 rue Bord de l'Eau,
Tel.: (418) 235-4585
Fax: (418) 235-4795
Godbout
49 19N, 67 36W
Chart 1236 (inset)
(Information from La Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
Directions
Access is easy at all stages of the tide. The
bay is open to winds from the south and east.
The village is hardly visible from the river as
it is hidden by the point of the river mouth,
but some fishing huts are visible and the
church spire shows above the trees.
98
Anchorage and Berths
There is a public dock east of the ferry terminal with 7 feet depth. Anchorage is available off the
last houses in the village to the east, but care should be taken to avoid the numerous mooring
stakes and running moorings.
Remarks
Godbout has hotels, dépanneurs, gas station and health centre and beaches. This is a centre for
trout and salmon fishing.
Ile aux Oeufs
49 37.9N, 67 10.6W
Chart 1236, 1226
(Information from La Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
This would be a useful anchorage on the way up or
down the north shore.
Directions
Approach from the west in daylight and do not attempt to pass between the north end of Ile aux
Oeufs and Recif Northeast. It is possible to pass between the two islands with care.
Anchorage
Anchor in 7.5 feet, sand bottom. Ensure that the anchor is well dug in because it will not bite
easily. This is recommended as a well-sheltered anchorage.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
99
Ile du Grand Caouis
49 50N, 67 01W
Chart 1226
(Information from La Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
Directions
A light (Fl6sec 148ft 11M) appears on the southern tip of the island. Take care entering Le Fer a
Cheval as there are shoals .25M off shore; shelter is good except in strong winds from east or
north.
Le Havre aux Americains is the better anchorage in winds from east or south. Do not go too
close to the beach as there is a risk of grounding at low tided. The bottom is sand; a rocky point
separates two beaches.
Remarks
This island is reported to be a bird nesting area and popular with divers – there are a number of
wrecks to the north of Le Fer a Cheval. Fishing nets may sometimes be encountered in this area.
100
South Shore
Baie du Ha! Ha!
48 20.84N, 68 49.53W
Chart 1236, 1223
Jim Evans 1996
Directions
This bay only gives shelter in winds from
south to north through east. Holding was
good in mud and sand. There was nothing
here but trees in 1996. There is another
bay the other side of Cap à l’Orignal that
looks as though it would make a good
overnight anchorage in westerly
conditions.
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
101
Rimouski
48 28.8N, 68 30.8W
Chart 1236 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002, Jim Evans 1996
Directions
Noel Lien 2002: This is a good deep water harbour. The entrance can be a little tricky the first
time! Follow the channel in to the break wall, keep to the outside of the east side of the wall then
enter into the Basin just before the rock wall. Contact the marina on VHF ch. 68. For a picture
see the SailingDirections. There is a wonderful museum devoted to the Empress of Ireland which
sank just 7 miles from shore with the loss of over 1400 persons.
Remarks
Rimouski is a major town on the south side of the River. All kinds of repairs are available, plus
train and bus depots, supermarkets and liquor (Socièté des Alcools or SAQ) and beer stores.
(Beer is available in convenience stores (called “depanneurs”, in Quèbec).
102
Matane
48 51.15N, 61 37.75W
Chart 1236 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002
There is a marina located on the east side of the
Channel into the Old Port just before the Bridge.
Very shallow: anything over 6 Ft. draft would
probably be too deep but the bottom is soft mud,
so one could get in if needed. The New Port is
commercial.
Ste. Anne Des Monts
49 08N, 66 29.2W
Chart 1230
Noel Lien 2002
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans
Canada
A Very well protect harbour with good docks. Fuel available by jerry can or truck. When
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor
103
entering keep to the centre of church spires, which will lead you right in, in deep water. In 1997
we were able to get 85 boats of the Newfoundland Flotilla in here, and in 2000, 17 boats.
L’Anse à Valleau
49 04.9N, 64 32.7W
Jim Evans 1996
Look for the Mo(A)
Bell just offshore.
This is a tiny place,
but with good docks
and friendly folks, and
well sheltered.
Photo: Small Craft Harbours
Branch, Fisheries and Oceans
Canada
Cap des Rosiers
48° 50.3N, 64° 12.76W
Jim Evans 1996
Remarks
This is another tiny, well-sheltered harbour almost at the tip of the Gaspé. There is an attractive
interpretive centre for the Forillon Peninsula. There were no facilities for yachts when I was
there – the harbour was devoted to whale-watching, tourism and fishing boats – but there was
dock space although the harbour had silted to about four feet depth. It is dredged periodically,
however.
104
Havre Aubert, Iles de la Madeleine
Photo: Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and Oceans Canada
The Cruising Guide to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence is a compendium of information from sailors
who have actually visited the ports and anchorages described. The editor is constantly looking
for updates, corrections and information on new places within the scope of the Guide. If you
have cruised the Gulf in the past few years we would be grateful for your observations, typically
under the following headings:
 Off-lying dangers
 cautions on entry
 quality and availability of shelter
 remarks regarding shore-side facilities and attractions (or lack of them).
You will get an attribution in the Guide.
Please send information to:
Jim Evans,
134 Machon Point Road,
Murray Harbour, PE
Canada
C0A 1V0
or, preferably, by e-mail to: james.evans@pei.sympatico.ca
Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St. Lawrence –Jim Evans, Editor