The Wool & Flax Llama Farm
Owner’s Manual
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General Information
Introduction
2
Llamas 101
3
Llama Facts
6
Training
8
Vaccinations, Worming & Coccidia
9
Birthing
11
Guard Llamas
12
Llamas & Fire
13
Common Myths
14
Why Llamas?
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Llamas are my secret friends,
…mystical,
we go walking together.
We
…magical,
talk without saying a word.
...wonderful.
We take turns playing follow-
They are my…
-the-leader and hide-n-seek.
I
silent companions.
love the llamas and they love me!
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(yá-ma or lá-ma)
Llamas are known as the “Trucks of the Andes”. They are bred primarily as beasts of burden. Llamas are
members of the Lama family of Camelids and are native to South America. Other Lamas are the
domesticated Alpaca, bred for its fine fiber, the wild guanaco, and the rare vicuña. Their only natural
predator is the Mountain Lion (Cougar or Puma). Lamas and Camels are cousins.
Llamas are used for showing, packing, cart driving, guards for sheep and goats, fiber (wool) production, pets
and breeding. An adult Llama can carry 60-80 pounds 8-10 miles per day. Their curiosity and quick learning
ability make them easy and fun to train.
Their gestation period is 11-12 months and they rarely have twins. The baby Llamas, known as crias, weight
18-36 pounds at birth. They are usually up and around within the first hour. For the first three months they
gain almost a pound a day. Most mother Llamas wean their crias by six months of age.
Llamas are browsers like goats. Once weaned, they usually thrive on a low protein diet of grasses.
Occasionally their diets are supplemented with grains and minerals if their normal feed is very deficient in
these essential nutrients. Because their digestive systems are so efficient “hot” feeds such as alfalfa tend to
make them fat. On the trail, Llamas do nicely on native vegetation supplemented with 1 cup of grain a day.
Llamas are less expensive to feed than a medium size dog.
Llamas are very social animals. Because of
that, most experts insist that new owners buy
at least two. A lone Llama may become
depressed and die. Llamas don’t usually
require an elaborate shelter. A lean-to
providing minimal shelter from the wind and
protection of the feed from rain is usually
sufficient. Many areas allow up to 10 Llamas
per acre.
Prices for Llamas vary due to location,
breeding, confirmation, training and
disposition among other traits. On the West
Coast, the price for a quality, registered,
trained and gelded 18-month-old male starts
around $450. Most breeders have package
deals and are willing to finance purchases.
Though Llama specific products are usually
not sold at the local pet store, there are a
number of mail order firms featuring quality
Llama products.
The practically odorless Llama “pellets” make an excellent soil amendment. They are low in nitrogen and
don’t require extensive composting. In fact you can apply fresh pellets directly to many plants. “Harvesting”
of the Llama pellets is easy, because Llamas “go” in only a few spots.
Llamas communicate primarily through body language (watch their ears). They do have a wide range of
vocalizations when a simple twitch of an ear isn’t enough. They hum to their crias, growl at one another,
“orgle” during mating and they also have a high pitched scream which is an alarm call. Although they do spit
at each other, they seldom spit at people unless teased. They are very gentle and clean animals. They are
a joy to raise.
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Llamas 101
Lon Hanke (Past CAL-ILA President)
Llamas are wonderful, intelligent creatures that are very satisfying to own. In the last few years a number of
slogans have been enshrined on bumper stickers by the Llama community: Enrich your life - Discover Llamas,
Llamas - A Lifestyle Investment, Take a Llama to Lunch and I love my Llama. For me, all are appropriate and
perhaps understate their case. Llamas truly are a great joy to be with!
THE FIRST TWO LLAMAS
One of the first questions that a potential llama purchaser considers is how many do I need and what sex
should they be. In order of importance the answers are as follows:
Llamas are herd animals who are very gregarious and need social contact with other llamas. You definitely
need more than one llama. Llamas have been kept singly but it is not fair to the animal and the probability of
success is dramatically reduced. Llamas can be kept with other grazing animals, but another llama is vastly
better. Most experienced breeders will not sell a newcomer a llama that will be housed singly.
Two gelded males are the simplest option and the least expensive. The possibility of problems is reduced. The
two males can also make a nice pack string for a couple. Groups of gelded males can normally be kept
together successfully. There are a few exceptions. An older dominant male can create problems for a younger
or less dominant male. Injuries with males are more likely to occur if there is a great difference in size.
Having said that two males are the least risky way of starting, I must tell you that we started with mostly
females. A group of females generally can be kept together without any problems.
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Intact males can be kept together in some conditions. Younger males up to 14 or 20 months do very well.
After that the playing or rough housing can get serious.
For the first 3 to 6 months with llamas, it is best to stay with a tried and true combination of llamas. After that,
a newcomer's learning curve will be sufficient to manage a herd with various combinations.
OBSERVATION & STOICISM
In real estate it is said that location, location and location is all important. It is my opinion that in llama herd
and medical management it is observation, observation and observation that is all important. Llamas are very
stoic and can be very sick before they show any obvious signs. Stoicism is part of their delightful personality.
Remember, in humans we value the trait highly. But the stoicism of llamas requires that we pay careful
attention to them in order to detect small changes in behavior that may indicate medical needs. Besides observing llamas and their antics is delightful - it is part of the joy of llamas. Llamas are creatures of habit, and
if you notice that their routine has changed it is a good indication that something may be wrong.
FENCING
Another basic consideration when stating with llamas is fencing. Five or five and a half foot height is probably
the best. Llamas will usually respect a lower fence. The notable exceptions are males, when challenging each
other, and a llama that is scared - such as being chased by a dog. There are a variety of types of fencing.
Perimeter fencing should be constructed with thoughts of keeping predators out. Coyotes and the
neighborhood dogs can cause a significant amount of damage.
1.
No climb is a heavy woven wire fence with small openings and is probably the best fencing available.
It is also a bit more expensive. The 2" x 4" openings are small enough that there is very little that gets
through or caught in the fence. No climb is a good choice in intensely used areas such as paddocks or
where maximum predator control is desired on a perimeter fence. When stretched tightly it forms an
impressively strong barrier. No Climb is very effective at keeping dogs out.
2.
Field fence is a lighter duty woven wire fence that has larger openings, in various combinations up to
6 inches square. The wires are a lighter gauge than the no climb material. The material cost is about
3% to 4% the cost of no climb, which roughly reflects the amount of steel in each. Field fence is used
successfully when a less than a "bullet proof' fence is acceptable. Llamas can get their heads caught in
the openings when trying to get to the grass on the other side. Field fencing with a tighter weave on
the bottom can be effective in keeping predators out.
3.
New Zealand or high tensile fence is a different system consisting of 7 to 15 strands of smooth wire
run individually. The material cost is still lower, because there is less wire. The installation cost is
somewhat greater because there are multiple wires to handle and the integrity of the system is much
more dependent on good tensioning which demands more elaborate end post systems and tensioners.
The higher installation costs are reduces on long runs. High tensile fence frequently has alternate
wires electrified. Electric systems have both advantages and disadvantages. They are powerful but
they require more maintenance. High tensile is more appropriate on long lesser used runs and is not
as viable a choice on short runs and in more intensely used paddocks. Aesthetics can be tricky - A tall
high tensile fence with a lot of wire can look a little like a fortress. A common application is to use
electrified high tensile fence between fields with intact males. Non-electrified high tensile fencing is
not much of a deterrent to predators.
4.
Wooden fencing with three (or four) rails is more expensive but is very attractive. Small crias can
walk through the rails unless there is a wire between the boards. Curiosity gets them through the
fence. They then stand on the other side wondering why there is a fence between them and the rest
of the herd. They are cute. The maintenance on a wood fence can be significant (outrageous?),
especially if it is white rather than brown. Predators can usually get though a rail fence rather easily.
5.
Vinyl three rail fence is more expensive than wood but doesn't need painting.
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6.
Panels made of welded tubing can be used a temporary fencing or to create corrals. Cattle panels can
be used but are much heavier than necessary for llamas. Lightweight panels designed specifically for
llamas have been available for several years. They are offered in several llama product catalogs.
7.
Barbed wire is not preferred for constructing llama fences. However, many llama ranches that had
other livestock have existing barbed wire fences. They are satisfactory if a little caution is used. The
danger of injury to the llama, potential fiber damage from rubbing on the fence and the fact that
predators can easily get under the fence make this a good candidate to replace with a more
appropriate fence.
Fencing costs vary significantly but generally are in the range of $3 to $7 per linear foot, installed.
OTHER MATERIALS
The following items were all originally written for our internal use to help organize the ranch. Then they
evolved and were given to our customers to help them get started with llamas.
The ILA Llamas Facts sheet is excellently written and a great short introduction to llamas. We use it
all the time for the public and newcomers. ILA has a series of 10 superb brochures on basic llama
subjects. They include Medical Management, Housing and Fencing, Wool, Packing Feeding and
others.
A Llama Training Curriculum is a quick road map for training. It assumes that the reader has some
understanding of llama psychology and behavior.
The Vaccinations, Worming and Coccidia procedures sheet is designed to help new people get
organized in the area of llama management that can be a little confusing. A significant caveat is that
most new llama ranches initially only will need the vaccination procedures and a very small portion of
the information on worming and coccidia. As always, any Herd Medicine Management Program
should be reviewed by your veterinarian to insure it meets the needs of your animals and your locale.
The Birthing Checklist is written at a very basic level and assumes that the reader has little experience
with animal birthing.
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LLAMA FACTS
YESTERDAY AND TODAY
Lamas (single "L"), which include the llama (double "LL"), alpaca, guanaco and the endangered vicuna, are
members of the camel (camelid) family. Originating in the Central Plains of North America about 4O million
years ago, the lama predecessors migrated to South America around 2.5 million years ago. Its cousin, the
camel, relocated to the Middle East and other regions of the world. The end of the Ice Age 10,000 to 12,000
years ago marked the extinction of the camelid in North America. Llamas were domesticated from the
guanacos of the Andean highlands of Peru 5,000 to 6,000 years ago and are among the world's oldest domestic
animals. While primarily a beast of burden for the native herdsmen, llamas also provided them with meat,
wool, hide for shelter, manure pellets for fuel, and became sacrificial offerings to their gods. Today there are
an estimated 7 million llamas and alpacas in South America. Based on information provided by the
International Lama Registry, in the United States and Canada there's an estimated 74,000 to 77,000 llamas,
5,300-5,700 alpacas, and 250 to 300 guanacos. Llamas have international appeal, with countries such as New
Zealand augmenting their fiber industry with llama and alpaca wool. As in ancient times, the llama today is
important to the agricultural economy of the remote highlands of Argentina, Bolivia, Chili, and Peru. In North
America the llama and alpaca industry is recognized as a viable agricultural entity.
PHYSICAL FACTS
Life Span:
About 15 to 29 years Height: 36" to 47" at the shoulder, 5'to 6'5"
at the head Weight: 250 to 450 pounds Average Gestation: 350
days
Color:
A llama may be solid, spotted, or marked in a wide variety of
patterns, with wool colors ranging from white to black and many
shades of gray, beige, brown red, and roan in between.
Reproduction, Birth and Babies:
Females are first bred at 16 to 24 months of age. Llamas do not
have a heat cycle; they are induced ovulators (ovulation occurring
24 to 36 hours after breeding). Llamas can be bred at any time of
the year. A single baby ("cria") is usually delivered from a
standing mother, normally without assistance. Most births occur
during daylight hours, which is better for the cria and most
certainly more convenient for the llama owners. Twinning is a
rare occurrence. Normal birth weights are between 20 to 35 pounds and the cria usually stands and nurses
within 90 minutes. Depending upon the cria's size and the mother's condition, the baby is weaned at 4 to 6
months.
Health and Basic Medical Needs:
Because their ancestors evolved in the harsh environment of the Andean highlands, North American llama
owners have found them to be generally easy to care for. 'Me recommended primary care of yearly
vaccinations, routine worming, and regular toenail trimming help llamas remain hardy and healthy.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What are they used for?
Contemporary North American llamas are bred and raised for packing, wool production, cart pulling, animal
facilitated therapy, companion animals, exhibition in shows, parades and fair, and guardians of other livestock
such as sheep. The llama is becoming increasingly popular as a project animal for 4-H, Scouts, FFA and other
youth activities. For the outdoor enthusiast and athlete, there are numerous activities and competitive events
that team up the llama and his owner. Llamas are great family fun!
Can you use their wool?
Grease-free and lightweight, llama wool is warm and luxurious. A valuable commodity sought after by fiber
artists, such as weavers and spinners, the wool is a marketable product for llama owners.
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Are they intelligent?
Yes, which is why llamas can quickly learn to accept a halter, follow on a lead, load in and out of a vehicle, or
carry a pack,
Are they good pack animals?
Sure-footed and agile, most llamas are excellent packers and can carry an average of
80poundsor25%oftheirbodyweight. Their two-toed foot with its leathery pad gives the llama a low
environmental impact equivalent to that of a considerate hiker's athletic shoe. Their ability to browse lessens
their intrusion on the native vegetation, which is one of the reasons llamas are gaining in popularity with
environmentally conscious users and managers of our public lands. Historically llamas have carried packs for
man; however, some llamas have been trained to carry a small child.
What do they eat?
Llamas are modified ruminants with a three-compartment stomach. Like cattle and sheep, they chew their cud.
Because of a relatively low protein requirement and an efficient digestive system, they can be kept on a variety
of suitable pastures or hay, with the supplemental of recommended vitamins, minerals and salt A llama costs
significantly less to feed than other comparable-sized animals.
What is their personality like?
Because they are highly sociable herd animals, llamas need the companionship of other llamas. Independent
yet shy, llamas are gentle and curious. Their generally calm nature and common sense make a trained llama
easy for anyone to handle and an excellent choice for a child's pet and companion.
What sounds do they make?
Llamas communicate by humming. They also express themselves through a series of ear, body, and tail
postures. On rare occasions they will alert their companions and human keepers with a distinctive alarm call to
the presence of unfamiliar dogs or other creatures which they perceive as threats. Llamas warn each other off
by growling and making a clicking sound. During breeding males make a distinctive orgling sound. When
fighting some llamas make a load growling noise.
Do they spit?
Llamas will spit at other llamas in order to establish the pecking order within the group, to ward off an
unwanted suitor, or to say, "Stop it!" A llama who has been mishandled, feels abused, or threatened may
occasionally spit at humans. Usually before spitting a llama will pin their ears back and lift their chins in a
warning gesture.
Are they registered?
Yes. The International Lama Registry issues registration certificates and maintains a current database. Two
identification processes gaining prevalence within the llama industry are blood typing and micro chipping.
These efforts not only help protect the llama gene pool but also assure new buyers that llamas are a wise and
pleasurable investment. Recently DNA profiling has become common.
How much do they cost?
Costs vary from region to region throughout the United States and Canada. As a rule of thumb, you should
expect pet males to be the lowest priced, sometimes as low as $200. Trained packers can range from $500 to
$2,500. Young, stud quality males will be higher than pet males, with mature stud quality males generally higher
yet. Weanling females are generally (but not always) less expensive than bred females. The price structure for
females, as well as that for stud quality males, can vary greatly. The bottom end of the female price range is
about $1,500 to $4,000 and up, depending upon quality, bloodlines and other factors. Contact a local breeder
for more information.
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A Llama Training Curriculum
A good time to start llama training is just after weaning. The first few days after weaning a llama is especially
dependent. Their attentiveness can be constructively utilized for training. It is my feeling that a beginning
person should start training this time. Experienced llama trainers can begin when the llama is about two
months old, with excellent results. Novice trainers risk having the llama bond to humans by training before
weaning age. Training can be done in approximately the following order:
DESENSITIZATION
Start at the withers, then move up the back of neck and down the back, then around neck and around body.
The head and legs are the most sensitive and should be done last. Legs and feet can be done with wands, then
hands and blower.
HALTERING
After the head is desensitized and llama is confident of people start introducing the halter slowly and carefully.
Let the llama wear the halter for some time before using the lead.
LEADING
Lead first for short distances in the stall (using a short lead for safety). This
stage is critical. If the llama bucks the training needs to be slowed down.
Then lead into new areas - the paddock, barn and eventually around the
ranch. Introduce to different surfaces, i.e., gravel, concrete, exposed
aggregate and the red gravel, etc.
OBSTACLES
After the llama is comfortable being lead, introduce them to various obstacles,
roughly in order of difficulty. From the stalls; to the barn; out to visit the
other pastures to see different llamas across the fence; going through low
trees and bushes in the yard; off and on the low part of the loading dock then gradually increase the height to a jump; into buildings - the shop &
chicken coop; into enclosed spaces - the chute, trailer, scale & van; and up
and down the front stairs to the house.
ADDITIONAL DESENSITIZATION
Additional desensitization should be done at this stage to insure that the llama is comfortable with toenail
cutting, the blower, having his mouth handled and medical procedures.
PACKING and PUBLIC RELATIONS
Selected llamas should be taught to carry a pack. Males and females can both make good packers. Personality
and willingness are more important than wool length. Obstacles such as the creek below the pond and a walk
on the plank can be used.
Any llama that will be around people should be worked with more for public relations use. Usually llamas need
to be 4 or 5 years old before they are mature enough to stand quietly while being surrounded by crowns of
people. The level of trust developed between llama and handler makes a big difference in how the llama will
react to different situations.
GUARD LLAMAS
There is a common misperception that you can put a llama in a field with sheep and goats and it will protect
them. To be successful llamas must first be introduced to different livestock. It is best if you can have the
llama share a paddock, field and barn stalls with the same type of livestock as you plan on having it guard.
Even a week of experience will go a long way to insuring the success of a guard llama. All guard animals
should be halter/lead trained and be able to accept medical treatment.
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Vaccinations, Worming & Coccidia
VACCINATION SCHEDULES
CDT & COVEXIN 8
We use CDT (also know as 3-Way)
for clostridial diseases. We give CDT
to crias at 8 and 12 weeks after birth,
and then annually to all adults. We
also give CDT to pregnant females 6
to 8 weeks before delivery. Some
other farms use a sheep product,
Covexin 8. This 8-Way product
includes protection against some
diseases that llamas are not susceptible
to. Covexin may cause miscarriages
when used with pregnant females.
The dosage for both is 6 cc per llama.
For crias the dose is divided into two
2.5 cc shots, one on each side. A 50ml bottle has 10 doses - keep
refrigerated - about $6.
LEPTO 5
We use NOVALEP 5 for
leptospirosis and related diseases. The
schedule of administration is the same
as for Covexin and CDT. In the
Sierra Foothills, Lcpto 5 is used only
with irrigated pasture. Lepto type
diseases are generally related to cattle
operations or where flood irrigation is
common. The dosage is 2 cc for an
adult or a cria. A 20-ml bottle has 10
doses - keep refrigerated - about $5.
RABIES
Rabies shots are given annually.
IMRAB-3 is used frequently. In
California, and about half the states, rabies vaccinations are regulated by the state and may be given only by a
veterinarian. Llamas are very curious and can be bitten by rabid animals.
WORMING
Our worming schedule;
 Twice a year for the whole herd, in the spring when everything starts to grow and in the fall after the rains
start. We usually do NOT worm females that are close to term.
 On an as needed basis for an individual or group.
 For llamas leaving the ranch, a few days before departure.
 For llamas coming on the ranch (if not already wormed).
IVOMEC for cattle (brown bottle) and IVOMEC F (which also treats liver flukes) are injectables that can be
used for llamas. The active ingredient is Ivermectin. The dosage is 1 ml per 110 pounds of body weight, (i.e., 2
ml for 220 pounds, 3 for 330 pounds and 4 for 440 pounds). A 50-ml bottle has about 12 to 20 doses - no
refrigeration needed - about $33.
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IVOMEC POUR ON for cattle is also successful. It is more expensive. We use it to reduce the stress of
administration. It is also a very convenient choice when restraint is difficult or if no one is able to give
injections. So llamas dislike the sensation of the alcohol base evaporating.
IVOMEC PASTE for horses can also be used for llamas. We use it most commonly, as we prefer oral
administration. They come in a plastic dose syringe that is calibrated for body weight. A 25-gram syringe
deworms 1,100 pounds of animal weight (2 to 5 llama dosages) - about $4.
PANACUR and SAFE-GUARD are also paste wormers for horses. Both are 10% fenbendazole made by the
same company. They can be used as an alternative to Ivermectin. Before alternating wormers, please consult
your veterinarian. They come in a plastic dose syringe that is calibrated for body weight. A 25-gram syringe
deworms 1,100 pounds of animal weight (2 to 5 llama dosages) - about $4.
COCCIDIA
Coccidia are intestinal parasites. Coccidiosis can be treated with ALBON (sulfadimethoxine) a bolus or liquid
or CORID (amprolium) a soluble powder or liquid. The liquids are easier to administer. One gallon is about
$50. Albon and Corid are administered orally with a dose syringe for treatment of individuals or in drinking
water for herd treatment. When dosing a 300 pound individual, use Albon at 2 oz the first day and 1 oz for 3
or 4 more days. Adjust the dose proportionally by body weight.
DECCOX (decoquinate) is a good coccidia preventative for herd treatment. A powder, it can be mixed with
feed or granular salt or offered in a commercially prepared pellet or crumble.
In general, we treat coccidiosis aggressively because it can be difficult to control and can reoccur easily. If we
suspect worms or Coccidia in a pasture, we have samples analyzed. If necessary, fecal samples can be extracted
directly from the suspect animal using a latex examination glove. Any llama that does not have well formed
beans is treated immediately.
INJECTIONS
The injections for Covexin 8, CDT, Lepto 5 and Ivermectin injectable are given subcutaneously with a 2, 2.5, 3
or 5 ml disposable syringe using a 20 gauge, 1 inch needle. Covexin and CDT settle easily and need to be
shaken vigorously. Ivermectin is viscous and a little difficult to pass through a needle. It is somewhat painful
to the llama because it stings.
GEOGRAPHY & PREFERENCE
Vaccinations, worming and Coccidia treatments vary considerably with geographic location and somewhat with
density, cleanliness, fencing, irrigation, medical skills and personal preference. These are the procedures we
have elected to use on irrigated pasture in our area. Other medicines and techniques can be used successfully.
Please consult a local veterinarian or experienced llama ranches for recommendations for your area and
conditions.
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Llama Birthing Checklist
This is written at a basic level for people unfamiliar with birthing. It is designed to help people gain the
confidence to be able to assist llama births.

Some of the signs of imminent birth
are an enlarged profile or a barrel
look, a swollen vulva, an elongated
vulva, developed nipples (like a
Hershey's kiss), an enlarged udder,
humming, general discomfort, a
concerned facial expression, and lying
down and standing interchangeably in
an attempt to get comfortable.
Llamas may show some of these signs
up to several weeks before birth,
show some signs but not others,
show the signs in greatly differing
degrees or just deliver without any
clear signals.

Within a half-hour after the water breaks, the head and two front feet should emerge first. Any other
presentation is abnormal. If there is no progress within an hour, suspect trouble and call the vet.

During birthing, check for breathing! If needed, remove the membrane and mucous (if any) from the
baby's nose. If the mother objects to this procedure, or any other human intervention, omit the
procedure. When in doubt - do no interfere!

Iodine the navel right after the baby is born.

Remove the membrane from the baby and dry with a towel.

Crias do not thermo-regulate well for an hour or two after birth. Protect the baby from cold and wind. A
hair dryer or a heat lamp can be used to warm the baby. Protect both the cria and mother from extreme
heat in the summer (over 90 or 100) with shade and a fan in the barn.

Iodine the navel again after the baby is mostly dry. Be careful not to damage the umbilical cord near the
base - it can be fatal.

Weigh the baby after things have settled down, in about an hour.

Watch carefully to see that the baby is nursing and getting colostrum within the first few hours of birth. If
not, call the vet.

The placenta usually passes within 4 hours, although 8 or up to 24 hours is acceptable. Examine it to
make sure that it is in a single piece and none was left in the uterus. Save it in a heavy plastic bag in a
refrigerator for a few days in case it is needed for diagnostic work.

If possible, check to see that the baby's meconium passes in about the first half day or day.
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Qualifying a Llama for Guardian for Sheep
by Alvin Bean and Lance Hardcastle, East Fork Llamas, Marshall, NC 28753
Our program for selecting, training, and placing guard llamas is just beginning, however we will share what we
have done and what has worked or failed to work for us. Our main goal is to breed and train pack llamas, but
not all llamas are physically or psychologically suited to commercial packing. Those that are not are evaluated
for other uses, i.e. wool, pets, driving, or guards.
Our llamas are kept with a few sheep and goats and most of them guard quite naturally without any help. We
bring our dogs with us to tend to the chores. One dog is a husky-shepherd cross that looks like a wolf and
moves like a coyote. She is definitely interested in pursuing the sheep and goats, and circles the pastures and
paddocks in a menacing manner. The behaviors we look
for in the llamas in order of guard capability are:
1. watching the dog
2. alarm calling
3. placing themselves between the dog and the sheep and
goats
4. pursuing the dog slowly
5. charging at the dog
6. leading the goats and sheep to the barn and then
pursuing the dog.
We think that some llamas may have guard potential yet not
display it due to being immature, or due to having a low
position in the pecking order of the herd. If we think a
llama could be a guard, but is not displaying these
behaviors for these reasons, we try to encourage and
evaluate further in the following way. We place the llama
with the sheep and an experienced guard to serve as a role
model. Within a week he should begin to show guarding behaviors. The absence of other guards who are
"taking care of it" encourages the apprentice llama to take a stronger lead. The apprentice llama will sometimes
take the role of herding the sheep into the barn, working in tandem with the other one who goes after the dog.
The next step is to remove the role model llama, and place the apprentice in a smaller paddock [approximately
300 square feet] to encourage more bonding with the sheep. If the paddock is too small, the llama may
become frightened of the sheep running into his legs [we have seen this happen in a smaller catch pen]. The
llama should become more aggressive toward the dog, which is encouraged to circle outside the paddock. If
the llama progresses to approaching the dog, the dog is brought into the paddock.
Here there are several options including having both the dog and the llama on lead and rewarding the llama for
following after the dog. The dog is muzzled as an extra safety feature. Ultimately, we like to see the llama get
in between the sheep and the dog, lead the sheep to the barn, and chase the dog under the fence. The area is
small enough that we are able to intervene at any time, but we have not had to since we trained the dog to
come to an athletic whistle. If the llama does not do his job, and the sheep begin to run, the whistle is very
effective in interrupting her "chase" focus and bringing her back to us. We haven't had a llama become too
aggressive to the dog. This dog, however, respects the llamas, and retreats as soon as they show assertiveness
[much like coyotes are reported to do.]
We think the worst part of this program is the stress that the sheep endure, just seeing the dog around as well
as potentially being threatened by her. We have a large Tunis ram though, who is not as frightened of the dog
as the ewes are but will also permit some chase in a somewhat playful fashion. He has been and will maybe be
a better choice in these efforts. We would like to emphasize that the PERSONALITIES of all the training
animals involved [dog, experienced guard, sheep, goats, etc.] are crucial in avoiding undue stress to the animals.
In our placement of guard llamas, we offer a money back guarantee if the llama in question does not bond with
the sheep or fails to guard. Llamas have myriad uses and if one unfit for heavy work does not show guard
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BEWARE OF FIRE
by Shane & Tammie Eckhardt
potential, it can be trained to be a pet or performance
show animal. In our sales contract, we state that
llamas cannot defend themselves against dog packs or
cougars and may be killed. We stress this verbally
also.
Some people believe they want a young llama and can
train it themselves. This very well may be true, but
we recommend to a new llama owner or one that is
less familiar with animals to buy a couple of trained
geldings. We say this for three reasons:
1.
2.
3.
A trained llama will be a useful llama and one
easy to take care of
A useful llama is good for the llama industry
A trained, useful llama will not be returned.
Our efforts at East Fork Llamas from a breeding
standpoint are to provide affordable, trained llamas
that are as conformationally correct as possible. We
place them in situations for which they are suited and
will be happy and healthy as well as providing their
new owners with an animal that they can successfully
take care of and feel comfortable with.
Reprinted from: Llama Association of the Mid-Atlantic States
January -February 1998
A few months ago we sold a couple of llamas to a lady, one
was a younger male and one was a three year old gelding.
She called me a few days later and wanted to know what the
deal was with llamas and fire? I really didn't know what to
say because this is not one of your commonly asked new
owner’s questions. It seems she was cleaning up a lot that
she had put the llamas in and decided to burn some sticks
and leaves that she had raked up at one end of the lot.
A few minutes after the fire got going the gelding came
running from the far end of the lot as fast as he could run,
got down on his knees and tried to smash out the fire with
his chest. At this point the new owner along with being
scared to death was thinking she had just purchased the
craziest animal on earth. While trying to hold a new llama,
getting him off his knees, and extinguish flaming wool, she
couldn't believe what she was seeing. Lucky for both animal
and owner the llama did not receive
any skin damage, just some extra
really curly wool on his chest. It was
a scary but valuable lesson for a new
llama owner to say the least.
I talked to several owners and I could
not find anyone who’d had a similar
experience. I started to think this
might be an isolated incident until I
decided to clean out the tack and feed
room in our barn. I had cleaned out a bunch of old feed
sacks and put them in the corner of the lot to burn them.
There were about a half dozen one to two year old male
llamas that came to see what I was doing as usual. I lit
the sacks on fire and stepped back in the barn to get a
shovel full of straw off the feed room floor to throw on the
fire. When I stepped back out of the barn, what did I find ...
the fire department in action! Two of the older males were
on their knees trying to smash out the fire. Same as before,
no major damage, just some singed wool. OK, I know the
National Forest Service uses some llamas for packing but I'm
at this point starting to think about their usefulness for
stomping out forest fires [Ha!].
Since this has happened, we keep a really close eye on the
animals whether it be burning sacks, camp fires while
packing, or whatever. We now pen all the animals up if we
do any burning. They will still stand in the smoke and try to
get as close as possible to the fire. I don't know whether we
just have a crazy bunch here on the farm or llamas are really
firemen at heart. In either case, we learned the hard way.
Reprinted from the March, 1998 issue of Golden Plains Llama
Association’s newsletter, GPLA NEWS.
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COMMON LLAMA MYTHS EXPOSED!
ESSENTIAL FACTS YOU NEED TO KNOW
BEFORE BUYING LLAMAS
MYTH: I’ve heard Llamas spit!
FACT: Llamas do spit ... at each other to establish food dominance and herd pecking order. Pregnant female
llamas spit at breeding males to tell them to "buzz off'. Llamas spit as one of their few forms of self-defense.
Snakes and dogs bite, cats scratch and skunks spray in self-defense. Llama spit semi-digested hay, not nearly as
bad as bites, scratches or skunk spray. When llamas spit at humans it is usually a last resort. They are telling the
human to stop doing whatever they are doing to the llama.
MYTH: Folks say that Llamas are exotic animals, like ostriches and emus.
FACT: Llamas are Camelids, cousins to Camels and Alpacas. Llamas are classified as livestock in California.
In South America llamas are used for pack transportation and alpacas are fiber producers. Poor economic
conditions and scarce resources necessitate that the South Americans also use llamas and alpacas for meat. In
the USA we don’t eat our pets or companion animals.
MYTH: Don’t just the rich or eccentric own Llamas for amusement?
FACT: There are over 100,000 llamas in the country owned by
teachers, doctors, nurses, police officers, firefighters, farmers, truck
drivers, computer experts, insurance salespersons, college students,
average families, the young and old. Llamas have many uses. They
are wonderful pets, companions, great 4H project animals,
excellent packers for outdoors enthusiast and hunters, fine fiber
producers for spinners and weavers, organic lawnmowers for
vegetation control, compost producers for gardeners, reliable
guardians for sheep and goats, cart pullers and competition show
animals. Regardless of their function, llamas are fantastic just for
loving.
MYTH: I know that Llamas are too expensive to purchase as a pet. A
registered dog is cheaper.
FACT: Llama prices vary depending on animal age, bloodlines,
sex, training and reproductive use. Females are generally more
expensive than males. High quality breeding stock is more
expensive than a pet non-breeder. Pet gelded male prices start
around $400. Breeding quality animals start around $1,000 for
males and $1,500 for young females depending on bloodlines and
training. Comparatively registered dog prices can vary from $400
to the thousands.
Here are some simple tips for smart
llama purchases:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Know what your plans are for
llamas and buy the type of
animals that match your plans.
Only buy registered llamas; make
sure you get the ILR registration
as part of the sales agreement.
Only buy llamas that have had
training (a minimum of halter
and lead training). Make sure
you can catch, halter, lead and
handle them.
Buy llamas from reputable
breeders who will provide follow
up support.
MYTH: I’ve seen ads selling llamas for $200 or less in the newspaper. Couldn’t I breed these and sell the babies and make
money?
FACT: Yes, you’ll occasionally see llamas for sale at bargain basement prices. But beware, you really do get
what you pay for! These cheap llamas may be someone else’s problem and can bring you nothing but
disappointment. Llamas MUST BE REGISTERED (with the International LAMA Registry) to be bred,
shown, or have any sale value for themselves or their offspring. Often cheap sale llamas are not registered and
not minimally halter or lead trained. Untrained animals can be difficult to manage and could accidentally injure
someone in their panic to get away from you.
MYTH: I can't raise llamas, I have no livestock experience.
FACT: Llamas are very easy keepers, but all new owners need education in the llama basics of general
management, health care and training. The two best ways of obtaining these essentials is to purchase llamas
from reputable breeders and to join a llama organization. Even the "greenest city slicker" can become a
competent and knowledgeable llama owner in a short time with the support of other llama owners, breeders
and organizations like LANA and CAL-ILA (sponsor of the llama show at the California State Fair).
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MYTH: I hear llamas need big fancy ranch set-ups.
FACT: Actually, two llamas can live comfortably on as little as ¼ acre. The living set up is simple. They need
4 to 5 foot high non-barbed wire fencing (depending on the mix of females and intact males), a fresh water
source and shelter from wind, rain and snow and shade from the summer heat. A simple 3-sided shelter or
roofed pole structure may be adequate. Llamas graze on pasture grass. Grass hay is used for additional feed if
there is inadequate pasture for grazing. Most llamas are given supplements of llama pellets and selenium
minerals. Work with your local veterinarian to develop an individualized feeding regiment for your llama.
MYTH: I’ve heard that Llamas are too expensive to
feed and care for.
FACT: Llamas are cheaper to feed than a horse or a
large dog. Grass hay is $7.50 to $10 per bale. A horse
will eat a bale of hay in 3 days; a llama will eat the same
bale in 9 days. A 40-lb bag of llama pellets is around
$8 to $10. Most llamas are fed a cup of pellets or less
daily. Routine care for healthy, non-breeding llamas
consist of yearly shots, worming, occasional toenail
clipping and simple body shearing in the spring for
heat control.
MYTH: I’ve been told that it's best to buy a very young baby,
bottle-feed it and bond it to humans.
FACT: ABSOLUTELY NOT! This is a guarantee for
tragedy for all involved. Baby llamas need to stay with
mom for up to 6 months for nutrition and to learn
normal llama socialization. Babies that bond with
humans do not develop normal behaviors or a clear
concept of the difference between llamas and humans. While it’s cute to have a baby run to you, jump, frolic
and play like a puppy when it is small, that same llama will one day be 300+lbs and won’t understand why it
can't jump up and play like it did as a baby. This is especially serious in male llamas as they mature. You, the
long time object of affection, now become a breeding prospect. The sweet, loving, over socialized, fluffy baby
boy will become a dangerous, unpredictable-breeding machine. This perilous and inappropriate behavior is
virtually uncorrectable. The only solution is to destroy the llama. Because of inappropriate human bonding
your llama will be condemned to die. BABY LLAMAS NEED TO BE RAISED AND SOCIALIZED BY
THEIR MOMS, humans come later!
MYTH: They say the long wool llama breed is better to have.
FACT: Unlike dogs, horses, goats, etc., llamas have no "breed" distinction. A llama is a llama. Wool types and
country of origin distinguish llamas. Wool classifications are short, medium and long wool. Llama countries of
origin distinctions are North American, Canadian, Bolivian, Chilean, and Peruvian. Out-cross is a term for
llamas with bloodlines from another country other than USA. Llamas born in the USA are considered "outcrosses" if they were bred from parents from another country. Bloodlines, temperament, training and most
importantly confirmation are measures of "value" in llamas. The most important thing to remember in valuing
llamas is appropriately matching your end purpose or goals with the right llama.
MYTH: I want to buy just ONE.
FACT: Llamas are herd animals and MUST NOT BE KEPT AS A SINGLE ANIMAL. It’s similar to being
the only human on Mars. Sometimes llamas do well with sheep or goats as companions.
MYTH: I can't have llamas because I don't have a horse trailer or a truck to pull it with.
FACT: Actually many people with llamas don't transport their llamas in trailers. Llamas are very smart animals
and can be taught to load and travel in a van or pick up truck bed with stock side panels.
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Why Llamas?
Llamas are clean and intelligent. They make outstanding pets and
companions. There are fewer than 110,000 in North America. Llamas are
classified as livestock (in some areas.) Llamas are quiet, peaceful animals
and make a soft humming sound to communicate.
The Crias! (Babies)
Llamas come in a variety of colors; white black, gray, red and any
combination of these base colors. Llamas are easy to raise, can be handled
by anyone and are safe around children and seniors. Llamas are extremely
hardy and adaptable to most climates, altitudes and conditions. Llamas get
along well with goats, sheep, donkeys, horses, cats and the family dog. Llama
adults weigh 250 to 450 pounds. They live 20 to 25 years. Llamas require
little space. 1/4 of an acre is fine for two llamas and 5 foot high field
fencing is adequate.
The Crias!
Llamas only eat 4 to 6 pounds of hay per day and require no special diet.
Llamas are usually first bred at 18 to 24 months of age. Their gestation
period averages 11½ months. Llamas are easily transported in a pick-up, van
or trailer. They usually lie down in transit. Llamas don’t bark, bite, dig or
have fleas.
The Crias!
Llamas can be trained to pull carts and carry packs. They produce fine fiber
for spinning. Llama shows and competitions can promote a single llama or an
entire herd. Llamas may qualify for certain tax advantages and are excellent
for an income producing retirement program.
The Crias!
Why NOT Llamas?!?
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Barney & Bev McClung
The Wool & Flax Llama Farm
1188 Olive Hill Lane
Napa, CA 94558-2110
707 255-4971 house
707 255-2621 office
707 257-1396 fax
barney@napallama.com
bevm@napallama.com
Web site
www.napallama.com
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