NAME___________________________________
1. The dominant transport of sand along the south shore of Long Island is from:
a. E to W
b. W to E
c. N to S
d. S to N
2. The beach is an accumultion of sand or gravel that occupies part of the shore (T/F). Most of the beaches on the
south shore of Long Island are composed of ________.
a. T/fine sand
b. F/coarse sand
c. F/coarse sand
d. T/medium sand
3. Primary coastlines are created through initial geologic and physical processes such as volcanic, tectonic and
glacial activity, wind, and river transport and deposition. (T/F)
a. True
b. False
4. Tides are produced through a combination of gravitational forces of the moon and sun and the motion of earth.
a. True
b. False
.
5. Secondary coasts are controlled by erosion/deposition processes and biological activity. (T/F)
a. True
b. False
6. The equilibrium theory of tides predicts exactly the behavior of the tides in the ocean.
a. True
b. False
7. ENSO, El Nino Southern Oscillation is primarily associated with what wind belt
a. NE Trades
b. SE Trades
c. Westerlies
d. Polar Easterlies
8. Coral Atolls, mangrove swamps and barrier islands are examples of ________ coasts:
a. Primary
b. Secondary
9. Wave refraction in shallow water refers to along crest variations in speed which results in changes in wave direction
a. True
b. False
10. Due to the Moon’s orbit around the Earth the time of high tide advances 1.5 hrs each day.
a. True
b. False
11. Even though the sun is much larger than the moon, the moon has a greater influence on the observed tides because it is closer to
the earth.
a. True
b. False
12. New York experiences a semi-diurnal tide.
a. True
b. False
13. The width and height of the beach will vary seasonally, it will be widest during _______.
a. winter
b. spring
c. summer
d. fall
14. In general, tidal range decreases as continental shelf width increases.
a. True
b. False
15. The Bluff coastline out at Montauk is an example of a ________ coast.
a. Primary
b. Secondary
16. The greatest tidal range occurs during
a. full moon
b. first quarter moon
c. third quarter moon
d. blue moon
17. When sand is transported off the continental shelf it will no longer be available for beach/barrier island building
processes.
a. True
b. False
18. The process by which barrier island slowly migrate landward as sea level rises is called ______?
a. deposition
b. evolution
c. erosion
d. rollover
19. Delta coastlines, such as the Mississippi coastline is considered a ________ coastline.
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a. Primary
b. Secondary
20. Describing the tides by assuming that Earth is completely water covered, the water is infinitely deep and there is no friction
anywhere is called
a. dynamical tide theory b. equilibrium tide theory c. tidal bore
d. bogus theory
21. Mangrove swamps are the dominant saltwater wetland in the mid latitudes. (T/F)
a. True
b. False
22. The final stage of coral reef evolution is ______?
a. Atoll
b. Barrier reef
c. Fringing reef
23. Estuaries are regions where rivers meet the ocean and circulation is partially driven by density differences.
a. True
b. False
24. Which of the following is not a type of estuary?
a. drowned river
b. bar-built
c. passive
d. fjord
25. Which of the following US coastlines is relatively stable and not experiencing severe erosion
a. East coast
b. Gulf coast
c. Great Lakes coast
d. West coast
26. The wavelength of a surface ocean wave can be measured from _______________.
a. crest to crest
b. trough to crest
c. the wind that produces the wave
d. the depth of the ocean
27. The orbits of water particles below a shallow water wave are
a. elliptic and flatten with depth
b. elliptic and enlarge with depth
c. circular and extend halfway to the seafloor
d. circular at the surface and elliptical at the sea floor
28. Dynamic tidal analysis (theory)
a. assumes the earth is covered with water
c. does not account for Coriolis effect
b. assumes the ocean basins are infinitely deep
d. includes the effect of continents on tide wave propagation
29. A water wave reaches an unstable breaking point when the steepness ratio (ratio of wave height to wavelength)
reaches
a. 1:10
b. 1:8
c. 1:7
d. 1:5
e. 1:2
30. Wave energy in the ocean is related to the wave period. Most wave energy is typically concentrated in wind waves.
a. True
b. False
31. Strong local winds will produce ______, whereas, a tropical storm 300 miles away will produce_____ at your
location.
a. random seas; swell
b. swell; random seas
c. tsunamis
d. tides
32. The height of wind waves in deep water is controlled by
a. wind speed and depth of water
b. wind duration and atmospheric pressure
c. wind speed, fetch and wind duration
d. fetch only
33. In general, the _____________ the wavelength, the ____________ the wave energy will move through the water.
a. longer, slower
b. longer, faster
c. Shorter, faster
d. wavelength and energy are unrelated
34. Tsunamis travel across the ocean as
a. deep water waves
b. forced waves
c. refracted waves
d. shallow water waves
35. In shallow water the speed at which a wave propagates is controlled by the
a. wavelength
b. wave period
c. wave height
d. water depth
36. Wave dispersion refers to the
a. constructive interference between two waves
c. separating of waves into groups according to speed
b. oscillation of waves in an enclosed basin
d. destructive interference between two waves
37. Tides have the longest wavelength
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a. True
b. False
38. A progressive wind wave with a wavelength of 60 meters would be called a deep-water wave if
a. it is deflected to the right of the wind in the Northern Hemisphere
b. it occurs in waters that are at less than 20 meter deep
c. its period is changing as it propagates
d. it occurs in waters that are more than 30 meter deep
39. A tidal pattern of two high tides and two low tides each day is known as a semi-diurnal tidal pattern
a. True
b. False
40. Water particle motion (in relation to the direction of wave motion) beneath a deep water wave is
a. Vertical, in a straight line from top of water surface to bottom of ocean
b. Circular, with circular orbits decreasing with depth
c. Random, particles move in any direction and no pattern
d. water particles do not move at all with the passage of a wave
41. An east wind blowing along the south shore of Long Island for longer than 18 hours will (think Nor’easter):
a. lower water levels along the coast and produce upwelling somewhere out on the continental shelf
b. raise water levels along the coast and result in downwelling of warmer surface water
42. A west wind blowing along the south shore of Long Island for longer than 18 hours will:
a. lower water levels along the coast and produce upwelling somewhere out on the continental shelf
b. raise water levels along the coast and result in downwelling of warmer surface water
43. Spring tides occur
a. once each month
b. twice each month
c. three times each month d. once each week
44. Neap tides result from destructive interference between the solar and lunar tides.
a. True
b. False
45. The speed at which the tide wave propagates across an ocean basin is proportional to its period.
a. True
b. False
46. Tidal waves are called __________ because they are never free of the forces that cause them.
a. free waves
b. occupied waves
c. forced waves
d. fixed waves
47. A 300 meter-wavelength wave is propagating in a channel that is 10 meters deep. This wave can be characterized as a
a. Tsunami
b. lunatic wave
c. deep-water wave
d. shallow-water wave
48. Three basic categories of breaking waves include:
a. Surging, plunging and spilling
b. plunging, spilling and refracting
c. spilling, refracting and surging
d. refracting, surging and plunging
49. The lowest point on a wave is called the
a. Height
b. Trough
c. Amplitude
d. Crest
50. Waves that propagate while still under the influence of the forces that generated them are called
a. forced waves
b. dispersive waves
c. free waves
d. meteorological tides
51. The period of a wave
a. decreases as the wave enters shallow waters
c. does not change
b. increases as the wave enters shallow waters
d. increases up to breaking then decreases
52. Shallow water waves do not interact with the sea bed.
a. True
b. False
53. The fetch refers to the distance
a. a dog will go to retrieve a stick
c. over which the wind blows in one direction
b. a wave will travel before dissipating
d. from the coast to the area where surfers chase swells
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54. Rossby waves and Kelvin waves are considered _______.
a. surface gravity waves b. seiches
c. forced waves
d. planetary waves
55. The above figure is illustrating a/an _________.
a. El Nińo condition
b. non- El Nińo condition
56. The wind belt most strongly associated with ENSO events and general circulation in the Equatorial Pacific is
a. NE Trades
b. SE Trades
c. Westerlies
d. Polar Easterlies
57. Weakening of the pressure gradient between Darwin, Australia and Tahiti (what we measure) or Lima Peru will
1. gradually thicken the thermocline on the eastern equatorial pacific, reducing upwelling of intermediate water
2. weaken the winds responsible for creating the warm water pool on the western side of the ocean basin
3. generate equatorial surface and internal Kelvin waves that propagate eastward across the ocean basin
4. force the Thermocline to rise to a shallower depth, and west to east sea surface slope to be reduced
a.
1,2,3,4
b. 2,4,3,1
c. 2,4,1,3
d. 2,3,4,1
59. There are two pathways for Atlantic MOC, the cold pathway involving the fresher, Malvinas current coming around from the
south Pacific, and the warm pathway associated with warm, salty Agulhas leakage water from the Indian Ocean (T/F).
a. True
b. False
57. As the planet warms southern hemisphere westerlies are expected to shift southward, which will allow for more Agulhas leakage.
a. True
b. False
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58. The Agulhas leakage signal in part propagates across the tropical Atlantic as a ________.
a. Kelvin Wave
b. Rossby Wave
59. The signal then moves North along South America as a _________.
a. Kelvin Wave
b. Rossby Wave
60. The evolution of the barrier/barrier island system along the Atlantic coast of New York is strongly connected to
a. Tropical Storms (i.e. Hurricanes)
b. extratropical storms (i.e. Nor’easters, mid-latitude cylones)
61. A single hurricane (although rare in NYC) can significantly alter the existing barrier islands.
a. True
b. False
62. Hurricane Sandy created how many breaches in the barrier island?
a. 1
b. 2
c. 3
d. 4
63. How many breaches remain open today?
a. 0
b. 1
c. 2
d. 3
e. 4
64. The process in which a dune is flattened and pushed into the bay by extreme storm surge and wave action is called _______?
a. push over
b. wash over
c. breach
d. scour
65. Rockaway will require an estimated volume of ________ cubic yards of sand to construct the beach to pre-Irene conditions?
a.2.0 million
b. 1.5 million
c. 1 million
d. 0.5 million
66. When reviewing the LIDAR data, which section of Rockaway Beach lost the greatest volume of sand?
a. east
b. central
c. west
67. Given the dominant transport of sand is from east to west, what do you expect will happen to Breezy Point?
a. shoreline will recede due to all the intense Hurricane Sandy activity.
b. shoreline will eventually prograde (grow) as sand from updrift migrates on to Breezy Point.
c. stay the same, since sand does not move
68. When do you expect sand eroded during Hurricane Sandy will naturally move onshore and weld to the beach?
a. winter
b. late spring/early summer
c. late summer
d. fall
e. sand does not move
*Use NOS Tides and Currents, The Battery Station 8518750.
69. How many tidal cycles did Hurricane Sandy storm surge last?
a. 2
b. 3
c. 4
d. 5
e. 6
70. The storm surge reached a maximum value of approximately ________ feet?
a. 7.5 b. 8
c. 9.5 d. 10
e. 10.5
71. The combined storm water level (tide + surge) reached a maximum value of approximately ______ feet above MLLW?
a. 8
b.10
c.12
d.14
e.16
72. Hurricane Sandy occurred during what phase of the tidal cycle?
a. spring
b. neap
73. According to NDBC station 44025, wave heights reached a maximum value of approximately _______ meter?
a. 8
b. 9
c.10
d.11
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