DAVID LYON
OAK TREE HOUSE
CHURCH STREET
AMBERLEY
WEST SUSSEX
BN18 9ND
jdrl@btinternet.com
TEL: 01798 831 778
FAX: 01798 831 094
Trip Report: Eastern Bhutan 1 to 19 May 2008
1. Objective: The trip had two objectives.
First, to trek for 7 days on a route similar, or close to that described in the Bart
Jordan Cicerone guide as Trek 23: Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary Trek.
Second, to visit Phongmey to assess the options for the Merak-Sakteng trek; in
advance of access that area being reopened.
2. Preparation.
The trip was conceived in December 2007 in discussion with Namgay Tschering.
Arrangements in Bhutan were made direct through Namgay Adventure Travels:
www.nat.com.bt
A reconnaissance of the trip was carried out by Namgay Adventure Travels using
Ugyen Tschering, Thinley; who speaks the local languages, and one other during
February. They identified the route, camp sites, two teams of local horsemen and
arranged for a group of dancers from Merak to meet us at Phongmey.
The group was a private party, numbered 12, and had an age range of 38 to 75.
All had previous trekking experience. The party assembled in Kathmandu, staying
at Dwarikas Hotel, before flying to Paro. It is important for all of a group to arrive
in Paro by the same flight.
3. Getting to Eastern Bhutan
Travel was by 20 seater bus. 12 + 4 crew, accompanied by 3 ton truck with 3
crew, kit, trek equipment and supplies. Two or three stops a day, usually at passes
enabled everyone to stretch their legs by walking down hill for 15 minutes.
3.1 Following a late Druk Air schedule change the group abandoned their original
plan to spend the first night in Thimphu and drove from Paro, with lunch in
Thimphu, direct to Punakha and stayed at the Singe Hotel, arriving at 1900.
3.2 Dep. 0745 to visit the Punakha Dzong, reached by the nearly completed
covered bridge, the new Temple and market. Dep for Jakar. Lunched at Chendebji
Chorten, stopped to refuel in Trongsa and Arr. the Hotel Tamshing at 2030.
3.3 Dep. 0730 to visit Tamzing monastery, directly below hotel. All party carried
chain mail around the inner passage, for good luck. Walked on to Kurja Lakthang
and then to Janpa Lakthang. Dep. 1030 and Arr. Mongar 1900 staying at
Wangchuck Hotel.
3.4 Dep. 0800 and Arr. 1600 Trashi Yangtse to camp site by the Chorten. A good
site, if rather public.
It would be possible to make the journey in 3 days by bus or 2 days in a 4x4; but
it would be no fun. We achieved a good balance, particularly for those who were in
Bhutan for the first time. It would be worth considering taking an extra day a
camping at night to allow for more exploration of the differing forest on the way
across the country.
4. The Bumdeling Trek
The trek route starts by going NE from Trashi Yangtse on the E side of the Kulong
Chhu and then the W’nang Chhu to Solomang and then crosses the latter N to
Denchenphodrang Gompa before turning NW to Jingbu Gompa and the N to
Rigsum Gompa before dropping W down to and crossing the Kulong Chhu to
Bumdeling.
From Bumdeling return to Trashi Yangtse.
The second part of the trek starts at the bridge below old Trashi Yangtse Dazong
and goes S along the W side of the Kulong Chhu via Shongring, Raptse, Tokaphu
and ends at Torma Jansa.
The walking on all days is moderate overall. The descents from Rigsum and
Tokaphu are steep in parts and the a few short steep sections on most days not
exceeding 15 to 20 minutes.
Day time temperatures were higher than expected for early May –mid to high 80’s
F / 28 to 34 C. Night time temperatures were 10 to 15 C dependant on campsite
altitude.
The only heavy rain was on the descent from Rigsum to Bumdeling.
There was a fire each night on trek.
Day 1
Depart Trashi Yangtse Chorten [elevation 1700m] drive through the town past
Bayling school to end of tarmac road [1941m]. Dep. 0915 and follow lateral track
heading NE for 3 hrs to Womanang school, Gempo Tshetek, established as a
community school in 2000. [2000m]
Meet horses. Go down 10 m past a water prayer wheel opposite, and below, the
entrance to the school. Follow a path NE for 20 minutes, cross a small ridge with
farm house to left of track below and camp just beyond on grass slope above
track.[ 2196 m. Lat/Long using WGS54 N 27 40 40.8 E 91 31 14.5 . Total walking
time 4 hrs ]
Day 2
Follow track through fields and scrub to open area above river [ N 27 40 19 80 E
91 31 59.00 ] and cross suspension bridge. After 100m turn right to reach
Dendrenphodrang monastery, currently undergoing complete rebuilding. Retrace
route to turn above bridge and continue west along path. Cross stream [2103 m]
and continue to Chorten for lunch stop. [2 hrs / 2251m] Continue more steeply to
Chorten with good view to S over Tashi Yangtse and proceed to Jingbu Gompa and
campsite within the monastery compound [2467 m N 27 39 39.2 E 91 28 50.0
Total walking time 5 hrs ]
Day 3
Steep 2 ½ hr ascent on good track through mature forest to pass and then on level
for 1 ½ hr to Rigsum Gompa [ 2890m N27 42 05.8 E 91 27 15.4 ] Rigsum has 36
monks but only 7 were present as others were tending smaller monasteries
Rigsum is the highest point on the trek and the best place to put up prayer flags.
Descend steeply on good track ( slippery in wet ) for 900m to suspension bridge.
Cross bridge and walk N for 20 mins to camp site beyond Bumdeling on the flats
opposite the Black Crane nesting grounds. There is a useful bar at the N end of
Bumdeling. [1925 m N 27 39 35.0 E 91 27 03.5 Total walking time 7 hours]
Day 4
A short days walk down the main dirt road to Tashi Yangtse. First foreign group to
visit Bumdeling school, founded 1990, 260 pupils, which is being enlarged. Books
for 6 to 9 year olds needed plus adventure and romance for older children would
be welcomed.
Camp at Chorten. An opportunity to purchase fabrics from local weavers, mainly
silk and the covered wooden bowls and dishes which are a Tashi Yangtse speciality
Prices for covered bowls from Ng 400 to 2,000 and small drinking cups from Ng
150 to Ng 6,000 for a superb burl example. There is a bank in town.
Day 5
Drive from Tashi Yangtse to old Tashi Yangste Dzong and walk down to bridge
below. [1767m] 200m above bridge, as road bends right take track left ahead.
This a distinct, very attractive, but now little used path through forest, including
Sosking woods [ leaves collected for mixing with animal dung to make manure].
After 1 hr reach Chorten at 1935m. After further 1.5 hrs reach sugarloaf rock on
left of path with rock face with tree orchids at 1946m. After further 1 hr reach
good lunch spot at Mani wall [1993 m N 27 33 11.7 E 91 27 54.9].
Continue on track, up and down for 2.5 hrs. At 200m take left fork ahead, down
hill, as main track bends right Reach camp site at Shongring (Gongkhar gewog)
School. [1835m. No GPS signal. Total walking time 7.5 hrs ] Dinner included the
following collected during the day: 3 varieties of mushroom, fiddle head ferns,
spearmint potatoes, 2 unknown varieties of leeks, watercress, bananas.
Day 6
Descend steeply through fields and forest for .75 hrs to bridge [1626 m], then
climb through forest for .5 hrs to clearing [1729m]. Continue for .75 hrs to ledge
[1865m], then for a further 1.25 hrs emerging into fields and scattered farm
houses. Climb to lowest farmhouse and turn left to newly built house. Lunch just
beyond [1945m]. Track continues 50 m higher, above a large tree and below an
old farmhouse with stone wall surrounding garden. After 1.25 hr reach grassy
campsite in old school at Raptse [2094m. No GPS signal. Total walking time 4.5
hrs ].
Day 7
Dep 0845 and climb for .75 hr to visit Tokaphu Primary School. Descend steeply
fields and woodland for 3.25 hrs to waterfall [1619m] and continue for .5 hr to
road head at Torma Jansa school [1585m. No GPS signal. Total walking time 4.5
hrs]. Drive to Trashigang and then continue to Ranjung to stay in Monastery guest
house arr 1915.
5. Phongmey
As it was not possible to get permission to enter the Merak / Sakteng area we
determined to spend 2 nights at Phongmey and return to Ranjung on the
afternoon of the third day, driving the next day to camp above Wamrong to spread
the drive from Phongmey to Samdrup Jongkhar over two days.
Drive 15 mins to shop on left hand side of road selling textiles. This is a major
source of silk and raw silk fabrics. Continue to Radi [9km] and then to Phongmey
[9km] either by vehicle or on foot along dirt road with rice fields on both sides.
Campsite in Phongmey is below Monks quarters and between them and the
Phongmey Monastery, straddled across a wide grassy track. There is a stand pipe.
We were told that we were the first party to camp at Phongmey. Others have only
visited for the day. That novelty may explain the exceptionally warm welcome we
received and the general interest in us. Our experiences included:
1. On the evening of our arrival some 15 women – no men – arrived at the camp
site with brass bound containers filled with arak to greet us with a Tsogg Chang.
Each came forward in turn to place their container in front of us before the leader
brought glasses and poured us each a glass. We drank and the glasses were
refilled. All the containers were then emptied in to a large bowl and the group
departed for a communal party. We paid the leader Ng 2,000. We were told that
amongst the Bhutanese this traditional ceremony for welcoming visitors may lead
to serious ‘chatting up’ of visiting males.
2. The following morning we were invited to attend what turned out to be the local
equivalent of Rogation day, Beating of the Bounds and blessing the crops.
At 1000 we descended to a large farm house 500m below Phongmey with an
upstair room some 40’ x 20’ at the end of which the lama was seated, with some
dozen monks and an altar with a number of the monastery’s books. There were
monks sounding two large and two small trumpets. We were welcomed to seats at
the far end of the room and butter tea. A group of small boys danced, under the
leadership of a dance master, together with two ‘Friendly Spirits’ in skull masks,
who were there to ward off evil spirits.
The lama recited a number of prayers for a good growing season and various
people went up to be blessed, including some of us. Trumpets were blown,
cymbals clashed and drums beaten.
After the ceremony a procession of around 100 people formed up and began to
process up the hill to Phongmey, the women each carrying a book wrapped in a
scarf on their backs. All were in their best kiras or ghos. Trumpets sounded drums
beaten and cymbals clashed. The procession halted in the village square at
Phongmey where the lama said more prayers, scattered handfuls of rice and the
boys danced. There was a distribution of arak for those who wished it and the boys
chased people to ‘capture’ them with the white scarves used in their dancing. To
be released one has to pay a small fine 5 or 10 Ngu. They became bolder at
capturing us as the day wore on. During the afternoon the procession went further
up the hill visiting various farms and returned at nightfall. A serious party
continued in the Monastery yard until the small hours.
3. There are 2 other Monasteries at Phongmey. One is above the road from Radi
about 1km short of Phongmey and the other some 200m higher directly above the
town easily accessed by a path leading up out of the campsite by a dry stone wall.
[1 hr] This has recently been restored.
The Phongmey Monastery itself is notable for its central statue, and mural, of
Chenresig, with 1000 arms and 11 heads.
4. As Phongmey is the road head at the border of Merak / Sakteng a number of
people from there come to trade in the town. They are easily recognized by their
small round yak hair hats with five tails and the men by their red yak jackets. Hats
could be bought for Ng 250 and a jacket was acquired for Ng 4,000.
5. We had prearranged that, since we were unable to trek in Merak / Sakteng, a
group of men would come from Merak to perform for us. 15 did so. Not cheap at
Ng 1600 but worth every Ng. The experience was enhanced through the Lama
insisting that both his young monks and his main group of dancers perform in
addition.
The morning began by our taking butter tea and rice with the lama and then
descending to the flagstone yard of the Monastery, where chairs had been set out
under an open tent. A large number of locals were seated on the opposite side of
the yard. Musicians were between us, to the side. The total performance lasted 3
hours. The monks performed traditional Teschu dances in golden costumes with
masks; some exquisitely slow precise and delicate, others fast, whirling, leaping
and dramatic.
The Merak group first performed a series of traditional dances, of welcome,
celebration and other themes, some with accompanying songs. They then danced
the story of a king who had a hundred wives but no children and was then blessed
by a god and sired a prince. Of particular interest were two spirit dancers in
costumes of clearly animist origin. There followed dances with a two man ‘yak’,
(much like a pantomime horse) with a small figure on top, accompanied by six
dancers in different grotesque masks. A number of theses dances were humorous.
At the end we were all joined in a farewell, circular, dance.
6. The Monastery Lama, Yonten Phuntso, speaks some English and was a
generous and welcoming host. We made a gift to the Monastery of $200.
7. On the way back to Ranjung we walked down through rice fields from the road
to the village of Tzangkhar, a centre of raw silk weaving. 11 weavers brought out
their work and much business was done. A side visit not to be missed.
6. Ranjung to Samdrup Jonkhar [200 km] and to Guwahati [3hrs drive]
Day 1
Ranjung to Womanang
Visit the school for the blind at Khaling and the weaving school 2 km south of
Khaling. The shop at the school has the largest selection of fine silk fabrics,
principally scarves or kira or gho lengths.
The excellent and dramatic camp site is above a private goempa and below a
forest of prayer flags, on the left hand side of the road at the edge of the
escarpment overlooking Womanang.
Day 2 Womanang to Samdrup Jongkhar
There is not to recommend Samdrup Jongkhar other than to complete last minute
shopping
Day 3 Samdrup Jongkar to Guwahati [allow a good 3 hours]
It is [2008] not safe for Bhutan registered vehicles to travel without a military
escort in Assam so the journey must be made in Assamese registered vehicles.
Make sure all drivers know how to find Guwahati airport and preferably travel in
convoy. Exit formalities from the Bhutanese border post may be done on day 2, by
your guide. The Indian border post is manned by one official and entry formalities
take about 5 minutes per person.
The drive through the Assamese plain on appalling roads, heavily trafficked, is
extremely interesting. A complete contrast in almost every way to the mountains
of Bhutan. Intense rice farming with the road bordered by an almost continuous
string of villages.
7. Summary
This was a journey with a rich mix of widely varying experiences providing a much
fuller understanding of what life is like in Eastern Bhutan than is achieved by either
cultural tours or the remote treks in the west and centre of the country.
Quantifying what we saw and in no order of priority:
12 Monasteries or major Chortens
2 Dzongs
72 different birds
Rhododerons, tree orchids and innumerable flowers
Widely differing forests
A wide range of differing cultivation from slash and burn to rice terraces.
Eat 7 varieties of mushroom, wild leeks, garlic, watercress, bananas
Many silk weavers [purchases ranged from Ng 500 to Ng 10,000 dependant on size
and quality]
Merak dancers
Phongmey Teschu dancers
Daily encounters with, farmers, horsemen, shopkeepers, bar owners, weavers,
monks, teachers, children and others who without exception were friendly,
responded to our interest in them and were interested to know more about us.
8. Administration
8.1 There are a number of tours advertised to eastern Bhutan, but I was unable to
find any that include a trek. Tours drive to Tashi Yangste, Bumdeling, Rigsum,
Radi, Phongmey and stay in hotels.
It is therefore essential to employ an agent with guides who have local knowledge
of the paths and campsites availability of horsemen, location of weavers and speak
the local languages.
The reconnaissance carried out for our trip was critical to its success.
8.2 Our transport was a 20 seater bus for a group of 12, plus a 3 ton truck to
carry tents, equipment, food and luggage.
We had a larger crew than normal:
1 Head guide
1 Assistant guide
1 Local guide – from Mongar onwards
1 Cook
1 Assistant Cook
2 General Hands
2 Drivers
Tip for Assistant guide, Cook and Drivers was Euros 10 per day and for the others
Euros 8 per day.
Tip for Head guide is normally 150% of Cook but can be much higher the event of
exceptional performance – which we had.
On trek we had two different teams of horses and horsemen [ 4x the price of
horsemen in the west as they are farmers who would normally be working their
fields] Tip for horsemen was Ng 100 per head per day.
If at the end of the trek the group leave surplus or unwanted clothes, medicines,
batteries or other kit this is always welcomed by the crew.
8.3 Namgay Adventure travels provided a number facilities in camp beyond the
normal. There were two toilet tents and each had a seat on a study, foldable stand.
On arrival in camp there was a 40 litre plastic bottle with a tap containing hot
water, which was kept topped up. Candles were provided in the mess tent at night,
a more comfortable light than a Tilley lamp.
A hot lunch with tea were provided each day on trek.
8.4 We appointed one member as treasurer who initially issued each member
with Ng 6,000 [£75] for personal expenditure and issued further amounts as
needed. The treasurer paid all group entrances, donations to schools [Ng 1500]
and monasteries [Ng 500] and other expenses and dealt with the tips. This
arrangement worked well as we had no idea where or when money would be
needed and banking arrangements are few. The treasurer exchanged a total of
Euros 7,000 at the start into Ng100 and Ng 50 notes. It is sensible to hoard
smaller Ng notes wherever possible. When buying in the countryside on trek
people frequently have no change.
8.5 The group gave all gifts to school staff. We had no instance of children asking
for anything when in eastern Bhutan an avoided giving anything.
8.6 Beer is available in Trashi Yangtse, Bumdeling, Rangjung and Phongmey.
Local Bhutanese whisky is cheap, Ng 300 per bottle, good and available in the
above towns. Arak is an acquired taste and available everywhere.
8.7 I will be glad to respond to any queries.
David Lyon
22/06/2008