The Benefits of Using Compost
(courtesy of Global Service Corps – BIA Program)
We all know that crops need a soil rich in fertility. Adding compost to your soil will
provide some nutrients indeed, but its real benefit comes in the form of greater water and air holding
ability. The billions of microbes found in just one handful of finished compost will add certain
compounds to the soil which will cause the existing soil nutrients to be released in a slow and
proper manner to the growing crops. Compost will provide these benefits with no additional cost –
other than the time spent in the making. Synthetic fertilizers are valuable but extremely expensive,
and the cost is repetitious. It is not a one-time cost. And, with repetitive use, these chemicals will
deplete the naturally-occurring nutrients from the soil, creating an unhealthy dependency upon you
to provide the nutrients, many of which are not readily available for sale (just try to buy an ounce of
Molybdenum for example…) The BIA method deals with this problem by "growing" fertilizer –
Compost!
The many advantages to using organic compost include:
*Improved soil structure for easier workability
*Resistance to erosion
*Allows crops to access nutrients in the soil more easily
*Compost mixed into soil makes crops healthier and increases their ability to resist disease.
Most insects look for unhealthy crops to eat. Soil that is fortified with compost helps to
have fewer unhealthy crops and therefore, less chance for infestation.
*Organic matter within compost feeds crops through nutrient exchange and nutrient release
upon further decomposition.
*Compost creates a continual slow-release source of nutrients for crops.
*Organic acids in compost help dissolve minerals in the soil, making mineral nutrients more
available to crops. These acids also increase the permeability of root membranes therefore
also increasing the uptake of water and nutrients by roots.
*The bacteria which feeds on organic matter temporarily holds the soil together, thus
improving the health and structure of the soil.
*All of the materials needed to successfully “grow” your own compost are readily available
on most small farms. Compost is reliable and essentially free of cost, which is perhaps its
greatest advantage.
*Using compost also cuts down on the need for chemical pesticides and fertilizers which
can potentially be harmful to one's health as well as the health and sustainability of your
soil.
Necessary Materials for Building Compost
There are really only a few materials necessary for the creation of quality compost. The first
two materials are called "greens" and "browns." You will need to gather enough materials to
make the pile in one “go”. This will require you to gather the browns after harvest season and
save them till the rainy season when the greens are in abundance. An average pile will be onethird green and two-third brown.
"Greens" consist of organic materials that have been recently cut. For example, weeds that have
been recently pulled from the ground, or tree leaves and green plant materials that have been
recently cut. Basically green materials are called "green" because they are green in color. Food
scraps are also considered "green" materials.
"Brown" materials are materials that are dry, and have already been breaking down for awhile.
Grass, once cut and dried, is now considered a brown material as most of the nitrogen (the
green) has been lost to the atmosphere.
The third component is manure from cows, pigs, chicken and/or sheep.
The fourth component is soil to add needed decomposing microbes. Finally, water is required
to aid in the decomposition process.
Compost piles are built using a system of layering. Followed by a gentle mixing to make a
homogenous mix. A minimum size for a compost pile is one meter by one meter. A pile that is
smaller than that does not provide enough insulation, and the heat generated will escape.
Materials that should not be added to a compost pile:

Plants infected with a disease or a severe insect attack where eggs could be preserved or
where the insects themselves could survive in spite of the compost pile's heat.

Poisonous plants, such as oleander, hemlock, or castor bean.

Plants which have acids that are toxic to other plants and microbial life such as acacia,
juniper, and eucalyptus.

Plants which may be too acidic – like pine needles. (However, special compost piles can
be created using acidic materials to lower the pH level in soils that do not have enough
acid.)

Invasive weeds such as wild morning glory, cuch grass, Bermuda grass, and/or black
jack. These weeds may not break down in the pile and then when you spread the
compost on your soil, you may be spreading their seeds as well.

Manure from meat eating animals, like cats and dogs, which contain pathogens, are
toxic to small children and adults alike.
How to Build a Compost Pile
The minimum size for a compost pile is one meter by meter. There is no maximum size; it really
depends on how much space you have available and on how big of a pile you are willing to manage.
Larger piles might however, take longer to decompose and take longer to produce quality compost.
The first step is to choose a good spot for your pile. The ideal spot will be a section of ground that is
covered in shade. A shaded area helps to better regulate the heat created by the pile and aids in the
decomposition process. However, if shade is not available, building your pile in the sun is not a problem,
other than that it will likely dry out quicker and will require more management as a result.
Once you have found a good spot, it is necessary to clear the space of leaves, weeds and other debris so
you can see clear soil. Next, you will want to loosen the soil to a depth of six to twelve inches using a
fork or jembe. This provides the pile with a place for water to be absorbed.
The next step is to begin to build your first layer. It is important to understand that the first layer is going
to be larger than the rest, and the brown materials used are going to be thicker than the rest. You will
want to use brown maize stocks, twigs, and/or small branches for the first layer. Again, these materials
provide the pile with good drainage. Stack up the brown maize stocks, branches or twigs, until you have
a small pile that is roughly six inches thick and one meter squared. You have completed the first layer.
The second layer consists of one two-inch layer of green material. This should be piled directly on top of
the first layer, covering it completely. Note: the second layer should be smaller than the first layer.
Remember too, that if you have left over food scraps, add them to this layer. Subsequent additions of
food scraps can be added once the pile is completed by opening a hole in the top and dumping them in.
The third layer is a layer of soil mixed with manure (and optionally, wood ash). This layer is very thin,
only about one quarter to one half an inch thick. You only need to use enough to cover a small section
directly in the middle of the pile about one foot by one foot. It is important to not use too much manure
and to pile it directly in the middle of the pile. If you are using ash, you should follow this rule as well.
Only a small amount should be applied to the center of the pile. Once you have placed the manure in the
center, you can surround it with soil to cover the rest of the previous layer. This layer should always be
thin and just lightly covering the previous layer.
The next step is to go ahead and add some water to your pile while gently mixing the lower layers
together. You only want to add enough water so the pile remains damp, but not soaked. If it helps to
remember, you want the pile to feel as wet as a sponge that has been squeezed.
Now, you are basically done with the different layers. You just need to repeat this process. A layer of
dry, brown material four inches thick, followed by a layer of green material two inches thick, followed
by a thin layer of soil mixed with either manure, ash and or both. Continue this layering process until
your pile is one meter high.
The final layer should be made up of brown material that is about three inches thick. This helps to
contain any smell that can sometimes occur during the decomposition process. It also helps keep curious
animals away from your pile.
Allow to rest for 3 weeks. Then mix everything together and reform the pile, adding water to keep moist
if necessary. Mix once per week. By the end of two months you will be left with compost that looks
like loose, dark, rich soil. Spread a 1” layer over your double dug beds; mix it into the top 6”; and then
stand back and admire how healthy and vigorous your crops are!