1 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. The skin a. Layers of the skin b. The function of the skin c. Enemies of the skin 2. Common Problems and Solutions 3. Skin analysis a. Client Record Card 4. Sequence of Treatment PRODUCT INFORMATION 5. Cleansing a. SkinMate Cleansing Lotion b. SkinMate Facial Wash 6. Toner a. SkinMate Skin Toner 7. Eye Care a. SkinMate Make up Remover b. SkinMate Eye Cream 8. Moisture and Nourish a. SkinMate Moisturizing Lotion b. SkinMate Day Cream c. SkinMate Retinol A & E Cream d. SkinMate Night Cream 9. Exfoliation a. SkinMate Aloe Vera Scrub 10. Masks a. SkinMate Medicated Mask b. SkinMate Honey Mask c. SkinMate Rosemary Mask d. SkinMate Aloe Vera Gel 11. Machine Products a. SkinMate Disincrustation Gel b. SkinMate Facial Firming Gel c. SkinMate Hydrating Gel d. SkinMate Balancing Gel Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 p.2 p. 5 p. 9 p. 14 p. 15 p. 17 p. 19 p. 21 p. 24 p. 25 p. 27 2 THE SKIN The skin is the largest organ of the body and weighs between 3 and 4kg. As the most accessible and tells us about our environment through touch and sensation – which does not, for instance, apply to the kidneys. It is also one of the most interesting organs: the skin grows from the inside outwards and is constantly reproducing itself. It plays an important role in some vital bodily functions and performs these tasks very efficiently. LAYERS OF THE SKIN The skin consists of three layers: Epidermis This is the outermost layer of the skin and has an acidic pH. The epidermis consists of an outer horny layer of dead cells which are constantly being worn away from the surface and replaced from below. It is nourished and drained by lymph from the dermis. Pigmentation cells are situated in this layer. Dead cells are normally shed in a two week cycle. Dermis The ‘live’ part of the skin occurs between the epidermis and hypodermis. This is sometimes called the “true skin”. It consists of a network of connective tissue namely collagen and to a far lesser degree elastin. Collagen and elastin are complex proteins responsible for support and elasticity of the skin and enables the skin to regain shape after being pulled, stretched or pushed. The dermis is the largest layer of the skin and contains blood capillaries which bring oxygen and nutrition to the cells whilst removing waste products through lymph canals. Nerves and nerve endings sweat glands, hair follicles, small muscles and sebaceous glands also occur in the dermis. Every square centimeter contains about 2.3m blood capillaries. Sub-cutaneous (Hypodermis) Many books do not describe the hypodermis as a layer of the skin, since it is more of a layer between the skin and muscles. This is however the deepest layer of the skin. It is composed of loose connective tissue and contains fat cells, veins and nerves. These allow the skin to move easily over underlying tissues. The hypodermis in women is thicker than in men, which helps to form rounded curves in women. This layer acts as insulation and protects the internal organs from temperature variations and also acts as energy reserve from which the body can draw as required. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 3 THE FUNCTION OF THE SKIN 1. SECRETION a. Secretes sebum from the sebaceous glands b. Removes waste from the skin c. The skins natural moisturizer which helps keep it soft, supple and intact d. Protective barrier against bacteria 2. HEAT REGULATION a. Normal body temperature is 36.8˚C b. The blood supply and sweat glands mainly control loss of body heat c. Heat regulation is controlled in the following ways: i. Vasodilation – capillaries dilate allowing more blood to reach the surface of the skin ii. Vasoconstriction – capillaries contract, skin appears pale and heat loss in inhibited d. Body heat is lost by: i. Radiation – heat moves away from the body ii. Conduction – clothing absorbs the heat iii. Convection – cool air touches the body, heat rises and is replaced by more cool air 3. ABSORPTION a. Skin is a waterproof covering but some substances can penetrate the skin layers, the hair follicle and sweat glands 4. PROTECTION a. Acts as a barrier to the body’s invasion by micro-organisms like bacteria b. The natural acid pH of the skin surface inhibits bacterial production c. Sensory nerve endings found at different levels of the dermis warns of possible trauma d. Melanin is a natural protection against ultraviolet light 5. ELIMINATION Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 4 a. Perspiration is excreted by the sweat glands removing waste from the skin b. Toxins are eliminated from the body through the skin via sweat glands c. Toxins normally take the form of waste salts and water 6. SENSATION a. When sensory nerve endings get stimulated by external stimuli it send a message to the brain and the body responds via motor nerves b. Sensory nerve endings react to heat, cold, touch, pressure and pain 7. VITAMIN D FORMULATION a. Is essential for the formation and maintenance of bone b. The production of vitamin D is stimulated by ultraviolet light which converts a fatty substance in the skin, ergosterol, into vitamin D c. Excess of vitamin D is stored in the liver 8. MELANIN FORMATION a. The body make melanocytes-stimulating hormone(MSH) which causes the melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis to produce melanin b. A substance that produces a darkening of the skin and to protect the underlying structures c. Pigment protects the body since dark colours absorb radiation ENEMIES OF THE SKIN The skin is constantly renewing itself because of the following factors: An insufficient skin care routine can cause skin infection Excess exposure to the sun caused dryness, blemishing and early ageing Bad eating habits need a well-balanced diet, with all the necessary vitamins, minerals and antioxidants Genetic factors – influence your skin type Medical treatment – anesthetics and medication take months to get out of your system Pollution has a negative influence on the skin Air-conditioning and heaters – dry out the skin Stress causes tension and influences the appearance of your skin Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 5 COMMON PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS EXCESS OILINESS To prevent the pores from becoming blocked with sebum/oil, dead cells or other impurities, it is essential to keep the skin absolutely clean. Use the four steps in the skin care routine to normalize your skin. Eat a balance diet and avoid greasy food. BLACKHEADS (COMEDONES) This is caused by sebum/oil and dead cells, which harden and block the pores. As soon as the surface of the blackhead comes into contact with oxygen, oxidation takes place – hence the black area. Closed comedones are when a layer of keratin cells cover the surface PUSTULES (PIMPLES) A pimple develops as a result of excess sebum/oil and impurities blocking the pores and causing inflammation. Common during adolescence Do not squeeze or pick, as this will spread the infection MILIA (WHITEHEADS) Milia develop when sebum/oil gets trapped beneath the skin for whatever reason. By exfoliating, the upper layer of the skin will be shed, which, in turn will help normalize the skin since oil will be excreted easier. Milia on the forehead can be attributed to the above mentioned factors, but, generally that is a clear indication that the person suffers from high cholesterol. When milia appear around the jaw line and around the mouth, it generally is a clear indication of a hormone imbalance. However, a hormone imbalance can also occur as a result of stress. Milia around the eye area normally signify a too rich cream being used (for example, using your moisturizer over your eyes). HORMONE IMBALANCE Over and above the milia which may appear, another clear indication is the appearance of ling, dark facial hair. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 6 SEBORRHOEA This occur when excess sebum is secreted by the sebaceous gland, the hair and skin is normally very oily and enlarged pores are visible which makes it easy for comedones and pustules to develop. If this condition is not treated, it could develop into acne. ACNE Acne vulgaris is hereditary; the skin is extremely oily with large comedones The sebaceous glands are inflamed – acne normally develops on the face, neck, back and décolleté area and start during puberty and the earlier it starts, the longer this condition lasts. The most obvious reason for developing acne is the hormonal changes in the body at this age and stress, diet, and certain materials, like nylon can worsen this condition. Dermatologists normally treat acne with antibiotics to strengthen the skins immunity. For girls they prescribe female hormonal treatments or medication which contains extremely high dosages of Vitamin A which assists exfoliation. However, it should be noted that prolonged use of high dosages of Vitamin A could have detrimental effects If this condition is not treated, large papules can develop that may leave unsightly scars ROSACEA Is often confused with acne – this condition develops when a chronic congestion occurs in the superficial capillaries, the middle of the face normally gets affected and is prevalent in females undergoing menopause. The appearance of the skin is thicker with enlarged pores, impurities and broken capillaries and this condition can deteriorate due to the sun, heat, strong spices, alcohol and stress. COUPEROSE (DILATED CAPILLARIES) Can be genetic Rupturing can occur if skin is exposed to dramatic temperature changes such as: o In winter when leaving a warm home and going outside where the temperature is very cold o Air-conditioning – from a cool car to the extreme hot air outside o Bathing in hot water then rinsing the face with cold water o Opening of ovens, fridges and freezers o Jumping into a cold swimming pool after tanning Strong spices in food Hay fever can also cause broken capillaries especially around the nose area. Pressure, when one tries to force out impurities. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 7 ENLARGED PORES Excess secretion of sebum, through the sebaceous gland, which is attached to the hair follicle, leaves the muscle of the hair follicle relaxed which allows the sebum to secrete continuously. As time goes by the muscle becomes lazy and weak, which, in turn, leads to enlarged pores Products which dehydrate the skin. To compensate for this reaction, the skin produces too much sebum that can lead to enlarged pores The mature lady can also have enlarged pores due to the aforementioned having occurred earlier in life, without receiving corrective treatment. OTHER CONDITIONS OF THE SKIN Keloid Wart Dermatitis An elevated, enlarged fibrous scar, initiated by an injury A flesh-coloured, raised area caused by a viral infection Inflammation of the skin due to external factors. Normally starts as an area which is red and inflamed, accompanied by an itch. Tiny water blisters form, rupture and then leave a scar. Eczema Is an allergic skin reaction. Can be caused by various stimuli’s. Red, itchy patches Herpes simplex A fever blister which occurs around the mouth – mostly on the same place as before. It is caused by a virus, but will reappear if your immune system is run down. It is contagious. Psoriasis starts out with an area red in appearance covered with tiny silver scales. Although it is not contagious, the cause of this is unknown. However, it normally is hereditary, but can also occur due to stress. DEHYDRATION (LOSS OF MOISTURE) Exposure to the sun, wind or cold can deprive your skin of moisture The wrong skin care products can also deprive your skin of moisture and stimulate the production of oil. PIGMENTATION Pigmentation is the natural elements of the colour of your skin. Various factors influence pigmentation causing a concentration of pigmentation in a particular area, thereby leaving a brown mark (Chloasma). This condition, however, can be treated successfully, by using enzymes to exfoliate the skin, followed by a SPF. The absence of melanocytes leaves the skin with white spots (Vitiligo). This condition is caused by a virus and when exposed to the sun, and not protected with a sun screen, tends to worsen the white colour of the spots. Contributing factors causing concentration of pigmentation Hormones Pregnancy, menopause, The Pill (darkens during cycle), Stress After inflammation Damaged tissue ‘excites’ and stimulates blood circulation to heal the wound. Then melanocytes are stimulated which in turn causes the pigmentation. Skin disease Thickening of the skin takes place which causes dark spots to appear, as in the case of acne or eczema. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 8 Photosensitivity Ageing Trauma Due to the agents used in perfume, anti-histamine, antibiotics, citric oils and sweeteners in coffee, the skin develops sensitivity to light and causes pigmentation and/or a rash to develop. The activity of the melanocytes decrease and an uneven colour occurs (liver spots) The DNA formation can be altered and incorrect growth takes place due to free radicals. Anti-oxidants can normalize this situation. Avoid the following: Contraceptives with too much oestrogen UV rays Mechanical irritants such as scalding Chemical agents such as soaps Avoid using perfume on areas exposed to the sun IMPORTANTS OF CREATING A VACUUM MOVEMENT The skin absorbs oil better than water (otherwise you’d never be able to get up after having a bath) Gasses exist in the hair follicle and when you make a vacuum movement when applying a cream, you actually shake/disturb the gasses which allow the product (cream) to penetrate Penetrating agents such as Isopropyl Palmitate ensure that creams are absorbed; however by following the vacuum movements, a more rapid penetration is assured. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 9 SKIN ANALYSIS SKIN ANALYSIS SHOULD ALWAYS BE DONE IN GOOD CLEAR LIGHT. PRACTICAL SKIN ANALYSIS Skin texture Enlarged pores, rough or fine texture? If the skin has a rough texture with enlarged pores, it could be an indication that too much oil is being excreted in that particular area. Remember, that the person might have had a very oily skin when he/she was younger. Skin colour How does the colour differ in the neck to that of the rest of the face? Does your client smoke? Is he/she on any medication? If a person suffers from a lung ailment, the face can have a blue-ish appearance because of the lack of oxygen. Capillaries tend to swell out and the skin tends to have a more prominent red colour if the client is using aspirin or alcohol (remember that skin might become very sensitive with the use of aspirin) If the skin appears pale, it could be an indication of poor blood circulation Blue rings under the eyes signify fatigue, allergy or asthma. Menopause causes cheeks to become red accompanied by hot flushes – this is not a permanent condition Skin sensitivity It is a fact that you will find clients with either a thick or thin skin. Thin skin types are easily identifiable since those capillaries are clearly noticeable on the face, whereas the thicker skin type generally has a yellowish colour. Unfortunately, often the wrong conclusion is made when it is assumed that only thin skin types are sensitive and not the thicker skin types. An indication whether your client possibly has a sensitive skin is when the skin appears dry with possibly dilated capillaries on the cheeks. The skin should not be exposed to harsh treatment. The oily skin type is more complex. Normally people suffering from an oily skin are very conscious of this problem and often will go to the extreme by using excessively harsh products to try and rectify the problem. The skin then dehydrates, resulting in the sebaceous glands over producing oil to try and compensate for the loss of moisture, this then becomes a vicious circle and the skin ultimately becomes more oily than before, not to mention extremely sensitive to the product. Always ascertain what products your client is currently using to get an indication of the strength of the products that are currently used. The best is to ask your client if they have experienced any sensitivity or allergy ever before of any products and if they know what the cause was. Skin circulation Test the skin’s circulation by pressing your thumb on the client’s forehead. The skin should appear pale when you remove your thumb. The sooner the skin returns to its normal colour once Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 10 the thumb has been removed, the better the circulation. The longer it takes, the poorer the circulation. Skin normally appears pale if circulation is bad. It could mean that waste is accumulating in the lymph. Such a person should refrain from using excess salt and should drink more water. The intake of raw vegetables and fruit should also be increased. By looking at a person’s skin, one can easily determine how healthy that person is. Cellulite will also be a problem (as it would be very painful if one were to squeeze an area where it is present). The intake of water lightens the kidneys burden, since the skin helps the body to get rid of a lot of waste. You also tend to get rid of most of the impurities at night whilst sleeping by means of perspiration. This is quite normal and very healthy. It is said that you could lengthen your life span by perspiring enough. Oil and moisture balance It is very noticeable if there is excess oil on the skin since it is shiny and looks greasy. Conversely, if the skin is dry, fine lines will generally appear over the whole face. If the skin is dehydrated, fine horizontal and vertical lines will appear on the cheeks when you gently press it upwards. Ask your client the following questions to determine where the excess secretion is: o “Does your skin shine upon waking in the morning (too much oil), or does it feel taut (too little oil)” o “Does your skin shine 10 minutes after having cleansed it?” o “Does your skin shine by midday?” o “Which are as shine or feels taut?” You can never determine just by looking at the texture of the skin whether it is oily or not. By looking at the texture you will, however, be able to determine which mask she should use. Skin elasticity Can be tested by gently pinching the neck and the cheek area. If the skin restores rapidly to its normal position, it indicates that the elasticity is good. If it takes a while before restoring to its intended shape, it signifies that the elasticity is poor. An ageing skin will have wrinkles across the face. The muscles of the cheek bones and banks of the eyes will droop. It must not be assumed that only females between the age of 40 and 50 suffer from an ageing skin. You can be as young as 30 and have a skin that looks like that of a 50 year old person, due to sun exposure to the sun. An uneven skin colour and “liver spots” are clear signs of ageing skin. Abnormalities Any blemish or pustule is regarded as an ‘abnormality’. Special care must be taken to note all these details in order to make the correct skin analysis, e.g. to suggest the correct product for pustules. Progress can be monitored each time you compare your records with the previous findings. Once you have taken all these points (pigmentation, blackheads, pustules, wrinkles, etc.) into consideration, it ought to be possible for you to determine your client’s skin type. It is important to remember that more than one skin condition may appear on the skin. An oily skin on the cheeks covered with comedones and pustules, whilst the rest of the face appears normal are diagnosed as a combination skin, which means that more than one ‘skin type’ appears on the skin. Take care not to associate a combination skin with an oily T-zone Experience will show that most people have a combination skin. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 11 If there are a few pustules on your client’s skin, NEVER tell her that she suffers from ACNE. Acne is a disease of the skin which should be treated on its own and influences the entire body. A normal skin is where the oil-moisture balance is absolutely normal. Normally such a skin is blemish free and no pustules appear on the skin. This skin type is found in children before reaching adolescence. However, by using the correct products we are able to normalize the skin, changing it from combination to normal skin. But you will still use products for a combination skin type. Remember, from the age 25 the skin starts ageing. So, if you come across someone with a perfect skin, this does not mean that he/she does not need any skin care products. We still have to use the correct products to maintain the perfect skin. Each time your client acquires more products, you have to do a new skin analysis to see how the client’s skin has reacted to the products thus far. Also remember that many other factors can influence the state of your client’s skin, such as medication, the climate, the season etc. always do a new skin analysis – never let your client be stuck on the same products for a number of years. Client Record Card Required information: Full name and surname Date of first consultation Street and postal address Telephone numbers – work, home, cell and fax number Date of birth and anniversary date – phone her to congratulate her on her birthday or wedding day. Make sure that you phone her husband a week before the time to remind him or her of the birthday/anniversary. Coax him into buying her a gift from you. How may children there are and their ages. If she has recently given birth to a child, chances are that hormones will play a part in the skin colour, weight etc. Note her medical history; operations during the last 6 months, medication being taken, allergies, her doctor’s name and telephone number in case of an emergency. Profession – to establish if what she does for a living does not have a negative effect on her skin. (Sun, air conditioning etc.) Diet – does she consume enough water, fibre etc? Ensure that you have her sign an indemnity form against anything which could be held against you while she is in your salon, such as theft of in the case of a fire, etc. All the above information is kept on her client card which you retain in a file. This information below must be completed each time a product is being purchased from you and these details get also filed. When she comes for a facial or buys products: Skin texture Skin colour Skin sensitivity Circulation Oil-moisture balance Elasticity Abnormalities Products purchased by client Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 12 CLIENT RECORD CARD Name and Surname: Tel (H): Tel (W): Date: Fax: Cell: Postal address: Physical Address: Date of Birth: Children: Date of anniversary: Occupation: Name of Doctor: Contact number: Allergies: Medication: Contra Indications Contraindications requiring medical permission: Medical Oedema Nervous/Psychotic Cond Epilepsy Recent operation Diabetes Skin cancer Slipped disc Undiagnosed pain Whiplash Prescribed medication Contraindications that restrict treatment: Fever Contagious or infectious diseases Diarrhoea and vomiting Skin allergies Eczema Localised swelling Cuts Bruises Abrasions Sunburn Hormonal implants Broken capillaries Conjunctivitis Eye infection Hyper-keratosis Magnolia Beauty Equipment Inflammation Under the influence of recreational drugs or alcohol Trapped/pinched nerves Inflamed nerve Undiagnosed lumps & bumps Recent fractures Sinusitis Neuralgia Any other condition affecting the neck Migraine/headache Hypersensitive skin Botox/dermal fillers Stye Watery eyes Any known allergies © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 13 Understand and recognise other conditions which may affect facial treatment: Cardio vascular conditions Any conditions already treated by GP Arthritis Any dysfunction of the nervous system Bells palsy Postural deformities Acute rheumatism Cervical spondylitis Skin Test Moisture content: Excellent Good Fair Poor Muscle tone: Excellent Good Fair Poor Elasticity: Excellent Good Fair Poor Sensitivity: High Medium Low Skin healing ability: Excellent Good Fair Poor Skin Tone: Fair Medium Dark Olive Pores: Fine Dilated Comedones Milia Treatment to Include Superficial Cleanse Lash Tinting Mask Deep Cleanse Brow Tinting Pre-Heat treatment Eyebrow Tweezing Skin Analysis Massage Extra Notes: Therapist Signature Magnolia Beauty Equipment Client Signature © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 14 SEQUENCE OF TREATMENT 1. Remove eye make-up and lipstick 2. Remove superficial impurities with selected Cleansers 3. Do a complete skin analysis and choose the correct products for her skin type and for future use. Remember to fill in and update your client’s record card. 4. Cleanse skin with a selected Deep Cleanser suitable for her skin type. 5. Use an Exfoliator to remove all dead skin cells. Take special care to remove properly afterwards 6. Steam 7. Perform your facial massage. 8. Apply the appropriate mask. Remove excess mask with cleanser and lukewarm water after 10 – 20 minutes. 9. Apply the appropriate Toner with damp cotton wool. 10. Apply special treatment e.g. eye cream, etc 11. Apply appropriate moisturizer Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 15 CLEANSING Regular cleansing is absolutely essential for a beautiful complexion and a healthy skin. Cleansing is essential to remove impurities, dead cells and all traces of make-up. It prevents clogged pores and ensures better penetration of skin care products. WATER Oil-based products like sebum and make-up cannot be removed by water SOAP The pH balance in soap is considerably higher than that of the skin and is therefore alkaline. This high pH disturbs the protective acidic layer of the skin. It removes too much oil from the skin resulting in the skin feeling rough and dry. Soap can cause skin infections if too strong. EMULSIONS An emulsion always leaves a thin layer of cream on the skin and so has a nourishing effect. The Cleansing Lotion is an example of a thin emulsion. EXFOLIATION This is similar to a thin emulsion, which contains a granular substance. It exfoliates the skin surface, which enhances the formation of new cells. The ALOE SCRUB is an example of an exfoliating cream. CLEANSERS Contains no soap, only emulsifiers in liquid form. The emulsifiers gently remove all impurities to prevent clogging of pores. Application Use sufficient Cleanser and spread evenly over the entire face and neck. Use circular movements working outwards Work upward on neck You may also make use of zigzag movements It is very important to cleanses thoroughly around the nose, as it is the most common area for comedones and milia to appear Use a sponge and rinse off with lukewarm water Follow up with Toner according to skin type Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 16 SKINMATE CLEANSING LOTION Sizes: 500ml 1 lt Ingredients: Aqua Light Mineral Oil Stearic Acid Diazolodinyl urea Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Triethanolamine Cetyl Alcohol - Water Lipid, protects the skin Lipid, nourishes Antimicrobial preservative Anti-fungal agent and preservative Preservative A pH regulator Lipid, consistency former (hard wax) Directions for use: Wet face Collect one pump of Cleansing Lotion to cleanse the face. Lather evenly. Non-Foaming Rinse with luke warm water SKINMATE FACIAL WASH Sizes: 500ml 1 lt Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate Cleansing Agent (anionic) Cocamide DEA Foam and cleansing agent Rectified Spirits Normal alcohol; constricting, dissolves excess oil and a skin stimulant DMDM Hydantion Preservative Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Anti-fungal agent and preservative Glycerin Moisturizer Citric Acid A pH regulator and AHA which exfoliates dead skin cells and promote the growth of new cells. Reduces wrinkles. Lactic Acid Moisturizer, pH regulator and an AHA which dissolves dead cells and promotes the growth of new cells. Reduces wrinkles. Directions for use: Wet face Collect one pump of Facial Wash to cleanse the face. Lather evenly, will foam slightly Rinse with luke warm water Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 17 TONER FUNCTIONS: 1. CONTRACTS AND REFRESHES Muscles (erector pilli) in the skin contract to have almost the same reaction as goose bumps – refining the pores 2. REMOVES LAST TRACES OF CLEANSER FROM THE SKIN Freshner contains a cleansing agent, which enables it to removes excess cleanser from the skin acting as a secondary cleanser. 3. RESTORES THE SKIN’S pH BALANCE pH is the degree of acidity or alkalinity. The skin’s pH is acidic. Fresheners restore the pH balance of the to 4.5 – 5.0. Bacterial infection is prevented by an acidic pH. Acid ← (Freshner) 1 2 3 4 ↓Neutral 5 6 7 ↑ pH of the skin 8 9 → Alkaline (soap) 10 11 12 4. OTHER EFFECTS Fresheners often contain other agents, which have a healing and soothing effect on the skin: Lubricants leave a thin layer of lipids on the skin to keep it supple Active ingredients – agents with healing characteristics such as Allantoin Disinfectants – agents that are active against bacteria and fungi Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 18 SKINMATE SKIN TONER Sizes: 500ml 1 lt Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Rectified Spirits Normal alcohol; constricting’ dissolves excess oil and skin stimulant Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate Witch Hazel – Skin stimulant and constricting Citric Acid a pH regulator and AHA which exfoliates dead cells and promotes the growth of new cells. Reduces wrinkles Methyl Chloroisothiazalinone Preservative Menthol Skin Stimulant Methylisothiazolinone Preservative Directions for use: Moisten a piece of cotton wool with Skin Toner and wipe the entire face gently working outwards, concentrate around the nose. Always apply Skin Toner before moisturizing. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 19 EYE CARE Eye care is important because of the special needs of the eye area. The skin around the eyes differs from the rest of the face; it has less, if any, oil glands. The natural defense structure of this delicate area is not as well developed, the pH is different, the skin ages faster and it dehydrates quickly. That is why you cannot use the same moisturizer for all areas of your face. When cleaning the eye area it should be preformed gently. A specially designed eye make up remover that will remove mascara, eyeliner and eye shadow all in one should be used to save time. To strengthen and improve the eye area, a specific eye treatment should follow. Remember that we use facial expression when we speak. In South Africa we also squint our eyes on a daily basis to protect our eyes against the rays of the sun thus needing more elasticity in that area. EYE MAKE UP REMOVER Sizes: 250ml 500ml Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Light Mineral Oil Lipid, protects the skin Glycerine Moisturizer Sorbitan Stearate Protection from free-radicals. Helps to form a barrier on the skin and limits the amount of moisture loss the skin experiences Polysorbate 60 Emulsifier Diazolidinyl urea Antimicrobial preservative Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Anti-fungal agent and preservative Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Preservative Allcyl Acrylates Cross Polymer Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Also a thickening agent for creams. Triethanolamine A pH regulator Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifying agent and lipid Directions for use: Damp cotton wool Place a small amount of Make up Remover on cotton pad Wipe over eye area gently to remove make up residue Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 20 SKINMATE EYE CREAM Sizes: 50ml Ingredients: Aqua Propylene Glycol Acrylate/ C10 –C30 agent for creams Imidiazolidinyl Urea Triethanolamine Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Moisturizer Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Also a thickening Preservative and anti-septic A pH regulator Anti-fungal agent and preservative Directions for use: Apply to the eye area in the morning and evening after cleansing. Do not drag the skin. Use a patting motion for the application to the eye area. Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 21 MOISTURE AND NOURISH The skin can be moisturized/nourishes in two different ways: 1. Internally: The dermis has vascular – and lymphatic systems for internal nourishment and moisturizing 2. Externally: Penetrating agents are used to take nutrients through the skin’s structure – the regular use of an exfoliating product increases the permeability of the skin GENERAL NOURISHMENT Moisture Moisture is essential for all skin types because the lack of moisture causes dehydration Moisture is applied to the skin through a moisturizer such as the Moisture Lotion Oil Oil(fats/lipids) is needed by the epidermis and not by the dermis It is applied to the skin by means of lipids found in a nourishing cream such as Retinol A & E SPECIAL NOURISHMENT Vitamins Vitamin E is a very strong anti-oxidant and has a rejuvenating effect on the skin Vitamin C is used to stimulate the production of collagen and to regulate the skin’s colour Proteins Hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids are some of the best moisturizers Causes the dermis to thicken in mature skin, which in turn reduces wrinkles Metabolic Some chemical substances cause the peeling of dead epithelial cells Stimulates the formation of new cells, which enhance and rejuvenate the skin THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DRY AND A DEHYDRATED SKIN There are dry skin types with enough moisture and oily skin types need more moisture. Sounds like a contradiction. Let’s first look at the skin’s own nourishment mechanisms: Collagen is responsible for moisture retention in the dermis. With ageing, collagen fibres erode and lose their ability to retain moisture causing dehydrated skin (not enough moisture) Oil glands are responsible for the secretion of sebum, the natural lipids the cover the skin and hair and keep it soft and supple. As you get older the secretion of these glands decreases, causing dry skin (not enough oil). Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 22 The rate, at which these two processes (formation of moisture and formation of oil) decrease, differs from person to person. Some people have enough moisture but too little oil (lipids) while others have enough oil but too little moisture. When the two processes (too little moisture and too little oil) take place equally fast, it will accelerate the ageing process considerably; leaving the skin prematurely wrinkled. Moisturizing and nourishing can therefore treat two different types of ‘dry’ skin. A moisturizing treatment is necessary for a dehydrated skin (too little moisture) and a nourishment treatment is necessary for a dry skin (too little oil). SKINMATE MOISTURIZING LOTION Sizes: 250ml 500ml 1 lt Ingredients: Aqua Light Mineral Oil Stearic Acid Glycerine Monostearate Adeps Lenea Anhydrous climate and the environment Diazolidinyl Urea Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Thanolamine Cetyl Alcohol - Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Lipid, protects the skin Lipid, nourishes Emulsifier, lipid which nourishes Lanolin = Protects the skin against the ravages of Antimicrobial preservative Anti-fungal agent and preservative Preservative A pH regulator Lipid, consistency former (hard wax) SKINMATE DAY CREAM Sizes: 250ml 500ml Ingredients: Aqua Para Molle Alb Emulsifying Wax NF Heavy Mineral Oil D-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Chlorocresol - Magnolia Beauty Equipment Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Fragrance Emulsifying agent Lipid, protects the skin Anti-oxidant, rejuvenating and healing Anti-fungal agent and preservative Preservative An antiseptic and preservative © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 23 SKINMATE RETINOL A & E CREAM Sizes: 250ml 500ml Ingredients: Aqua Glycerine Light Mineral Oil Isopropyl Myristate Paraf Molle Alb Sorbitan Polysorbate 60 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer thickening agent for creams Imidiazolidinyl Urea Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Disodium EDTA Retinyl Palmitate Triethanolamine - Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Moisturizer Lipids, protects the skin Lipid, nourishes and penetrating agent Fragrance Emulsifier Emulsifier Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Also Preservative and anti-septic Anti-fungal agent and preservative Improves products stability towards air Vitamin A, cell growth stimulant and rejuvenating A pH regulator SKINMATE NIGHT CREAM Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Light Mineral Oil Isopropyl Myristate Paraf Molle Alb Sorbitan Stearate Polysorbate 60 Acrylates/C10-C30 for creams Imidiazolidinyl Urea Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate D-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Disodium EDTA Retinyl Palmitate Triethanolamine - Magnolia Beauty Equipment Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Lipids, protects the skin Lipid, nourishes and penetrating agent Fragrance Emulsifier Emulsifier Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Also thickening agent Preservative and anti-septic Anti-fungal agent and preservative Anti-oxidant, rejuvenating and healing Preservative Improves products stability towards air Vitamin A, cell growth stimulant and rejuvenating A pH regulator © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 24 EXFOLIATION SKINMATE ALOE VERA SCRUB Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Propylene Glycol Co-Polymer Polyvinyl Pyrolidene Triethanolamine Imidiazolidinyl Urea Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Disodium EDTA Polyethylene Beads - Magnolia Beauty Equipment Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Moisturizer Thickening agent and colour – burnt sugar PVP – Adhere to skin, binder A pH regulator Preservative and anti-septic Anti-fungal agent and preservative Improves products stability towards air Grains with scouring effect © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 25 MASKS SKINMATE MEDICATED MASK AND SCRUB Sizes: 250ml 1 lt Ingredients: Aqua Calcium Carbonate skin Kaolin PEG 32 Stearate PEG 6 Stearate Glycerin Polyethylene Beads Light Mineral Oil Diazolidinyl urea Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Methylchloroisothaiazolinone Methylisthiazoline - Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Mild astringent properties and helps to smooth and soften the Absorbs oil Emulsifier Emulsifier, lipid and nourishes Moisturizer Grains for scouring effect Lipid, protects the skin Antimicrobial preservative Anti-fungal agent and preservative Preservative Preservative Preservative SKINMATE HONEY MASK Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Glycol Works as a humescent, which causes retention of moisture content of the skin, by preventing the escape of moisture of water. Glycerin Moisturizer Rectified Spirits Normal alcohol; constricting, dissolves excess oil and a skin stimulant Honey Natural humectant, which means it attracts and retains moisture. An anti-irritant. Gives a youthful appearance. Can be used to keep skin blemish-free Diazolidinyl urea Antimicrobial preservative Acrylates/C10-C30 Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Also a thickening agent for creams Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Anti-fungal agent and preservative Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate Preservative Sach Ust - Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 26 SKINMATE ROSEMARY MASK Sizes; 250ml Ingredients: Urea Moisturizer Propylene Glycol Moisturizer Glycerin Moisturizer Rectified Spirits Normal alcohol; constricting, dissolves excess oil and a skin stimulant Acrylates/C10-C30 Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin Triethanolamine A pH regulator Rosmarinus Officinalis Oil (Rosemary) Effective astringent, eases puffiness and clears congested dull skin Methyl Paraben Sodium Preservative SKINMATE ALOE VERA GEL Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizing – forms part of emulsions Butylene Glycol Moisturizer and humectants Hamamelis Virginia Distillate Skin stimulant and astringent D-Panthenol Skin growth stimulant. Pro-vitamin B5. Conditions the skin Acrylates/C10-C30 Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Healing. Restores after sun burn Alcohol Normal alcohol; constricting, dissolves excess oil and a skin stimulant Magnesium Nitrate Serves as a gentle exfoliator Magnesium Chloride Soothing and healing damaged skin. Anti-allergenic that helps to protect the skin from rashes caused by allergens. Can also pass through the lower layers of the skin and heal the damaged skin cells. Methylchloroisothaiazolinone Preservative Butyl Paraben Preservative Methyl Paraben Preservative Phenxyethanol Propyl Paraben Preservative Triethanolamine A pH regulator Imidiazolidinyl urea Preservative and anti-septic Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Anti-fungal agent and preservative Carbomer Gives a nice feel to the cream and acts as a thickener and a gel agent Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 27 MACHINE PRODUCTS SKINMATE GALVANIC GELS DESINCRUSTATION GEL Negative Gel (-) Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Propylene Glycol Moisturizer Coffea Arabica Promotes the ability to dissolve fats in the skin and the distributing of the dissolved fat in the blood stream Aesculus Hippocastanum Horse-chestnut = Improves circulation. Reduces puffiness and oedema. Strengthens capillaries Hedera Helix Ivy = Has a decongesting effect, a.w.a. toning effect and also acts as a penetrating medium. Has a anti-fungal effect, improves the removal of waste products Acrylates/C10-C30 Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Thickening agent Disodium EDTA Improves products stability towards air Triethanolamine A pH regulator Diazolidinyl Urea Antimicrobial preservative Methyl Paraben Preservative Propyl Paraben Preservative FACIAL FIRMING GEL Positive Gel (+) Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Prolylene Glycol Moisturizer Camelia Sinensis Green Tea = Exhibits a photo protective effect. Reduces erythema. Protects collagen from breaking down. Cell-protecting function Echinacea Purpurea Purple Coneflower = Protective and strengthening Acrylates/C10-C30 Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Thickening agent Disodium EDTA Improves products stability towards air Triethanolamine A pH regulator Diazolidinyl Urea Antimicrobial preservative Methyl Paraben Preservative Propyl Paraben Preservative Magnolia Beauty Equipment © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360 28 HYDRATING GEL Positive Gel (+) Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Prolylene Glycol Prunus Amygdalua Dulcis Aloe Barbadensis Acrylates/C10-C30 Disodium EDTA Triethanolamine Diazolidinyl Urea Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben - Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Moisturizer Lipid, nourishing and penetrating agent Healing Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Thickening agent Improves products stability towards air A pH regulator Antimicrobial preservative Preservative Preservative BALANCING GEL Positive Gel (+) Sizes: 250ml Ingredients: Aqua Prolylene Glycol Fragaria Vesca Hamamelis Virginiana Acrylates/C10-C30 Disodium EDTA Triethanolamine Diazolidinyl Urea Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben Magnolia Beauty Equipment - Water, moisturizer – forms part of emulsions Moisturizer Wild strawberries = Astringent and boost your skin internally Skin stimulant and constricting Forms a thin, protective layer on the skin. Thickening agent Improves products stability towards air A pH regulator Antimicrobial preservative Preservative Preservative © copyright magnoliabe@mweb.co.za / 011 823 5360