Eastern Rhodopes and the vicinity of Kardjali Victor Marinov The Rhodopes or the also called Rodopi Mountains are part of the Rilo-Rhodopes massive, which is located in the south-southwest part of Bulgaria. This massive on the other hand is part of the bigger Macedonian-Thracian massive which in general is considered to be the oldest dry land on the Balkan Peninsula. To the south it’s limited by the Vardar and the Izmir-Ankara zone. Some of the rocks found there date back to the early Mesozoic or even the very late Paleozoic. Their rock composition is quite diverse. The rocks in the mountains themselves are Paleozoic or post Paleozoic plutonic but those from the kettles and lower parts are much younger and belong to the Pliocene period of Earth’s history. Nevertheless the rock composition of the upper layers of the eastern part is volcanic with a strong presence of old sedimentary rocks with both organic and inorganic genesis that were once covered by the Vardar Ocean, which was completely closed and disappeared by the late Jurassic. Formation of the relief occurred in several important episodes. First during the upper Paleozoic crust formed as a product of magmatic activity, later on during the Mesozoic at approximately 170Ma as a part of the Alpine folding cycles the Rhodopes experience series of compressions which culminated at approximately 110-90Ma. A second episode of expansion at around 65-70Ma created a number of cores or domes of heavily metamorphosed rocks. The domes were later on exhumed at around 37-34,7Ma. The elevation of the mountains is due to the postcollisional subduction of oceanic crust and lower continental crust of the Moesian platform beneath the Phodope belt. A rift within the overriding Rhodope block opened that was coaxial with the northward transport of the underriding Moesian platform. Upwelling of the mantle derived melts from the underplating beneath the Northeast-Southwest Rhodopes, which were strecthed and thinned as a concequence. In the end this resulted in the generation of the three modal alkaline, basic and acidic volcanic rocks by the partial melting of the crust and asthenospheric segregation. Batholitic magmas were generated by the partial melting of the undepleted lower crustal amphibolites, middle and upper crustal gneissic rocks and depleted lower crustal or subcontinental mantle. That is why it is quite common to find intrusive formations within the regular crust. During the latest of Earth’s history periods the shape of the mountains remained more or less unchanged because it was never covered by glaciations due to it’s geographical position at low latitudes and the relatively low height of approximately 1500m. The accumulation of most of the industrially important deposits of ores began during the late Alpine period. Earlier stages were more relevant to the mineral deposition. The of significance in between them are chromites, asbestos, talk, and quartz-goldpolimetal and quartz-galenite-sphalerite ores. Given their unique nature of formation, the Rhodopes were and still are a quite attractive zone for a diverse flora and fauna. They were as well a strategic territory for many of the cultures and civilizations that visited the peninsula. The mountains has been populated first far back in history by prehistoric men, later on the ancient Thracian civilization settled in the region. Afterwards the Macedonian and Roman empire left their mark by leaving significant amount of landmarks, many of which were related to the abundant mineral springs. Nowadays the Rodopi Mountains remain a profitable region for tourism both during summer and winter. The mild relief made it possible for all age groups to feel comfortable exploring its beauties. The natural world there includes so many protected plant and animal species that in the eastern part alone 4 natural parks have been created biggest of which are “Yumruk skala” (Fist Rock) and “Sredna Arda” (Middle river Arda). Extremely rare species of continental significance can be found there residing in the unique forest and rock habitats. Tourists and especially those from foreign countries are often attracted to the mineral baths where the healing power of the thermal waters are combined with therapeutic cares of specialist and the easing effect of the remarkable beauty of the environment. Nevertheless the region is not problem-free. Heavily exploited mining sites and agricultural tradition, dating back from before Christ, affect both the bio and lithosphere. Subterranean waters often are polluted by the waste sites that are being in use for a longer time period than the projected life span when being built. Besides they are way far from complying with any of the presentday standards and regulations of the EU. The main problem, as often is the case in the neighboring countries such as Romania and Macedonia, is that the waters the get most pollution are those at shallow depths and it’s exactly those waters that later on the population uses for irrigation and other household needs. Usually the hot thermal springs derive their water supply from currents bellow the water proof clay materials at depths bellow 50m, and that is one of the reasons why no serious investments are being made to improve the situation since most of the profiting businesses related to it remain relatively unaffected. Since most of the ore deposits are located at relatively low depths the mining process in general is open. The gathering can be done without creating galleries and digging deep. As a result the relief is heavily affected by blasting and spiral mining. This not only destructs natural habitats but populates the air in the vicinity with dust and disturbs the surrounding biotopes with the relatively high noise pollution. But as always the main source of problems are the waste waters from metallurgical industries which are quite common on the area. There are also some coal fields, which resulted from the compression of residual biomass that formerly lied on the floor of the shallow seas, but the impact on the environment due to them is almost irrelevant. The region is famous for the Ag and Au rich ores reaching up to 9 g/tonn for Ag and 4 g/tonn for Au. Of relevant importance are the Pb-Zn, Cu and Wolfram deposits. The main techniques for extracting the metals are: Froth-floating - used for sulphide ores. Oils can wet sulphides. Oil floats on water. Sulphide ores are first ground to powder and water is added. Then pine oil is added and the emulsion is agitated by passing compressed air. Oil and froth float on the surface along with the sulphide ore. The gangue particles being insoluble in oil remain at the bottom of the water tank. The froth is removed and allowed to settle down. This is called the froth-floating process. This process is used for sulphide ores of Cu, Pb and Zn Hydraulic washing - done by washing the ores with streams of water. If an ore is heavier or denser than the gangue, then the gangue particles are washed way with the stream. The heavier or denser ore particles remain behind and can be collected. Hydraulic washing is done for ores that have tin or lead, as they are found to be heavier than the gangue Chemical Separation – usually applied for Ag and Au. Some foreign companies are now planning to exploit new sites by using Arsenic which although is far more efficient than any other method is extremely toxic to the environment and would require the construction of special isolated dump sites for the residual production. Local population is in general against the usage of this element although the investing companies ensure to follow and even perform better than the required by the current EU regulations. The problem is that because of the economical strain that the country’s industry is going through the last 15 years most of the facilities for ore processing can no longer maintain the previous level of contamination control and often it happens that the residual waters are dumped directly into the river waters, which in general are considered to be suitable for consummation since their pH level varies in the range of 6,6 to 7,3, but after being contaminated with mining industry residuals present a serious threat. On a couple of occasions a very small mine for Uranium ores had accidental leeks into one of the feeder flows of river Maritza which endangered all life along the stream even beyond the national border since that river flows out to Greece. Fortunately the amounts released were too small to inflict any relevant and long lasting effects on to the environment. But after all what the Rhodopes are most popular about from geological point of view are the unique rock formations. The so called “Rock mushrooms”, the “Rock wedding” the “Rock window”, the “Pyramids of Kardjali” and the “Golden Bridges” are an absolute must for any tourist visiting those mountains and a trip to them is included in the packages of all companies offering touring services. Most of those forms are products of compression of volcanic ash sediments that were deposited on the sea floor around 50Ma back in the Eocene. Weathering of the unequally hardened layers of the riolite tuffs produced the strange forms that commonly resemble the shape of a mushroom. Average size veries between 2,5x2,5x2,5m and 15x7x10m (Wide x Long x Tall). Coloration in yellowish, pinkish and rusty are usually due to the inclusion of iron and manganese oxides, seladonite mineral is responsible for the greenish shine. Of great importance are also some of the caves in the eastern Rhodopes, seven of which are already declared national natural treasure. Most of them were formed, as usual, in sedimentary rocks by natural processes of erosion reaching depths of approximately 650m. On average they are divided into 3 floors. They host unique species of animals on a global scale. In the “Tilkin” and “Karangil” caves is the only place in the world where you can find the blind cave beetle and the cave spider (Centromeros Milleri) which spend their entire life inside the cave without ever seeing daylight. Other caves such as the “Karabekirova” where hosting prehistoric men during the neolite. Drawings and primitive bone and rock tools were found inside along some bone fragments of early humans. Other caves like “Snejinkite” (The snowflakes) and the “Brujlianina” found implication in the more recent history as being included in the architecture of some fortresses by the end of first millennium A.D. There are composed of a number of smaller caves interconnected to each other by small passages. The length of a single extremity exceeds 150m. Artificial caves called “The labyrinth” were formed in the interval I-III century A.D. because the site was exploited for gold mining by the Romans. The galleries are horizontal and reach up to 450 into the rock. The most relevant feature linked to the geological past of the Rodopi Mountains is the sacred Thracian city Perpericon. It is distinguished to be among top ten of the world’s most important relics of the ancient civilizations along with Stone Hendge, Machu Piccho and the Egyptian pyramids. It represents a sanctuary complex entirely made of rock blocks with no cementing material inbetween and incisions into the surrounding rock. The earliest sings of culture there are traced to be from the late Neolite. The upper part of the the Acropolis is surrounded by a 2,8m thick wall The site is currently being restored and new roads and supporting infrastructure is being built around so that in the near future it can become one of the main points of interests for tourism. As presented in this report the Rhodopi Mountains and especially their eastern part represent an unique collection of geological features which led to the development of many formations of cultural, biological and industrial importance both on national and international scale. Although some parts of it have already been declared as preserved areas the restrictions that the law imposes over such parks mostly govern the usage of the biogenic products and have little or no relevance to the preservation of the geological records stored there. That is why I believe that if taking into account the importance of the region this should be a first among candidates when a law for geological parks is introduced. References: http://www.bgd.bg/geology04.htm http://annual.mgu.bg/2003/bg/svityk1/svityk1_contents. htm http://www.bgd.bg/istoria1.htm http://kardjali.bg/?pid=5,24 http://www.bankwatch.org/issues/eib/nhwc/downloads/ei a-resume_bg_revised_last_not_marked-bg.pdf http://www.bluelink.net/water/zbr/mesta/hidrolojko_opis anie.htm http://home.att.net/~cat6a/metals-IX.htm http://www.kardjalionline.com/docs/kardjali_county_info.doc http://www.journey.bg/bulgaria/bulgaria.php?guide=425