CARING FOR YOUR FERRET
Ferrets are very social animals and prefer the company of people or another ferret rather
than being alone. They can share the house with dogs and cats but should be carefully
watched when together.
Ferrets are very inquisitive and mischievous animals that can squeeze into very small
holes. Beware of household objects such as washing machines, recliner chairs,
dishwashers, and refrigerators. Ferrets love to crawl into the mechanisms and can be
seriously injured as a result.
Ferrets are very sensitive to heat; they suffer from heat exhaustion before other animals.
They should be watched, or placed in a cool area if your house is not air-conditioned.
NUTRITION
Clean, fresh water must be available at all times.
Feeding Ferrets require higher levels of fat and digestible animal protein than dogs and
cats. Most cat foods do not provide the necessary nutrients for a long, healthy life.
Ferrets should be fed dry or pelleted food in order to keep their teeth clean. Totally
Ferret® is formulated especially for your ferret’s unique nutritional and digestive
requirements and is therefore the food that we recommend. Eukanuba® kitten formula is
the closest cat food to a ferret diet.
VACCINATIONS
The same virus that causes distemper in dogs causes distemper in ferrets. This virus can
be transmitted indirectly - this means that you could inadvertently bring the virus into
your home. Distemper in ferrets is extremely serious and is almost always fatal. Ferrets
are highly susceptible to the disease, and vaccination against it is one of the most
important things you should do for your ferret/s. Annual vaccination with a specific
vaccine (Fromm D or Fervac-D) is required for adequate safe protection. Ferrets are not
susceptible to feline distemper.
A virus that is transmitted by a bite and is always fatal to all warm-blooded animals,
including ferrets and people, causes rabies. Any ferret that is ever taken outside, on a
leash or in a cage must be vaccinated for your protection. Annual vaccination with a
specific vaccine (killed) is required for adequate safe protection.
SPAYING, NEUTERING, DESCENTING
Neutering of male ferrets, along with descenting, greatly reduces the strong musky odour.
Neutering also reduces many behaviour problems.
Spaying female ferrets is essential as they remain in heat indefinitely unless mated. The
extremely long heat period frequently causes severe anaemia and death. Ferrets can be
spayed while in heat; the sooner the safer. It is preferable to spay females prior to their
coming into heat that is before six months of age.
As long as an experienced veterinarian does spaying, neutering and descenting, using a
safe anaesthetic, complications are extremely rare.
GENERAL CARE
Ferrets can be housetrained to use a litter pan. Do not use clay litter (clumping or
regular). Instead use either Yesterday’s News® or Elegant John®. Clay litter can stick
to the back end of a ferret and cause obstructions and infections.
Ferret toenails need to be cut monthly. They should be brushed regularly. Do not bath
your ferret more than 2 or 3 times per year. This is probably contrary to what you have
been told in the past because “ferrets stink” if they are not bathed frequently. Actually
the opposite is true! The more you bath, the stinkier the ferret becomes because the skin
goes into overtime trying to replace the oils in the skin lost to bathing.
Ferrets often develop hairballs, which cause constipation. This is a yearlong problem but
is especially common when they are shedding in spring and autumn. To prevent
problems, use the tasty feline hairball laxative weekly and every three days during the
shedding seasons.
Ferrets are very shortsighted and so have no appreciation of heights. They readily jump
off tables or balconies and hurt themselves.
Clean your ferret’s teeth regularly by brushing them with malt flavoured toothpaste.
Dental disease can lead eventually to heart and kidney disease. Sometimes, a ferret will
require professional teeth cleaning under anaesthetic.
TRAINING
Consistent discipline is the key to training your ferret. Young ferrets are best socialized
at three weeks of age and training.
Nipping: It is very important that your ferret not be allowed to run free in your home all
the time. Otherwise you will start to look like a piece of moving furniture to him/her
instead of the human s/he relies on as the “primary care giver”. They need to know that
if they are bad (biting behaviour) you will punish them by putting them back in their cage
and taking away their much cherished “free time out”.
If your ferret bites your finger or hand do not try to pull away! That will make him hang
on harder. Instead, put your fingers on either side of his nose and pry the jaws open, or
grab the bottom jaw with the lips covering the teeth and push in. Once you are detached,
hold him by the scruff and with your finger in front of him and say “NO” forcefully three
times, then put him back in the cage. Try not to risk being bitten by putting your fingers
too close to their face. Young kits commonly nip at their owner’s toes; a behaviour
established by the rough and tumble play with their siblings. This behaviour must be
broken quickly as anyone who has ever suffered a ferret bite will tell you. A sharp “NO”
spoken about 6 inches in front of the ferret’s face while making eye contact best does
this. If this doesn’t work “Bitter Apple” can be applied to the owner’s socks. Hopefully
the awful taste will curb any further desire by your ferret to munch on your extremities!
Cage Training: Ferrets enjoy small, dark; hideaway holes so cage training is not a
problem. Feed and water your ferrets in their new home and they should retreat to it
when they need some privacy or a quick nap.
Litter Box Training: Ferrets can be easily trained. A box with 3 high sides and one low
side is best. Begin by placing the litter box containing some feces, in the corner of a
small room. Gradually expand the area in the house your ferret has access to until he is
successfully using the box even while having the run of the house. In larger houses, two
boxes are required. Ferrets usually relieve themselves minutes after awakening so be
ready to reward your ferret if he successfully uses the box.
Leash Training: Ferrets can learn to walk on a leash however they seldom master the art
of “healing”. Start by attaching a lightweight leash to a harness (a harness is better than a
collar) and allow your ferret to get used to this unusual apparatus. Once he appears
reasonably comfortable in the house you are ready to attempt a trip outside.
Sit Up: This trick is a favourite among ferret owners and can be easily taught. Start by
putting a treat such as “Vet Solutions Hairball Preparation” (available at WinRose), on
your finger and let your ferret lick it. Gradually lift your finger higher and higher until
your ferret will perform on command.
FERRET TOYS
Ferrets are intelligent, playful little creatures. These qualities coupled with their curiosity
and the ease by which these animals can be trained, will make for lively companions.
Very social animals, ferrets will engage in hopping, jumping, running, and grabbing
behaviour. Ferret toys that are designed with these activities in mind will provide hours
of entertainment for both you and your ferret. Care must be taken to avoid rubber toys as
rubber pieces can be chewed off and swallowed resulting in intestinal blockages.
Many household items can be converted into safe inexpensive toys. Aluminium cans,
cleaned, and free of sharp edges can be jumped on, rolled and nosed around. Plastic jugs
with holes cut out of them allow for a great game of hide and seek. Cat toys also make
ideal ferret toys. If you have an extra room in hour home you can create a wonderful
ferret playroom. Plastic toddler swings; slides, and sandboxes can be used together to
create an obstacle course. A favourite in playrooms is 10 cm diameter plastic drainage
pipe linked together to create a tunnel system. Another ferret favourite is a game of tuga-war so grab a good strong towel and hang on.
BUYING A NEW FERRET
Although many of you live in multi-ferret households, we have included some helpful
purchasing hints for those wishing to add to your ferret family.
1. ook for healthy, active ferrets in suitable enclosures that are clean and odour free.
2. yes should be bright, clean, even sized, and free from discharge.
3. They should have long, full whiskers. Short or broken whiskers may indicate poor
nutrition or infections.
4. The coat should be soft, full, and clean.
5. The kits should have a long, muscular, athletic body. They should also have a large
firm belly.
6. They should be playful, and gentle.
7. They should also be curious and not fearful of new things.
Companion ferrets do not have to be purchased together. An adult ferret will readily
accept another adult or kit. It is not advisable however, to house a male ferret that has not
yet been neutered, with other ferrets unless the intention is to breed as they become
territorial during the breeding season and may kill the other ferrets.
FERRET FACTS
1. Male and female kits start out at the same size at birth.
2. Mature females weigh 0.75–1.5kg (1.5–3.5 lbs).
3. Mature males weigh 1.5–2.5 kg (3.5–5.0 lbs).
4. Life span is 8-11 years.
5. Ferrets achieve 90% of adult size in the first 14 weeks of age.