(Updated 15/01/2016)
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
BACKGROUND
Pool Solutions offers a tough pool epoxy primer with a gloss protective topcoat epoxy in white, light blue, royalblue, charcoal-grey or black. Epoxy coatings are easy to maintain and offers long-lasting protection against algae
and staining when applied on marble plaster, fibreglass, cement-plaster or concrete surfaces. The product is
engineered to specifically offer qualities like acid and chlorine resistance when using HTH products and normal
pool acid in recommended dosages. (Please see the notes on after-care (page 7) and take note of some of the
products that have reportedly caused staining of the epoxy coat.)
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IMPORTANT
Maintaining the correct PH, alkalinity and Total Hardness levels will ensure longer lifespan of the product. Please
have your swimming pool water tested after filling the swimming pool. Test specifically for CALSIUM HARDNESS
or Total Hardness. Low Hardness below 300ppm will cause more excessive chalking of the epoxy layer and
reduce the lifespan. Low calcium levels may have been the culprit causing pitting and deterioration of your existing
swimming pool surface. Ensure Calcium Hardness is between 300-500 ppm. For guarantee purposes please
refer to the last two pages of this document.
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* Note for fibreglass surfaces:
Fibreglass pool linings can be coated with this product. For fibreglass pools ignore the notes applicable to the
cleaning and repair of the mosaic tiles and the grinding of marble plaster. Fibreglass surfaces should be solid,
crack-free and should not have formed bubbles etc. Start with the application of the Primer coat after thoroughly
scourging the fibreglass surface by hand with P60 grit sand paper and following the rest of this installation manual.
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Online help videos are available at : http://www.poolsolutions.co.za/diy.html
NB: NEVER DILUTE THE SUPPLIED PRODUCT WITH WATER, SOLVENTS OR PAINT THINNERS
(Any thinning will compromise the quality and mix ratio of the product with unpredictable results)
SHORT OVERVIEW
There are two possible ways of application that can be followed:
Long method (4-5 days)
If you are working alone or have limited help available with a relatively large swimming pool, follow the safer route
with our normal 4-5 day process.
Day 1: Used for the preparation of the pool surface and is done with 230mm grinders and flexible P16 fibre discs
mounted on a rubber backing disc to grind the surface to a clean, solid finish and removing all chemicals and
algae from the substrate. If cracks or pitted areas are to be repaired, this may extend the process into a following
day. Optionally a PCT56 water barrier can be applied if high water tables are suspected around swimming pool.
Day2: A saturating primer coat is applied. While this primer coat is still damp, after +/-30-60min, a first top-coat is
applied to bond or “fuse” with the sticky primer. (allow 2 hours during lower, winter temperatures below 18ºC)
Day 3: Sand the hardened, glossy epoxy coat to create a strong inter-layer bond and apply a second top-coat.
Leave to dry overnight. Sanding of any dried, glossy layer is very important.
Day 4: Sand the glossy second top-coat thoroughly again and apply the final top coat. (4-5days in total), 4-layers
applied. (Note, In winter time below 15ºC, allow a day in between top coat applications).
Please Note: Sometimes, experienced applicators can apply thicker layers evenly at a time and might be able to
use all the Topcoat product provided in only two topcoat layer applications. As long as most of the Topcoat
product provided for your size swimming pool have been used, the total, dried coating thickness will be within
specifications to ensure a long lifespan.
Quick method (2-3 days)
In summer times, if you are confident that you can manage the whole process on one day with no possibility for
rain, you may consider the quicker method. Visit www.poolsolutions.co.za/diy.html for more detail regarding
the quicker method. (Note: follow the longer method during colder temperatures below 20ºC)
Day 1: Follow the exact same steps as indicated under point 1 under the longer method.
Day 2: Follow the steps as indicated under Day 2 of the longer method above.
Wait approximately 60-90 minutes after application of the first top-coat layer. While the fist epoxy layers are still
damp/tacky (60-90 min.), apply a second Top-coat layer (3rd epoxy layer) using Mowhair rollers fitted to extension
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or telescopic extension poles. Walk around the pool to apply the epoxy paint without entering into the swimming
pool. Alternatively, you can perform this task by entering the pool on spiked paint shoes. After 60-90 minutes
after application of the second top-coat layer (3rd epoxy layer) while the epoxy is still damp/tacky, apply the last
and 4th epoxy top-coat layer using the extension poles or spiked shoes as indicated. While applying each coat with
rollers, another helper should use a paint brush to paint along the bottom line of the mosaic tiles and around other
mosaic patterns etc.
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DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
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INSPECTION OF THE POOL SURFACE
The epoxy coat is targeted as a gloss, enamel decorative layer to restore the appearance of the swimming pool
and reduce the maintenance effort. The epoxy layer will not strengthen the structure, prevent cracking of the
underlying surface or necessarily stop leaks. The underlying fibreglass lining or plaster surface must be strong,
hard and solid to support the paint layer. Tap the plastered pool plaster surface to ensure that there are no
brittleness or pieces breaking loose. Such areas should be repaired before applying the epoxy paint. Fibreglass
linings should be repaired if there are cracks or bubbles using a proper fibreglass repair kit.
On plastered pools, check for wet spots penetrating through the structure from outside the swimming pool
indicating high water tables, porosity, cavities or cracks in the concrete shell. Do not apply the paint on a
damp/wet surface or damp spots. Wet spots can be drilled or grinded open to allow water to freely flow into the
swimming pool until the spot becomes completely dry. This can take several days or even longer.
On a small percentage of swimming pools, we have found that slow penetrating osmotic water pressure from
outside the swimming pool may result in small bubbles forming in the coating afterwards. To prevent this, test for
potential osmotic pressure. Grind a cross-hatched pattern (1-2cm deep) through the marblite layer or plaster
down to the concrete layer (+/- 5cm x 5cm area) See our online videos. Chip the area out to create an inspection
hole. This can be done preferably on the vertical side of the steps and at the bottom of the deep end. Test with
fingers and visual inspection for dampness inside the structure. If dampness is detected, treat the pool surface
with a water barrier like PCT56 water repellent at least a day before applying the epoxy paint. PCT56 can be
ordered from us or is available at certain hardware outlets. The spread rate for PCT56 is +/- 7-8m² /L. PCT56 can
be sprayed onto the surface with normal household sprayer nozzles or using a pesticide garden sprayer pump.
Sand the surface slightly the next day with a P80 sandpaper before applying the epoxy primer layer. Inspection
holes can be filled up again with Underwater Pool Patching, cement plaster or marblite. Use “PCT56” as a
search term on Google Search for more information via the internet.
New swimming pools constructed with concrete and plastered with normal cement plaster, should be treated with
PCT56 as a standard precaution. When using a cement plaster it is further recommended to us a bonding liquid
like Sika Light with the plaster water.
PREPARATION OF THE POOL
The preparation of the pool surface is an important part of the process and should be done with extra care. Any
moisture, dirt or acid residue left on the surface during the application of the product will have a degrading effect
on the final finish. Do not acid-wash the pool beforehand. If an acid-wash was performed, the surface should
be thoroughly neutralized with bicarbonate soda, do this process twice using splash-brushes and washing the
neutralizer off with water, applying sufficient pressure to deep-clean the surface. Inherent acid in the surface
under the coating will migrate into the coating and appear as yellow discolouring after a while.
1. Empty the pool. Electrical or petrol pumps can be hired from most tool hire companies like Talisman,
Toolhire, and Hire Quip etc. Ask for a long outlet pipe in order to drain the water into the street’s storm water
drains and preferably not into the complex our house municipal drains.
2. To clean mosaic tiles, apply iKleen7 (undiluted) with squirt nozzle or sponge, leave for 10 minutes to soak.
Scrub the tiles with rough scrubbing sponges and water. (iKleen7 is available from Pool Solutions and is nontoxic and safe on the skin). Visit www.poolsolutions.co.za/ikleen7.html for photos and more information on this
product.
3. For grind-cleaning of the tiles to remove heavy calcium layers, P36, 180mm fibre grinding discs or “Wire
Wheel 50 x 12” or “Flap wheel sander 60 x 40mm paint remover disc”, (Disc - Sanding 115mm Flap 80, may
also be used). These discs are mounted on an angle grinder or electric drill to remove dirt from heavily stained
tiles. 3 to 4 of these discs will be needed for a normal size pool. (Available from hardware stores). It is
advisable to first test these grinding wheels on a small portion of the tiles. Also watch the online video.
NB! It is essential that the tiles be scrubbed with water to remove all chemicals from the tiles. Acid and
chemicals may contaminate the epoxy and cause yellow staining of the newly applied epoxy layer.
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Tap the whole pool surface to check for marble plaster that is breaking loose. Hollow sounds are acceptable
if the marble plaster is thick, strong and does not show movement or cracking.
5 Chip out the loose plaster, fill and repair. For small repairs, use Underwater Pool Patch (from Cemcrete),
also available from Pool Solutions or other swimming pool outlets. Mix the Pool Patch cement powder with
water and work into a paste. Fill the holes or cracks using a putty knife. When dry, sand or grind down to a
smooth and level finish. Underwater Pool Patch will be dry within a few hours or can even be dried quicker
using a heat gun or hair dryer.
6 Large resurfacing of a damaged pool surface can be done with normal cement plaster, the plaster water
should be mixed in 10:1 ratio with a bonding liquid like Sika L (available from most hardware stores).
7 Scourge the whole pool with P16 flexible fibre discs mounted on a 230mm angle grinders fitted with M14
flexible rubber backing discs until green algae, loose or brittle plaster and dirt are removed. (P16 flexible
fibre discs and M14 Rubber Backing discs are available from Pool Solutions, P16 discs, manufactured by
Lucas Abrasives are the correct type.) Black algae and dried algae that has penetrated deep into the
surface and has fossilized over time, becoming part of plaster surface does not need to be removed or
grinded out completely, it can be painted over if these spots are hard and solid. The main idea of the grinding
process is to remove loose green algae or material and chemicals.
8 Alternatively if the pool offers a very solid and hard surface, a high-pressure washer with at least 200KPa
pressure capability can be used to clean the pool surface instead of grinding. The high-pressure washer
equipped with a rotating-pencil-nozzle works best. High-pressure-wash the pool at least twice at 4-6cm
distance from the surface. The pool must be completely dry before applying the first Primer coat. If the marble
plaster cannot withstand this pressure and form uneven hollow spots, rather grind the pool surface as
described above.
9 After grinding, remove the dust by broom and scoop and wipe the surface clean with damp cloth.
10 If wet spots appear from the outside of the pool and doesn’t dry after a day, drill a hole through the pool
structure to drain the water table. Fix later with Underwater Pool Patching. If reverse osmosis is suspected
due to high water tables around the pool, it is strongly advisable to treat the pool surface with a damp sealer
like PCT56 (available from Pool Solutions and some hardware stores). This will help to prevent blistering at a
later stage due to excessive water pressure from the outside.
11 Remove all water from the weir. Blow hard into the outlet-nozzles to remove water from the pipes.
TIP: To prevent dripping from the inlet jets of the pool, create ”plugs” using cloth
bundled into a small plastic bag. Smear the plastic bag with silicon sealant on the
outside and push tightly into the pipes after removing the jet nozzles. Alternatively
use balloons stretched over the nozzle heads to catch dripping water. Keep an eye on
balloons that may be filling up.
12 New cement- plastered pools (or concrete) must have a hard and solid finish. Brittle cement surfaces may
break loose with the epoxy coat later. It is recommended that Sika Light or a similar bonding liquid product
be mixed with the water when mixing cement-plaster. New concrete structured pools must dry for the industry
recommended drying time specified for concrete, (28 days) before painting.
13 On newly cement plastered pools, test the moisture content of the substrate by placing a clear plastic sheet
(1m x 1m) on the floor of the pool in a sunny pot and tape the edges with masking tape. If no moist or
dampness has formed underneath the plastic after two days, it is an indication that the surface might be dry
enough for the paint process.
14 Do not paint the mosaic tiles or between the tiles. A paintbrush can be used paint along the bottom tile edge
and in sharp corners. For the rest of the surface, MOWHAIR rollers can be used. Short-pile rollers intended
for enamel paints work best with this thick type of epoxy resins, sheepskin rollers tend to tear and leave
particles behind. Paint relatively fast with the rollers while the epoxy paint is still wet as it becomes more sticky
with time and can start to tear fibres from the rollers. Experienced painters may choose to paint without
applying masking tape along patterns and tiles and using the rollers or brushes to neatly paint along the
edges. Mowhair type Rollers are disposed of after each layer and you will need a new set of rollers for each
layer. Use the same roller handle and use separate roller refills for each layer. Masking tape, if used, should
be removed directly after painting each layer while the product is still damp.
15 Keep in mind that the pot-life of the product may vary between 15 min (very warm days) and 60 min (cold
days). The higher the ambient temperatures, the shorter the pot life. The product mix should be applied within
this time span. Use a second helper to do the applications by brush while another is rolling the rest of the
surface to save time.
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NB! Mix only limited amounts (e.g. 2L) at a time to ensure that the amount of mixed product
are utilized before end of pot-life, especially during hot conditions. All unmixed products
should be kept cool and in the shade. In very hot conditions above 35°C, the A and B
component containers can be kept in a larger container with cold water or ice to help
prolong pot-life if necessary, although this is normally not necessary. Under very hot
conditions paint early in the morning while the pool surface is still cool.
16 During the winter months below 15ºC, rather keep all product supplied in a sunny spot to help warming and
lower viscosity for easier mixing and faster cure times after application.
17 Make provision for a plastic drop sheet (available from hardware stores) on the outside near the steps of the
pool. Use this area to always leave the pool, leaving gumboots and gloves behind on the sheet. This will
help to prevent contamination of the paving and other surrounding areas. Keep paint solvents, or Methylated
Spirits (or Paint Thinners) and mutton cloth on the drop sheet to remove any wet epoxy where
contamination of the tiles or paving has occurred.
18 NB! Epoxy contamination must be removed while the epoxy is still wet.
19 Workers tend to stabilize themselves with one hand (normally with epoxy on it) against the coping stones and
paved edges while painting, keep an eye out for fingerprints left on these edges and the mosaic tiles while
they work.
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WARNINGS and DISCLAIMER
Use rubber gloves, gumboots, masks fitted with chemical filters and/or dust filters, safety glasses,
especially when working with acids, Mosaic Wonder and any form of chemical. Many products including
epoxy paints may be harmful to the skin, eyes and lungs, especially in non-ventilated areas. The epoxy
products may contain solvents and chemical vapours like benzene alcohol. Avoid inhaling the vapours.
Immediately wash of all contamination on the skin. Wash skin with Methylated Spirits, warm water and
soap. Protect your eyes at all times while mixing or applying these products. Do not eat, drink or use the
toilet during application of the products. Remove contaminated clothing and thoroughly wash and
shower before eating. Contamination of eyes should be treated by thorough washing with clean water
and milk for 15 minutes. Consult a doctor immediately.
Paint products may be flammable to open flame, avoid open fire and smoking while applying and near
storage areas.
Disclaimer: Pool Solutions, the owners or any of their dealers or affiliates, will not be held responsible in
any way for any accidents, injuries, health-related problems or any other damage claims arising from the
storage, use, or application of the supplied products.
PRIMER APPLICATION
Keep the products marked Topcoat apart and away from the Primer to prevent accidental intermixing with wrong
components.
The Primer is supplied in two components namely Primer-A and Primer-B. The two parts should be mixed with
a ratio of 3:1 per volume (not weight).
(Refer to the labels on the containers to identify the correct components marked Primer A and Primer B)
Example (3:1):
PRIMER-A
PRIMER-B
1.5 l
0.5 l
Mix in manageable quantities typically 2 litres at a time as the product has a pot life of 30 min or even 15
min on very warm days. (Keep products in the shadow or a cool spot for longer pot life)
TIP: Use 500g margarine holders or similar cups to measure 3 parts Primer A and one
part Primer B epoxy liquids. This should result in practical and manageable mixed
quantities. Do not try to mix minute small quantities of the product, as this might be
inaccurate and may result in failure to properly set or develop good properties.
Smaller quantities can be measured using 60ml syringes if required.
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First stir the Primer-A separately in the supplied bucket with a drill and mixing tip for 1 minute at medium
speed. Measure and add the two components together and mix well for +/- 2 minutes at medium speed.
Use an electric drill fitted with a paint mixing tip (available from Pool Solutions or hardware stores) to do all
the mixing. If not available, rather use a flat paddle rather than a round stick. Wash the mixing tip in solvents
or Methylated Spirits between mixes of different parts of epoxy to prevent cross-contamination.
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Use MOWHAIR or Mock Mohair rollers or other short-pile type rollers to apply the epoxy mix. Apply a wet
saturating primer layer. The expected coverage is between 14m2 -18 m2 depending on the porous nature of
the surface. (Typical spread rate on old, hard marblite). New cement will absorb more primer.
4 Start at the deep end and paint the walls and floor, working your way from the deep end to the shallow end.
Do the steps lastly.
5 Use enough mixed primer to saturate the surface. Patches with different shades of yellow/brown will be
visible after application, this is normal.
6 Every 10 minutes after the primer coat was applied, check for any dry absorption-spots forming and
recoat these spots where necessary.
7 Start early to allow time to apply the first top-coat on a damp and sticky primer coat on the same day.
8 Temperature plays a role in drying times with epoxies. Epoxies will drastically increase pot life and layer
drying time under lower temperature conditions. During warm conditions the coating will become touch-dry
after 3-4 hours and will be rain-resistant. (12-18 hours during cold winter conditions)
9 The top edges (top 500mm) of the pool and the steps should be coated and sealed with extra care and
saturated properly with primer to protect against garden moist and water penetrating into the walls of the pool
from outside.
10 Test every 10 minutes by touching with the fingers on different spots in the sun. As soon as the primer starts
to feel sticky at certain spots it is a sign that you should start with the application of the top-coat (normally after
30-60 minutes on warm days, this may be extend to two hours on cold winter days). On very hot days, the first
topcoat can be applied immediately after finishing the primer application, starting from the deep end again.
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Apply the first Top-coat after +/-30-60 minutes (120 min in winter) while the primer is still damp
everywhere. Do not allow the primer to totally dry in some areas. Rather start while still a bit too wet than
letting it get become touch-dry. If the primer coat was left to become completely touch-dry before
applying the first top-coat, rather stop, leave the coating to completely dry and proceed the next day.
Sand the dried, hardened epoxy coat layer and apply the top-coat on the well-sanded primer.
Any epoxy layer left to completely harden during the application process must first be sanded before applying
the next coat to remove what is called “blushing”, a wax-like residue that forms on the top surface of a completely
dried epoxy layer. Failure to do this will result in inner-layer de-lamination at a later stage
11 Use gumboots or old shoes, or plastic bags over bare feet to walk on the wet, sticky primer coat. This will
prevent large marks to be left in the soft epoxy. Alternatively use Spike Paint Shoes (available from Pool
Solutions) to walk on the wet Primer epoxy, the pin-holes caused by the spikes will fill up again. These shoes
will speed up the application process. (Any old spike shoes can also be used.)
TOP-COAT APPLICATION
Mix the Topcoat components marked Topcoat-A and Topcoat-B (Ratio 3:1 per volume
(Refer to the label on the container to confirm the exact mix ratio for the specific Topcoat supplied)
Example (3:1):
Topcoat-A
1.5 l
Topcoat-B
0.5 l
NB: Mix 2 litres at a time as the product has a pot life of 45 min or even less on very warm days (15 min).
Do not apply or try to dilute the epoxy after it has started to gel. Rather mix 2 litre quantities if you are
unsure about your application speed.
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Regularly stir the Topcoat-A part separately for +/-2 min in its container before measuring out to ensure a
homogenous mix throughout the project as it contains heavy pigments that may settle after a while. Not
stirring the Topcoat A separately may result in spots not curing, uneven colour patches or a coating that is
compromised regarding its chemical resistance etc.
Measure the quantities Topcoat-A and Topcoat-B before mixing. (Tip: Use 500g margarine holders or similar
containers to easily count and measure 3 parts Topcoat-A and 1 part Topcoat-B)
The first Topcoat need not to be applied very thickly on the wet/damp Primer layer to prevent running marks.
The result may still appear a bit patchy and uneven, this is normal. Ensure that no dripping or drops are
forming while applying by roller. Re-roll where necessary to remove teardrops.
Apply the first Top-coat on a damp, sticky primer coat as explained earlier under the Primer Application. Start
at the deep end and work your way from the deep end to the shallow end. Take care as the wet primer coat
might be slippery. Work fast on warm days as the Primer will become sticky or hard quickly during very hot
conditions and when applied on heated surfaces.
On warm days, sweat from the workers dripping into the topcoat might cause yellow stains, let them use
headbands to help prevent this, especially when applying the final top coat.
Walk around the pool looking directly downwards at the surfaces below. Touch up spots that are fading or
where spots were accidentally skipped.
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Leave the first Topcoat to dry overnight. This way it will also be easier to walk with bare feet in the pool the
next day without damaging the first layers while applying the second Topcoat. During colder conditions an
extra day of drying might be required in-between Topcoat layers for complete drying.
8 The first Topcoat that was left to dry overnight will form a hard, glossy layer. The hardened layer must be
sanded by hand using P60 grit sand paper the following day to break the gloss a bit. A gentle rub with 60 grit
sandpaper everywhere will be sufficient. Epoxy left to dry for longer than 48 hours becomes very hard and
glossy and will require more effort with the sanding process. Ensure that the complete surface was sanded
without skipping spots.
9 Apply the second Topcoat on the sanded first Topcoat layer the next day. Apply a thicker coat this time.
10 After sanding the hardened second top-coat layer the next day. Apply the third top-coat in the same manner.
Do not apply too thin. An ideal spread rate would be 12-14m2 / ℓ..
11 If excess top coat product is still left over, recoat the steps and the top 500mm of the pool as soon as the
previous coat becomes sticky (before touch-dry).
12 Enter the pool after one day with socks and feel the surface through for any sharp points etc. Use a knife to
cut any sharp edges or sand down with fine sand paper. If necessary, a small quantity topcoat can be mixed
in correct ratio for touch-ups, e.g. mix 60ml-A with 20ml-B. (Use 60mL syringes to measure the quantities).
13 Allow 3 days for hardening before adding water, in winter times allow 7 days.
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CLEAR-COAT EPOXY TO COVER MOSAICS
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a Clear-coat epoxy can be applied over grinded mosaic tiles or artworks:
Use left-over product or product ordered extra to mix a clear-coat epoxy as follows:
Mix Primer-A with Topcoat-B in a 3:2 ratio (3 Parts Primer-A and 2 Parts Topcoat-B). Gloss surfaces must be
grinded for increased mechanical bond with the Clear-coat epoxy. See our DIY help videos online for more info:
http://www.poolsolutions.co.za/videos.html
Clear coat epoxy is applied without a primer. Clear coat, especially in areas exposed to direct sunlight might not
last as long as the multilayer, tinted epoxy layers, and more regular refurbishment might be necessary.
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CREATING A NON-SLIP COATING FOR SWIMMING POOL STEPS
1. Glass beads (400 – 800 micron) can be used to create a non-slip area during the application of the epoxy
paint. The glass beads are supplied in 150g quantities which is enough to create a non-slip area of +/- 1020m ². (Available from Pool Solutions)
2. Drill 2mm size holes (+/-10-12 holes) in the cover of the small plastic bottle in which the glass beads are
supplied and use the bottle as a dispenser to evenly spread the glass beads onto a wet epoxy top coat layer.
Hold the bottle upside down approximately 10cm above the surface and shake the bottle slightly up and down
to release the beads while moving the bottle across the area to be covered.
3. After application of the final epoxy layer, immediately sprinkle the glass beads on the steps and areas where a
non-slip finish is required. Apply a thicker layer of epoxy on areas to be sprinkled with the glass beads.
4. Another method is to add +/-80grams of beads per 1L of mixed epoxy Topcoat during application of the last
and final topcoat layer on the areas to be treated with the glass beads. While constantly stirring or shaking
the paint bucket to prevent settling of the glass beads to the bottom. Apply the glass-beads-epoxy-layer on the
areas to be treated using a brush along tile edges and a roller where possible. It is important to apply the
epoxy paint while continuously stirring the paint with the glass beads. Don’t use a paint tray, apply the paint
directly from the paint bucket while shaking the bucket, or constantly stirring the paint in the bucket.
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SUPPORT WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
Should you experience any problems with the epoxy application, feel free to contact us and we will be willing to
assess the problem and help you to resolve it the most cost-effective way. Mishaps can happen and we are not
inclined on making a further profit due to a client’s’ misfortune. Be honest with us and we will offer replacement
stock at a much lower price to you.
IF THE PRODUCT DOESN’T CURE
Please do not expect us to replace product free of charge because the epoxy is not curing. The epoxy curing
process is a well-tested science, is chemically balanced and well-proven over the span of many years and
thousands of installations. Stirring of the Part-A components before mixing with Part-B, accurate measuring of the
Topcoat A & B and Primer A & B components will cause the product to set into a hard and glossy layer within 68 hours (25ºC). If curing did not take place within 20 hours, the mixing process or product composition was
compromised, it is not a product related problem. Water contamination or thinning the product with paint thinners
will compromise the product resin and curing agent composition.
Use paint thinners or solvents like Acetone, Xylene or even Methylated Spirits to remove the uncured,
compromised layer using scrapers. Sand the surface an re-apply new product according to instructions.
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IMPORTANT NOTES and AFTER-CARE
Your long-term satisfaction with our product is very important to us. The product you bought is of the highest
quality. If treated correctly, this product will provide you with a clean and easy- to-maintain pool for many years.
To protect your investment it is important to take note of the following important aspects.
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Always have new pool water tested, especially for Calcium Hardness (or Total Hardness) at a
swimming pool water test facility. Excessive chalking might occur due to low Calcium Hardness Keep between 350-500 ppm. Calcium flakes (Calcium Chloride) is available from swimming pool
outlets or from Pool Solutions. U can use water test strips (InstaTest 6 Plus or Aquachek ) to test for this
condition on a regular basis. This testing is important regarding our guarantee offering, see last 2 pages.
The first 4-6 hours after application is critical due to the vulnerability of the product during this initial curing
stage. Because the product is still damp and soft, it could easily be scratched, stained by water and
chemicals, or damaged in some other way. During warm summer days, the product will become waterresistant within 4-6 hours.
Don’t do garden work around the pool that could cause dust, grass, leaves etc. to contaminate the epoxy coat
while still wet, especially during the first 4 hours. Avoid the use of sprinklers near the pool during the first 3
days. Keep pets, garden workers and children away from the pool during this time. Prevent any form of
chemicals to enter into the pool.
A shadow net or other type of clean, breathable (not solid) cover may be used to cover the pool during the first
few hours after application, but is not compulsory and normally not necessary due to the relatively quick set
time of the product. If a cover is used, make sure that it is securely tightened around the pool. Take care that
it doesn’t come in touch with the epoxy coat.
Water may only be added to the pool after a minimum of 3 days of hardening time during warm summer
conditions. During cold weather conditions and during the winter months, the hardening time should be
extended to 7 days before adding water.
Rainwater that may have formed in the pool can be soaked up from the side without stepping into the pool
during the first 6 hours. Use a long stick with cloth attached to do the soaking. Don’t step into the pool during
the hardening time. Dust and leaves should be left till after the hardening time, as it would normally not
damage the surface after the initial 4 hours drying time. After 24 hours of hardening time, the pool may be
entered on bare feet when necessary.
Fill the pool in one continuous inflow till full. Let the water fall away from the side directly into the deepest end.
Don’t let the water flow down the wall as the continued stream of water and friction might still cause a slight
discolouring at his stage. The water should not be left to stand partly full to avoid ring discolouring.
Test the water for the correct alkalinity. Correct alkalinity levels to a value of 100-120 first, low
alkalinity will incorrectly influence the pH and chlorine readings. Low alkalinity may cause
yellowish/brown discolouring of pool surfaces. Add HTH Alkalinity-up in limited quantities. After
alkalinity is corrected, then add acid to adjust the pH level to 7.2.
When the Ph level is at the recommended level, add chlorine as usual to maintain the correct chlorine level.
HTH Month-packs or drifters may also be used, but string them 1m from the wall to the automatic pool
cleaner pipe to prevent yellow streaks against the walls. Drifters tend to “park” for long periods of time against
the wall and then release shock treating chlorine that can temporarily stain the wall.
Although this epoxy has excellent resistance against chemicals and should not be permanently stained even
by undiluted acid and chlorine, it is still advisable to evenly spread the chemicals by adding through the weir
basket while the pump is running for best results. Adhere to manufacturers recommendations.
You may start using the pool cleaner again right away after completely filling the swimming pool.
Should it happen that rusting objects or other forms of discolouring has occurred at a certain spot, use a
kitchen sponge soaked with Handy Andy or iKleen7 to scrub the spot, even under water.
Please note. If you have a salt chlorinator, it is strongly advisable to treat the water with normal HTH chlorine
for the first month before adding salt and switching over to the salt chlorinator to allow for the full hardness
development of the epoxy coat. Please note that you should minimize the salt dosage to prolong the
epoxy layer’s lifespan. Less algae growth due to the epoxy layer requires less chlorine to control
algae and maintain a clear water appearance.
Waterwell, continuous use of Blue52 and a product used to raise alkalinity - by Aqua Cure, have been
reported to stain or create yellow staining. Please use normal 4in1 HTH drifter packs and/or HTH dry
chlorine, normal pool acid and HTH Alkalinity-up, which have all been tested with the product. For algae
control, a product called Two10Blue has been successfully tested. Please use all these products according
to product instructions.
Bio Guard or PoolBrite drifter packs may be used but string them to the pool cleaner pipe 1m from the wall.
Bio guard dry chlorine should only be added through the weir while pump is running as per manufacturer’s
instructions. We recommend rather using HTH floaters and dry chlorine which can be added directly into the
swimming pool.
Page 7
Typical Materials and Tools list needed for two workers
ITEM
QTY
Roller Handles
2
Rollers Mohair 100mm
8
Paint Brushes 38mm
8
Sanding Paper P60 (roll)
2
Plastic Bags Black (Roll)
1
Mutton Cloth (Roll)
1
Mentholated Spirits 5L
1
Ikleen7 Tile Cleaner, non-toxic, household cleaner (Pool Solutions)
1L
1
Masking Tape (roll) optional
1
Welding Gloves for Grinder Protection optional
2
Rubber Gloves Chem. Resist. Only if Chemicals like Mosaic
Wonder or other acids are going to be used.
2
Plastic Drop Sheet
1
Electrical Extension (20m)
1
Safety glasses for grinding work
Face Mask with two P2 or P1 Dust-filter capsules for grinding work
and two A1 Chemical capsules for mixing and paint work in interior
areas. Material type masks can be used for outdoor applications.
Underwater Pool Patching 5Kg to repair marblite and cracks
(from Pool Solutions or Cemcrete) Optional
Buckets for mixing 5 Litre
2
Measuring mug (or 500g margarine buckets or similar)
4
Putty knife
1
Broom, brush and scoop set
1
Electric drill (e.g. Ryobi 800w) for mixing
1
Paint Mixing tip for electric drill
1
Angle Grinder 180mm discs (e.g. Ryobi)
2
P16 grinding discs (Lucas Abrasives) (Pool Solutions) 1 per 10sqm
1 per 10sqm
M14 Flexipad rubber backing disc for grinders (Pool Solutions)
2
Spiked Paint Shoes 25mm spikes, optional – (Pool Solutions)
2 Pairs
Paint bucket (2L) with handles for painting with100mm rollers
2
Roller extension poles or telescopic extenders - optional
2
Contact numbers: Celéne – 083 227 6663
Gerhard- 072 603 8895
Philip – 083 4559632
Website: www.poolsolutions.co.za
Page 8
2
1
2-4
QUALITY and GAURANTEE CHECKLIST
Should you wish to register for our 3-year, 100% product replacement guarantee, this Quality Checklist should be
completed while doing the application process and emailed, faxed or posted to us within 30 days from date of
purchase. A water test report (specifically including a Total Hardness or Calcium Hardness test) should be
forwarded for our records within 30 days after application. Take note of page 7 – After-care Instructions.
Name of client: _______________________________________________
Installation Address: _____________________________________________________________
Indicate Method of application:
Longer (4-5 days) [
] or Quick Method (1-2 days) [
]
Check items with ( , Yes or No), monitor date and time, take photos where marked as required for reference
purposes. For the Quicker Method, draw a line through points 12 and 14, but take photos between layers.
STEP
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
(Ignore
for
Quick
Method)
Page 9
TASK/DESCRIPTION
Pool emptied and left to dry
Check for cracks, loose marblite/cement,
problems fixed, Mosaic tiles cleaned.
Was chemicals used to clean tiles? (Yes, No)
Tiles scrubbed with soap and water after
chemical cleaning? NB (Yes, No)
Grind the entire pool with P16-P24 Grinding
discs.
After grinding, wash the pool to ensure it is
dust-free, check for loose dust. Let pool dry
completely
Stir Primer A separately and thoroughly, do
not use a stick, us a paint mixing tip and an
electric drill.
Measure correct quantities of Primer A and
Primer B and mix in practical small quantities
in correct 3:1 (A:B)-ratio in separate bucket.
(Mix for 2 minutes)
Apply thoroughly with rollers, saturate surface.
Check regularly for dry spots and touch up.
Use brushes in tight spots or along tile lines.
Check regularly on different areas by touching.
As soon as the layer starts to feel sticky in
some areas, start to apply the top-coat. Apply
first top-coat on sticky, damp primer on the
same day. Normally within 30-60 minutes.
Apply 1st Top-coat
Stir Top-coat A regularly and separately for
2min using a proper mixing tip and elect drill.
Measure correct quantities and mix practical
small quantities in correct 3:1 (A:B)-ratio in
separate bucket. (mix for 3 min)
Apply with rollers, check regularly for missed
spots and touch up. Coat well along top edges
and steps. Re-roll to prevent teardrops
forming where necessary
First Top-coat is left to completely dry
overnight – sand thoroughly by hand using
P60 sand paper next day. Don’t miss any
spots when sanding. Clean pool with dry or
slightly damp cloth.
CHECKED
()(yes)(no)
DATE
TIME
PHOTO
1
2
3
4
13
14
(Ignore
for
Quick
Method)
15
16
17
17
18
19
20
Apply 2nd Top-Coat (3rd epoxy layer)
(For Quick method repeat point 9)
Stir Top-coat A separately and thoroughly,
Stir Top-coat B thoroughly, measure correct
quantities and mix practical quantities in
correct 3:1 (A:B)-ratio in separate bucket. (mix
for 3 min)
Second Top-coat is left to completely dry
overnight – sand thoroughly by hand using
P60 sand paper next day. Don’t miss any
spots when sanding. Clean pool with dry cloth.
Apply 3rd Top-coat
(For Quick method repeat point 9)
Stir Top-coat A separately and thoroughly,
Measure correct quantities and mix practical
quantities in correct 3:1 (A:B)-ratio. (mix for 3
min)
Apply with rollers, check regularly for missed
spots and touch up. Use brushes in corners
and along tiles etc. Keep an eye on the last
layer to see if teardrops are forming, re-roll
while wet to remove any teardrops.
After one day drying of final coat, enter bare
feet and check for sharp points and missed
spots and other deformities, cut sharp points
or remove with fine grade water sand paper,
touch up if necessary.
Leave for 3 days in summer to dry, 7 days in
cold winter before adding water NB
Fill pool in one continuous flow away from
walls in deep end.
Final photo of filled pool
Why not send us a nice photo of your clean,
blue pool for publication on our website?
5
6
7
8
9
Notes: (Please give us your feedback and comments)
_________________________________________________________________________________________________
For after-sale service in the unlikely event of product failure covered under our guarantee:
1. Complete this checklist during application and forward to us within 30 days of purchase.
2. Have the swimming pool water tested (including a test for Total Hardness TH or Calcium Harness
CA) within 30 days after filling and rectifying chemical levels, send to us for our records.
Where a water test facility (most pool shops) are not available, use a water test strip (Insta Test 6 Plus or
Aquachek strips avalaible from Pool Solutions, Makro, Builders Express etc.) to test the water and forward
a picture of the test results. Calcium Hardness must be adjusted to read between 350ppm and 500ppm
regardless of the recommendations by pool shop testing facilities. This will prolong the lifespan of the
coating and reduce chalking of the paint. For more information: www.poolsolutions.co.za/guarantee.html
Checklist and photos may be posted to: P.O.Box 74170, Lynnwood Ridge, Pretoria, 0040
Or e-mail the form and Photos to: reply@poolsolutions.co.za
Fax: 0866572412
Why not take notes and photos of the process, if you send your project report to us, we will publish
your report on our website to encourage and help other DIY enthusiasts.
Page 10