Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics with Dyes Extracted from Pomegranate
Peel and Marigold Flower as Substitute for Synthetic Dyes
Assad Farooq1,*, Ayesha Mushtaq2, Naheed Abbas2, and Muhammad Azeem Ashraf1
1
Department of Fibre and Textile Technology, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan
2
Institute of Rural Home Economics, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan
*For correspondence: assadfarooq@googlemail.com
Abstract
Natural dyeing is a technique to dye the textile fabrics with the colours extracted from
natural sources like plants, animals and minerals etc. Natural dyeing and printing have
been used for centuries but with the disadvantage of being limited in colours and
inferior in colour fastness & durability properties. However, they are eco-friendly,
biodegradable and non-carcinogenic in comparison to synthetic dyes. In this research
work, the dyes were extracted from two plant sources, i.e., marigold flower and
pomegranate peel and cotton knitted fabrics were dyed using these natural dyes. The
same colour shades were produced by using synthetic reactive dyes and their colour
fastness properties were compared with those of natural dyed fabrics. The results
elaborate the good potential of natural dyes as substitute for synthetic dyes in terms of
colour fastness and mechanical properties.
Keywords: Natural dyes; Marigold; Pomegranate; Reactive dyes; Colorfastness
1
Introduction
Synthetic dyes are manufactured from aromatic compounds acquired from coal tar or
petroleum. The synthetic dyeing industry is growing at very fast rate decreasing the use
of natural dyes. The demand for the synthetic dyes is high because it satisfies dyers
demand as it has simple and reproducible application processes and they can also be
manufactured at reasonable price (Sengupta and Singh, 2003). The colour fastness of
synthetic dyes is high because dye is very strongly bound to the fabric and it does not
detach easily. Synthetic dyes have a variety of colours according to the demand of
consumers but these dyes are environmentally unfriendly because their production and
application requires strong acids, alkalies, solvents, toxic amines, high temperatures and
heavy metal catalysts (Hunger, 2003). These dyes are toxic and hazardous in nature.
Disposal of hazardous wastes of synthetic dyes is a major environmental and economic
challenge.
Natural dyes are non-toxic and do not create environmental problems due to their biodegradable nature (Kulkarni et al. 2011). Demand of natural dyes is increasing
continuously (Samanta and Agarwal, 2009) as their production and application does not
require strong acids and alkalies (Bhuyan et al., 2004). In addition of their
environmental friendly nature many natural dyes have anti allergic and deodorizing
properties (Lee et al, 2010). The use of natural dyes has been limited to small scale
dyers and craftsman (Bechtold and Mussak, 2009). However many dyers and exporters
have started to finding possibilities of using natural dyes on regular use as substitute of
synthetic dyes to overcome the problems of pollution caused by synthetic dyes (Glover
and Pierce, 1993).
2
Natural dyes are obtained naturally from vegetable or animal materials without applying
any chemical procedure. Such examples of natural dyes obtained from plant source are
marigold and pomegranate. Among many cultivated varieties of marigold Tagetes
erecta and Tagetes patula are most important for colouration purpose. Marigold plants
are chubby and can grow upto 60 cm tall (Bosma et al, 2003; Heo et al, 2004). Lutein
(C40H56O2) is a natural dye which belongs to the carotenoid family (Pant, 1998) can be
obtained from marigold flowers. Lutein and its isomer xanthophylls present in high
concentration in marigold flowers than other plants (Verghese, 1998). The xanthophylls
are widely used in food colours due to their natural yellow to red colour.
Pomegranate (Punicagrantum) belongs to the family Punicacea is native of Persia
(Goodarzian and Ekrami, 2010) but grows in most warm countries. The dried and
powdered pomegranate rind has been used from ancient times as a natural colouring
agent. Granatonine is the main colouring agent in pomegranate peel present in alkaloid
form N-methyl granatonine.
Keeping in view current scenario of environmental consciousness the present study was
planned to compare the characteristics of fabrics dyed with two natural dyes marigold
(Tagetes Erecta) & pomegranate (Punicagrantum) and synthetic reactive dyes.
Materials and Methods
Extraction of Natural Dyes
The extraction of natural dye from the marigold flower and pomegranate peel was
conducted with distilled water using soxhlet apparatus with material to liquor ratio1:20.
The extractions were carried out at temperature 1000C for 90 minutes.
3
Dyeing with Natural Dyes
The samples of knitted cotton fabric, weighing 10g each, were dyed separately with the
extracts of natural dyes at liquor ratio of 30:1. Knitted cotton fabrics were dyed by
exhaust method in lab scale HT dyeing machine at 60°C, 80°C and 100°C to study the
effect of temperature. In order to observe the effect of dyeing time dyeing was carried
out for 30, 60 and 90 min.
Dyeing with Synthetic Dyes
The dyeing of cotton fabrics with synthetic dyes was done by using appropriate amount
of reactive dyes required to produce same shades as that of natural dyes. Dyeing was
done for 30, 60 and 90 min at 60°C, 80°C and 100°C to study the effect of time and
temperature using liquor ratio of 15:1. Sodium carbonate 20 g/l and sodium sulphate 50
g/l were added as auxiliaries. After dyeing all dyed samples were thoroughly soaped
using 2 g/l nonionic detergent (Triton X-100). The shade of reactive dyes was matched
with marigold and pomegranate dye using Datacolour SF 600 spectrophotometer.
Fabric Evaluation
The tensile strength of fabrics was determined according to ASTM standard test method
D-5034.Washing fastness of the samples was tested according to ISO 105-CO3 method.
The samples were washed in standard soap solution at 60°C for 30 minutes. Dry and
wet rubbing fastness of the dyed samples was tested according to ISO 105-X12 method.
4
Results and Discussions
Tensile Strength of Fabrics
The results of tensile strength of fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye and synthetic
reactive dyes at different temperatures and time intervals are compared in Fig 1. The Fig
1 shows an overall decreasing trend with the increase in dyeing temperature and time
intervals both for synthetic and natural dyes. This may be due to fibre and dyes
degradation at high temperatures and for longer time intervals. The other interesting fact
is that the fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye have less tensile strength as compared
with that of synthetic dyes. This can be attributed to the degradation of pomegranate dye
at high temperatures and at longer time intervals.
The comparison of tensile strength of fabrics dyed with marigold dye and with synthetic
reactive dyes of same shade is presented in Fig 2. The graph shows that as an overall
trend, the fabrics dyed with marigold dye show higher tensile strength as compared to
that of the fabric dyed with synthetic dyes. This fact is eminent at all-time durations and
temperatures. This implies that marigold dyes has caused less weakening of the fibre
structures as compared to synthetic reactive dyes. Similarly, the increase in dyeing time
and temperature has negatively affected the tensile strength of the fabrics, which is true
for both natural and synthetic dyes.
From the results, it can be inferred that dyeing with natural marigold dyes has less affect
on tensile strength of the fabrics as compared with its synthetic substitute, whereas this
trend is reverse for natural pomegranate dyes.
5
Rubbing Fastness
The results pertaining to dry and wet rubbing fastness for the fabrics dyed with natural
pomegranate dye as well as synthetic dye are presented in Table 1. In case of fabrics
dyed with pomegranate dye, dry rubbing fastness was observed as ‘very good (4)’ at
60oC and 80oC, however this rating falls to ‘good to very good (3-4)’. While in case of
wet rubbing the most of temperature and time intervals produce ‘good (3)’ ratings. In
case of fabrics dyed with synthetic reactive dyes dry rubbing fastness was mostly very
good to excellent(4-5) at 60oC and 80oC and very good (4) at 100oC . However, in case
of wet rubbing mostly very good (4) rating was observed for all time and temperatures.
For both dyes natural and synthetic, rubbing fastness rating was decreased by increasing
the duration of dyeing and temperature. This may be due to decomposition of dyes at
higher temperatures for prolonged dyeing period (Nagia and El-Mohamedy, 2007)
which results in easy removal of dye in effect of rubbing treatment. Mostly fabrics dyed
with natural dye have lower rating than synthetic reactive dyes due to their weak
bonding with fibres, but some samples have shown equal rubbing fastness to synthetic
dyes.
The results pertaining to dry and wet rubbing fastness for the fabrics dyed with natural
marigold dye as well as synthetic dye are presented in Table 2. Both for dry and wet
rubbing the fabrics dyed with marigold dye have shown inferior performance in
comparison with synthetic dyes.
The natural dye detaches from fabric in result of wear due to breakage of weak dyefibre bond (Jothi, 2008). The ratings for synthetic dyes range from ‘very good to
excellent (4-5)’ to ‘very good (4)’, whereas that of marigold dyes ranges from ‘good
6
(3)’ to ‘very good (4)’. The overall decrease in rating for wet rubbing corresponds to the
weak bonding the natural dyes with fibres.
Washing Fastness
The results pertaining washing fastness for the fabrics dyed with natural pomegranate
dye as well as synthetic dye of same shade are presented in Table 3.
In case of fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye washing fastness was mostly ‘very good
(4)’ for 60min and ‘good to very good (4)’ for 80 &100 min dyeing durations while in
case of dyeing with synthetic reactive dyes, washing fastness was mostly ‘very good
(4)’ for all dyeing durations. It can be observed from Table 3 that fabrics dyed with
pomegranate dye for 60 min duration have comparable results with fabrics dyed with
synthetic reactive dyes.
The results of washing fastness of fabrics dyed with marigold dye and synthetic reactive
dye of same shade presented in Table 4 shows that fabrics dyed with synthetic reactive
dyes have shown higher grey scale rating of rubbing fastness. The very good washing
fastness of synthetic reactive dyed samples was due to strong covalent bond formation
between dye and fabric. But fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye for 60 min duration
also have comparable washing fastness to synthetic reactive dye.
It can be observed from Table 3 and Table 4 that fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye
have shown higher washing fastness rating than fabrics dyed with marigold dye. It may
be due stronger bonding of pomegranate dye with the cotton fibres than marigold dye.
7
Conclusions
The following conclusions were drawn from the present research work.

Fabrics dyed with natural marigold dye have shown higher tensile strength than
synthetic reactive dyes while pomegranate dye reduced fabric strength in
comparison with synthetic dyes.

Fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye have shown better performance regarding
colour fastness to rubbing and washing than marigold dyed Fabrics.

Marigold petals and pomegranate peel can be used as a substitute of synthetic
reactive dyes for dyeing of cotton fabric. These dyes have comparable colour
fastness properties with synthetic dyes, but have major advantage of being ecofriendly and can help to minimize the problems of effluents from synthetic dyes.
8
References
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9
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10
Tensile Strength (Kg)
20
Pomegranate
Synthetic
15
10
5
0
60 °C 80 °C 100 °C
60 °C 80 °C 100 °C
60 min
80 min
60 °C 80 °C 100 °C
100 min
Fig. 1: Comparison of tensile strength of fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye and with
synthetic reactive dyes
Tensile Strength (Kg)
20
Marigold
Synthetic
15
10
5
0
60 °C 80 °C 100 °C
60 °C 80 °C 100 °C
60 min
80 min
60 °C 80 °C 100 °C
100 min
Fig. 2: Comparison of tensile strength of fabrics dyed with marigold dye and with synthetic
reactive dyes
11
Table 1: Rubbing fastness of fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye and with synthetic
reactive dyes
Rubbing fastness
Time (min)
60
80
100
Temperature (˚C)
Pomegranate
Synthetic
Dry
Wet
Dry
Wet
60
4
3
4-5
4
80
4
3-4
4-5
4
100
4
3-4
4
4
60
4
3
4-5
4
80
4
3-4
4
4
100
4
3
4
3-4
60
3-4
3
4-5
4
80
3-4
3
4
3-4
100
3-4
3
4
3-4
Excellent =5, Very Good = 4, Good = 3, Ordinary = 2, Poor = 1
12
Table 2: Rubbing fastness of fabrics dyed with marigold dye and with synthetic
reactive dyes
Rubbing fastness
Time (min)
60
80
100
Temperature (˚C)
Marigold
Synthetic
Dry
Wet
Dry
Wet
60
3-4
3
4-5
4
80
4
3
4
4
100
4
3-4
4
3-4
60
3-4
3
4-5
4
80
3-4
3
4
4
100
3-4
3-4
4
3-4
60
3
3
4
3-4
80
3
3
4
3-4
100
3
3
4
3-4
Excellent =5, Very Good = 4, Good = 3, Ordinary = 2, Poor = 1
13
Table 3: Washing fastness of fabrics dyed with pomegranate dye and with synthetic
reactive dyes
Washing fastness
Time (min)
60
80
100
Temperature (˚C)
Pomegranate
Synthetic
60
4
4-5
80
4
4
100
4
4
60
3-4
4-5
80
4
4
100
3-4
4
60
3-4
4
80
3-4
4
100
3-4
4
Excellent =5, Very Good = 4, Good = 3, Ordinary = 2, Poor = 1
14
Table 4: Washing fastness of fabrics dyed with marigold dye and with synthetic
reactive dyes
Washing fastness
Time (min)
60
80
100
Temperature (˚C)
Marigold
Synthetic
60
3
4
80
3-4
4-5
100
4
4
60
3-4
4-5
80
3-4
4-5
100
3
4
60
3-4
4
80
3
4
100
3
3-4
Excellent =5, Very Good = 4, Good = 3, Ordinary = 2, Poor = 1
15