科目名 Course Title
Ocean Wave Mechanics（沿岸波動力学 E） [Ocean Wave Mechanics]
講義題目 Subtitle
責任教員 Instructor
渡部 靖憲 [Yasunori WATANABE] (大学院工学研究院)
担当教員 Other Instructors
開講年度 Year
2014
時間割番号 Course Number
092288
開講学期 Semester
２学期
単位数 Number of Credits
2
授業形態 Type of Class
講義
対象年次 Year of Eligible Students
～
言語コード・言語 Language Code, Language
1 英語で行う授業
Type
補足事項 Other Information
キーワード Key Words
Computational Wave Mechanics
Water Wave
Finite Difference Method
授業の目標 Course Objectives
Mathematical theories of fluid dynamics and water waves, discretized system of governing equations to describe ocean flow, and applied
numerical techniques for reproducing coastal waves are provided in this course for students to acquire comprehensive knowledge of
computational wave dynamics.
到達目標 Course Goals
Learn theoretical backgrounds of fluid dynamics and computational methodology to solve a differential equation system describing fluid flow
under water waves as well as engineering applications of the computational wave dynamics.
授業計画 Course Schedule
Week1 Introduction
Week2-3 Fundamental theories of fluid dynamics and water waves
Conservations of mass and momentum of fluid flows, small amplitude wave theory and shallow water wave equations are explained.
Week4-5 Turbulence models
Definition of turbulence, statistical features of turbulence and several turbulence models (RANS and LES) are explained.
Week6-7 Fundamental theories of Finite difference methods
Discretization of differential equations, common techniques of finite difference method, boundary conditions imposed, and computational
procedure to solve matrices are explained.
Week8-10 Computation of the equation system for fluid flows
Computational techniques to solve Navier-Stokes equation and turbulence models are explained.
Week11-13 Computation of free-surfaces
Computational techniques (VOF, density function, Level-set methods) to describe free-surfaces and to track surface locations are explained.
Week14-15 Computational application to coastal and ocean engineering
Applied computational techniques to handle wave-structure interactions, multi-phase flows and surf-zone flows are explained.
準備学習（予習・復習）等の内容と分量 Homework
Students should review the course contents and examine the techniques leaned in the course.
Submition of three assignments is required during the course.
成績評価の基準と方法 Grading System
The weight is 10% for class participation, 50% for assignments, and 40% for exercise.
テキスト・教科書 Textbooks
Computational Wave Dynamics／Hitoshi Gotoh, Akio Okayasu, Yasunori Watanabe：World Scientific，2013
講義指定図書 Reading List
参照ホームページ Websites
研究室のホームページ Website of Laboratory
備考 Additional Information PARE Core Cluster Subject