Desert Tortoise Basic Care sheet
HABITAT
Yard with secure fencing (preferably block wall)
Tortoises are escape artists and can dig under most chain link or wire fences. They may go under or
through wooden fences. Believe it or not, they can also climb chain link.
Shady, cool places to rest and sleep
Like other animals, tortoises cannot stay in direct sunlight in hot weather for too long without getting
heat stroke. During the heat of the day, tortoises like to hide in shelters or under bushes in the shade.
Many tortoises will dig burrows.
Access to shallow water source
Tortoises get the majority of the water they need from the plants they eat, but you should provide a
shallow water dish for supplemental water. Many tortoises enjoy climbing into the bowl and soaking.
Make sure the bowl is in a shady, accessible area and that the tortoise can enter and exit it easily.
Tortoises also like to drink from puddles on the ground made by running the hose or sprinkler as this
simulates rainfall.
Diet
A native plant diet occasionally supplemented with health greens, grass and grass hay is nutritionally
complete. Using commercial tortoise pellets, high protein foods, lettuces (even romaine), and fruit can
cause growth issues in young tortoises, metabolic disease and other medical problems. It is best to feed
a native plant based diet with only occasional supplementation of foods listed below.
PROTECTION AGAINST POTENTIAL HAZARDS
No contact with dogs
Dogs, even gentle, well trained ones, often view tortoises and turtles as chew toys rather than living
creatures and can kill or badly injure them by chewing. Dog caused injuries are one of the most common
reasons we see tortoises especially during spring and the monsoon season.
No exposure to pesticides, household cleaners or other poisons.
Tortoises and most other reptiles are very sensitive to pesticides and other poisons and should not come
into contact with these substances.
No access to swimming pool or other deep water.
Tortoises cannot swim and will quickly drown in deep water.
Protection against flipping.
If you find your tortoise turned over on his back, turn him back over immediately, and take him to a cool
area. Tortoises who turn over usually can right themselves, but if they are unable to do so, you must do
it for them-quickly. If a tortoise remains on his back, particularly if he is in full sun, serious health
problems, or death can result very rapidly.
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If your tortoise tends to flip when trying to climb over an obstacle (e.g., a pile of rocks or dirt) remove
the obstacle or make is inaccessible to the tortoise.
HIBERNATION
Secure winter hibernation shelter
Tortoises hibernate from approximately mid-October through approximately mid-May. You may build an
outdoor hibernation burrow following the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum’s guidelines as long as the
burrow is protected from freezing, flooding, and chronic dampness. Contact the Museum or their
website (http://www.desertmuseum.org/programs/tap.php) for instructions.
You may also hibernate the tortoise in a box in a garage or similar area that is not heated but is
protected from freezing, flooding, and dampness. Put shredded newspaper in the box.
Soaking
Tortoises do not usually drink water while hibernating, but if hibernated indoors they should be soaked
in shallow, lukewarm water for 20-30 minutes once a month during the hibernation period to maintain
hydration. Do not offer food during hibernation.
MEDICAL CARE
Tortoises do not require vaccinations, nor do they need to be spayed or neutered. It is advisable to have
your tortoise checked by a veterinarian once a year before hibernation. If a tortoise is ill and goes into
hibernation, the disease will progress as the tortoise’s metabolic rate falls and could cause serious
problems or death. Of course, if your tortoise is ill at any time you should seek medical care.
In the event of medical problems and for pre-hibernation check-ups contact Orange Grove Animal
Hospital at (520)877-2626.
DIET
A diet composed of an assortment of the plants listed provides a nutritionally complete diet. Adding
vitamin, calcium, or other mineral supplements is not necessary and may be harmful. All tortoises
should be kept outside, as temperatures permit, to ensure adequate exposure to ultraviolet light, which
is necessary to maintain calcium metabolism.
Produce is generally less nutritious than the other foods listed here and should only be fed when other
foods are not available or as an occasional supplement.
It can be tempting to give tortoises “treats” such as bananas or other fruit, but too much of these foods
are not good for them. Be sure the tortoise has a good basic diet and give only prickly pear fruit or
strawberries as an occasional treat.
Favored Native Plants: All of plant consumed unless otherwise noted
Hoary abutilon
Arizona cottontop grass
Bamboo Muhly grass
Blue grama grass
Buckwheats
Cassia
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Curly mesquite grass
Deer grass
Desert four o'clock
Desert Honeysuckle
Desert senna
Desert Willow (flowers)
Evening Primrose *
Fern acacia (flowers)
Globe mallows *
Morning Glory
Plantain *
Prickly pear (fruit & new pads)
Hibiscus (flowers & leaves)
Spurges *
Trailing four o'clock
Barley
Bean sprouts (mung)
Beet greens
Bok choy
Carrot greens
Cilantro
Collard greens
Endive
Kale
Mustard greens
Parsley
String beans
Snow peas
Spinach
Turnip greens
Vine Mesquite grass
Acceptable produce:
Other Healthy foods:
Mix of Alfalfa & grass (Bermuda or Timothy)
Bluegrass lawn
Cantaloupe leaves
Clover *
Dandelion greens
Grape leaves & shoots
Mulberry leaves *
Pumpkin leaves *
Rose petals *
Watercress
Zucchini/Squash leaves
*= good for young tortoises/hatchlings
Avoid the following:
Desert Tortoises should never be given protein rich foods (such as dog or cat food) or animal
proteins (meats or dairy products).
All types of lettuce (including Romaine)
Avocado
ALL fruit
Cabbage
Celery
Cucumber
Mushrooms
Canned/frozen vegetables
Starchy vegetables (like corn)
Chinaberry berries
Plants in the Nicotiana genus
Sexing Tortoises
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The easiest way to determine the sex of an adult tortoise is by looking at it plastron (the bottom of the
shell). A females’ plastron is completely flat, while a male’s plastron has a noticeable concave area
(indent) across the width of the shell about 1/3 of the way up from his tail.
You can also look at the gular horn, which is the piece of the shell that extends from the plastron under
the tortoise’s head. The gular horn is usually longer in males and may be upturned. However, unless you
have a male and female tortoise and can compare gular horns, this method may not be reliable.
Male tortoises have slight longer tails than females do and more pronounced, well-developed chin
glands.
If you have a juvenile tortoise, keep in mind that you may not be able to accurately determine its sex
until it is 10-15 years old depending on its growth rate.
ESCAPES
Desert tortoises are escape artists! Even if you provide them with the perfect habitat and diet, they will
likely escape if they have the opportunity. Males are more likely to escape than females and though
escapes can occur during any time of the year that tortoises are active, spring and fall are the peak
periods. If your tortoise attempts to escape, it does not mean he is unhappy: he is just following his
instincts.
Preventing Escapes
Preventing escapes is much easier than dealing with them after the fact. Ensure that your habitat has
the following:
Secure Fencing
Block wall is the best. Other types of fencing should be set well into the ground, preferably in a
layer of cement, so the tortoise cannot dig under it. As mentioned before, tortoises can climb
chain link.
Secure Gates
Make sure gates latch securely and there is not a large gap between the bottom of the gate and
the ground. Tortoises may attempt to dig under gates.
One of the most common tortoise escape scenarios involves a gate that is accidentally left open. To
prevent your tortoise from escaping this way construct a gate barricade. This can be as simple as a
sturdy board held in place across the gate opening with cinder blocks. If you are the handy type, you can
probably come up with something more pleasing to the eye. Whatever materials you use, be sure that:
-The tortoise cannot dig under it, push it over, or climb over it (don’t use chain link or chicken wire)
-The barricade is tall enough that the tortoise can’t climb over it, but short enough for you to step over it
without too much difficulty.
-The barricade is on the opposite side that the gate swings open.
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Identifying Your Tortoise
It’s a good idea to identify your tortoise even if you are certain your yard is escape proof. The easiest
way to identify a tortoise is to use a Sharpie® permanent marker to write your phone number on the
side of the tortoise’s shell. Check the phone number a couple of times per year and touch it up if it is
faded. Do not mark the tortoise’s shell with paint, fingernail polish, or similar substances.
If your tortoise does escape, take the following steps as soon as possible.
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Conduct a search of the area as soon as your notice him missing. Repeat the search on a daily
basis.
Alert your neighbors. One of them may have picked him up. If not, ask them to be on the
lookout.
Post “lost tortoise” flyers in the neighborhood. If possible, include a picture of the tortoise.
Give the date the tortoise went missing, the location and any identifying marks, such as chips in
the shell. Remember to include your contact information. If feasible, offer a reward for his
return.
Place an ad in the newspaper.
Read the “Found animals” adds in the newspaper on a daily basis.
Contact the Humane Society.
Contact veterinarians in your area as well as Orange Grove Animal Hospital as we receive many
“found” tortoises during the warmer months.
Contact the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.
Q and A
Q: How old is my tortoise and how long with he live?
A: Once a tortoise reaches adult size, it is not possible to accurately determine its age. Desert tortoises
can live to be 100 years old or more.
Q: Is my tortoise going to be lonely by himself?
A: No. Tortoises are solitary creatures in the wild and generally only come together during the mating
season. Some tortoises don’t seem to mind being around other tortoises, but many other are territorial
and can be extremely aggressive to additional tortoises.
Male tortoises should not be kept with other males, as it is not uncommon for to males to fight to the
death. A male tortoise kept with a female may relentlessly pursue her, attempting to mate, thus causing
her a good deal of stress. If you have both a male and a female, be sure they are housed in separate
enclosures with no access to each other.
Q: I understand that the wild Desert Tortoise population is diminishing. I want to breed my tortoise
and release the babies into the wild to help replenish the population. Is that a good idea?
A: It is not a good idea and is not allowed under state law. The wild Desert Tortoise population is
diminishing primarily due to habitat loss, rather than hunting, inability to reproduce or similar
problems. Releasing more tortoises into a decreasing amount of suitable habitat does more
harm than good. Captive-bred tortoises may carry illnesses to which the wild population has no
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resistance. A captive-bred tortoise’s chance of survival in the wild is not very good. It is also illegal to
release captive-bred tortoises into the wild. (see Tortoises and the Law on page 6)
Q: If my tortoise has babies, can I give the babies away?
A: Yes. Just be sure to find them homes with people who will take good care of them or contact the
Arizona Sonora Desert Museum.
Q: How will I know if my tortoise is ill?
A: Watch for any of the following signs:
Inactivity during warm months.
Lack of appetite during warm months.
Excessive wheezing when breathing. Many tortoises make some wheezing and whistling
noises when moving about, but an increase in these noises can be a symptom of illness.
Open mouth breathing.
Fluid coming from the nose.
Swollen eyes.
Difficulty walking.
Loss of coordination.
Dragging shell on the ground.
Chance in appearance, areas of swelling or weight loss.
Upper respiratory illnesses are especially common in tortoises. If you are not sure what’s going on it’s
worth a call to the veterinarian. Note: Sick tortoises should not be hibernated!
Q: I have cats. Are they going to bother my tortoise?
A: Cats and adult tortoises are generally a good combination. A cat may be curious about a tortoise at
first, but will soon become bored and ignore it. Cats should not be allowed access to baby tortoises, as
they may try to play with them and injure them in the process, but they are usually no threat to adults.
Tortoises and the Law
The Desert Tortoise is a protected species. Here are some laws you should be aware of:
It is illegal to sell Desert tortoises.
It is illegal to take Desert tortoises out of the state.
It is illegal to remove Desert tortoises from the wild
Desert tortoises who have been in captivity for 48 hours or more may not be released into the
wild.
Wild tortoises (if they are releasable) must be released into the same area where they were
originally found.
A family is allowed to have up to one Desert tortoise per household, and no more than that.
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For more information about laws concerning the Desert tortoise, call the Arizona Game and Fish
Department at www.azgfd.gov/w_c/desert_tortoise.shtml or you can call the Tucson Office at (520)
628-5376.
© ORANGE GROVE ANIMAL HOSPITAL, SVG, PC 2014
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