READER’S GUIDE TAKING THE HEAT: WOMEN CHEFS AND GENDER INEQUALITY IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN By: Deborah A. Harris and Patti Giuffre 1 WELCOME! Thank you for your interest in Taking the Heat: Women Chefs and Gender Inequality in the Professional Kitchen! We developed this reading guide to help instructors who are thinking about using the book in their courses. In this reader’s guide, we’ll provide an overview of the book chapter-by-chapter along with some discussion questions to get students talking about the book and the topics we cover. We have also included some in-class assignments that relate to Taking the Heat. When we first began working on Taking the Heat, our editor at Rutgers University Press wanted to know what kinds of classes the book would fit. Our immediate answer was that the book would complement courses in gender, work and occupations, food and society, and qualitative methods. Those are the courses we teach and, of course, these were some of the main literatures that informed the final product. Therefore, most of our suggestions are geared towards those classes. However, we also believe Taking the Heat can also be an appropriate accompaniment to courses in the areas of culture, social theory, and consumption. We encourage faculty to be creative in how the approach and apply the book in their courses. If you come up with an interesting assignment or a discussion question that seems to really spark students’ interests, please pass that along. We’d love to add them to this guide. Deborah Harris, Texas State University: dh57@txstate.edu Patti Giuffre, Texas State University: pg07@txstate.edu 2 Introduction: “There’s a Girl in the Kitchen?!”: Why a Study of Women Chefs We begin our book by asking the question: If women are the gender most commonly associated with cooking at home, why is professional cooking by chefs so male dominated? Before expanding on this question we discuss the basic organization of most professional kitchens and how they are divided into the “hot” side where entrees and accompanying foods are prepared and cooked and the “cold” side where cold appetizers and desserts are prepared. Whereas the hot side of the kitchen is more male dominated, the cold side, particularly pastry chefs have more equal gender representation. We also outline the professional cooking hierarchy that culminates with head or executive chefs being the highest position in most professional kitchens. Only about 20% of head or executive chefs are women. To understand why this disparity exists, we provide a theoretical framework that incorporates Pierre Bourdieu’s concept of fields—and Patricia Parkhurst Ferguson’s notion of the gastronomic field—with Joan Acker’s work on gendered organizations. We suggest that using the concept of a gastronomic field helps understand the gendered history of the occupation and how different actors within the field help uphold male dominance. Gendered organizations theory helps explain how this dominance is maintained even as more women enter the field and what steps can be taken to change it. We conclude with a discussion of our qualitative methodology that includes content analysis of food media and in-depth interviews with women chefs. 1. Growing up, who performed most of the cooking in the home? Was there a particular reason for this? 2. Because of the growing popularity of chefs, many people who work in the larger food industry have adopted the title. What does it mean to be a “chef” and why do you think so many people now use this title? 3. Can you name any “famous” men chefs? What about “famous” women chefs? Keep in mind that Food Network hosts like Rachel Ray or Paula Deen wouldn’t fit the definition of “chef” but hosts like Bobby Flay or Mario Batali would. 4. More chefs on the “hot side” of the kitchen are men, but the “cold side” is more equal in terms of the numbers of men and women working there. Why do you think that could be the case? 5. How does a “field” seem to work? What are some of the actors that shape the gastronomic field? 3 6. How are organizations gendered? What does Joan Acker mean by gendered organizations? Think of some examples from your own work and workplaces. Were some jobs considered men’s work, and others, women’s work? Why? Why is this theory useful for understanding the culinary industry, broadly, and fine restaurants, specifically? Home versus Haute: Gender and Status in the Evolution of Professional Chefs In order to understand the current gender composition in professional kitchens, it’s necessary to learn about the origins and evolution of the chef occupation. Originally, chefs came from the French military and worked in the homes of wealthy aristocrats. Despite their talents, chefs were seen as little more than servants, but the rise of the first “celebrity chefs” Marie Antoine Careme and Auguste Escoffier showed the talents of chefs could reach beyond elite houses. The rise of restaurant culture and cooking expositions helped raise the status of chefs, but women were excluded from participating. In fact, men chefs and food writers of the time denigrated the cooking of women in the home as a means of illustrating how their measured, learned cooking in public was superior and worthy of status. Later in the chapter, we demonstrate how more recent changes to the gastronomic field, such as the rise of nouvelle cuisine and the establishment of modern celebrity chefs also excluded women. 1. In Taking the Heat, chefs are referred to as “the new rock stars” who have stepped out of the kitchen and into the spotlight. Where do we see chefs today? What forms of media, products are they part of? 2. Before reading Taking the Heat, what did you think about professional chefs? Were you surprised to learn that chefs originated as more of a servant class than the celebrities we see today? 3. Why do you think early chefs had to distinguish their work from what women do at home? 4. The chapter opens with a discussion of the ABC competitive cooking show, The Taste, where professional chefs compete against home cooks. What makes a “professional” chef different from a “home” cook? 5. Can you think of any other jobs that had to create boundaries to keep or enhance its status? Think about creative jobs where there are “amateurs” and “professionals.” From Good to Great: Food Media and Becoming a Great Chef In this chapter we discuss the power the food media holds in the career success of chefs. Through our analysis of over 2200 pieces of food writing and restaurant reviews, we found that men and women were discussed very differently in the 4 media. In general, men were described as rebels and rule breakers who brought intellectualism to cooking and reimagining cuisine, challenged tradition, and formed culinary empires. Women chefs were able to create winning dishes, adhere to time honored traditions, and focus more on pleasing others than winning accolades and building empires. Taken together, these findings suggest that the way the media presents men and women chefs helps uphold the home and haute distinctions and reaffirms the male model of cooking as the benchmark for judging “great chefs.” 1. How does food media influence the gastronomic field? 2. How does the work of critics and other specialized writers like food writers help uphold the status quo in the gastronomic field? 3. What are some other forms of media (maybe social media) that are becoming important to the gastronomic field? 4. What example(s) from Chapter Two struck you as the most blatant example of how food media depicts men and women chefs differently? 5. It could be argued that men chefs and the food they cook are just better than women chefs and their food and that’s why they are more likely to be judged as “great” chefs. After reading Taking the Heat, how would you respond to this? 6. How would you refer to Time magazine editor Howard Chua-Eoan’s claims that women weren’t excluded from the “Gods of Food” issue but that the decisions about who to include were based on “influence” in the food world? 7. Consider the research method used in this chapter: a content analysis of chef profiles and restaurant reviews. What can we learn from this research method? What are its strengths? What are we unable to learn about with this method? What are its weaknesses? Fitting In and Standing Out: Entering the Professional Restaurant Kitchen In this chapter, we examined the early years of women chef’s careers—their early training and first few jobs in the gastronomic field. We describe the special challenges women chefs had to face because of their gender and how they tried to fit into what was often all-make cooking teams. The women chefs described being tested by their men colleagues and they had to demonstrate physical and mental strength to be taken seriously by their coworkers. A major task was to make sure that women managed their emotions so that they did not fall into the “emotional” woman stereotype and the importance of never showing feminine emotional responses such as crying was mentioned by a large number of our interviewees. We devote a special section to issues of sexual harassment due to its prevalence in 5 professional kitchens and the special pains women chefs had to deal with these interactions. Finally, we discuss a pattern of gender neutrality in which women chefs actually denied the power of gender at work and insisted they had never been treated differently because of their gender—even if they had related experiences to the researchers that appeared directly related to gender. 1. How does the description of working in professional kitchens in Taking the Heat differ from how being a chef is depicted in food media, television, etc.? 2. What were some of the ways women chefs had to prove themselves to their male colleagues? How does this add to the invisible labor women chefs had to undertake to be seen as serious chefs? 3. Every worker—male and female—has to make efforts to fit in at work. How were the actions required by women chefs related to their gender? 4. Describe the gender neutrality rhetoric used by the women chefs interviewed. Why do you think some of the chefs interviewed used a rhetoric of gender neutrality in describing their work experiences? How might this rhetoric help them “survive” their gendered work? 5. Were you surprised by the prevalence of sexual harassment the chefs described? How did women seem to handle the sexual harassment? 6. Some chefs argued that the sexually charged and teasing atmosphere of professional kitchens make it a unique work culture that they really like. Others felt that this “rowdiness” helped detract from the path towards professionalism and greater respect of chefs. What do you think? Does the kitchen culture help or hurt the occupation? Bitches, Girly Girls, and Moms: Women’s Perceptions of Gender Appropriate Leadership Styles in Professional Kitchens In Chapter 4, we examine what happens when women chefs are able to ascend to positions of leadership within professional kitchens. The women chefs report that women have three roles available when they lead—bitches, girly girls, or moms/big sisters. Bitches were women chefs who adopted an authoritative, masculine form of leadership. While this fell in line with the stereotype of the angry, yelling man chef that is very prevalent in popular culture depictions of chefs, women who acted bitchy were seen as poor leaders who were being inauthentic by adopting this masculine personal. Girly girls were women who relied on their sexuality or niceness to get what they wanted from men staff. This strategy could be useful in the short term, but in the long run, the men would not respect girly girls and they would rarely advance very far. A better avenue, the chefs suggested, was to take on the role of mom or big sister. This was a feminine leadership style that was seen as 6 legitimate by men colleagues. Although we argue that this leadership style still reinforces essentialized notions of gender, our interviewees state that role afforded them the opportunity to develop and display a feminine strength that made them better leaders than men. 1. What are some characteristics of “masculine” and “feminine” leaders? 2. How does the choices to be bitchy, girly, or a mom play into stereotypes about women’s leadership? Why do women appear to rely on or perceive these three gendered styles? What are alternative leadership styles that are available to women, other than these three? Which style appears to permit women to succeed and move up in the kitchen hierarchy? Which style garners the most respect from coworkers and employees? 3. Does the women’s leadership roles we discuss remind you of critiques of women leaders in any other fields (politics, business)? 4. How does the concept of tokenism relate to women’s leadership styles? 5. Several of the chefs described their leadership style as “just the way I am” and their “natural” selves. How does this relate to the concept of gender essentialism? What role does gender essentialism play in upholding the gender hierarchy in the workplace? Challenging “Choices”: Why Some Women Leave Restaurant Kitchen Work Chapter 5 describes women chefs who left the professional kitchen for other jobs in the culinary field. It also discusses women’s perceptions of and experiences with attempts to balance and manage work/family responsibilities. Among our in-depth interview participants, 17 of the women had left kitchen work by the time of our interviews. The main reason given for their exits was the incompatibility of restaurant work with family lives. The long hours, little time off, and lack of health benefits made it difficult for mothers to remain in the field. We discuss some of the alternative jobs held by women who leave professional kitchens. Women interviewed left the professional kitchen to open their own bakery shops or catering businesses, worked for upscale grocers, or became instructors at culinary academies. Women who stay in professional kitchens were able to do so because they decided to delay or forgo having children, had supportive spouses and family members, or could do what they wanted because they were owners of restaurants. 1. Earlier in the book, Camille, a pastry chef, talks about how it’s “not really a man-woman” thing that affects men and women chefs’ careers. How does the “choices” described in Chapter 5 challenge Camille’s assertion that gender doesn’t have an impact on chefs’ careers? 7 2. The authors purposefully used quotation marks for “choices” in the chapter title. Why are sociologists concerned about using the language of “choice” when discussing balancing work and family? What does “choice” rhetoric seem to ignore? 3. Some might say that women know the conditions of chef work. They know going into it that chefs cannot leave the “line” to care for a sick child. So, why do women do this work if they know the challenges that they will face? 4. Consider the alternative jobs (outside the professional kitchen) that women entered. What are advantages or benefits of these jobs for women? What might be disadvantages for women’s work lives when they leave the professional kitchen? 5. Why don’t more women “lean in” and demand more family-friendly policies in restaurants? Why don’t more women “lean in” and demand more familyfriendly policies in all male-dominated workplaces? 6. What is the “ideal worker norm?” How does the ideal worker norm affect men and women workers differently? Why do we have a strong ideal worker norm in many workplaces in the United States? What are ways to challenge the ideal worker norm? Conclusion: Where Are the Great Women Chefs? The concluding chapter summarizes the major findings about how gender influences professional outcomes for women chefs. Historical trends, legitimizing agents that favor men chefs, hypermasculine workplace cultures, gender stereotypes about leadership, and workplace arrangements that make combining work and family responsibilities difficult all work together to disadvantage, not only women professional chefs, but also women in a number of male-dominated fields. We examine the commonly held belief that chefs are a different breed of worker and their workplaces distinct cultures that would be difficult to alter. The chapter discusses changes that can be made within the field and larger society in order to make professional cooking (and other male-dominated jobs) more gender inclusive. 1. Now that you have read the book, how would you answer the question contained in this chapter’s title: Where are the great women chefs? What would the authors say to that question? How would the chefs they interviewed answer that question? 2. Describe some of the authors’ ideas for decreasing gender inequality in the culinary industry. What do you think of their proposed solutions? Does one seem more important than some others? 8 3. Women interviewed say that they are better than and different from men chefs. Consequently, they argue that they are changing the professional kitchen culture for the better. Do you think the increased presence of women alters workplace subcultures? How? Why? Do you think women’s presence and leadership will alter other male-dominated fields? Consider, for example, recent changes in the military that have lifted bans on women in participating in ground combat, or being able to work on submarines. 4. Evaluate the research methods in the book: Historical data, interviews with women chefs, and a content analysis of chef media. How does this multi-method approach help us to understand gender inequality at work? What might the authors have done differently? Are there any missing perspectives? 5. Does the book make you feel hopeful or skeptical about decreasing gender inequality in workplaces? DISCUSSION QUESTIONS FOR SPECIFIC COURSES Work and Occupations: Chefs are often touted as being a meritocratic career—those who succeed are those with the greatest talent and drive. After reading Taking the Heat, would you say that being a chef is a meritocracy? Why or why not? If not, what other factors appear to influence a chef’s success in the gastronomic field? Can you think of any other occupations that are based around feminine skills but have been transformed into masculine occupations? What about masculine-skilled jobs that are now seen as feminine occupations? Do some research and find out how these jobs came to be associated with a particular gender. How were early men chefs able to establish their occupation as a masculine one? How is this gender segregation maintained today? What suggestions would you make to encourage more women to become professional chefs and to succeed in this competitive career? Professional kitchens have a reputation for being loud, competitive, and crude places to work. Some argue these conditions foster teamwork and unique work environments while other suggest these environment can foster macho behavior that can alienate women employees. What do you think? Do kitchens need the raunchy humor and competitive attitudes? The book discusses ideal worker norms. Chefs, like many workers, are expected to be completely devoted to their work and to prioritize work over family. How could you or we change workplace cultures so that more workers could prioritize family over work and STILL be respected by co9 workers? Should workplaces, in general, be more family friendly? What would the government, businesses, and workers themselves have to do in order for workplaces to be family friendly in the U.S.? Sociology of Gender: For instructors: Write “Masculine” on the left side of the chalk or whiteboard. Write “Feminine” on the right side of the board. Ask students to call out typical traits that are associated with these two genders. Write their answers under their respective headings. After a few minutes of this, write “Chef” in the middle of the board. Have students call out attributes of a professional chef. Then ask them which gender these traits seem to align with best. This can lead into a discussion about the gender coding of certain occupations. In Taking the Heat, we discuss the concept of gender neutrality—the notion that gender no longer matters at work. What are some ways our participants call upon the concept of gender neutrality in their interviews? We discuss how sometimes these claims of gender neutrality seemed contradictory— they would claim gender didn’t matter but then give examples of times when gender really did seem to matter at work (e.g., being passed over for a promotion after getting pregnant). Why do you think the women were reluctant to ascribe certain experiences as related to gender? What consequences does this have for studying gender? If women want to be successful in male-dominated workplaces, occupations, or industries, should they downplay gender difference? Or, should they emphasize differences between men and women? Similarly, should women in male-dominated work settings try to be “like men?” Do women have to be “like men” in order to be successful at work? If not, what would it look like for women to be “like women” and be successful in predominantly male workplaces? What does “feminine leadership” look like? What are characteristics of feminine leadership according to the women chefs interviewed? Would these styles of leadership be advantageous to women leaders in other maledominated workplaces? What about in female-dominated workplaces? Refer to the following article by Jessica Valenti: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2015/jan/15/eliminatesexism-kitchen-women-chefs-start-their-own Evaluate her arguments. Is opening all-female kitchens a way to decrease gender inequality at work? Will doing so encourage more success for women chefs? Why/why not? 10 Food & Society: Can you think of any famous men chefs? What about well-known women chefs? How do we know these people are really “chefs” (versus television personalities, for example)? What is their chef “persona” like? Do they draw from the “home” or the “haute” category in how they present themselves? Watch a male-hosted cooking show on The Food Network, The Cooking Channel, or Youtube and a show hosted by a female. Are either of them “real” chefs? How do you know? How do they two hosts perform gender (appearance, environment, mannerisms, types of foods prepared and displaced)? How do they perform legitimacy? Where do they fall along the home-haute dichotomy? How do they What types of cooking seem to garner the highest status within the gastronomic sphere? How does the work of food writers and critics help uphold male dominance in professional cooking? Many of the most prestigious chef awards are for “Best Chef,” but some will single out “Best Female Chef,” and “Best Male Chef.” Should there be awards for “Best Female Chef,” or should there only be “Best Chef” awards? Qualitative Methods: Why do you think the women sometimes had trouble labeling some of their experiences as sexual harassment or gender discrimination? As researchers, how should we address these examples when participants claim conditions like gender (or race or sexuality…) do not matter, but we believe they do? What does a content analysis of food writing and food reviews provide that another method (like interviewing food critics) might not? What kinds of information did we learn from conducting interviews with chefs that would not have been possible to obtain with a survey? What kinds of future studies or new research questions do you have after reading Taking the Heat? What research design would you propose to help you answer your question? 11 IN-CLASS EXERCISES AND/OR OUT-OF-CLASS HOMEWORK ASSIGNMENTS 1. Find 20 chef profiles in food magazines. Compare how men and women are described differently, if at all. Compare pictures (if provided in the articles) and descriptions of men and women’s cooking, leadership styles, and mentions of family (including spouses, partners, and/or children). 2. Instructors: Ask your library to subscribe to Cherry Bombe (see http://cherrybombe.com/pages/about-us). Students: Look at the Cherry Bombe website and read through two of the issues. Do you think the portrayals of women chefs will give them more visibility and status? What are the pros and cons of having a magazine specifically for women chefs? 3. Look at images of women chefs and men chefs on Google Images. Do you notice any differences in the images? Consider the activity, facial expression, posture, etc. 4. Go to Working Mother magazine (http://www.workingmother.com/) and find its most recent annual report entitled, “100 Best Companies.” What makes a company family friendly according to this report? Is there anything surprising? Using the variables in this report, do any seem to apply to restaurant kitchens? Are there any that might seem like a “long shot,” that is, highly unlikely, to occur in restaurants? Which of the variables seem essential for workers who want to balance work and family in any workplace? Choose the top 5 and explain why these are the most important. 5. Do some online research to find 10-15 examples of sexual harassment policies in different industries or workplaces. What do the policies have in common? Do you think these policies actually help to decrease sexual harassment at work? Would these policies decrease sexual harassment in restaurants or other “sexualized” workplace cultures? 6. Read through Sheryl Sandberg’s “lean in” website (http://leanin.org/) and/or the first chapter of Lean In. Do lean in strategies help to decrease gender inequality in workplaces? If women are excluded from men’s work networks (intentionally OR unintentionally), should they lean in or not? Will leaning in help workers who are marginalized in some way (e.g. age, sexual orientation, gender identity, race, and/or ethnicity) to be successful at work? 7. Watch Sheryl Sandberg’s Ted Talk or one of her many interviews on talk shows or news shows. Summarize Sandberg’s lean in strategies. Do you think the women chefs in this book are leaning in? Why or why not? What are the potential advantages and disadvantages of “leaning in” in professional kitchens or other maledominated workplaces? 12 8. Watch the following webclips about internationally known chef, Gabrielle Hamilton: http://www.makers.com/gabrielle-hamilton http://www.makers.com/moments/staying-self-focused http://www.makers.com/moments/take-chance A. Why do you think her food is described as “comfort food?” What is comfort food? Why would comfort food carry less status and prestige in the culinary industry? B. Find an interview with Gordon Ramsey, or a clip from one of his “Hell’s Kitchen” episodes. Compare how he and Gabrielle Hamilton talk about food, their restaurant, and/or their staff. 9. Thematic analysis: Below is an exercise Deborah has used in her qualitative research methods course. It usually takes 1-2 class periods but it is a great way to get students used to analyzing interview data. Students begin with edge coding the interview transcripts in order to find an answer to “How women chefs earn respect from their male colleagues.” After about 15 minutes, students get into groups of 2-3 and then spend about 20 minutes discussing their findings and narrowing this down to 3-4 common themes within the data. Students are told to make sure they have plenty of evidence from the interviews to illustrate their themes. Then the instructor asks the groups to share some of their themes and writes them on the whiteboard/chalkboard. From these excerpts, students tend to identify several themes (double standards for women chefs, women have to be bitchy, women have to be nice, women act like moms or big sisters, women treat coworkers like family). The instructor asks for evidence of each theme. After this, the instructor discusses how the students could write this up as a findings section (how to organize the themes to flow together). 13 THEMATIC ANALYSIS BACKGROUND: With any type of qualitative research project there comes the time when you have to analyze all the data you have collected. One way of analyzing data is referred to as “thematic analysis” and involves examining your data (from interviews, field notes, notes about media content, etc.), underlining and edge coding your data, and identifying common themes across your data. DIRECTIONS: For this assignment, you have been provided selections from interview transcripts. The overall project was aimed at understanding the work experiences of female chefs to help us learn more about women in nontraditional jobs. In particular, the data you have are the responses to questions about how these women earned the respect of their male coworkers. To complete the assignment, read over the interviews, highlight or underline segments that you think relate to the issue of “Earning Respect in the Kitchen.” After you do this, pair up with another student and discuss what you have highlighted. Try and see if there are any common patterns to how female chefs earn respect. Do the interviews seem to agree? Are there any disagreements? These general headings are your themes and you should label the themes to the side of the statement (edge coding). List some of the themes you identified below. THEMES: THEMATIC ANALYSIS Amber (34, White, caterer—former events director for a restaurant) I would definitely say that I tried to really sort of pay attention to my staff. I sort of always tried to pay attention to their families. If they had a problem, I was always ready to put myself out to make sure they were taken care of. If they couldn’t come to work because of a family emergency, whatever it was, I was like: “Don’t worry about it. No problem. I’ll take care of it.” And it would. The men…the male managers were more ready to punish, in a sense, or reprimand for not coming to work when maybe it wasn’t their fault. I definitely tried to see the whole picture and act accordingly. Camille (32, White, executive pastry chef) I also think there’s kind of an element of, you know, there’s a lot of physical side to the kitchen that maybe isn’t obvious unless you’re in it. You know, you’ve got a bag of flour weighs fifty pounds. And, you know, you need to be able to move that from one place to 14 another (laughs). Asking a boy to do that for you would NOT be a good idea. Cause you’re definitely going to get put in a category (laughs) of “You Can’t REALLY Do Your Job” because you’re not physically strong enough. We have a girl on the line right now, and her name’s Andra, and, you know, she’s tough. And she let them know right off the bat that she, you know, that she can talk just as nasty (laughs). You know, that she can say just as many bad words. She can carry the case of veal bones herself and she kind of initiated that—set it up—and now there’s no doubt. Everybody knows she can do it. Dana (44, White, executive chef) Oh, it’s such a fine line. It is a double-standard. A guy can say whatever he wants, well, not whatever he wants, but he can say the same thing and get a result. For me, it takes more. I can’t say it the same way. I have to find another way to say it. I have to know those people well enough to know how they’re going to act when I ask them for something. To get what I want, I have to know how to manipulate how I am. I had to have a talk with one of the servers. He got really offended. He and I play around a lot. We’re always mean and like brother and sister, we laugh about it. One time he said, “It’s your tone when you ask me.” I said, “Jake says the same things to you and you just shut your mouth and do what you’re told. But when I say it, it’s a problem.” He said, “It’s just the way you say it.” I was like, “You just don’t like that I’m saying it.” I got really upset. “It’s not fair that he can say that, a guy can say that, and you just do what you’re told.” He said, “You’re just being mean.” I said, “I’m not being mean.” It’s my biggest pet peeve. Brenda (54, White, bakery owner—former executive pastry chef) I think they’re more open. I don’t know if they were trying to get a rise out of me or not, but I think they realized that you can say anything to me. I don’t blush easily. I don’t get offended easily. ‘Cause I’ll smack it right back at you if I have to. They just kind of realized that I was down to earth. I’m a nice boss. I’m too nice, which was a downfall, too. I’m too nice. But, it’s like “Just tell me, whatever your problem is.” So, I think it was easy for them to be more open with me ‘cause I was a female. I don’t know if they saw me as their sister or what. But, they also knew that I would go fight for them. And I would. I always did. It was just easy. And, I honestly think that because I was nice—I wasn’t a bitch to everybody—I was nice to everyone from the steward on up to everyone. I was nice to them. And I think that makes a big difference in how they treat you… And one of the other girls who worked at nighttime, my cook two at the time, she was bitchy. And, if somebody interrupted her routine or whatever she was doing—because at night they had to do the desserts a la minute—she’d get all bitchy. And, bottom line I said: “You need to be nicer to people. And, they’ll respect you.” Erin (37, White, chef de cuisine) 15 I have a lot of respect in this kitchen because I won’t ask anybody to do anything that I wouldn’t do. I mop the floor and get my hands dirty just like everybody else. And I think that I have gained a lot of respect because of that. So no one feels like, you know, I think that I’m better than anyone else. So that has helped me along the way. Occasionally it gets tense in the kitchen, but this is sort of a unique restaurant. We’re all family. Jane (35, White, pastry instructor—former pastry chef) There were always comments made on the line…I for some reason got kind of lucky. Most of it was not directed at me. I think maybe since I grew up with boys and was kind of a tomboy growing up. I knew how to hang with the guys a little bit. I don’t wear a lot of jewelry or make-up or anything like that. It was easier for me to blend in. There were some of my co-workers who I worked with who there were comments made about them, sexual and otherwise, and then once you ever showed any kind of weakness at all, it was just like they felt like this is a guy’s area and if you can’t hang with that then you need to get out. Karen (32, Hispanic, executive pastry chef) You do have to have a strong personality to lead and to manage, to be calm under pressure. That’s a big part of this job. You can’t do that if you’re meek and you’re highly sensitive and if you have a thin skin. No one’s going to follow a person like that. It’s a double-edged sword and I can live with that. I can live with that “she’s difficult to deal with” but chances are there’s other men who do the same thing but it’s acceptable. It has always been. I have always felt that way, that I get that because I’m a woman. That I’m difficult to deal with because I push back but if I were a man and I pushed back, then I would assertive and I would be aggressive. I would be a go getter. But because I’m a woman, I’m difficult to deal with. Chelsea (36, White, pastry instructor—former pastry chef) I always tell everyone this theory. I think they [women chefs] either choose to be slutty or they choose to be bitchy. I mean (laughs) you’re either tough or you’re not. It’s not necessarily a bad thing [to be slutty]. It’s how they use that to get what they want. You can be the girl who is flirty and sweet and whatever yk, that’s not really going to propel you anywhere. They’re [the male chefs] going to take advantage of that or think you can’t do things. They’re not going to have respect for you that way. You probably get what you want but you won’t get respect. You’ll get the sugar off the top shelf. Yk, maybe they won’t completely harass you all the time because you’re sweet to them or whatever. Or you can choose to be like, “I’m not going to respond to any of that and I’m going to be the bitch.” Then, eventually they respect you. So I was always very sweet but then I learned that…but I was always very bitchy too… I hate saying I’m a bitch (laughs) 16 because I’m not. It’s just that any woman who’s put in that level of authority is a bitch, yk? Like here, I still have that problem here with all the guy chefs. They do not want me to tell them to do things. I’m like, “Are you kidding me?” If it was a guy, you’d have no problem with it. I find that they…with me, they want me to hold their hands. They want me to be super nice to them, and I’m just like, “Sorry. I’m not your mother.” It’s a funny dynamic. MOVIES AND DOCUMENTARIES ABOUT CHEFS Films Chef (2014) LeChef (2012) Haute Cuisine (2012) Julie and Julia (2009) Today’s Special (2009) Ratatoullie (2007) No Reservations (2007) Tortilla Soup (2001) Mostly Martha (2001) Big Night (1996) The Hundred-Foot Journey (2014) Eat Drink Man Woman (1994) Documentaries Chef’s Table (2015) Noma, My Perfect Storm (2014) Jiro Dreams of Sushi (2011) A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt (2011) Ludo (2013) Spinning Plates (2012) Three Stars (2012) The Restauranteur (2010) Kings of Pastry (2009) Pressure Cooker (2008) The Kitchen (2006) The Mind of a Chef (2012-2013) 17