Birding Beijing TRIP REPORT: Wuerqihan and XiQi, Inner Mongolia, China 20-26 December 2014 Terry Townshend, Marie Louise and Jamin Tse Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula) www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 1. Introduction and Summary Three of us – Terry Townshend, Marie Louise and Jamin Tse - decided to spend Christmas 2014 in snowy (and cold) northern Inner Mongolia. Our targets were some of the northern specialities, with an emphasis on owls. We divided our time between two sites – Wuerqihan (2-2.5 hours east of Hailar) and XiQi (c4 hrs west of Hailar). The two sites, although relatively close (c6 hours by car), are very different. The habitat around Wuerqihan consists of both thick and open forest (predominantly birch and spruce), hosting the large owls such as Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa), Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) and Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula), as well as sought after species such as Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus) and Black-billed Capercaillie (Tetrao parvirostris). At this site, we spent most of our time birding along the minor road (Z001) that runs northeast of the town, and exploring the numerous tracks that run southeast and northwest of the road. There is some great habitat to the south of Wuerqihan, too, where we encountered Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula), Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) and Black (Dryocopus martius) and White-backed Woodpeckers (Dendrocopos leucotos). XiQi is very different. The habitat to the south of the town is rolling grassland with very few trees. This area is the prime (known) site in China for wintering Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) and we saw at least 6 of these beautiful birds during our trip, including one adult male. Within a couple of hours of the prime Snowy Owl site (south of XiQi) there are sites for Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) and Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa), both southwest of XiQi. With different habitat and birds, these two sites make for a rewarding trip, particularly during winter. With longer days and, perhaps, less cold, it may be more productive, and more comfortable, to visit in early winter (e.g. November) or early Spring (e.g. late March). The latter must be a better time for Black-billed Capercaillie (Tetrao parvirostris) and other grouse as they should be lekking at this time, and consequently easier to locate. In XiQi, our guide told us that around 1,000 people visit every winter to see the Snowy Owls (Bubo scandiacus). The vast majority of these are photographers. The main guide here – Zhao Shuanglong - runs an efficient operation including several drivers (some are his brothers) and a network of hotels and restaurants. As expected, there are times www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing when the drivers deliberately flush the owls to enable their clients to secure images of the owls in flight. However, by controlling the driver, it is possible to refrain from getting too close and to observe these wonderful owls at a reasonable distance without disturbing them. The Snowy Owls (Bubo scandiacus) are said to be present in XiQi from November to mid-April. Bird density is low in northern Inner Mongolia in winter but the quality is high. In total we recorded 49 species plus one that remains cautiously unidentified to species level (either Japanese [Parus minor] or Great Tit [Parus major]– seen poorly in Wuerqihan town). Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus), female, XiQi, Inner Mongolia www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 2. Highlights The following are our personal highlights from the trip: Six species of owl: Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo); Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa); Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula), Little Owl (Athene noctua), Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus); and Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) Six species of woodpecker: Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius); Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major); Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus); Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor); Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus); and White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos) 57 Pere David’s Snowfinches (Pyrgilauda davidiana) 5 Asian Rosy Finches (Leucosticte arctoa) A single Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus) 2 Pine Grosbeaks (Pinicola enucleator) At least 5 Arctic Redpolls (Carduelis hornemanni) Pallas’s (Carpodacus roseus) and Long-tailed Rosefinches (Uragus sibiricus) Eurasian Bullfinches (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), including the grey-bellied subspecies cineracea Note that we did not see or hear Black-billed Capercaillie (Tetrao parvirostris) or Boreal (Tengmalm’s) Owl (Aegolius funereus), both of which are present but in small numbers and hard to find. Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum) is another species that should be possible here, although our guide at Wuerqihan, Zhang Wu, told us that it is rare and, perhaps surprisingly, he has only seen it in summer. www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 3. Weather At Wuqierhan it was very cold with a lot of snow on the ground. The temperature when we landed in Hailar was -31 degrees Celsius and it didn’t rise much above -25 for the duration of our stay in Wuerqihan, sometimes dipping to -35 or below. Snow was perhaps over 40-50cm deep in the forest and along some of the less-used trails. With the exception of a light snow shower on day two, it was mostly sunny and clear with, thankfully, little wind. At XiQi there was much less snow (around 10 cm) and the temperatures were much less cold (in the range of -5 to -19), although this was somewhat offset by wind that blew uninhibited across the grassland. At XiQi, again, we were blessed with sunny, clear days. Arrival at Hailar Airport in a bone-chilling -31 degrees Celsius www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing The site, south of Wuerqihan, where we found two Hawk Owls plus Black and White-backed Woodpeckers. www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Terry at XiQi – very different habitat of open grassland www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 4. Itinerary On Saturday 20 December we flew from Beijing Capital International Airport to Hailar on the 0730 flight, arriving at 0945 after a short delay. At the airport in Hailar we met our pre-arranged taxi and travelled from Hailar to Wuerqihan (2.5-3 hrs), where we spent 3.5 days in the company of our local guide, Mr Zhang Wu. Here we saw two of our “big 3” owl targets – Hawk (Surnia ulula) and Great Grey (Strix nebulosa)- as well as Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus), 6 species of Woodpecker, Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni), Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) etc. After our final full day’s birding in Wuerqihan on 23rd, we made an evening transfer to XiQi (just under 6 hours from Wuerqihan), where we spent 3 days. Here we saw at least 6 Snowy Owls (Bubo scandiacus) plus Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa), Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia), Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) etc. After enjoying our last afternoon with Snowy Owls on 26th, we left the Snowy Owl site at 4pm to take a private taxi to Manzhouli Airport (2.5 hrs). We returned to Beijing Nanyuan Airport on the 2130 flight, arriving at 2315. All arrangements were made with local guides at each site. Please contact birdingbeijing@gmail.com for guide details. Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa). Wuerqihan. www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 5. Detailed Daily Diary Saturday 20 December 2014 Took the 0730 flight from Beijing Capital International Airport to Hailar, arriving at 0945. It was -31 degrees C on arrival. We met our pre-arranged taxi (arranged by Mr Zhang Wu) and set off for Wuerqihan, a journey that, ordinarily, should take 2-2.5 hours. The road from Hailar Airport to Yakeshi is Expressway (G10) with a rougher (but easily driveable) road from Yakeshi to Wuerqihan. We opted to take the side road from Hailar to Yakeshi so that we could bird along the way. Consequently, we arrived at Wuerqihan later than we could have. But we saw lots of birds. Species seen: Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – 2 Hill Pigeon (Columba rupestris) - 51 Feral Pigeon - 7 Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius)- 7 Common Magpie (Pica pica) - 18 Raven (Corvus corax)- 6 Corvid sp, Carrion or Large-billed (Corvus corone or Corvus macrorhynchos) – 6 Marsh Tit (Poecile palustris) – 3 Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)– 7 Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) – 1 Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)– 68 Redpoll sp (Carduelis flammea or Carduelis hornemanni)- 91 Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) - at least 5 Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) - 25 Pallas's Rosefinch (Carpodacus roseus) – 5 Pallas’s Rosefinch, Wuerqihan www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) – 2 Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – 17 Snow Bunting (Calcarius nivalis)- 25 We arrived Wuerqihan at 1315. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we went straight out along the track NE of Wuerqihan (with the same taxi driver). We spent the afternoon looking for owls and visiting a “feeding station”, about 15-16 km along this road on the left hand side. Species Seen: Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)– 1 Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) - 2 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)- 1 male Raven (Corvus corax) - 2 Corvid sp, Large-billed or Carrion Crow (Corvus corone or Corvus macrorhynchos) - 2 Marsh Tit (Poecile palustris)- 3 Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammea) - 15 Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) - 4 Pallas's Rosefinch (Carpodacus roseus) - 3 Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – 9, including 3 of the grey-bellied subspecies cineracea Snow Bunting (Calcarius nivalis) - 1 Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni), Wuerqihan www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Sunday 21 December Spent the day along the same road and various tracks off it from 0745-1630. Weather was mostly overcast, a light snow shower around midday and very cold (well below -30 in the early morning). A relatively slow day. Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonania) - 2 Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) – 2 Small Woodpecker sp - 1 Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius brandtii)- 5 Raven (Corvus corax) – 2 Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) - 2 Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) – 2 Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammea) - 45 Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrula pyrrhula) - 6 Mammals: Siberian Roe Deer (Capreolus pygargus) - 4 www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Monday 22 December Headed south of Wuerqihan 0745-1630 Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) - 1 Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula) – 2 Hill Pigeon (Columba rupestris) - 32 Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) - 1 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor) - 1 m White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos) - 1 Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) - 1 (female) Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus) – 1 Northern Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) - 1 Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius brandtii ) - 12 Raven (Corvus corax) – 3 Corvid sp, Carrion or Large-billed (Corvus corone or Corvus macrorhynchos) – 14 Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) - 22 Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus) – 4 White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) - 40+ leucotos), Wuerqihan Redpoll sp (Carduelis sp) - 14 Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) – 4 Pallas's Rosefinch (Carpodacus roseus) - 2 Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – 26 (including one of the grey-bellied subspecies cineracea) Mammals: Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)- 1 Siberian Weasel (Mustela sibirica) – 1 www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Tuesday 23 December Headed NE of Wuerqihan again to look for Siberian Jay and Spotted Capercaillie. Visited a private site (through one locked barrier and a locked gate) about 2 hours north of Wuerqihan. Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonasia) – 1 Common Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) - 1 female Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor) - 1 male Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) - 1 Northern Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) – 1 Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus) - 1 Raven (Corvus corax) – 1 Japanese/Great Tit (Parus major/Parus minor) – 1 seen badly early morning Willow Tit (Poecile montanus)- 4 Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus ) – 8 Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) - 2 Redpoll sp (Carduelis sp) - 7 Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) - 3 @1700 drove to Hailar (2 hours) where we changed car and drove to Xiqi (3hrs 50 minutes) Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus), Wuerqihan www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Wednesday 24 December 0745 breakfast; left restaurant at 0850 Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – 3 Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus) - 1 Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius) – 7 Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) - 2 Little Owl (Athene noctua) - 2 Chinese Grey Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus) – 1 Common Magpie (Pica pica) - 3 Mongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica) - 85 Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) – 125 Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) - 2 Snow Bunting (Calcarius nivalis) - 2 Mammals: Fox sp with grey face - 2 Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) at XiQi www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Thursday 25 December Morning spent looking for Snowy Owls; afternoon at two other sites for Snowfinch and Asian Rosy Finch, Rock Sparrow, Daurian Partridge Daurian Partridge (Perdix dauurica) - 6 Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – 6 Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus) - 2 Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius) - 15 Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) - at least 6, including 1 adult male Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo)- 1 Little Owl (Athene noctua) - 3 Magpie (Pica pica) - 6 Chinese Grey Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus) - 1 Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) - 100s Mongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica) - 100s Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) - 16 Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa) - 5 Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia) – 35 Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus) - 180 www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing Friday 26 December Visited snowfinch site again and then to the Snowy Owl site for late afternoon Daurian Partridge (Perdix dauurica) – 12 Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius) – 8 Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) - 1 Chinese Grey Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus) – 1 Magpie (Pica pica) - 4 Mongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica) - 300 Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) – 350 Long-tailed Rosefinch (Uragus sibiricus) - 1 Brambling (Fringilla montifringilla) – 1 Pere David’s Snowfinch (Pyrgilauda davidiana) – 57 Meadow Bunting (Emberiza cioides) - 3 Asian Rosy Finch (Leucosticte arctoa), near XiQi www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 6. Key Tips I strongly recommend using the local guides and not attempting to visit these areas independently. Up to date local knowledge is needed to find the key species – owls are at very low density in vast forests. Also, Mr Zhang at Wuerqihan has access to several private areas that produce good birds (our only Siberian Jay was in one such area). Attempting to do the trip independently will significantly increase the risk of missing key birds. In addition, there is no mobile phone signal once you are a few kilometres north of Wuerqihan – if you run into difficulties, there is no way to call for assistance and, if you are on one of the side tracks, you could be many kilometres from the road in sub -30 temperatures. This is dangerous. The local guide has high-powered walkie-talkies to contact the town in event of any difficulty. As of December 2014 Mr Zhang’s car in Wuerqihan does not have an effective heater, so it is well below freezing inside the car as well as outside. Many layers of clothing are needed and special attention should be given to vulnerable toes and fingers. The driving conditions are treacherous, even for experienced 4x4 drivers familiar with snow – our experienced local guide at Wuerqihan came off the road once and we also experienced two minor bumps with trees due to sliding on the snow. If you are taking a camera, consider taking “heat pads”. It appears that Nikon cameras are particularly vulnerable to the cold. Wrapping your camera in a heat pad at the beginning of each day will ensure you don’t have problems with your equipment. 7. Map of Wuerqihan area See: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zarj9XHXHpjE.kzuyw215jYW www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 8. Full Species List English Name 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Hazel Grouse Daurian Partridge Common Pheasant Common Kestrel Northern Harrier/Hen Harrier Upland Buzzard Rough-legged Buzzard Golden Eagle Hill Pigeon Eurasian Collared Dove Snowy Owl Eurasian Eagle Owl Ural Owl Great Grey Owl Northern Hawk Owl Little Owl Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Scientific Name Chinese Name Tetrastes bonasia 花尾榛鸡 Perdix dauurica 斑翅山鹑 Phasianus colchicus 环颈雉 Falco tinnunculus 红隼 Circus cyaneus 白尾鹞 Comments Buteo hemilasius Buteo lagopus Aquila chrysaetos Columba rupestris Streptopelia decaocto Nyctea scandiaca Bubo bubo 大鵟 毛脚鵟 金雕 岩鸽 灰斑鸠 Strix uralensis Strix nebulosa Surnia ulula Athene noctua Dendrocopos minor 长尾林鸮 乌林鸮 猛鸮 纵纹腹小鸮 小斑啄木鸟 Common at XiQi One seen at XiQi One at Wuerqihan A flock at Wuerqihan A single bird loosely mixing with Hill Pigeons 11at Wuerqihan At least 6 seen at XiQi, including one adult male One southwest of XiQi (on way to Asian Rosy Finch site) 2 at Wuerqihan on 20th 1 at Wuerqihan on 22nd 2 at Wuerqihan on 22nd All at XiQi; not seen at Wuerqihan Regularly encountered at Wuerqihan 雪鸮 雕鸮 3 seen but none well Seen very well at XiQi 1 female seen at Wuerqihan Seen at both sites 2 (an adult male and a ‘ringtail’ at XiQi) www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 18 23 White-backed Woodpecker Great Spotted Woodpecker Three-toed Woodpecker Black Woodpecker Great Grey Shrike/Northern Shrike Chinese Grey Shrike 24 Siberian Jay 25 Eurasian Jay 26 27 28 Common Magpie Carrion Crow Corvid sp (Carrion Crow or Large-billed Crow) Common Raven Great Tit or Japanese Tit Marsh Tit Willow Tit Long-tailed Tit 19 20 21 22 29 30 31 32 33 Dendrocopos 白背啄木鸟 leucotos Dendrocopos major 大斑啄木鸟 One at the Hawk Owl site at Wuerqihan Picoides tridactylus 三趾啄木鸟 One at Wuerqihan Dryocopus martius Lanius excubitor 黑啄木鸟 灰伯劳 One at Wuerqihan At Wuerqihan Lanius sphenocercus Perisoreus infaustus Garrulus glandarius Pica pica Corvus corone Corvus sp 楔尾伯劳 At XiQi 北噪鸦 One at Wuerqihan 松鸦 Common at Wuerqihan (ssp brandti) 喜鹊 小嘴乌鸦 Common at XiQi Common at Wuerqihan but not seen at XiQi Several seen poorly and unidentified. Corvus corax Parus major/Parus minor Parus palustris Parus montanus Aegithalos 渡鸦 大山雀 At Wuerqihan One in the town at Wuerqihan (seen poorly) 沼泽山雀 褐头山雀 银喉长尾山雀 At Wuerqihan Common at Wuerqihan One small flock seen south of Wuerqihan Seen at Wuerqihan www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 34 Mongolian Lark 35 Horned Lark/Shorelark Eurasian Nuthatch 36 37 caudatus Melanocorypha mongolica Eremophila alpestris Sitta europaea 蒙古百灵 Very common at XiQi 角百灵 Very common at XiQi 普通䴓 Seen in small numbers at Wuerqihan (very white underparts, ssp arctica?) Common at Wuerqihan and XiQi Eurasian Tree Sparrow Rock Sparrow Passer montanus 麻雀 Petronia petronia 石雀 41 42 Common Redpoll Arctic Redpoll 43 44 Asian Rosy Finch Long-tailed Rosefinch Pyrgilauda davidiana Fringilla montifringilla Carduelis flammea Carduelis hornemanni Leucosticte arctoa Uragus sibiricus 黑喉雪雀 40 Père David's Snowfinch Brambling 45 Pallas's Rosefinch Carpodacus roseus 北朱雀 46 Pine Grosbeak Pinicola enucleator 松雀 47 Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula 红腹灰雀 38 39 燕雀 白腰朱顶雀 极北朱顶雀 粉红腹岭雀 长尾雀 Common at the Asian Rosy Finch site southwest of XiQi A flock of 57 seen southwest of XiQi (on way to Asian Rosy Finch site) A single at XiQi Common at Wuerqihan Not uncommon in flocks of Common Redpoll at Wuerqihan 5 at the site southwest of XiQi Common in Wuerqihan, especially along the road from Hailar Airport to Wuerqihan and also seen at the feeding station Encountered regularly in small numbers at Wuerqihan Two on the journey from Hailar Airport to Wuerqihan Common at Wuerqihan, predominantly the pyrrhula but also a few of the ‘grey-bellied’ ssp www.BirdingBeijing.com Birding Beijing 48 49 Meadow Bunting Lapland Longspur 50 Snow Bunting Emberiza cioides Calcarius lapponicus Plectrophenax nivalis 三道眉草鹀 铁爪鹀 雪鹀 cineracea In the small wood just south of XiQi Flocks encountered on the way to the Asian Rosy Finch site southwest of XiQi A few along the road from Hailar Airport to Wuerqihan; one near the feeding station at Wuerqihan Mammals Siberian Roe Deer (Capreolus pygargus)- 7 Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) - 8 Fox sp with grey face - 2 Gerbil (Meriones unguiculatus) - 2 www.BirdingBeijing.com