File - Critters Exotic Pets

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Guinea Pig Care Sheet
Adult Size: 1 1/2 to 4 lbs
Native To: South America
Lifespan: 3-6 Years
Diet: Herbivorous
Characteristics: Lively, friendly, easy to tame, and tolerant of handling
Compared to most mammals, which are born naked and blind, Guinea Pigs get off to a fast start, coming into
this world with fur and their eyes opened. Within a day or two of birth, they’re able to eat the same plant
matter as their parents. By the age of four weeks, they’re weaned from mother’s milk. In the wild, they’re
capable of breeding themselves after about three months.
Feeding/Water:
Guinea Pigs are the only rodents that cannot manufacture their own Vitamin C, so they must receive it
completely from their diet. Without an adequate intake of Vitamin C, a Guinea Pig will develop scurvy. Quality
Guinea Pig pellets are enriched with Vitamin C, which is one reason why they should be a staple of a pet’s diet.
(Rabbit pellets, and pellets formulated for other small animals should not be given to Guinea Pigs, because
they are not Vitamin C enriched.) Vitamin C is rapidly oxidized by heat, air, and sunlight, so Guinea Pig food
should be purchased fresh in small quantities, in a package that shows an expiration date. Vitamin C that is
microencapsulated will be more stable in the food. In addition to pellets, a Guinea Pig should be given fresh
and washed leafy greens such as spinach, parsley, romaine lettuce, carrots, green bell peppers and turnip
greens on a daily basis. Occasional fruit likes oranges can be offered in moderation, but be sure all seeds are
removed, because they can be toxic to a Guinea Pig. Sweet fruits such as grapes or raisins should never be
included in the diet. Do not attempt to provide the Guinea Pig with adequate Vitamin C by including fruit in its
diet. It is far safer and healthier to do this by providing a Vitamin C tablet. Avoid giving a Guinea Pig cabbage,
broccoli, cauliflower and similar vegetables, since they cause gas. Iceberg lettuce should also be avoided, since
it has little nutritional value. Vitamin C tablets developed for Guinea Pigs can also be added to the diet. Many
Guinea Pigs will need a supplemental form of Vitamin C. (Consult your vet.) Guinea Pigs are strict vegetarians
and should not be given meat. Unlimited hay should be available to the Guinea Pig at all times. This includes
timothy, oat or orchard hay, but alfalfa hay should be avoided. Growing Guinea Pigs (under six months) should
be offered unlimited pellets along with their hay. After six months, the size of the pellet portion should be cut
back to 1/8 cup per day, depending on the size of the individual Guinea Pig and the amount of fresh produce
served. A Guinea Pig can be given ½ cup to one cup of greens a day. It’s a good idea to give Guinea Pigs their
food in two or three feedings per day, rather than in a single meal. Use common sense and follow the advice
of a veterinarian to ensure that your Guinea Pig receives an adequate diet, but does not become obese.
Guinea Pigs need a constant supply of clean fresh chlorine-free water, most preferring a cage-mounted
drinking bottle to a dish. Change the water daily, and check for leakage - the water should only come out
when the animal sips at the tube.
Housing:
Despite their relatively small stature, Guinea Pigs must have space to move about and explore. A single Guinea
Pig’s cage should be at least 14 inches high, by 18 inches wide by 25 inches deep. Another rule of thumb is to
provide at least 1 square foot of added floor space for each additional Guinea Pig in an enclosure. (As noted
above, Guinea Pigs are happiest when housed in same-sex pairs, but will also do well alone, if given attention
by their human companions.) The cage must be large enough to contain a secluded hide-away, which is
essential for a Guinea Pig’s psychological health, as well as a food bowl and toys. Cages that open from the top
are preferable, since they make it easier to pick up the Guinea Pig safely and are less difficult to clean. A
Guinea Pig’s enclosure must be well ventilated. Aquarium tanks must not be used to house Guinea Pigs,
because they do not provide adequate ventilation. Poor air circulation promotes infectious diseases and
respiratory ailments. Avoid wire mesh floors, since they can cause foot and leg sores. Slatted plastic floors are
acceptable, but solid floors are better. Commercially available Guinea Pig cages comprise a plastic tub base
with a detachable wire top. Never locate a Guinea Pig’s cage in direct sunlight or drafty areas, including attics
and basements. The cage should be place in a quiet area that has a consistent temperature and is not
accessible to other pets.
Bedding:
Guinea Pigs need around an inch of an absorbent substrate – recommended materials includes as aspen
shavings or a pelleted rodent bedding on the floor of their enclosure. Fine sawdust can create too much dust
in the enclosure, leading to eye irritations and respiratory infections. Cedar and pine based products should
never be used, since they can cause severe respiratory problems. Hay is essential for a Guinea Pig’s health and
well-being. Guinea Pigs enjoy burrowing in hay, plus chewing on hay will help wear down their constantly
growing teeth. Timothy, oat or orchard hay is preferable to alfalfa hay, which has a high fat content. Alfalfa
hay can be offered during early growth periods and to pregnant females. Straw should never be used in a
Guinea Pig enclosure, because its sharp points can injure the animal’s eyes. Since hay does not control odors
and turns moldy very quickly when it gets wet or soiled, it should be changed every day or two. The absorbent
wood shavings beneath the hay need to be changed once a week. If you use corn cob bedding change it often
to protect against the buildup of bacteria and mold. Also do not use corn cob bedding with a pet that may
ingest bedding.
Exercise & Chewing:
Guinea Pigs will be healthier, happier and more alert if they’re given the chance to get outside their cage every
day for some play and exercise. Letting the Guinea Pig run free in a room of the house under the constant
supervision of its human companion is fine, provided the room is pocket pet-proof. This means that doors and
windows are secure, so there is no way for the Guinea Pig to get out or another pet to get in; that the space
below or behind heavy furniture is blocked off; and that electrical cords and potentially toxic household plants
and cleaners are not accessible. An alternative is to place temporary playpen gating in the room. The pen
should be at least 20” high to prevent escapes. Most Guinea Pigs will welcome the opportunity to explore the
inside of a paper bag or box when let outside the cage. For fun, place a plastic child’s wading pool in a room
and fill it with timothy hay, then watch as the Guinea Pigs have the time of their lives burrowing. Inside the
cage, a Guinea Pig must have constant access to chew blocks, gnawing logs or any other toy that it can chomp
on safely. A Guinea Pig’s teeth are constantly growing, and must be trimmed by chewing the right foods and
chew toys. Platforms that afford climbing opportunities are always appreciated by Guinea Pigs as are tunnels
that they can crawl through. Make sure that tunnels are wide enough for the pet to enjoy without getting
stuck. Large fleece logs and blankets can also be provided to the Guinea Pig. All toys and accessories must be
inspected for soiling or damage caused by chewing. Soiled or damaged items should be removed from the
cage and either cleaned or discarded. Guinea Pigs should not be given exercise wheels, since this can harm
them. Although Guinea Pigs should not be kept outdoors, they will enjoy spending time in a secure escapeproof backyard pet pen under the close and constant supervision of their human companion. Never leave the
Guinea Pig alone outdoors – it can soon dig its way out, or be attacked by a passing cat. If a Guinea Pig’s pen is
placed outdoors for even a brief play period, make sure that the grass below it has not been treated by
pesticides or other chemical agents.
Grooming:
Shorthaired Guinea Pigs need brushing only once a week, with a fine-tooth comb or a pin brush. Any rosettes should be
brushed in the natural direction of hair growth. Longhaired Guinea Pigs need thorough grooming every day with a widetooth comb and a slicker brush. When the hair is thoroughly detangled, the hair is often set in special balsa wood or
cotton wraps to keep it clean and tidy. If the hair is left unwrapped, the animal will trip over it, drag it through soiled
substrate and may accidentally urinate on it. All Guinea Pigs need their nails trimmed every 8 to 12 weeks. Since the nail
has a blood supply known as the ‘quick’ that can easily be nicked, this task is best left to a veterinarian at first. After
observing the correct way to trim the nails, some owners choose to trim their pet’s nails at home, one person holding
the animal wrapped in a towel while a second person trims the nails.
Lighting:
Hamsters have no special lighting requirements, other than a 12-hour on/12-hour off day/night cycle.
Temperature & Humidity: No Special Needs:
Guinea Pigs have no special heating or lighting requirements, and are generally happy at an average room temperature.
A temperature in the 65-70 degree Fahrenheit range and a humidity of 50 percent are ideal.
How to Handle:
As applies to their gentle nature, Guinea Pigs are delicate animals with fragile bones. They can easily become
injured if dropped or mishandled. Approach a Guinea Pig gently with two hands. Place one hand gently but
securely under the chest, restraining one front leg by placing a finger in front of it. Use your other hand to
support the Guinea Pig’s hindquarters. Cradling the pet, pull him closer to your body so he feels safer. Never
pick a Guinea Pig up by the shoulders or front of his body, since this can cause injury. Some Guinea Pigs have a
tendency to jump out of their human companion’s hands when being set down. To reduce the risk of this
behavior and the injuries it can cause, lower a Guinea Pig back into its enclosure rump first, rather than
holding the animal parallel to the ground.
The material is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole sources of pet care information.
Visit a veterinarian and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
Recommended Supplies:
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Enclosure
Vitamin C Enriched Guinea Pig Food Pellets
Vitamin C Supplement
Chew Block
Absorbent, Dust-Free Bedding
Timothy Hay
Metal Tipped Water Bottle
Food Bowl
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