Washington, DC Basic Site Info
Ford’s Theatre
The theatre was a Baptist church before theatre entrepreneur John T. Ford leased
the church in 1861. He converted the church to a music hall, an extremely successful
hot spot in town until it was destroyed by a fire in 1862. Ford immediately started
construction and was able to reopen just a year later in August 1863. The theatre is
most well known for Lincoln’s assassination on April 14, 1865 by actor John Wilkes
Booth, just five days after General Lee’s surrender at Appomattox Court House.
The Confederate capitol was in Union hands at this point, so literally there would be
no place to take the president if Booth was able to successfully capture him, as he
originally planned. Sometime between March 17 (the date of the attempt to kidnap
Lincoln on the way to the play at the Soldier’s Hospital) and April 14, Booth came up
with an alternate plan. Instead of kidnapping the president, Booth reasoned that the
best way he could help the dying Confederacy would be by throwing the Union
government into turmoil. His hatred for Lincoln and all that Lincoln stood for made
killing the president seem to Booth like a patriotic, honorable thing to do. He would
be killing a tyrant, just like Brutus had done to Julius Caesar, and providing the
essential spark that would resurrect the dying southern nation.
The plan called for a four pronged attack against the key figures of the US
government. He and his allies would kill the president, vice president, secretary of
state and possibly even General Grant. Booth learned that Lincoln planned on
attending a play at Ford’s Theater the night of April 14, Good Friday. Grant was to
be his guest. Booth himself would kill Lincoln and Grant; meanwhile Lewis Powell
would kill Secretary of State William Seward and George Atzerodt would kill Vice
President Andrew Johnson. If successful, Booth reasoned that this would throw the
US government into a constitutional crisis, hopefully paralyzing the government and
the Union armies across the South.
Booth began his day preparing for the assassination by meeting with Powell and
Atzerodt and David Herold and discussing last minute preparations. The plan called
for Herold to lead Powell to Seward’s home and then after Powell had killed the
secretary of state, Herold would lead him to a rendezvous point outside of the city in
southern Maryland. Atzerodt was to kill Johnson, he had rented a room in Johnson’s
hotel that was directly above Johnson’s suite. Booth would kill Lincoln and Grant
and then make his way to meet up with the others across the river in Maryland. The
group then planned on stopping by the Surratt Tavern to pick up the supplies
(pistols, binoculars, etc) left by Mary Surratt and then make their escape south to
Virginia.
Around 8:30PM, the Lincolns and Rathbones arrived at Ford’s Theater and
proceeded to take their seats in the presidential box that had been prepared for
them. When the president entered the box, the actors stopped and the band played
“hail to the chief” as the crowd applauded. The comedy then resumed as scheduled.
Booth had visited Ford’s Theater earlier in the day and had prepared for his
murderous business. It’s believed that he bored a small hole in the door leading into
the presidential box so he would be able to find Lincoln’s location before opening
the door. He also left a wooden brace he could use to wedge the outer door to the
box shut, blocking entrance to the box after he had secured entrance. Booth knew
the theater well, having acted there many times. He knew the staff and had complete
access to all sections of the building.
The plan called for the three attacks to occur simultaneously at 10:00pm. Powell
and Herold were successful in wounding the Secretary of State Seward, but the
wounds did not kill him. Just down the road, on Pennsylvania Ave, the Kirkwood
House Hotel was home to Vice President Andrew Johnson. George Atzerodt, the man
instructed to kill the vice president, was drinking nervously at the hotel bar. He got
liquored up instead of committing the murder. He would flee the city in fear, but
would take his place on the gallows with the other conspirators, once captured.
Booth arrived at Ford’s Theater that evening about 9:00. He knocked on the back
door and it was answered by Ned Spangler, a friend of Booth’s. Booth asks Spangler
to hold his horse, but he was busy so he had a stage-hand, Joseph Burroughs, hold
the horse. Booth then made his way under the stage across the building to make his
final preparations. Next, he exited the theater once more, went into the tavern next
to the theater and ordered a whiskey. While there he was recognized by a saloon
patron who said to him “I know you, you’re John Wilkes Booth, the famous actor.
You are NEVER going to be as popular as your grandfather” (also an actor). Booth,
insulted, responded saying “that may be true as an actor, but after this evening, I’ll
be the most famous person in the world.” After having a few drinks, Booth entered
the front lobby of the theater about 10:07 pm.
He walked up the stairs and made his way to the outer door of the presidential box.
He handed a card to Lincoln’s footman Charles Forbes and entered the outer
chamber of the box. He then used the leg of a music stand to bar the door shut.
Booth looked through a small hole in the inner door and saw where Lincoln was
sitting. He quietly opened the door and aimed the small derringer pistol loaded with
a .44-caliber lead ball at the back of the president’s head. Booth planned the shot to
coincide with the funniest line in the play, so many in the theater didn’t hear the
blast over the laughter. Soon, the line was delivered: “you sockdologizing old
mantrap!” Booth pulls the trigger and hits Lincoln in the head. Realizing the crowd’s
laughter was not enough to mask the gunshot; he draws his knife looking to make a
daring escape. Major Rathbone quickly rises to his feet to prevent the assassin from
escaping. Booth, now wild-eyed with adrenaline and rage, brought his knife down
on Rathbone, slashing his arm. Escaping Rathbone’s grasp, Booth shouts one word…
Freedom. He then leaps onto the stage in an attempt at a dramatic exit. However, as
he leaps, he catches his spur on some bunting hanging over the side of the
Presidential box. Still, he lands imperfectly on the stage, breaking his leg as he lands.
Gazing menacingly at the sunned crowd, Booth recognized for an instant that this is
his last performance on the American stage. Now is not the time to blow his lines. He
pauses for a moment, thrusts his bloody dagger into the air and yells “Sic Semper
tyrannis” (Virginia’s state motto: Thus always to tyrants). Before Booth leaves the
stage, he raises his voice again and says “The South is avenged.” Booth then hobbles
off the stage, and flees into the night.
Several doctors in the audience immediately responded and began attending to the
president. In one of the more bizarre events in history lead actress Laura Keene
pushes her way to the box and attempted to comfort the president, holding his head
in her lap. As the years past Laura kept onto the blood stained dress and even went
so far as to model it at times.
Meanwhile, doctors determined to move Lincoln from the chaos of Ford’s Theater to
a quieter place for the President’s last hours. A group of soldiers carried him
outside, where a crowd was forming. Pushing their way through the crowd, with
Lincoln’s lifeless countenance exposed to the shocked masses, the soldiers brought
the dying President to the boarding house across the street: Peterson’s Boarding
House.
Petersen House
Lincoln was brought inside the house and was laid diagonally across a bed that was
too short for his long body. The doctors attending to the president soon realized
that the head wound was mortal so they tried to make him as comfortable as
possible. Messengers were sent to the key cabinet officers in Washington and
Secretary of War Edwin M. Stanton soon arrived at the Petersen House. Mary Todd
Lincoln was in such a hysterical state that she was taken out of the room occupied
by the president and his doctors. Stanton set up a make-shift office in the Petersen
House and quickly took control of the situation. He immediately began to interview
witnesses of the events at Ford’s Theater and quickly learned that Booth was the
man who shot Lincoln. A massive manhunt began as Stanton and other government
officials worked to piece together what happened and who was responsible.
Stanton’s quick, and possibly extra-constitutional actions, minimized the chaos and
governmental disruption that Booth had hoped to cause.
The president died of his wounds nine hours after being shot, at 7:22 am the
morning of Saturday April 15. The president’s body was taken to the White House
and an autopsy was performed in one of the guest rooms on the second floor of the
west section of the building. Doctor’s even went so far as to measure the size of
Lincoln’s brain, to see if it was any bigger than a normal brain. A funeral service was
held on Wednesday April 19 in the East Room of the White House and was presided
over by Rev. Gurley.
After the assassination, the government seized the theatre (paying Ford $100,000)
and prohibited the space to be used for public amusement. The space was converted
into a public building during the war. On June 9, 1893, the front of the building
collapsed killing 22 clerks and injuring 68 others. Everyone then believed the
building was cursed, so the space was then used as a government warehouse.
Finally, in 1954, Congress approved funds to restore the theatre – it reopened in
1968 with John Brown’s Body. The theatre is currently under restoration, but is
typically an active theatre with a museum dedicated to Lincoln’s assassination in the
lower level.
J Edgar Hoover FBI Building
We are now in front of what people call the ugliest building in DC, the FBI building.
The building is named after J. Edgar Hoover, the founder and director of the FBI for
48 years until his death. Mr. Hoover hated the architectural design of the building
and refused permission for the building to be named after him, so it remained
nameless until two days after his death when President Nixon signed the public law.
Mr. Hoover was a very interesting man – he was rumored to be a homosexual
and/or cross-dresser, and after his death it’s been rumored that women’s clothing
was found in his closets. Mr. Hoover was a very powerful man and had “dirt” on just
about everyone, which is why no one was willing to question his close relationship
with his longtime associate, Clyde Tolson. Because of Hoover’s controversial legacy,
there have been several proposals to rename the FBI building, most recently in
2001.
The FBI was created in 1908, but did not receive the $60,000,000 for its own space
until 1961. By the time it was actually finished in 1974, the building cost
$126,108,000 – over $100,000,000 over budget because of the war, design changes,
and rising construction costs. The building can hold a little over 7,000 employees
and has a large courtyard or central core that the offices surround. The original
design for the building was to have shops in the lower level, like a CVS or Potbelly’s,
but the idea was rejected because of security reasons. The holes you see on the
exterior of the building were actually part of the architectural design. Because of the
economy, architects decided to create pourable concrete from crushed limestone, a
major contrast to the marble and granite we’re used to seeing along Pennsylvania
Avenue. The holes come from the removal of the metal tie molds after the concrete
was poured. On the south side of the building you’ll find the row of flags. There are
several representations of the US flag over several years (the fifth flag from 7th
Street is the Bicentennial).
Old Post Office Pavilion
The Old Post Office Pavilion was actually the first skyscraper in Washington, DC. It
was built to house the US Post Office along with the DC Post Office, making it the
largest and tallest government building at the time. It was also the first building to
have its own electric power plant, but was considered dated only 15 years later. It
now houses the Bells of Congress, a gift from England on our Nation’s Bicentennial.
You can ride an elevator to the top of the tower for a beautiful view of the city.
The United States Navy Memorial
As you look at the Memorial you’ll see the single statue named “The Lone Sailor”
representing all people who ever served, are serving now, or who are yet to serve in
the Navy and other sea services. He is over-looking a 100-foot diameter of the
world, depicted using different colored stones on the ground. The ceremonial plaza
is surrounded by sculptural panels depicting historical achievements of the Navy.
You can actually have a flag flown in someone’s honor or on a date that’s important
to you here at this flag-pole. The US Navy Band also performs here every Tuesday at
8pm (between Memorial and Labor Day).
The National Archives
The National Archives houses the nation’s important documents on the south side of
the building, like the Declaration of Independence, Constitution, Bill of Rights,
Louisiana Purchase, etc. The building also has exhibit and research rooms that
house things like census records, historical photographs, and maps and charts – all
open to the public. This is also where National Treasure with Nicholas Cage was
filmed – we’re standing exactly where the van was waiting for him when he stole the
Declaration of Independence!
The National Archives was designed by John Russell Pope, a very well-known
architect in DC. It’s actually standing over what used to be Tiber Creek. Over 8500
concrete piles were driven into the earth to support the massive structure of the
building. In 1933, President Herbert Hoover laid the cornerstone of the building.
Construction continued for two administrations and staff moved in November 1935.
There are two statues: the man reminds us to “Study the Past” and the woman
reminds us “What is Past is Prologue,” a quote from Shakespeare’s play “The
Tempest.”
On the Northwest side of the building, there is a memorial to President Franklin
Delano Roosevelt. While in office, FDR told his friend Supreme Court Justice Felix
Frankfurter that he didn’t want a large memorial, but something simple and the size
of his desk in the green plot of grass in front of the Archives building. And so, that
was FDR’s first memorial in DC.
National Archives Metro Station Stop
Just across the street in front of the Starbucks on December 9, 1969, ground was
broken for the Metro subway system. Several officials symbolically shoveled dirt
and smiled for cameras. The next day, bulldozers filled the ceremonial hole and
work started here.
The Temperance Fountain and the National Council of Negro Women Building
During the 1870s, Dr. Henry Cogswell and several prohibitionists put statues like
this across the nation. The fountain was designed to commemorate the Temperance
Movement – it provided clean drinking water, hoping to deter citizens from drinking
alcohol.
The Sears House has served many purposes over the years; it was a bank, a liquor
store, a drug store, and is the National Council of Negro Women building today. At
one time, Matthew Brady’s photography studio was here. Brady photographed
several famous people and later became a key recorder of the Civil War. Brady
captured Lincoln’s photograph more than 30 times – one of the portraits is the one
that was eventually used on the $5 bill and the penny.
National Gallery of Art – West Wing
The National Gallery of Art houses 12th through 20th Century American and
European art and is well-known for having a Leonardo daVinci, the Ginevra de’Benci
(or, Portrait of a Woman). In the 1920s Andrew Mellon pushed for a common spot
for the public to view art and ultimately created and helped finance construction of
the gallery. Like the archives, this was also designed by John Russell Pope. If you
look closely, the dome is similar to the Jefferson Memorial, also designed by Pope.
The building also has no windows, designed specifically to protect the art from
damaging UV rays.
Before the gallery, this is the site of the Baltimore and Potomac Railroad where our
20th president, James Garfield (from Ohio) was assassinated. Just four months after
taking office in 1881, Garfield was shot by Charles Guiteau, upset because he wasn’t
appointed the US consul in Paris. Garfield was walking through the station when he
was shot at close range by Guiteau. Doctors operated several times, looking for the
bullet they thought was lodged in his spine. When they couldn’t find the bullet,
Alexander Graham Bell created a metal detector for the purpose of finding the bullet
– the detector indicated metal, so the doctors continued to operate. Garfield was
bed-ridden in the White House with fevers and extreme pain for several months as
his health deteriorated. Eighty days after being shot, Garfield died of a massive heart
attack in September, exactly two months before his 50th birthday. When doctors
removed him from his bed, they realized he was on one of the first metal bed frames,
which was what was causing the metal detector to go off. Historians now believe
that the bullet was launched in Garfield’s lung and that he could have lived if he
were cared for by more capable doctors.
The Newseum
The Newseum is the world’s most interactive museum. Its new $450 million, sevenlevel museum opened on April 11th 2008 and has 14 major galleries, 15 theatres, 2
broadcast studios, and a 4-D time-travel experience. Its goal is to create a unique
experience combining five centuries of news history with up-to-the-date
technologies and innovation. On the front of building, you see the 74 foot-high
marble engraving of the First Amendment, the museums “mission statement.” They
say that the museum is dedicated to freedom of speech and freedom of press; just
the rights guaranteed to us in the First Amendment.
Here you can also find the largest chunk of the Berlin Wall outside of Germany on
display. In addition, there is a 3 story German Guard Tower taken from about a mile
away from Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin, Germany.
The Canadian Embassy
The Embassy of Canada is the only embassy on Pennsylvania Avenue between the
White House and the Capitol. Most embassies are north of Dupont Circle. Notice the
rotunda that has twelve columns, indicating the number of provinces and territories
in Canada when the embassy was built (now there are thirteen with the addition of
Nunavut). You can also see a waterfall below the columns that is meant to symbolize
Niagara falls. The columns just past the rotunda indicate the number of time-zones
in Canada.
National Gallery of Art – East Wing
The east wing of the National Gallery of Art houses modern and contemporary
pieces. It was added in the 1970s and designed by modern architect I.M. Pei (also
designed the Louvre Pyramid in Paris). As you look at the courtyard in between the
two wings, you’ll see a much smaller scale of the glass pyramids.
7th and Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
On June 1, 1889, the Potomac River flooded the streets of DC. The same flood had
just washed through Jamestown the day before, killing more than 2,000 people. DC
residents were so fascinated by everything that happened to Jamestown they
weren’t prepared for the water. Reporters said the streets imitated Venice and
people navigated boats down Pennsylvania for several days.
Pennsylvania Avenue
Pierre Charles L’Enfant, a Frenchman and aide to Washington, was the original
designer of the city. In his original plan, he called for Pennsylvania Avenue to be 160
feet wide – 80 feet for the roadway and 40 feet on each side for the sidewalks.
Today, the roadway is 107.5 feet wide; the south sidewalks are narrow to
accommodate the federal buildings, while the north sidewalks are wide with shops,
restaurants, and offices, giving Pennsylvania Avenue a more majestic frame as
L’Enfant envisioned.
Harvey’s Restaurant sat at 11th and Pennsylvania for many years – it was an
established oyster house that brought clams and oysters in by the cartload for
soldiers to line up and buy them. It is said that Lincoln saw the lines and became so
interested that he arranged for a visit to Harvey’s. Ralph Waldo Emerson, John
Burroughs, Walt Whitman, Andrew Johnson, and General Grant also frequented the
restaurant.
The Federal Trade Commission was the last addition to Federal Triangle. The east
and west sides of the building are flanked by a pair of statues by Michael Lantz
(unveiled in 1942). The statues symbolize “Man Controlling Trade” – (the powerful,
muscular men taming wild rearing stallions).
4th and Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
We’re now in front of the federal courthouse, but this was actually the first site of
DC’s Chinatown. In 1935 the government started buying out the surrounding pieces
of land, so Chinatown packed up and moved as a whole to the H Street area.
Department of Labor
The Department of Labor is named after the first-ever female cabinet member,
Frances Perkins. She served as the Secretary of Labor under Franklin Delano
Roosevelt (1933-1944).
Civil War Sailors Statue
The white marble Peace Monument was erected in 1877-1878 to commemorate the
naval deaths at sea during the Civil War. The 44-foot-high monument was designed
by Franklin Simmons, a man known for creating many statues in the National
Statuary Hall in the Capitol.
At the top of the monument, facing west, stand two classically robed female figures.
Grief holds her covered face against the shoulder of History and weeps in mourning.
History holds a stylus and a tablet that was inscribed "They died that their country
might live." Below Grief and History, another life-size classical female figure
represents Victory, holding high a laurel wreath and carrying an oak branch,
signifying strength. Below her are the infant Mars, the god of war, and the infant
Neptune, god of the sea. Facing the Capitol is Peace, a classical figure draped from
the waist down and holding an olive sprig. Below her are symbols of peace and
industry.
Inscribed in the memorial is the line:"In memory of the officers, seamen and
marines of the United States Navy who fell in defense of the Union and liberty of
their country, 1861-1865," this sculptural group has also been called the Naval
Monument.
The Sumner House
(The Summer House, a red brick structure set into the sloping hillside of the West
Front lawn among the paths that lead from Pennsylvania Avenue to the Senate side of
the Capitol, has offered rest and shelter to travelers for over a century.)
The Summer House was begun in 1879 and completed in late 1880 or early 1881 by
landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted. He included the Summer House in
response to complaints that visitors to the Capitol could find no water nor any place
to rest on their journey. In addition, he designed it as a setting for decorative
vegetation.
Olmsted devoted much thought to the Summer House. He was concerned that the
structure not intrude upon the landscape, but he was also careful to ensure that it
was sufficiently public to prevent its use for improper purposes.
Senate Office Buildings
As we begin our way up Capitol Hill, we are going to be passing the offices of the
Senate. These buildings house the actual offices where Senators and their staff work
day-to-day. Many of these offices were built around the turn of the century as
Washington, DC was become more crowded every day. Previously, Senators and
Representatives would rent or borrow space to work.
The first of these office buildings is this Russell Senate Office Building. Built between
1903 and 1908 it is the oldest of the Senate buildings. It is now connected, like
many of the other offices on the Hill, to the Capitol by underground passages. The
Russell, in particular has its own Subway designed by Disney Imagineers! It was
originally called the Old Senate Office Building until 1972, just after Senator Richard
Russell (D-GA) retired after 40 years of service. The building was also home to the
offices of five would-be presidents: Warren Harding, Harry Truman, Jack Kennedy,
Lyndon Johnson, and Richard Nixon.
Next, there is Dirksen Senate Office Building, the second of three office buildings
constructed for the United States Senate. It was built for the television era, featuring
larger public committee rooms to accommodate the new TV journalists. First
known, creatively, as the new Senate office building, it was renamed in 1972 to
honor Illinois Republican Everett Dirksen. Known for his great oratory, Dirksen
actually served in the house for 18 years even winning a Grammy award for an
album of his speeches.
Finally, we have the Hart Senate Office Building, built in 1982. Its named after
Senator Phillip Hart (a Michigan Democrat). He was known by his colleagues so
much for his political integrity; they named this building after him before died of a
terminal illness. Above its main entrance, it reads: “A man of incorruptible integrity
and personal courage strengthened by inner grace and outer gentleness…. He
advanced the cause of human justice, promoted the welfare of the common man and
improved the quality of life…. His humility and ethics earned him his place as the
conscience of the Senate.”
The Capitol Building
The Capitol Building is the 2nd oldest public building in Washington, DC. The
cornerstone was laid in 1793 by George Washington, but because of on-going
construction and renovations historians don’t actually know where the original
cornerstone is. Construction spanned for almost 43 years and through one war. It
houses the chambers of the House of Representatives (south wing) and the Senate
(north wing). There was a competition to find the chief architect and the winning
design was submitted late by Dr. William Thornton.
During the War of 1812, British troops set fire to the Capitol on August 24, 1814.
Thanks to a major rainstorm, the structure of the building was saved and
construction continued. Because the nation was rapidly expanding, the two wings
were added in the 1850s for the Senate and the House. At that time the capitol had a
shallow dome made of wood and copper - in 1856, the old dome was replaced by a
cast-iron dome and topped with the Statue of Freedom in 1863.
The bronze statue stands at 19 ½ feet, the tallest statue in DC weighing
approximately 15,000 pounds. Thomas Crawford designed the model of the statue
in Rome – it was shipped to the US in six crates, but because of the crates weight, the
ships began to leak, causing the model to be stored for almost a year before proper
transportation could be arranged. The model arrived in 1859 and was cast by a local
bronze foundry.
You can take guided tours of the Capitol (Monday through Saturday) by getting
tickets from the Visitors Center on the East Side of the building. The tour will take
you through the decorated Rotunda, Statuary Hall, and original Supreme Court
chambers.
Extra Info on the Capitol:
On September 18, 1793, George Washington laid the U.S. Capitol cornerstone at the
southeast corner of its foundation to mark the building of the nation's most
symbolically important and architecturally impressive building. It was laid with
great pomp and celebration in a Masonic ceremony.
The Capitol is the home of the U.S. Congress—the House of Representatives and the
Senate. The competition for its design was won by Dr. William Thornton, a gifted
amateur architect who had studied medicine but rarely practiced as a doctor.
Thornton placed a central shallow domed rotunda between the Senate (north) and
House (south) wings.
The construction preceded slowly under a succession of architects, including
Stephen Hallet (1793), George Hadfield (1795-1798) and James Hoban (17981802), architect of the White House, who completed the Senate wing in 1800.
Benjamin Henry Latrobe was hired in 1803; by 1811 he had renovated the Senate
wing and completed the House wing. In 1814, British troops set fire to the Capitol as
well as the White House and other District buildings during the War of 1812.
Fortunately, a rainstorm prevented the Capitol’s complete destruction, and in the
following year Latrobe began its reconstruction and redesign. Charles Bulfinch, the
brilliant Boston architect who succeeded Latrobe in 1818, completed the building in
1826 with only slight modifications of Latrobe's interior plan.
Extending the Building for a Growing Congress
Although the Capitol was considered completed in 1826, by 1850 the need to
enlarge the building became evident following the enormous territorial growth of
the nation. With a rapidly expanding Congress it was obvious that the building was
too small.
In 1850, Senator Jefferson Davis introduced an appropriation bill to enlarge the
Capitol. President Millard Fillmore selected architect Thomas U. Walter to construct
large northern and southern wings containing new legislative chambers. As work
progressed, Walter also designed a new cast-iron dome to better suit the enlarged
building. By 1868 the larger building was completed, and the grounds were
subsequently enlarged.
The nation and its government, however, continued to grow, and more space was
needed. In 1897 the Library of Congress moved out of the Capitol into its own
building, making space for new committee rooms. In the 20th century, separate
buildings were constructed to provide offices and committee rooms for the House
and Senate. The Supreme Court moved into its own building in 1935. Today’s
Capitol complex includes the Capitol, six major House and Senate buildings, three
Library of Congress buildings, the Supreme Court Building, the U.S. Botanic Garden,
and other facilities. In 1958–1962 the east central front of the Capitol was extended
to add 90 new rooms.
The Capitol has continued to grow. In the late 20th century, as the number of visitors
grew, Congress recognized the need for better visitor amenities and accessibility,
improved safety and security, and better opportunities for citizens to learn about
their Congress and Capitol. The construction of the new Capitol Visitor Center began
in 2001. Opening in 2008, the Capitol Visitor Center fulfills the need as a place for
visitors to gather and view exhibitions and films, participate in guided tours and
special events, greet their members of Congress, and see up close their government
at work.
The Architecture and Decoration
The heart of the Capitol is the Rotunda, a 96-foot-diameter circular hall surmounted
by the Capitol’s inner dome. Visible through the eye of the dome, 180 feet above the
floor, is a massive fresco painted by Italian artist Constantino Brumidi. This mural,
entitled The Apotheosis of George Washington, consists of a portrait of the nation’s
first president rising to the heavens flanked by the allegorical figures of
Liberty/Authority and Victory/Fame. Brumidi also designed and started painting
the frieze at the top of the Rotunda walls depicting events in American history.
The Rotunda is the major stop on the Capitol tour. National Statuary Hall was
originally the Hall of the House of Representatives, but in 1864, after the current
House Chamber was built, it was dedicated to the display of statues. Each state was
invited to contribute two statues to honor individuals of historical significance.
There are now one hundred statues in the collection, which is displayed throughout
the Capitol and the Capitol Visitor Center. The Old Supreme Court Chamber has been
restored to its 19th-century appearance. The Crypt, directly below the Rotunda,
holds statues donated by the original thirteen states.
The Nation’s Stage
The U.S. Capitol is our national stage. Today the process of seeking solutions to the
nation's problems and unleashing the nation's possibilities unfolds here. The
activity that goes on in this building is the center of our experiment in political
freedom. The Capitol is the scene of some of the nation's most important public
events, from solemn memorial ceremonies to exciting July Fourth concerts. In the
Rotunda, hushed mourners have honored presidents and others who have lain
beneath the magnificent dome. Congressional gold medals are awarded here to
outstanding individuals. And, in the shadow of the dome, the grounds are the
nation's most public platform. From lone orators to masses of demonstrators,
people come here to be heard. No other building so strongly symbolizes the freedom
to speak one's mind. Today the Capitol reigns as a monument to freedom and a
reminder of the power of the people.
The Supreme Court
Here we have the Supreme Court building, the home of the third branch of the U.S.
Federal Government, the Judicial Branch. Yet surprisingly, despite its role as a
coequal branch of government, the Supreme Court was not provided with a building
of its own until 1935, the 146th year of its existence.
Initially, the Court met in the Merchants Exchange Building in New York City. When
the National Capital moved to Philadelphia in 1790, the Court moved with it,
establishing Chambers first in the State House (Independence Hall) and later in the
City Hall.
When the Federal Government moved again, in 1800, to the permanent Capital,
Washington, the District of Columbia, the Court again moved with it. Since no
provision had been made for a Supreme Court Building, Congress lent the Court
space in the new Capitol Building. The Court was to change its meeting place a half
dozen times within the Capitol. Additionally, the Court convened for a short period
in a private house after the British set fire to the Capitol during the War of 1812.
Following this episode, the Court returned to the Capitol and met from 1819 to 1860
in a chamber now restored as the “Old Supreme Court Chamber.” Then from 1860
until 1935, the Court sat in what is now known as the “Old Senate Chamber.”
Finally in 1929, Chief Justice William Howard Taft, who had been President of the
United States from 1909 to 1913, persuaded Congress to end this arrangement and
authorize the construction of a permanent home for the Court. Architect Cass Gilbert
was charged by Chief Justice Taft to design “a building of dignity and importance
suitable for its use as the permanent home of the Supreme Court of the United
States.” Neither Taft nor Gilbert survived to see the Supreme Court Building
completed. The construction, begun in 1932, was completed in 1935, when the
Court was finally able to occupy its own building.
The Court Building cost less than the $9,740,000 Congress authorized for its
construction. Not only was the final and complete cost of the building within the
appropriation, but all furnishings were also procured, even though planners had
initially expected that the project would require additional appropriations. Upon
completion of the project, $94,000 was returned to the Treasury. One of the few
projects completed by the U.S. Government under Budget!
The court building even includes a gym with a full-sized basketball court on the very
top floor, nicknamed “the highest court in the land.” Additionally, in 2002 a wild fox
actually managed its way into the building. Even though it was seen on video
surveillance, it eluded capture for one day, causing the court to close.
The Library of Congress
The Library of Congress was established by an act of Congress in 1800 when
President John Adams signed a bill providing for the transfer of the seat of
government from Philadelphia to the new capital city of Washington. The legislation
described a reference library for Congress only, containing "such books as may be
necessary for the use of Congress - and for putting up a suitable apartment for
containing them therein…"
Established with $5,000 appropriated by the legislation, the original library was
housed in the new Capitol until August 1814, when invading British troops set fire
to the Capitol Building, burning and pillaging the contents of the small library.
Within a month, retired President Thomas Jefferson offered his personal library as a
replacement. Jefferson had spent 50 years accumulating books, "putting by
everything which related to America, and indeed whatever was rare and valuable in
every science"; his library was considered to be one of the finest in the United
States. In offering his collection to Congress, Jefferson anticipated controversy over
the nature of his collection, which included books in foreign languages and volumes
of philosophy, science, literature, and other topics not normally viewed as part of a
legislative library. He wrote, "I do not know that it contains any branch of science
which Congress would wish to exclude from their collection; there is, in fact, no
subject to which a Member of Congress may not have occasion to refer."
In January 1815, Congress accepted Jefferson's offer, appropriating $23,950 for his
6,487 books, and the foundation was laid for a great national library.
Ainsworth Rand Spofford, Librarian of Congress from 1864 to 1897, applied
Jefferson's philosophy on a grand scale and built the Library into a national
institution. Spofford was responsible for the copyright law of 1870, which required
all copyright applicants to send to the Library two copies of their work. This
resulted in a flood of books, pamphlets, maps, music, prints, and photographs.
Facing a shortage of shelf space at the Capitol, Spofford convinced Congress of the
need for a new building, and in 1873 Congress authorized a competition to design
plans for the new Library.
In 1886, after many proposals and much controversy, Congress authorized
construction of a new Library building in the style of the Italian Renaissance. When
the Library of Congress building opened its doors to the public on November 1,
1897, it was hailed as a glorious national monument and "the largest, the costliest,
and the safest" library building in the world.
Today's Library of Congress is an unparalleled world resource. The collection of
more than 130 million items includes more than 29 million cataloged books and
other print materials in 460 languages; more than 58 million manuscripts; the
largest rare book collection in North America; and the world's largest collection of
legal materials, films, maps, sheet music and sound recordings.
House of Representatives Office Buildings
The Cannon House Office Building, completed in 1908, is the oldest congressional
office building as well as a significant example of the Beaux Arts style of
architecture. The Cannon Building was occupied during the 60th Congress in
January 1908. By 1913, however, the House had outgrown the available office space,
and fifty-one rooms were added to the original structure by raising the roof and
constructing a fifth floor. In 1962 the building was named for former Speaker Joseph
Gurney Cannon (R-IL). Cannon was well known for transforming the Speaker of the
House to one of the most important roles in American Government. He used his
authority broadly to prevent bills from being discussed on the House floor,
effectively ending debates on certain issues. Then, in March of 1910, Cannon’s
detractors attempted a coup to remove him from power. They gathered in the House
Chamber at a time when few Cannon supporters were present, to begin a quorum to
effectively remove him from power. Without enough votes to save Cannon’s seat,
one of his allies initiated a filibuster to prevent the vote from occurring until enough
Cannon allies were present. The filibuster lasted 26 hours. Why so long? It just so
happened that the attempted overthrown occurred on St. Patrick’s Day and many of
Cannon’s supporters were Irish!!
Next, we have the Longworth House Office Building. Completed in the spring of
1933, the Longworth is the second of three office buildings constructed for the
United States House of Representatives.
When the Longworth Building was completed, it contained 251 congressional suites,
5 large committee rooms, 7 small committee rooms, and a large assembly room now
used by the Ways and Means Committee. It was in this room, which seats 450
persons, that the House of Representatives met in 1949 and 1950 while its chamber
in the Capitol was being remodeled. The building was named in 1962 in honor of
Nicholas Longworth (R-OH), who served as Speaker of the House of Representatives
throughout the late 1920s. Longworth was popular on both sides of the aisle for his
Teddy Roosevelt-esque progressive ideology appealing to moderates everywhere.
One historian sums up Longworth: "Debonair and aristocratic, given to wearing
spats and carrying a gold-headed cane, he was anything but a typical politician. He
was perpetually cheerful, quick with a joke or witty retort, and unfailingly friendly.
He seemed never to have a care and made hard decisions with such ease and
detachment that some people wondered if anything at all really mattered to him."
Known for having a bald, shiney head… a House colleague once ran his hand over his
head and said “Nice and smooth. Feels just like my wife's bottom." He quickly
returned, “it does, doesn’t it?”
Finally, we have the Rayburn House Office Building, completed in 1965. Its named
after Speaker Sam Rayburn, who, in 1955, introduced the bill appropriating a Third
House Office Building.
On either side of the main entrance to the building stand two ten-foot marble
statues by C. Paul Jennewein, Spirit of Justice and Majesty of Law. The building,
finished in 1965 was name after Sam Rayburn (D-TX), who served as Speaker of the
House for various times throughout the 40s, 50s, and into the early 60s. He was
famous for giving us the saying: "Any jackass can kick a barn down, but it takes a
carpenter to build one;" referring to anytime someone critiques the party in power
without a plan to rebuild. He was also well-known in DC for holding his after hours
“Board of Education” meetings. Here, he would invite powerful committee chairmen
for poker, bourbon, and frank, off the record discussions on political issues. He alone
would decide who would be invited to each meeting of the Board and would kick
people out at will.
US Botanical Gardens
The United States Botanic Garden traces its beginning to 1816, when the
constitution of the Columbian Institute for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences in
Washington, D.C., proposed the creation of a botanic garden to collect, grow, and
distribute plants of this and other countries that might contribute to the welfare of
the American people. The Institute's garden was established by Congress in 1820 to
the west of the Capitol Grounds, essentially where the reflecting pool is today.
In 1842, the idea of a national botanic garden was reinvigorated when the return of
the United States Exploring Expedition to the South Seas (the Wilkes Expedition)
brought to Washington a collection of living plants from around the globe. Plants
taken from this expedition are still on display today (or at least their offspring!)
The Garden was moved to its present location in 1933. Here, you can find its most
famous plant: the corpse plant. The Corpse Plant is this flower that blooms only
once every 12 years. When it does, it emits this terrible, disgusting odor; which, for
whatever reasons, attracts people from around the country.
Garfield Statue
Garfield (1831-1881) served with distinction in the Union Army during the Civil
War. He left the army on his election to the U.S. House of Representatives in 1863.
He was later nominated as the Republican candidate for the Presidency in 1880 and
won (by only 10,000 votes) over Civil War General Winfield Scott Hancock. At the
same time, he was serving in the House of Representatives, the citizens of Ohio
elected him to the Senate, while the nation elected him President. This means, at one
point Garfield was president-elect, senator-elect, and member of the House of
Representatives. Garfield was even a licensed and ordained minister in Ohio who
knew three languages fluently. He was known to do a trick at parties where he
wrote a sentence in Greek with his right hand, a sentence in Latin with his left, and
speak phrases in German at the same time!
Sworn into office in March 1881, he immediately began handing out government
positions to supporters. One such supporter was Charles Guiteau who handed out
flyers to prospective voters in the election of 1880. Feeling he deserved the
ambassadorship to France for handing out the flyers, Guiteau went to the White
House to ask the President personally. Garfield essentially laughed him out of the
White House. Feeling insulted, Guiteau determined he should stalk and kill Garfield.
This was with the hope that the Chester Arthur, the Vice President, would be so
happy to become President, that he reward him with the job. Obviously, it didn’t
work out as planned
(Garfield Assassination Story: To be done here or at the NGA-West Building) On July
2nd, 1881, Garfield was walking into the Baltimore and Pacific Railroad station
(which used to be right over there, near what is today, the National Gallery of Art),
when Guiteau realized his opportunity. Guiteau stands up and approaches Garifield.
He shoots the President twice in the chest. Garfield miraculously survives though.
He is brought back to the White House to recover as doctors plan to pull the bullets
out of chest. This is when the problems really start as these doctors were not the
best. They were unsuccessful finding the bullet and in the process caused terrible
infections. They even brought in Alexander Graham Bell, the inventor of the
telephone, to help. He invented a primitive metal detector to be used in the task.
However, the metal detector kept going off and nobody could figure out why. Soon,
Garfield succumbed to the infection in early September, 79 days after he was shot. It
was when they lifted him off the bed that they realized why the metal detector was
going off: he was sleeping on a metal spring mattress! Doctors later revealed that
they probably could have left the bullets inside him and he would have survived his
term (maybe even two terms).
Grant Statue
Here we stand near the foot of the Ulysses S. Grant Memorial. Grant was both a
famous general for the United States during the Civil War as well as President of the
U.S. following the war.
Both during and after the civil war his favorite horse was named “Jeff Davis” after
the president of the confederate states. He was also known as quiet the tobacco
smoker, throughout his life. He first smoked a pipe but then randomly switched to
cigars. So, people found out about his love for cigars and sent them by the tons to the
general. He would occasionally pass them out to enlisted men under his command to
keep morale up. For the most part, though, he smoked them himself: up to twenty or
more a day! It came as no surprise that his cause of death was lung cancer.
He was even asked by Mark Twain to write his biography. Twain, upon reading
many of his war letters was impressed by Grant’s writing style. After he left office,
Grant had squandered much of his life savings in poor investments. Desperate to
provide for his families’ well being, Grant accepted Twains offer. Grant actually got
$200,000 in the first royalty check, sadly receiving the check just days after his
death. The book, eventually earned Grant’s family over a half million dollars (a
fortune in the late 19th century)!
His monument's statue faces west toward the Lincoln Memorial honoring Grant's
wartime president, Abraham Lincoln. The Grant Memorial includes the second
largest equestrian statue in the United States and the third largest in the world
(after the statue of Mexican conquistador Don Juan de Onate, in El Paso, Texas, and
the monument to Italy's King Victor Emanuel in Rome).
The Grant Memorial, begun in 1902 as the largest ever commissioned by Congress at
the time, was created by sculptor Henry Shrady and architect William Casey. Shrady
spent 20 years of his life working on the memorial and died, stressed and
overworked, two weeks before its dedication in 1922. The platform for the
monument, made of Vermont marble, is 252 feet long and 71 feet wide and is
divided into three sections. The tall, middle section features a 10,700 pound, 17foot-2-inch high equestrian statue depicting Grant aboard his war horse Cincinnati
on a 22 1/2-foot high marble pedestal. Grant is flanked, on either side, by fighting
Union Artillery and Cavalry groups. Surrounding the main pedestal are four shorter
pedestals, each supporting a bronze lion in repose guarding both the United States
flag and the flags of the Army. The memorial was the largest bronze sculpture cast in
the United States at that time.
National Museum of the American Indian
The National Museum of the American Indian is the newest museum added to the
National Mall in September 2004. The museum covers Native Americans from
North, Central, and South America. The building is designed to look like sandstone
cliffs of the southwest desert and also has no corners to keep consistent with the
culture. Some American Indian tribes believed that spirits hide in corners, which
helps explain their wide use of tee pees. As we pass, be sure to look for the garden,
which features traditional crops like corn and beans.
National Air and Space Museum
The National Air and Space Museum is the most popular Smithsonian. The museum
houses the Spirit of St. Louis, the plane Charles Lindbergh used to fly across the
Atlantic in May 1927. The Wright Flyer, the first successful airplane ever developed
is also on display. Newer and bigger airplanes like the Concorde and the Space
Shuttle on display at the new annex near Dulles airport. The American History
Museum is closed for renovation until the fall, so the Smithsonian has moved a few
exhibits over here. You can see Kermit the Frog, Dorothy’s slippers, President
Lincoln’s top hat, Lewis and Clark’s compass, Thomas Jefferson’s bible, and Edison’s
light bulb.
Hirshhorn Museum
The museum houses international modern and contemporary art. It’s been nicknamed the donut because of its shape! This is the original site of the Army Medical
Museum. The museum was known for having preserved flesh and bones, shocking
tourists. When the museum was torn down in 1968 to make way for the Hirshhorn,
the collections were moved to Walter Reed Army Medical Hospital.
The National Mall
The National Mall is the centerpiece of Pierre Charles L’Enfant’s original design for
the Federal City. He hoped to have large grassy areas for people to enjoy with a
central location for federal buildings.
The Smithsonian was created in 1846 and drastically expanded the National Mall. A
British scientist named James Smithson founded the Smithsonian with a $508,000
donation --- after his death. Smithson had never been to the US and the motive for
his gift is to this day unknown. Smithson was originally buried in Genoa, Italy, but
was moved to the US in 1904. He now rests in a tomb in the Smithsonian Institution
Castle – his sarcophagus displays that he was 75 when he died, when in reality he
was only 64.
Smithson wrote his will three years before he died, giving his estate to his nephew,
Henry James Hungerford. The will stated that if his nephew died without an heir the
money would go to the US to found the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment
for the increase and diffusion of knowledge.”
The National Museum of Natural History
The National Museum of Natural History is dedicated to understanding the natural
world and our place in it. They have the Hope Diamond, which is 45 ½ carats. You
can find a 5 ton African elephant in the main rotunda, the Hall of Mammals, the
Insect Zoo, which is ironically sponsored by Orkin (the Bug Killers). The newest
exhibit is Butterflies and Plants: Partners in Evolution. Finally, there is an IMAX
theatre, which shows a variety of films every day that relate to the current exhibits.
Federal Triangle
Federal Triangle was built between 1928 and 1938 and extends from 6th Avenue to
15th Street on Pennsylvania Avenue. It is the largest combination of federal buildings
planned as a unit the government has ever attempted. The triangle fills about 74
acres of triangular ground between Pennsylvania and Constitution Avenues.
The Department of Justice, the IRS, Environmental Protection Agency, and the
Department of Commerce are all part of the triangle, all of which we’ll be riding by
in the next few minutes.
The National Museum of American History
The American History is home to many artifacts that, as you may guess, chronicle
American History. It is aptly called “America’s attic” for this very reason. There, you
can find Lincoln’s top hat… the same one worn the night he was assassinated. You
can find the first-ladies inaugural gowns. There is also a pop culture exhibit that
houses Kermit the Frog, Dorothy’s red slippers from the Wizard of Oz, Seinfeld’s
puffy shirt, and Archie Bunker’s chair from “All in the Family.”
Most famously, however, the museum holds one of the oldest American flags
existing today: the Star Spangled Banner. Often mistaken for the very first American
flag or the flag sowed by Betsy Ross, it was actually the flag that inspired Francis
Scott Key to write the national anthem to our country. Key was a lawyer here in
Washington, DC when he was imprisoned by the British during the war of 1812.
From his prison ship, he had a view of one of the few American victories in that war
that took place just outside Baltimore. This flag was flying above Ft. McHenry and
Key noticed that it was still flying after a major bombing by the British. So moved by
the site “in dawn’s early light,” that he penned an inspirational poem to
commemorate the event. The poem propelled him to national celebrity and soon
after the poem was put to song, an old British drinking song, in fact. This became the
National Anthem of the United States and it all started with the flag that is now in
this museum.
Corner of 15th and Constitution – The Bullfinch Gatehouses
This small building was designed by Charles Bullfinch and served as a guardhouse
on the grounds of the Capitol Building. In the 19th Century, one of the biggest
security concerns was the livestock that grazed on the mall. Cows, sheep and pigs
would migrate to Capitol Hill and distract/bother Congress.
The Washington Monument
The Washington Monument is 555 ½ feet tall – the tallest free-standing masonry
structure in the world. The monument weighs approximately 82,000 tons. At the
base of the monument, the stones are 15 feet thick and get smaller as they go up –
the stones are only 18 inches thick at the top. Construction started in July of 1848
and was worked on until 1854 when donations ran out. Construction resumed in
1879, but the designer was unable to find the same quarry stone, which is why the
bottom is a shade darker than the top. The monument was finally completed in 1884
and dedicated the next year. It’s said that men were invited to ride the steampowered elevator that was used to haul materials during construction to the top.
However, it was considered unsafe for women and children, so they had the
privilege of climbing the 893 steps to the top! Thankfully, the monument has been
renovated and everyone is invited to ride the elevator to the observation deck for a
great view of the city.
When the cornerstone was laid over 20,000 people came out to witness the event.
The cornerstone itself weighed 24,000 pounds and contained a zinc box that had
plans for the monument, a bible, coins, newspapers of the day, and copies of the US
Constitution and Declaration of Independence.
In 1880, it’s said that a cat named Steve Brodie survived a 160 foot fall from the
unfinished Washington Monument. Apparently, the cat had climbed the scaffolding
and fallen asleep. When the construction workers reported to work in the morning,
they startled the cat, causing it to leap from the 16-story tower. Witnesses said the
cat spread out its paws, flattened its body, and glided like a flying squirrel until it hit
the ground on all fours. After tumbling a few times, it headed home. However, on its
way, people say the cat was chased down and killed by a neighborhood dog, ending
his incredible good luck.
In 1908, Washington Senators catcher Gabby Street became the first person to catch
a baseball thrown from the top of the monument.
Tickets to ride the elevator to the top are limited and will sell out nearly everyday. It
is suggested that you show up to the memorial by 8:30a to secure a spot on one of
the day’s tours. Or, half of the available tickets for the days tours are available online
at the National Park Service website. But, these can sell out weeks, if not months, in
advance.
Jefferson Memorial
The Jefferson Memorial was dedicated in 1943 to our country’s third President and
drafter of the Declaration of Independence. Franklin Roosevelt was the President
responsible for the creation of the Memorial and he was also responsible for some of
the controversy surrounding it. In 1912, the City of Tokyo, Japan, donated the U.S.
Government the famous Cherry Trees that line the Tidal Basin near the memorial,
possibly as a thanks for our part in ending the Russo-Japanese War. When they were
constructing the memorial in the late 1930s, FDR ordered some of the trees to be
removed so that he could keep an eye on construction. Well the idea of disturbing
the trees was considered blasphemy at the time so some prominent ladies of
Washington came down and chained themselves to trees. So, to solve this problem,
Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes came up with a simple scheme. As the story
goes, he sent the ladies tea and coffee knowing they would eventually need to use
the bathroom. When they could no longer ‘postpone the inevitable,’ workers would
come in and knock the trees down. Just a few years later, in the days following the
bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, guards actually had to be called in to prevent
angry citizens from cutting the trees down in anger.
The Memorial itself features a 19 foot tall, 10,000 lb., bronze statue of Jefferson
standing a lot more straight than he was known. Many of his former colleagues
noted that, though he was taller than George Washington, nobody would ever know
it because of his poor posture. Thomas Jefferson is facing out over the Tidal Basin,
not to the White House as many believe, but to the Treasury Department. It is said
he is looking there to keep an eye on his greatest rival Alexander Hamilton, who’s
statue is standing just outside the south entrance of the Treasury Department. The
statue actually wasn’t installed until 1947 due to material shortages during World
War II.
The Memorial was designed by John Russell Pope, a prominent architect in DC who
designed the National Archives, the National Gallery of Art and the Daughters of the
American Revolution Constitution Hall. He designed the memorial with the dome, as
a way to mirror Jefferson's architectural preferences as exhibited by his home in
Monticello, VA. It sits on a stretch of land dredged out of the Potomac River, which
originally flooded closer to the Washington Monument.
Inside there are inscriptions taken from some of Jefferson’s most famous writings
including the Declaration of Independence, the Bill Establishing Religious Freedom
1777, and some of his letters. Just below the ceiling there is one of his most famous
quotes: “I have sworn upon the altar of God eternal hostility against every form of
tyranny over the mind of man.”
George Mason Memorial
George Mason is often called the ‘forgotten Founder’ because he was so
instrumental in the fight for Independence and the founding of the United States yet
most people don’t really know who he was. He wrote the Virginia Declaration of
Rights which inspired the Declaration of Independence and the Bill of Rights. This
memorial opened in 2002 and along with the gardens around it features a large
statue of Mason reclining on a bench on the far end.
FDR Memorial
We are now outside the FDR Memorial, which was built here in 1997. Originally, the
Memorial was just a single block of marble that sat and continues to sit at the
northwest corner of the National Archives. While he was President, Roosevelt told
Supreme Court Justice Felix Frankfurter that he wanted a memorial no larger than
the size of his desk. Franklin Roosevelt was our countries longest serving president,
being elected to four terms (now you can be only elected to two terms). He did
suddenly, however, on April 12, 1945 of polio, 80 years almost to the day of
Lincoln’s death. He did just as the United States was on the verge of winning World
War II with Hitler cowering in a bunker somewhere in Germany.
The memorial that was built just over 50 years from his death is split into four
rooms to represent his four terms in office. The first plaza has a famous and
controversial statue of Roosevelt in his wheelchair. The statue that cost $1.5 million
to make was a lightening rod for controversy as it was one of the first depictions of
FDR in a wheelchair. FDR had spent much of his presidency hiding his paralysis
often faking his ability to walk by leaning on the shoulder of a guard and using all his
strength in his upper body to move his legs in a walking motion. This was extremely
painful for him, but in a time of such turmoil (Great Depression, World War II), he
thought the country would want a strong leader. When it came time to build this
statue, many handicap American’s insisted he should be depicted this way, while
others thought that he spent so much time hiding it, we should honor his wish. In
the end, President Clinton put a stop to the fracas and commissioned the statue as
you see it today.
Inside, there are also statues of his dog the first lady, depictions of the war, and the
bread lines during the Great Depression. There is a small statue of Roosevelt’s
famous dog Fala who the Secret Service dubbed “The Informer” because when FDR
left let him out to do his business, it signified the nearby presence of the President.
There are also five water areas in the memorial: a single large drop representing the
economic crash leading to the Great Depression, multiple stair-step drops
representing Tennessee Valley Authority dam building project, the chaotic falls
representing World War II, a still pool marking Roosevelt’s death, and a wide array
combining all the other waterfalls creating a retrospective of Roosevelt’s
presidency.
The Waterfront: Air Force Memorial, Lee House, Arlington Cemetery, Memorial Bridge
We now stand at the edge of the Potomac River looking our into Arlington County
Virginia. It’s the fourth largest river on the east coast and actually used to run over
where we are standing, almost up to the Washington Monument. It would even flood
to just south of the White House at some points. However, over time, it gradually
receded and with the help of the construction of the Tidal Basin and other dredging
projects, the Potomac became a lot more contained. This is why the area we are
traveling on now is called Potomac Park, because about 100 years ago, it was under
the Potomac River!
We can also see the Air Force Memorial which was dedicated in its location across
the parking lot from the Pentagon in 2006. It features three stainless steel spires
extending into the air up to 270 feet high. If you have a chance to go over there, it’s
definitely worth a visit because it will give you a great view of the city and the
Pentagon. There are also a number of statues including four 8 foot tall statues
featuring an Air Force Honor Guard.
We can also see one of Arlington Cemetery's most well known sites, the Lee House.
It was actually the site of some of the first action of the Civil War when Union
Soldiers crossed the river on the night on May 23rd 1861 to seize the house and the
land around it. The house belonged to Robert E. Lee (Confederate General) at the
time and with it occupying such high territory, the Union army feared it could be a
prime location for Confederate artillery. By 1864, the Union soldiers occupying the
house began to bury their dead in the land surrounding it. By the end of the war
there were 16,000 dead buried near the house including over 2,000 in Mary Lee’s
rose garden. Once the war ended, Quartermaster General of the Army, Montgomery
Meigs (whose son was killed in the Civil War), decided to continue the tradition of
burial in Arlington. He seized the property permanently on behalf of the U.S.
Government to be used as Arlington Cemetery.
Lastly, we see the Arlington Memorial Bridge. It is 2,163 feet long and leads from
Arlington Cemetery to the Lincoln Memorial. It was placed here with some
symbolism in mind. Because it connected Lee’s former house and Lincoln’s
Memorial, it symbolized the reunification of North and South. Originally it was to be
built as part of the McMillan Commission Plan of 1901 that was to restore the city to
L’Enfant’s original plan. However, construction was delayed for twenty years. That
was until President Hoover was stuck in a three hour long traffic jam on his way to
dedicate the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Soon, money was appropriated and the
bridge was finally finished in 1932.
John Ericsson Memorial
One of the most important men in Naval History is probably unknown to most, but
he has a beautiful memorial here. John Ericsson was a Swedish engineer who
invented the screw propeller and also designed the USS Monitor the single ship that
gave the Union naval supremacy in the Civil War. (He also had some fantastic
mutton-chops!) This memorial was dedicated in 1926 by President Calvin Coolidge
and Swedish Crown Prince Gustaf Adolf. It stands almost 20 feet tall and its three
sides represent ‘adventure,’ ‘labor,’ and ‘vision.’ Lastly, it was designed by famed
architect James Earl Frasier who designed the Buffalo Nickel, as well as countless
statues and memorials around DC.
Korean War Veterans Memorial
The Korean War Memorial was dedicated July 27, 1995 on the 42nd anniversary of
the ceasefire that ended the war, or conflict. You will see 19 statues as you go
around the memorial – the statues were designed by Frank Gaylord, a World War II
veteran. Originally, the designers wanted to have 38 to represent the 38th parallel
that the conflict broke out in in 1950. Because of lack of funding and space, the
designers hope people will see the 19 statues reflect on the wall of faces, showing a
total of 38 statues. As you walk ahead, you’ll see the 22 United Nation countries that
were involved in the action. At the top of the memorial, you’ll see the casualties of
the conflict over the period of just three years. The United States lost 54,246 soldiers
and the United Nations lost 629,000 lives, close to the amount of the Vietnam War
which lasted almost 17 years. You’ll also see the “wall of faces” – the faces are actual
soldiers, nurses, and pilots whose pictures were submitted by their families.
Lincoln Memorial
The Lincoln Memorial was started on the 105th anniversary of Lincoln’s birth on
February 12, 1914, designed by Henry Bacon. The memorial took 8 years to build
and was completed in 1922 and dedicated over Memorial Weekend. There are 36
columns representing the number of states in the union when Lincoln was
assassinated in 1865. The attic at the top of the memorial lists the 48 states that
were in the union when the memorial was completed. Hawaii and Alaska were
added later on a plaque at the base of the stairs. As you walk up the stairs, you are
greeted by President Lincoln. Inside you’ll see the Gettysburg Address and his
Second Inaugural Address on the north and south walls. The statue is 19x19 feet,
designed by Daniel Chester French. If Lincoln were to actually stand up he’d be 28
feet tall. Originally, the statue was supposed to be only 10 feet tall, but was enlarged
so that he didn’t look insignificant in such a large chamber.
When the Memorial was dedicated by President Harding in 1922, Lincoln’s son,
Robert Todd, was in attendance. He was also at Lincoln’s bedside when he died after
being shot by John Wilkes Booth in 1865. In 1881, he was actually appointed
President James Garfield’s Secretary of War and was present when he was shot by
Charles Guiteau that same year. Lastly, he was present when Leon Czolgoz shot
President William McKinley in Buffalo in 1901
As you look at the color change of the steps of the memorial you’ll be able to find an
etching of where Dr. Martin Luther King’s podium stood when he gave his infamous
“I Have a Dream” speech in 1963. Finally, there also a plaque on the steps to honor
Alaska and Hawaii as states because they were not included
Vietnam Veterans Memorial
This memorial was actually developed because of what happened when the
veterans came home from war. As you may know, the war was not considered
victorious for the US and soldiers did not receive a welcoming home parade or
thank you as other veterans had. In 1979, a group of veterans, led by Jan Scruggs,
teamed together with Texas billionaire Ross Perot to make a non-political statement
about the war – they wanted the focus to be on the veterans. A competition was
announced to find a designer for the memorial – after several rounds, Maya Lin’s
quiet, yet powerful design was chosen. She was an undergraduate at Yale University.
Legend is that one of Lin’s professors actually gave her a B- for her design and the
professor had actually submitted his own design anonymously. (don’t like the
wording – will figure it out)
As of 2007, there are 58,256 names on the wall, 1,200 of which are re listed as
missing. The names are listed in chronological order of death or when they were
considered missing between 1959 and 1975. When looking at the wall, you’ll find
the first name (Dale R. Buis) in the center – the names then work towards the right,
jump over to the left side of the wall and finally meet at the middle for 1979. You’ll
notice a symbol beside each name; the diamond signifies the soldier was killed in
action, the cross means missing in action and the cross with a diamond means
missing and later discovered as deceased. At the entrance of the memorial, you’ll
find the “Three Servicemen” statue, which was added in 1984. In 1993, the women’s
memorial, designed by Glenna Goodacre, was added as a remembrance to the
women who served in the war. There are eight women’s names on the wall.
World War II Memorial
This is one of DC’s newest memorials, dedicated on Memorial Day in 2004 by
President George Bush. The memorial was designed by Friedrich St. Florian who
studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. As you can see, there are 56 seventeen
foot columns, which represent the states and territories that participated in the war.
The columns are in order as the states entered the union. First, you’ll see Delaware
on the left, then it jumps to Pennsylvania on the right and third you’ll see New Jersey
on back on the left and so on. There are two wreaths on each column, one is oak,
which represents the industrial strength of the nation at the time of the war and the
other is wheat, showing the agricultural strength. The two large arched structures
represent the two theatres the war was fought in, the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. In
the back, you’ll see the “wall of stars” – there are 400 gold stars on the wall. Each
star represents 100 deaths. As the soldiers left for service, their families would hang
a blue star in the window. If the star was changed to gold, it meant the soldier had
died while serving. As you walk around, you’ll see several quotes from Generals and
Presidents, enjoy your time.
17th Street and Constitution Avenue NW
This whole area was actually a canal in the 1800s – the stone house across the street
was built for the lockkeeper, who allowed barges to transfer between the two major
canals of the time. It’s said that he lived here with 13 children!
The Ellipse
The area from Constitution Avenue through the Ellipse to Pennsylvania Avenue was
known as Murder Bay for several years. Before the Civil War, freed slaves from
Virginia and poor whites lived in this area in what reporters wrote as the worst area
in the city. Whole families were crowded into small rooms that had little to no light
and/or fresh air. Thankfully, Murder Bay was removed when construction of
Federal Triangle began in the 1920s.
Second Division of the Army
This memorial represents the Second Division of the United States Army from World
War I. The flaming gold sword signifies the US defending Paris during the First
World War. In 1962, a new wing was added to the memorial – when the workers
were putting the 8 inch thick slab of granite into place the workmen heard the
sound of rustling newspapers and found two sleeping men inside, a major cause of
excitement at the time.
The Organization of American States
The OAS was founded in 1890 as the International Union of American Republics and
adopted its current name in 1948. Its purpose is to strengthen peace and security
among the United States and Latin American countries, promote democracy, and
promote economic, social, and cultural development.
Daughters of the American Revolution
This is the Daughters of the American Revolution Building headquarters.
Constitution Hall is in the back – in 1939, Marian Anderson, a famous African
American opera singer, was scheduled to perform here. At the last minute, the DAR
cancelled her performance. A lot of people believed it was because she was African
American. Eleanor Roosevelt was furious, so she canceled her membership and
worked withher friends at the Department of the Interior to have Ms. Anderson
perform on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial. This was the first performance/rally
to ever take place there – obviously the same site Dr. Martin Luther King gave his “I
Have a Dream” speech in 1963.
American Red Cross
Clara Barton and several friends founded the American Red Cross in Washington, DC
on May 21, 1881. She learned about the Swiss-inspired movement and immediately
started campaigning for the organization to care for and protect people injured in
war. The organization boomed during the First World War and has been called upon
ever since. This building serves as the headquarters for the Red Cross – it has a food
court and small museum dedicated to Clara Barton for all of her hard work.
The Old Executive Office Building
The Old Executive Office Building houses most of the White House staff but was
originally built for the State, War, and Navy Departments. Alfred Mullett was the
supervising architect – he chose a 2nd French Empire design, which was very unique
for the time period. The building took 17 years to complete (1871 to 1888) – Mr.
Mullett actually resigned before the building was completed because of the flak he
received from the public and the Secretary of the Treasury, Benjamin Bristow. At
first, people were unhappy with his design because they said the building was
ornate and represented big government. Mr. Mullett was also never paid his entire
fee for designing the building because of a technicality between two courts. Now, the
OEOB houses the Vice President and First Lady’s offices. In fact, Lyndon B. Johnson
was the first Vice President to have an office here in 1960.
In front of the building you can see a memorial to the First Division of the US Army.
Their nickname was “The Big Red One” – red flowers are planted in the shape of a
number one every spring.
Renwick Gallery
The Renwick Gallery is part of the Smithsonian and features arts and crafts. The
gallery was built in 1859 to house the American and European art collection of
Washington banker and philanthropist William Corcoran. The building was
completed in 1861, the city’s first art museum, and was named after James Renwick,
Jr. who also designed the Smithsonian Castle.
Blair House
The Blair House was built in 1824 and was home to Francis Preston Blair, friend to
many presidents and publisher of the Globe Magazine. The government purchased
the building in 1942 and it has been used a guest house for heads of state visiting
DC. It’s said that the Roosevelt administration purchased the house because first
lady Eleanor Roosevelt was sick of visitors staying in the White House. Early one
morning, Mrs. Roosevelt was walking through the living quarters when she
encountered Winston Churchill pacing the hallway with a cigar in one hand and a
glass of brandy in the other. She asked, “Winston, where are you going at this time of
the morning?” He replied, “To see Franklin.” Mrs. Roosevelt quickly told him to
return to his room – she was already agitated he had kept the president up half the
night!
This is also where President Truman’s assassination attempt took place. The
Trumans were living here because of renovations at the White House. Two Puerto
Rican nationalists unsuccessfully tried to shoot their way through the front door.
Today’s Blair House is actually a combination of five row houses and is larger than
the White House! It has 119 rooms with a total area of 70,000 square feet. Its goal is
to be comfortable, discreet, and secure and has 14 guest rooms, 35 bathrooms, 4
dining rooms, and even a florist and hair salon.
White House
The White House is the oldest public building in DC. The cornerstone was laid
October 1792. George Washington is the only president to never live at the White
House, simply because it wasn’t finished until November 1800. James Hoban, an
Irish immigrant, designed the house, wanting it to look like the Duke of Leinster’s
castle in Dublin, Ireland. The White House has 132 rooms and 35 bathrooms –
overall, it covers approximately 55,000 square feet!
Originally, the building was called the President’s House or Executive Mansion and
was actually the color of sandstone. The house was left with several burn marks
after the British attempted to burn the entire federal city in 1814. The entire house
was white washed to cover the scars and took on the nick-name of White House.
Teddy Roosevelt signed an Executive Order in 1902 giving it the official name of
White House. **I found out this isn’t actually true, but people love it… so…. your call.
The West Wing is off to the side, which is where you’d find the Oval Office. If you
ever see a Marine standing outside of the glass door, it means the President is in the
oval office – this is the only time Secret Service is replaced. Also, if you look on the
back of a $20 bill, this is the view you’re going to see – the gardens are groomed to
look just like the photo!
George Washington is the only president to have never lived at the White House –
John Adams moved in with his wife in 1800 before the mansion was complete. First
Lady Abigail Adams wrote, “I will use the unfinished barnlike room on the east side
of the house for our laundry.” Apparently, the building didn’t even have a completed
bathroom or water yet!
Dolley Madison took the role as FirstLady seriously and was known for hosting
relaxing parties for guests. It’s said that she continued entertaining at the White
House until the British soldiers reached the White House doorstep. The dinner table
was set for 40 guests the day she left – she ended up staying to pack valuable
documents, silver, and other items. She waited until she saw that the full-length
portrait of George Washington by artist Gilbert Stuart was being moved to safety.
Madison viewed the portrait as a symbol of the republic because the government
purchased the portrait for $800. The British soldiers went through the house, ate
the food that was intended for the dinner guests and torched the building.
Three days before Lincoln was assassinated he shared a dream he had with his wife
and a few friends. The night before his dream, the President had been up late
waiting for important war dispatches. After going to bed he dreamt that he heard
sobs; it sounded like a number of people weeping. He left his bed and wandered
downstairs where he continued to hear sobbing, but didn’t see anyone. He went
from room to room wondering what could have caused all of the sadness. He
eventually made his way into the East Room where he found a body being guarded
by soldiers and mourned for by several people. Lincoln asked a soldier, “Who is
dead in the White House?” and the soldier responded that the President was killed
by an assassin. The crowd broke into a loud burst of sobbing, which woke him from
his dream. President Lincoln did not sleep the rest of the night and said “although it
was only a dream, I have been strangely annoyed by it ever since.”
Teddy Roosevelt moved into the White House in 1901 with his wife and six children.
Roosevelt was actually quoted as saying, “I don’t think any family has enjoyed the
White House more than we have.” His children were known for riding their pony up
and down the elevator, climbing through the walls, riding their bikes around the
house, and climbing the stairs with their wooden stilts.
During Prohibition, the White House struggled to “stay clean.” A well-known
reporter for the Washington Post went out to buy a pint of gin from a well-known
bootlegger. He had just run out of liquor, so together they drove to the White House.
The bootlegger pulled a large burlap bag from behind a hedge, explaining the
grounds of the White House was a perfect hiding spot because nobody expected
anyone to be so audacious. After the bootlegger found a new hiding spot, the
reporter wrote an article about his experience – the article became national news,
causing people to question how police could enforce a ban that didn’t work even at
the White House!
Lafayette Square
In the center of the park is a statue of General Andrew Jackson – this was the first
equestrian state cast in the United States, unveiled January 8, 1853 (38th
anniversary of the victory at New Orleans). The cannons surrounding the memorial
are four rare Spanish cannons he captured in Pensacola. Jackson served in the US
House of Representatives for less than a term and as a US Senator for a single term.
He was elected as the 7th president, the first to be elected from outside the original
thirteen colonies. His supporters followed the inaugural parade to the White House,
where they trashed the furniture and only left after being lured outside by White
House staff carrying barrels of whiskey.
The park is named after Lafayette because people overflowed the park to get a
glimpse of him during his visit to DC in 1824. Originally, it was an open-air market,
military encampment site and a place for spectators to watch the burning of the
White House in 1814. Andrew Jackson was said to serve punch and whiskey and
President Grant turned the park into a small zoo where he kept his pet deer and
prairie dogs.
Treasury Department
We are now in front of the Treasury Department – it’s actually the third building to
stand near the White House. One of the buildings was burnt by arsonists in 1833.
This building took about 33 years to build – the government slowly added different
wings and architectural designs over the years. The building served as a barracks
for soldiers during the Civil War and a temporary White House for President
Andrew Johnson after Lincoln’s assassination. President Grant also had his
Inaugural Reception in the cash room, which was a marble hall where all of the
country’s daily financial business was conducted.
This is also the site where DC’s first electric street light was turned on, the night of
October 15, 1881. Newspapers reported that all of Washington came down to
witness the modern miracle.
Old Ebbitt Grill
The Old Ebbitt Grill is DC’s oldest saloon, founded in 1856. The now famous
restaurant was actually first a boarding house; Presidents Grant, Andrew Johnson,
Cleveland, and Teddy Roosevelt are just a few well-known guests. The boarding
house eventually closed down and the grill moved several times around the city –
finally landing here in 1983. The antique clock over the revolving door is an
heirloom from its previous location. They’re known for the having the best oysters
in town!
Willard Hotel
The Willard Hotel is one of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the city.
President Grant was known for visiting the hotel almost daily to enjoy a drink in the
lobby. At that time, the presidents were responsible for appointing all positions.
President Grant became so annoyed with people approaching him for jobs in the
lobby of the Willard, that it’s said he started calling them “lobbyists” – a term we still
use today.
Several exciting things happened at the Willard – Dr. Martin Luther King wrote his “I
Have a Dream” speech when staying at the Willard. In 1861, Julia Ward Howe wrote
“The Battle Hymn of the Republic” here. Apparently, she was awakened by Union
soldiers singing – she composed the new words on Willard Stationary.
National Theatre
The National Theatre is the oldest theatre in the city, dating back to 1835. It’s
actually the sixth building on this site. President Polk had one of his inaugural balls
here the night before “Beauty and the Beast” was to open. The manager was furious
and paranoid that the party would cause problems for the opening. At midnight the
stage manager ordered for all of the coats to be removed to a building next door.
When the party-goers were leaving chaos broke out because no one could find the
coats! The next night during the show a fire broke out in the oil room and the
theatre was burned down to just the walls.
During the war, Eleanor Roosevelt was known for calling the day of a performance
and asking for a single seat, which indicated her that the president was working late.
She was always escorted to the play and would then invite the cast to the White
House.
Just down the street is the Warner Theatre (opened in 1924). The Warner has a
miniature “Walk of Fame” featuring about 40 artists, all of whom performed at the
theatre, like Whippie Goldberg and Tom Jones.
Across the street, looking through Freedom Plaza, is the John A. Wilson building,
DC’s city hall. Mayor Fenty’s office and the city council’s offices are there. In front is
a statue of Alexander “Boss” Shepherd. Boss Shepherd was governor of DC from
1873 to 1874. He instituted a city improvement plan; the Board of Public Works tore
up the city and modernized the infrastructure. Streets were graded, sidewalks
paved, bridges built, a water and sewer system were installed, and trees were
planted. He transformed the city, spending $20 million, driving DC to bankruptcy.
Local citizens paid for the statue after realizing his great contribution to the city.