CE 596-02
Coastal Modeling
Fall Semester 2009
Instructors: Dr. Billy L. Edge and Dr. Margery Overton
Homework 3
1. Given a wave traveling through a water depth of 4.0 m with a period of 12 sec and a height
of 0.5 m. Now determine
(a)
the wavelength using cnoidal wave theory and compare with length from Airy
and Stokes 2nd or 5th order wave theories.
(b)
Determine the celerity using the same theories
(c)
Determine the distance from the wave crest to trough for each and
(d)
Plot the wave profile of each on the same graph
2. A pressure gage located 1 m above the bottom in 10 m of Atlantic water measures an
average maximum pressure of 10 N/cm2 having an average period of 12 sec. Find the
wave height and wave length using linear theory.
3. Determine the horizontal velocity distribution at x/L=0.00 with the Stokes theory, Cnoidal
and the linear (Airy) wave theories. Which would you propose using for calculation of
the force on a pile support structure for a coal unloading terminal? Would you have the
same answer for a fishing pier?
4. Assume that a square 14 inch concrete pile for the fishing pier experiences the wave above.
Determine the maximum force/vertical foot that would occur at the still water line. Use
the Morison equation to compute the forces. Provide the answer for the three wave
theories in Newtons/ft.
Due:
October 28, 2009.