What’s in the bottle? A Fundamental Presentation Pigment Bottle Ingredients By, Elizabeth Finch-Howell, CPCP Copyright 2009. All rights reserved. We are fortunate in having very high levels of quality ready made pigments from our SPCP Vendor Suppliers. For most of us, the information we are supplied with is sufficient for our needs. However, you may want to know more and to do this pigments need to be identified. Colorants Pill colorants Regardless of the product, colorants used for food, drugs, and cosmetics are derived from the FDA’s list by reputable manufactures. Food colorants Whether taking a pill, eating a steak, applying traditional makeup, or performing permanent cosmetics, the FDA’s color additive (colorant) listing Cosmetic colorants Permanent cosmetic colorants is the source. Cosmetic Pigment Bottle Ingredients Colorants Additives Organic Inorganic Preservatives Thickeners Surfactants (Binders) Substrates (Extenders) Carrier Liquid Colorants Organic Soluble or Inorganic Pigments Dyes Iron oxide Natural Lake Pigments Insoluble Insoluble Toner Titanium dioxide Pigments Manganese violet Rubine Reds Tartrazine Yellow Lithol Reds Hansa Yellow Some less insoluble As in vegetable black Ultramarines Carbon Colorants colored, black, white, or fluorescent Inorganic Insoluble Pigments Iron oxide Titanium dioxide Manganese violet Ultramarines The general characteristics of dyes Colorants colored, black, white, or fluorescent Organic Soluble Dyes Insoluble Colorants Soluble Colored Particulates The particulates lose their cyrstalline structure and dissolve. No separation. Just as the orange dye dissolves in orange soda. Insoluble vs. Soluble Essentially physically and chemically unaffected by the vehicle or substrate into which it is incorporated. Loses its’ crystalline structure Does NOT Dissolve Completely Dissolves Inorganic Pigment Colorants are Insoluble The definition of an inorganic pigment colorant is: Naturally mined or synthetic (chemical) colorant such as metallic oxide, sulfide, and other salts. Earth’s Minerals as a Colorant Source Two examples of ochre Blue Black Used by all civilizations, earths colors lend themselves to a wide range of uses from decorating the body to painting a wall. Cave Paintings Earth’s colored minerals have been used constantly throughout human history. Inorganic and Insoluble Pigment Colorants Inorganic and Insoluble Pigment Colorants Ultramarine Blue, Pink and Green Chromium Oxide Green Iron Oxides Titanium Dioxide Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment Colorants Naturally Mined or Synthetically Made Iron oxides hold a very important place in the pigment market because of their wide range of colors, stability, and nontoxic nature. By far, iron is the most common and stable of all the elements. Iron oxides– have iron in its composition Titanium dioxide– has titanium in its composition Ultramarines – have an aluminum salt in its composition Manganese violet – has manganese in its composition Iron oxides are separated into four major classifications: Browns Reds Blacks Yellows Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment - Reds How are They Produced? One of the methods to produce red iron oxide is by high temperature calcining of iron sulfate to make Fe O (red iron oxide.) 2 3 Calcining = Roasting at very high temperatures - over 800 F Synthetic Brown Iron Oxides are produced by four methods: 1. Blends of red, black, and yellow. 2. Direct precipitation (aqueous) 3. Calcining (roasting) 4. Controlled reduction of synthetic black. This form produces only browns at the lighter end of the brown color spectrum and are mostly ashy pink browns and gray browns. Titanium Dioxide Pigment White 6 -- Color Index 77891 Titanium Dioxide is the most important white pigment currently produced commercially. The pigment is used in a wide range of applications including inks, textiles, paper, paints, food, and pharmaceuticals. Inorganic Ultramarine Pigments Blue, Green, and Violet Ultramarine pigments are insoluble inorganic compounds that are available in a wide range of blue shades, green shades, violets, and pink. They have been assigned the color index number 77007 and cataloged as Pigment Blue 29, Pigment Green 24, and Pigment Violet 15. Inorganic Manganese Violet Pigment Violet 16 – Color Index 77742 Manganese violet is FDA approval for cosmetic applications. It has excellent lightfastness (8) and bleed resistance (5). Although it is manufactured at relatively high temperatures, it is not a calcined product. Also, this red-shade violet is a perfect red shade and not easily achieved by the use of other pigments. BLACK PIGMENT Three kinds of BLACK PIGMENT Colorants Organic Insoluble Toner Pigments Carbon Black Inorganic Soluble Natural Vine lnsoluble Black Furnace Black Lamp Black Thermal Black Bone Black Vegetable Black (semi-soluble) lnsoluble lnsoluble Iron Oxide Black Carbon Black Pigments Furnace Black Lamp Black Carbon Black Pigment Thermal Black Bone Black Carbon Black Pigments All carbon blacks are the result of the thermal decomposition of hydro-carbons. Vine Black (Logwood) Vegetable Carbon Black Molecule Although it’s the smallest molecule of all pigment molecules, the round, very bumpy surface area which reflects more light is why it is the blackest of blacks. Black Iron Oxide Molecule The black iron oxide molecule is cubic and has flat areas which cut down on reflection. Permanent Cosmetic and Body Art Tattooing Carbon black is on each end with black iron oxides in the center. Blacks washed and dried. Courtesy of Marjorie Grimm, CPCP Black Carbon Ink Carbon is the smallest molecule of all the pigments. The surface area of black carbon ink is multi-faceted and extremely dense. Compare Black Iron Oxide and Carbon Black Black Iron Oxide is a large molecule with a flat cubic surface area. Black carbon ink is a very small molecule with a large multi-faceted surface area. Iron Oxide Black Pigment Natural and Synthetic Black exhibits excellent light fastness. Compared to synthetic black iron oxide, the natural pigment grade is a grayer black, having a weaker tint strength and a larger particle size. The synthetic black is normally a highly desirable black and used for pigment manufacturing purposes. Chemical Organic Pigments Chemical Organic Pigments The yellow synthetic powder mimic the bright yellow daisy. Aside from the natural organics and inorganics (metallic salts pigments) organic pigments are synthetically made up entirely of chemicals to mimic the bright colors of natural organics. Most of these colors are dyes (soluble) and are combined with metallic salts to become insoluble. Chemical Organic Pigment Organic pigments are generally brighter, richer in color, and more expensive than their inorganic counterparts. They are also typically less resistant to sunlight, humidity, and chemicals. Chemical Organic Pigment Chemical organic pigments are characterized as either Toners or Lakes by the U.S. International Trade Commission. Organic Lakes Toners Chemical Organic Pigment A TONER is an organic pigment that is free of inorganic pigment or extenders, as in Carbon Black Pigment. It is undiluted organic pigment with maximum tinting strength. Toner pigments are INSOLUBLE. ___________________________________ A LAKE is an organic pigment that is a DYE that is combined with an inorganic pigment or extenders to turn the soluble dye into an insoluble pigment. Lakes then become INSOLUBLE. Natural Organic Colorants Natural Organic Colorants As a society we normally think of the word “organic” in relation to the way agricultural products such as food and fiber are grown and processed. Organic food production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers (chemicals.) Organic foods are minimally processed without artificial ingredients, preservatives, or irradiation to maintain. Natural Organic Colorants The permanent cosmetic manufacturers do not use natural organic colorants to manufacturer tattoo pigments. This also applies to the body art tattooing industry. Natural Organic Colorants Annatto Orange #4 Turmeric Natural Yellow #3 Cochineal Extract Natural Red #4 Saffron Natural Yellow #6 Carmel Natural Brown #10 Natural Organic Colorants Why are natural organic colorants not used for permanent cosmetic tattoo pigments? 1. The powders are very expensive 2. They are not insoluble. 3. The color variety is not available to supply the needed hues in demand. As an example. there is only one natural organic brown – Carmel, Natural Brown #10 on the FDA color additive list for food, drugs and cosmetics. And… most importantly… they are SOLUBLE DYES What This Means to Technicians Suppliers who advertise “organic” pigments are referring to synthetically (chemically) produced organic pigments not natural source organics. They may be relying on the misconception that all organic materials are without chemical processing such as in “organically” produced agriculture. What This Means to Technicians In reality, inorganic pigments are from a natural source (the earth,) organic pigments are chemically manufactured for cost effective purposes and variety, whereas true natural organic pigments are not even used in our industry. Natural Organics are soluble dyes. Preservatives Preservatives are added to permanent cosmetics to prevent the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi. Preservatives can include: - ethyl alcohol. - sodium benzoate 0.2% - tetrasodium EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) Thickeners Thickening agents such as polymers are often added to pigments to change their consistency. * Polymers can be synthetic (e.i., polyethylene glycol) or derived from natural sources (e.i, polysaccharides). Starch and cellulose are examples of polysaccharides. * Glycerin (from stearic acid) is a humectant used in tattooing for thickening and to keep the pigment from drying out. Glycerin’s molecular Formula: C3H8O3 Glycerin Pro’s Con’s * Pigment doesn’t dry out * Pigment NEVER dries out * Keeps carrier solution more fluid * Large molecule can impede placement of pigment particles * Large molecule and mass spreads pigment particles apart from one another * Defies gravity and creeps up and out of LDPE bottles and most HDPE bottles Glycerin is from Stearic Acid (Vegetable Fat) - When a vegetable oil molecule is split in half, glycerin and fatty acids are the result. Stearic Acid Binders (Surfactants) The most popular surfactant is polycarbocylic acid. Non toxic and FDA approved for food, drugs, and cosmetics. Surfactants attach themselves to the molecules to create more viscosity (thicker feel) Note: Viscosity (thicker feel) DOES NOT CREATE THICKER PIGMENT I can make you think you have thick pigment. Tee Hee Substrates Alumina Hydrate Barium Sulfate The above substrates are the ones most commonly used to turn dyes, which are soluble, into pigments, which are insoluble. What are substrates? Substrates are inorganic insoluble substances usually colorless. A dye, which is soluble, becomes insoluble (a pigment) when combined with an inorganic substrate such as Alumina Hydrate or Barium Sulfate. Carrier Fluid The carrier fluid is what carries the powder pigment into the skin The most popular carrier fluids are distilled water and alcohol Four Different Carrier Methods Water and Alcohol with no Additives (i.e. preservatives, glycerin, surfactants, substrates, witch hazel, propylene glycol, etc.) Water alone when the Additive is a preservative Water and Alcohol with Glycerin. Alcohol alone with no Additives. (Some pigments, such as titanium dioxide change color when dispersed with distilled water.) Permanent Cosmetics Color Change or Fading Permanent Cosmetic Color Change or Fading The formulation materials of the pigments play a part in longevity and fading: Organics will fade long before Inorganics According to the Pigment Handbook, Volume 1 Properties and Economics 2nd ed. A WileyInterscience Publication, 1988 [The Pigment Handbook,] organics have a shorter life than inorganic iron oxide pigments. Organic Pigment Inorganic Pigment Why Did The Permanent Cosmetic Color Fade or Change? If a brown eyebrow formulation included a chemical organic yellow (bright flower color yellow) over time, the chemical organic yellow will fade faster causing the eyebrow color to shift to resemble a brown made up only of the iron oxide components. Using an inorganic yellow (mustard color) will last very much the same as the other inorganic colors in the formulation. Lightfastness What is it? Lightfastness refers to the chemical stability of a pigment under long exposure to light. As a source of energy, light can cause color and chemical changes in many pigments. These changes can cause the color to whiten, gray, darken, change hue, fade or completely disappear. Permanence or fastness refers to the chemical stability of the pigment in relation to any chemical or environmental factor, including light, heat, water, acids, alkalis, or mold. For example, ultramarine blue is extremely lightfast, but it will fade with a dilute acid in the mix. Light Fastness Properties Lightfastness and bleed resistance of each pigment is crucial to the procedure outcome. Lightfastness is a logarithmic measurement, assessed on a scale of 1-8, based on the Blue Wool Scale and may be compared as follows: Use blended pigment colors that have similar lifespans and lightfastness. This will make for a much better procedure outcome and procedure life. Sun Exposure Affects All Color Exposure to sun affects how all color eventually performs, regardless of the medium it is applied to. Book on the left was in a window exposed to sun. New book is on the right. Courtesy of Marjorie Grimm, CPCP Iron Oxide Browns Identify: 6 correct brow colors 5 that will leave maroon-purple residue 7 that will leave pink or orange residue Iron Oxide Browns Cool browns that will leave maroon/purple residual color Warm Browns Browns that will leave pink/orange residual color Fugitive Salmon Colored Eyebrows How Are They Produced? The pigment formula contained incorrect undertones for the skin type. Possible culprit formula: Inorganic cool red-brown base ( little or no brightness) + organic yellow ( bright and will fade faster ) = salmon/orange. Characteristics of a Pigment Eyebrow Procedures After original procedures healed, Eyebrows and eyeliner. With some allowance for skin undertone variances over time and the right pigment having been applied to the right undertone, pigments in general should fade to a lighter version of the original color. Two and one half years later The Permanent Cosmetic Standard for Safe Colorants Reputable pigment manufacturers use the FDA’s food, drug, and cosmetic color additive listings as a standard for safe colorants. These products, which include both pigments, and dyes (inorganics, natural organics and synthetic chemical organics,) represent a unique and special category of colorants. These colorants have historically been subject to stringent regulatory requirements and legislative scrutiny. The FDA refers to their approved list for safe colors as “color additives.” This term is synonymous with “colorants.” Don’t let the two different words cause confusion. All color additives (colorants) approved by the FDA for use in foods, drugs, and cosmetics are listed on three tables. Colorants approved for use in foods are on table 1. Colorants approved for use in drugs are on table 2. Colorants approved for use in cosmetics are on table 3. FDA’s Approved Color Additive (Colorant) Listings When these tables are compared, the drug and cosmetic’s charts are identical with the exception of a couple of blues and an acid violet #43. Other than this one exception, there is virtually no difference between pharmaceutical (drug) grade color additives (colorants) and cosmetic grade color additives (colorants.) FDA Color Additive (Colorant) Approved Listings Each table has two general categories: 1. Color additives (colorants) exempt from certification 2. Color additives (colorants) subject to certification Exempt from FDA Batch Certification All food, drug, and cosmetic inorganic pigments known to be used by the permanent cosmetic industry are on the FDA’s exempt from certification color additive (colorant) list. Inorganic pigments known to be used by the permanent cosmetic industry, when taken from the FDA’s approved color additive (colorant) listings are considered safe by the FDA and do not require batch certification. Undertones The Real Color The pigments below appear warm: Undertones The Real Color White was mixed in and shows the TRUE color undertone: In Conclusion Colorants are either organic or inorganic. In the permanent cosmetic industry all of our organics (bright reds, yellows, oranges) are synthetically produced. We do not use any natural sources for organic pigment. The grade of light fastness and bleed resistance is important and can affect pigment performance. There are a variety of additives in a cosmetic pigment bottle, varying from manufacturer to manufacturer and many different processes that pigments are derived from which affect the healed color of a procedure. Many common problems associated with permanent cosmetics could be avoided if technicians would take the time to investigate and learn more about the pigments they use. Be Smart Ask Questions Investigate - Always