ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
NAILS
Module 28
EDITOR’S NOTE
 All
artificial nail enhancements products
are based on ingredients from the acrylic
family
 Sub-branch called “methacrylate”

Two-part liquid and powder enhancement
systems
 “Acrylic”
– general term for large group of
ingredients
 Liquid
and powder artificial nail
enhancements products based on the
methacrylate subcategory
 Two-part liquid and powder enhancement
system referred to as acrylic
(methacrylate) nails
INTRODUCTION
 Acrylic
(methacrylate) nail enhancements
created by combining:
monomer liquid
 polymer powder

 Liquid
and powder system
MONOMER
 “Mono”
means “one”
 “Mer” stands for “units”
 Monomer is one unit called a “molecule”
POLYMER
 “Poly”
means “many
 “Mer” stands for “units”
 Polymer means “many units” or “many
molecules”
“LIQUID AND POWDER NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS”
 Applied



Natural nail as protective overlay
Over nail tip
Sculpted to extend natural nail using a flexible
form
 Natural

three basic ways
hair brush best to apply products
Sable is best
 Brush
immersed in monomer liquid
 Natural hair bristles absorb and hold
monomer like a reservoir
 Tip of brush touched to surface of dry
polymer powder
 Monomer
absorbs polymer – small bead is
formed
 Bead is carefully placed on the nail
surface and molded into shape with brush
 Liquid
is usually made from ethyl
methacrylate monomer

Can contain other monomers used as
customizing additives
 Polymer
powder is also made ethyl
methacrylate monomer
 Polymer powder is made using a special
chemical reaction called polymerization
 Process


Trillions of monomers linked together to create
long chains
Long chains create tiny beads of polymer used
to create certain types of artificial nails
 Special
additives blended into both liquid
and powder
Ensure complete set or cure
 Maximum durability
 Color stability
 Shelf life

 Liquid
is picked up by brush and mixed
with the powder


Bead forms on the end of brush and quickly
hardens
To happen special additives called catalysts
 Catalyst



Additive designed to speed up chemical
reactions
Added to monomer liquid
Used to control the set or curing time
 Monomer
liquid and polymer powder
combined the catalyst helps control the
set-up or hardening time
 Energizes and activates the initiators
 Initiators start a chain reaction that
leads to the creation of fantastically long
polymer chains
 Polymerization
process begins the second
the liquid in the brush picks up powder
from the container and forms a bead

Dominos
INITIATOR
 Added
to polymer is called benzoyl
peroxide (BPO)
Over the counter acne medicine
 Different purpose in nail enhancements

 BPO
used to start chain reaction that
leads to curing (hardening)
 Some
monomers require more BPO than
others



Use polymer powder designed for use with
monomer liquid
Using wrong powder can create enhancements
that are not properly cured
Could increase risk of client developing skin
sensitivity or irritation
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS
 Polymer





powders
Many colors
Basic pink
White
Clear
Natural
 Used
alone
 Customized colors – blended





Shades of pink
Match or enhance nail beds
Bold primaries
Pastels
Wide range of designs and patterns
SUPPLIES FOR ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
 Acrylic
(methacrylate) nail enhancements
created by combining acrylic
(methacrylate) monomer liquid with
polymer powder
 Acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid

Here’s a tip pp 753 / 901
MIX RATIO
 Amount
of monomer liquid and polymer
powder used to create a bead
 “Dry Bead”
Equal
 “Wet

amounts of liquid and powder
Bead”
Twice as much liquid as powder
 “Medium


Bead”
50% more liquid than powder
Ideal mix ratio
 Typically
ensures proper set and
maximum durability of enhancements
 Too much powder
Brittleness
 discoloration

 Too
little powder
Weak
 Risk developing skin irritation and
sensitivity

ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) POLYMER
POWDER
 Choose
color depends on methods used
NAIL DEHYDRATOR
 Apply
liberally to natural nail plate only
 Avoid skin contact
 Remove surface moisture and tiny
amounts of oil
 Both can block adhesion

Here’s a tip pp 753
NAIL PRIMER
 Acid-based
primers (methacrylic acid)
Corrosive to skin
 Potentially dangerous to eyes
 Not used much nowadays

 “Acid
free” and “nonacid” primer
developed in wide use today

Caution box pp 754
 Read
mfg directions
 Refer to MSDS for safe handling
recommendations and instructions
ACID-BASED PRIMERS
 Relatively
dry brush
 Using a light dotting action
 Carefully dab the brush tip to center of
properly prepared nail
 Primer will spread out and cover nail
plate
 Avoid product running into skin

Causing burns/injuries
 Read
mfg. suggested use and precautions
NON-ACID AND ACID-FREE NAIL PRIMERS
 Slightly
damp brush
 Ensure nail plate is completely covered
 Avoid too much product
Running onto skin
 Causing skin irritation/sensitivity

 Treat
2 -3 nails before dipping back into
container
 Read mfg suggested application
procedures and precautions
ABRASIVES
 Medium
grit
180 – 240
 Natural nail prep and shaping
 Smoothing

 Fine
grit
350 or higher
 buffing

3

way buffer
Create shine for no polish
 Coarser



grit
Lower grit
Avoid using
Can damaged fresh nail enhancement
 Acrylics
strength
can take 24 – 48 hours till peak
NAIL FORMS
 Placed
under free edge
 Used to extend nail enhancements beyond
fingertip
 Creates additional strength

Extra boxes on PP 902 - 903
NAIL TIPS
 Pre-formed
extensions
 Wide variety



Shapes
Styles
colors
NAIL ADHESIVE
 Cyanoacrylate
monomers
 Each types uses different customized
additives to enhance



Set times
Strength
Other properties
 Small



size bottle
Short shelf life
6 months after date of purchase
Depends on storage and usage
 Obtain




maximum shelf life
Close cap securely
Set upright
Store out of direct sunlight
Room temperature - 60º - 85º
 Nail
adhesive may harden in tube and
need to be thrown away
DAPPEN DISH
 Poured



into special holder
Monomer
Polymer
Small narrow openings – minimize
evaporation
 Do
not use open-mouthed jars or
containers with large openings
 Must be covered with a tightly fitting lid
when not in use
 NEVER
pour unused portion back into
original container

contaminated
 Avoid
skin contact with monomer to avoid
skin sensitivity or irritation
 Wipe clean with acetone
 Store in a dust free location
NAIL BRUSH
 Sable
hair
 Synthetic/less expensive brushes do not
pick up monomer or do not release liquid
properly
 Avoid overly large brushes –
 Hold excessive amount of liquid


Risk touching client’s skin with monomer
May increase risk of developing skin irritation
or sensitivities
SAFETY EYEWEAR
 Protect
eyes from flying objects
 Accidental splashes
DUST MASKS AND PROTECTIVE GLOVES
 Dust
masks
Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation
off excessive amounts of dust
 Provide NO protection from vapors

 Gloves
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS PRE-SERVICE
 Complete
pre-service sanitation and
disinfection procedure (ch. 25, pp 672/817)





Wash implements
Rinse implements
Immerse implements
Wash hands with liquid soap
Rinse and dry implements
 Set
up standard manicuring table
 Greet
client and direct to wash hands
with liquid soap and warm water
 Perform client consultation
APPLICATION OF ACRYLIC
(METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
USING FORMS
 Pages
757 – 761
 FYI pp 762
 Pages
912 - 915
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS POST-SERVICE
 Make
another appointment
 Take-home product recommendation
 Clean up around table
 Clean brush
 Store acrylic products
 Discard used materials
 Clean table - clean and disinfect
implements and multiuse tools
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS OVER NAIL TIPS OR
NATURAL NAILS
 Pages
763 – 766
 Caution box pp 766
 Pages
– 908 - 911
MAINTENANCE AND REMOVAL OF ACRYLIC
(METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
 Regular
maintenance prevents nail
enhancements from lifting or cracking
 If lifting/breaking greater risk of infection
and other problems
 Full and proper rebalance must be
performed every 2 – 3 weeks
REBALANCING
 Method
for maintaining the beauty,
durability, and longevity of artificial nail
enhancements
 Do not let clients go too long without
proper rebalance - more repairs
 Nail is thinned down –apex of nail
removed – entire nail enhancement
reduced in thickness
 Procedure pages 768 – 769 / 916 - 918

Caution box page 769 / 917
CRACK REPAIR
 Addition
of enhancement product to repair
cracks
 Similar procedure to rebalance
 Procedures – page 770 / 919 - 920
REMOVAL
 Perform
as soon as possible after request
is made
 Procedure pp 771 921 - 922
 Condition surrounding skin with nail
oil/lotion
ODORLESS ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
PRODUCTS
 Same
chemistry as all other monomer
liquid and polymer powder
 Instead of using ethyl acrylic
(methacrylate) – rely on monomers with
little odor
 Must be used with a dry ix ratio

 If
Equal parts liquid to powder in bead
too wet – skin irritation /sensitivity
 “snowy – appearing” bead on brush
 Lift brush and tap gently to remove excess
powder
 Never
rewet the brush with monomer
 Will dilute the enhancement product
already placed on nail
 Create wrong mix ratio
 Odorless harder more slowly
 Creates tacky layer - “inhibition” layer
 After hardening – remove using alcohol,
acetone or mfg. product
 Can be filed away
 Avoid skin contact
COLORED ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
POWDERS
 Limited
only by your imagination
 Maintain recipe cards so they can be
reproduced
 Create customized nail enhancements
 Pay a few dollars more for the special
service