ANECALC
ANECALC ?
ANECALC 是一个用于估算线耗用和 计算
每一件成衣的成本的工具。
ANECALC
用量线&成本评估
• ANECALC也是一个从Excel 的电子表格中开发出来的。
• ANECALC 是 根据于Union Special（美国的一间培训中心）
用线量的计算公式。
• 公式是根据于针步类型, 平均车缝厚度 和每英寸针数
+
Stitch Type
针步类型
+
Avg. Seam Thickness
平均车缝厚度
Stitches Per Inch
每一英寸针数
401 Chainstitch - Estimated Thread Consumption
Stitches Per Inch (SPI)
Seam
Thickness
Lt. Weight
inches
0.025
0.030
0.035
0.040
0.045
Med. Wt.
0.050
0.055
0.060
0.065
0.070
0.075
Hvy. Wt.
0.080
0.085
0.090
0.095
0.100
0.105
0.110
0.115
Ex. Hvy. Wt. 0.120
0.125
mm
0.6
0.8
0.9
1.0
1.1
1.3
1.4
1.5
1.7
1.8
1.9
2.0
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.7
2.8
2.9
3.0
3.2
6
4.30
4.36
4.42
4.48
4.54
4.60
4.66
4.72
4.78
4.84
4.90
4.96
5.02
5.08
5.14
5.20
5.26
5.32
5.38
5.44
5.50
8
4.40
4.48
4.56
4.64
4.72
4.80
4.88
4.96
5.04
5.12
5.20
5.28
5.36
5.44
5.52
5.60
5.68
5.76
5.84
5.92
6.00
10
4.50
4.60
4.70
4.80
4.90
5.00
5.10
5.20
5.30
5.40
5.50
5.60
5.70
5.80
5.90
6.00
6.10
6.20
6.30
6.40
6.50
12
4.60
4.72
4.84
4.96
5.08
5.20
5.32
5.44
5.56
5.68
5.80
5.92
6.04
6.16
6.28
6.40
6.52
6.64
6.76
6.88
7.00
14
4.70
4.84
4.98
5.12
5.26
5.40
5.54
5.68
5.82
5.96
6.10
6.24
6.38
6.52
6.66
6.80
6.94
7.08
7.22
7.36
7.50
16
4.80
4.96
5.12
5.28
5.44
5.60
5.76
5.92
6.08
6.24
6.40
6.56
6.72
6.88
7.04
7.20
7.36
7.52
7.68
7.84
8.00
18
4.90
5.08
5.26
5.44
5.62
5.80
5.98
6.16
6.34
6.52
6.70
6.88
7.06
7.24
7.42
7.60
7.78
7.96
8.14
8.32
8.50
Formula Used = 4 + 2 X (thickness X Stitches per Inch)
20
5.00
5.20
5.40
5.60
5.80
6.00
6.20
6.40
6.60
6.80
7.00
7.20
7.40
7.60
7.80
8.00
8.20
8.40
8.60
8.80
9.00
ANECALC
• 多少缝纫线的消耗 ？
• 多少缝纫线的成本在每一件车缝成品中 ？
• 当以下条件变化时会有什么影响：
–针步类型(Stitch Type)
–针距(SPI)
–车缝长度(Seam Length)
–缝纫线种类(Thread Type)
ANECALC
• 选定以下正确的电子表格：
• 薄身布料
(衬衫, T恤衫)
• 中等布料 (裤子,唐装, 羊毛衫, 运动衫)
• 厚身布料 (牛仔裤, 工作服, 风衣)
ANECALC
•针步类型图表
•针距器
•皮尺
•ANECALC 软件
填写公司名称,
地址，样品衣描述
输入平均的车缝厚度（厘米），
一般为两层布料的厚度。
只需要输入表格内
兰色字格部分就可以。
点击箭头并选择
车缝所用的ISO针步
输入车缝工序的名称
Stitch Drawing
Top View As Sewn
Bottom View As Sewn
ISO 4915 Common
Number Application
Requirements
Stitch Description
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed by 3-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
is interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Looper Thread on Bottom
406
3 Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Looper Thread on Bottom
407
2 Needle Chainstitch with
Cover Thread
Looper Thread on Bottom
408
Attaching Pocket
Facings to Jeans
& Chino Casual
Pants
2 Thread Overedge
Single "purl" on Edge
503
Serging &
Blindhemming
Specify
Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread
1) Width Bite (Ex. with purl on edge of seam for serging or
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") blindhemming ONLY.
2) SPI.
3 Thread Overedge
Most Common Overedge
Stitch
504
Single Needle
Overedge
Seaming
Specify
Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") edge of the seam. For overedge seaming and serging.
2) SPI.
3 Thread Overedge
Double "purl" on Edge
505
Serging with
Double purl on
Edge
Specify
Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a double purl
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") on the edge of the seam for serging ONLY.
2) SPI.
Mock Safety Stitch
2 Needle Overedge
512
Hemming,
Attaching, Elastic,
Binding,
Coverseaming,
Making Belt
Loops
Attaching Elastic
to Men's & Boys
Knit Underwear
Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 2-looper threads with
the stitches set on the underside of the seam. A top
spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the
seam between the two needle threads.
Seaming Stretch Specify SPI.
Knits, Wovens
Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper
threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 512 – right needle only enters the
upper looper loop. Stitch does NOT chain-off as well
as 514 Stitch
Find Drawings at www.amefird.com
American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Heavy Weight Fabrics
Company Name:
Avg. Seam Thickness
2.7
mm
ABC Manufacturing Company
* Changing the seam thickness (mm) will adjust the thread consumption formulas
Garment Description:
Fill in the information highlighted in 'blue'
5 Pocket Jean
Style #345678
Size:
34 X 32
Wash - Stone-wash & Sand Blast
Oper
#
1
Name of Operation
Serge Left Fly
Rows
Seam
Needle
Needle
Bobbin
Bobbin
Looper
Looper / Cover
Total
ISO
of
Length
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Metres/
Stitch
Stitch
SPI
CM
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Oper.
504 3 Thd
301 Serge
1
8
23
0.83
2
Stitch #?
3
Stitch #?
4
Stitch #?
5
Stitch #?
6
Stitch #?
7
Stitch #?
8
Stitch #?
9
Stitch #?
10
Stitch #?
2.94
分别输入车缝的行数（Rows Of Stitch)、针距（SPI)
和车缝长度 （Length of Seam）， 注意当输入
这些资料后,缝纫线的用量便会自动计算出来。
3.77
American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Heavy Weight Fabrics
Company Name:
Avg. Seam Thickness
2.7
mm
ABC Manufacturing Company
* Changing the seam thickness (mm) will adjust the thread consumption formulas
Garment Description:
Fill in the information highlighted in 'blue'
5 Pocket Jean
Style #345678
Size:
34 X 32
Wash - Stone-wash & Sand Blast
Rows
Oper
#
1
Name of Operation
Make Belt Loops
Seam
Needle
Needle
Bobbin
Bobbin
Looper
Looper / Cover
Total
ISO
of
Length
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Metres/
Stitch
Stitch
SPI
CM
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Oper.
406 Make
301 Loops
1
8
48
4.15
2.77
T-40 Spun Poly - White
6.91
2
Stitch #?
3
Stitch #?
4
Stitch #?
5
Stitch #?
6
Stitch #?
7
Stitch #?
8
Stitch #?
9
Stitch #?
10
Stitch #?
T-80 D-Core RO
接着,输入使用缝纫线的种类 或是推荐使用的缝纫线，连续输入到
每个车缝工序，或者当输入一个类型的缝纫线时，如果其它工序有
使用一样的缝纫线时，采用复制与粘贴（Copy & Paste)的功能，从而
复制到其它相对应的工序。
要记得重复检查每一个车缝工序都有计算过。
当301 和 401 针步分别使用两条面线和两条底线时，
那么它的车缝行数(Rows of Stitch)便是等于2 。
= 3行针步
301平式针步Lockstitch
401锁链底针步Lockstitch
401锁链底针步Lockstit
= 2 行针步
301平式针步Lockstitch
因为一个406针步是使用两支针在一个缝步内，
那么它的车缝行数(Rows of Stitch)也是等于1。
如果针线是在连
接于缝步的面部
或者底部就是代
表是一个针步。
因为一个602针步也是使用两支针在一个缝步内，
那么它的车缝行数(Rows of Stitch)也是等于1 。
车缝袋口饰线
408 或 602 面视图
如果针线是在连
接于缝步的面部
或者底部就是代
表是一个针步。
602 底视图
408 底视图
= 1 个针步
如果是选择一个516(Safetystitch)保险针步 – 那么就需要满足条件
是在401锁链底(chainstitch)和 504三线包边(Overedge)的这两个针
步内面线的类型一样，同时也需要底线（勾线）也一样的。
American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Heavy Denim
Company Name:
Avg. Seam Thickness
0.106 Inch
or
ANE CALC
2.7
(R)
mm
* Changing the seam thickness (mm) will adjust the thread consumption formulas
ABC MFG. COMPANY
ANYWHERE
Complete the cells that are marked in blue .
Garment Description:
Men's Relaxed Fit 5 Pkt Jean
Style #
Size:
Rows
Oper
#
Name of Operation
34 X 32
Seam
Needle
Needle
Bobbin
Bobbin
Looper
Looper / Cover
Total
ISO
of
Length
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
Metres/
Stitch
Stitch
SPI
CM
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Metres
Tex / Type / Color
Oper.
PARTS DEPT.
1
Make Belt Loops
406 Make301
Loops
1
8
48
4.13
T105PCore-RO
2.75
T-40 Pcore-White
6.88
2
Serge Left Fly
504 3 Thd Serge
1
8
28
1.01
T-40 Pcore-White
3.57
T-40 Pcore-White
4.58
3
Zipper Tape to Left Fly
401 Chainstitch
2
8
28
2.28
T60PCore-Navy
1.52
T-40 Pcore-White
3.80
4
Hem watch pocket
401 Chainstitch
2
8
13
1.04
T105PCore-RO
0.69
T105PCore-RO
1.73
5
Set Watch Pocket
301 Lockstitch
2
8
18
0.67
T105PCore-RO
6
Set Pkt Facings
602 Pkt Facings
1
8
51
3.74
T-40 Pcore-White
7
Bag Front Pocket
516 /Both Safetystitch
1
8
51
0.64
T105PCore-RO
1.32
5.62
T-40 Pcore-White
9.36
8
Hem Hip Pocket
401 Chainstitch
2
8
9
Deco Hip Pocket
401 Chainstitch
2
8
4.01
T-40 Pcore-White
7.78
T-40 Pcore-White
11.79
注意当您选择打枣/套结(Bartacks)或是开钮扣孔/钮门(Buttonhole)，
您选择针步种类(Stitch Type)同时也要选择车缝的宽度，而当输入
Length) 您只需要在这两个项目中填入
47 针距(SPI)和车缝长度(Seam
3.84
T105PCore-RO
2.56
T105PCore-RO
6.39
41 “1”。
3.32
T105PCore-RO
2.21
T105PCore-RO
5.53
10
Set Hip Pockets
301 Lockstitch
2
8
91
3.45
T105PCore-RO
3.32
T-60 Pcore-White
6.77
11
Tack Hip Pockets
Bartack 1/2"
4
1
1
1.33
T105PCore-RO
0.40
T-60 Pcore-White
1.73
12
Set Risers
401 Chainstitch
2
8
56
4.56
T105PCore-RO
3.04
T-60 Pcore-White
7.60
13
Fell Seatseam
401 Chainstitch
2
8
43
3.53
T105PCore-RO
2.35
T-60 Pcore-White
5.88
BACKS DEPT.
打枣/套结(Bartacks) – 你必须选择车缝的宽度和
计算在所有的工序内有多少个。
当您把所有的工序的资料填写完全后，
面线总用线长度、底线总用线长度 和勾线
用线总长度便会自动显示于表格底面。
当每种面线、底线和勾线在一些工序用线不相同时，您需要
用复制和粘贴(Copy & Paste)的功能，把每一种不相同的线的
种类粘贴于以下的空格内， 那么它便会自动显示出每种类型
的线的用量和整件车缝成品的总用线量。
接着，再选择成本计算表格一栏。
注意当你选择这一个表格，
之前一些填写的一些资料和每种
缝纫线的用线量将会被自动转移过来。
注意当输入每个线的长度和价格时，
每件成品的用线成本将会被自动计算出来。
例如，当我们输入是生产25000件牛仔裤时，
那么它将会自动计算总共需要1299个线，
而且可以计算出来做这些牛仔裤
总共需要花的成本为 $5,974.
首先打开一个 ANECALC 工作表 用于收集数据。 并确认你有一些相应的工具包括针步
类型图表, 针距器和皮尺。
.
(1)
(6)
(4)
(6)
(3)
(4)
(2)
(5)
(5)
(7)
确认要被评估的成衣车缝工序的顺序，并把这些写入表
格内。
步骤 1
确认要被评估的成衣车缝工序的顺序，并把这些写
入表格内。
Stitch Drawing
Top View As Sewn
Bottom View As Sewn
ISO 4915 Common
Number Application
Requirements
Stitch Description
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed by 3-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
is interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Looper Thread on Bottom
406
3 Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Looper Thread on Bottom
407
2 Needle Chainstitch with
Cover Thread
Looper Thread on Bottom
408
Attaching Pocket
Facings to Jeans
& Chino Casual
Pants
2 Thread Overedge
Single "purl" on Edge
503
Serging &
Blindhemming
Specify
Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread
1) Width Bite (Ex. with purl on edge of seam for serging or
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") blindhemming ONLY.
2) SPI.
3 Thread Overedge
Most Common Overedge
Stitch
504
Single Needle
Overedge
Seaming
Specify
Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") edge of the seam. For overedge seaming and serging.
2) SPI.
3 Thread Overedge
Double "purl" on Edge
505
Serging with
Double purl on
Edge
Specify
Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a double purl
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") on the edge of the seam for serging ONLY.
2) SPI.
Mock Safety Stitch
2 Needle Overedge
512
Hemming,
Attaching, Elastic,
Binding,
Coverseaming,
Making Belt
Loops
Attaching Elastic
to Men's & Boys
Knit Underwear
Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 2-looper threads with
the stitches set on the underside of the seam. A top
spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the
seam between the two needle threads.
Seaming Stretch Specify SPI.
Knits, Wovens
Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper
threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 512 – right needle only enters the
upper looper loop. Stitch does NOT chain-off as well
as 514 Stitch
Find Drawings at www.amefird.com
步骤 2
在每个相应的工序选择正确的 针步类型和车缝行
数和针距等等。
3/16" or 4.5mm
HE
Inches
fraction
decimal
1/8
0.125
3/16
0.188
1/4
0.250
3/8
0.375
1/2
0.500
5/8
0.625
3/4
0.750
1
1.000
Metric
mm
3.18
4.76
6.35
9.53
12.70
15.88
19.05
25.40
步骤 2
在每个相应的工序选择正确的 针步类型和车缝行
数和针距等等。
步骤 3
在相应的工序中输入相应的车缝长度。
步骤 4
分别填写上针线和底线的种类、颜色和尺寸等等。
步骤 5
继续填写其它工序的资料如以上所述的步骤。
Set Collarette
10 spi
Tape Shoulder & Neck Operation
2 行 401 Chainstitch
Tape Shoulder & Neck Operation
12 stitches per inch
Tape Shoulder & Neck Operation
Seam length = 55cm
Hem Sleeves
SPI = 10 spi
Needle Spacing = 1/4" or 6mm
406 Stitch
Length of Seam = 38cm X 2 since there are 2 Sleeves
Close Sleeves
Stitch = 504 3/16"
Rows = 1
SPI = 10
Length of Seam = 13 cm but there are 2 Sleeves
Set Sleeves
Stitch = 504 3/16"
Rows = 1
SPI = 10
Length of Seam = 60 cm but there are 2 Sleeves
Stitch = 406 1/4"
Rows = 1
SPI = 10
Length of Seam = 56cm X 2 = 112cm
Needle Spacing = 1/4" or 6mm
步骤 6
直接把ANECALC工作表转到ANECALC电子表格。
• 当有时您在使用ANECALC ®有可能需要在表格中增加一
行时，如何做呢？
• 当然类似于我们平常在Excel中增加一行差不多，只是有
一些细节我们要注意。
增加一行,
1. 点击鼠标左键选择左边您要增加一行的位置。
2. 然后再点击鼠标右键选择“ Insert”。.
然后再选择复制(Copy)其中的一行，比如图中的20行。
最后在开始加入的那一行中再选择粘贴(Paste).
现在21 行所复制 的工式是采用20行的，所以我们需要更改它.
对准到需要更改的那一行的下箭号那一格单击鼠标右键便会
显示“Format Control”一栏。
然后再把原先在Format Control一栏
内“Cell Link”中的D20改为D21。
这样便算是增加一行完成了，
您现在可以在里输入一些数据了。
同样对准到需要更改的那一行的下箭号那一格单击
鼠标右键便会显示“Format Control”一栏，然后选择Cut.
这样便那个工式删除了。
做完了“Cut”之后再把整行删除掉。
• 您可以发现Oper# 9已经被删除了。
• ANECALC ®其它的功能类似于 Excel
ANECALC
ANECALC
Men’s Fleece Sweat Shirt
Size: Ex- Large
ANECALC
Men’s Casual Woven
Shirt
Size: Large
continued
Men’s Casual Woven Shirt
continued
ANECALC
ANECALC
Men’s Relaxed Fit 5 Pocket Jean
Size: 34 x 32
continued
Men’s Relaxed Fit 5 Pocket Jean
continued
ANECALC
Baseball Cap
ANECALC
问题 ？