Trimoist
24h hydration and protection
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Concept of the Moisture Balance Theory
Hydrolipid film
Brick and
mortar model
Protecting film
water
water
skin
Trimoist
NMF
lamellar
lipids
humectants
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Structure of the Skin
protecting film
lamellar lipid barrier
humectants
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Structure of the Skin
Stratum corneum
Corneocytes
Intercellular
space
Lipids
Aqueous space
Lipid layer
Ceramides
Phospholipids
Triglycerides
Fatty acids
Cholesterol
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Protein-Glycation
frying, baking, roasting
skin
Maillard-Reaction
Protein glycation
Non-enzymatic interaction of
sugars and proteins at high
temperatures or over a long time
Collagen and elastin react with
sugars -> AGEs (advanced
glycation endproducts)
Brown color
Loss of elasticty, dull and
wrinkled skin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Result of Skin Glycation
• Irreversible cross-links between adjacent protein
molecules
• Cross-linking significantly contributes to the stiffening
and loss of elasticity found in aged tissues
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Formation of AGE's
Collagen
Collagen fibre
Cross-linked and
stiffened collagen
Sugar
Carnosine
With Carnosine: Collagen fibers
are protected and stay elastic
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Glycation and Diabetes
People with diabetes, who have high glucose levels, show
accelerated aging. Results already in young people:
• stiffening connective tissue (collagen)
• hardened arteries
• clouded eyes
• loss of nerve function
• less efficient kidneys
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Formation of AGEs
O
C
O
(C HOH)4
A m adori pro duct
protein
Schiff base
NH2
NH
NH
CH
CH2
(C HOH)4
C
+
CH2 OH
glucose
CH2 O H
O
(CHO H)3
CH2 OH
advanced glycation end products
COO H
Arginine
C H2
NH
N
(CH2 )4 O
NH
CH
CML
C
Lysine
N
N
H
+
N
N+
N
Lysine
Lysine
pentosidine
M O LD
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Anti-Glycation
H
N
H
N
N
Carnosine
O
C
HO
NH2
O
• naturally occurring
• a peptide-like compound with a free amino group
• reacts with the aldehyde or ketone group of
reducing sugars
Competitive inhibitor of AGE's
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Carnosine Prevents Formation of MDA
UV-A
Lipidperoxidation
Malondialdehyde (MDA)
Carnosine
Protein carbonylation,
AGE formation
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Active factors in Trimoist
1 Protecting film
• CM-Glucan
Protecting film, improves skin
elasticity, stimulates self protecting
capacity of the skin
2 Lamellar lipid
structur
•
•
•
•
•
Form a basic lamellar lipid structure in
water
Stearyl lactate
Cetyl alcohol
Oleic acid triglyceride
Phytosterols
Vitamin EAcetate
Enhance the barrier function of the
lamellar lipid layer
3 Humectants
• Glycerin
• Lactate
Bind high levels of water
+ Anti-Glycation
• Carnosine
Reacts with reducting sugars and
thus inhibits formation of AGEs
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Increase in Skin Hydration
5% Hygroplex
5% Trimoist
20.00
Increase in skin hydration (%)
16.00
12.00
8.00
4.00
S-054
0.00
after 3 days
after 5 days
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Increase in Skin Firmness
5% Hygroplex
5% Trimoist
35.00
Increase in skin firmness (%)
30.00
25.00
20.00
15.00
10.00
5.00
S-054
0.00
after 3 days
after 5 days
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Increase in Skin Smoothness
5% Hygroplex
5% Trimoist
8.00
Increase in skin smoothness (%)
7.00
6.00
5.00
4.00
3.00
2.00
1.00
S-054
0.00
after 3 days
after 5 days
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Increase in Skin Hydration
18
Increase in skin hydration [%]
16
14
12
10
8
6
Hydrogel + 1% Trimoist
4
Hydrogel + 2% Trimoist
Hydrogel + 5% Trimoist
2
S-058
0
7 days
Hydrogel + 5% Hygroplex
14 days
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
24 h hydration effect
65
untreated
*
60
*
*
moisture[a. u.]
55
*
emulsionwith 2%
Trimoist
*
50
*
45
40
35
30
25
S-063
20
0
2
4
6
8
12
24
hours after application
*p<0.05 versusuntreated
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Benefits for R & D Staff
1. Trimoist is an active suitable for a great
variety of cosmetic topics:
- Moisturizing
- Anti-Aging
- Firmness
- Protection
- Anti-Glycation
2. Trimoist in an active containing a large
number of up-to date ingredients:
- lamellar lipids
- NMF/Humectants
- Protecting Polysaccharide
- Phytosterols
- Dipeptide (Carnosine)
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Benefits for R & D Staff
3. Trimoist in an active documented with
a large number of dermatological studies :
- Skin Hydration
- Skin Elasticity
- Skin Smoothing
- Film Protection
- Anti-Glycation
- Skin Regeneration
- Antioxidant Status
- Protection against oxidative stress
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Résumé
Trimoist- the 3-step moisturizing system
supports all three elements of the skin's own moisture balance system:
1. Protecting film
CM-Glucan enhances the skin's own defence system and builds a superior protecting
film.
2. Lamellar Lipid barrier
Skin-like Lamellar Lipids enhance the barrier function of the lipid layer in the epidermis
to boost the moisture barrier.
3. Humectants
Glycerin and Lactate mimic the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin to
provide an instant burst of hydration.
 Carnosine
prevents the cross-linking and stiffening of collagen by glycation - the technical term
for the process that leads to a loss of skin-elasticity
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Trimoist
Hydrate and protect your skin with
the 3-Step Moisturizing System of Trimoist…
…keeps skin at its best: softer, smoother, even-toned, visibly less lined.
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
CM-Glucan: Photo Protection
7
Squalene peroxides [units CL]
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
nt
nt
0%
0,04%
0,2%
CM-Glucan
in o/w emulsions
nt
UV-A 10 J/cm
2
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
CM-Glucan: Film Protection
80
Protection relative to untreated skin [%]
Skin humidity
60
40
20
0
0%
0.1%
hydrogel
0.4%
o/w
0.04%
0%
emulsion
CM-Glucan
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007