Marine Science Day 1: Atmospheric Circulation Objectives: What is physical oceanography? What are the layers of the atmosphere? Explain how the surface of the Earth is heated. What are convection cells? What is the Coriolis Effect? Explain the affect of the Coriolis Effect on global wind patterns. Explain how land masses affect global wind patterns Explain the difference between anabatic and katabatic winds. Physical Oceanography The study of physics within the marine environment. This includes: Sound Waves Currents Tides Light How the oceans influence weather and climate Atmosphere The atmosphere is a mixture of gasses that extends about 90 km from the Earth’s surface Differences in the heating of the atmosphere at different latitudes sets the gasses in motion… creating wind Layers of the atmosphere: Trophosphere Stratosphere Mesosphere Thermosphere The atmosphere is composed of: Nitrogen 78% Oxygen 21 % Inert Gasses (argon, helium, neon) 1% Carbon Dioxide (0.03) kidsgeo.com http://forces.si.ed u/atmosphere/04_ 00_01.html Troposphere Lowest Layer Extends from the surface of the earth to an altitude of about 12 km Temperature decreases with altitude at a rate of approximately -10oC for each 1000m of elevation Where weather happens Stratosphere Where the ozone layer floats Ozone Layer: Layer of O3 in the stratosphere that shields life from harmful ultraviolet radiation from the sun Commercial airliners fly in this layer From 12 to 50 km above Earth’s surface Temperature increases with altitude because the ozone layer (O3) absorbs UV radiation from the sun (heat) theozonehole.com Mesosphere From 50-80 km above Earth’s surface Temperature decreases as altitude increases Space debris begins to burn as it enters the mesosphere… shooting stars blaze Thermosphere From 82-640 km above the Earth’s surface Temperature rises Northern and Southern lights occur here greenlandkid.com Heating of the Earth’s Surface Solar radiation from the sun heats the Earth’s surface When the radiation hits Earth it is reflected, absorbed, or reradiated. Heating of the Earth’s Surface The intensity of solar radiation varies with latitude virtualskies.arc.nasa.gov Heat Budget More intense sunlight reaches the equator and the intensity of solar radiation decreases towards to the poles… At high latitudes the same amount of sunlight passes through the atmosphere but the same amount of sunlight is spread over a larger area To maintain a stable long term temperature, the Earth must loose as much heat as it gains Excessive heat from the tropics tends to move to higher latitudes by winds and ocean currents Heat Budget Formation of Convection Cells Non-Rotating Earth Equator receives more heat and has more warm moist air (less dense) As this moist air rises this creates an area of low pressure When moist air rises it condenses forming precipitation The now dry air flows north or south (depending on the hemisphere) and sinks back down at the poles …. Then back to the equator… creating a large convection cells Formation of Convection Cells Rotating Earth The Earth rotates and moves in an easterly direction at a speed of 1674km/hr at the equator The rotation of the Earth affects the movements of the atmosphere, the ocean, and any other object not directly attached to Earth Coriolis Effect: Deflection of objects in movement not directly attached to Earth theozonehole.com mind42.com Surface Wind Bands oneonta.edu Effects of Continents and Seasons Large land masses modify the atmosphere Land masses have a lower heat capacity than water so they absorb and lose heat faster – changes temperature faster 70% of land masses are in the northern hemisphere During the summer, land is warmer than the ocean, causing a low pressure area over land (hot air rises) so there is a continuous low pressure area between 0-60 degrees north During the winter, land is cooler than the oceans, causing a high pressure area over land (cold air sinks) Local Effects Land warms faster during the day and as this warm air rises it is replaced by air from over the ocean creating an on-shore breeze / sea breeze (anabatic wind) At night, the air over land cools faster (sinks) than the ocean, and air flows out toward the ocean creating an off-shore breeze (katabatic wind) This typically creates rain on the windward side of islands… nc-climate.ncsu.edu Atmosphere Video Clip Day 2: Hurricanes Objectives: What are hurricanes? Explain hurricane formation? How are hurricanes measured? Where do hurricanes get their name? environment.nationalgeographic.com Hurricanes Hurricanes are low pressure systems with winds greater than 74mph Named for the location in which they are occurring: Hurricanes are defined as storms over the North Atlantic or the Caribbean In the western Pacific Ocean, hurricanes are known as typhoons. Cyclones are hurricanes over the Indian Ocean. Hurricane Formation Form over warm tropical waters ( sea surface temps greater than 27oC) Low pressure cells that occur in latitudes higher than 5o are set into a circular motion by the Coriolis Effect – this causes a circular pattern (counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere) As the storm grows, the winds evaporate more water (and heat) which fuels the storm and creates a column of fast moving air Hurricanes dissipate/stop when they travel over land because they lose energy spaceplace.nasa.gov windows2universe.org Hurricane Development Tropical Disturbance: Group of thunderstorms with very little wind circulation Tropical Depression: Storm with wind speeds up to 20 to 34 miles per hour Tropical Storm: Storm with wind speeds reach 35-64 miles per hour. Hurricane: When wind speeds reach 74 miles per hour or greater Hurricane Formation= http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/4588149.st m Hurricane Development bom.gov.au Measuring Hurricanes Saffir-Simpson Scale. Scale that measures wind speed and air pressure of a hurricane. Category 1- winds 74-95 mph, 64-82 kt, 119-153 km/h Very dangerous winds will produce some damage: Well-constructed frame homes could have damage to roof, shingles, vinyl siding and gutters. Branches of trees will snap, shallowly rooted trees may be uprooted. Power outages could last a few to several days. Category 2 - winds 96-110 mph, 83-95 kt, 154-177 km/h Extremely dangerous winds will cause extensive damage: Well-constructed frame homes could sustain major roof and siding damage. Shallowly rooted trees will be uprooted and block numerous roads. Near-total power loss is expected - outages that could last from several days to weeks. Category 3 (major)- winds 111-129 mph, 96-112 kt, 178-208 km/h Devastating damage will occur: Well-built framed homes may incur major damage or removal of roof decking and gable ends. Many trees will be snapped or uprooted, blocking numerous roads. Electricity and water will be unavailable for several days to weeks after the storm passes. Category 4 (major) – winds 130-156 mph, 113-136 kt, 209-251 km/h Catastrophic damage will occur: Well-built framed homes can sustain severe damage with loss of most of the roof structure and/or some exterior walls. Most trees will be snapped or uprooted and power poles downed. Power outages will last weeks to possibly months. Most of the area will be uninhabitable for weeks or months. Category 5 (major) - winds 157 mph or higher, 137 kt or higher, 252 km/h or higher Catastrophic damage will occur: A high percentage of framed homes will be destroyed, with total roof failure and wall collapse. Fallen trees and power poles will isolate residential areas. Power outages will last for weeks to possibly months. Most of the area will be uninhabitable for weeks or months. Hurricane Facts Hurricanes may have a diameter of 400 to 500 miles (640-800 kilometers). The “eye” (center) of a hurricane can be up to 20 miles (32 km) across. The weather in the “eye” is surprisingly calm with low winds and clear skies. Hurricanes hit land with tremendous force, bringing huge waves and heavy rain. Many hurricanes cause severe flooding. About 90 percent of the deaths that occur during hurricanes result from drowning in floods. The world’s worst hurricane (for loss of life) took place in 1970 in Bangladesh. That hurricane created a flood that killed more than one million people. Thunderstorms often form within hurricanes and produce tornadoes. Damage from Hurricanes boston.com soest.hawaii.edu sitemaker.umich.edu uta.edu Hurricanes in Media Literacy Movie Raging Planet – Hurricane Hurricane Katrina - National Geographic geology.com Tracking Hurricanes Hugo and Katrina… Hurricane Tracking Video Clip Hurricane Lab Day 3: Oceanic Circulation Objectives: What are the two main types of ocean circulations? Explain the difference between upwelling and downwelling. What are eddies? What is a wave? Label the parts of a wave. Explain the difference between deep and shallow water waves. What is a tsunami? Ocean Currents Ocean Currents: Continuous, directed movement of ocean water generated by forces such as breaking waves, wind, Coriolis Effect, tides, temperature, density and salinity differences Major ocean currents are predictable – they have been described as rivers without banks Types of Currents: Surface – 0-400 meters deep – 10% of ocean currents Deep – below 400 meters – 90% of ocean currents Three major factors set ocean currents in motion: Thermohaline Circulation (density driven) Wind Driven Circulation Changes in Sea Level Thermohaline/Density Driven Circulation Affect deep ocean currents Density differences are occur as a result of temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less salt than cold water so it is less dense and rises toward the surface while cold, salt laden water sinks. As the warm water rises though, the cold water is forced to rise through upwelling and fills the void left by the warm water. When cold water rises, it too leaves a void and the rising warm water is then forced, through downwelling, to descend and fill this empty space, creating thermohaline circulation. Coldest water is at the poles and have higher salinities because of low precipitation and the formation of sea ice Minute changes in density cause large changes in circulation… for this reason, oceanographers measure density to 5 decimal places Demonstration http://www.divediscover.whoi.edu/circulation/demonstration.html Wind-Driven Circulation Wind transfers energy to the water it blows across by the force of friction on the water’s surface Winds cause both surface currents and waves Cause horizontal flow of water. If the wind blows long enough in the same direction, it will cause a water current to develop What happens if the wind then stops blowing? - The current continues to flow until internal friction, or friction with the sea floor, dissipates its energy Global Wind Patterns Gyres Gyres: Large system of rotating ocean currents, particularly those involved with large wind movements. Gyres are caused by the Coriolis Effect There are five major gyres: North Atlantic South Atlantic North Pacific South Pacific Indian Upwelling versus Downwelling Upwelling Downwelling Upward vertical current that A downward vertical current brings deep water to the surface Tends to bring deepwater nutrients up into the shallow water – increasing biological productivity Sometimes upwelling occurs when a wind blowing parallel to shore pushes surface water out to sea due to Ekman Transport Ekman Transport: The net motion of water column down to friction depth Northern Hemisphere =90o to the right Southern Hemisphere = 90o to the left that pushes surface water deep into the ocean Carry nutrients and other essential materials out to the deep ocean – have no dramatic effect on biological productivity Upwelling and Downwelling Deep Ocean e-education.psu.edu Coastal Upwellings and Downwellings eeb.ucla.edu Eddies Gyres flow in a general area but they don’t flow within perfectly defined paths… they can vary due to wind strength Eddies: Swirling currents Caused by friction with adjacent water Can form large circular loops that can temporarily break away: Cold–core eddies – flow counter clockwise in the northern hemisphere Warm-core eddies – flow clockwise in the northern hemisphere Both types can travel slowly for weeks, months, and even years… Eddies are important because: they can affect local temperatures and weather conditions by redistributing heat. commercial fishing boats use eddies to located fish. they can affect ship speeds. The Ocean Conveyor Belt The Ocean Conveyor Belt: The interconnected flow of currents that redistribute heat - AKA the Earth’s Air conditioner It would take one to two thousand years for a drop of water to complete a cycle on the ocean conveyer belt… Changes in Sea Level Sea level: the Average level of the sea’s surface at its mean height between high and low tide Changes in sea level occur in horizontal distances Ocean circulation causes slopes to develop Ex. when a land mass interrupts a current’s flow, water mounds up against the land The slope in the water surface causes a horizontal difference in water pressure The water will tend to flow out due to this difference creating a pressure gradient The steeper the mound of water, the larger and faster the current will be sealevel.jpl.nasa.gov Importance of Ocean Circulation Ocean circulation affects the Earth in many ways: Circulates nutrients and energy throughout the ocean Affects the Earth’s climate Affects the transport and shipping industries. Transport living things like seeds and actual organisms around the globe. Studying Ocean Currents Different Approaches: Lagrangian Method (AKA the Float Method): Studies currents by tracking and drifting an object – floating something in the current that records information as it drifts Eulerian Method (AKA the Flow Method): Studies currents by staying in one place and measuring the velocity of water as it flows past. Flotsam Method: Scientists also take advantage of accidental opportunities to study currents… In 1992 a cargo carrier lost its cargo – 30,000 athletic shoes while enroute to Seattle from Korea. Oceanographers asked the public to report the time, date, and place they found the shoes…. Using this info they were able to improve current models in the north pacific In 1992 a ship lost 29,000 rubber ducks, frogs, and turtles while sailing from China to Seattle. The toys washed up along the north pacific coast at various location from Oregon to Alaska… eventually drifting through the Bering Strait… they are expected to make it New England… none of washed up yet. Ocean Currents Song http://safeshare.tv/w/HfLljJafyJ Day 4: Waves What is a wave? What are the three types of waves? What are the crest, trough, height, wavelength, period, and frequency of a wave? How do wave length and period relate to a wave’s speed? What disturbing forces cause waves? What restoring forces resist waves? Compare shallow water and deep water waves What three factors affect maximum wave size? What causes internal waves? Wave Wave: Transmission of energy through matter When energy moves through matter as a wave, the matter moves back and forth but then it returns to its original position It transmits energy to the adjacent matter (next thing) allowing the energy to continue Example: Dropping a stone in water… Waves ripple away from the splash… the water doesn’t move away only the energy Types of Progressive Waves Progressive Wave: Wave in which energy progresses from one point to another Progressive waves are waves in which there is a direction to the transmission of the wave Can be created by a variety of disturbing forces including: wind, seismic activity, volcanic eruptions, landslides, gravity, or a change in atmospheric pressure 3 Types of Progressive Waves: Longitudinal Transverse Orbital Longitudinal Wave Longitudinal Wave: Matter moves back and forth in the same direction that the energy travels Can move through all states of matter Energy is transmitted through the compression and decompression of particles – like a spring or slinky Example: Sound travels in longitudinal waves spot.pcc.edu Transverse Wave Transverse Wave: Motion of the matter is perpendicular to the direction in which the wave as a whole is moving Example: Ripple in pond Orbital Waves Orbital Waves: Transmit only through fluids as energy moves through the fluid in a circular motion as it passes Waves in the ocean are orbital waves kingfish.coastal.edu Wave Terminology Wavelength: The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs Crest: Highest part of the wave Trough: Lowest part of the wave Height: Vertical distance between 2 successive crests or troughs Period: The time it takes for 2 troughs or 2 crests to pass a fixed point Frequency: The number of waves or crests/troughs that pass a fixed point each second Celerity: Speed of the wave - equal to the wavelength ÷ period outreach.phas.ubc.ca asdk12.org Waves and Mathematics Wave characteristics can be expressed mathematically Speed = wavelength ÷period or S = L ÷ T Ratio of wave height to wavelength – H:L Wavelength (L: Depth in meters) Period (T: Time in seconds) Speed (S: Speed in meters per second) Wave Height (H: Height in meters) Example: If in a given wave, T=20s and L=200m, what is the speed of the wave? S=200m ÷ 20s + 10m/s Wave Formation Disturbing Forces: Forces that cause waves Restoring Forces: Forces that resist waves The intensity and duration of a disturbing force and the interaction of restorative forces give waves their characteristics Fluids tend to remain at rest – they only move when something imparts energy on them – disturb them Disturbing forces that cause ocean waves include wind, changes in gravity, and seismic activity (volcanoes and earthquakes) Restorative forces include gravity, Coriolis effect, and surface tension Wave Classification Based on Resisting Forces Capillary Waves: Primary force acting on them is surface tension First to form when wind blows across still water Gravity Waves: Waves in which the weight of the wave is pulled by gravity Most waves that concern us in oceanography are gravity waves Wave Patterns Waves tends to organize themselves into patterns Waves that are not organized travel at different speeds and longer waves outrun the shorter waves… eventually only waves of the same length are left travelling together Swell: The rise and fall of a uniform wave pattern on the sea Wave Trains: Groups of swells with similar characteristics that tend to travel together in groups The first wave gradually looses energy, which is picked up by new waves forming in the trailing portion of the train When wave trains reach shallow water, the individual and group speeds become the same Waves at Different Depths Depth affects wave characteristics Deepwater Waves: Occur in water that is deeper than half their wavelength No interaction from the bottom can affect the wave characteristics Their orbital motion progresses unaffected Capillary waves are almost always deep water wave Mostly wind driven Transitional Waves: Occur in depths between one-half and one-twentieth the wavelength At depths that are one-fourth the wavelength, the bottom of the ocean creates a drag that affects the orbital motion –flattens the circular motion into an ellipse Shallow-water Waves: Occur in waters that are shallower than one-twentieth the wavelength Wavelength and speed are dependent on depth, as friction with the sea floor slows down the wave – the wave behind continues at the original speed and the wavelength decreases – this causes the height of the wave to increase Waves break when they reach a height of 1:7 (height: length) Tides are usually shallow water waves Waves at Different Depths Factors Affecting Wind Wave Growth Wind Speed Wind must be blowing faster than the wave to give it energy Duration Length of time wind blows in a single direction Fetch Surface over which the wind blows Large the surface area, the greater the energy transfer, the bigger the waves Fully Developed Sea: Maximum wave size has been reached (disturbing and restoring forces counterbalance) Rouge Wave: Theorized to result from the interaction of two closely related wave trains Deadliest Catch – Rogue Wave Rogue Wave Deadliest Catch Interaction of Wave Trains In-Phase: Crest and troughs of different trains coincide and make larger waves If this happens against the current REALLY LARGE waves like rogue waves can form AKA Constructive Interference Out-of-Phase: Crest of one train coincides with troughs of others the waves cancel each other out This is how calm seas can occur during strong winds AKA Destructive Interference teachgreenbk.wordpress.com Breaking Waves As a wave approaches shore, the bottoms of ocean begins to affect to orbit of the wave As the wave continues to move forward the friction with the bottom causes the wave to slow down and the wavelength decreases and wave height increase Waves break when they reach a height of 1:7 (height to length) because the crest is travelling faster than the trough making the wave unstable and its crest topples forward Types of Breaking Waves Type of breaker depends on slope of shore and speed Spilling Breakers: Occur on wide flat beaches and lose energy gradually (longer ride for surfers) Plunging Breakers: Occur on narrow steep beach slopes and loose energy faster – have a characteristic curl (more exciting ride for surfers) Surging Breakers: Occur on very abrupt shores with no opportunity for break – no surfing – very destructive booksite.academicpress.com Wave Deformation: Refraction Refraction: Bending of waves as they approach shore at an angle Crest closest to shore slows sooner creating uneven slowing and the waves refract or bend until they face the shore more squarely slowly and evenly answers.com Wave Deformation: Diffraction Diffraction: When waves pass an obstacle and energy shifts in the wave allowing a new wave pattern to form past the obstacle or through an opening Example: Waves in well protected harbor geographyfieldwork.com Wave Deformation: Reflection Reflection: Occurs when waves hit an obstacle and the wave retains most of its energy and bounces back toward the open water Examples of obstacles include cliffs or seawalls Can cause standing waves – when water rocks back and forth on the edges but remains motionless in the center or node (like when you bump a cup of liquid like a coffee cup) Destructive Waves 3 Types of waves are noted for their destructive power: Storm Surge: Destructive wave or wall of water that forms when high winds push water up against the shore where it piles up. The shallower the water offshore and further it extends offshore, the greater the surge (this is why the Gulf Coast has the biggest storm surges) – common with hurricanes Seiche: Standing wave that forms in large bays and lakes as a wave rocks back and forth Can result from strong winds that push water levels up one side of a bay (this is actually common in the great lakes) Tsunami: Sudden water displacement caused by landslide, volcanic eruption, iceberg calving, or most commonly an earthquake These are also called tidal waves (even though their not caused by tides) Not that large at sea but as they approach shoe it becomes much higher Tsunami Seiche seagrant.umn.edu fromtheleft.wordpress.com Storm Surge nhc.noaa.gov Day 5 Tides Objectives: What causes tides? How does Newton’s Equilibrium Theory of Tides differ from Laplace’s Dynamic Theory? What factors influences/affect tides? What are diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed tides? What are tidal currents and a tidal bore? What are the relative positions of the sun and moon during spring tides and neap tides? Tides Tides: Daily variations in the ocean’s sea level Result from the gravitational pull of the moon, the sun, and the rotation of the Earth Those forces pull ocean water into a huge wave with a wavelength the size of the ocean basin (or half the circumference of the Earth) therefore, the waves are always shallow water and their speed is controlled by the depth of the water They are “forced” waves as they are always under the forces from which they were generated Tides “Simplified” The sun and the moon create two bulges on opposite sides of the Earth. The relative positions of the sun and moon change slowly so the bulge rotates around the Earth. As a coastline rotates into the bulge, the tide rises – as it rotates out, the tide falls. science.howstuffworks.com Tidal Theories Equilibrium Theory Dynamic Theory Proposed by Isaac Newton Proposed by Pierre-Simon The gravitational pull of the Laplace and modified Newton’s theory There are several tidal bulges because in addition to lunar and solar gravity the imperfect sphere of the Earth, the season, the time of the month, the shape of the ocean basin, the Coriolis effect all influence tides. sun and moon create two bulges of water on either side of the Earth. Assumes the Earth is perfectly uniform, that the water is VERY deep, and that there are no land masses Problem = too simple web.vims.edu Tidal Patterns The shape and depth of the ocean basins affect tidal patterns. Large wide basins tend to have a smaller tidal range than narrow, shallower basins. Diurnal Tides: Single high and low tide daily Ex. Gulf of Mexico Semidiurnal Tides: Roughly two high and low tides daily Ex. East Coast Mixed Tides: Two unequally high and low tides daily Ex. West Coast geocaching.com tideclocks.com Tidal Currents Daily tides create a current that flows into and out of bays, rivers, harbors and other restricted spaces Inflow is called flood current Outtflow is called slack current Midpoint between high and low tide creates a slack tide (where little water is moving) These currents are very important to the people in live in or around these areas For example: large ships may only enter or leave some harbors at high tide. sailing vessels often use slack currents to take advantage of the flow carrying them seaward. Tidal Bore Tidal Bore: Incoming tide produces a wave that flows into a river, bay, or other narrow opening This is a true “tidal wave” Can be several meters high Example: Happens in the Amazon River and Severn River in Englad Surfer on the Amazon Tidal Bore voyagner.com The Sun, Moon, and Types of Tides Solar and lunar gravity affect the tides differently, depending on the positions of the sun and moon relative to the Earth The moon has twice the influence of the sun on the tides Sun has a greater gravity but is farther away than the moon Spring Tides: When the sun, the moon, and the Earth are in- line it creates the highest and lowest tides This occurs during a new moon (no moon visible) and a full moon Neap Tides: Weak tides created when the moon is in quarter phase and the lines from the moon and the sun to the Earth form a right angle. The sun’s gravitation pulls to the side of the moon’s tidal bulge which tends to raise the low tide and lower the high tide. Solar and Lunar Tides Animation iupui.edu Spring Tide vs. Neap Tide windows2universe.org