History of fashion in australia - adams

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HISTORY OF FASHION IN
AUSTRALIA
INTRODUCTION
When the First Fleet arrived in Australia, the living conditions were
totally different from those in England. The climate was hot and dry
and the environment was harsh. Unfortunately, the people still wore
the same clothes as they did in England. It took over 200 years for the
more practical clothing to develop.
Women’s clothing has had drastic changes during this time. Men’s
fashion has also changed, however not so greatly. They have had
modifications on shirts and pants.
1788-1800
 Fashion was that of England and France
 Convict men and women were poorly dressed and wore the same clothes for many days
 Convicts were issued with uniforms, but it was difficult to clothe all convicts in the
uniform as it was hard to get supplies from England.
• Female convicts – brown serge jacket, petticoat, neckerchief, cap, linen shift,
stockings and shoes
• Male convicts – blue jacket and waistcoat, heavy duty trousers, linen shirt, long
socks, woollen cap
 Just before the turn of the century, the pannier was abolished and the dress became much
more simple – women gave up some of their underskirts to create a more sensible and
comfortable clothing style.
1788 - 1800
Women
Men
Pannier skirts – high, wide and voluminous
skirts
Underskirts – decorated with ribbons and
frills
Low neck bodice
Plain for working class – also wore an
apron and mop hat
Upper class – wore fine fabrics with
scarves and parasols
Hats were high-crowned and decorated
with lace and ribbons
Cabbage tree hat first appeared in 1799
Upper class – skirted coats, close-fitting
breaches, richly embroidered waistcoats,
white silk stockings and wigs, also
powdered their hair
1788 - 1800
1800 - 1810
 Fashion was still based on those of England and France, however they began
to suit the Australian environment
Women
Men
Long flowing empire line for the fashionconscious women
Bodices had low neck line and short sleeves
Skirts were long and flowing with much less
volume
Pantaloons or tights replaced petticoats
Shawls and parasols were as a fashion
statement and sun protection
Working class – smocks and aprons (skirts
were still long flowing)
Upper class – fashion remained unchanged
Free settler men – trousers, loose-sleeved
shirts, leather aprons, long socks, leather
boots, cabbage tree hats
1810 - 1820
 French fashion influences continued, with a more romantic look
for females
Females
Males
Empire line was still popular
Skirt became narrower and straighter
Hemlines became flared with flounces
Skirt length was raised to the ankle
Round-toed shoes, boots or sandals with
pink stockings
Puffed sleeves and decorative trimmings
Very high hats
Trousers became popular
Convicts were issued with loose trousers
and jackets made from coarse woollen cloth
1820 - 1830
 Fashion started to turn back in time and was influenced by the 16th century, regardless
of the harsh Australian climate.
Females
Males
Tight corsets were worn
Skirts became full and wide – hourglass figure
Bustles were worn at the back
Hemlines reached the ground and decorated with
frills and lace
Leg-of-mutton sleeves – tight between wrist and
elbow and full at the shoulder
Muffs were carried, fans essential
Hats were very large and highly decorated with
feathers, flowers and ribbon
Shoes – square-toed, half boots, buttoned or
laced just above the ankle
White trousers
Knee-length jackets tightened at the waist
Top hats, same colour as jackets
Cravats replaced collars
Stocks carried by upper class
Working class – same as previous
1830 - 1840
Females
Males
Wide skirts, covering layers of petticoats
Hemlines raised just above the ground
Waistlines tight and pointed
Bodices wide and low for evening wear
During the day – necklines were covered
with ruffs and frills
Wide flat collars worn over the shoulders
Capes worn outdoors
Muffs, fans, flowers and leg-of-mutton
sleeves still popular
Lower class – reflected the fashions of the
upper class but simplified styles, duller
colours, practical fabrics
Trousers – tight fitting or worn loose over
boots
Double-breasted frock-coat
Dark colours
1840 - 1850
Females
Males
Longer, wider skirts
Horsehair crinoline
Low-pointed waistlines, low pointed
bodices
Sleeves were tight-fitting all the way
from the shoulder
Shawls were popular and fringed
Bonnets worn as sun protection and
tied under the chin
Off-the-shoulder evening wear
Frock coat still fashionable but worn
over the top of a contrasting
waistcoat
Trousers varied in shape
1850 - 1860
The discovery of gold led to the gold rush in Australia. People came from all over the
world, bringing their own ideas and ways of life, greatly influencing women’s fashion.
Petticoats and horsehair crinolines could not create the widths that women wanted
from their skirts. Cage-like crinolines were made of steel and whalebone and were
sewn into petticoats to provide support for skirts. Some skirts reached ridiculous
widths and became a problem for women to wear. In Paris and Europe, brighter
colours became fashionable, so brighter clothing was introduced into Australian
fashion.
1850 - 1860
Females
Males
Very wide skirts
Steel and whalebone crinolines
Long pantaloons with lace and frills
Sleeves varied in shape
Bonnets decreased in size
Bright colours
Remained much the same
Gold diggers – dark blue shirt,
trousers, boots, neck scarf, widebrimmed hat. Loose fitting sleeves that
were rolled at the sleeves, trousers
tucked into books.
1860 – 1870
Steel crinolines were still popular with skirts of enormous sizes.
Brighter colours continued to grow in popularity.
The ‘Sydney Sac’ was introduced in male fashion and was acceptable
for town wear. In the bush, men wore sensible clothes to protect
them from the environment. Bushranging was big in this era and they
wore similar clothes to bushmen.
1860 – 1870
Females
Males
Skirts became enormous – they were flatter
at the front but fuller at the back
Skirts often had long trains of fabric at the
back
Steel and whalebone crinolines still used
Fitted bodice and tight waistlines
Necklines – low for evening, high for
daytime
Bright colours
Hats – tall with small brims
High-heeled boots with bright coloured
stockings
Full frock-coats
Short jackets that buttoned only at the neck
Matching colours for trousers and coats
‘Sydney Sac’ - loose fitting coat and baggy
trousers
Bushmen –Loose fitting shirt, buckskin
trousers, boots and wide-brimmed cabbage
tree hat
1870 - 1880
This decade was the beginning of fashion being designed to meet people’s needs.
Females
Males
Width of skirt disappeared – skirts were still flat
at front and full at the back
A bustle was worn under the skirt to create
fullness
Tight fitting bodice – narrow waists
Polonaise – long buttoned coat-gown which was
buttoned to the waist then falling into a skirt. The
skirt was split and each front was pulled back so
you could see the underskirt
Hats and bonnets smaller but highly decorated
Bright colours
Stockings colours matched dress colours.
Narrower trousers
Jackets and trousers contrasted in colour
Breeches were introduced for bicycle riding
Working men - anything was acceptable as long
as it was comfortable
1880 – 1890
Female
Male
Bustles became more extreme
Much the same as previous decades
‘Langtry’ bustle – made of metal bands that Sporting clothes became more popular
rose when a woman sat down and dropped
back into place when she stood up, making
sitting easier. It made dresses look very full at
the back.
Evening wear – highly decorated
Day wear – more masculine
Long plain buttoned coats completely
covered outfits
Hats and bonnets were high
Black stockings replaced bright ones.
1890 - 1900
A complete change in fashion occurred
Female
Male
Bustle disappeared
Corselette appeared – simple, ankle
length petticoat without frills
Closer fitting dresses
Floor length skirt
Daytime – high necked and longsleeved
Night – elaborate, low necklines, short
sleeves, off the shoulder
Embroidered and coloured stockings
Dark colours
Dark suit with waistcoat
Bowler hat
fob watch
Larrikins – people who would not
conform to dress codes (male and
female)
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