MILADY
HAIRCOLOR
Categories. Chemistry. Formulating. Techniques.
Week 1
Week 2
TUESDAY-Safety; Intro; Hair structure
TUESDAY- Consultation; Mixing;
Strand test
WEDNESDAY- Color wheel;
Formulation
THURSDAY- Color categories
WEDNESDAY- Lighteners; Techniques
THURSDAY- Color Correction;
Fillers & Grey coverage
FRIDAY- Lighteners/toners
FRIDAY- Tips & Review
Safety Precautions
• Administer patch test.
• Do not apply if abrasions are present.
• Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
• Use disinfected applicators and tools.
• Do not brush hair prior to service.
• Drape properly.
• Read and follow all manufacturer’s directions.
• Perform strand test.
• Do not overlap product during retouch.
• Use glass or plastic bowl or plastic bottle.
• Use mild, acid-balanced shampoo.
• Wear protective gloves.
• Always wash hands before and after serving each client.
• Do not let color get in eyes.
• Haircolor: a professional,
industry-coined term
referring to products and
services for artificially
coloring the hair
• Hair color: refers to the
natural color of the hair
WHY DO PEOPLE COLOR THEIR HAIR?
• Cover up or blend grey hair
• Change
• Enhance an existing hair color
• Create a fashion statement
• Correct unwanted tones
• Accentuate a haircut
Remember to discuss WHY
someone wants to change their
hair color
FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- Hair Structure
Does not effect hair color
All chemical changes; Protein; Melanin
Effects choice of color strength; How well color takes/lasts
FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
D- Density Amount per square inch
FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
E- Elasticity Ability to stretch
FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
P- Porosity Low, Average, High; Determines how long color lasts & takes
FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
T- Texture
Diameter; Cuticle layers; amount of melanin/pigment; determines strength of product
FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
H- Hair History
Determines steps, technique, color type, achievability
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Is their hair previously colored?
What kind of color: professional or over the counter?
How long ago was the last color?
Any highlights or lightener visible or underneath?
What kind of water?
How many color applications do they receive monthly?
Is hair to shoulders or longer? ( longer hair still has color on it )
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• What are some Safety precautions to
take?
• What is the difference between hair color
and haircolor?
• 3 main parts of the hair?
• Why is hair texture so important when
doing a chemical service?
Tuesday
• How does porosity effect haircolor?
• What are some things to discuss about
hair history?
NATURAL HAIR COLOR/ PIGMENT- Melanin
In side the Cortex
EUMELANIN
Brown/Black
Bigger oval shaped
less- quicker to
remove
PHEOMELANIN
Red/Blonde
Diffused, smaller, rod
shaped- harder to
remove
NATURAL HAIR
COLOR - mixture
HAIR COLOR LEVELS
Level System identifies lightness or darkness
• Hair color ranges from 1-10 or 1-12
• Level 1 being the darkest; Level 12
being the lightest
• Each level has underlying tones that are
exposed when formulating
• All the underlying tones & levels live
on the Color Wheel
HAIR COLOR LEVELS
Finding your Guests natural level
• Always identify in center back of
head
• Area is less exposed to
environmental factors
• Shows true level
• Determine % of grey
• Match with swatch
• Communicate with your guest
GREY HAIR- Loss of pigment
• Grey hair requires special
attention
• The lack of pigment/depth can
cause hair to appear lighter if
not formulated correctly
• Determine % of grey to
correctly formulate
• Grey hair can be from age,
genes, stress
HAIR COLOR LEVELS ON COLOR WHEEL
Contributing Pigment results
from MELANIN in the cortex
THE COLOR WHEEL & LAW OF COLOR- Never changes
PRIMARY
CAN NOT be made;
makes up every color
NEUTRAL
SECONDARY
Mixing Primary in EQUAL parts
TERTIARY
Mixing neighboring Primary &
Secondary colors
THE COLOR WHEEL & LAW OF COLOR- Never changes
COMPLEMENTARY COLORS:
Opposite each other on Color Wheel; Cancel
N.E.I
NEUTRAL
• NEUTRALIZE: Complementary
color
• ENHANCE: Color on either side of
level chosen
• INTENSIFY: Add more of what
occurs naturally at that level
Tone- Warm, Cool, Neutral
CENTER is NEUTRAL:
Balance of warm and cool
mixture of all primary colors
THE COLOR WHEEL & CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
FACTORS WHEN FORMULATING:
• It matters what level YOU ARE
LIFTING TO not the level you
started with
• Deciding whether to N.E.I. your
exposed contributing pigment
• Is their hair previously colored
• Do they have any grey ?
FORMULATION STEPS
1. Natural Level
2. Desired Level
3. Canvas Level
(what's on the hair now)
NEUTRAL
4. Dominant Pigment
AT DESIRED
LEVEL
5. Percentage of grey
• Decide on Color Line/choice
• Do you have to remove any
artificial color
• What volume of developer
• Covering grey
GREY HAIR GUIDELINES
• Grey hair requires special attention
• The lack of pigment/depth can cause hair to appear
lighter if not formulated correctly
• Adding a NEUTRAL ( N ) allows desired color to
“anchor” in the hair
• ALL 3 PRIMARY colors need to be present for grey
hair color formula to appear balanced & saturated
• If RYB are not present, the true tonality of desired
color will appear lighter & brighter:
(red based color with no Neutral = pinkish tones)
% of GREY
% of NEUTRAL ( N )
25% GREY
.25 or ¼ oz N
50% GREY
.50 or ½ oz N
75% GREY
.75 or ¾ oz N
100% GREY
1 oz N
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• Where does melanin live?
• What are the types of melanin?
• What is the Level System and what does it identify?
• Best place to find someones natural level?
• How does the level system relate to the color wheel?
• What gets exposed as you lift the hair?
Wednesday
• 3 Primary colors?
• Complementary colors do what?
• What do you need in order for grey to cover? How do
you know how much to add?
COLOR CATEGORIES- Oxidative & Non Oxidative
• Temporary
• Direct Dye
• Semi-permanent
• Demi-permanent
• Permanent
COLOR CATEGORIES- Temporary
• NON oxidative
• Large color molecule
• Does not alter structure of
hair
• Coats/Stains the hair shaft
• Lasts shampoo to shampoo
• Examples: rinses, color hair
spray, color mascara, hair
chalk
• Longevity depends on
porosity
COLOR CATEGORIES- Direct Dye
• A type of Semi-permanent
• NON oxidative
• Large color molecule
• Does not alter structure of hair
• Coats/Stains the hair shaft
• No developer: what you see is
what you get
• Fantasy Colors
• Lasts SEVERAL shampoos
• Responds best on Pre-lightened
hair
• Longevity depends on porosity
COLOR CATEGORIES- Semi-Permanent
• NON oxidative
• Medium color molecule
• Deposit only
• Does not alter structure of hair
( cortex )
• Penetrates hair shaft; stains
cuticle
• Fantasy Colors
• Correct unwanted tones
• Lasts SEVERAL shampoos
• Responds best on Pre-lightened
hair
• Patch test
• Longevity depends of porosity
COLOR CATEGORIES- Demi-Permanent
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Oxidative
Needs developer
Med-Small color molecule
Partially developed dye
molecule- PREoxidative
Deposit only- NO lifting
Low or no ammonia
Grey blending/color refresh
Little to no damage
Great for changes that aren’t
permanent
Adds shine
Toner
Filler
Requires patch test
COLOR CATEGORIES- Permanent
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Oxidative
Needs developer
Smallest color molecule
Colorless dye precursorANALINE DERIVITIVE
Opens cuticle
Chemical change ( alters cortex )
Permanently changes hair color
LIFTS & DEPOSITS
Grey Coverage
Removes natural pigment &
replaces it with artificial pigment
Lasts until new growth
Can give up to 4 levels of lift
Only lifts on virgin hair
GRADUAL COLORS- Over the counter color
“One size fits all color”
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Progressive / Metallic
pH of 11 & up
Unknown volume
1 formula - 10 min color ??
Wax Petroleum Light reflective ingredients
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Deposits Color film
High amount of ammonia & pigment
Old / expired
ProgressiveCoats follicle- removes shine
Highly reactive with chemicals (h2o2)
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Not cost effective
Lead, silver, copper
Sulfate, acetate, citrate, bisulfite
Hydrolyzation = melting
Drys & suffocates
Straw feeling = high porosity
NATURAL HAIRCOLOR- Henna
Derived from the plant Lawsonia inermis
The leaves are harvested and dried
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Henna" All natural, all organic " - HA!!!
Chemically processed
Mixed with metallic salts
Builds up, suffocates
Changes protein color
Can not be removed
Stains hair
Can take 1-6 hours to develop
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Mud like coating
Mixed with water, coffee or tea
Can cause dermatitis
White henna - magnesium
carbonate-highly alkaline ( "
alternative " )
DEVELOPERS- Oxidizing agent
Developers and Color is LEVELS OF LIFT
DEVELOPER
LEVELS OF LIFT
10 VOLUME ( 3% )
Deposit; up to 1 level
20 VOLUME ( 6% )
Up to 2 levels of lift
30 VOLUME ( 9%)
Up to 3 levels of lift
40 VOLUME ( 12%)
Up to 4 levels of lift
Developers and Lightener is SPEED
3%
6%
9% 12%
Hydrogen Peroxide
pH between 2.5- 4.5
• Do you want to walk, jog, run or sprint?
• 10 will get you there, 40 will get you there
• But always maintain the integrity of the hair
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• What are the color categories?
• How do know when to choose which one?
• Which is the largest molecule?
• Which is pre oxidative or partially developed?
• What is main ingredient in Developer?
Thursday
• What is the difference between lightener and
developer VS color and developer?
• Some things you learned about Gradual colors?
• Some things you learned about Natural
Haircolor?
LIGHTENERS
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Color CAN NOT remove color
Bleach- Professional term: Lightener
Remove hair color ( natural melanin )
Remove artificial haircolor
Lighten & brighten
Ideal to use for more than 4 levels of lift
on virgin hair
On and off scalp applications
Decolorize/Disperse melanin & pigment
Exposes underlying pigment
Opens cuticle
Over processing; No over lapping
Do NOT lift past pale yellow
Shampoo cap
WHEN IN DOUBT BLEACH IT OUT
HAIRCOLOR DECOLORIZATION
PALE
YELLOW
7
YELLOW
6
RED
ORANGE
ORANGE
5
4
3
RED
BLACK
BROWN
2
1
• During the DECOLORIZATION PROCESS, there are only 7 stages of lightening
that OUR EYES can detect.
• Decolorizing the hair exposes the UNDERLYING PIGMENT/ CONTRIBUTING
PIGMENT
TONERS
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N.E.I – Neutralize. Enhance. Intensify
Used to correct unwanted tones
When going darker
Seal the cuticle
Add shine
Works best on Pre-lightened hair
Only tone at the Level you are at
Semi/Demi permanent
Lifting Past Pale Yellow
• Hair will become mushy.
• Hair will lose elasticity.
• Hair will be harsh and brittle when dry.
• Hair will often suffer breakage.
• Hair will often not accept toner.
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• What is the purpose of Lighteners?
• How do you know when to choose lightener
over color?
• Why is the decolorization process important
to understand?
• What is a toner?
Friday
• How do you know what level of toner to use?
• What happens if you lift past pale yellow?
CONSULTATION
• Book 15 minutes of additional time.
• Have client fill out record card.
• Conduct in proper lighting.
CONSULTATION
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D.E.P.T.H. – Density. Elasticity. Texture. Hair History ( most important )
Proper draping
Proper lighting
Have visuals
Communicate on ALL possible outcomes
BE HONEST!
Lifestyle: Career, hobbies etc.
Maintenance required/upkeep
How they style at home
Proper home care products & steps
Grey coverage VS Grey blending
What color line & developer
Can their hair handle the service?
Color staining on the skin
Proper way to shampoo color services
REMEMEMBER to record formula & or any challenges
COMMUNICATE. COMMUNICATE. COMMUNICATE!!
Mixing Permanent Haircolor
• Applicator bottle: Bottle
must be large enough for
color and developer; mix
according to
manufacturer’s directions.
• Brush and bowl: Use
nonmetallic bowl. Pour
developer first, then
product; blend thoroughly.
Double-Process Haircolor
• Hair Lightening – bleaching or decolorizing.
• Double-process high-lift coloring – two step blonding.
• Prelightening – applied the same as hair lightening.
Preliminary Strand Test/ Patch Test
• Watch for discoloration or breakage.
• Reconditioning may be required.
• Increased strength or processing time may be required.
• Patch test is required 24 to 48 hours in advance of
application.
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• Something to consider in a consultation?
• What does DEPTH stand for?
• What 2 ways can you apply color?
• What is considered a Double Process?
• What is a strand test? why is it important?
Tuesday
• What is a patch test? why is it important?
Three Types of Lighteners
• Oil
– On-the-scalp lightener
• Powder
– On/ Off-the-scalp lightener
• Activators: increase lightening
ability
• Cream
– On-the-scalp lightener
OIL
CREAM
POWDER
On-the-Scalp Lighteners
POWDER
• Mildest
• Appropriate for one to two levels of
lift
• Give some protection to hair and scalp
• More control from thickeners
• Help prevent overlapping
OIL
CREAM
Powdered Off-the-Scalp Lighteners
• Not applied to scalp
• Strong enough for blonding
• Called quick lighteners
• Contain oxygen-releasing boosters
• Dry out more quickly than other
lighteners
• Expand and spread out during
processing
Time Factors for Processing
• Darker hair has more melanin and takes longer
to lighten.
• Porosity influences timing.
• Tone influences timing.
• Strength of product influences timing.
• Heat leads to quicker lightening.
Lightener Retouch
• Lighten new growth first.
• Begin in the back, where natural level is darker
• Do hairline last because of density and “baby
hairs”
• Use cotton if needed
• Cover to keep moist
• DO NOT OVER LAP
• Use a lower volume or shampoo cap to “freshen
midshaft”
Highlighting/Lowlights
• Highlights- lighter
• Reverse lights- lowlights
• Color some strands lighter or darker than
natural color
• Adds variety of lighter shades and illusion of
depth
• Can be subtle or stand out
• Light colors cause the light to advance
toward the eye, to appear larger, and to make
details more visible.
• Darker colors recede, appear smaller
Cap Technique
• This technique involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with
a thin plastic or metal hook. The number of strands pulled through the cap
determines the degree of highlighting achieved.
Foil Technique
• This technique involves coloring selected strands by slicing or weaving out
sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or
permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the wrap.
WHISPER
TALK
SHOUT
Foil Techniques
SLICE
BOLD WEAVE FINE WEAVE
• Always WEAVE the
hairline/perimeter
• Fine Weave- natural & sunkissed
• Babylight- Micro-weave
• Bold Weave- Skip weave;
brighter
• Slice- bold, streaky
• Chunky- Back to back slices, NO
hair in between
• WHISPER, TALK, SHOUT
Baliage/ Balayage
• Baliage: involves painting product onto clean, styled hair; also
known as the free-form/ handpainting technique
OLD SCHOOL
NEW SCHOOL
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• What are the types of lighteners?
• Which is best for fragile hair or a sensitive
scalp?
• What is the cut off time for lightener?
• What are some techniques that involve
lightener?
Wednesday
• What happens if you overlap lightener?
• What are some Foil Techniques?
Toning Highlighted and
Dimensionally Colored Hair
• Decolorize to desired level.
• Consider porosity and pigmentation.
• Can only tone to the level you lift to!!!!!!!!
• Avoid affecting untreated hair.
• Use nonoxidative toner.
• Use traditional semipermanent color.
• Use no-lift, deposit-only demipermanent color that will not
cause additional lightening.
Highlighting Shampoos
• Used when slight change in color is desired
• Works best on dark to medium blonde to light brown
• Used to highlight natural color in a single application
• Subtle changes
• Used to cancel pigment or enhance pigment
• Grey hair is missing YELLOW; still has BLUE and
RED.
• Grey hair will be warm when lifted because of the
BLUE and RED
• White hair is NO PIGMENT: Yellow tint is from
natural shade of keratin
Discoloration Causes
Yellow
• Discoloration
Smoking
Causes
• Medication
• Sun exposure
• Some styling aids
• Orange- Hypothyroidism
• Red/Orange- Iron in water
• Green – Copper in water
Formulating for Gray Hair
• Level 9 or lighter may not give
complete coverage.
• Level 7 or darker can be used to
create pastel and blond tones.
• For 80 percent to 100 percent natural
gray, blond is more flattering than
darker tones.
• When coloring salt and pepper to
darker, color on color will make
darker shade.
• Client personality
• Personal preferences
• Amount and location of gray
hair
Tips for Gray Coverage
Presoftening
• Use 20 or 30 volume
• Old School technique
• Process color for full 45 minutes.
• Used to be developer ( acidic )
• Add neutral to formulaNEED ALL 3 PRIMARY COLORS
% of GREY
% of NEUTRAL ( N )
25% GREY
.25 or ¼ oz N
50% GREY
.50 or ½ oz N
75% GREY
.75 or ¾ oz N
100% GREY
1 oz N
• Can use COLOR ALONE on
resistant areas then apply formula
on top
• Shampoo with clarifying first.
• Some companies make additives:
pure pigment with 3 primaries
added to hair or formula
Rules for Effective Color Correction
• Do not panic.
• Determine true
problem.
• Determine cause of
problem.
• Develop a solution.
• Take one step at a time.
• Never guarantee
results.
• Always strand-test for
accuracy.
Damaged Hair Characteristics
• Rough texture
• Overporous condition
• Brittle and dry to touch
• Susceptible to breakage
• No elasticity
• Spongy and matted when wet
• Color fading or absorbing too
rapidly
Damaged Hair Treatments
• Use penetrating conditioner.
• Normalize pH with finishing
rinse.
• Postpone further chemical
services.
• Perform between-service
conditioning.
• Recommend retail products for
home maintenance.
Fillers- “Fills in holes”
• Conditioner fillers: used to recondition
damaged, overly porous hair
( Think Olaplex or Kera-triplex)
• Color fillers: used to equalize porosity and
deposit color in one application
( Used when going darker )
REPIGMENTATION
REPIGMENTATION/FILLER
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When going 4 or more shades darker
“ FILL” with missing PRIMARY colors
Allows for a uniform, consistent end result
Prevents greenish dull tones when going back
to natural color
Evens out porosity
REPIGMENT 2 levels LIGHTER then the
desired end result
Apply to pre-lightened areas, process, rinse
Apply desired shade after repigmentation has
been applied
Semi/Demi permanent
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• What is a highlighting shampoo?
• Some tips with Grey hair?
• Why does grey hair ( or any hair ) turn
different colors?
• What is something to consider in a color
correction?
Thursday
• How do you know if someone has damaged
hair?
• What are the 2 types of fillers?
• Why do you need to repigment?
Tips for Redheads
• Use red-orange base to create
warm, coppery reds.
• Use red-violet for hot, fiery reds.
• Use no-lift, deposit-only color to
refresh.
• If gray is present, add 1/2 to 1 oz of
a natural color.
• Refresh with a soap cap to brighten
color.
Tips for Brunettes
• Use cool blue base to avoid brassy tones.
• Do not lighten more than two levels above natural color to avoid brassy tones.
• Add 1 oz of natural color to cover gray.
• Natural highlights should be deep or caramel colored.
Tips for Blondes
• Watch out for underlying, unwanted
warm tones when lightening from
brown to blond.
• Use level 7 or darker to cover gray.
• Get light pale blond by doubleprocessing.
• If using high lift blonds to only 5
levels, results may be warm or
brassy.
• If highlights become too blond, add
lowlights for more natural color.
Common Haircolor Solutions
• Refresh faded color: Apply a demipermanent haircolor within
two levels of formula and process for up to 10 minutes.
• Green cast: Remove buildup and use color to neutralize
unwanted color.
• Overall color is too light: Apply a no-lift, deposit-only color
that is one to two levels darker.
• Overall color is too dark: Apply a haircolor remover for 10
minutes and check.
• Shampoo cap
LET’S REVIEW!!!!
• Some tips for Red heads?
• Some tips for Brunettes?
• Some tips for Blondes?
• What is a shampoo cap?
Friday