GRAPHIC GUIDE TO
RESIDENTIAL
SPACE
PLANNING
Graphic Guide to Residential Space Planning by Luis Furushio
Self-published by Luis Furushio
www.Luisfurushio.com
© 2022, Luis Furushio
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced in any form by any electronic
or mechanical means (including photocopying, recording, or information storage and retrieval)
without permission in writing from the publisher, except as permitted by U.S. copyright law.
For permissions contact: hola@LuisFurushio.com
Author's Note
Hi there, I am Luis, and I got inspired to create this book from questions I usually get from
clients during the early stages of the design process.
In architecture, there is always an intention behind each design decision, and this needs
to be communicated throughout the entire creative process.
In this book, I try to answer some of these questions, showing the "whys" behind
residential design with simple drawings that are visually easy to digest.
Whether you are an architecture student yearning for sources beyond basic textbooks, a
homeowner searching for tips on how to remodel your house, or even a contractor wanting to improve your residential design knowledge, this is the book for you.
Good design is not accomplished when you provide your own vision and what you think
is best for your client. Good design is accomplished when you take your client's vision
and elevate it in order to improve their quality of life while communicating your intentions.
What's Inside
THE FIRST SKETCHES.....................................................1
From Diagrams to Plans..................................................................... 2
EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS..........................6
Exterior Environment.......................................................................... 7
Mass, Scale, and Proportions........................................................... 10
Grading and Hillside Construction.................................................... 13
House Styles in North America......................................................... 19
LIVING AREAS.................................................................21
General Analysis.............................................................................. 22
Foyer / Entry Hall Design.................................................................. 26
Living Room Design......................................................................... 32
Dining Room Design......................................................................... 42
Guest Bathroom Design................................................................... 47
SLEEPING AREAS...........................................................50
Bedroom Arrangements................................................................... 51
Bedroom Design............................................................................... 54
Bathroom Design.............................................................................. 62
KITCHEN AREA...............................................................69
Kitchen Design................................................................................. 70
UTILITY AREAS...............................................................92
Laundry Room Design...................................................................... 93
Garage Design................................................................................. 96
STAIRCASES...................................................................99
Types of Staircases........................................................................ 100
Design and Location of Staircases................................................. 101
Chapter 1
THE FIRST SKETCHES

THE FIRST SKETCHES
FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS
Bubble diagrams are a helpful start for placing the different areas of a house in relationship with the
orientation of the lot, the weather, the view, and how you can access the property. This first step will
avoid any drastic modifications during the developement of the final floor plan.
The most used areas of the house should be kept fairly close as much as possible to avoid
unnecessary steps. Living areas should be kept close to the kitchen area due to the high traffic
volume. Sleeping areas should be kept as far as possible from the noisy parts of the house like the
utility areas, and their access should be through a transitional space like a hallway to provide more
privacy.
The following are bubble diagrams showing common traffic patterns between the different areas of a
house. I have divided these into Living Areas, Kitchen Area, and Sleeping Areas. For the purpose of
simplicity, I am not showing the utility areas. The width of the arrows represent the relative amount of
traffic between the areas.
S
K
K
L
L
ENTRY
DIAGRAM 2
Acceptable traffic flow. This is an improvement
of Diagram 1. By just swaping living and
sleeping areas, the linear traffic flow improves
considerably.
DIAGRAM 1
ENTRY
Not recommended. The traffic flow from the
kitchen to the living areas is too far, and the
location of the sleeping area in between
creates problems of traffic, noise, and privacy.
K
K
S
ENTRY
S
L
L
S
ENTRY
DIAGRAM 4
Very efficient traffic flow. As in Diagram 3, there
is a strong connection between living and
kitchen areas. The resulting “T” shape
generates easy access to the sleeping areas.
DIAGRAM 3
Efficient traffic flow. Sleeping areas are
provided with privacy, and the resulting "L"
shape generates a potential space for an
outdoor area like a deck or patio.

THE FIRST SKETCHES
FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS
There are several ways to arrange the different rooms in a house. The best way to approach this is
by giving priority to the effcient use of the space and traffic flow. However, a particular client may
request changes from the most efficient arrangement and may resist all logical argument. Always
remember that a big part of the designer's job is to satisfy the needs of the client, but always make
sure to communicate how these changes are going to impact their quality of life in the long run.
STAIRS
UP
STAIRS
DN
K
ENTRY
L
S
1ST LEVEL
2ND LEVEL
DIAGRAM 5
Traffic flow for a two-story house. The most used areas of the house, the living
room and the kitchen, are located on the first level. The private areas are
located on the second level. This diagram provides easy access to the stairs
that are located between the living and kitchen areas.
S
STAIRS
DN
STAIRS
UP
S
L
K
ENTRY
1ST LEVEL
2ND LEVEL
DIAGRAM 6
A variation of Diagram 5 with sleeping areas on the first level. The kitchen and
living areas are close to each other, providing easy access to the sleeping
areas and resulting in a "T" shape, similar to Diagram 4. The location of the
stairs, next to the sleeping areas on both levels, provides privacy and good
flow between the two levels.

THE FIRST SKETCHES
FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS
The following is an example of how you can develop your first schematic floor plan. The process
starts by drawing your bubble diagram and finishes with a schematic single-line floor plan. In this
phase, you can also provide schematic elevations, sections, and all the sketches to help
communicate your ideas and design intentions. It is important to make sure that you explain the
"why" behind each design decision throughout the entire process.
BUBBLE DIAGRAM
We start by locating the living and
kitchen areas close to each other.
The sleeping and utility areas are
placed on opposite sides, keeping
the sleeping areas far from noises
and with more privacy. The resulting shape is a linear arrangement.
K
U
S
L
ENTRY
SITE PLAN ANALYSIS
Based on the existing conditions of
the site, we start locating our
resulting bubble diagram.
The orientation of the lot, the
existing climate conditions, the
views, and the location of your
neighbor's house are all crucial
factors that can impact the final
design.
N
VIEWS
The linear arrangement oriented in
the same direction of the sun path
with minimal openings on west and
east sides helps protect the house
from the heat generated by the
sun.
WINDS
WINDS
K
U
The arrangement also takes
advantage of the winds coming
from the south and north to provide
cross ventilation through the
narrowest side of the house.
L
DRIVEWAY
The use of natural barriers like
trees and shrubs helps control
solar heat gain during the
summer months and provides
privacy to the sleeping areas
facing the front of the lot.
WINDS
WINDS
STR
EET

S
TREES
PROVIDE
PRIVACY
TO THE
SLEEPING
AREAS
THE FIRST SKETCHES
FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS
LIVING
KITCHEN
LAUNDRY
BEDROOM 1
PRIMARY
BEDROOM
BEDROOM 2
BATH.
GARAGE
BATH.
BATH.
DINING
ENTRY
TRAFFIC DIAGRAM
Room-by-room traffic diagrams help to demonstrate the traffic patterns of the future
residents of the house. This will become the basis for the first rough scale floor plan.
The scale of the bubbles is not important in this phase.
CL.
LAUND.
LIVING
PRIMARY
BED.
BED. 1
KITCHEN
CL.
CL.
GARAGE
CL.
CL.
BATH.
BED. 2
FOYER
DINING
CL.
BATH
BATH.
ENTRY
SINGLE-LINE SCHEMATIC FLOOR PLAN
After you define the traffic pattern, you can start creating a single-line schematic floor
plan to scale. The design process is a constant exchange of ideas, and a single-line-floor
plan provides the flexibility to easily make changes to your drawing. After you define the
schematic floor plan, you can start adding wall thickness and creating a more
finished-looking floor plan to scale.

Chapter 2
EXTERIOR DESIGN
CONSIDERATIONS

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
EXTERIOR ENVIRONMENT
One of the most common mistakes we make during the early stages of the design process is to just
focus on developing the interior functionality of our design. There are several exterior environmental
factors like the building orientation, the prevailing winds, and the sun path that can significantly impact
the final exterior volumetric design of our project.
ORIENTATION
Orientation is the position of your house in relation to the path of the sun in different seasons and the
prevailing wind patterns in your location. The concept is very simple; if you are located in a hot region,
your house should be oriented to minimize solar gains, and the opposite is applicable for cold regions.
SHADED AREA
REPRESENTS
THE SUN’S PATH
THROUGHOUT THE YEAR
SUMMER
PREVAILING
WINDS
E
N
WINTER
S
W
PREVAILING
WINDS
PREVAILING WINDS
SUMMER
SUMMER
LINEAR FLOOR PLAN
N
WINTER
WINTER
PREVAILING WINDS

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
PREVAILING WINDS
Prevailing winds are the direction that the wind blows predominantly at a particular place or in a
particular season. Wind direction, frequency, and speed can greatly impact the design of your house,
including the exterior design, the shape of the floor plan, and the type of roof you want to use.
CROSS VENTILATION
In hot climates, a linear floor plan
takes advantage of the winds
coming from the south and north,
generating a cross ventilation
system and providing the necessary
natural method of cooling.
PREVAILING WINDS
PREVAILING WINDS
HIGH WIND REGIONS
Gable roofs with overhangs and
patio covers are prone to damage
from strong winds. Wind forces on
a roof tend to be uplift. A strong
connection between the roof
structure, walls, and foundation is
necessary to avoid damage to the
house structure.
UPLIFT
LOAD
TREES AS NATURAL WIND
BREAKS
The use of trees and vegetation
combined with earth dunes serve
as a natural windbreak,
redirecting the wind over the
house structure.

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
CONTROLLING SUN RADIATION AND HEAT GAIN
USE OF VEGETATION
Trees and vegetation provide many
benefits controlling solar penetration.
The shading that they offer helps
make homes energy-efficient by
creating a cooling effect during the
hot summer months and allowing
passive solar gain during cold
winter months.
USE OF ROOF OVERHANGS
Sometimes we undervalue the
importance of roof overhangs as
a functional part of the design of a
new house. They help to shade
windows, controlling heat gain
and sunlight during the summer
months.
USE OF LOUVERED PERGOLAS
OR AWNINGS
If a roof overhang is not possible,
the addition of a horizontal awning or
pergola over the window will provide
the required shade for controlling heat
gain during hot months.
USE OF VERTICAL STRUCTURES
In some cases, the use of roof
overhangs is not enough to provide
the desired shading for large
windows. The addition of vertical
structures like timber batten screen
walls or wood lattice screens helps to
improve the control of heat gain.

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
MASS, SCALE, AND PROPORTIONS
Managing the mass, scale, and proportions of a building is a fundamental design task that you must
consider from the earliest part of the design process. As floor plans evolve, room sizes and
arrangements will change to accommodate exterior requirements.
NO CLEAR PRIMARY
FORM AND LACK
OF HIERARCHY
AGLOMERATION
OF ELEMENTS
BOX-LIKE
FORM
TALL AND
LARGE
BOXY FORM
OVERALL
MASS EXCEEDS
HUMAN SCALE
FLAT WALL
PLANES
NOT RECOMMENDED
NOT RECOMMENDED
PRIMARY
VOLUME
PROVIDING
HIERARCHY
SECONDARY FORMS
FRAGMENTING THE
OVERALL MASS
RECOMMENDED
LARGE ROOF WITH
NO ARTICULATION
SECONDARY FORMS
APPEAR TO BE A
SERIES OF SMALL
ROOFS WITH NO
UNIFYING ELEMENT
MICRO-MANAGEMENT
OF MASS AND
ROOF FORMS
LARGE RECTANGULAR
FOOTPRINT
NOT RECOMMENDED
NOT RECOMMENDED
DORMERS AS SECONDARY
ELEMENTS HELP
TO REDUCE BULKINESS
PRIMARY ROOF
IS ARTICULATED BY
SECONDARY ROOFS
RECOMMENDED

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
TYPES OF ROOFS
There are several types of roof shapes for a house, but the most used are gable, hip, and flat roofs.
PITCHED ROOF GABLE OR HIP
PITCHED ROOF WITH CLERESTORY
FLAT ROOF
FLAT ROOF WITH CLERESTORY
“A” FRAME ROOF
BUTTERFLY ROOF
SHED ROOF
FLAT AND SHED ROOF

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
MASS, SCALE, AND PROPORTIONS
The construction of a new house can have a negative impact if mass and scale management are not
taken into account. When designing the building, it is recommended to avoid long uninterrupted
exterior surfaces lacking visual interest and that don't relate to human scale. Articulating the exterior
wall planes, alternating different textures, and reinforcing the human scale with entry porches are
some techniques that can help you to enhance the overall visual character of the building.
AVOID LARGE
BOXY FORMS
ROOF SLOPE OF
FIRST STORY APPEARS
AWKWARD WITH THE
SECOND STORY ROOF
HEIGHT OF VOLUME OUT
OF PROPORTIONS
AND HUMAN SCALE
AVOID UNDEFINED
FLAT ENTRIES
AVOID LONG UNINTERRUPTED
EXTERIOR FLAT SURFACES
NOT RECOMMENDED
BUILDING ENTRY
SHOULD BE
EMPHASIZED
SECONDARY FORMS
HELP TO FRAGMENT
THE OVERALL MASS
PRIMARY VOLUME
PROVIDES HIERARCHY
ROOF SLOPE OF FIRST STORY
IS COMPATIBLE WITH
THE SECOND STORY ROOF
HEIGHT OF VOLUME
RELATES WELL
WITH HUMAN SCALE
VARIATION OF WALL PLANES
PROVIDE ARTICULATION TO
THE OVERALL FORM
RECOMMENDED

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
GRADING AND HILLSIDE CONSTRUCTION
CALCULATING THE SLOPE PERCENTAGE
To calculate the percentage of a slope, convert the rise and run to the same units, and then divide the
rise by the run. Multiply the result by 100 and you obtain the percentage slope. This example uses
inches and centimeters.
8.3%
SLOPE
RISER
3”
7.6 cm
USING IMPERIAL UNITS:
3”
SLOPE = ___ = 0.083x100 = 8.3%
36”
USING DECIMAL UNITS:
7.6cm
SLOPE = ____ = 0.083x100 = 8.3%
91cm
RUN
36”
91 cm
GENERAL RULES OF GRADING
Grading is the work associated with moving portions of the earth to make a site level or create a site
with a specified slope. Ground slope is important in determining how the site can be used.
4 TO 10
UNITS
0 TO 4 UNITS
100 UNITS
100 UNITS
FLAT
LESS THAN 4% SLOPE
SUITABLE FOR ALL ACTIVITIES
MODERATE SLOPE
BETWEEN 4% AND 10% SLOPE
INFORMAL ACTIVITIES
OVER 50
UNITS
10 TO 50
UNITS
100 UNITS
100 UNITS
STEEP SLOPE
BETWEEN 10% AND 50% SLOPE
LIMITED ACTIVITIES
VERY STEEP SLOPE
OVER 50% SLOPE
SUBJECT TO SOIL EROSION AND COLLAPSE

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
GRADING AND DRAINAGE
Appropriate design on a sloped lot includes stepping the building massing with the terrain, breaking it
into multiple volumes, and avoiding large rectangular footprints with poor proportions.
Max
Driveways
- Longitudinal
- Cross Slope
Walks
- Longitudinal
- Cross Slope
20%
10%
Min
Recommended
0.5%
0.5%
1% to 10%
1% to 3%
2%
3%
10%
4%
0.5%
1%
1% to 5%
2%
2%
2%
0.5%
0.75%
1%
1%
Greenspace
- Lawn Areas
25%
2%
Varies
- Planted Slopes
30%
2%
Varies
Patios
- Concrete
- Flagstone or
Brick Pavers
5%
2%
1%
25%
30%
2%
LAWN
AREA
2% TO 25%
2%
NO SLOPE
WALKWAY
0.5% TO 10%
LAWN AREA
2% TO 25%
SHEET FLOW
2%
2%
2%
DRIVEWAYS
0.5% TO 20%
FROM
EDGES
TO CENTER
SLOPES AND DRAINAGE FOR DRIVEWAYS,
WALKS AND, GREEN SPACES
FROM
RIDGE
TO EDGES
SLOPES AND DRAINAGE FOR
IMPERMEABLE PAVING SYSTEMS

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
CUT AND FILL
Cut and fill is the process of moving earth from one place to another to make ground more level.
Cut refers to the earth removed from an area, and fill refers to the earth brought into an area. To avoid
needing to fill in or remove the excess mass, the cut and fill process should be planned in a way to
keep both the cut and fill masses approximately equal.
Extensive cut and fill operations are expensive, generate extensive earth moving, promote the use
of large retaining walls, and require soil stabilization. Consider using concrete piers in some areas,
stepping floor levels to follow the natural grade, and setting a portion of the structure into the hillside.
Using the slope to your advantage is less expensive and minimizes grading on hillsides.
Grade change devices like retaining walls help to level out sloped areas to provide space for
construction or recreation.
CUT EXISTING
EARTH
BEFORE
PRESERVE EXISTING
GRADE AROUND
CRITICAL ROOT ZONE
FILL WITH
EXISTING EARTH
TO LEVEL GROUND
AFTER

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
COST OF BUILDING ON HILLSIDES
Sloping sites usually offer the best views and unique opportunities for architectural design, but always
make sure to consider cost vs benefits. Building on a steep hillside is not easy, sometimes expensive,
and requires a certain level of expertise compared to building on a flat site.
GENTLE SLOPE
Less than 10%
Least expensive to build.
Concrete slab on grade
is the least expensive
option for gentle slopes.
More than 7% requires
the use of a raised
foundation.
CUT
FILL
CONCRETE SLAB WITH NO
RETAINING WALLS ONLY
SUITABLE FOR A SLOPE
UP TO SEVEN PERCENT
MODERATE SLOPE
Between 10% to 20%
Expensive to build.
CUT
Combining the use of
retaining walls and
concrete piers can
prevent extensive
earth movement but
CUT
still requires excavation.
CUT
CONCRETE PIERS
CONCRETE SLAB AND
RETAINING WALLS
VERY STEEP SLOPE
Above 20%
Very expensive to build.
The use of concrete
piers and grade beams
avoid extensive earth
work, but it requires
a skilled structural
engineer to design
and build to ensure
safety and flood
protection.
STEEL
POSTS
STEEL OR
WOOD POSTS
DEPENDING ON SOIL’S
CONDITION, MAY REQUIRE
CONCRETE GRADE BEAMS
AND PIERS FOUNDATION

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS ON HILLSIDES
Appropriate design on a sloped lot includes stepping the building massing with the terrain, breaking it
into multiple volumes, and avoiding large rectangular footprints with poor proportions.
Y
INAR
IMAG
INE
DE L
GRA
MASSIVE
ROOF SHAPE
CUT
HIGH SKIRT
WALLS
INCREASING
VERTICALITY
EXCESSIVE
SUB-FLOOR SPACE
FLOOR LEVELS DON’T
RELATE WITH EXISTING
TOPOGRAPHY
THE PROBLEM
INITIAL DESIGN
The initial design does not blend well with the hillside, and the high skirt wall, used for supporting the
house, emphasizes its prominence. The overscaled roof shape does not relate to the existing terrain
and increases the mass of the proposed building, making it look monolithic and out of proportion.
USE ROOFTOP DECKS
OR BALCONIES
TO MITIGATE
BULK AND MASS
RY
INA
G
IMA
DE
GRA
LINE
STEP OR
SLOPE ROOF
WITH TERRAIN
CUT
FILL
EXCAVATE AND
INSET FLOOR LEVELS
PARTIALLY
INTO GRADE
FILL
STAGGER
FLOOR LEVELS
PLACE FLOOR
LEVELS CLOSE
TO GRADE
CUT
THE SOLUTION
REVISED DESIGN
The revised design steps the rooflines with the slope to blend with the existing terrain. The floor levels are placed close and partially inset into the grade to avoid the need of a skirt wall to support the
house. The cut and fill process keeps both masses approximately equal, avoiding unecessary earth
work.

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
MULTIPLE LEVEL HOUSE ARRANGEMENTS
Stepping floor levels to follow the natural grade minimizes large scale earth-work and helps control
the bulk and mass of the building. Split-level house designs are an alternative solution to divide the
living spaces into multiple levels.
Split-level homes are typically divided into two or three different levels with a living room, kitchen, and
dining on the main floor, bedrooms and bathrooms on the upper floor, and the den or garage in the
basement area.
The main disadvantage of split-level homes are the stairs that can be a challenge for people with mobility issues. For new families, blocking stairways becomes an issue in a home with crawling babies
or kids not yet ready for staircases. However, split level homes separate the living, active areas of the
home from the sleeping areas, which provides more privacy and quietness.
E LINE
Y GRAD
R
IMAGINA
E LINE
Y GRAD
R
IMAGINA
BEDROOMS
MAIN
LEVEL
STREET
SIDE
BEDROOMS
BASEMENT
STREET
SIDE
MAIN
LEVEL
SLOPE
DOWN
UP SL
3-LEVEL
DOWNSLOPE HOUSE
2-LEVEL
UPSLOPE HOUSE
IMAGIN
ARY G
IMAGIN
ARY GR
OPE
RADE
LINE
ADE LIN
E
MAIN LEVEL
STREET
SIDE
STREET
SIDE
MAIN LEVEL
BEDROOMS
BASEMENT
DOWN
DOW
SLOPE
2-LEVEL
DOWNSLOPE HOUSE
N SL
OPE
2-LEVEL
DOWNSLOPE HOUSE

PATIO
EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
HOUSE STYLES IN NORTH AMERICA
PRAIRIE SCHOOL
Charcterized by its horizontal lines, hip
and flat roofs, and large overhangs,
this style became common in the
Midwestern US between 1900 and
1915.
AMERICAN CRAFTSMAN
Inspired by the British Arts and Craft
movement, this became one of the most
popular house styles in the US between
1900 and 1929.
TUDOR REVIVAL
Inspired by the English Tudor style,
these houses became popular in North
America between 1910 and 1940.
MEDITERRANEAN
Resmbling the aesthetics of
Mediterranean villas, this style
became popular in warm weather
locations like Florida and Califronia
between 1918 and 1940.
RANCH
Originally from California, this style became popular in most
suburban areas of North America after World War II, between
1945 and 1970.

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
HOUSE STYLES IN NORTH AMERICA
MODERN FARMHOUSE
This style appeared in the late 90s, replicating the cozy feel of early
American farmhouses and utilizing sleek clean lines to add contrast
to the final design.
EICHLER
These types of houses were built between 1949 and 1966 in
California. The name comes from Joseph Eichler, a real estate
developer who comissioned these type of houses for middle-class
Americans.
CONTEMPORARY
This refers to a style that evolves to reflect the architecture of today.
Most contemporary designs take a lot of characteristics from
modern design, emphasizing clean and simple lines.

Chapter 3
LIVING AREAS

LIVING AREAS
GENERAL ANALYSIS
The living areas are the social core of a house where most of the interaction between the members of a
social group happens. These groups can include family units of all kinds, roommates, and their guests. It's
a place where you get together, eat, entertain your guests, or just relax. These areas include the foyer or
entry, the living room, and the dining room.
The transition between these spaces should be flawless so that a person is able to move from one
place to another without any obstacles. In the following examples, I am also including the kitchen
area in some of these drawings, as it is strongly related to the dining room and living room areas.
TO
BACKYARD
DESIGN 1
In this typical arrangement, you can
clearly identify four formal areas
divided by partition walls: a foyer with
a guest bathroom and coat closet, a
large living room, a kitchen, and a
formal dining room.
TO LAUNDRY
AND GARAGE
KITCHEN
LIVING
All the formal rooms are connected
through openings where size
depends on the amount of traffic
required to go from room to room. This
traditional layout maintains the home
classic style.
TO BEDROOMS
DINING
Formal enclosed spaces provide
privacy and coziness to each room.
Sound and temperature are also
easier to control, and the high
number of walls allows you to
decorate the space with art and
more furniture.
FOYER
ENTRY

COAT
CLOSET
GUEST
BATHROOM
LIVING AREAS
GENERAL ANALYSIS
TO
BACKYARD
LIVING
DESIGN 2
The enlargement of the openings
emphasizes the visual connection
between rooms without losing the
sense of separation between them.
The kitchen and dining area share
a common space, but the location
of the kitchen island defines the two
spaces.
TV
KITCHEN
NEW
HEADER
TO LAUNDRY
AND GARAGE
The sliding doors in the dining room
provide privacy to the space and
flexibility for access to the guest
bathroom via the foyer area.
TO BEDROOMS
COAT
CLOSET
FOYER
DINING
GUEST
BATHROOM
ENTRY
TO
BACKYARD
DESIGN 3
The removal of the existing partition
walls provides a better traffic flow
between the spaces and more
flexibility to accommodate furniture.
You can easily convert the dining
room into a living room and vice
versa.
On the downside, open floor plans
don't provide a sense of privacy,
and the spaces are visually hard to
control and define.
KITCHEN
LIVING
TO LAUNDRY
AND GARAGE
Because of the removal of load
bearing walls, a structural beam
may be required to support the
ceiling and roof structure, which
could increase the cost of the
project.
NEW
BEAM
TO BEDROOMS
COAT
CLOSET
DINING
ENTRY

GUEST
BATHROOM
LIVING AREAS
GENERAL ANALYSIS
DESIGN 4
The compact version of the open floor
plan. The front door opens directly to
the living areas with no transitional
space.
TO BEDROOMS
KITCHEN
TV
To control the space of this open
layout, the furniture and the placement
of rugs help define the dining room and
living room areas.
LIVING
You can find this type of compact
layout in small houses and apartment
buildings.
DINING
ENTRY
KITCHEN
DESIGN 5
The compact
version of a
typical closed
floor plan.
An opening
creates a virtual
connection
between the living
room and dining
room, generating
two formal
spaces.
A door connects
the kitchen with
the dining room,
creating a sense
of privacy.
KITCHEN
DESIGN 6
One single
space shared
by living room
and dining room.
DINING
DINING
As in design 4,
the furniture and
rugs help define
the two spaces.
TO BEDROOMS
As in design 5,
a door connects
the kitchen with
the dining room,
creating a sense
of privacy.
TV
LIVING
ENTRY
TO BEDROOMS
TV
LIVING
ENTRY

LIVING AREAS
GENERAL ANALYSIS
TO
BACKYARD
KITCHEN
DINING
KITCHEN
DINING
TO BEDROOMS
TO BEDROOMS
TV
TV
LIVING
LIVING
ENTRY
ENTRY
DESIGN 7
Elongated version of the open
floor plan.
DESIGN 8
The same space as in design 7
but with the kitchen at the end of
the space.
The location of the kitchen in the
middle of the space creates a
partial separation between the
living room and dining room.
The placement of the furniture in
the living room emphasizes
a linear traffic path on one side
of the room.
The addition of a large opening
at the back provides plenty of
natural light.
The location of the kitchen
limits the number of doors and
windows.

LIVING AREAS
FOYER / ENTRY HALL DESIGN
A foyer is a small transitional area that connects the home entrance with the rest of the interior. It is
the first space you see when you walk into a home, and it is where you greet your guests. Originally,
"foyer" was a French term used to refer to a space where actors waited when they were not on stage.
Foyers are sometimes provided with a small closet where you can store coats and jackets, umbrellas,
boots, and dog-walking supplies. If large enough, the space may also serve to place a small bench or
table as a decorative piece or to drop your mail and packages. As it is the first space when you enter
your house, a foyer should feel welcoming.
FOYER SIGHTLINES AND FOCAL POINTS
One of the most fascinating things during the design process, is that you can control what you see
from any given point in the home. Imagine opening the front door of your house and having a series
of points of interest that draw your eyes along the travel route within the house. Sightlines and focal
points can make a significant impact on how you sense the space in your house.
FOCAL POINT
FOCAL POINT
SIGHTLINE
HOUSE
ENTRANCE
SIGHTLINE
A sightline is an unobstructed imaginary
straight line extending from your eye to the
objects or areas you see. Great sightlines
lead your eyes to multiple points of interest.
FOCAL POINT
A focal point is an area in a room that immediately captures the viewer's attention.
Symmetry and the use of an architectural
feature combined with textures and colors
helps to emphasize that specific area.

LIVING AREAS
FIREPLACES AS FOCAL POINTS
Fireplaces are mainly used as a source of heat to warm a space in your home. Nowadays, with the
conveniences of modern heating systems, the necessity fireplaces has become, in some cases,
almost obsolete. However, that hasn't stopped their use as the main focal point of a living room.
OPEN HEARTH
GAS STOVE
HUNG FROM ROOF
PREWAY
WOOD BURNING STOVE
CORNER
CHIMNEY AS FOCAL POINT
In this layout, the location of the
fireplace instantly draws your eye
once you pass the foyer area.
TO
BEDROOMS
ENTRY
The opening leading to the living
room and the two windows on
each side of the chimney provide
symmetry to the composition
and emphasize its presence and
hierarchy.
The location of the fireplace also
defines the furniture arrangement
in the room and how you are
going to use and circulate in the
space.
SHELVES
COAT
CLOSET
OPENING IS
CENTERED
WITH FIREPLACE
DINING
FIRE
PLACE

LIVING AREAS
DOORS AND WINDOWS AS FOCAL POINTS
KITCHEN
LARGE SLIDING
GLASS DOOR
NICHE AND GLASS DOOR AS A FOCAL POINT
In this layout, two focal points unconsciously
persuade you to move through the spaces,
generating a sense of procession and guiding
you where to go next.
TO
BEDROOMS
COAT
CLOSET
After you enter the house, a niche centered with
the foyer space immediately draws your eye, and
when turning to the left, the large sliding doors in
the dining area get your attention, inviting you to
move from the foyer to the living room.
NICHE
Centering the foyer opening with the large glass
door also creates symmetry and hierarchy,
emphasizing the desired effect.
LIVING
ENTRY
LARGE
BAY
WINDOW
TO
BEDROOMS
WINDOWS AS A FOCAL POINT
Large windows make a great focal
point to any room, especially if you
have a fantastic view.
DINING
COAT
CLOSET
ENTRY
From the foyer area, the first thing
you notice is natural light coming
from the living room and dining room
areas, inviting you to walk into these
rooms and sit there.
LIVING
LIVING
LARGE PICTURE WINDOW
CENTERED WITH LIVING ROOM

LIVING AREAS
DOORS AND WINDOWS AS FOCAL POINTS
LARGE PICTURE
WINDOW
DINING
DINING NOOK AS A FOCAL POINT
The intention in this design was
to draw the attention towards the
dining nook from the foyer.
Despite the large picture window
being placed a considerable
distance from the foyer, its size
and location bring a large amount
of natural light, making that area
the main point of attraction.
KITCHEN
LIVING
ENTRY
BENCH AND
SHELVES

TO
BEDROOMS
LIVING AREAS
FOYER SIGHTLINES - MISTAKES AND SOLUTIONS
GUEST
BATHROOM
COAT CLOSET
THE PROBLEM
ENTRY
DESIGN 1 - The Problem
The location of plumbing fixtures can have a big impact on
sightlines. In this floor plan, the guest bathroom opens off the
foyer area, exposing the toilet directly from the main door.
RELOCATED
PLUMBING
FIXTURES
RELOCATED WINDOW
DRAWS THE ATTENTION
OF A PERSON IN THE
FOYER AREA IN CASE
BATHROOM DOOR
REMAINS OPEN
RELOCATED
COAT CLOSET
THE SOLUTION
ENTRY
DESIGN 1 - The Solution
By relocating the existing coat closet, we create a small
transitional hallway area for more privacy. The rearrangement
of the plumbing fixtures against the back wall of the bathroom,
helps hide the view from the entry door to the toilet.

LIVING AREAS
FOYER SIGHTLINES - MISTAKES AND SOLUTIONS
COAT
CLOSET
GUEST
BATHROOM
THE PROBLEM
ENTRY
DESIGN 2 - The Problem
Same problem as in design one. The door of the guest bathroom
opens directly into the foyer and main door areas.
COAT
CLOSET
BENCH AND
SHELVES
NICHE
ENTRY
GUEST
BARHOOM
THE SOLUTION
DESIGN 2 - The Solution
Similar solution as in design 1. By rotating the guest bathroom and
coat closet, we create a transitional space that allows privacy and
separation. Adding a niche also generates a focal point that draws
the attention to that area.

LIVING AREAS
LIVING ROOM DESIGN
When designing a living room, adequate floor and wall sapce are necessary in order to arrange
furniture and generate circulation paths. The use of focal points also defines how the furniture is
placed in the room and how you are going to use and circulate in the space.
FOCAL POINTS IN LIVING ROOMS
CONSOLE TABLE
PICTURE
WINDOW
FIRE PLACE
USE OF A PICTURE WINDOW
AND A CONSOLE TABLE
CONSOLE TABLE
FLUE PIPE
ENCLOSURE
USE OF A FIRE PLACE WITH AN ACCENT
COLOR OR TEXTURE TO CREATE CONTRAST
CONTRASTING
BACKGROUND
ACCENT
WALL
USE OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS AND
TEXTURES AS A BACKGROUND FOR FURNITURE
NICHE WITH
SHELVES
USE OF A NICHE WITH SHELVES WITH
A CONTRASTING BACKGROUND

LIVING AREAS
FURNITURE DIMENSIONS
104”
264cm
38”
97cm
65”
165cm
17”
43cm
CHAISE SECTIONAL SOFA
60”
152cm
CHAISE SECTIONAL SOFA
24”
61cm
30”
76cm
24”
61cm
COFFEE TABLE
90”
229cm
20”
51cm
END TABLE
COFFEE TABLE
25”
64cm
38”
97cm
28”
71cm
THREE-SEATER SOFA
66”
168cm
END TABLE
20”
51cm
END TABLE
35”
89cm
38”
97cm
35”
89cm
TWO-SEATER SOFA
ARMCHAIR

17”
43cm
SOFA - ARMCHAIR
LIVING AREAS
FURNITURE CLEARANCE IN LIVING ROOMS
Circulation is an important part of planning a layout for a living room. The arrangement should enable
you to move around the space and also move from one room to another. Providing adequate
clearance space between furniture and objects creates those necessary passageways for high and
low traffic flow.
4” (10cm) MIN
BETWEEN SEAT
AND OTTOMAN
36” (91cm) MIN
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS
36” (91cm) MIN
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS
10” (25cm)
MIN BETWEEN
CHAIRS AND SOFAS
36” (91cm) MIN
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS
22” (56cm) MIN
BETWEEN OBJECTS
12”-18” (30cm-46cm)
BETWEEN SEAT AND
COFFEE TABLE
12”-18” (30cm-46cm)
BETWEEN SEAT AND
COFFEE TABLE
RECOMMENDED MINIMUM CLEARANCES
High traffic passageways
36" (min)
91cm (min)
Low traffic passageways
22" (min)
56cm (min)
Between the front of a sofa, armchair,
and coffee table
12" (min)
30cm (min)
Between chairs and sofas
10" (min)
25cm (min)

LIVING AREAS
CONVERSATION AREA AND CIRCULATION PATH IN LIVING ROOMS
A conversation area is a seating area arranged in a way that encourages social interaction. The
maximum distance for a seated person having a comfortable conversation with others is between
7'-0" (2.1m) and 9'-0" (2.7m). Anything bigger than this will require you to start raising your voice.
7’
-0
2. ” t
1m o
to 9’2. 0”
7m (M
(M AX
AX .)
.)
36”
91cm
7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.)
2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)
12”-18” (30cm-46cm)
BETWEEN SEAT
AND COFFEE TABLE

36”
91cm
LIVING AREAS
HDTV VIEWING DISTANCES IN LIVING ROOMS
One important thing to consider when buying a TV is the size of your living room. A larger TV only
improves your watching experience if you have enough space in your home to mount it and sit far
enough away. The following distances apply to High Definition TVs.
43” TV
5.5’ TO 9’ (1.7m TO 2.7m)
50” TV
6.5’ TO 10.5’ (2m TO 3.2m)
55” TV
7’ TO 11.5’ (2.1m TO 3.5m)
65” TV
8’ TO 13.5’ (2.4m TO 4.1m)
75” TV
9.5’ TO 15.5’ (2.9m TO 4.7m)
LINE OF SIGHT
TV STAND HEIGHT
TV STAND HEIGHT
+ HALF TV’S HEIGHT

LIVING AREAS
CHOOSING THE RIGHT RUG FOR YOUR LIVING ROOM
The living room is a space where you typically spend a lot of time with your family and friends to
socialize or watch TV. The use of a rug can help layer the room's decor, add warmth, add texture, and
anchor the space.
RUG SIZES
10’x14’ (3m x 4.3m)
9’x12’ (2.7m x 3.7m)
8’x10’
(2.4m x 3m)
8’x10’ (2.4m x 3m)
6’x9’ (1.8m x 2.7m)
5’x8’ (1.5m x 2.4m)
4’x6’
(1.2m x 1.8m)
5’x8’
(1.5m x 2.4m)
6’x9’
(1.8m x 2.7m)

LIVING AREAS
CHOOSING THE RIGHT RUG FOR YOUR LIVING ROOM
RUG SIZES
10’x14’ (3m x 4.3m)
9’x12’ (2.7m x 3.7m)
8’x10’ (2.4m x 3m)
8’x10’
(2.4m x 3m)
6’x9’ (1.8m x 2.7m)
5’x8’ (1.5m x 2.4m)
4’x6’
(1.2m x 1.8m)
TV
9’x12’
(2.7m x 3.7m)
10’x14’
(3m x 4.3m)
TV
9’x12’
(2.7m x 3.7m)
10’x14’
(3m x 4.3m)

LIVING AREAS
FURNITURE ARRANGEMENTS IN LIVING ROOMS
TO SLEEPING
AREAS
DESIGN 1
Having two doorways at opposite
corners of a room makes it challenging
to create a good circulation path and
seating layout for the space. A circular
arrangement is the perfect solution for
this type of situation, which creates a
curved circulation path behind the
seating area.
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS
DESK
36”
91cm
What is great about this design is that all
chairs are angled in towards each other,
making the layout perfect for easy
conversation. An optional space for a
desk and a shelving unit along one of
the walls adds extra functionality.
36”
91cm
TO DINING
AND KITCHEN
CONVERSATION AREA
7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.)
2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)
TO SLEEPING
AREAS
DESIGN 2
Similar location of doorways at opposite
corners as in design one. The use of a
bigger rectangular coffee table and end
tables does not allow a circular
arrangement, making the space too tight
to add more armchairs.
”
36
m
91c
With this arrangement, the circulation
passageway is kept comfortable in width.
36”
91cm
TO DINING
AND KITCHEN

DESK
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS
LIVING AREAS
FURNITURE ARRANGEMENTS IN LIVING ROOMS
TO SLEEPING
AREAS
DESK
DESIGN 3
The best placement of a circulation path for a
small living room is usually straight through.
In this layout, the circulation path right in the
middle of the living room divides the space
into two areas.
36”
91cm
On one half, we have the seating and
conversation area, and on the other half, we
have space for a small lounge area and a
desk.
The lack of space due to the circulation in
the middle of the room limits the furniture
arrangement options.
TO DINING
AND KITCHEN
CONVERSATION AREA
7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.)
2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)
TO SLEEPING
AREAS
3
91 6”
cm
DESIGN 4
We can transform how we feel, the space by
just switching the layout and the seating from
design 3.
The addition of one more armchair to the
arrangement also changes the circulation
path from straight to curved and allows
space for a desk and a shelving unit along
the east wall.
DESK
36”
91cm
TO DINING
AND KITCHEN

LIVING AREAS
FURNITURE ARRANGEMENTS IN LIVING ROOMS
CONVERSATION AREA
7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.)
2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)
DESIGN 5
When designing a
conversation area, you
don’t necessarily have to
worry about having the
pieces up against a wall.
TO
BACKYARD
TO DINING
AND
KITCHEN
Furniture can be floating
in the middle of the room
like in this design, where
the sitting area takes the
center space of the room,
leaving space for the
circulation path around the
furniture set.
36”
91cm
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS
DESIGN 6
An arrangement for watching TV requires a specific
distance between the TV
unit and the seating area
depending on the size of
the screen.
This arrangement leaves
space for the circulation
path behind the sofas.
TV
TO
BACKYARD
36”
91cm
36”
91cm
HIGH TRAFFIC
PASSAGEWAYS

TO DINING
AND
KITCHEN
LIVING AREAS
DINING ROOM DESIGN
There are two types of dining rooms: the dining room as an enclosed formal room, and the dining
area as part of an open concept floor plan where it shares the same space with the living room or
kitchen.
Open floor plans have become very popular since the 90s, and most new houses in North America
incorporate this concept due to its high demand. Formal dining rooms are rumored to be disappearing
and are being replaced by the open concept. The truth is, the formal dining room is still alive, and the
idea of gathering around a table in a separate room to share a meal is still something many people
find enjoyable and more practical.
You can definitely still find the formal dining room in old houses, but these days, the trend is also to
take a more casual approach to gathering for day-to-day family meals. In some cases, the use of
kitchen tables, kitchen islands, and breakfast nooks has made the formal dining room reserved for
special occasions but still in use.
IDEAL DINING TABLE SIZES
The ideal dining table size is determined by the combination of two zones: the required personal area
that you need while having a meal, and the shared space for condiments, serving dishes, trays, and
decorations.
Here, I am showing two recommended sizes as a reference. The first one is for regular use, and the
second one is for sharing a big meal or for a special occasion.
20”
51cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
20”
51cm
SHARED AREA
PERSONAL AREA
24”
61cm
40”
102cm
24”
61cm
5”
13cm
15”
38cm
88”
224cm
MINIMUM DINING TABLE
SIZE FOR 6
MINIMUM SPACE DIMENSIONS
FOR ONE PERSON
IDEAL DIMENSIONS FOR A DINING TABLE FOR SIX
Based on the personal and shared areas, we come up with 40”X78”(102cmX198cm). You can still
make a 36”X72” workable for six people, but it would be the minimum you can go.

LIVING AREAS
IDEAL DINING TABLE SIZES
18”
46cm
SHARED AREA
30”
76cm
30”
76cm
18”
46cm
PERSONAL AREA
30”
76cm
54”
137cm
30”
76cm
9”
23cm
18”
46cm
96”
244cm
MINIMUM DINING TABLE
SIZE FOR 6
MINIMUM SPACE DIMENSIONS
FOR ONE PERSON
IDEAL DIMENSIONS FOR A SIX PERSON DINING TABLE TO ENJOY A LARGE MEAL
Sharing big meals for special occasions or having large family gatherings means that you need a
large table. With a 54”X96” (137cmX244cm) table, the extra shared area and more personal space
allows for more cutlery, dishes, glasses, and big serving dishes.

LIVING AREAS
DINING ROOM TABLE DIMENSIONS
96”
244cm
36”
91cm
30”
76cm
36”
91cm
42”
107cm
30”
76cm
2 PEOPLE
4 PEOPLE
8 PEOPLE
48”
122cm
72”
183cm
48”
122cm
36”
91cm
30”
76cm
60”
152cm
6 PEOPLE
4 PEOPLE
48”
122cm
36”
91cm
3 PEOPLE
7 PEOPLE
72”
183cm
60”
152cm
4 PEOPLE
9 PEOPLE

4 PEOPLE
LIVING AREAS
CHOOSING THE RIGHT RUG FOR YOUR DINING TABLE
The use of rugs for dining tables is not intended just to protect the floor or to provide visual appeal
to the area. Rugs also help to define and anchor the space around the table, especially in open floor
plans, where sometimes the dining area is integrated with the living room or kitchen.
The basic rule is to choose a rug that matches the shape of your dining table. Make sure the rug is at
least two to three feet away from each side of the dining table; you could go even larger if you want.
The reason for this is that the dining chairs should never go off the edge of the rug when you pull
them out to sit down or stand up.
48”
122cm
30”
76cm
30”
76cm
48”
122cm
48”
122cm
30”
76cm

LIVING AREAS
DINING ROOM ARRANGEMENTS AND CIRCULATION
48”
122cm
TO LIVING
DESIGN 1
Circulation path around a table for a small
dining room.
TO KITCHEN
48”
122cm
48”
122cm
48”
122cm
48”
122cm
48”
122cm
DESIGN 2
Circulation path around a table placed
in a corner of a dining room.
TO LIVING
36”
91cm
48”
122cm
32”
81cm
48”
122cm
TO LIVING
36”
91cm
TO KITCHEN
48”
122cm
48”
122cm
DESIGN 3
Circulation path around a table for a dining
nook.
32”
81cm
48”
122cm
TO KITCHEN
48”
122cm
DESIGN 4
Circulation path around a table for a
medium size dining room.

LIVING AREAS
GUEST BATHROOM DESIGN
Guest bathrooms are small bathrooms with a toilet and lavatory, usually located on the main level of a
house. As the name implies they are commonly used by guests, but also by family members because
they are conveniently to be located near the living areas. The following are typical layouts of guest
36”
91cm
60”
152cm
36”
91cm
22”
56cm
30”
76cm
54”
137cm
32”
81cm
60”
152cm
30”
76cm
22”
56cm
72”
183cm
DESIGN 1
38”
97cm
DESIGN 2
60”
152cm
72”
183cm
22”
56cm
30”
76cm
60”
152cm
30”
76cm
22”
56cm
38”
97cm
DESIGN 4
DESIGN 3
60”
152cm
52”
131cm
30”
76cm
18”
46cm
36”
91cm
78”
198cm
DESIGN 5

LIVING AREAS
WHAT IS THE BEST LOCATION FOR A GUEST BATHROOM?
Guest bathrooms are usually at a centralized location and near the living areas for easy access for
family members and guests. In some cases, these are located near the foyer area. There is not much
space needed for this type of bathroom, and we are allowed to overlap the minimum required clear
spaces in front of fixtures because the bathroom is not required to be accessible to multiple users
simultaneously.
DINING
ROOM
HALLWAY
A
FOYER
LIVING
ROOM
60”
152cm
A
84”
213cm
UP
SECTION A-A
ENTRY
UNDER STAIRS
One of the best ways to maximize the space in your house is by adding a guest bathroom under your
staircase. Always make sure that you have enough recommended clearance space to comply with
your local building codes.
TO
BEDROOMS
TO
BEDROOMS
HALLWAY
UP
UP
FOYER
DINING
ROOM
DINING
ROOM
LIVING
ROOM
LIVING
ROOM
FOYER
ENTRY
ENTRY
HALLWAY
Locating your guest bathroom in your sleeping
area could become a privacy problem. Although
you don’t have guests in your house all the time,
always consider a transitional space like a small
hallway to divide the sleeping areas with the
private areas.
FOYER
Having a bathroom by the entrance makes it
convenient for your family and guests to wash
up after entering the home. Always try to make
sure the bathroom doesn’t open directly to the
entry to avoid a direct view of the toilet.

LIVING AREAS
GUEST BATHROOM DESIGN
SIGHTLINE ANALYSIS
Let’s be honest: some family members don’t
always close the door to the bathroom when
they are finished using it, and at the same
time, it is not nice to be greeted by your toilet
while you walk down a hallway. However, if
there is not enough space to hide the toilet,
you need to make sure what your priorities are.
These designs show different options utilizing
the same space for a small guest bathroom
in a narrow hallway. The type of door and the
swing direction become key factors to the
functionality and the way we sense the space.
DESIGN 2
We solved the
problem of the
lack of space by
opening the door
outwards, but
now, when you
keep the door
open, the toilet
is in the sightline
from the hallway.
TO
BEDROOMS
DESIGN 1
Every time you
walk down the
hallway, the first
thing you are
going to see is
the toilet, and at
the same time,
the door opening
inwards does not
leave much room
for the user.
DESIGN 3
The inward swing
causes the door
to collide with
the toilet, making
the room appear
smaller than it
already is. Not
the best solution.
TO
BEDROOMS
TO
BEDROOMS
TO LIVING
DESIGN 4
While this
collision does
not happen that
often, an open
door in a small
hallway can be
very
annoying,
especially for
heavy traffic
pathways.
TO
BEDROOMS
DESIGN 5
A pocket door
provides an
alternative
solution to the
lack of space.
The visibility of
the toilet
becomes
secondary when
we make comfort
a priority.

TO
BEDROOMS
Chapter 4
SLEEPING AREAS

SLEEPING AREAS
BEDROOM ARRANGEMENTS
The most private area of your house are the spaces that you don’t want your guests to see. These
spaces are mostly the bedrooms, personal bathrooms, and in some cases, dens and home offices
where only family are allowed into these spaces. In a well-designed house, you would find a logical
sequence of spaces where you find public, semi-private, and private areas separated from each
other.
Providing a bedroom hallway to separate these spaces from your private and semi-private areas is
crucial to create a sense of privacy and comfort for your family members.
DESIGN 1
A typical bedroom arrangement
with a straight hallway leading to
all bedrooms on both sides. In
this design, I placed the doors
as far as possible from the living
room and dining room for
privacy.
If your proposed design provides
only one full bathroom for three
bedrooms, try placing it a centralized area for easy access, as
shown in this layout.
PRIMARY
BED.
BATH.
DINING
CL.
CL.
LINEN
BED. 2
LIVING
It is also very convenient if two
bathrooms share the same
plumbing wall, but don’t make
this a non-negotiable; make sure
to understand the priorities in
your design.
CL. CL.
BED. 1
DESIGN 2
Similar arrangement to design 1.
A straight hallway leading to all
bedrooms on both sides.
BED. 1
DINING
PRIMARY
BED.
The primary bedroom is larger
and has extra space for a sitting
area. The remaining three
bedrooms are slightly smaller
than in layout one.
The bathroom is in a centralized
location for easy access from
the three bedrooms.
GUEST
BATH.
CL.
CL.
LIVING
BATH.
BED. 3

CL.
BED. 2
SLEEPING AREAS
BEDROOM ARRANGEMENTS
BED. 1
GUEST
BATH.
CL.
LAUND.
W
BED. 2
D
W/D
CLOSET
CLOSET
CLOSET
BED. 2
BED. 1
DESIGN 3
Two-bedroom arrangement with one
full bathroom and a laundry closet
facing the hallway. You can use this
type of arrangement for designing
small apartments.
BED. 3
DESIGN 4
Three-bedroom arrangement with one full
bathroom, a small laundry room, and a
guest bathroom. You can apply this
arrangement for designing small houses.
BED. 1
W
CL.
BED. 1
CL.
D
CL.
CLOSET
CLOSET
BED. 2
BED. 2
DESIGN 6
Two-bedroom, one-bathroom layout
like design 5, with a larger bedroom 1
and no laundry closet.
DESIGN 5
Smaller version of the two-bedroom,
one-bathroom layout. You can use
this type of arrangement for
designing small apartments.

SLEEPING AREAS
PROVIDING PRIVACY TO SLEEPING AREAS
This technique is simple. If you want to create a sense of privacy between the sleeping areas and the
living areas, you have to create a transitional space between them.
NO HALLWAY
PROVIDED
HALLWAY
PROVIDED
HALLWAY
PROVIDED
HALLWAY
PROVIDED

SLEEPING AREAS
BEDROOM DESIGN
How do you know when a room can be legally called a bedroom? Here in North America, the legal
term is based on the minimum size of the room, the minimum size of the openings required to provide
emergency escape, natural light and ventilation, and how the room is connected with the rest of the
house and the exterior.
REQUIREMENTS ARE BASED ON
THE 2019 CALIFORNIA BUILDING CODE
IN BEDROOMS, PROVIDE OPERABLE ESCAPE WINDOWS
(AT LEAST ONE IN EACH BEDROOM) MEETING ALL OF THE
FOLLOWING:
PLEASE MAKE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODES.
BUILDING CODES DIFFER FROM
COUNTRY TO COUNTRY.
A NET CLEAR OPENABLE AREA NOT LESS THAN 5.7 SF.
(0.53m2) EXCEPTION: 5 SF (0.46m2) MIN. ALLOWED IF
LOCATED AT GRADE FLOOR OR BELOW GRADE
- A MINIMUM CLEAR OPENING HEIGHT OF 24” (61cm)
- A MINIMUM CLEAR OPENING WIDTH OF 20” (51cm)
- A SILL HEIGHT NOT OVER 44” (112cm) ABOVE THE FLOOR
HEATING MUST BE CAPABLE
TO MAINTAIN 68F (20C) OF
ROOM TEMPERATURE
44”
112cm
(MAX)
DOOR CANNOT
OPEN DIRECTLY
TO GARAGE
90”
229cm
(MIN)
10’-0”
3.0m
MINIMUM AREA OF
BEDROOM SHOULD BE 70 SF (6.5m2)
MINIMUM HORIZONTAL DIMENSION
OF BEDROOM SHOULD BE 7’-0” (2.13m)
ON ANY DIRECTION
7’-0”
2.13m
(MINIMUM)

SLEEPING AREAS
PROVIDING NATURAL CROSS VENTILATION TO BEDROOMS
The purpose for this strategy is very simple. To clean and change the air of your bedroom, you have
to open your windows, but also your door. High accumulation of CO2 reduces cognitive ability.
You can do this during the morning while not using the bedrooms. It doesn’t have to be done
permanently; a few minutes per day is enough.
ONLY WINDOWS OPENED
When it comes to ventilating a
bedroom, most people only open
the window with the bedroom
door closed.
WINDOWS AND DOORS OPENED
The idea is to create a path for
the air to pass through, opening
the doors and windows of the
opposite rooms.

SLEEPING AREAS
BEDROOM FURNITURE AND CLEARANCES
36” (91cm)
RECOMMENDED TRAFFIC
PATTERN FOR CLOSET
24” MIN
61cm MIN
KING
DIMENSIONS AROUND ONE BED
30” TO 36”
(76cm to 91cm)
IN FRONT OF CHEST
DRAWERS
24” TO 36” (61cm to 91cm)
RECOMMENDED
BETWEEN BEDS
36” (91cm)
RECOMMENDED TRAFFIC
PATTERN FOR CLOSET
DESK
48” TO 60”
(122cm TO 152cm)
RECOMMENDED
TRAFFIC BETWEEN
BED AND DESK
TWIN
TWIN
DIMENSIONS AROUND TWO BEDS
30” TO 36”
(76cm to 91cm)
IN FRONT OF CHEST
DRAWERS

SLEEPING AREAS
CALIFORNIA
KING
KING
76”
200cm
TWIN
38”
97cm
72”
183cm
80”
203cm
75”
190cm
60”
152cm
75”
191cm
QUEEN
84”
213cm
80”
203cm
80”
203cm
BED SIZES AND HDTV VIEWING DISTANCES FROM BED
TWIN XL
38”
97cm
FULL
54”
137cm
43” TV
5.5’ TO 9’ (1.7m
(1.7m TO 2.7m)
50” TV
6.5’ TO 10.5’ (2m
(2m TO 3.2m)
55” TV
7’ TO 11.5’ (2.1m
(2.1m TO 3.5m)
65” TV
8’ TO 13.5’ (2.4m
(2.4m TO 4.1m)
75” TV
9.5’ TO 15.5’ (2.9m
(2.9m TO 4.7m)
LINE OF SIGHT
14”
36cm
X+ 14”
X+ 36cm
X

SLEEPING AREAS
SIDE BY SIDE BEDROOM LAYOUTS
In design, there are situations where you can take many advantages in terms of the efficient use of
space. Having two rooms next to each other that share the same use of the space is one of them.
The need for both bedrooms to have a closet and the way you access them can help you provide an
efficient design solution, replicating it for both of them. Keep in mind that all these solutions have their
pros and cons.
8’-7”
2.62m
3’-4”
1.02m
3’-4”
1.02m
8’-7”
2.62m
11’-7”
3.52m
2’-0”
0.61m
QUEEN
QUEEN
12’-5”
3.78m
12’-5”
3.78m
DESIGN 1
A simple design solution with closets along one of the walls. The downside about this design is that it
does not provide sound control between both bedrooms, and a hallway may be needed to avoid doors
opening directly to the living and dining room areas.
14’-0”
4.27m
11’-2”
3.40m
2’-0”
0.61m
QUEEN
11’-2”
3.40m
QUEEN
25’-3”
7.70m
DESIGN 2
Placing the closets along the shared wall of both bedrooms can be a very efficient solution. It helps
provide sound control, but it reduces the size of the closets in length. As in design 1, a
hallway may be needed to avoid doors opening directly to the living and dining room areas.

SLEEPING AREAS
SIDE BY SIDE BEDROOM LAYOUTS
14’-0”
4.27m
12’-5”
3.78m
12’-5”
3.78m
QUEEN
9’-11”
3.03m
QUEEN
2’-0” 2’-0”
0.61m 0.61m
9’-11”
3.03m
DESIGN 3
Similar design solution as in design 2 but with larger closets in between both bedrooms. The
bedrooms become narrower on one side because of the closets location. The access to bedrooms
seems a little awkward because of the door opening directly to the closet wall.
14’-0”
4.27m
25’-3”
7.70m
QUEEN
9’-11”
3.03m
QUEEN
2’-0”
0.61m
2’-0”
0.61m
9’-11”
3.03m
DESIGN 4
This is a very efficient solution for small houses or apartments when you don’t have much space and
want to provide a sense of privacy. The layout allows for a transitional space between bedrooms and
the living room and dining room without the need for a hallway. Sound control is also provided by
placing the closets in between the bedrooms.

SLEEPING AREAS
PRIMARY BEDROOM DESIGN
The primary bedroom is the largest bedroom that has the most private and best location in the house.
In some cases, a primary bedroom also has access to its own walk-in closet and a full bathroom with
a vanity sink, bathtub, shower, and toilet enclosure.
16’-5”
5.01m
2’-3” 3’-0”
0.69m 0.91m
3’-10”
1.17m
2’-9” 3’-0”
0.83m 0.91m
4’-6”
1.38m
8’-7”
2.61m
WALK-IN
CLOSET
18’-0”
5.19m
12’-0”
3.67m
5’-0”
1.52m
12’-0”
3.65m
5’-0”
1.52m
28’-6”
8.69m
7’-0”
2.13m
28’-6”
8.69m
WALK-IN
CLOSET
17’-0”
5.19m
7’-1”
2.17m
4’-9”
1.45m
8’-7”
2.61m
6’-6”
1.98m
5’-1”
1.65m
6’-6”
1.98m
5’-10”
1.78m
4’-3”
1.28m
16’-5”
5.01m
BALCONY
BALCONY
17’-4”
5.29m
17’-4”
5.29m
PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 1
PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 2
DESIGN 1
Here are two design options using the same rectangular space in size. In this case, we
are assuming that the entry door leads directly to a hallway.
Option 1 has the walk-in closet on one side of the bedroom, which leaves a small
transitional space for accessing the bathroom and the walk-in closet.
Option 2 has the walk-in closet right in the middle of the bedroom, creating a passageway
connecting the bathroom with the entry door.

SLEEPING AREAS
PRIMARY BEDROOM DESIGN
13’-2”
4.01m
5’-0”
1.52m
BALCONY
6’-4”
1.94m
4’-5”
1.35m
13’-4”
4.06m
5’-0”
1.52m
3’-0”
0.91m
30’-0”
9.14m
7’-4”
2.23m
13’-4”
4.06m
30’-0”
9.14m
5’-0”
1.52m
WALK-IN
CLOSET
BALCONY
14’-3”
4.34m
14’-3”
4.34m
PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 1
PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 2
DESIGN 2
These two primary bedroom options also use the same rectangular space in size, but
in this case, we are assuming that the entry door leads directly to a semiprivate area
like a living room.
Option 1 has a bathroom that is accessed by passing through a small walk-in closet.
This allows for a more comfortable and larger bathroom.
Option 2 has a larger walk-in closet with part of it tucked into the bathroom. This
makes the bedroom area and the walk-in closet a little bigger, but sacrifices bathroom
space.

5’-0”
1.52m
3’-0”
0.91m
8’-4”
2.55m
WALK-IN
CLOSET
11’-9”
3.57m
6’-0”
1.83m
5’-0”
1.53m
5’-0”
1.52m
3’-6”
1.07m
5’-5”
1.66m
7’-3”
2.21m
13’-2”
4.01m
4’-3”
1.30m
SLEEPING AREAS
BATHROOM DESIGN
FIXTURE CLEARANCES AND DIMENSIONS
80” (MIN.)
203cm (MIN.)
30”
76cm
60”
152cm
14” TO 16”
36cm TO 41cm
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
ALCOVE BATHTUB
ALCOVE BATHTUB
72”
183cm
80”
203cm
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
TOILET
SHOWER STALL
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
INTERIOR CLEARANCE
RECOMMENDED: 36” (91 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 30” (76 cm)
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
SHOWER STALL

TOILET
CLEARANCE FROM
CENTER LINE TO SIDES
RECOMMENDED: 20” (51 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 15” (38 cm)
SLEEPING AREAS
FIXTURE CLEARANCES AND DIMENSIONS
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
CLEARANCE FROM CENTER
LINE TO CENTER LINE
RECOMMENDED: 36” (91 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 30” (76 cm)
22”
56cm
22”
56cm
CLEARANCE FROM
CENTER LINE TO SIDES
RECOMMENDED: 20” (51 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 15” (38 cm)
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
CLEARANCE FROM
CENTER LINE TO SIDES
RECOMMENDED: 20” (51 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 15” (38 cm)
DOUBLE VANITY SINK
CLEARANCE TO FRONT
RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm)
MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)
12”
30” TO 36”
76cm TO 91cm 30cm
MIRROR
60” TO 76”
152cm TO 193cm
VANITY SINK
DOUBLE VANITY SINK
VANITY SINK

SLEEPING AREAS
BATHROOM DESIGN - TYPICAL LAYOUTS
36”
91cm
30”
76cm
38”
97cm
60”
153cm
22”
56cm
36”
91cm
102”
259cm
DESIGN 1
The most common layout used in residential projects. Each plumbing fixture has enough clearance
space for a person and utilizes a linear single plumbing wall. Definitely the most practical of all.
30”
76cm
38”
97cm
60”
152cm
22”
56cm
72”
183cm
102”
259cm
DESIGN 2
Having a door opening directly to the toilet can feel visually awkward, but it always depends on
what your priorities are. If you don’t want your door to hit the toilet and want to give priority to
more storage space, then the visual aspect can become secondary.

SLEEPING AREAS
BATHROOM DESIGN - TYPICAL LAYOUTS
38”
95cm
30”
76cm
60”
152cm
30”
76cm
102”
259cm
DESIGN 3
The addition of a toilet enclosure could be a good solution for a large family with kids where
multiple people need to use the bathroom in a small house. While one person is taking a
shower, the other one can use the toilet at the same time.
30”
76cm
60”
152cm
30”
76cm
102”
259cm
22”
56cm
80”
203cm
DESIGN 4
This design prioritizes space in front of the toilet, sink, and plenty of room for a person getting
out of the tub / shower. The door opens inwards with easy access to the most utilized plumbing
fixtures.

SLEEPING AREAS
BATHROOM DESIGN
30”
76cm
22”
56cm
60”
152cm
36”
91cm
22”
56cm
36”
91cm
52”
132cm
30”
76cm
93”
235cm
89”
225cm
48”
122cm
36”
91cm
36”
91cm
112”
284cm
16”
41cm
93”
235cm
40”
102cm
DESIGN 1
Efficient linear flow and enough
space for circulation. The location of
the toilet is not visually appealing,
but the overall layout works well with
extra counter space.
DESIGN 2
Efficient layout as in design 1 but
with a larger footprint and an “L”
shaped type of flow. The shower is
larger, and the toilet is concealed
far from the entry. The downside in
this design could be the use of three
different plumbing walls.
30”
76cm
24”
61cm
30”
76cm
36”
91cm
30”
76cm
52”
132cm
22”
56cm
68”
171cm
72”
183cm
108”
274cm
102”
259cm
DESIGN 4
The most compact full bathroom floor
plan. Part of this bathroom could
be placed tucked in underneath the
stairs if you get enough headroom
clearance for the toilet.
DESIGN 3
Pocket sliding doors are not the
most practical solution. Over time,
tracks could be damaged and
rollers might be worn out, but they
still offer an alternate solution for
small bathroom design.

SLEEPING AREAS
PRIMARY BATHROOM DESIGN
144”
365cm
118”
300cm
27”
68cm
36”
91cm
65”
165cm
54”
137cm
29”
73cm
72”
183cm
168”
427cm
36”
91cm
38”
97cm
75”
190cm
95”
242cm
38”
97cm
Keep in mind that a
significant amount of space
is needed for these types of
designs. The cost is also
elevated due to the
quantity of finishes for a
large bathroom and the
types of plumbing fixtures
you will be using.
84”
212cm
22”
56cm
44”
112m
DESIGN 2
The luxury version of the
primary bathroom. This
design has a freestanding
tub, a double vanity sink, a
large shower, a toilet with a
glass enclosure, and plenty
of storage.
36”
91cm
69”
176cm

18”
46cm
75”
191cm
135”
343cm
Things that could be
improved in this design are
the awkward shape of the
toilet enclosure and the entry
door colliding with the glass
shower enclosure and the
closet door.
24”
62cm
DESIGN 1
A medium size bathroom
for a primary bedroom. The
bathtub is centrally placed
next to a picture window
where you can enjoy a nice
view. The toilet enclosure
allows for two people to use
the bathroom at the same
time.
12”
30cm
72”
183cm
22”
56cm
60”
152cm
SLEEPING AREAS
PRIMARY BATHROOM DESIGN
144”
366cm
16”
40cm
RAINFALL
SHOWERHEAD
72”
182cm
NICHE
52”
132cm
88”
223cm
36”
91cm
56”
142cm
PICTURE
WINDOW
FREE
STANDING TUB
BENCH
36”
91cm
72”
182cm
36”
91cm
CURBLESS
SHOWER
WALL
HUNG
TOILET
FLOATING VANITY
WITH SHELF BELOW
DESIGN 3
The location of the plumbing fixtures on each side of the space allows the creation of a center aisle,
generating an efficient linear flow. Although the circulation space may feel cramped, the bathroom
fulfills its basic purpose.
144”
366cm
72”
183cm
RAINFALL
SHOWER
HEAD
WETROOM
88”
223cm
66”
167cm
22”
56cm
72”
183cm
MEDICINE
CABINET WITH
MIRROR
PICTURE
WINDOW
FREE
STANDING TUB
NICHE
36”
91cm
36”
91cm
72”
183cm
FLOATING
VANITY WITH
SHELF BELOW
LINEAR
DRAIN
WALL
HUNG TOILET
DESIGN 4
Wet rooms are considered a high-end bathroom option, but in some cases, they can be a solution for
small spaces. This bathroom has the exact dimensions as in design 3, yet the space seems
bigger. The biggest challenge for a wet room is that the entire room enclosure gets wet, so it needs to
be entirely waterproofed.

KITCHEN AREA
Chapter 5
KITCHEN AREA

KITCHEN AREA
KITCHEN DESIGN
If we want to go back to the most basic concepts of a kitchen, we will have to go to the 19th century
and the beginning of the 20th century. At that time, family life was developed around a single source
of heat, which could be a fireplace or a coal oven. This single source of heat was used to warm the
room and was also used for cooking; therefore, all daily activities such as sleeping, eating, and
hanging out were carried out in a single space.
THE DIAGRAM PLAN THAT CHANGED IT ALL
The first gas stoves were developed in the 1820s, but it wasn't until the early 20th century that they
became widespread on the European Continent and in the United States. This was a huge game
changer in the design of new houses. People could have two sources of heat in two different places
instead of one; therefore, the design opportunities for a new house became broader.
In 1926, Austrian architect Margarete Schtte-Lihotzky came up with the diagram that revolutionized
how kitchens are designed nowdays, the "Frankfurt Kitchen". The design began as part of a project
for ten thousand social housing units, but it has defined the concept of the kitchen as we understand
it to this day.
The main idea of the “Frankfurt Kitchen” was to separate the cooking area in one single space based
on contemporary theories about efficiency, hygiene, and workflow. In planning the design, Margarete
conducted detailed time-motion studies and interviews with housewives and women’s groups. She
measured to the millimeter the dimensions that everything had to have to minimize the number of
steps you take to complete each task.
11’-3”
3.44 m
DOOR
1
2
3
4
5
7
2’-10”
0.86m
6’-2”
1.87m
1. GAS STOVE
2. COUNTERTOP
3. COOK BOX
4. FOLD-DOWN IRONING BOARD
5. FOOD CUPBOARD
6. SWIVEL STOOL
7. WORK SURFACE
8. GARBAGE DRAWER
9. DRAINING BOARD
10. SINK
11. ALUMINUM STORAGE BINS
12. CUPBOARD FOR POTS AND PANS
13. BROOM CLOSET
14. HEATER
15. PULL-OUT BOARDS
6
8
15
13
12
FRANKFURT KITCHEN

11
10
10
9
KITCHEN AREA
THE KITCHEN TRIANGLE
When I was in architecture school, I was taught that
when designing a kitchen, the workflow was very
important and consisted of taking the food out of
the refrigerator, washing it, chopping it, and finally,
cooking it.
Times change, and kitchens have become more
modern with increasingly sophisticated appliances,
and its use changes from person to person.
Nowadays, I don't think that all designs must be
based on the workflow of the working triangle, but it
is a good point to start your design.
Before designing a kitchen, always plan how you or
your clients are going to use the space. It is
recommended that you create a list and ask several
questions:
Do I want it to be enclosed in a separate room?
•
Do you want it to be part of an open floor plan?
•
•
How often do you cook and for how many
people?
•
How many people are going to cook at the same
time?
•
Do you like to entertain and have family and
people over for parties?
WORK TRIANGLE - “L” SHAPED
7’0”
7’- 3m 2.13 0”
2.1 2.44m m
8’-0”
WORK TRIANGLE - GALLEY
”
-7
5’ 0m
1.7
•
6’-9”
2.06m
m
2.74
9’-0”
7’
2.1 -2”
8m
The idea is that the total distance of the triangle's
three sides (the perimeter) should measure greater
than 12 feet (3.7 m) and less than 26 feet (7.9 m),
ensuring that no side is greater than 9 feet (2.7 m)
or less than 4 feet (1.2 m). The triangle flow should
not be interrupted with cabinetry or furniture.
4’
1.4 -9”
5m
The kitchen triangle concept was developed in 1940
and was designed “to maximize the efficiency” with
only a few appliances available at that time: the
refrigerator, the sink, and the stove.
2.13m
7’-0”
WORK TRIANGLE - “U” SHAPED

KITCHEN AREA
TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS
GALLEY KITCHEN
A galley kitchen consists of two parallel
walls with base cabinets, wall cabinets,
appliances, and counters arranged on
both sides of a long central walkway.
This is a great option if you have little
space for your kitchen; however, if there
is not much space between counters,
it could cause congestion if it is used
by more than one or two people at the
same time.
FRIDGE
SINK
75”
191cm
24”
61cm
m
49
4c
24”
61cm
m
33”
84cm
12
”
5c
39”
99cm
”
61
15
36”
91cm
42”
107cm
STOVE
75” + 61” + 49” = 185” = 15’-5”
191cm + 155cm + 124 = 470cm = 4.70m
24”
61cm
26’-0” > 15’-5” > 12’-0”
7.9m > 4.70m > 3.7m
48”
122cm

36”
91cm
48”
122cm
KITCHEN AREA
TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS
“U” SHAPED KITCHEN
“U” shaped kitchens generally need a
large space, and because they require
the use of three walls, the workflow is
more comfortable and efficient since the
distances are shorter.
Due to their shape, they require corner
cabinets, and a bad design decision
could result in a lot of wasted space, so
it must be carefully designed.
In general, Lazy Susans and pull-out
shelves are the most suitable tray
systems for taking advantage of these
blind corners, but they can increase the
cost of the project.
SINK
”
0c
27”
69cm
33”
84cm
27”
69cm
24”
61cm
66” + 55” + 81” = 202” = 16’-10”
168cm + 140cm +206cm = 514cm = 5.14m
26’-0” > 16’-10” > 12’-0”
36”
91cm
FRIDGE
18”
46cm
STOVE
60”
152cm
81”
206cm
42”
107cm
m
36”
91cm
m
”
14
8c
66
16
24”
61cm
55
7.9m > 5.14m > 3.7m

KITCHEN AREA
TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS
ONE-WALLED KITCHEN
If you do not have much space
available, a one-walled kitchen may be
what you need. It makes use of minimum space, and it is typically found in
lofts and studio apartments.
This style places the three workstations
in a single file, mounting the appliances
and cabinets on one wall.
The downside is that placing the
workspaces beside one another would
leave no space for a countertop
between them. If you have enough
space on the opposite side, you could
add an island to this design.
30”
76cm
55”
140cm
STOVE
58”
147cm
SINK
FRIDGE

30”
76cm
24”
61cm
33”
84cm
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
KITCHEN AREA
TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS
“G” SHAPED KITCHEN
A “G” shaped kitchen is basically a “U”
shaped kitchen with a peninsula at the
end of one side.
This type of distribution requires a larger
space because of the peninsula
addition.
Like “U” shaped kitchens, the workflow
is more comfortable and efficient since
the distances are shorter.
24”
61cm
59
91”
232cm
”
STOVE
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
17”
46
cm
40”
91cm
36”
91cm
26’-0” > 16’-9” > 12’-0”
33”
84cm
36”
91cm
FRIDGE
61” + 59” + 81” = 201” = 16’-9”
155cm + 151cm +206cm = 512cm = 5.12m
33”
84cm
17” 24”
46 61cm
cm
1cm
24”
61cm
15
30”
100cm
m
5c
15
61
”
SINK
33”
84cm
7.9m > 5.12m > 3.7m

KITCHEN AREA
TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS
“L” SHAPED WITH ISLAND
In general, kitchens with islands are
the ones that require the most space,
since you need to have minimum space
around the island depending on how
many cooks are going to use the
kitchen.
Usually, this type of kitchen is
incorporated in open floor plan designs
where the island faces the living room
or dining room area.
The island gives you the flexibility to
convert the workspace into a seating
area according to the needs of your
design.
FRIDGE
36”
91cm
42”
107cm
24”
61cm
42”
107cm
42”
107cm
26’-0” > 16’-0” > 12’-0”
36”
91cm
70” + 42” + 80” = 192” = 16’-0”
179cm + 107cm +203cm = 489cm = 4.89m
24”
61cm
m
SINK
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
”
7c
203cm
42”
107cm
42
STOVE
10
”
70 m
9c
17
80”
24”
61cm
7.9m > 4.89m > 3.7m
40”
102cm

24”
61cm
32”
81cm
24”
61cm
KITCHEN AREA
KITCHEN WORKING ZONES
Like I mentioned before, the kitchen working
triangle is a good point to start your kitchen, design
but it has some limitations and doesn’t work for all
kitchens.
Kitchen zones are separate workspaces within a
layout, each intended for a different task, and if
they are well located, it can improve your workflow
and efficiency.
Kitchen zones are based on your own workflow
and preferences, and additional zones can be
added according to your needs. These may
include zones for working or studying, or even
a kitchen zone for watching TV.
FOOD STORAGE
The food zone is the area around the refrigerator and the pantry closet where you store
most of your grocery shopping food items.
CLEANING
The sink and the dishwasher are the central
point of the cleaning area, and it is
recommended to have countertop space on
each side. The use of this zone is not only
limited to washing dishes and utensils, but it
also includes washing up vegetables,
unpacking frozen items, filling up pots, etc.
PREPARATION
This is the countertop space where you cut,
chop, knead, etc., which requires ample
surface space. Keep all the cookingware
and utensils that you are going to use to
prepare the ingredients as close as possible
to the preparation area.
COOKING
The cooking area is located where your
range is, and it is recommended to be adjacent to your preparation zone. You should
have your cookware, utensils, spices, and
condiments within easy reach. The oven
is also part of this area, but it doesn’t have
to be in this area, since it is not used that
often.
86”
218cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
SERVING
If your kitchen design includes a seating
area like a peninsula, this is the zone where
you serve food, drinks, or place snacks for
your family or guests.
STORAGE
127”
323cm
15”
38cm

This is where you keep kitchenware,
appliances, trays, and other utensils. Keep
the things you use every day within easy
reach like mugs, cereal bowls, dinner
plates, etc., and store larger items like pots
and pans in your base cabinets.
KITCHEN AREA
RECOMMENDED COUNTERTOP LANDING AREAS
A kitchen landing area is countertop space that you need to place, or land, items from the sink,
refrigerator, cooking surface, and oven areas. These landing areas have the recommended
dimensions based on the tasks that you complete while cooking.
18”
46cm
36”
91cm
18”
46cm
SINK LANDING AREA
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
One important thing to keep in mind is to not get stuck in this recommended landing area dimensions.
Always design your kitchen based on the available space that you have, specially when you have
limited space; however, allways prioritize to have at least 24” (61cm) between range, sink and
refrigerator.
15”
38cm
12”
30cm
15”
38cm
12”
30cm
COOKING SURFACE LANDING AREA
15”
38cm
15”
38cm
MICROWAVE LANDING AREA
MICROWAVE LANDING AREA

KITCHEN AREA
RECOMMENDED COUNTERTOP LANDING AREAS
15”
38cm
15”
38cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
15”
38cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
9”
23cm
15”
38cm
12”
30cm
15”
38cm
12”
30cm
15”
38cm
REFRIGERATOR LANDING AREA
COOKING SURFACE LANDING AREA ON ISLANDS
COMBINING LANDING AREAS
If two landing areas are adjacent to each other, a new minimum space should be provided based on
the longer of the two areas and adding an extra 12” (30.5cm).
15”
38cm
ADD 12”
30cm
ADD 12”
30cm
36”
92cm
18”
46cm
COMBINING LANDING AREAS

KITCHEN AREA
KITCHEN CABINETS
There are basically three types of kitchen cabinets that are related to the type of production method
used to make them: custom, semi-custom, and in-stock. For the purposes of this book, I am going to
focus on in-stock cabinets, which tend to be the most used across the kitchen design industry.
In-stock cabinets are built based on industry standard styles and measurements. They are available
in modular units, and no customization is available. The advantages are that they are affordable and
ready to install.
BASE CABINETS
34 1/2 inches
Standard depth
(front to wall no countertop)
24 inches
Standard widths
12, 15, 18, 24, 30, 36
inches
34.5”
88cm
Standard height (no countertop)
25”-2
64cm 6”
-66cm
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
36”
91cm
As their name implies, they provide the base for
countertops, sinks, and cooktops. They also provide
storage space for large items like pots, pans, and small
kitchen appliances.
Always check dimensions supplied by your kitchen
cabinet manufacturer.
WALL CABINETS
30”
76cm
They are attached directly to the wall.
12”
30cm
Standard depths
12 or 24 inches
Standard widths
9 to 48 inches, in 3-inch increments
Always check dimensions supplied by your kitchen cabinet
manufacturer.

36”
91cm
Standard heights 12, 15, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42 inches
KITCHEN AREA
These are usually used as pantries or utility cabinets due
to their height. Sometimes, they can extend from floor to
ceiling.
Standard heights
84 or 96 inches
Standard depths
12 or 24 inches
Standard widths
12, 18, 24 or 36 inches
24”
61cm
12”
30cm
84”
213cm
TALL CABINETS
Always check dimensions supplied by your kitchen
cabinet manufacturer.
BLIND CORNER BASE CABINETS
A blind corner cabinet can encompass a surprising
amount of space on the interior, but that space can
be hard to reach.
Accessories like pull-out shelves and Lazy Susans
help to optimize every inch of that space.
HALF MOON LAZY SUSAN
CLOUD SHAPE PULL-OUT SHELVES
RECTANGULAR PULL-OUT SHELVES

KITCHEN AREA
WALL CABINETS OR OPEN SHELVES?
42”
107cm
96”
15”-18” 244cm
38-46cm
24”-30”
61-91cm
36”
91cm
18”
46cm
36”
91cm
27”
69cm
30”
76cm
27”
69cm
30”
76cm
30”
76cm
KITCHEN WITH WALL CABINETS
Standard kitchens with wall cabinets give you more storage space and help you keep all
your kitchen items clean and away from dust. From a practical standpoint, cabinets are
more suitable for houses.
12”
30cm
24”-30”
61-91cm
13.5”
34cm
36”
91cm
18”
46cm
36”
91cm
27”
69cm
30”
76cm
27”
69cm
30”
76cm
12”
30
cm
30”
76cm
KITCHEN WITH OPEN SHELVES
Kitchen shelves look aesthetically pleasing, open the space, and you can also use them to
showcase your beautiful dishware. On the downside, they are prone to accumulate dust,
and the available storage space can be limited. From a practical standpoint, shelves are
more suitable for small apartments.

96”
244cm
KITCHEN AREA
KITCHEN SECTIONS
COUNTERTOP HEIGHT
The standard height for a
countertop is 36” (91cm). This
distance is measured from the
floor to the countertop work
surface, assuming a 34.5” (88cm)
base cabinet height plus a 1.5”
(3.8cm) thick countertop.
However, counters with a height
of 34” (86cm) will suit most
wheelchairs, and if you are taller
than average, 39” (99cm) will suit
you better.
TOE KICK
A toe kick is the recessed area on
a base cabinet that provides room
for your feet, which allows you
to stand closer to the countertop
more comfortably.
COUNTERTOP OVERHANG
Countertop overhang is the
distance from the leading edge
of the countertop to the front of
the base cabinets (not including
cabinet doors). The standard
overhang is 1 to 1.5 inches
(2.5cm to 3.8cm).
STANDARD WALL
CABINET HEIGHTS:
30”, 36”, 42”
76cm, 91cm, 107cm
15” TO 18”
38cm TO 46cm
34” TO 39”
86cm TO 99cm
1” to 1.5”
2.5cm to 3.8cm
3”
8cm
3.5”
9cm
COUNTERTOP
OVERHANG
TOE KICK
IDEAL HEIGHT FOR
A RANGE HOOD
Hood ranges should be installed
at the correct height, so that any
unpleasant odors or smells are
efficiently removed from the
kitchen while you cook. If the
wrong height for the hood is
installed and it ends up being
too close to the gas cook top, it
could potentially catch fire.
However, if you are using an
electric cooktop, there are no
flames involved; hence, the
height and distance could be
significantly less.
RANGE HOOD
HEIGHT PER
MANUFACTURER
20” TO 24”
51cm TO 61cm
(FOR
FOR ELECTRIC COOKTOP)
24” TO 30”
61cm TO 76cm
(FOR GAS COOKTOP)
34” TO 39”
86cm TO 99cm

KITCHEN AREA
KTCHEN ISLAND SEATING HEIGHTS
15”
38cm
COUNTERTOP HEIGHT
Counter-height seating is provided by
extending the kitchen island countertop
to create a 15” (38cm) overhang to keep
the same standard counter height of 36”
(91cm). A counter-height kitchen island
provides a clear view of the entire
kitchen and gives the impression of a
larger kitchen space.
36”
91cm
23”
58cm
COUNTERTOP HEIGHT
18”
46cm
TABLE HEIGHT
A portion of the kitchen island counter
gets lowered to provide the same height
as a dining table, offering the ideal
height to comfortably sit on a standard
chair and have a meal.
36”
91cm
30”
76cm
17”
43cm
TABLE HEIGHT
12”
30cm
BAR HEIGHT
Bar-height kitchen islands are usually
42" (107cm) off the floor to the
countertop and stand 6" (15cm)
higher than the standard kitchen island,
which works well with bar stools. The
raised area also helps to conceal dirty
dishes or clutter near the sink. Children
and the elderly may find it hard to use
the raised seating.
42”
107cm
36”
91cm
BAR HEIGHT

30”
76cm
KITCHEN AREA
RECOMMENDED KITCHEN AISLE WIDTHS
40”
102cm
42”
107cm
1 COOK AISLE WIDTH
32”
81cm
KITCHEN COUNTER
OPPOSITE A TABLE
40”
102cm
48”
122cm
KITCHEN COUNTER
OPPOSITE A WALL
2 COOK AISLE WIDTH

KITCHEN AREA
TYPE OF RANGE HOODS
SUB-FLOOR
SUB-FLOOR
WALL MOUNT THROUGH ROOF
The most common type of hood. They
are mounted against a wall in the
kitchen and vented directly out the roof.
RETRACTABLE DOWNDRAFT
This system is a great solution for
kitchen island cooktops and for creating
a modern and minimal look, but they
have a lower efficiency of drawing steam
from taller pots and pans.
SUB-FLOOR
SUB-FLOOR
WALL MOUNT THROUGH WALL
If your kitchen is located on the first level
and you have a second floor above,
running ducts through your roof may not
be possible, and you will need to vent
through an exterior wall.
CEILING FLUSH MOUNT THROUGH ROOF
This is also a great solution for kitchen
island cooktops but not the most
functional. For maximum efficiency, they
require a higher flow rate, and the hood
needs to be larger than the cooktop
because they are installed far from the
cooking surface.

KITCHEN AREA
CABINET STYLES
HOOD
VENT
COVER
WOOD
SHELVES
POT FILLER
GAS
RANGE
RAISED PANEL
The most traditional of all styles. The center panel of the cabinet door is raised above the rest of the
door, and there is usually a recessed border around it. This is a great option if you are looking for a
rustic or traditional look.
HOOD
NICHE
ELECTRIC
COOKTOP
INSET
When closed, the door sets inside and flush with the cabinet frame instead of outside, leaving a tiny
gap around the door. This type of cabinet also fits into almost any design style, from traditional to
modern.

KITCHEN AREA
CABINET STYLES
HOOD
WOOD
SHELVES
NICHE
GAS
RANGE
SHAKER OR RECESSED PANEL
The most popular style in North America, consisting of four flat pieces creating a rectangular frame
with a flat panel in the center. This type of cabinet blends well into many kitchen designs whether you
are looking for a traditional, modern, or contemporary look.
HOOD
VENT
COVER
POT
FILLER
GAS
COOKTOP
FLAT PANEL OR SLAB
The simplest of all styles. Cabinet doors are made of a flat panel, offering clean lines and a minimalist
form. This is a great fit if you are looking for a contemporary or modern look.

KITCHEN AREA
KITCHEN LAYOUTS WITH DIMENSIONS
In-stock cabinets are built based on industry standard styles and measurements and are available in
modular units. These are two examples of modular kitchens with dimensions.
30”
27” 24”
76cm 69cm 61cm
15”
38cm
36”
91cm
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
36”
91cm
24” 27”
61cm 69cm
“L” SHAPED KITCHEN WITH PENINSULA
MICROWAVE
INSET
CABINETS
FARMHOUSE
SINK
WATERFALL
COUNTERTOP

KITCHEN AREA
KITCHEN LAYOUTS WITH DIMENSIONS
36”
91cm
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
24” 21” 24”
61cm 53cm 61cm
36”
91cm
24”
61cm
36”
91cm
3”
8cm
24”
61cm
24”
61cm
24” 24”
61cm 61cm
18”
46cm
“L” SHAPED KITCHEN WITH ISLAND
SLAB
CABINETS
WINE
COOLER

KITCHEN AREA
COMMON KITCHEN DESIGN MISTAKES TO AVOID
BASE CABINET FILLER
Don’t place drawers in corners
or next to a wall. Always use a 3”
or 6” base cabinet filler, which is
a piece of finished wood used to
“fill” gaps between cabinets and
walls.
DRAWERS IN CORNERS
Drawers should not be placed right
in the corner of base cabinets. It
is always recommended to place
doors instead.
APPLIANCES IN CORNERS
The sink, oven, and dishwasher
should never be placed against
a wall or in a corner, as it makes
accessibility difficult.
AND ADDITIONAL
* RANGE
COUNTER SPACE IS NOT
SHOWN FOR CLARITY
REFRIGERATOR DOOR
When deciding where to place your refrigerator, always check how the door is going to open and how
this is going to affect the circulation and working flow in your kitchen.

UTILITY AREAS
Chapter 6
UTILITY AREAS

UTILITY AREAS
LAUNDRY ROOM DESIGN
36”-40”
91cm-102cm
STANDARD DIMENSIONS AND CLEARANCES
When designing a house, laundry rooms seem to
have the least importance of all rooms. In some
cases, washers and dryers are located in an empty
basement or a garage, and these spaces end up
being neglected and not maximized.
A dedicated laundry room can bring many benefits;
you can have cabinets to organize linens, laundry
products, and other cleaning products. Doing
laundry becomes more organized when everything
is in one place.
EXTERIOR
WALL
VENT HOOD
24” (61cm)
IDEAL
DISTANCE
6” (15cm)
15cm) MIN.
7”-15”
CLEARANCE
18cm-38cm
BEHIND MACHINES
PEDESTAL HEIGHT
STANDARD WASHER AND DRYER
CLEARANCES (SIDE VIEW)
70”-75”
178cm-191cm
35”-43”
89cm-109cm
34”
86cm
7”-15”
18cm-38cm
28”-34”
71cm-86cm
”
27 m
c
69
PEDESTAL
STANDARD WASHER
AND DRYER DIMENSIONS
24”-27”
61cm-69cm
23”
58cm
COMPACT WASHER
AND DRYER DIMENSIONS
24”-27”
61cm-69cm
27”
69cm
STACKABLE WASHER
AND DRYER DIMENSIONS
12”
30cm
60”
152cm
W
58”
147cm
82”
208cm
D
48”
122cm
6”(15cm) CLEARANCE
6”(15cm)
BEHIND WASHER AND
DRYER TO ALLOW FOR
HOOKUPS AND VENTING
34”
86cm
EXTERIOR WALL
WASHER AND DRYER
CLEARANCES (ISOMETRIC VIEW)
130”
330cm
1” (2.5cm)
(2.5cm)
SPACE
BETWEEN
MACHINES
WASHER AND DRYER
CLEARANCES (PLAN VIEW)

UTILITY AREAS
COMPACT SIZE LAUNDRY ROOM DESIGN
22”
56cm
22”
56cm
36”
91cm
48”
122cm
40”
102cm
48”
122cm
40”
102cm
60”
152cm
W
W/D
D
A
B
A
B
110”
279cm
110”
279cm
STACKABLE WASHER AND DRYER
LAUNDRY ROOM
SIDE BY SIDE WASHER AND DRYER
LAUNDRY ROOM
70”-75”
178cm-191cm
43”
109cm
17”
43cm
36”
91cm
43”
109cm
43”
109cm
17”
43cm
14”
36cm
36”
91cm
39”
99cm
SECTION A-A
SECTION B-B
STANDARD SIZE LAUNDRY ROOM DESIGN
34”
87cm
60”
152cm
W
23”
58cm
D
50”
127cm
48”
122cm
W/D
24” 23”
61cm 58cm
12”
30cm
84”
213cm
30”
76cm
30”
76cm
48”
122cm
92”
234cm
24”
61cm
130”
330cm
102”
260cm
STACKABLE WASHER AND DRYER
LAUNDRY ROOM
SIDE BY SIDE WASHER AND DRYER
LAUNDRY ROOM

UTILITY AREAS
LAUNDRY ROOMS WITH PET STATION
24”
61cm
106”
269cm
54”
137cm
28”
71cm
120”
305cm
60”
152cm
60”
152cm
SIDE BY SIDE WASHER
AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM
27”
69cm
48”
122cm
24”
61cm
46”
117cm
106”
269cm
36”
91cm
12”
27”
30cm 69cm
PERSPECTIVE PROJECTION
120”
305cm
STACKABLE WASHER
AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM
PERSPECTIVE PROJECTION

UTILITY AREAS
GARAGE DESIGN
Designing a garage may sound like a simple task: you just apply the minimum dimensions and that is
all. As simple as it seems, this area can have more design potential than you think.
You can add a workshop area, a storage room or a home gym. When not occupied by a car,
garages can become a place where you can benefit from the large amount of space.
10’-0”
3.05m
20’-0”
6.10m
20’-0”
6.10m
20’-0”
6.10m
9’-0”
2.74m
16’-0”
4.88m
SINGLE CAR GARAGE
2-CAR GARAGE
20’-0”
6.10m
28’-0”
8.53m
9’-0”
2.74m
16’-0”
4.88m
3-CAR GARAGE

UTILITY AREAS
GARAGE DESIGN
20’-0”
6.10m
36’-0”
10.97m
4-CAR GARAGE
4’-11”
1.50m
STORAGE
7’-8”
2.34m
W
D
20’-0”
6.10m
24’-6”
7.47m
WORKSHOP
3’-8”
1.12m
6’-8”
2.03m
3’-8”
1.12m
16’-0”
4.88m
4’-2”
1.27m
16’-0”
4.88m
16’-0”
4.88m
20’-0”
6.10m
2-CAR GARAGE WITH WORKSHOP AREA

UTILITY AREAS
96”
244cm
84”
213cm
TYPES OF GARAGE DOORS
96”
244cm
84”
213cm
SECTIONAL DOOR
TILT-UP DOOR

96”
244cm
84”
213cm
ROLL-UP DOOR
STAIRCASES
Chapter 7
STAIRCASES

STAIRCASES
TYPES OF STAIRCASES
Obviously serving an important functional purpose, which is going from point “A” to “B”, staircases
have different sizes and shapes, and they require a lot of thought when deciding which one is the
most suitable for your design project.
Below are the most common types of staircases used in residential projects, and like any other
design decision, all of them have their pros and cons.
STRAIGHT CANTILEVERED STAIRS
“L” SHAPED WINDER STAIRS
SPIRAL STAIRS
“U” SHAPED STAIRS

STRAIGHT STAIRS WITH NO LANDING
“L” SHAPED STAIRS
STAIRCASES
DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES
One of the challenges that we encounter while designing a two-story house is where to locate the
stairs. They take up a lot of space, and their location affects the final design of both floors. Here are
four examples showing which type of staircase to use based on the amount of space available.
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SPIRAL STAIRCASES
Spiral staircases are the most practical
when it comes to saving space. They can
fit in tight spaces, and their access point
can be faced in any direction according
to your needs.
They also have a few disadvantages.
Because of their compact size and
circular shape, they are a lot steeper and
narrower than a normal staircase. They
can be difficult to use for kids, seniors,
and people with mobility problems.
FLOOR
FLOOR
BATH.
KITCHEN
LOFT
CL.
DN
OPEN
TO BELOW
LIVING
1ST FLOOR
2ND FLOOR
ENTRY

STAIRCASES
DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES
“L” SHAPED STAIRCASES
“L” shaped staircases are basically two flights of
stairs that change direction by 90 degrees after
a landing.
UP
Because of their shape, they are probably one of
the most flexible staircase types to
accommodate in any kind of floor plan design.
They can be placed in any corner, and the void
squared space between flights could be used as
a closet or storage space, or you could simply
add a piece of furniture.
FLOOR
FLOOR
BEDROOM
BEDROOM
CL.
CL.
DN
CL.
BATH.
CLOSET
BEDROOM
CLOSET
CL.
KITCHEN
BATH.
BATH.
LIVING
DINING
1ST FLOOR
2ND FLOOR
ENTRY

STAIRCASES
DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES
STRAIGHT STAIRCASES
A straight staircase consists of a single
flight of steps without any changes in
direction.
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Like any other stairs, they need a
landing when the distance between floor
levels is greater than 12 feet (3.7m).
You can generate endless design options
when finding a location for them in your
project. They can be embedded in a wall
to create a focal point in any room in your
house.
FLOOR
Because of their straight shape, they can
also be used for narrow floor plans and
designs.
FLOOR
BATH.
DINING
BEDROOM CL.
KITCHEN
DN
OPEN
TO BELOW
LIVING
FOYER
CL. BEDROOM
BATH.
1ST FLOOR
2ND FLOOR
ENTRY

BATH.
STAIRCASES
DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES
“U” SHAPED STAIRCASES
This is another type of staircase that can be
easily accommodated in your design. Because
of their squared shape, they can be tucked
into an alcove in between two walls without
wasting any space.
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The one or two landings that they provide
make them safer and easier to use for kids
and people with mobility problems.
FLOOR
LANDING
FLOOR
BEDROOM
BATH.
BEDROOM
CL.
BEDROOM
CL.
CL.
DN
BEDROOM
BATH.
BATH.
CL.
BATH.
KITCHEN
LIVING
DINING
1ST FLOOR
2ND FLOOR
ENTRY

CLOSET
STAIRCASES
DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES
WINDER STAIRCASES
This consists of any type of staircase that
replaces the use of squared landings by using
triangular shaped steps to turn 90 degree
corners.
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These stairs require less space compared to
the other types, but the triangular shape of the
steps in the corners make them a little more
difficult to navigate for kids, seniors, and
people with mobility problems.
These stairs need to be carefully designed to
follow building code requirements.
FLOOR
FLOOR
BATH.
BATH.
BEDROOM
CL.
CL.
CL. BEDROOM
LAUND.
BATH.
CL.
TV
ROOM
BATH.
DN
BEDROOM
BEDROOM
CL.
KITCHEN
LIVING
DINING
2ND FLOOR
1ST FLOOR
ENTRY

STAIRCASES
STAIRCASES AS FOCAL POINTS
We often see a staircase as a functional element for the sole purpose of connecting the different
levels of a house. Stairs have the potential to become a design element capable of emphasizing the
beauty of a space.
CANTILEVERED WITH
GLASS RAILING
If you are looking for a sleek and
clean design option, cantilevered
stairs combined with a glass railing
create that sense of transparency
that immediately draws your
attention.
STORAGE CABINETS
Even cabinets under your
staircase can draw your eye to
that area. You can have fun
playing with different design
options and geometric patterns.
CANTILEVERED WITH
SHELVES
Adding horizontal shelves as a
continuation of the stair steps can
create an interesting texture
underneath them. Make sure that
shelves and steps are separate
pieces to avoid vibration.
CANTILEVERED WITH
CABLE RAILING
Adding a cable railing to a
cantilevered stair can bring that
industrial vibe to any room and
become focal point of the room.

STAIRCASES
MAXIMIZING UNDERSTAIRS SPACE
The space underneath your staircase has more potential than you think, especially if it is a straight
staircase. You can turn it into something practical like a space to put a desk or a laundry closet, and if
you have enough headroom space, you can fit a full bathroom in there.
36”
91cm
98”
249cm
36”
91cm
98”
249cm
DESK - OFFICE SPACE
43”
109cm
43”
109cm
60”
152cm
36”
91cm
43”
109cm
LAUNDRY CLOSET
STORAGE SPACE
GUEST BATHROOM

18”
46cm