ZAMBIA Stepping carefully through the grass, you freeze instantly as your guide raises his hand. The sun creeps over the horizon to warm you with the first rays of the day. The guide crouches, pointing to elephant bathing in the river. Behind Young eagle owl In addition to 4WD games drives, Zambia offers Africa's best walking safaris you the game scout scans the horizon, his hand gently holding the stock of a polished KAFUE rifle. Your gaze is aware of the slightest movement. Your Pages 68-69 Zambia’s largest national park is higher, cooler and less developed than either the Lower Zambezi or the Luangwa. Top spot for big game; the Busanga Plains are a particularly amazing area. ears alert to every sound. This is Zambia – the wild heart of Africa. WHY ZAMBIA? Nchila Reser ve ● Zambia remains the preserve of very few visitors, though this is slowly changing. It is still wild, full of big game and boasts some of the best guides in Africa. Thornicroft's giraffe are endemic to the Luangwa Valley Walking safaris were pioneered in the country’s Luangwa Valley, and the guides here rank amongst the best on the continent. You’ve got to be good to lead guests on a walk, and for many years now the safari guides in the Luangwa and Lower Zambezi have passed through a stringent system of guiding exams before taking charge of visitors. Such high standards of ‘bushcraft’ will add enormously to your experience, be it in a vehicle or on foot. ● MWINILUNGA SOLWEZI ● GETTING AROUND ZAMBIA For the latest detailed travellers’ reviews, visit www.expertafrica.com Once there, you’ll stay in intimate camps that will tailor their activities around your interests. Most organise two activities per day; one in the morning, the other in the late afternoon/early evening. Each lasts about three or four hours and you’ll usually choose what you want to do the night before. Your days will be fairly full but there’s always a few hours after lunch for a light siesta! Satellite maps of Zambia Our website now incorporates satellite maps of Africa, including Zambia. Just click Maps on the menu of www.expertafrica.com – you can zoom into the country in amazing detail. The camps and lodges are clearly marked with links to relevant trip ideas and information. 66 | ZAMBIA ● WEST LUNGA NATIONAL PARK Busanga Plains LIUWA PLAIN NATIONAL PARK Zambia’s other big advantage is that night drives are allowed within its national parks. This adds a new dimension to gameviewing, with the opportunity to see a different range of animal species, from the elusive leopard to the amusing porcupine “We left this trip very much in your hands, and you found a great rhythm to the whole trip. The way that we were introduced to each country, the variety of experiences, the fitting of the camps to our style of travel – it felt like you knew us intimately, and understood us completely… As a 25-day trip to Africa, we couldn't have done it better ourselves, even had we taken a year to plan it.” Mr. H & Ms. B from California ChimfunshI Kafue KAFUE NATIONAL PARK MONGU ● The distances between Zambia’s parks are huge and its roads are not always smooth, so virtually all of our trips involve flying among the national parks in light aircraft. LOCHINVAR NATIONAL PARK ● SENANGA SIOMA NGWEZI NATIONAL PARK Most of these flights run to fixed schedules, although if you travel away from the main parks to more remote areas, like Bangweulu and North Luangwa, then we’ll often charter small planes. River Za m be Nanzhila Plains zi Ri ve r ● KATIMA MULILO NAMIBIA Chete Island ● ● LIVINGSTONE ● VICTORIA FALLS BOTSWANA LOCHINVAR Page 81 Vast flat floodplains, beside the Kafue River, act as a magnet for birds, bird-watchers and large numbers of endemic Kafue lechwe. LIVINGSTONE & THE VICTORIA FALLS Page 77 Along with one of the wonders of the world, you’ll find good-value hotels close by, a handful of lovely riverside lodges, terrific curios and a host of adrenaline activities. Page 117 This is the deepest lake in Africa and the size of a sea, but difficult to access. Best visited whilst with the chimps of Tanzania’s Mahale Mountains. BANGWEULU REGION Pages 78-79 A varied, offbeat region that’s often visited on a second or third trip to Zambia. Superb bird-watching and interesting animals amidst rural Zambian life. Lake Mwer u MBALA ● NCHELENGE ● The vast majority of camps offer the choice of walks or drives on a daily basis; typically you’ll make a choice over dinner for the following day. By contrast, a couple of the Luangwa’s bushcamps only offer walking. These are generally tiny camps in remote areas where there are no roads – like Mwaleshi and Kutandala in North Luangwa, and Chikoko and Crocodile in South Luangwa. They are specialist camps and well worth seeking out if you love walking. Lake Tanganyika Lake Mwer u Wantipa Camps offer activities which vary from walking to 4WD safaris, both day and night. Those near navigable rivers, including the Kafue and Lower Zambezi, will often also offer boat safaris, canoeing and sometimes fishing. On all these trips, you’ll be guided by a knowledgeable, professional guide. ZAMBIA 4WD OR WALKING SAFARI? LAKE TANGANYIKA SUMBU NATIONAL PARK SHIWA NG’ANDU Page 79 Explore an extraordinary stately home steeped in history, along with its surrounding country estate. Walk, ride and take boat trips whilst marvelling at Shiwa’s present as well as its past. KASAMA ● Lake Bangweulu ISANGANO NATIONAL PARK ● MANSA ● Shiwa N’gandu NORTH LUANGWA Ban gweulu Wetlands NORTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK Mutinondo Wilderness ● LAVUSHI MANDA ● KITWE SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK KASANKA N.P. NDOLA ● ● MFUWE CHIPATA ● Ri ve r ● SERENJE MALAWI ● MPIKA Lu an gw a ● KAPIRI MPOSHI Pages 72-76 Zambia’s premier park offers superb big game and some of Africa’s best walking safaris. To get the best out of the Luangwa, spend at least a week here, including some time in its smaller bushcamps. WHAT’S THE WALKING LIKE? ● Lechwe Lodge Lake Kariba SOUTH LUANGWA MOZAMBIQUE LUSAKA ● ● CHIR UNDU Page 75 This more remote sibling of South Luangwa has just a couple of tiny bushcamps which focus exclusively on walking safaris; a great destination for safari addicts. LOWE R Z AM B E ZI N ATION AL PAR K LUSAKA Page 81 Although Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, has few major attractions, you may need to overnight here before catching British Airways’ early morning flight back to London. ZIMBABWE LOWER ZAMBEZI Page 70-71 Adjacent to the languid flow of the great Zambezi River, this area has excellent big game and a beautiful mountain backdrop. Also come for boat trips, canoeing and great fishing. If you have only seen animals from a vehicle and longed to get out, then walking with big game is an amazing experience; it’s exhilarating to the point of addiction. Camps differ, but usually you’ll set off with a guide, an armed game scout, and often a tea-bearer carrying refreshments. Walks have a maximum of seven guests, but two to five is more usual. You don’t need to be especially fit to walk in Zambia; walking safaris aren’t route marches or endurance tests. Instead they’re about taking time to spot the signs of the wildlife and learn how the ecosystems work. The distance covered depends on the wildlife that you find and the interests of the walkers, but two to five miles would be typical. You’ll stop frequently for your guide to educate, enlighten and often entertain you with tales of the bush around you. The ground underfoot is always uneven, though rarely steeply inclined, so sensible shoes or light boots are ideal. You need to carry your camera and binoculars and ideally you should wear muted colours and a hat. Bradt Guide to Zambia Chris McIntyre, who runs Expert Africa, is author of Zambia: The Bradt Travel Guide. This is widely regarded as the most comprehensive guidebook available on Zambia, and its fourth edition will be published at the start of 2008. You’ll find it on sale at most good bookshops, price £17.99; alternatively copies (signed or unsigned) are available direct from us for the special price of £15 (including p&p) – refundable from the cost of any Zambian trip booked with us. ZAMBIA | 67