REV.06-03-2020 GB
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
• Patented technology
TECHNOLOGY OVERVIEW
(lipo-polypeptides based on olive oil fatty acids and oat)
• Vegetable derived self emulsifying base
• Moisturizing active with instant tensor effect
• Lamellar liquid crystals builder
• Silicon like sensorial effect
• Designed through the combination of active ingredients
with anti-ageing action
(emolliency increase, homeostasis balance)
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
Smart solution to formulate sensorially advanced
emulsions with neither post-applicative
foam/whitening nor «rubbering»
.
Easy to use, applicative versatility, to develop:
• O/W emulsions of any type
(fluid lotions, sprays, gels, creams, sunscreens,
foundations, butters, mascara)
• improve the texture of formulations
.
Despite its ‘’technical’’ nature,
it is a dualistic active ingredient
TECHNOLOGY OVERVIEW
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
MARKET POSITIONING
Cosmetics with
Advanced sensorial features (silicon like emulsions)
Green and eco-sustainable philosophy
Worldwide use
Cosmos Ecocert approved
Vegan sourcing
RSPO Mass Balance grade available
China compliant version available
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
OIL IN WATER ANIONIC EMULSIFYING UNIT: CHEMICAL NATURE
Lipo-polypeptide containing
condensed olive oil fatty acids
and
oat polypeptides,
.
Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
+
Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl oleate
forming an anionic amphiphilic
unit able to form liquid crystal
systems in the oil/water
interphase and a skin moisturizing
macromolecule
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
RATIO: CHOICE OF OLIVE OIL FATTY ACIDS
• Millenary use in personal care
• Olive oil is an icon of Mediterranean lifestyle
• Healthy features objectified in food & cosmetics industry
• Unique source of Oleic acid
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
RATIO: CHOICE OF OLIVE OIL FATTY ACIDS
The choice of olive fatty acids depends on the unique texture and dermocompatibility
given by Oleic and Linoleic acid:
• unsaturated fats
• abundantly found in olive oil (total amount ≈ 80%)
• providing the skin with:
.
• Emolliency (superior absorption and skin penetration compared to other fatty acids)*
• «Second skin» effect
• Soft touch and silicon like sensoriality
*Biointerphases. 2013 Dec;8(1):3.
Studying the penetration of fatty acids into
human skin by ex vivo TOF-SIMS imaging.
Kezutyte T, Desbenoit N, Brunelle A, Briedis V.
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
RATIO: OLIVE OIL FATTY ACIDS PROFILE
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
OLEIC ACID AND LINOLEIC ACID SKIN BENEFITS
Oleic acid
Linoleic acid
.
.
• Among most abundant fatty acids found on skin fats
• increases delivery of actives by modulating skin
permeability (proven activity as pharmaceutical delivery
system*)
• fluid and flexible structure easily melted to skin
hydrolipidic film (‘’SECOND SKIN’’ EFFECT)
• Redness reduction properties
• building block for skin ceramides
• anti-inflammatory and skin lightening
properties
**Int J Pharm. 2012 Apr 4;425(1-2).
Oleic acid based heterolipid synthesis, characterization and
application in self-microemulsifying drug delivery system.
Kalhapure RS, Akamanchi KG.
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
RATIO: CHOICE OF OAT POLYPEPTIDES
• Reference active ingredient for soothing and sensitive skin
applications
• Proven skin elasticity, tightness and hydration increase
• Immediate improvement of skin ability to respond to deformation
• Immediate tensor effect on wrinkles
Hydrolysed proteins in cosmetic production, part II SOFW- Jan. 2008
Marta Scibisz Jacek Arct Katarzyna Pytkowska
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
LAMELLAR LIQUID CRYSTALS FORMED BY OA: TECHNICAL AND FUNCTIONAL ADVANTAGES
Typical liquid crystal patterns observed at PLM
Liquid crystals are sophisticated fluids of the 4th state (intermediate between crystalline
and liquid status) as they show: Optical features of the crystalline form (visible by
polarized light microscope) such as birefringence and double coloration Mechanical
features of the liquid form (fluidity and superficial tension)
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: TECHNOLOGY
LAMELLAR LIQUID CRYSTALS FORMED BY OA: TECHNICAL AND FUNCTIONAL ADVANTAGES
Provide the skin with water, lipids and actives by time prolonged release
Microemulsions based on lamellar liquid crystals
are the ideal systems for building dermocompatible emulsions
«Second skin» effect is given by their resemblance to the skin phospholipids network
Increased emulsion stability and versatility of use
(possibility of formulating efficient sprays and stable micro-emulsions loaded with
pigments/minerals/sun filters)
SCIENTIFIC
OBJECTIFICATION
IN VIVO TEST: TEWL FOR SKIN MOISTURIZATION EVALUATION
MOISTURIZING ACTION
%
TRANS EPIDERMAL WATER LOSS TEST - SKIN HYDRATION
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
lipo-polypetide (OA) reduces the SLES
related water transpiration more than
50% at just 0.5% a.m.
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
BASAL
10% SLES
9.5% SLES +
0.5% OA
10% OA
Water
Used alone, its TEWL value matches
the result of water
MICROSCOPE ANALYSIS OF OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIONS
LIQUID CRYSTALS IMPARTED STRUCTURE- OPTICAL MICROSCOPE PATTERN
Eyepiece W15-13 nm
MICROSCOPE ANALYSIS OF OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIONS
LIQUID CRYSTALS IMPARTED STRUCTURE- OPTICAL MICROSCOPE PATTERN
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
@5%
based cream optical
microscope pattern with
variable oily phase amounts
(20% and 50% of Sweet
Almond oil)
IN VIVO APPLICATION TEST
SENSORIAL TESTS
OA emulsion w/o actives
Botox like and lifting actives OA based emulsion
100
80
60
40
OA emulsions were evaluated for one month
(2 applications per day) by a panel, comparing
several sensorial parameters of the same
formulation with and without market benchmark
lifting and botox like actives
20
0
Silkiness
Pleasant texture
[ * = % of 40 panelists expressing positive judgements ]
Absorption
OA emulsion w/o actives gave the same positive
score as the emulsion loaded with actives
IN VIVO APPLICATION TEST
PERCEIVED EFFICACY TESTS
OA emulsion w/o actives
OA emulsions were evaluated for one month
(2 applications per day) by a panel comparing
several functional parameters of the same
formulation with and without market benchmark
lifting and botox like actives
Botox like and lifting actives OA based emulsion
60
40
20
0
Hydration
Replumping
Anti-wrinkle
* = [ %* of 40 panelists expressing positive perceived efficacy ]
Firmness
OA emulsion w/o actives, despite the lack of
benchmark advanced active ingredients, gave
results comparable to the loaded emulsion
IN VIVO APPLICATION TEST
SKIN ELASTICITY
OA emulsion w/o actives
Botox like and lifting actives OA based emulsion
8
7
6
5
OA emulsions were tested for one month (2
applications per day) by a panel comparing the skin
elasticity (Δ% R2- SKIN VISCO-ELASTICITY) of the
same formulation with and without market
benchmark lifting and botox like actives
4
3
2
1
0
[* = Mean of % variation of R2 between T0 and T4W ]
p < 0.05
OA emulsion w/o actives gave visco-elasticity
increase of + 6.8 % values compared to the 7.7%
value of the cream loaded with actives
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER- SCIENTIFIC DOSSIER PUBLICATION
TECHNICAL AND FORMULATION STUDIES
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER additional information and
formulation studies are found in C&T publication
[ C&T cover page dedicated to Olivoil emulsifiers ]
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: WAY OF USE
STEP 1
Pour 1/3 of the water phase into
the oily phase , and following
some minutes of stirring, add the
remaining 2/3 of water phase
(‘’INDIRECT EMULSIFYING
METHOD’’).
Mix with high shear rate at high
temperature. Decrease slightly
the shearing while approaching to
50° C. Regulate the final pH
between 5.5 ÷ 7.0
Alternatively, the ‘’Direct Emulsifying’’ (pouring oily
phase in the water phase) method is easily applicable
STEP 4
Warm up until the oily phase
gets melted and the water
phase reaches similar
temperature
STEP 2
Olivoil emulsifiers are waxy
blocks to be added to the oily
phase - The melting point is
around 65 ÷ 70 °C
STEP 3
LABORATORY SCALE METHOD OF USE
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: WAY OF USE
PRODUCTION SCALE METHODS OF USE
DIRECT PROCESS
The oily phase has to be added to the water phase under thorough stirring.
INDIRECT PROCESS
KalichemLABS favourite
1/3 of water phase has to be added to the oily phase under thorough
stirring. Add the remaining 2/3 of water
ONE POT METHOD
Add all ingredients one at a time; when all the ingredients have been
added, provide the system with high shear rate
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: WAY OF USE
FORMULATION COMPATIBILITIES
POLYMERS
.
• Xanthan gum
• Hydroxyethylcellulose
• Carbomer
@ 0.15 ÷ 0.5 %
@ 0.4 %
@ 0.4 %
OILY PHASE CHOICE
.
• Anionic emulsifier not strictly
depending on HLB
(avg values calculated @ ≈ 12)
• Compatible with
low/medium/high polarity oils
• Optimum with
low polarity oils
COMPATIBLE WITH
NATURAL GUMS
(Sclerotium, Carrageenan, Guar
derivatives etc.)
POLYMERIC EMULSIFIERS
(acrylates polymers)
For additional detailed and customized info, please
contact Kalichem technical support service department
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: WAY OF USE
pH OF USE
• Emulsions should have final pH not below 5.5
if the emulsifier is used as self emulsifying base
FORMULATION COMPATIBILITIES
pH COMFORT ZONE
.
• Values below 5.5 could partially hydrolyze the lipoaminoacid and affect the long term stability
.
• Olivoil Avenate Emulsifier is compatible to many acid
preservatives and COSMOS approved preservatives
(compatibility list available on demand)
.
• Ideal also at alkaline pH values (around 8)
For additional detailed and customized info, please
contact Kalichem technical support service department
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: WAY OF USE
FORMULATION RECOMMENDATIONS
CONCENTRATION OF USE
Oily phase %
OA %
5 ÷ 10 %
1÷5%
10 ÷ 20 %
3÷8%
20 ÷ 50 %
5 ÷ 10 %
The emulsifier concentration
range depends on texture and
viscosity desired, stabilizers
addition, oily phase nature
The concentration of use for
texturizing & sensorial
enhancing is: 1,0 ÷ 2,0 %
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: WAY OF USE
FORMULATION RECOMMENDATIONS
STABILIZING POLYMERS USE & TEXTURE DESIRED PRINCIPLES
.
• Polymers like Xanthan gum improve water phase stabilization and the emulsion «pick»
.
• Carbomers, acrylates polymers, consistency factors, non ionic emulsifiers addition to
the emulsion allows to use the lowest values expressed in the pointed ranges
.
• Using higher concentration of emulsifier will increase the emulsion viscosity and the
intensity of the silicon like effect
.
• Using lower concentration will make the emulsion evanescent, immediately absorbed
and extra light
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: APPLICATIONS
APPLICATION FIELDS & BENEFITS
SILKY EMULSION
.
•
Snow white colored emulsions
.
•
Silky after feel & Tensor Effect
.
•
Soft and creamy consistence
.
•
Luxury texture
.
•
No post-applicative FOAM/WHITENING effect
and no rubbering
.
•
Ideal for face, eye-lashes, hands and body care
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: APPLICATIONS
APPLICATION FIELDS
SPRAYABLE – HYPER FLUID EMULSIONS
.
• The liquid crystal emulsifier structures the oily
phase down to <2 µm oily phase droplets
•
The oily phase droplets size promotes:
•
•
Easy sprayability
Efficient jet
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: APPLICATIONS
APPLICATION FIELDS
ROLL-ON DEODORANT EMULSIONS
• The liquid crystal emulsifier structures the oily
phase down to <2 µm oily phase droplets along
with an efficient deodorizing minerals suspension
• Roll on emulsion with quick absorption and
efficient mineral suspending features
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: APPLICATIONS
APPLICATION FIELDS
COLORED CREAMS & SUNSCREENS
•
•
•
•
Foundation
BB Creams
CC Creams
SPF Emulsions
• Pigments & Minerals
finely and homogeneously suspended
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: SUSTAINABILITY
SOURCING, ACKNOWLEDGED CERTIFICATIONS AND NATURALITY PARAMETERS
The main emulsifying unit (OA) is sourced from
Olea Europaea and Avena Sativa,
vegetable species with recognized sustainability
The co-emulsifiers
(glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl oleate) are
sourced from Olea Europaea and sustainable vegetable oils
Kalichem is member of the RSPO family as supply chain
associate (license # 9-2407-18-100-00)
Cosmos Ecocert approved, Vegan standards compliant,
ISO16128 Natural percentage above 90%
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER: MARKETING CLAIMS
MARKETING CLAIMS
• PEG and Sulfate free
• Moisturizing, tensor effect, elasticity enhancer,
soothing, nourishing and emollient
• Cosmos approved - sustainable sourcing- high
naturality values
• Olive fats and oat derived
• Formulating natural with silicon like sensoriality
FACE CREAM- BASE EMULSION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
5.0 ÷ 10.0
2
Coco caprylate
9.0
3
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
7.0
4
Cetyl alcohol
5.0
5
Lecithin, tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid
0.1
6
Aqua
to 100.0
7
Glycerin
3.5
8
Xanthan gum
0.1 ÷ 0.3
9
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
as needed
Base cream formulation
skeleton; the % range
proposed of emulsifier and
xanthan gum enables to
obtain emulsions with
different viscosity and
‘’picking’’ features, with a
directly proportional
increase through the use of
higher amounts.
.
Recommended final
pH not below 5.5
HYPERFLUID SPRAYABLE LOTION- BASE EMULSION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
4.0
2
Coco caprylate
6.0
3
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
6.0
4
OLIVOIL PCA FOKSNAB
5.0
5
Lecithin, tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid
0.1
6
Aqua
to 100.0
7
Glycerin
1.0
8
Microcrystalline cellulose
1.0
9
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
as needed
Base hyperfluid lotion
formulation skeleton; ideal
for body sprays, baby care
moisturizing creams, aftersun emulsions.
Recommended final
pH not below 5.5
CLEANSING MILK / MAKE UP REMOVER- BASE EMULSION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
4.0
2
Coco caprylate
6.0
3
Dicaprylyl carbonate
6.0
4
Propylene glycol
2.0
5
Lecithin, tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid
0.1
6
Aqua
to 100.0
7
Glycerin
1.0
8
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE SURFACTANT
2.0
9
Xanthan gum. Sclerotium gum
0.4
10
Chondrus crispus extract
0.25
11
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
as needed
Base cleansing milk
formulation skeleton; ideal
for make up removing
Applications on the eye
area suitability depends on
the excipients used.
Recommended final
pH not below 5.5
ROLL ON DEODORANT- FUNCTIONAL DEODORIZING EMULSION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
2.0
2
Coco caprylate/caprate
2.0
3
Dicaprylyl carbonate
4.5
4
Tocopheryl acetate
0.2
5
Aqua
6
Panthenol
0.5
7
Aqua, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
0.2
8
Xanthan gum. Sclerotium gum
0.4
9
Chondrus crispus extract
0.25
10
DEOHAP DRY
20.0
11
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
Hyperfluid deodorant
formulation, with quick
absorption, and deodorizing
minerals suspended. Ideal
for roll-on.
to 100.0
as needed
Recommended final
pH not below 5.5
‘’COSMOS’’ FOUNDATION MOUSSE BASE EMULSION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
10.0
2
Heptyl undecilenate
6.5
3
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
8.5
4
Tocopheryl acetate
1.0
5
Cetyl alcohol
4.5
6
Aqua
40.75
7
Glycerin
3.0
8
Glyceryl caprilate
0,75
9
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE SURFACTANT
3.0
10
Mica, silica, titanium dioxide, iron oxides (RELIEF COLOR BEIGE)
10.0
11
Aqua
10.0
12
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE SURFACTANT
2.0
13
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
as needed
Foundation cream in mousse
form, ideal for application in
tube or airless dispensers
containing up to 10% of
minerals/pigments
Recommended final
pH not below 5.5
SPF 30 SUNSCREEN- BASE FORMULATION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
8.0
2
C12-15 alkyl benzoate
6.0
3
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
4.0
4
Octocrylene
8.0
5
Homosalate
8.0
6
Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
4.0
7
APALIGHT SP
4.0
8
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
0.1
9
Xanthan gum
0.15
10
Glycerin
3.0
11
Aqua
to 100.0
12
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
as needed
SPF 30 lotion formulation
skeleton, ideal for body
application.
Recommended final
pH not below 5.5
SPF 25 MINERAL SUNSCREEN- BASE FORMULATION
#
INCI
[%]
1
OLIVOIL AVENATE EMULSIFIER
4.0
2
Decyl oleate
8.6
3
Mirystyl myristate
1.0
4
Zinc oxide (and) methicone
16.0
5
Aqua
40.6
6
Sodium magnesium fluorosilicate
1.0
7
APALIGHT SP
3.0
8
Propanediol
4.0
9
Sodium levulinate, sodium anisate
0.8
10
Aqua
6.8
11
Xanthan gum
0.4
12
Triheptanoin
4.2
13
Tocoferol, helianthus annus seed oil
0.6
14
Perfum
0.3
SPF 25 mineral formulation.
Ideal for baby care
applications
Recommended final
pH not below 6.0
REFERENCE VARIANTS
VARIANTS AVAILABLE
[ Cosmos Ecocert version
Sustainable sourcing ]
MB
C
[ Mass balance RSPO
verified Version ]
[ China compliant version ]
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FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT AND SUPPORT SERVICE
A FURTHER HELP TO FORMULATORS
Formulation development for customized
projects and/or formulation support service
carried by Kalichem Labs in partnership with
Ambrosia Lab, spin-off unit of the
University of Ferrara
Via Luigi Alessandrini 8
25086 Rezzato
Brescia – Italy
+ 39 030 2693532
+ 39 030 2193581
www.kalichem.it
kalichem@kalichem.it