Uploaded by Shyna Vanessa Brillantes

History of Corsets: Definition, Types, and Evolution

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Definition of Corset
It is a woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the
chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure. Corset is a tool for slimming the
waist and exaggerating the hips and bust in order to achieve the desired
hourglass figure.
History of Corset
ANTIQUITY
Fashion history reveals the first recorded corset originated from Crete in
Greece, worn by the Minoan people. Both Minoan people men and women
use corset in this time.
MIDDLE AGES
 In the Gothic period of the 1300's, experts speculate that
bandages may have been used to slim the waist underneath long and
tight fitting clothes.

While in 1400’s, front laced bodices were worn, stiffened with
strengthened fabric and sometimes even with brass wires. Agnes Sorel,
mistress to Charles VII of France, started a trend when she wore a gown in
the French court which fully exposed her breasts.
 On the 15th century, the 'cotte', a tight fitting garment whose name
meant 'on the rib', was first worn in France during this century. During
this time, the wealthy French women were known to desire a thinner
waistline, using stiffened linen undergarments, tightened by front or
back laces, known as stays or bodies to achieve the look.
 During the 1500's, French aristocrat Catherine de Medici made an
influential mark in fashion by banning 'thick waists' at court. This
promoted the wearing of corsets by wealthy women in the public view.
 16th century, instead of shaping clothes to the body, as had been done
throughout the Middle Ages, the body began to conform to the
fashionable shape of the clothing worn. Busk were introduced in Spain
a corsets were supported in the front by a vertically placed wooden or
bone which produced a flat shape, and was reinforced elsewhere with
whalebone stays.
 The 1700’s brought on an even more constricting shape. During this
time the corset was made from stiff material, in which rows were
closely stitched encasing whalebone, cane or hemp like materials. The
design itself were long - waisted and cut with a narrow back, wide front,
and shoulder straps; the most fashionable stays pulled the shoulders
back until the shoulder blades almost touched.
 During the 18th century, corsetry was the introduction of the front
fastening busks in 1848. This allowed a woman to have independence
and put on her corset easily by herself. The new busk was gently curved
to follow the natural posture and lines of the body for comfort rather
than the stiff busk popular in the early part of the century.
EDWARDIAN ERA (1904- 1911)
In this era, the ideal shape of a woman changed, therefore it was
necessary for corsets to be majorly redesigned. Small waists still remained
popular, but the fashionable silhouette had changed. Corsets forced shoulders
upright and formed a long sloping bust that ended with a graceful curve over
the hips, creating the famous "Gibson Girl" look. The body shape created was
called the S-Bend, as the curves of a lady's figure resembled the curves of the
letter S.
THE TEENS (1912-1919)
Corsets during this time period still used a straight busk and straight
front, but their function was not to compress the waist to exaggerate the bust
and hips, but to minimize the abdomen and hips. A top heavy appearance was
sought after, as women wanted their bust to be emphasize, and the rest of their
torso to measure in the same line.
1920's – 1950’s
Due to the lack of supplies after the War, women's fashion began to evolve into
simpler lines. Looser shapes, with a straight silhouette from shoulder to hem became
the norm.
A variety of corset styles were available, such as 'hip confiners' and 'sports corsets'.
These simpler styles were designed for a lower bust line, with lighter boning at the
front and back.
1930's, slightly more fitted silhouettes emerged. Women still wanted to have slim
hips, but now desired a more prominent waistline. Garments continued to have a
dropped and were often cut with angled seams, and wider hemlines, incorporating
gores, godets and pleats.
Between 1930’s and 40’s, corsets continued to be mid-thigh length, but began to
include built in brassieres, evolving into all in one foundation garment. These full
body corsets usually had side hook and eye fastenings and hidden heavily boned
inner girdles or belts.
1950's saw the girdle become commonly worn by females. The girdle was
constructed out of nylon and latex rubber, and provided the firm outline
required by fashion. Strategic panels were placed in order to smooth the
stomach and give flat line and a flat bottom, contrasting the breasts from the
rest of the figure.
1980’s TO PRESENT
The 1980’s were a relatively prosperous time for the world. Designers had a lot of
freedom as celebrities and supermodels emerged wearing designer names. The 80's
saw the return of the corset, but this time as a part of the outer design of apparel,
worn by famously by popular culture icons, such as Madonna, who wore corsetry
design by Jean Paul Gaultier for her many stage performances.
In the 90's ranges of controlling slips were introduced to the public, which similar to
corsets, were worn to slim the figure, and are argued to eliminate any visible panty
line underneath tight fitting clothes.
In today’s society, corsets are usually reserved for costume, stage performance
or waist training, yet some still purchase them for the uses that they were
designed for hundreds of years ago.
Kinds of Corset
1. Under bust corsets - begin right under the breasts
and usually end at the beginning of your lap.
Types of Under bust Corset
 Long line




Extends over the hips, for tall women with long torsos, offers the most
coverage.
Cincher
A shorter under bust), pointed silhouette (an under bust that’s longer at
the center front and back, but shorter at the sides.
Corsets with wide straps
Such as halter and cross-back style, can be both over bust and under
bust, best for girls with wider shoulders
Bodice
Ends around the natural waist, has straps and generally provides the
most coverage and support for the whole back and the shoulders
Waspie
The shortest under bust, a waspie is practically a wider belt and only
goes around a woman’s stomach. This provides a somewhat smaller
waist, but is less constricting. It is usually worn only for fashion
purposes, layered over shirts and dresses. However, it can be also made
with steel boning for waist training.
2. Over bust corsets - usually begin just under
your arms and end above the hips. They lift up
the breasts, while reducing the waistline, offer
great support for the back and can be worn as
casual everyday wear or elegant evening wear,
over or under the clothes. The downside of an
overbust is that it’s not as versatile as an
underbust, so you can have one style, and one
style only.
Types of Over bust Corset
 Cupped corsets
Have built-in pads, women with larger
breasts prefer this kind of corset
because it gives better support.
 Bustiers
A bustier is traditionally worn under
the clothes, to push up the bust and
shape the waist gently (basically a bra
+ shape wear combo).
 Flat front style
It is a modern version of a Victorian
corset with a straight-across neckline.
 Sweetheart neckline
It is the modern standard, usually for formal events
and weddings. It’s the most classic and feminine
type of an over bust. Best for women with average
build and curves, to accentuate the hourglass
figure.
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