Definition of Corset It is a woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure. Corset is a tool for slimming the waist and exaggerating the hips and bust in order to achieve the desired hourglass figure. History of Corset ANTIQUITY Fashion history reveals the first recorded corset originated from Crete in Greece, worn by the Minoan people. Both Minoan people men and women use corset in this time. MIDDLE AGES In the Gothic period of the 1300's, experts speculate that bandages may have been used to slim the waist underneath long and tight fitting clothes. While in 1400’s, front laced bodices were worn, stiffened with strengthened fabric and sometimes even with brass wires. Agnes Sorel, mistress to Charles VII of France, started a trend when she wore a gown in the French court which fully exposed her breasts. On the 15th century, the 'cotte', a tight fitting garment whose name meant 'on the rib', was first worn in France during this century. During this time, the wealthy French women were known to desire a thinner waistline, using stiffened linen undergarments, tightened by front or back laces, known as stays or bodies to achieve the look. During the 1500's, French aristocrat Catherine de Medici made an influential mark in fashion by banning 'thick waists' at court. This promoted the wearing of corsets by wealthy women in the public view. 16th century, instead of shaping clothes to the body, as had been done throughout the Middle Ages, the body began to conform to the fashionable shape of the clothing worn. Busk were introduced in Spain a corsets were supported in the front by a vertically placed wooden or bone which produced a flat shape, and was reinforced elsewhere with whalebone stays. The 1700’s brought on an even more constricting shape. During this time the corset was made from stiff material, in which rows were closely stitched encasing whalebone, cane or hemp like materials. The design itself were long - waisted and cut with a narrow back, wide front, and shoulder straps; the most fashionable stays pulled the shoulders back until the shoulder blades almost touched. During the 18th century, corsetry was the introduction of the front fastening busks in 1848. This allowed a woman to have independence and put on her corset easily by herself. The new busk was gently curved to follow the natural posture and lines of the body for comfort rather than the stiff busk popular in the early part of the century. EDWARDIAN ERA (1904- 1911) In this era, the ideal shape of a woman changed, therefore it was necessary for corsets to be majorly redesigned. Small waists still remained popular, but the fashionable silhouette had changed. Corsets forced shoulders upright and formed a long sloping bust that ended with a graceful curve over the hips, creating the famous "Gibson Girl" look. The body shape created was called the S-Bend, as the curves of a lady's figure resembled the curves of the letter S. THE TEENS (1912-1919) Corsets during this time period still used a straight busk and straight front, but their function was not to compress the waist to exaggerate the bust and hips, but to minimize the abdomen and hips. A top heavy appearance was sought after, as women wanted their bust to be emphasize, and the rest of their torso to measure in the same line. 1920's – 1950’s Due to the lack of supplies after the War, women's fashion began to evolve into simpler lines. Looser shapes, with a straight silhouette from shoulder to hem became the norm. A variety of corset styles were available, such as 'hip confiners' and 'sports corsets'. These simpler styles were designed for a lower bust line, with lighter boning at the front and back. 1930's, slightly more fitted silhouettes emerged. Women still wanted to have slim hips, but now desired a more prominent waistline. Garments continued to have a dropped and were often cut with angled seams, and wider hemlines, incorporating gores, godets and pleats. Between 1930’s and 40’s, corsets continued to be mid-thigh length, but began to include built in brassieres, evolving into all in one foundation garment. These full body corsets usually had side hook and eye fastenings and hidden heavily boned inner girdles or belts. 1950's saw the girdle become commonly worn by females. The girdle was constructed out of nylon and latex rubber, and provided the firm outline required by fashion. Strategic panels were placed in order to smooth the stomach and give flat line and a flat bottom, contrasting the breasts from the rest of the figure. 1980’s TO PRESENT The 1980’s were a relatively prosperous time for the world. Designers had a lot of freedom as celebrities and supermodels emerged wearing designer names. The 80's saw the return of the corset, but this time as a part of the outer design of apparel, worn by famously by popular culture icons, such as Madonna, who wore corsetry design by Jean Paul Gaultier for her many stage performances. In the 90's ranges of controlling slips were introduced to the public, which similar to corsets, were worn to slim the figure, and are argued to eliminate any visible panty line underneath tight fitting clothes. In today’s society, corsets are usually reserved for costume, stage performance or waist training, yet some still purchase them for the uses that they were designed for hundreds of years ago. Kinds of Corset 1. Under bust corsets - begin right under the breasts and usually end at the beginning of your lap. Types of Under bust Corset Long line Extends over the hips, for tall women with long torsos, offers the most coverage. Cincher A shorter under bust), pointed silhouette (an under bust that’s longer at the center front and back, but shorter at the sides. Corsets with wide straps Such as halter and cross-back style, can be both over bust and under bust, best for girls with wider shoulders Bodice Ends around the natural waist, has straps and generally provides the most coverage and support for the whole back and the shoulders Waspie The shortest under bust, a waspie is practically a wider belt and only goes around a woman’s stomach. This provides a somewhat smaller waist, but is less constricting. It is usually worn only for fashion purposes, layered over shirts and dresses. However, it can be also made with steel boning for waist training. 2. Over bust corsets - usually begin just under your arms and end above the hips. They lift up the breasts, while reducing the waistline, offer great support for the back and can be worn as casual everyday wear or elegant evening wear, over or under the clothes. The downside of an overbust is that it’s not as versatile as an underbust, so you can have one style, and one style only. Types of Over bust Corset Cupped corsets Have built-in pads, women with larger breasts prefer this kind of corset because it gives better support. Bustiers A bustier is traditionally worn under the clothes, to push up the bust and shape the waist gently (basically a bra + shape wear combo). Flat front style It is a modern version of a Victorian corset with a straight-across neckline. Sweetheart neckline It is the modern standard, usually for formal events and weddings. It’s the most classic and feminine type of an over bust. Best for women with average build and curves, to accentuate the hourglass figure.