West Kernow Way
Experience the best of West Cornwall
on a 230km bikepacking adventure
Guy Kesteven
First published in the United Kingdom in 2021 by Cycling UK, Parklands,
Railton Rd, Guildford GU2 9JX
The West Kernow Way: Experience the best of West Cornwall on a 230km
bikepacking adventure © 2021 Cycling UK
Text © 2021 Cycling UK
Photographs for full list of copyright see p.107
Route researched by Kieran Foster
Route guide written by Guy Kesteven
Edited by Sophie Gordon, Cherry Allan, Rob Kingston and Keir Gallagher
Design by Roger Morgan www.morgan-creative.co.uk
Maps produced by Kieran Foster
Map data by Ordnance Survey © Crown copyright 2021 OS 100045061
Historical Bartholomew 1920s maps reproduced with the permission of the National Library
of Scotland under Creative Commons licence (CC-BY)
Development of the West Kernow Way and the production of this route guide have been funded
through EXPERIENCE, a €23.3 million project co-financed by the European Regional Development
Fund (ERDF, €16 million) through the Interreg VA France (Channel) England Programme 2014–2020.
This project will harness the experiential tourism trend to extend the season (October–March),
generating 20 million new off-season visitors spending €1 billion across six pilot regions in
England and France by June 2023.
With thanks to:
National Trust and Natural England for agreeing to provide a permissive access route across
the Lizard National Nature Reserve
Cornwall Wildlife Trust, the Tin Coast Partnership and the Penwith Moors Partnership for
feedback on the route
The EXPERIENCE team at Cornwall Council
British Horse Society volunteers who had already submitted Definitive Map Modification Applications
for sections of the route, especially Adrian Biggs for all of his efforts
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other
information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.
Printed and bound in the UK
Introduction
Welcome
Cycling UK has been shouting about
the joys and benefits of cycling in the
countryside for 143 years. The machines
might be different today, but the sense
of adventure remains the same.
We all know that cycling is fantastic, but it feels like 2020 was the year when everyone
else discovered this. Lower traffic levels at the beginning of the Covid-19 lockdown
inspired people to dust off that old bike in the shed and embrace the freedom of cycling.
The coronavirus outbreak highlighted how much we value being able to get outdoors
and connect with nature. For us at Cycling UK, it’s shown the importance of having
a network of safe off-road routes to ride straight from your doorstep.
We’re continuing to campaign for wider off-road access for cycling – both for local
everyday rides, and for longer-distance adventures like the West Kernow Way.
Cycling is the perfect way to really discover a place, and immerse yourself in the
landscape, culture and history. As part of the EU-funded EXPERIENCE project,
Cycling UK is developing new cycle hubs and promoted routes across Cornwall, Kent
and Norfolk, enabling you to explore the unique character of each region in all seasons.
We’re also supporting hospitality businesses along the routes to attract visitors on
bikes and bounce back from the pandemic, by offering advice and equipment through
the Cycle Friendly Places accreditation so you can be sure of a warm welcome.
We’ve never been more aware of the simple joy and escape of discovering new
places by bike.
We hope you enjoy experiencing it for yourself on the West Kernow Way.
Sarah Mitchell
Chief Executive of Cycling UK
EXPERIENCE project
As one of 14 partners on the EXPERIENCE project, Cycling UK is working to deliver
sustainable new off-season tourism experiences and supporting businesses to attract
cyclists with the Cycle Friendly Places accreditation.
The €23.3 million project is co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF,
€16 million) through the Interreg VA France (Channel) England Programme 2014–2020,
and aims to boost visitor numbers in six pilot regions including Cornwall, Norfolk and Kent.
cyclinguk.org/experience
3
Cycling UK
4
Contents
Overview map...........................................................................
6
Introduction ..............................................................................
8
Part 1 – The Edge of the World ..................................... 22
Part 2 – Penwith Moors ..................................................... 32
Part 3 – The Loe ....................................................................... 46
Part 4 – Lizard Peninsula .................................................. 56
Part 5 – A Mining Moonscape ....................................... 74
Part 6 – Coast to Coast ....................................................... 84
Places and facilities ........................................................ 96
Suggested itineraries .................................................... 98
Image credits ...................................................................... 99
Afterword..................................................................................... 100
About the author..................................................................... 101
5
West Kernow Way
Cycling UK
West Kernow Way
Unlock the fascinating history and breathtaking beauty of the
ancient kingdom of Kernow on this 230km adventure ride
around the tip of Cornwall.
The West Kernow Way starts in Penzance
and links stunning coves, clifftop views,
charming villages, mysterious moors,
deserted back lanes and bewitching woods
into an utterly unique and compelling story
that stretches from the distant prehistoric
to recent tales of tragic heroism.
The figure-of-eight format heads out to
the most south westerly point of the UK
mainland at Land’s End, then loops back
down to the most southerly at Lizard Point.
From there, it rolls north right across the
Cornish peninsula to the historic mining
heartland of Redruth before heading south
again to finish at the iconic island of
St Michael’s Mount.
While the tourist hotspots and main roads
can be busy, the tracks and back roads
that we’ve created this adventure from
are often totally deserted, letting you
immerse yourself in the mystery and
8
wildness of this rugged and proudly
independent Celtic kingdom.
The trail’s mix of testing gradients and
varying surfaces make it perfect for gravel
bikes or mountain bikes. The looping
layout and plenty of suitable stopover
points make it ideal for bikepacking over
several days, or enjoying the three distinct
sections in different stages. However, you
do it, you’ll be guaranteed a warm Cornish
welcome and mouthwatering local food
from a land that the archaeology tells
us has been greeting visitors from the
furthest corners of the known world
since the Stone Age.
The West Kernow Way can also be
combined with the routes radiating
out from the Cycling UK EXPERIENCE
hubs at Penzance and Helston to make
the absolute most of your trip to the
toe end of England.
Introduction
To help you plan your Cornish adventure,
we’ve suggested two or three-night
itineraries at the back of the book.
You’ll find a cumulative mileage chart
to each village and point of interest too,
including the useful facilities available
at each one.
Format of this guide
We have split the route into different
sections based on the geography and
obvious overnight stop facilities. Each
chapter provides a feel for the terrain
to expect under your wheels, the history
and scenery that will surround you, and
background information for the many
highlights of the route.
In addition to the GPX file you can
download from the Cycling UK website,
the narrative includes tips on how to stay
on track to make navigation as easy and
enjoyable as possible. We’ll also point
out alternative route options, from bonus
singletrack diversions, archaeological or
panoramic viewpoint add-ons, and even
shortcuts across sandbanks, foot ferries
or historic mining trails. At the back of the
printed route guide, you’ll find detailed
maps showing the alternative options
and to aid navigation on some of the
more complicated off-road sections.
However you choose to ride the route,
we hope you enjoy riding it as much
as we have.
Download the GPX route file at
cyclinguk.org/westkernowway
9
Cycling UK
Terrain
The West Kernow Way uses a mixture of
quiet lanes, cycle paths and bridleways
that vary from smooth grass to loose
rock or narrow singletrack sheep trails
over moors. We’ve deliberately avoided
any extreme technical sections, though,
and we’d classify the route as a ‘blue’
difficulty rating using the off-road grading
system (‘moderate’, suitable for people
with some experience of off-road
cycling, with some loose surfaces,
ruts, roots, rocks and steep sections).
The rugged Cornish landscape inevitably
means there are lots of steep climbs and
descents along the way too, and we’d
recommend attaining a reasonable level
of fitness (or some electric assistance)
before starting if you want to enjoy it.
The climbs are generally short though, so
you can always push rather than pushing
the pace, and most of the steepest parts
are packed into the first half of the route.
The granite base geology of the Cornish
peninsula and predominantly rocky bed
of most of the trails means most of the
route isn’t massively affected by bad
weather. That said, some of the moorland
and heath sections of Penwith, the Lizard
and south of Redruth will become sticky
and slower when wet, and there are a
few short sections that were very wet
and boggy even in June. However, you’re
generally never far from an easier-rolling
road alternative, particularly in the
second half of the route where there’s
a whole maze of lanes to escape onto.
10
Introduction
Bike and kit
The amount of diverse off-road riding and
the route’s challenging nature means
you’ll need a suitable bike. A gravel bike
with 35mm or wider all-terrain tyres and
wide ratio gears is the optimum choice
in dry weather. As long as you’re prepared
to be patient on the road sections, a
lightweight hardtail mountain bike would
be ideal for the off-road sections too,
especially if the weather is likely to be
against you.
An e-bike can be a blessing on Cornwall’s
hills, but bear in mind the weight –
there are a few rough stretches where
you could end up pushing or carrying the
bike. There is a wealth of stopping
opportunities to recharge, as long as
you plan ahead so you don’t run out of
battery on a 25% climb.
Whatever bike you take, make sure it’s
in good working order. Before turning up
to Penzance, try out anything new to make
sure it works. This applies to anything,
whether it’s cycling shorts, tyres or a
completely fresh bike.
Which kit to take obviously depends on
your accommodation strategy, the season
and how seasoned an adventurer you
are. Be aware that while Cornwall enjoys
relatively mild temperatures compared
to the rest of the UK, it’s also wetter than
average. The fact it sticks out into the
Atlantic and the coast is never far away
means that brutal weather can blow in
with very little warning any time of the year.
An extra warm layer and a weatherproof
shell should be considered a minimum
wardrobe requirement even in summer.
In terms of carrying kit, some of the
more rattling, rougher or narrow trails will
definitely suit strap-on bikepacking bags or
a backpack better than traditional bolt-on
racks and panniers. Whatever luggage you
choose, make sure you trial your setup on
appropriate terrain beforehand as there’s
nothing more frustrating than having to
stop repeatedly to fix bits back on or trudge
back up descents to find lost water bottles.
While there are several bike shops
en route, it makes sense to brush up
your basic maintenance skills and take
essential spares – tubes, pump, repair
kit, multitool including chain splitter
and a small bottle of chain lube –
if only to avoid irritating interruptions.
11
Cycling UK
Navigation
The West Kernow Way isn’t signposted
and for most of the length there are no
waymarked routes to use as a guide either.
Even when you get to the mining trails
around Redruth, there are often several
to choose between at different junctions.
That makes loading the route GPX onto
a GPS computer with a decent resolution
screen and background mapping a big help
for staying on track. You can’t always rely
on electronics though, so a paper map
is always a good idea. There are also
annotated maps provided at the back of
this guide to cover you for the more
complicated bits.
Even then, it’s a complicated landscape
with a lot of 3D variation, so a small
mistake can easily cost you a lot of effort.
It’d be a shame to miss out on any of the
interesting features and sights on the
route, so we suggest you keep a very
keen eye on your mapping rather than
rushing along head down.
We’ve also included navigation cues in the
guidebook as well as the background info
to make the most of the route’s stories,
so reading the relevant sections before
you ride the route each day will really help
make the most of it. The route in the guide
also includes some added extras and
bonus suggestions that the downloaded
GPX won’t.
Safety
Our expert route planners have done
an amazing job in creating a sense of
adventure around the most wild and
wonderful parts of Cornwall without undue
risk. They’ve also kept exposure to busy
traffic to an absolute minimum, making
the most of barely used back roads and
ancient byways for the vast majority of
the route. We test-rode it and made a few
changes before writing the guide, so you’ll
find any potential hazards in each section
flagged at the start of the relevant chapters.
Mobile phone coverage is good along most
of the journey and you’re never more than
a few kilometres from a road or village,
even though it may seem like you’ve
time-travelled into different millennia
at some points.
Riding on or off road always has a level
of risk though, and breaking your bike or
yourself is never a good idea. Remember
to always ride within your own limits and
that of your equipment, and if in doubt
get off and walk – whether that’s at one
of the few busy road crossings or on
a challenging trail section.
12
Introduction
The narrow lanes with their high banks
and limited sightlines can sometimes be
a squeeze, so go carefully around corners
or down twisting descents and always keep
an eye and ear out for approaching traffic.
Flashing daytime lights can be a good
idea on the hedgerow-shaded lanes.
Riding in a group is always safer as well
as more sociable, but if you’re going
solo we’d suggest using a ‘beacon’ style
tracker on your phone or GPS so someone
else can keep a virtual eye on you.
Finally but very importantly, you are
responsible for the safety of any other
trail users as well as wildlife, as this route
crosses several nature reserves and Sites
of Special Scientific Interest. Always slow
down or stop and say hello, whether that’s
to walkers, horse riders or farmers in their
yards. Pick up litter, reduce your riding
impact as much as possible (go through
puddles not around them) and follow the
Countryside Code. After all, while many
of the rights of way on this route are
currently very rarely used, this trail is likely
to cause an increase. Let’s make sure
that has a positive impact rather than
being seen a problem, to make it easier
to develop further routes in the future.
Show respect for all other users
Practice low-impact cycling
Top tips for a great ride
• Ride responsibly: Show respect for all other users, and take
care of the environment.
• Leave no trace: Practice low-impact cycling to protect trails
and avoid wet and muddy trails. Keep to the line of existing
marked paths, avoid skidding and take your litter home.
• Control your bike: Stay focused, check your speed, and think
about other people.
• Avoid disturbing animals: Farm, pet and wild animals are
startled by sudden noise, be considerate. Leave gates as
you find them.
• Plan ahead: Know your bike, your equipment, your ability
and the area, and be prepared for the weather conditions.
• Always give way: Let people know you are there. Pass wide and
slow, particularly with horse riders and approach with caution
on blind corners and descents. Remember – Be Nice, Say Hi!
13
Cycling UK
When is a footpath not a footpath?
Unrecorded rights of way
Across England and Wales, there are more
than 49,000 miles of historic paths which
have been used for centuries but aren’t
officially recorded on the map. If they
aren’t added by the cut-off date of 2026,
they could be lost forever.
There are also many bridleways and
byways which were incorrectly recorded
as footpaths when rights of way maps
were being compiled in the 1950s.
This means that although it might be
marked as a footpath, there still exists
a right to ride a bike or horse on them –
but this right will be extinguished in 2026
if the map isn’t corrected.
Very often, these lost routes can be
found at parish boundaries, where the
bridleway magically turns into a footpath,
or the bridleway ends on a footpath or
track for no obvious reason on what
would otherwise be a through-route.
In Cornwall, there are loads of these,
leading to missing links in the network.
14
In several places, the West Kernow Way
uses these historic routes to link together
the best off-road options. For each of them,
we have looked at the evidence for the
existence of a right of way, and the physical
suitability of the route, and assess that
there is a strong case for the existence
of an unrecorded missing link. Some of
these are currently recorded as footpaths
(crucially, section 56 of the Wildlife and
Countryside Act confirms that recorded
status is without prejudice to the existence
of higher rights), and some aren’t on the
rights of way map at all.
In every case, there is either an existing
application for a Definitive Map Modification
Order, or Cycling UK has submitted one
as part of our route development work.
The system for processing these
applications is complex and unwieldy,
and councils have an average backlog of
around fifteen years to go through them
all. (As long as they are submitted before
2026, they will still be considered.)
Introduction
Access
Opening up new sections of routes is
a big part of what we do at Cycling UK,
and there are several sections of this
route where we’re still negotiating
access based on historic rights of way
or wrongful classification in the past.
In other places such as the Lizard, we’ve
worked with the National Trust and other
land managers to find the best way for
you to enjoy an area while reducing the
ecological impact. That means in a few
places you might find the route advising
you to ride what’s marked on a map
or by signposts as a footpath, or asking
you to push through a section on
foot rather than ride it. Again, how we
behave as riders will make a big impact
on future access issues, so be the
best ambassador you can at all times.
Given the priority that the Government
and others have given to improved
opportunities for accessing the outdoors,
and the problems of increased motor
traffic on the roads, it’s clear the current
system isn’t working when it can take
decades to upgrade one right of way.
That’s why we have included these
sections on the route on the basis
of the evidenced historic rights.
Campaigning to increase off-road access
for cycling is only possible because of
our 70,000 members. If you want to
support wider access to the outdoors
and the creation of more long-distance
trails, join Cycling UK today and help more
people discover the joy of off-road riding.
Find out more at cyclinguk.org/join
Find out more at cyclinguk.org/2026
15
Cycling UK
The world of West Kernow
Kernow – the Cornish name for Cornwall –
has had a far bigger significance than its
size would suggest for as far back as the
archaeological record extends. For several
phases of its history, Kernow has also been
at the cutting edge of global technology.
Archaeological records say that its relatively
warm climate, fertile land and rich seas
on all sides made it one of the first areas
to be settled by humans in the UK in the
middle Stone Age (Mesolithic). There are
cultural matches with other communities
right up and down the Atlantic coast from
Portugal to the Scottish islands, stretching
from the Mesolithic period through to
post-Roman times too. It was Cornwall’s
crucial part in ending the Stone Age that
really brought it to prominence, though.
Rich deposits of the tin needed to turn
decorative copper into bronze of a high
enough quality for sharp tools, armour and
weapons put it on the map for traders as
far away as the eastern Mediterranean. It’s
mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus
around 500BC, and one legend even says
that a young Jesus may have come here
with metal trader Joseph of Arimathea.
Like Ireland and Wales, it also became
a key area in the growth of Christianity
– hence all the saint’s names for places
on the route. The Saxon times didn’t
go so well, though, with Cornwall cut off
from land access to Wales and many of
the Celtic inhabitants fleeing to Brittany
to the south. Its remoteness meant it
was a pretty wild place with a reputation
for piracy and highwaymen, as well as
‘wreckers’ who lured passing boats onto
the rocks with false lighthouse beacons.
It wasn’t until the development of the first
steam engines to pump water out of the
mines that Cornwall hit the big time again.
Not only did its minerals – such as China
Clay used in porcelain – become very
important, but the knowledge of its
16
Introduction
Unlock the fascinating history and
breathtaking beauty of the ancient kingdom
of Kernow on this 230km adventure ride
around the tip of Cornwall.
engineers and miners was sought after
all over the world. That’s why you get
entries from South America, Russia and
even Australia in the annual Cornish
pasty championships.
The railways brought it in reach of
holidaymakers in the Victorian period,
and its beaches and coves have been
super popular ever since. Being at the
nearest point to America made it the
ideal spot for communication experiments
like the pioneering telegraph work at
Porthcurno and Marconi’s radio towers
at Poldhu. Even today, 22 of the world’s
fastest undersea fibre optic cables
come ashore in Cornwall.
The collapse of the mining and fishing
industries hit Cornwall hard but the great
news is that it’s definitely on the up again,
with visitors appreciating its beautiful
landscape, mild climate and welcoming
people. More residents are proud to
register in Census checks, the Cornish
language is being spoken by more people
and recent events like the G7 summit
have also boosted Cornwall’s visibility.
We’re delighted to be showing what a
fantastic area it is for cycling too and,
although it can take a while to get there
from some parts of the country, we’re sure
you’ll realise what a unique and magical
place it is as soon as you start riding.
17
Cycling UK
Mên-an-Tol
Bal
Fogou
A quick Cornish lesson
The Cornish language (or Kernewek) is a Celtic tongue related to Welsh and Breton.
It faded out during the 18th century, but experienced a revival during the 20th century
and more people are now learning it. Our brief dictionary below provides a bit of
insight into the place names and labels you’ll see on the map.
Als, Alt – a cliff
Bal – a mine
Bos – a homestead
Bron – a hill
Carn – a heap of rocks, Cairn
Chy – a house
Cos – a wood
Dinas – a hill fort
Du – black
Enys – an island
Fogou – a cave
Goon – moorland
Greeb – a crest
Hal – a moor
Kelly – a grove or copse
Lan – a monastic enclosure
18
Maen or Mên – a stone
Mên-an-Tol – a stone with a hole
Mên scryfa – an inscribed stone
Nans – a valley
Pen – a headland
Pol – a pool
Porth – a cove
Praze – a meadow or common
Ruan – a river
Towan – a sandhill
Tol – a hole
Tre – a house or dwelling place
Treryn – a dwelling on a promontory
Wheal – a mine or shaft
Zawn – a chasm
Introduction
The Cornish pasty
The signature self-contained meal of
Kernow, the Cornish pasty, is actually
a protected species that can only be
chopped, wrapped, glazed and then baked
into delicious life between Land’s End and
the River Tamar. According to the Cornish
pasty association regulatory body it can
only be made with chopped or minced
beef, potato, swede or turnip, onions
and seasoning. The pastry case must be
side (not top) crimped and then glazed
with egg or milk to make it deep mine,
field or seaworthy too.
That said, you’ll get all sorts of fillings and flavours – and even nationalities – turning
up at the World Pasty Championships held at the Eden Project in Bodelva every year
on St Piran’s day. You’ll also find these super tasty, nutritious, semi-circular sources of
national pride being sold in most places that Cornish miners and engineers emigrated to.
The cream tea
The cream tea isn’t as exclusive
to Cornwall as the pasty – it’s also
associated with the neighbouring county
of Devon – but it’s definitely our energy
food of choice when we’re in the South
West. While the default delivery device
is now a freshly baked scone, the first
records suggest a ‘Cornish Split’ sweet
bread being used instead and you’ll still
find some places serving that today. Either
way it’s served with clotted (not whipped)
cream and strawberry jam, but make sure
you layer them Cornish style (jam then
cream) when you’re down Kernow way.
19
Parts 1 and 2 overview
The Edge of the World
PART ONE
Cycling UK
Part 1 – The Edge of the World
100m
Penzance
to Land’s End
Distance: 28km
50m
0m
0km
Ascent: 501m
10km
20km
200m
100m
0m
Highlights
0km
Be aware
• Incredible coastal scenery
• Beautiful coves and harbours
• Mainland UK’s south-western point
at Land’s End
• Evocative prehistoric and maritime history
• Deserted back roads
• Spicy optional off-road sections
• There are some steep climbs,
150m
including the first one out of
100m
Mousehole which is a stinker
Navigation
The route follows National Cycle Network
Route 3 as far as the Merry Maidens stone
circle and then there’s no signposting and
you’re navigating on your own. Dodging
traffic while linking together coves, harbours
and high inland stone circles on a mix of
road and off-road tracks is inevitably a
complicated process. That means lots of
twists and turns, often in quick succession,
and with no waymarked trails to follow it’s
up to you to stay alert and stay on track.
24
28km
20km
41km
20km
50m
• There are
0m some steep, twisty
descents
0kmtoo, starting
10kmat Lamorna 23km
• The seafront road from Penzance
100m
to Wherrytown can be busy
50m
• Villages
and coves will be popular
in summer
and drivers may be
0m
0km
20km
40km
60km
more preoccupied
with finding
parking spaces and ice cream
than 200m
watching for cyclists
150m when crossing the
• Be patient
100m
slow-moving
but busy A30
50m
above 0m
Sennen Cove
0km
10km
20km
30km
39km
200m
100m
0m
0km
20km
44km
Part 1: The Edge of the World
Visit Porthcurno with its
pretty sandy cove, pubs
and cafés, and the unique
open air theatre looking
out over the sea...
Porthcurno
Area introduction and route summary
The first part of the West Kernow Way
is a condensed version of what you can
expect for a lot of the ride. Once you’ve
rolled out of Penzance and past Newlyn
to Mousehole, which are beautiful, but
a lot busier than the rest of the route,
you hit the typical back lanes of Cornwall.
Bordered by tall hedge walls bursting with
flowers and wildlife and dipping in and out
of verdant wooded valleys cut by crystal
streams, these wonderful lanes will be
the signature screen saver for most of
your journey.
They link a string of scenic and historical
highlights too. From the busy working
harbour of Newlyn, you wiggle through the
picture perfect and wonderfully named
harbour village of Mousehole (pronounced
‘mowzul’). From here, your legs get their
first flame-grilling, and then your brakes
get cooked on the tight, twisting, narrow
descent into Lamorna, where you can
divert to the beautiful cove at the end of
the wooded valley. Then it’s a winch out
again either off-road or on and past the
Merry Maidens standing stone ring and
chambered cairn.
The Penwith Peninsula then throws in
a few thatched cottages, ancient pubs
and farms, another cove, and telegraph
museum detour at Porthcurno, which you
can access via a wicked coast path
with incredible views, if you’re brave. So,
apart from a ruined tin mine (you’ll have
to wait until part 2 for those) it pretty much
ticks every box you could hope to see in
Cornwall within the first fifteen kilometres.
You then duck inland along more of those
amazing lanes and across the main road
before popping out above the surfers’
paradise of Sennen Cove. From here, it’s
a short cycle path section overlooking the
stunningly rugged granite cliffs of Gamper,
past prehistoric standing stones and
promontory forts to Land’s End itself.
25
Cycling UK
Mousehole
Penzance
Penzance to Mousehole
You start your West Kernow Way adventure
by the harbour in Penzance, which is
right next to the railway and bus stations.
Rolling away from the big red buoy, a short
section of cycle path (this section of the
route is also National Cycle Route 3)
takes you to the coast road over the swing
bridge that separates the inner and outer
harbours. Then it’s past a selection of
pirate themed pubs and takeaways behind
the Art Deco splendour of the Jubilee open
air swimming pool. It’s probably too early
to take a bath yet, so roll along the beach
front and peel off left onto the cycle path
to Newlyn at the earliest opportunity.
26
The Penzance area was visited by
Mesolithic hunters and settled by Neolithic
people. Tax and fishing records show
that Penzance and Newlyn were far less
important and prosperous than Mousehole
and Marazion at either side until the
medieval period. Being chartered for a
Royal Market in 1404 put Penzance on the
map though, and it continued to grow even
after being burned down by a raiding party
from the Spanish Armada fleet in 1588.
The arrival of the railway cemented its
importance both in terms of tourism and
express trains taking fresh fish and the
flowers that bloom early in the kind climate
back up to London. The eclectic mix of
buildings, museums, subtropical gardens,
and other attractions make it equally fun
to explore today.
Part 1: The Edge of the World
The Penlee lifeboat disaster
Jubilee Pool
Opened in 1935, this Grade II listed
art deco building hosts the largest
saltwater lido in the UK (and probably
the only triangular-shaped one). If
you don’t fancy the chilly seawater
temperatures, you’re in luck as a new
geothermal pool was added in 2020.
Thanks to a 410m-deep geothermal
well which heats the water to a toasty
30-35°C, the pool now opens all year
round. You can even make an evening
of it with a ‘geo and dine’ experience
if you’re feeling fancy.
There’s a bit of twist and turn around
old warehouse buildings and cottages
of Newlyn and then it’s onto the narrower,
quieter coast road, climbing gradually
to reveal panoramic views over the
hard-working, fish-scented harbour across
Mount’s Bay to the Lizard Peninsula.
If you’re on a very leisurely schedule you
could even stop at the historic Red Lion
Inn and take in the view over a pint or
two. A left split drops you down from the
road on a shared path (marked National
Cycle Network route 3) before coming
back up to the RNLI memorial at the old
Penlee lifeboat station.
From here you can stay on the broad path
alongside the road before dropping into
the tight and twisting streets, whitewashed
cottages and perfect horseshoe harbour
of Mousehole.
The old Penlee lifeboat station high above
the bay near Mousehole has a monument
to the bravery of the crew of eight local
men who launched into a force 12,
hurricane storm (170 kph winds and 18m
waves) to try and rescue the crew of the
freighter Union Star when the engines
failed on its first ever voyage. Despite
having already miraculously rescued half
the crew from metres off the rocks of
Boscawen Cove, the lifeboat cox Trevelyan
Richards went in again to try and save
the rest, but the lifeboat and crew of
the Union Star were all lost to the sea.
Mousehole
Named after the tiny entrance to the
natural harbour behind St Clement’s Isle,
the beautiful fishing and trading village
of Mousehole was actually the most
prosperous in west Cornwall until medieval
times. Poet Dylan Thomas stayed here
before and after his honeymoon, calling
it the “loveliest village in England”, and
the couple’s wedding rings were made
of Cornish silver. Its boats fished and
traded as far away as the Mediterranean
and Scotland, and it was burnt down
by a Spanish Armada raiding party
after all but one of the local militiamen
(Squire Jenkyn Keigwin, who the local
pub was named after) fled after being
outnumbered four to one.
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Cycling UK
Mousehole to Porthcurno
The climb out of Mousehole keeps
grinding upwards for much longer than is
polite, but swapping the busy village for
tiny, high-banked back lanes is a fantastic
reward for your efforts. It’s an introduction
to just how surprisingly quiet and darkly
fertile the inland parts of Cornwall are,
and the prehistoric menhirs and hut
circles just to the north underline how
Kernow has attracted people sincethe
very first settlers millennia ago. Don’t
get too lost in the landscape though,
as the super-narrow corkscrew,
gravel-centred descent into Lamorna
needs your full attention, especially if you
meet something coming the other way.
At Lamorna you can turn left to the
cobbled cove with its old pub, café and
long-established artists’ community,
or follow the route up the densely-wooded
stream valley, filled with flowers and
birdsong, taking a left turn up the rocky
byway towards The Pipers standing stones.
The whole crown of this part of the coast
was clearly important to the prehistoric and
early medieval inhabitants of Kernow with
the Merry Maidens stone circle, chambered
cairns (one right by the roadside), tumuli, and
early crosses sitting cheek by jowl in the
small fields that still follow ancient layouts.
The next few kilometres take you down
and up through three rollercoaster valleys
with the final drop into Penberth Valley being
a particularly steep one, with a switchback
start for good measure. Be wary that the
thick, lush vegetation that gives these
valleys an almost rainforest feel can leave
roads damp even in a dry summer, so
Lamorna
Logan Rock detour
Turning up past the award winning, 16th century Logan Rock Inn
(named after an 80-ton rocking boulder) takes you through Treen and
onto a gravel track past a campsite to the South West Coast Path.
The bridleway is a bit narrow, so be prepared to stop and shuffle over
if you see people coming the other way. The sweeping views from
the promontory fort of Treryn Dinas and Logan Rock to the east and
Porthcurno to the west are fantastic. The descent down to Porthcurno
cove is not only steep and very narrow singletrack but has boulder
steps that would make most experienced mountain bikers blink,
which is why we’ve taken it off the official recommended route.
28
Part 1: The Edge of the World
temper your speed accordingly. As you wind
up the far side to Treen, past tall flowerloaded walls and banks, you’ll come to the
old Logan Rock Inn, where there’s potential
to take a beautiful but very technical detour.
the sea. There’s also a museum explaining
how this tiny Cornish fishing village became
the centre of global communication and
technology quite by accident.
Stay on the road and you can roll down the
out and back road into Porthcurno to visit
its pretty sandy cove, pubs and cafés, and
the unique open air theatre looking out over
Porthcurno Museum of
Global Communications
Porthcurno’s story as a centre for global
communication started in 1870 when the
Falmouth, Gibraltar, and Malta Telegraph
Company decided to not lay its telegraph
cable all the way round The Lizard to
Falmouth but brought it ashore at this quiet
fishing cove. Telegraph communication meant
that messages to and from India now took
less than ten minutes instead of six weeks
or more, which revolutionised communication
throughout the British Empire and cables
were soon laid across the Atlantic as well.
Sensing the danger presented by radio, the
company also erected a mast to monitor
and intercept Marconi’s transmissions from
Poldhu (read more about Marconi in Part 3),
and even interrupted broadcasts with rude
messages to prove they weren’t secure.
That meant cable communication stayed
the crucial link for military messaging
and, when WWII started, operations were
moved into tunnels cut into the cliffs and
the whole cove was sealed off for security.
Remarkably, telegraphs were still being
sent from Porthcurno until 1970. The site
remained as a training college until being
revived by the introduction of fibre optic
cable technology and the area became a
hub for global chat and internet traffic again.
This whole story and much more is told
at the fascinating PK Porthcurno Museum
of Global Communications, housed in the
original building on the side of the valley.
Minack Theatre
This spectacular open air amphitheatre
carved into the granite cliffs is well worth
taking a peek at. The theatre’s existence
is due to one extraordinary woman,
Rowena Cade. She moved to Cornwall
in the 1920s and built a home on top of
the cliff. In 1929, a local company wanted
to stage a production of The Tempest, and
she offered them the use of her clifftop
garden. To create a stage and seating area,
she and a few friends cut rocks by hand and
manhandled them into position to create
the first curved terraces. Rowena continued
working on the theatre for the rest of her life,
carrying sand up in sacks from the beach
to make concrete and etching on complex
patterns and the names of plays performed.
If you manage to time it to have an
evening free in Porthcurno, watching a play
surrounded by stunning coastal vistas with
the waves crashing down below is always
a memorable experience.
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Cycling UK
Porthcurno to Land’s End
From Porthcurno you head north inland to
Trethewey and then drop steeply down into
the lovely, wooded valley at Bottoms, where
you need to be ready for the sharp left turn
at the, erm, bottom. A short road climb
takes you to the bridleway signposted to
Trengothal Farm and past a particularly
lovely example of Cornish thatched roofing
on an L-shaped medieval house. Carry
on past the farm and the satellite dishes
of another communications station along
narrow winding back lanes to the main road
at Sennen. Look out for the cycle path
split to the left which takes you straight
across to the cycle path on the far side.
The cycle path follows the road down to
Sennen Cove, but the West Kernow Way
crosses the road and turns left to stay
high on a back lane which leads past an
assortment of both very classy and crazy
clifftop homes, before re-joining the cycle
path to Land’s End. This gravel track is
broad with fences on either side, but the
turns are quite sharp and it can be busy
with pedestrians, so take it steady. That’ll
also let you appreciate the amazing views
out towards the Isles of Scilly as well as
the barrows, cairns, and promontory fort
of Maen Castle, which are the English
mainland’s most westerly archaeology.
Doubling back at the far end you’ll join
the two lane, one way road for the final
few hundred meters to Land’s End itself.
Then it’s time for a snack, a clichéd picture
next to the famous signpost, and trying
to tell as many people as possible that
you only left John o’ Groats five days ago.
Sennen Cove
Sennen Cove is famous with surfers and climbers
but the relaxed atmosphere – particularly compared
to the commercial tourist feel of Land’s End –
broad sands, and surfers’ café make it well worth
the climb in and out on your bike too.
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Part 1: The Edge of the World
Land's End
While the promontory fort of Maen Castle
and other archaeology prove it’s long been
an important area, the most westerly point
of the English mainland at Carn Kez was
actually rarely visited because of the lack
of decent roads. A small house hosted the
First and Last Inn and stabled horses in
the Victorian period, and that grew into the
present hotel. This suffered damage from
both a lost Luftwaffe bomber in WWII and
American troops billeted there. The current
‘theme park’ includes pay as you go
attractions and several different refreshment
options overlooking this incredible rocky
Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty jutting
out into the Atlantic. On a clear day you’ll
be able to see the Isles of Scilly 45km
to the south-east, which together with the
Longships rocks and Seven Stones Reef
are commonly regarded as the submerged
remains of Lyonesse, a mythical land
in Arthurian legend.
It's a bird's life
With habitats ranging from high Atlantic cliffs
to marshland, sleepy rolling countryside
and inland lakes, it comes as no surprise
that the West Kernow Way is excellent for
birdwatching. A pair of lightweight binoculars
or a monocular will come in handy here.
The most westerly point of the mainland
UK, Land’s End is a key sighting point for
migratory birds, especially in the autumn
and winter. Through the rest of the year,
keep an eye out here on the cliffs for
gull-like fulmars and mighty peregrine falcons.
When you reach the Lizard Peninsula, you
might be lucky enough to spot the Cornish
chough, one of the UK’s rarest breeding birds
which is now thriving here. A combination
of hunting and habitat loss was deemed
responsible for their decline, as sheep, cattle
and ponies that would once graze this land
had been moved further inland. Key to their
return in 2001 was the reintroduction of
traditional grazing to the area, expanding
Cornish Chough
the chough’s preferred cropped grass
and heathland habitat. Unlike other crow
species, look for the brightly coloured red
beak and legs, and their acrobatic flight.
At Lizard Point you can also see migratory
birds year-round, from puffins in summer
to great northern divers, guillemots,
and razorbills in winter.
As you take the cycle path around Stithians
Reservoir, look out for waterfowl including
beautiful teal and widgeon in larger
numbers, as well as less commonly spotted
tufted duck, pochard and goldeneye.
31
Penwith Moors
PART TWO
Cycling UK
Part 2 – Penwith Moors
Moorland singletrack
Land’s End
to St Erth
100m
50m
Distance:
41km
0m
Ascent:
669m
0km
10km
20km
28km
200m
100m
0m
0km
20km
41km
20km
150m
Highlights
100m
• Incredible
coastal views
50m
• Iconic,
0m evocative tin mines
0km
10km sites
23km
• Mystical
prehistoric
• Wild moorland
100m
• Tiny, deserted, back roads
50m gravel
• Fast
• Technical
moorland singletrack
0m
0km
Be200m
aware
20km
40km
60km
150mshort sections of A30 and B3306
• The
100m
are
busier than we’d like to take you
50m
along,
0m but there are no alternatives
for 0km
this section
10km
20km
30km
39km
• The descent into Cape Cornwall is
steep with loose rock and tight
200m
corners
at the bottom
100msingletrack around Mulfra is
• The
0m
narrow
and rutted with random rocks
44km
for 0km
added peril, 20km
so either polish
your
MTB skills or get off and push
• The singletrack descent into Amalveor
is fun but again, loose rock adds
potential for punctures or crashes
• The A30 at Canon’s Town is busy
but made easier to cross with a
bike path and centre turning lane
34
Navigation
The navigation is simpler than Part 1
at first as you retrace the route to Sennen,
then follow the road and bridleway
along the coast to Cape Cornwall. From
Nancherrow to the Levant Mine you’re
following obvious mining tracks and then
you join the Tinners Way trail across
Woon Gumpus Common. The trails
become narrow singletrack near Mulfra
though, which can be tricky to follow if
the vegetation is high. The tracks broaden
out and then you’re back on signposted
roads from Nancledra, and the bridleway
to Canon’s Town is easy to follow once
you’ve spotted the entrance. As always
though, keep a close eye on your map
or GPS as there is still reasonable
potential to get lost.
Part 2: Penwith Moors
Area introduction and route summary
Part 2 of the West Kernow Way takes you
on a dramatic and truly transformative
journey to complete the first loop of the
route. Heading north from the iconic
Atlantic-battered rocks of Land’s End, you
retrace your wheel tracks around Sennen
Cove and then it’s head down on the road
for an unavoidable section before dropping
down into the beautiful Cot Valley. You’ll
climb out with views over Progo Cove
before the scree-scattering plummet to
Cape Cornwall. Then it’s inland through
the edge of St Just, before heading to the
coast again with jaw-dropping views over
Kenidjack Castle and following the old
mining trails past a whole string of engine
houses clinging to the savage cliffs.
You’ll turn inland again to wind the clock
back millennia past barrows, hill forts and
mysterious quoit structures across the
remote moors with a potential bonus
diversion to the soul stirring site of Mulfra
and the amazing Iron Age settlement of
Chysauster. A rocky descent fires you out
The climb from Cape Cornwall
onto twisting back roads that you’ll surf
all the way to Nancledra. Then you can
follow the tight ridgeline singletrack to
Canon’s Town, or climb higher on the road
to visit the amazing hill fort of Trencrom
Hill with its coast to coast views.
Then it’s across the A30 to St Erth and the
crossover point of this figure-of-eight route.
The differences in landscape and surface
under your wheels are as dramatic as
they sound too. Road, steep singletrack
climbs and descents, broad loose rock
mining tracks, fast rolling gravel gifts, and
even some sections of tricky moorland
singletrack are all on the menu. We’ve
deliberately kept this part the route as
remote and wild as possible to really bring
out the unique character of the moors
and coast here. However, if you don’t fancy
being totally self-sufficient for this section
you can easily divert into the centre
of St Just, Boscaswell, St Erth or even
St Ives if you need resupply stops.
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Cycling UK
Land’s End to St Just
From Land’s End, follow the bike path
back past Sennen Cove, being sure to
project the steely-eyed determination
of a long-distance legend heading for
John o’ Groats. You then join the main
road for a short section before peeling
off onto the B road to St Just under the
ancient gaze of the hill forts, hut circles
and cairns of Carn Brea, and Bartine Castle.
When the road turns sharply right downhill
after the grandly named Land’s End Airport
– the departures board only features the
Scilly Isles – carry straight on into the Cot
Valley on a typically narrow Cornish back
lane past St Just Youth Hostel towards
the National Trust-owned Progo Cove.
One you’ve pushed onto the bridleway you
climb steadily on a grassy, stony track up
to a chambered cairn and incredible views:
south to Sennen, west over the ship-eating
Brisons rocks and north to Cape Cornwall
itself, with its tall mine chimney sat on top
like a spire. The descent to Priest’s Cove
is wide and mostly straight but it’s also
made of chunky, loose rocks and finishes
with a couple of tight turns, so treat it with
plenty of respect. An optional couple of
hundred meters diversion to Cape Cornwall
lookout station gives you an early view
of Kenidjack Castle, then it’s a steep but
thankfully very short road climb before
a level cruise to the edge of St Just.
Lost Way section at Land's End Youth Hostel
Here, a short stretch of footpath separates the road leading
from the airport and the coast. Historic evidence shows that
this route was almost certainly a vehicular highway, and we
have submitted an access claim on that basis, but we’re
currently advising you to dismount and push along here
just to avoid any conflict with nearby residents.
36
Part 2: Penwith Moors
Mining in Cornwall
While Cornwall only accounts for 0.02% of
the land surface of the earth, you can find
over 90% of the known types of minerals
here, including copper, iron ore, gold, China
Clay and – most importantly – tin. This soft,
silver, singing metal (it can squeal if you bend
an ingot or hit a seam underground) is the
vital 10% that turns decorative copper into
sharp tool, armour, and weapon quality bronze,
and it’s only found in a few areas in Europe.
The rich tin deposits in the Cornish
peninsula put it on the map for traders
as far away as the eastern Mediterranean
and Greece. There’s clear archaeological
evidence of extensive foreign trade and it’s
mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus
around 500 BC. One legend says that a
young Jesus may have even come here
with metal trader Joseph of Arimathea.
Trade gave the area great importance and
helps explain the high number of forts,
settlements and other remains from the
prehistoric period. Its significance continued
into the Iron Age, and Ding Dong mine near
Zennor was working during the Roman period.
The importance of tin declined as iron and
steel were developed, and it wasn’t until the
development of the first steam engines to
pump water out of the mines that Cornwall
really hit the big time again. Not only were
its minerals – including China Clay used in
porcelain – exported all over the world, but
the knowledge of its engineers and miners
was prized anywhere shafts and pits were
being sunk into the ground. The boom
time for Cornwall continued until the end
of the 19th century until prices declined
and mines rapidly closed, creating a deep
local depression only partly offset by the
increase in tourism enabled by railways.
Recent increases in prices and the
discovery of battery quality lithium mean
that Cornwall’s mining industry is now
potentially re-awakening once again.
37
Cycling UK
Tin mines
St Just to Trewellard
From St Just it’s back to the rugged Atlantic
coast overlooking the iconic Kenidjack
Castle, and then you follow the tracks
of the tin miners north, past the ruins
of the engine houses and spoil tips of
Wheal Edward Zawn, Zawn a Bal and
other unnamed mining sites.
Now totally deserted and stripped bare
by the often violent coastal weather, it’s
hard to imagine that this stark landscape
was once thronged with miners and
horse-drawn mine carts, and seething with
steam and smoke of the heaving pump
engines. The shafts from these pits didn’t
just dig hundreds of metres vertically
into the earth but would also regularly
extend several kilometres out under the
38
seabed following the precious lodes.
Cornwall was recognized as the ‘Silicon
Valley’ of the whole world in terms of
industrial mining innovation. The more
intact National Trust-owned mining
complex of Levant Zawn, with its preserved
beam engine, brings that into clearer
focus and the area is now part of
the Cornwall and West Devon Mining
Landscape UNESCO World Heritage Site.
If you don’t fancy being totally
self-sufficient you can easily
divert into the centre of St Just,
Boscaswell, St Erth or even St Ives
if you need resupply stops.
Part 2: Penwith Moors
Levant Engine House
Perched on the rugged coastline, this mine
building has been restored with a working
1840s steam-powered beam engine. You
can book a tour in advance to see the
fascinating mine workings and discover
the stories of innovation and tragedy
that unfolded here.
St Just
Find out more at nationaltrust.org.uk/
levant-mine-and-beam-engine
This small town was the hub for West
Cornish mining but is centred around
the Plain-an-Gwarry, a banked circular
‘theatre’ used for religious plays and
festivals in medieval times, but probably
prehistoric in origin. The 14th century
church includes early medieval wall
paintings and a carved Greek monogram
as well as the Selus Stone pillar which
has a Roman inscription on it.
If your stomach is growling, you’ll be glad
to know that St Just has several shops
including Warren’s bakery which claims to
be the “1st pasty shop in the world” and
Moomaids, an artisan ice cream shop
using milk from the family farm near Zennor
and named after a local mermaid legend.
Trewellard to Nancledra
Once you’ve exhausted this fascinating
historical lode, it’s time to stoke up your
own steam engine for the steady climb
up through the small village of Trewellard
to Woon Gumpus Common.
Not only is Woon Gumpus one of our
favourite names on the route (and there
are some splendid contenders to choose
from) but it’s an archaeologically rich
and remarkably remote-feeling part of
the peninsula. It also forms part of the
Tinners Way trail, which follows the tracks
that millennia’s worth of West Cornish
tin and other materials have been
transported along to the rest of the UK
and Europe. That makes it impossible not
to let your mind wander through the lives
and worlds of those who have gone before
you, though a landscape that still seems
wild and untamed despite traces of our
ancestors dating from 10,000 years ago.
39
Cycling UK
This part of the Tinners Way is fast going
at the start too, as you fly along rough
road and farm tracks south of Chûn Castle,
with its nature reserve and rebuilt quoit
stone monument. The perfect gravel bike
surface continues, with the wide-open
landscape rising and falling gently as
you pass the enigmatic holed stone
at Mên-an-Tol. The Nine Maidens stone
circle comes shortly after, and both are
well worth a short diversion on foot to
the south of our route.
The reputed oldest tin mine in Cornwall –
the Ding Dong mine – is less than a
kilometre off the route too if you don’t
mind a short walk over the moor. However,
you’ll need to be tight on your navigation
Lost way: The Tinners Way
A modern title for an ancient ridgeway
track, believed to date from prehistoric
times and following the watershed of the
uplands of West Penwith. The point where
we join the Tinners Way passes along a
well-surfaced old lane. The stone gateways
and surface make it obvious that this is a
well-established route, and more than wide
enough for horse and cart. Further along
from here the route is recorded in places
as footpath, but the evidence once again
points to higher status in the past.
As we continue along the route, we pass
several historic landmarks that would have
been important for navigation, and the
linear path this route takes, threading
between these features towards St Ives,
once again points towards the antiquity
and historic status of these ancient
trackways. This is further supported by
discoveries of everything from Bronze Age
gold hoards through to Roman coins.
Finally, our route crosses some narrower
moorland tracks, with a much wilder feel –
but still consistent with the historic mapping
that showed this route as branching off to
continue across the landscape before joining
up with the highway network further inland.
40
Mên-an-Tol
Tinners Way
Part 2: Penwith Moors
here, even if you don’t detour, as the
local ponies grazing the moor can leave
a confusing web of paths to follow.
A short dog-leg north around a prehistoric
hut circle settlement, and your skills as
well as your navigation need to be on
point as the bridleway becomes a narrow
tyre-width rut. Lots of small steps, peaty
puddles and larger rocks hidden in the
heather create a real challenge to anyone
who doesn’t just surrender and start
walking straight away. This is definitely
the wildest-feeling section of the whole
route too, with no signs of civilisation later
than the Bronze Age, and weather that
can often cloak in around you silently
and create an eerie atmosphere.
After a short section of road and gravel
track it’s back onto moorland singletrack
over the Lady and Amalveor Downs,
passing more tumuli on the tops of the
rolling hills before a rapid and rocky
descent to the road above Amalveor
itself. We’ve already flagged this up in
the ‘Be aware’ section opener but it’s
worth pointing out that the loose rocks
on this section can be a real puncture
risk. We ended up with a pump in our
hand and a couple of plugs in our tyre
on the recce ride even running tubeless.
The roll down the road to Nancledra is
of the more relaxing kind and then you
cross the upper reaches of the Red River
on its short journey south to Marazion.
Mulfra Quoit and Chysauster diversion
If you want peak remoteness and technical
challenge, then the Neolithic site of Mulfra
Quoit is only accessed along a testing
ribbon of moorland singletrack. You’ll need
good eyes to find the start of the track
in summer heather, but your efforts will be
rewarded with a deeply evocative experience,
especially if there is mist swirling around
the stone slabs of the quoit.
Rolling on south rather than back-tracking
here drops you into the timeless hamlet of
Mulfra itself. Then it’s a short loop round
into the Trevaylor valley from where you can
heft over the short but horribly steep
leg-burner to the next shallow valley, and
south to the remarkably well-preserved Iron
Age hut circles of Chysauster. Be aware that
this site has restricted access, so check
the opening times in advance on the English
Heritage website.
From Chysauster you can either head directly
north up a bridleway that quickly turns from
broad and benign to devilishly difficult, or
heave back over the hill and then north up
the road to rejoin the core route.
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Cycling UK
Trencrom Hill
To be honest, Trencrom Hill had escaped
us entirely until we were on a recce ride
for another route when a herd of escaped
cows distracted us from our intended
bridleway route, and this happy accident
brought us to the foot of Trencrom Hill.
While the top is only accessed by
footpath, we’d definitely recommend
hiding your bike in the bushes at the
bottom and taking a hike to the top.
Here, you’ll get magnificent views across
to the coast on both sides as well as west
and east over Penwith and the Lizard.
This includes St Michael’s mount, where
legend tells that the resident giantess
Cormellian was killed by a hammer thrown
by Trecobben, the giant who lived on
Trencrom Hill. Whether you believe in
giants or not, the very easily defended
rocky slopes mean it was occupied in the
Neolithic period, and the hut circles on
the flat top date from the Bronze and Iron
Age periods, marking it as a key seat of
power in the area for thousands of years.
Nancledra to St Erth
A traversing climb up narrow, hedge-lined
roads brings you to the next bridleway
section just as things level out slightly.
This 2km stretch includes a lot of tight
hedge-lined singletrack which holds
moisture, and it seems to be popular
with horse riders too, so it can be very
wet and muddy even in summer. That’s
one of the reasons we’ve added the
Trencrom Hill diversion, but if you’re happy
to deal with some mud, the gradient is in
your favour, and you’ll soon be bursting
out of the bushes and onto the gravel
tracks for the descent towards
Canon’s Town.
It’s a mark of just how remote the rest of
this route has been (even if you swerved
into St Just for pasties and ice cream)
that even this broad road lined with
random detached houses seems very
suburban and quite a shock to the system.
The dog-leg crossing over the busy A30
ramps up the rude awakening, but at least
there’s a bike lane and separate turning
position in the centre so you can scuttle
across safely.
After a steady climb up across the railway
line to Penzance (it’s only about 8km
away at this point) you double back and
then double back again, to wind up past
the gorgeous Grade II listed 18th century
42
Part 2: Penwith Moors
mini manor house at Tredrea. The bridleway
takes you up around to the equally
gorgeous, and certainly larger, Grade II
listed 17th century Trewinnard Manor
(we smell a local manor competition
back in the day) where you can now rent
a holiday cottage with an outdoor pool
if you’re feeling fancy.
Then it’s a drop down through the woods
and up the far side to complete your
bypass of St Erth, though obviously you
can miss the manors if you’d rather dive
into town for some sustenance or even
an overnight stop. It’s also an obvious
place to end this section as the route
crossover occurs further along the
generally deserted, dirt-centred road after
it dives steeply down to cross a ford and
then climbs up along Countess Bridge
Lane. You’re also within a few kilometres
of St Ives, Marazion and even Penzance
if you want a more substantial place to
take an overnight break.
What’s with all the Saints?
You’ll have noticed by now that, like many
Celtic areas, Cornwall seems to have a
thing with saints, not just in terms of
churches but also place names. In fact,
Wikipedia lists 57 saints with clear links
to Cornwall, not least St Piran, the patron
saint of tin miners and Cornwall itself.
15th century Christian, Piran upset the
heathen locals in his native Ireland who tied
him to a mill stone and then rolled him off
a cliff into the sea. The storm that had been
raging suddenly calmed and the quern stone
presumably became some sort of coracle
(small Celtic ‘canoe’ made of animal hide)
in which Piran bobbed across the sea
to Cornwall. He started his Christian
missionary work immediately – apparently
practising on local animals first. He also
‘re-invented’ tin smelting and created the
Cornish Flag when his black hearthstone
had a white metal cross rise to the surface
when he set a fire on it.
Of course, you can choose whether to
believe the more ‘miraculous’ elements
of his story or not, but the 5–7th century
Welsh, Britannic or Irish origins are typical
of most of Cornwall’s saints. So is the
story of them being chased out of their
homelands by invading pagan tribes, and
in fact many of the saints were also kings/
queens/princes/princesses or at least
military leaders too.
This reinforces the known history that
this post Roman period was very turbulent
in terms of invaders and power shifts
right across northern Europe. It also
underlines just how much movement of
people and culture there was up and down
the whole Celtic Atlantic coast from the
Mesolithic all the way through to the
medieval period, and how the rich lands
of Cornwall have always been a popular
place to escape to.
43
Parts 3 and 4 overview
The Loe
PART THREE
Cycling UK
100m
50m
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10km
20km
28km
200m
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Part 3 – The Loe
20km
41km
20km
150m
St Erth
to Helston
100m
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Ascent: 419m
50m
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Highlights
Be aware0km
• Deserted country lanes
• There are some notable hills –
both up200m
and down – but nothing
150m
as steep
as you’ve done so far
100m
• Woodland valley bridleways
• Panoramic peninsular views
• Prehistoric and mining history
• Fantastic foodie harbour
• Spectacular sand bar
Navigation
This short section uses a mix of quiet back
roads and bridleways but there’s nothing
hidden behind bushes or under heather,
so navigation is relatively simple. The
only potential complications are the
diversion around Tregonning Hill and
deciding whether you want to head into
Helston at the end or carry on across
the Loe Bar straight onto the Lizard.
48
20km
40km
50mcrossing at Ashton can
• The A394
0m
be busy
0km
10km
20km
30km
• Porthleven will probably be full of
meandering pedestrians, so ride
200m
accordingly
60km
39km
100mcoastal pathway beyond
• The lower
0m has been washed away
Porthleven
0km impassable,
20km so double 44km
and is totally
back and go high
• The loose gravel switchbacks down
to the Loe can be tricky too
Part 3: The Loe
Porthleven
Area introduction
and route summary
This short ‘bridging’ section shouldn’t be
underestimated as it takes you over one
of the higher points of Cornwall’s spine
at Tregonning. That’s compounded by
the up-and-over nature of the roads and
bridleways to Godolphin, so expect your
legs to make themselves known in places.
Making the effort takes you through some
enchanting places that few others will
see, and it unlocks fabulous views, both
inland and coastal.
You’ll not be seeing much at first though,
as the route takes you along classic
high-banked and tree-lined Cornish lanes
over to Relubbus. Following the River
Hayle upstream takes you along a wooded
bridleway past fishponds and mining
remains, before the climb up to Godolphin
begins on quiet lanes past beautifully
maintained cottage gardens. The surface
changes to gravel as you head up past
Godolphin Hill itself and it’s on and off
grit over to Tregonning Hill with its fantastic
panoramic views. Here, you can take the
high route past the prehistoric sites and
quarries to start the gradual descent
towards the coast early.
Either way, you’ll end up in Ashton, where
you’ll cross the main road, and then it’s
a glorious glide all the way down into
Porthleven. This picturesque double
harbour is a definite highlight of the route
(especially if you’re hungry), and it also
marks a switch from inland to coastal for
the next section of your adventure. That’s
obvious straight away as you climb out
around the stone pier onto the heathland
tops with views back across Mount’s Bay
and down the Lizard Peninsula where
you’ll be heading next. Dropping back down
to the sea it’s time to decide whether to
loop inland under the broad wood-canopied
promenade to Helston for supplies (and
possibly a stopover), or cross the unique
sand bank of the Loe Bar to continue
your journey south.
In terms of surface, there’s more road
than the previous section and most of the
off-road tracks are nowhere near as testing
either, so it’s a chance to relax and look
at the views a bit more. Just be careful
on the singletrack of Tregonning Hill and
the coast path from Porthleven to Helston,
as they’re slightly tricky in places.
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Cycling UK
St Erth to Tregonning Hill
Heading south from St Erth on deserted
back roads with tall hedges and trees,
you’re on a rollercoaster in and out of small
stream valleys with pixie-filled woods and
streams that can spill onto the road even
when there’s not an actual ford crossing.
Dropping down into the stone cottage
hamlet of Relubbus, you need to turn right
onto the bridleway immediately after you
cross the tiny bridge over the River Hayle.
You follow the crystal waters upstream
past scattered cottages with flower filled
gardens (even the recycling bins we
saw were decorated), old fishponds and
small woods as tyres roll easily along
grass-centred gravel tracks.
It gets less easy as you start climbing up
through Trescowe in the shadow of small,
irregular fields that clearly haven’t changed
since it was horse and man tilling them,
not machines. If you look through the
occasional gaps in the tall hedges loaded
with a botanist’s dream of seemingly
limitless assortment of shrubs, flowers,
and insects, you’ll see small clumps of
trees hiding old mines and shafts of this
mineral rich pocket.
You turn right onto another gravelly climb
just after a well-preserved engine house
with a tall brick chimney. Reaching the
summit with Godolphin Hill on your left
shoulder, the views out over Penwith,
Penzance, and Mount’s Bay are suddenly
revealed on your right as the hedge
boundaries fall away. While Godolphin
Hill lies seemingly untouched under a
blanket of ferns, a hoard of Bronze Age
axes and a prehistoric village were both
uncovered during Victorian mining
operations. This proves the prominent
peak has always been important for its
commanding position and the metallic
and mineral deposits it’s formed from.
Whether you take a walk up to the top
of the hill or just stay on the track below,
it’s a great spot to stop for a while,take in
50
Lost way: Tregonning Hill
As you’ll spot from the sign at the
beginning, the route over Tregonning is
actually marked as a footpath rather than
a bridleway. However, the track features
on a variety of historic maps as an old
road, and has been used for many years
by local riders (of bike and horse varieties)
prior to an application in 2006 to record
it as a bridleway based on long use. Full
details of this right of way claim, along
with a formal recommendation to upgrade
its status, can be seen on the council’s
website under reference WCA541, but if
anyone grumbles at you, you can politely
point out the historical precedent.
all the riding you’ve racked up so far,
and congratulate yourself for completing
the first major block of climbing before a
blissfully long gravity-gifted roll to the coast.
Dropping down to a dog-leg road junction,
you curve round to a crossroads where
the bridleway takes you straight on
between a tidy stone cottage and its
garage, into a tunnel of tree lined double
track before turning up to the road. You’ll
see a tempting bridleway towards Mount
Whistle dead ahead, but we follow the
road left until a bench on a raised green.
Here, you can carry on rolling down the
road through Balwest or take the off-road
route along the ridge of Tregonning Hill.
Part 3: The Loe
Godolphin House
The West Kernow Way passes the other
side of Godolphin Hill to the gorgeous
National Trust property with its unique
pillared front, and it’s only a short road
loop detour to include it in your adventure.
As well as the house, there are walks
through the landscaped grounds (partially
constructed by French Napoleonic
prisoners) and a traditional tearoom
at ‘The Piggery’.
It gets less easy as you start climbing up
through Trescowe in the shadow of small,
irregular fields that clearly haven’t changed
since it was horse and man tilling them.
Like Godolphin, the double-humped ridge
of Tregonning Hill has understandably been
important for literally Ages. Bronze Age
Kernow cultures used it as a site for
several barrows and Castle Pencaire, the
double bank and ditch hill fort that looks
over you as you climb up to the top of the
ridge dates from the Iron Age. There are
two Iron Age/Romano British settlement
‘rounds’ on the lower western slope and
a hoard of Roman coins was found buried
in one of the barrows too.
From the top, not only can you look all
the way down The Lizard, but also north
towards Falmouth and the hills at the back
of Redruth. You’ll be looking out over the
remains of quarries where China Clay was
first extracted, allowing the English pottery
industry to make their own porcelain and
compete with eastern imports for the
premium ceramic market. There are
rumours of John Wesley himself preaching
on the hill too (which presumably accounts
for the Wesleyan chapel and church in
Balwest at the foot of the hill). Not only is
the hill fascinating from a historical point
of view, it’s also a nice bit of singletrack
riding after a relatively long stint of road
and mild gravel. However, with access
negotiations currently ongoing, please
be even more careful and considerate
of other path users than usual.
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Cycling UK
Porthleven
The most southerly port in the UK, Porthleven’s harbour has been a vital refuge for ships
right back into the distant past. Its own boats were crucial for the export of tin and, later,
China Clay, and its fishing fleet ranged far and wide too, with the products of its busy
boatyard being sought after as far away as South Africa. The large number of local
shipwrecks made it one of the first RNLI lifeboat stations.
While commercial use is now much reduced, the harbour is still very popular with
recreational boats as well as sea rowers and canoeists. The shelf created by blasting
works for the outer harbour pier has a reputation as the best reef break in Cornwall too.
It’s very popular with general visitors, and has an excellent range of places to eat and
stay if you want to refuel or rest on the coast rather than round the corner at Helston.
52
Part 3: The Loe
Tregonning Hill
to Porthleven
You’ll need to be careful crossing the A387
at Ashton too, as while there’s a 30mph
speed limit, this main link from Helston to
Penzance is always busy. If you want to
avoid the 100m or so of dog-leg, use the
pedestrian island in the middle and walk
along the pavement on the far side. Heading
down through the hamlet of Rinsey Croft
with its dry-stone garden walls and pretty
cottages, the road will swing you round
south east for an almost dead-straight,
gradually downhill run towards the coastal
cliffs into Porthleven. While it’s a lovely
section of the route on a bike, this part of
the coast was notorious for shipwrecks of
sailing ships forced against the rocky shore
by prevailing westerly winds. In fact, waves
smashing against the granite sea wall by
Porthleven Institute at the base of the pier
are still regularly used as a backdrop for
news reports of possible stormy weather.
As you roll into the village, make sure you
split to the right for the best views of the
self-same Institute, the outer harbour and
the long stone pier that shelters it. Rolling
round to the inner harbour the white walled
cottages have an almost Greek feel, but the
menus at the stalls and restaurants make
the most of local produce, whether that’s
super fresh seafood or traditional pasties.
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Cycling UK
Leaving Porthleven
Porthleven to Helston
To exit the town, it’s a rumble round the far
side of the harbour on chunky cobbles to
the outer pier, past the surfers, and then a
climb up through the cottages of the south
side of the town. At the edge of Porthleven,
make sure you keep climbing and hooking
round to the left rather than dropping down
through the car park to follow the old coast
path – that’s now closed, having vanished
into the sea following a recent landslip.
As long as the weather is behaving, going
high does give you fantastic views out over
Mount’s Bay from the broad gravel bike path.
Concentrate on the switchback corners
rather than the vistas as you drop down
at the far end though, as the loose gravel
can be slippery, and it’s an understandably
popular walk round from Helston.
When you reach the small lodge at the
bottom of the slope, you’ve got a decision
to make. The full route option is to follow
the broad, gravel ‘promenade’ as it winds
through rich broadleaf woodland on the
east edge of The Loe. You can then loop
through the pretty parkland of Penrose
House and north into the charming town
of Helston for supermarket supplies and
maybe a stopover.
54
Helston
Helston is the most southerly town in the
UK and has managed to survive as the
commercial and community focal point of
the Lizard, despite being cut off from the
sea for at least several centuries. No one
knows when the Loe Bar sand bank sealed
off the sea end of the River Cober, but we
do know the area had a rich prehistoric
settlement and spiritual landscape as
well as a Romano-British phase before
appearing in Saxon records as Hellys.
It rose to real importance when it was
appointed as a stannary town (where tin
quality was assessed for taxes) by King
John, and it remained a centre for local
mining and trade until the late 19th
century. It’s still famous for its idyllic
inland Loe lagoon and the traditional
Cornish Flora Day festival and dance,
which is still held in May every year.
The shorter option is to follow the South
West Coast Path and take the slipway
straight onto the beach and – unless
you’ve got super-wide tyres – push across
the remarkable sandy feature of the Loe
Bar to short-circuit the Helston segment.
Part 3: The Loe
The Loe Bar
Nobody is sure when the shingle beach of the Loe Bar fully closed off the River Cober
running down from Helston, but the last mention of ships trading from the town is in the
13th century. Or you could believe the legend that the bar was formed when a local giant
called Tregeagle accidentally dropped an appropriately giant-sized bag of sand while
carrying it from Gunwalloe to Porthleven as part of a punishment.
However it happened, it’s certainly well sealed now, and the freshwater lake (The Loe)
it created is the largest in Cornwall and a beautifully tranquil home to up to 80 different
species of birds. According to Arthurian legend, it’s also where Sir Bedivere threw
‘Excalibur’ – King Arthur’s legendary sword of invincibility – returning it to the ‘Lady
of the Lake’ before the mortally wounded king died.
The sea side of the Bar also has a rather more gruesome legend regarding a killer wave
that takes a life every seven years. That’s not just myth either, as large Atlantic waves
surging across the bay onto the steeply shelving shore create savage currents that make
entering the sea here extremely dangerous and regularly lethal, despite the numerous
warning signs and lifebelts.
Keep your feet dry though and this remarkable part of the coast is a fantastic place
to sit and contemplate the adventure so far, and an obvious break point into the next
section of the route.
The Loe sand bar that separates it from the
sea is well worth quick detour along too,
but don’t be tempted into the water as it’s
particularly treacherous at this point.
55
Lizard Peninsula
PART FOUR
100m
Cycling UK
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10km
20km
28km
200m
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20km
41km
20km
150m
100m
50m
Refreshments in Coverack
0m
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Part 4 – Lizard Peninsula
23km
100m
Helston to
Constantine
Distance: 60km
10km
50m
0m
0km
20km
40km
Ascent: 1219m 200m
150m
Highlights
• Spectacular coastal cliff views
• Beautiful coves and beaches
• Stunning harbour villages
• Most southerly point of the UK mainland
• Lighthouses
• Prehistoric mystery
• Precious nature reserves
• World War II defences
• Intergalactic space station (yes really)
• Optional ferry crossing
• Seal sanctuary
• Historic airfields
100m
50m
0m
Navigation
0km
10km
20km
30km
39km
Cornwall is never
the
easiest
place
to plot
a course through but this section at least
starts relatively simply. Just keep the water
200m
on your right, whether it’s the Loe coming
100m
out of Helston, or the sea between the Loe
0m
Bar and Mullion.
You need to tiptoe across
0km
44km
the nature reserves
and20km
negotiated access
of the Lizard, and there’s a carry and push
across a beach at Kennack, but otherwise
it’s a join-the-dots exercise up to Coverack.
The sheer number of different lanes and
junctions from here to Gweek (or across
the ferry shortcut at Helford) means
you’ll need to stay sharp on your GPS
screen or your map if you’re going to
get to Constantine on time.
Be aware
• Don’t go swimming at the Loe Bar
• Steep descents and climbs around
Ruan Minor, Coverack, Helford,
Mawgan, Gweek and Constantine
58
60km
• Duck as you go across Gunwalloe
golf course
• The main road through and out
of Lizard can be busy
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Area introduction and route summary
The Lizard gets some love as the
southernmost peninsula in the UK, but it
doesn’t receive nearly as much attention
from cyclists as its western sibling Land’s
End. That’s a real shame for the local
economy, but potentially brilliant for riders,
as it’s generally blissfully empty away
from Lizard Point itself.
Even the Loe and its unique Bar beach
are quieter than you’d expect and the
breathtaking rock-flanked bridges of
Church Cove and Poldhu are the kind of
places whose beauty you want to preserve.
Mullion is a lively village with useful
facilities but the snaking route past
Predannack down towards Lizard Point
feels like particularly precious access
through beautiful nature reserves above
stunning cliff vistas. The Lizard has real
welcoming charm as you soak up the most
southerly point of the route, and the British
mainland, and then you weave through
a dramatically evocative atmosphere of
distant pasts, across beaches backed
by wartime defences and tiny traditional
time-slip fishing coves to the gorgeous
harbour village and bay of Coverack.
It’s the signature high-banked back lanes
that bring you back north to the sleepy
seal sanctuary creek of Gweek, or you can
short-cut via the gorgeous thatched-cottage
village of Helford to hop on a tiny ferry
across the river.
Then it’s punchy hills and pixie-wood
valleys to Constantine from either direction
to finish this wonderfully charismatic part
of the West Kernow Way adventure and
get ready for the run north to Portreath.
While this section has a higher ratio of
road than previous parts of the route,
steep gradients, beach pushes and too
many places too beautiful to rush through
mean you’re unlikely to see a rise in your
average speed. The rewards for relaxing
and really making the most of the unique
part of the world between Helston and
Constantine are worth the time invested
many times over, and if you want to reduce
the distance aquatically there’s always
the foot-ferry option at Helford.
Church of the Storms
Helston to Mullion
We leave Helston the same way we came
in – through Coronation Park – but this
time, instead of going all the way round the
boating lake, exit through the side gate and
take the road spur through the housing
estate across the B road. You’ll be off-road
straight away, and transferring from gravel
track to wooded singletrack definitely needs
caution as on a moist morning there are
enough roots to trip tyres up if you’re not
careful. Dog walkers and other riders have
created several different strands of path
through the woods, too, so if in doubt keep
to the right alongside the narrow River
Cober rather than popping out onto the
fields above. Once you’re next to the Loe
itself the navigation is easy so you’ll have
attention spare to take in this beautifully
tranquil lagoon, visited by up to 80 species
of bird during annual migrations. The Loe
sand bar that separates it from the sea
is well worth a quick detour along too,
but don’t be tempted into the water as
it’s particularly treacherous at this point.
Once you’ve emptied your shoes of sand
you take a rough farm track up and away
from the beach but are soon paid back
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Cycling UK
with wide, smooth and generally totally
empty roads with huge sea views to the
right and the ‘famous’, multi-award-winning
Halzephron Inn at Chyanvounder on your
left, before dropping down to Church
Cove. This ruggedly beautiful spot just
past Gunwalloe is named after the tiny
‘Church of the Storms’ hiding behind
the rocky promontory that separates the
two beaches, with its weather-beaten
graveyard also reminding you what a
dangerous place the sea can be.
Barrow graves from an entirely different era
watch over you from the headland to the
south as you scrabble up the rocky double-
track across the golf course, so be sure
to check for players teeing off just in case.
The clubhouse at the top is potentially
useful stop if you’re running earlier or later
than the opening times of most cafés.
Then it’s left on the road for the steep
drop into the surfing hotspot of National
Trust-owned Poldhu Cove, where another
café looks out over the small but perfectly
formed arc of golden sand. Once you’re
done watching the surfers there’s a
short but stiff climb over the headland
to Mullion, where Marconi made history
and confirmed Cornwall as a centre for
global communication innovation.
Marconi at Poldhu
Archaeology confirms that Poldhu Point has been visited
from at least the Bronze Age but it was young Italian
Guglielmo Marconi who made Poldhu internationally
famous in 1901. Using a makeshift array of transmitter
masts he sent radio signals from here using his ‘spark
transmitter’ masts and they were picked up by a similar
array in Newfoundland on the eastern Atlantic coast of
the US. While the undersea cable telegraph station at
Porthcurno had already shortened messaging times
to hours and minutes, this new form of transatlantic
communication was essentially instant and utterly
transformative.
Marconi went on to demonstrate his shortwave radio
technology at the site in the 1920s, and while the local
global/intergallactic communications tech hub is now at
Goonhilly Earth Station there’s still a small museum on
the site at Poldhu to commemorate its place in history.
Predannack Airfield
Hastily built as a satellite airfield for RAF Culdrose when France fell
to the Germans, the fighter squadrons at Predannack moved from
defending the ports and shipping of the south west coast to offensive
operations across the channel and out over the Atlantic. Its southerly
position and an extended runway also made it a natural base for larger
Coastal Command bombers, and a valuable refuelling point for aircraft
heading towards Africa as well as an emergency landing strip. It’s still
regularly used for training by helicopters from Culdrose and there’s
been a model flying club operating from there since 1950, so don’t
be surprised if something flies over your head as you pedal past.
60
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
The climb towards Mullion
Mullion harbour
The village of Mullion is one of the oldest on
the Lizard peninsula with a rich prehistoric
archaeological record of burial and sacred
sites, followed by early Christian Celtic
crosses before the current Norman based
church was built. The charming cottages of
the village housed workers in both tin mines
and China Clay quarry workers inland and
fishermen who worked out of Mullion Cove
just to the south. Soft alc was also mined
from the steep sided ravine of Soap Rock to
the south, which gets its name from the
soft mineral historically used for cleaning
and as an additive for clay, paint and other
products. Mullion Cove’s tiny stone harbour
and historic lifeboat station are finitely
worth a short detour to as well.
Mullion
It’s also a very important nature area with
multiple Sites of Special Scientific Interest
along the cliffs to the south and a bird
reserve on Mullion Island just offshore.
Mullion to Predannack Airfield
The West Kernow Way crosses the Mullion
Cove road and then drops steeply down to
a beautiful stream valley with an old stone
bridge and crystal-clear ford. Then it’s a
short climb up through narrowing hedges
onto a singletrack bridleway that takes you
to the MOD Keep Out signs and chainlink
fences of Predannack Airfield. From
here you’ll backtrack a little around the
perimeter to a rough road with views out
over prehistoric barrows and the site of
an old Celtic cross to the sea at Mullion
Cove and across to Penzance.
Take care heading along the narrow lane
towards Predannack, as cattle are often
moved between the two farms along this
lane, so you might have to sit tight and
be patient if you find yourself caught in
a cattle-jam. Watch out for cows grazing
on the next bit of heathland too.
From Predannack the narrow bridleway
takes a quick down and up through a ford
followed by a couple of hundred metres of
what can be a particularly percussive path
between two tall hedges if it’s dry, or an
incredibly churned-up muddy stretch when
it’s wet. Hopefully your bolts, bags and teeth
won’t be too loosened by the horse-trod
hammered surface, or your wheels claimed
by the bog, and you’ll be relieved to know
it soon smoothens out as it kinks left
towards the edge of the airfield again.
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Cycling UK
You find incredible coastline and varied
inland pleasures – from countless prehistoric
sites to breathtakingly beautiful nature
reserves and stunning villages.
Predannack Airfield to Lizard
Things get complicated in terms of
potential and advised routes as you take
a switchback in the path and come back
to the National Trust managed Lizard
Nature Reserve. The map shows a
bridleway following the top edge of the cliffs
above George’s Cove, which continues as
broad, rock studded grassland all the way
round to Kynance Cove where you’ll find a
small beach and café. This sounds utterly
unmissable, and when we recce’d the route
the panoramic coastal views underlined by
sea roaring against the high cliffs proved
truly spectacular. However, the route
crosses fragile habitats and prehistoric
archaeological features, and while it might
be marked as a bridleway the loose, steep,
rocky descent into the ravine of Soap Rock
Cove (often called Soapy Cove) is technical
and treacherous even on foot with a lightly
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loaded bike; the climb out the far side is
similarly unforgiving. Following the coast
south, the final part of the descent into
Kynance Cove takes the form of steep and
deep concrete steps that are a definite
no-ride zone and very awkward even when
carrying. (Fear not, though: it is still
possible to visit Kynance and take in one
of Cornwall’s most iconic views with a short
detour from our recommended route below.)
As a result, our recommended route
instead peels south onto a permissive
access route, negotiated with Natural
England and the National Trust in order to
minimise impact on this sensitive location,
and continues past Kynance Farm, known
locally as Jollytown. The route crosses
further fields and then the heath, leaving the
main track to descend a rocky path to the
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
izard National Nature
L
Reserve
Kynance Cove
Heathland is a rare habitat in lowland
Britain today, and the Lizard National
Nature Reserve supports a particularly
diverse mix of rare species and valuable
wildlife habitats. The thin dry soils
support an incredible diversity of clovers
and other plants, down to a miniature
scale. This includes the Erica vagans
or Cornish Heath, a rare shrub only
found on the Lizard peninsula.
Lizard village
Before you start looking at the shape of
the peninsula or hoping for tales of giant
sea monsters, we’ll have to disappoint
and explain that Lis Ard just means
High Place in old Cornish. Its position
overlooking the southernmost part of
Britain makes it something of a tourist
spot, but somehow it maintains a ton
of charm that some might find lacking
from Land’s End.
Make sure you head down to the
double-towered lighthouse, the oldest
in mainland Britain, complete with a row
of high-chimneyed cottages that give it a
castellated look. While the first recorded
light was placed here to protect shipping
in 1619, it has been a crucial lookout
point since long before that and it was
where the Spanish Armada invasion
fleet was first sighted in 1588.
The (optional) steps out of Kynance Cove
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Cycling UK
Heading west on the single-carriageway,
speed-humped road towards Lizard keep
an eye out for Chapel Lane, a bridleway
short cut into the heart of the village. Here
at the southernmost point of mainland
UK you can expect the free-range village
green car park to be a mess of confused
motorists, so be cautious as you filter
through the cars, past the ancient Cornish
cross and take the lane south past various
tearoom options in the village centre. Stay
alert on the two-way section of the narrow
lane and then follow the one-way routing
to the double-towered Lizard lighthouse
and heritage centre car park.
Lizard lighthouse
stream at Kynance Gate. On the highpoint
above is a Bronze Age settlement of stone
hut circles, thought to be a summer base
for animal herders. These heaths are still
grazed in summer today by hardy native
breeds of cattle such as Red Devons and
Welsh Blacks owned by local farmers.
After crossing the stream, we emerge from
the heath onto a metalled road near the
National Trust car park and toilets. This
keeps the whole section of the route
rideable, and a short diversion to Kynance
Cove is well worth considering. It’s a
hugely popular visitor destination, with
a dramatic mix of cliffs, islands and caves
all linked by a sandy beach, best seen at
low tide. The dark towering cliffs are made
of serpentine, an unusual rock, formed
deep in the earth’s mantle, which rarely
reaches the surface. If you want to see for
yourself, head towards the coast along the
tarmac road, though this section of path can
be busy with visitors so the National Trust
has asked that riders dismount through
here and leave their bikes at the racks.
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If you want the perfect opportunity to
soak up some rugged coastal views while
refuelling with a particularly fine cream tea,
then we’d strongly suggest you roll down
the 100 metres of remaining road right
to the tip of the peninsula and pop into
‘Britain’s most Southerly Café’ (their caps
not ours), where seabirds hover over the
old lifeboat station ramp and the rolling
sea arcs out around the evocatively
named rugged rocks of Vellan Drang.
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Lizard to Coverack
Once you’ve had your fill of horizon, head
back inland through Lizard and scuttle
along the 2km section of unavoidable main
road northwards across the Lizard Downs.
You’ll soon be darting down a gravel
bridleway past prehistoric barrow burials,
and as you head south seawards the
surprising wildness and isolation of
this part of Cornwall will wrap around
you again. The ancient past is barely
interrupted by the descent into Cadgwith,
where ancient mariners sit mending nets
and lobster pots next to small fishing
boats pulled up onto the cobbled beach.
Be prepared for a haul yourself as you
winch up the winding back road to
Ruan Minor, turning right past the
stubby-towered church through barely
bar-width lanes to Poltesco and Kuggar.
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Cadgwith
While fishing boats have been pulled onto
the shingle beach of Cadgwith Cove since
the dawn of time, the thatched cottages
of this tiny hamlet only started appearing
in the 16th century. Before then fishing
was just used to supplement farming
in the same way it had been for 5,000
years, with ‘Huers’ – people standing
on the cliffs to either side of the cove –
directing boats to the shoals of fish.
Catches today are nowhere near the 1904
four day record of 1,800,000 pilchards
(yes, nearly two million) but a variety of fish
and shellfish are still landed for export and
to supply the local pub, café and seafood
snack hut. The Huer’s hut still stands
watching over the cove and the numerous
shipwreck sites of the surrounding rocks.
Coverack
This natural harbour with its steep street
rolling down to a lifeboat station-based
fish and chip shop and fishermen’s pub
is a wonderfully evocative kernel of total
Cornishness. That makes it a prime spot
for stopping overnight – we stayed at the
youth hostel looking out over the bay,
but there are several hotels and other
accommodation options – or at least
exploring the area from the long bay to
the north or the prehistoric promontory
fort of Chynhalls Point to the south.
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From Kuggar it’s a one-way roll down to
the café next to the holiday park and a hop
onto the double scoop of sandy beach at
Kennack. While there’s still some beach
left at high tide, seekers of solitude should
make the short push and scramble to the
furthest beach which typically has about
1% of the number of people on the first
one. Its shallow slope makes it popular for
launching dive boats that visit the multiple
wrecks off the coast here, but also made
it a prime site for invasion. The concrete
wall at the back of the beach was cast
to stop German tanks rolling inland
in World War II. Luckily it’s since been
breached enough by the sea to sneak a
bike through, but the ancient grassed-over
cobbled track that you follow up the side
of the valley is more likely to be taken
at a steady march rather than blitzed.
While largely untouched by modern features,
the ancient lanes you roll along now are
surrounded by hut circles and tumuli from
millennia ago. Riding across this landscape,
its wind-bent trees draped in skeins of
mist with the dawning sun strobing through,
was one of the most memorable snapshots
of the whole route-checking trip too. The
recce trip is also why we extended the
route into Coverack, which is undoubtedly
worth the diversion and the steep climb
out of the far side.
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Lost way section at Trevenwith
The climb up the back of Kennack Sands
towards the farmstead at Trevenwith follows
an ancient lane and field path, marked
on OS maps as both footpath and access
land. Historic mapping here suggests that
the route once had a higher status, and
the stone cobbles under the grassy surface
support this conclusion. Cycling UK has
submitted a map modification application
for this route, but in order to avoid any
disputes, we’re recommending for now that
you push up this path (it’s steep and grassy
enough that you’ll probably be pushing
anyway), and remount once you reach
the byway beyond the gates.
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Cycling UK
Coverack to Gweek
Heading north inland immerses you
right back into the furthest past with
archaeological remains dating back to
6500 BC at Poldowrian Garden and
multiple burial mounds and standing
stones showing how significant this area
has been throughout the human history of
the UK. The richness of the land and the
pockets of dense woodland in stream split
valleys become the signature south Cornish
screen saver and leg strainer as you weave
your way north. Keep your eyes peeled for
the far more modern skyline created by
Goonhilly Earth Station to the south west,
and this part of the route also comes
with an optional ferry accessed short cut
north across the river estuary at Helford.
If you want to stay on dry land or you’re
out of season for the ferry, then roll on
north west through Newtown and St Martin.
You’ll pass multiple prehistoric settlements
around Caer Vallack with its holy spring
and the Halliggye Fogou and medieval
Trellowarren chapel sit on the ridge the
other side of the valley to the south. It’s
not just the local history that goes through
many twists and turns though. Not only
is the road down into Mawgan Creek and
then up the far side to its village namesake
a brake and leg testing snake, but other
Goonhilly Earth Station
A heathland nature reserve covered in
prehistoric burial mounts and standing
stones might not seem the most obvious
site for a multiple satellite dish installation
fresh out of a sci-fi colony movie, but
Goonhilly has clearly been a place for
mankind to communicate with the beyond
for thousands of years. The Earth Station
benefits from the solid granite geology
and clear pollution-free southern skies in
the same way as our forefathers did too
and while most of the research done here
relates to distant galaxies and Artificial
Intelligence it also has clear links with
Cornwall’s recent world-shrinking Marconi
and Telegraph history.
Gweek
Mawgans in Brittany and Wales confirm the
archaeological and cultural links that have
tied these Western Celtic areas together
for thousands of years. A classically Celtic
aesthetic means the thatched medieval
longhouse where you turn in the middle
of the village has pale pink walls under
its low reed brows. From here it’s down
into another thickly wooded, steep sided
stream valley, splashing through the
glittering ford and then up and over past
another prehistoric settlement enclosure
before dropping down towards Gweek.
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Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
The Helford ferry option
This option shortcuts the loop inland via Gweek by using a small foot passenger and cyclist
ferry from the gorgeous thatched cottage hamlet of Helford across the Helford River estuary
to the Ferryboat Inn at Passage Cove on the far side. You’ve then got a serious set of
up-and-over hills between beautiful creeks where sailing boats and motor cruisers wait for
their leisure captains and abandoned boats slowly dissolve back into the water. The steep
roads are daisy chained together with picture perfect cottage gardens and the old slipways,
mineral mine sites and oyster beds of Port Navas until you’re back on track at Constantine.
The ferry only runs from April to October though and even then its weather dependent, so
check to make sure you’re not going to be left high and dry on the day before diverting
north from Tregowris. Find out more on 01326 250770
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Cycling UK
This pretty village sits in the fork of two
creeks at the top of the Helford estuary
and became the adopted eastern facing
sea harbour for Helston when the Loe
Bar cut it off from direct coastal access.
The south side of the first creek still has
several working quays for pleasure and
trade use and a combination of both bright
and obviously still much loved and sadly
rotting boat wrecks sit together on the tidal
mud flats either side. The postcard-ready
white rendered buildings of the village
centre include a pub, shop and post office
where you can refuel and relax for a while
and the National Seal Sanctuary sits
alongside the Helford River if you want
to go and say hello.
Gweek Seal Sanctuary
The National Seal Sanctuary has been saving
young pups and injured seals for over sixty years,
bringing them back to full health before releasing
them to enjoy the Cornish coast. The centre also
looks after more exotic seals and sea lions from
zoos as well as penguins and less seaworthy
sheep, goats and ponies. As well as a café, gift
shop, feeding time displays and a play area it’s
also the site of an experimental beaver colony
in the ‘Secret Creek’ and all money raised from
admission goes towards saving more seals
and other local ecological work.
Helford river
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Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Permissive bridleway
Gweek to Constantine
Be warned that spending too long being
charmed by everyone’s favourite sea dogs
might put an extra ache in your legs as
the back road north out of Gweek turns
right off the tarmac onto a short gravel
farm track and then a rougher, steeper
climb than you’ve had to cope with for
a while. Crossing the Gweek road just
south of another earthwork site on
Naphene Downs you’ll level for a bit,
before a dog-leg junction drops you into
Nancenoy where the far side is a positive
wall in terms of gradient. The only good
news in terms of effort is that the
permissive bridleway turn off follows the
farm track just before the stone stepped
clamber into the raised field where the
official bridleway sign points. You’ve still
got a bit of climbing to do before you reach
the edge of Constantine and the end of
this section of the route.
Constantine
Although named after a Celtic Saint
(who might also have been a local king)
an underground Fogou at Pixies Hall
just to the north suggest a much older
origin for this village. Norman elements
to the church and the low stone medieval
houses of Fore Street still give it a
timeless feel though. While it’s definitely
quieter than during its mineral-rich past
(tin, iron, copper, gold and granite were
all mined or quarried locally) it’s still got
a pub, shop and hairdressers to refresh
you physically and cosmetically. There
are various places to stay locally too,
with more options in Gweek and Helston
as well if you fancy tying off your lap of
the Lizard with an overnight in the area.
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Parts 5 and 6 overview
A Mining Moonscape
PART FIVE
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5 – A Mining Moonscape
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to Portreath
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Distance:
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• Haunting mining moonscapes
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• Historic
mining trails
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• Pixies Hall
• Fantastic food stops
• Fizzy reservoirs
• Dark Cold War secrets
• North coast coves
Be aware
• Typically narrow Cornish back lanes
with limited visibility from Constantine
to the A30
• The dog-leg A394 crossing east
of Longdowns can be busy
• Farmyard at Polkanuggo
• Although you cross over the A30
on a bridge north of Scorrier, the
road you’re on is also a main road
which can be busy
• Twisty mining trails singletrack can
be slippery with limited visibility
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Navigation
If you’ve managed all right this far, you’ll
be fine with the twisting and turning mix
of roads and bridleways. If not, it will
require some concentration, especially
round Stithians. There’s another lost
way section at Trethellan Water to be
aware of because it has been incorrectly
signed as a footpath.
While the mining trails from Lanner
onwards simplify things, there are still
plenty of different junctions on and off
roads to line up in the right order. The
clearly marked cycle path into Portreath
is a nice relaxing way to finish, though.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
Area introduction and route summary
We’re heading back across the spine of
West Kernow again on Part 5, and the
start has a similar vibe to Part 3 with
rural back lanes, byways and rolling hills.
While you start riding through a wood
past a prehistoric fogou (man-made
underground cave system), the tracks
and roads north are a little more open
than previous parts, so there’s the chance
to take in the beautiful rolling scenery
as you climb past Halvosso.
It’s great to see Cornwall’s industrial
past being repurposed for recreation
with old quarries and reservoirs becoming
watersports and activity centres, but you’ll
still pass a couple of working sites that
show the wealth of Cornwall still hidden
under its rich, rolling farmland.
Things change dramatically just south
of Lanner. The hard-packed bases of old
mining railways give you a traffic-free, easy
terrain tailwind under and over bridges,
past old engine houses and chimneys
gradually being absorbed by ivy. Some
of the trails turn into surprisingly twisty
singletrack descents, so be ready on your
brakes and bell as they’re popular with
dog walkers too.
The mining epicentre of Goon Gumpas
is like an inland version of the north
west coast mining sites of Part 2, but
with an even more evident effect on
the stripped-raw environment. It’s a
fascinating area to ride through, however,
and the industrial reality of Cornwall’s
recent past is vividly prominent.
The healing soon starts at Scorrier
where trees wrap round the old mine
wounds like bandages. Then it’s a rare
busy section of contemporary working
Cornwall that you dodge through over the
A30. The busyness vanishes as fast as it
appears and you’re soon cruising through
open country on winding gravel mining
trails and back roads past village cricket
pitches to Cambrose. There, you’d never
know dark Cold War secrets were brewing
for decades on a seemingly deserted
airfield just to the north.
Then it’s a particularly pretty and easy
final furlong through tunnels of trees
on another mining trail. This sneaks
you swiftly and smugly into Portreath
village without touching the busy road
you can see running parallel through
the trees below.
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Cornish Pixies
One thing we’ve not talked
about yet are Cornwall’s
most famous residents,
particularly since Harry
Potter: Cornish Pixies or
Piskies. Despite similar
size, wings and magical
powers, don’t make the
mistake of thinking they’re
fairies – according to
folklore, the two tiny
peoples often fight.
These famously territorial
sprites have maintained
their magical grip on south
west England, typically
housing themselves in
ancient Celtic sites. Like
their human co-habitants,
they’re normally very
friendly and love to
celebrate with dances and
parties, but they also love
to play practical tricks on
travellers. They certainly
had fun with us on our
recce ride, so be sure to be
respectful if you want their
blessings and help around
your lap of Cornwall.
If you do find yourself
being led astray by the
piskies, you can escape
their spell by turning
your coat inside out.
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Constantine to Lanner
The route leaves from the centre of Constantine on a
quiet, dead-end back lane so keep your eyes peeled for
the sneak onto the bridleway on your left between two
cottage garden walls. The bridleway leading north out of
Constantine on Well Lane has occasionally been blocked
by a locked gate, so you might have to detour onto the
track to the left in order to rejoin the bridleway past the
house. This leads you straight into a thick ‘Cornish
rainforest’ that climbs up above a stream said to be
frequented by local Piskies. No surprise then that
they’ve got their own Hall in the field just to your left.
Fogou
These underground stone passages with large
capstones are very similar to chambered cairns,
although they typically date to the Iron Age 2,000 years
later, and sometimes sit at the centre of settlements
such as the beautiful igloo-style chamber at Carn Euny
on the Penwith Peninsula. There are only 15 fogous in
Cornwall, but similar structures are found in northern
Europe and the Shetland Islands.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
Pixies Hall Fogou
One of the most easterly of the known
fogous in Cornwall, Pixies Hall, is hidden
under bushes in the middle of a field
and surrounded by trace remains of the
original settlement. The surviving structure
is 8m long, but there is evidence of buried
side passages which possibly led to other
entrances. Nineteenth-century antiquarian
excavators found Iron Age pottery inside
the chamber, tying in with dating evidence
from other fogous.
Once you’re past the hump of the Pixies
Hall fogou, you follow the forest trail past
old quarry scars before a drop to the old
mill at Trewardreva. If you’re hungry (or just
need supplies for later), we’d thoroughly
recommend a stop at the wonderful
‘Slice of Cornwall’ here too. The size of
the portions mean you might not thank us
as you tackle the stiff climb up straight
afterwards, but at least the trees will keep
the weather or heat off as you settle into
your rhythm.
You’ll need to keep that tempo going as
you split left onto a gravel track over the
top of the open hillside where you’ll swap
weather shelter for wonderful views of the
rolling hills you’ve conquered and the few
more to come. Don’t get too carried away
on the gravel farm track descent as it turns
sharply around three sides of the scattered
farm buildings of Job’s Water, but at least
the climb up to the road is sort of surfaced
for an easier roll.
Passing a handful of large villa cottages,
you’ll dive into lush green singletrack then
pop out onto the gently sloping pastures
of the wonderfully named Polkanuggo
farm. You go right through the farmyard
here, which a very vocal spaniel wasn’t
so keen about on our recce ride. The
farmer himself is very friendly, though,
so please be respectful and cheery and
keep the gates shut as you pass through
so he stays that way.
Grassy farm track becomes typical
deeply-hedged Cornish twisty back lanes to
Stithians, then it’s west onto mixed-surface
bridleways past the reservoirs with their
uniquely Cornish aerator bubbles to keep
them fresh. The far side of the reservoir
is a sailing and watersports centre with
a pub and camping for anyone fancying
an aquatic detour, but otherwise you’ll
double back briefly on the road before
heading up a gravel bridleway bordered
by a dry stone wall into a section of utterly
untouched ancient Cornwall. Be prepared
for the centre section to be a ride up
a babbling stream bed even in summer,
so if you want to keep your feet dry,
short-cut this part on the road.
More rolling road takes you to the next
section of off-road at Trethellan Water,
a well-surfaced track that climbs up onto
a hilltop with panoramic views over the
Carnon Valley.
Although the landscape of tiny Celtic
fields is largely untouched, you’ll pass
two quarries that are now used for
watersports and action adventure, while
the ‘crops’ across the valley include sheets
of shimmering solar panels. Bites are still
being taken out of the mineral-rich spine
of Cornwall at the top of the hill, though.
After a quick dog-leg across the busy main
road, it’s back to the idyllically quiet, rural
Cornwall you’ll have to come to love by now.
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Lost way section at Trethellan Water
Just north of Stithians Reservoir, there’s
a confusing path which is shown as a
bridleway on the OS map but signed as
a footpath on the ground. Historic maps
from throughout the 1900s and earlier
Rocks cleared from fields thousands of
years ago form the base of the thick, low
hedge banks here but, when you turn right
onto the next farm track, you’re suddenly
rolling down into a managed landscape of
an entirely different scale. Switchbacking
left, you’ll be onto the first section of
mining trail that climbs through thickets
and shale mounds that surround a warren
of old excavation shafts. You’ll then loop
all the way round south of Lanner on the
bed of the old railway that carried the
earth’s treasures north.
The rugged Cornish landscape
inevitably means there are lots
of steep climbs and descents
along the way...
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show this track as a public road, and an
application has been submitted to upgrade
it to a restricted byway on that basis. More
details are on Cornwall Council’s website
under reference WCA684.
Lanner short circuit
As you divert briefly onto the road just
north east of Lanner, the crashed flying
saucer (it’s actually a covered reservoir
but that’s much less exciting) and radio
masts mark the point where you have the
option to short circuit the whole lap of
Portreath and Redruth with just a couple
of kilometres of gravel railway track and
back road.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
Portreath
Lanner to Portreath
Cross the main road carefully and climb
through the housing estate to join the
mining trail heading east around Carn
Marth past ruined engine houses jutting
out of the trees. From here, it’s just a
diversion of a few hundred metres north
to the fascinating site of Gwennap Pit,
which is nothing like what you might
expect from the name.
After the engine house, you drop downhill
on the road onto the multiple sections
of mining trail that vary from broad
railway to fenced snicket to woodside
singletrack until you suddenly roll out
into the moonscape of Goon Gumpas.
This scoured landscape was the site
of multiple mines whose chimneys and
buildings can be seen on the skyline,
while toxic mineral deposits still stain
the settling lagoons of this ecological
open wound.
Gwennap Pit
While it’s formed in the bowl left by
collapsed mine workings, and the
12 concentric rings stepping down like
a circular amphitheatre look ancient,
Gwennap Pit is a religious site with
a far more recent history. Revolutionary
Methodist John Wesley preached at the
site 18 times between 1762 and 1789 and
called it “the most magnificent spectacle
this side of heaven”. It’s still in use for
worship today and the visitor centre has a
museum of Methodism as well as a café.
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Cycling UK
day from the mine workings, with an average
depth of over 400m. Here 3,000 men and
boys toiled, often in temperatures well over
40º C, to extract nearly half a million tons
of copper ore over 40 years.
The mines of Goon Gumpas
At one time this area had more steam
engines than the whole of continental Europe
and America combined. In the 1840s these
helped pump out 66 million litres of water a
Diving into the deep railway cutting east
to Twelveheads, you’ll double back on
a slightly lower traverse across the toxic
landscape of Goon Gumpas. It’s then an
amazing contrasting transformation into
thick woodland followed by idyllic open
pastures as you follow the cycle path
north to Scorrier.
The landscape ‘waterboarding’ continues
as you’re dunked back into woodland, past
the pub at Scorrier, then briefly onto a main
road to cross the really big A30 main road
on a bridge. From there, you turn off down
a gravel track past a remarkable miniature
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The heyday of Cornish mining didn’t last long,
as the technology and expertise developed
here spread worldwide (together with the
miners themselves), and the site was later
used as a tip and settling lagoons for other
local mines. These have left high levels of
arsenic, copper and zinc that make it toxic
to live on and the many shafts in the area
are potentially very dangerous too, so make
sure you stay on the bike path. While it’s
a sombre, unsettling sight, they do create
some incredible staining colours in summer
when the lagoons dry out.
Nancekuke Airfield
Apart from its splendid name, the large
WWII RAF base on the plateau just north
of Portreath seems unremarkable. It was
a fighter base for a while, before hosting
squadrons of Atlantic patrol aircraft.
Afterwards, it was mostly used as an
occasional staging post for aircraft
flying from America to Africa and the
Mediterranean.
However, there’s a darker element buried
in the site and surrounding mine workings.
Renamed the ‘Chemical Defense
Establishment,’ by the 1950s it was
producing tons of Sarin and VX nerve
gas as well as other chemical weapons.
Despite a cloak of secrecy, the site was
exposed for what it was in 1965 owing to
the related deaths and health issues of
site workers and locals – including those
up the coast at Porthtowan where large
number of mystery seal deaths were also
reported. The lab site was demolished and
buried in 1980 with much of the
equipment apparently sunk into mine
shafts, but investigations into the site’s
operation and related compensation
claims are still ongoing.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
mine model in a bungalow’s back garden,
and then onto more wooded mine track,
all in the space of less than a kilometre.
Thankfully, there’s now an extended
section of old mining trail that snakes
gently north east before joining a highhedged singletrack road that’ll eventually
take you right back to the deserted lanes
of Penwith at the start of your adventure.
There’s even a cricket pitch tucked into
an island of three lanes at Laity Moor.
From here, it’s a mixture of back lanes
and gently swooping gravel bike lanes
marked as mining paths funnelling you
into the neck of a steep-sided, oakwooded SSSI valley to the pretty and
historically very important coastal village
of Portreath where this section ends.
Portreath
With a name that means sandy cove
in Cornish and a large prehistoric
settlement overlooking the village
above Nance Wood, Portreath
undoubtedly has a long history.
Tin mining and pilchard fishing were
the main trades in the medieval
period. By the early 19th century,
ships carrying copper ore from the
mines inland to Swansea for
smelting and returning with Welsh
coal for the pump engines had made
it Cornwall’s busiest port. A tramway
that connected the harbour to the
mainline uphill can still be seen, but
a cholera outbreak that tragically killed
half the population and the collapse
of the tin trade meant the port soon
lost importance.
It’s on the map again now, though,
thanks to its incredible sunsets across
a beach that’s popular with surfers
and birdwatchers, as well as those like
us enjoying the network of repurposed
mining trails on bike or foot.
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Coast to Coast
PART SIX
150m
100m
50m
0m
Cycling UK
0km
10km
20km
30km
39km
Part 6 – Coast to Coast
Portreath
to Marazion
Distance: 44km
200m
100m
0m
0km
20km
44km
Ascent: 699m
Highlights
Be aware
• Start and finish on different coasts
• Wildlife rescue centre
• Mining trails
• Panoramic views
• Mining archaeology
• Mining museum
• Shire horse museum
• Nature reserves
• Unspoilt villages
• Coastal towns
• Battleship shipwrecks
• St Michael's Mount
• The cycle path through the college at
Camborne will be busy with students
during term time
Navigation
You’ll be following a lot of the mining trail
signposts again on this part of the route,
particularly the Great Flat Lode Trail. Be
aware, though, that the signs change to
‘Public Bridleway’ or ‘Public Byway’ from
Treskillard. Even on the mining trails
there are a lot of junctions and bridging
sections of roads to keep your eye on.
This is made harder by the route snaking
around in every direction as it meanders
towards the St Erth crossover, so you
won’t be able to second guess where
it goes next purely by orientation.
After a lurch northwards at Wheal Alfred,
you start heading in a more predictable
south westerly direction, but a mix of
meandering back road and farm track
bridleway mean you’ll still need to pay
very close attention to your navigation.
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• The mining trails are unsurprisingly
popular with all sorts of users
including young families and horses,
so while the surface and flatness
potentially make them fast and
easy-rolling, please ride responsibly
and respectfully. The old mining trail
infrastructure will take you under
or over all the major roads, though
• The broad, multi-lane main road
junction at Camborne can be busy,
but there are cycle lanes and crossing
lights to help you get across safely
• The track up to Penberthy from
Trannack Farm is another ‘lost way’
route which changes status from
bridleway to footpath at the stream
at the bottom. They didn’t seem to
mind us riding when we forgot, but
hop off if you’re asked
• The short section of coast road
and the car park at Marazion can
be busy with traffic and pedestrians
wandering in all directions, so take
it easy into the finish
The final furlong is fairly simple,
contouring round Marazion Hill until
you can see St Michael’s Mount where
the West Kernow Way officially finishes.
There’s also a nice low-traffic route
if you need to get back into Penzance.
Part 6: Coast to Coast
Carn Brea Castle
Area introduction and route summary
The final section of the route is possibly
the most varied of all, with some wonderful
juxtapositions of old and new. Climbing
north steeply from the coast, you’ll swap
fishing boats and coves for a holiday
and wildlife park. Dipping in and out of
suburban Cornwall, you’ll roll past houses
of all ages and straight through a modern
college, but the stark remains of the
area’s mining past are everywhere.
From skyline chimneys to the tunnels
and bridges you’ll ride through and over,
the industrial history of this area is
almost inescapable.
We say almost, as the optional climb to
the top of Carn Brea will not only unlock
an incredible 360º view, but also take you
to an oasis of upland wildness. It’s a place
where Neolithic people settled around the
ancient rocks, 6th century saints visited
wells, elaborate ‘castle’ hunting lodges
sit on medieval chapel remains, and a
dramatic monument was built for a Baron.
Then you’re back into the thick of mining
action as engine houses and other
buildings fight to avoid drowning under
ivy and copses. While the gritty surface
will be familiar, the signs for mining trails
swap for bridleway and byway signs as you
head into the more rural landscape around
St Erth where you cross over the outward
leg of the journey. Then it’s pure agricultural
Penwith with tiny twisting lanes and farm
tracks heaving over short but leg-testing
hills, through a landscape of prehistoric
monuments and derelict mines returning
to nature. Then it’s the final swing around
Marazion hill (or you can go over the top
if you want to finish through the town itself)
before the final roll to St Michael’s Mount.
Part 6 is a mix of on and off-road riding but
there are no technical challenges, apart
from the shortcut up to the summit of Carn
Brea. While this section is relatively short,
it includes some steep hills, particularly
at the start, so pace yourself accordingly.
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Cycling UK
Portreath to Carn Brea
Make sure you have a good limber up
in Portreath as you’re climbing steeply
straight away. You roll under the bottom
end of the old incline used for hauling
wagons up to the main railway from the
harbour. You then switchback round past
a splendidly indulgent castle-style house,
and then it’s a steep crawl up through the
lush woodland alongside the incline on
a gravel track. Popping out at the top you
take a quick tour of the Feadon Wildlife
and Holiday Park complete with fancy
fountains and baby goats to be fussed.
If you fancy something a bit more bucolic,
you can divert west to loop through Tehidy
Country Park and then rejoin the route
at Tolvaddon.
Back lanes and suburban streets take
you to the hedged bridleway over the
A30 and then through the campus of the
local college. There’s a dodge across the
busy, broad main road at Pool and then
onto mining tracks travelling back in time
to when the many engine houses and
shafts were the noisy heart of Cornwall’s
mining heyday. The trails are still a great
way to glide through the area on gentle
gradients making the most of tunnels
Tehidy
Country Park
Once the country park
of the Basset family
who built the monument
and castle at Carn Brea,
Tehidy Country Park is
now a council-owned
oasis of paths and lakes
with a bridleway through
the centre that makes a
lovely bonus detour from
the West Kernow Way.
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and bridges to stay away from traffic, and
when you briefly pop out onto National
Cycle Network Route 3/The Great Flat
Lode Trail with Carn Brea on your right
shoulder, you’ll suddenly feel out in the
wilds again. There’s the option to take
a singletrack climb up to the summit to
enjoy an incredible panoramic view right
along the coast past St Ives, if your legs
haven’t had enough of what’s mostly
been a climb so far.
Tunnel near Portreath
Part 6: Coast to Coast
Great Flat Lode Trail
This 12km shared use trail
takes you on a loop around
Carn Brea from King Edward’s
Mine, roughly following the
route of a shallow tin seam
found in the area in 1860
just as local copper deposits
had been mined out.
Carn Brea
With its imposing position high above the
surrounding countryside, it’s no surprise
that the hilltop of Carn Brea has been
occupied several times, but it’s a more
sporadic settlement than you might expect.
Neolithic settlers cleared trees and built
two enclosures on the summit around
3700-3400 BC and used local rocks to
make stone axes for trading. Over 700 flint
arrowheads and the fact all the buildings
were burnt down suggests a bad end to
the occupation.
The site was reoccupied and refortified
in the Iron Age 500 BC. It continued to
be used for the next 1,000 years with
a hoard of gold coins from France and
Kent suggesting it was a high-status site.
A chapel was built in medieval times, but
Carn Brea ‘Castle’ is actually an 18th
century hunting lodge just made to look
like a castle. The same family also built
the large pillar monument on the hill which
can be seen from miles around.
Carn Brea has always had a magical/spiritual
side too. A cup and saucer-shaped rock on
the hill is called ‘the sacrificing stone’ and
St Euny’s Well has likely always been a sacred
site. Bonfires are still held on the summit as
part of a signalling tradition along the length
of the county.
One of the few surviving blue Ford Anglia
‘flying cars’ from Harry Potter was found
here after being stolen from a nearby film
studio too.
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Cycling UK
Carn Brea to Hayle
Dropping down from Carn Brea to Carnkie,
you pick up the Great Flat Lode Trail again.
You’ll be zooming along mostly flat or
slightly descending tracks through one
of the best-preserved sections of mining
landscapes on the route, where large
storage and working buildings, bathhouses
and several tall chimneyed engine houses
are all fighting to stay free of strangling
undergrowth. It’s this direct contrast and
interplay between moor and heathland
and such obvious industrial features that
makes this part of the trip so fascinating,
and a reflection of the two opposing
sides of Cornwall that create its unique
character. After visiting the King Edward
Mine Museum on our recce trip, we’ve
diverted the route right through it, as it’s
a fascinating resource with a great little
café in the Croust Hut.
The rise and fall of Cornish mining
The mining museum at King Edward Mine
near Troon is a great place to fully understand
the intense industrial past and technological
importance of this area, and get a glimpse
of the equipment and conditions of 19th
century mining. As brutal as it sounds, most
Cornish people chose to work in the mines
as the pay and conditions were better and
more consistent than working on farms.
‘Bal Maidens’ – the girls and women who
processed the ore on the surface – were
paid much more than they would have been
if they’d worked as servants. They could also
stay in their own homes with their families,
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and they were relatively well treated by the
mine owners especially if their husbands
were injured or died down the shafts.
Unfortunately, such dependence on
mining meant that as local lodes became
uneconomical and the mining rush in ‘new’
countries exploded, moving to other areas
– often North or South America, Africa, New
Zealand and Australia – was the only option
for many Cornish families. Interestingly,
the best way to track the emigration is by
seeing where pasties are considered a
local food speciality (Michigan, Montana
and parts of Wisconsin and California in
the US). Australia is even included in the
Protected Geographical Indication status
that otherwise forbids use of the name
‘Cornish pasty’ outside the county.
Part 6: Coast to Coast
From the mining museum, it’s a dramatic
shift from industrial Cornwall to agricultural
– the next museum is even dedicated to
shire horses – as you climb up and over
Copper Hill and the mining trails become
bridleways and byways. Ancient woods
and streams replace engine houses and
you’ll soon be spinning past the Neolithic
to Iron Age site of The Giant’s Quoit.
Recently excavated by archaeologists
and the local community, the collapsed
stones were also re-erected to return it
to its 5,000-year-old appearance on the
summer solstice of 2012.
Heading north past the old mine of
Barripper on idyllic, high-banked back
roads that you might have missed recently,
you’ll climb up and around another ancient
settlement at ‘The Hood’ before contouring
round the rich, rounded hills and jigsawpiece Celtic field shapes of the Polmenor
Downs, criss-crossing the main railway line
on old bridges as you go. You briefly rejoin
NCN Route 3 to pass the rare triple-aisled
church and manor house at Gwinear
before turning south through the farm on
Drannack Lane. Old mine shafts in hilltop
heathland, densely wooded stream valleys,
narrow lanes and gravel tracks couldn’t
feel more Cornish as you work your way
south of Hayle (or divert into it for snacks/
stopover/stroll on the beach purposes).
The final section of the
route is possibly the most
varied of all, with some
wonderful juxtapositions
of old and new.
Giant's Quoit
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Cycling UK
Hayle
Hayle’s position at the head of the Hayle
River on the south of St Ives Bay made
it an important sea port as far back as
the Neolithic period, with direct trading links
to Ireland, Wales and even eastern
Mediterranean Phoenician merchants
as local tin became a vital ingredient
in the development of the early Bronze
Age. An Iron Age settlement and then
a Roman fort overlooked the area,
and it became a centre for Christian
missionaries arriving in Cornwall with
several of the more famous local saints
all coming ashore at the Hayle estuary.
The area then largely vanishes from history
for about 1,200 years until tin smelters
start being built nearby and Welsh coal
starts being imported to power the mine
engines. That meant huge growth and
prosperity for the area for the next two
centuries and Hayle also became a centre
for dynamite manufacture. Unfortunately, it
was the local economy that imploded in the
20th century, but its local beaches, sand
dunes and World Heritage listed harbour
make it a rightfully popular holiday
destination. There’s a large supermarket
too for any supplies you need for your final
push across Penwith to the south coast.
Lost way section between Trannack and Penberthy Cross
A short stretch of path recorded as
a footpath connects the dead-end
road from Penberthy Cross (site of an
interesting former Wesleyan chapel) to
the path network East of the river Hayle,
(which forms the boundary between the
parishes of St Erth and St Hilary).
Early 19th century maps from both
parishes show strong evidence that this
was a through route in the past, with
Bartholemew’s mapping from the first half of
the 20th century even identifying the route
as a good surface for cycling. However, this
92
link was somehow omitted when parishes
recorded their rights of way in the 1950’s.
Cycling UK has submitted a claim for the
route to be recorded as restricted byway.
Part 6: Coast to Coast
Mount's Bay cycle path
Hayle to Marazion
As you head south, it’s time to start
really savouring the last part of your West
Kernow Way experience. We’re pretty sure
Cornwall will have worked its enchantment
on you by now but, after a few days’ riding,
it’s easy to become used to its idyllically
quiet gravel tracks and back lanes. The
rolling landscape where old industry and
ancient mystery overlap is unique and we
guarantee you’ll be wanting to return as
soon as you leave, so make the most
of the remaining kilometres.
While there are still some climbs and
descents to give well-worked legs and
brakes a squeeze, the landscape will
seem to relax with you. It’s less dramatic
than the wild moors of north Penwith or
the rugged coastlines of the Lizard, and
prehistory and mining remains are hinted
at rather than made monumental. That
leaves you plenty of headspace to reflect
on what a wonderful adventure you’ve had
through a remarkably diverse landscape
as you roll across your last gravel at
Truthwall and then briefly join the leafy back
lanes of NCN Route 3 through Gwallon.
After mere minutes on the last bit
of narrow lane past old whitewashed
farmhouses and bright gardens, Mount’s
Bay and Penlee Point come into view
ahead. Shortly afterwards, the iconic
part-time island of St Michael’s Mount
suddenly reveals itself just a kilometre
away to the south across the sea.
Don’t get too distracted as you cross the
coast road, though, as it can be busy and
the pavement on the far side is shared
between cyclists and pedestrians. The car
park can be a bit of a scrum too, but as
you push along the promenade towards
Marazion and the causeway to the Mount,
it’s hard to imagine a more memorable and
appropriately Cornish finish for an adventure
so rich in history and natural beauty.
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Cycling UK
St Michael’s Mount
St Michael’s Mount is a tiny but
fascinating place. It’s now a tidal island
that you can cross onto via a natural granite
causeway at low tide. Its old Cornish name
of Karrek Loos yn Koos, meaning ‘grey rock
in the woodland’, strongly suggests it was
still mainland when mankind arrived. The
remains of a fossilised forest can be seen
at really low tides.
While the stacked buildings on the
Mount mean there are no traces of early
settlement, there are traces of Iron Age
‘cliff castle’ fortification. The Mount is the
prime candidate for being considered as
‘Ictis’, the tin trading island mentioned
in histories written in the Mediterranean
area during the 1st century BC.
It became a monastery and a defended
site about 1,000 years later and continued
this dual spiritual and strategic role for
most of the next 1,000 years, regularly
being the site of sieges until the end
of the English Civil War.
It’s hard to imagine a more
memorable and appropriately
Cornish finish for an adventure
so rich in history and natural
beauty.
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The village at its base really started
prospering in the 18th century as a fishing
and trading port. The arrival of the railway
in Penzance made it a popular tourist
attraction and the castle was made more
fairytale in the 19th century, with an
underground railway from harbour to top
being added in 1900. Pillbox defences
were built in WWII but most of the Mount
was surrendered to the National Trust
in the 1950s. Its history makes it a
remarkable place to spend some time
too, so we’d definitely recommend a
visit as part of your Cornish adventure.
Part 6: Coast to coast
Mount's Bay
Marazion
The pretty town of Marazion overlooking St Michael’s Mount
has been a settlement since at least the Bronze Age when
local mining and smelting was taking place. According
to tax records, it was a far more important port than
Penzance well into the medieval period. The harbour and
toll road running through town meant it remained a key
part of Cornwall’s import/export and fishing trades for a
long time. Prussia Cove to the south was also infamous for
piracy and shipwrecks, claiming its last significant victim
when the massive battleship Warspite ran aground in a
storm on her way to being scrapped in Scotland in 1947.
Now it has a much more relaxed, visitor-based vibe, making
it a great place to relax for a bit after your West Kernow
Way adventure. There’s plenty of local accommodation too.
Gwelen – Conjuring up the Forest
While the West Kernow Way officially
finishes at St Michael’s Mount, you might
need a way to get back to Penzance.
Fortunately, the Mount’s Bay Coast Path
offers an easy, scenic route between the
two. Through the EXPERIENCE project, the
route has recently been resurfaced (due
to be completed in autumn 2021) and
includes new artwork from award-winning
artist Emma Smith.
Gwelen reimagines the ancient submerged
forest within Mount’s Bay, an enchanting
phenomenon that is occasionally uncovered
at very low tides. Made up of ‘seeing sticks’
along the path, the artwork creates the
impression of clusters of trees from which
to rest and collectively imagine. You are
invited to reflect on the hidden geologies,
entanglement of landscape and human
experience, climate emergency and power of
collective thought, to conjure up the forest.
Gwelen has been commissioned by
the EXPERIENCE project at Cornwall
Council and is co-funded by the European
Regional Development Fund (ERDF)
through the Interreg France (Channel)
England Programme under the Natural
and Cultural Heritage funding category.
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Cycling UK
Places and facilities
For places that are a slight detour from the West Kernow Way route,
the distance and ascent shown relate to the closest point on the route.
Distance from Distance
Ascent
start (km)
between (km) (m)
Penzance
0
0
0
Newlyn
3
3
21
Mousehole
6
3
32
Lamorna
10
4
123
Treen
16
7
146
Porthcurno
19
3
44
Sennen
26
7
126
Land's End
28
2
28
Land's End Youth Hostel (Cot Valley)
37
9
105
St Just
41
4
155
Botallack / The Count House
44
3
27
Zennor (3km off route)
57
13
220
St Ives / Carbis Bay (5km off route)
60
3
43
Lelant (3km off route)
65
5
38
Hayle (3km off route)
67
2
0
St Erth
69
2
23
Praa Sands (3km off route)
78
9
178
Porthleven
89
11
158
Helston (5km off route)
92
3
68
Mullion
100
8
201
Lizard
111
11
132
Lizard Point
112
1
0
Cadgwith
118
6
65
Coverack
129
11
190
Gweek
147
18
380
Helston (6km off route)
148
1
0
Constantine
153
5
197
Falmouth (8km off route)
156
3
130
Lanner
172
15
258
Redruth
173
1
25
Portreath
192
19
186
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Illogan
195
3
Camborne
198
3
31
Hayle (4km off route)
220
21
344
Marazion
236
16
231
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B&B/
Hotel
Hostels/
self-catering
Campsite
Pub/
Café
restaurant
Shop
Bike shop
Train
station
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Cycling UK
Suggested itineraries
Here are our suggested overnight stopping points to help you
plan your trip. For places which are a slight detour from the
main route, distances relate to the closest point on the route.
The total distance is 236km with 3999m of ascent.
Three nights – 60km per day
Distance from start (km)
Cumulative ascent (m)
St Ives (5km off route)
63
1070
Coverack
130
2123
Portreath
191
3299
Two nights – 80km per day (Option one)
Distance from start (km)
Cumulative ascent (m)
St Erth (or Hayle 3km off route)
70
1131
147
2503
Two nights – 80km per day (Option two)
Distance from start (km)
Cumulative ascent (m)
Helston (5km off route)
92
1535
173
3113
Gweek (or Helston 6km off route)
*
*
Redruth
The shape of the route
means it’s possible to stop in
Helston before or after riding
around the Lizard Peninsula,
which is why the distances
are different.
*
Through the EXPERIENCE project, Cycling UK has developed
Cycle Hubs in the Mount’s Bay area (Marazion and Penzance)
and Helston.
We are supporting hospitality businesses in these hub
locations and along the West Kernow Way route to become
accredited Cycle Friendly Places, so you know you will be
greeted with a warm welcome and everything you need.
cyclinguk.org/cyclefriendlyplaces
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Image credits
Front cover image by Jordan Gibbons/
Pannier.
Part 4
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except:
Contents page
All images by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK
except bottom right image by Jordan
Gibbons/Pannier.
p.59 by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK; p.60
Poldhu Point by Alamy; p.61 Mullion harbour
by Visit Cornwall; p.61 by Robert Pittman
(CC BY-ND 2.0); p.63 Lizard National Nature
Reserve by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.64
Lizard lighthouse by Tom Bastin (CC BY 2.0)
and bottom image by Stefan Amato/Pannier;
p.66 Cadgwith by Katherine Moore and
Coverack by John Such/Visit Cornwall;
p.68 Gweek by Judy Dean (CC BY 2.0) and
Goonhilly Earth Station by Adam Gibbard/Visit
Cornwall; p.70 seal sanctuary by Stuart
Richards (CC BY-ND 2.0) and Helford river
by Visit Cornwall; p.71 top image by Stefan
Amato/Pannier and Constantine church by
Tim Green (CC BY 2.0).
Introduction
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier or
Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except:
p.14 by Sam Jones/Cycling UK; p.18 fogou
by Andrew Bone (CC BY 2.0); p.19 cream tea
by Guy Kesteven.
Part 1
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except:
p.22 by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.23 top
image by Visit Cornwall; p.26 top image by
Robert Spanring/Cycling UK; p.27, Jubilee
Pool by Visit Cornwall; p.29, top image
courtesy of Porthcurno Museum of Global
Communications and bottom image by Visit
Cornwall; p.30 top image by Robert Spanring/
Cycling UK; p.31 Cornish chough by Mike
Prince (CC BY 2.0).
Part 2
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier or
Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except:
p.34 by Katherine Moore; p.36 Land’s End
Youth Hostel by Philip Halling (CC BY-SA 2.0);
p.39, St Just by Ed Webster (CC BY 2.0) and
Levant Engine House by Katherine Moore;
p.40 Tinners Way by Katherine Moore; p.42
Trencrom Hill by John Stratford (CC BY 2.0).
Part 3
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except:
p.48 by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK; p.50
Tregonning Hill by Laurie Cate (CC BY 2.0);
p.51 Godolphin House by Tim Green (CC BY
2.0).
Part 5
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except:
p.78 fogou by Andrew Bone (CC BY 2.0);
p.79 by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.80 by
Katherine Moore; p.81 Portreath by Tom
Bastin (CC BY 2.0) and Gwennap Pit by Tim
Green (CC BY 2.0); p.82 historic tin mine
postcard by Unknown; p.83 top image by
Katherine Moore and bottom image by
Robert Spanring/Cycling UK.
Part 6
All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier
or Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except:
p.88, top image by Guy Kesteven and Tehidy
Country Park by Darren Shilson (CC BY 2.0);
p.89 top image by Guy Kesteven and main
image by Tim Green (CC BY 2.0); p.91 top
image by Guy Kesteven and Giant’s Quoit
by Jim Champion (CC BY-SA 2.0); p.92 Hayle
by Ben Sutherland (CC BY 2.0).
Back pages
p.97 top image by Robert Spanring/Cycling
UK and other images by Jordan Gibbons/
Pannier; p.98 by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier.
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Cycling UK
Afterword
Imagine being able to cycle the length and breadth of the
country on connected off-road trails, through fascinating
places and amazing landscapes.
As the UK’s cycling charity, Cycling UK
is working to make this a reality by
campaigning for wider off-road access
for cycling and developing new longdistance trails to link existing routes.
We started with the North Downs Way
riders’ route, and followed that up with
the Great North Trail and King Alfred’s
Way. The West Kernow Way is the
next step on that journey.
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About the author
Guy Kesteven has been exploring historic England by bike ever since
his mum used to stick him in his child seat along with the groceries
for trips into York. A qualified and time-served archaeologist, he’s
stayed amongst mud on a daily basis as a professional bike tester
for leading global websites and magazines. He also has his own
YouTube channel GuyKesTV where you can find a rough guide to
the West Kernow Way filmed during the creation of this guidebook.
"Rocky coastal bridleways yielding cove after cove, towering
relics of Cornwall’s rich mining history and ancient, lost
rights of way; the West Kernow Way marvellously pieces
together West Cornwall’s history and culture with sublime
off-road tracks and tranquil country lanes."
Katherine Moore, Unpaved podcast
"Cycling the West Kernow Way is a deep dive into the majestic
landscape and the rich cultural history of this exquisite part
of Britain. The riding, on lanes lined with fern banks and
on byways across breathtaking moors, is challenging and
rewarding in equal measure."
Rob Penn, journalist and author of It’s All About the Bike
"The West Kernow Way is a perfect cocktail of steep hills, quiet
coastal villages, beautiful gravel trails and colourful Cornish
countryside. This route certainly ticks all the boxes when
it comes to experiencing the best of West Cornwall!"
Vedangi Kulkarni, youngest woman to cycle around the world
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