Jewelry Essentials 1. Jewelry and Jewelry Sales 2. Selling Rings 3. Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins 4. Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry 5. Watches and Giftware 6. Serving and Building Your Clientele 6/2019 Jewelry Essentials Assignment 1 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Assignment 2 Selling Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Assignment 3 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins . . . . . 75 Assignment 4 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry . . . . 103 Assignment 5 Watches and Giftware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Assignment 6 Serving and Building Your Clientele. . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 For Further Reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 © ©2019 The Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved: Protected under the Berne Convention. No part of this work may be copied, reproduced, transferred, or transmitted in any form or by any means whatsoever without the express written permission of GIA. Printed in the United States. Welcome to Jewelry Essentials! This course is your introduction to the wonderful world of jewelry. With the knowledge you gain from this course, you’ll be able to: • Discuss the qualities of gold, platinum, and silver that make them ideal for jewelry use • Explain the main jewelry manufacturing methods • Recognize a wide variety of ring, necklace, bracelet, earring, and brooch styles • Identify the characteristics of jewelry from different style periods and display a general knowledge of designer and branded jewelry Cover photos (top to bottom): Alexandra Hart/ Ralph Gabriner Maha Tannous/GIA Public Domain Robert Weldon/GIA Valerie Power/GIA iStockphoto • Demonstrate basic knowledge about the workings and operation of a timepiece and identify the watch types found at different market levels • Advise customers about the care and cleaning of their jewelry purchases • Use product knowledge along with features and benefits to sell jewelry ethically with full disclosure Jewelry and Jewelry Sales 1 Jewelry Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Features and Benefits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Precious Metals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Precious Metal Characteristics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Workability, Durability, and Metal Memory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Fineness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Gold Alloys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Platinum and Palladium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Silver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Alternative Jewelry Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Alternative Metals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Precious Metal Regulation and Quality Marks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Regulations in the US . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Regulations in Britain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Regulations in Italy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Regulations in Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Marking and Selling Plated Goods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Manufacturing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Jewelry Categories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Jewelry Manufacturing Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Hand Fabrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Lost-Wax Casting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Die Striking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Electroforming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Machining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Introduction to Jewelry Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Seven Steps of a Sale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 The Jewelry Industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 What’s to Come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Questions for Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 1 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 1. With the knowledge you gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to: • Discuss the qualities of gold, platinum, and silver that make them desirable for jewelry use. • Recognize international precious metal regulations and use of quality marks. • Explain the main jewelry manufacturing methods. 2 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Eric Welch/GIA A store window displays a wealth of precious jewelry. This course will help you navigate your clients successfully through the many choices the world of jewelry provides. Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Flynn’s Jewelers is on the square in a small town within sight of the Rocky Mountains. It’s located in a cluster of small shops that give the town its unique character. Late one morning, a teenage girl approaches from the sidewalk, focused on the jewelry in the window. She walks from the window to the door. A little bell jingles as she enters. “Good morning Mr. Flynn,” the girl calls to the owner, who is standing behind a counter at the rear of the store. “Why, good morning Darlene. How’s the family?” Mr. Flynn replies cheerily. Darlene’s family has been coming to Mr. Flynn’s jewelry store since Darlene was a baby. “Everybody’s fine,” Darlene replies. “Glad to hear it! Well, what brings you to town today?” says Mr. Flynn. “I’ve come to spend my birthday money,” Darlene replies. 3 Jewelry Essentials “Sounds like fun. What do you have your eye on?” asks Mr. Flynn. “A gold chain like the ones in the window,” Darlene replies. “Those are real gold,” he says. “Can your birthday money cover that?” “Sure,” Darlene replies. “My grandparents and my mom and dad all gave me money. They said I can spend it any way I want, so here I am.” “Well, I’m happy to help,” Mr. Flynn says. “And I have plenty of gold chains. Let’s take a look over here.” He comes out from behind the counter and leads Darlene to a display case on his right. “If you show me the styles you like, I’ll bring them out so you can try them on.” After looking over the selection, she chooses a few of the chains to try on. Mr. Flynn takes them out one at a time and watches as she drapes each one around her neck. After trying on a few different chains and checking her reflection in the mirror, Darlene nods and smiles. “This one is just right,” she says. “I like it because it’s not too delicate and not too clunky.” She fastens the chain around her neck again and swivels slightly as she looks at it in the mirror. “We learned about gold in science class. Is this pure gold?” “It’s actually 14-karat gold,” Mr. Flynn replies. “That means 14 out of 24 parts are pure gold, and the rest is silver and copper. The other metals make the gold stronger and harder, and reduce its cost.” “It still looks like gold and shines like gold,” Darlene says. “And the price is just right, too. I’ll take it. But don’t bother wrapping it. I want to wear it right now!” Mr. Flynn removes the price tag, rings up the sale, and wishes Darlene a happy birthday. She thanks him and leaves the store wearing her new gold chain, proud and beaming. Jewelry Basics n What two pieces of information should you know about the jewelry you sell? n What are the properties and uses of precious metals? n What are some alternative jewelry materials? Even before people began recording their own history, they were adorning themselves with jewelry. When archeologists excavate humanity’s earliest settlements, they often find jewelry items among the artifacts. Shutterstock Gifts of jewelry mark milestones in peoples’ lives. As a jewelry sales professional, you’re ideally positioned to help your customers choose the right jewelry to celebrate their special occasions. Selling jewelry makes you part of some of the happiest and most exciting moments in people’s lives. Jewelry’s beauty attracts attention and, like nice clothes, it feels good to wear. It also helps people express their individuality. As a jewelry salesperson, you help people choose the jewelry that’s right for them. They benefit from your interaction because they leave your store with just the right piece. This course contains the basic product information and sales techniques you need to sell more jewelry and to advance in your chosen career. Each assignment contains information you can put to use immediately, no matter what your position in the jewelry industry. 4 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Andy Lucas/GIA Artisans from long-ago civilizations prized precious metals for their unique ability to be shaped into intricate designs. Vianna Joias The bold colors of the gems in these stylish rings complement the sleek precious metal mountings. Vianna Joias The color, texture, and sparkle of gemstones and jewelry metals provide infinite possible combinations that allow the wearer to express her individuality. 5 Jewelry Essentials 1 WilsonValentin/iStockphoto This diamond ring provides a unique combination of rarity and lasting value. The main diamond is large and beautifully fashioned, giving it dazzling interaction with light. KEY CONCEPTS To sell jewelry, you must know its features and be able to explain the importance of those features to your customer. Vianna Joias This necklace features topaz gems in autumn colors that complement the delicate yellow gold mounting as well as the wearer’s skin tone. The necklace’s design allows them to shimmer and sparkle as she moves. Features and Benefits Feature—A characteristic or part of a piece of jewelry. Benefit—The value a feature holds for a customer. To sell jewelry, you must know its features and be able to explain their importance to your customer. A feature is a characteristic or part of the jewelry. What that feature does for the customer is called its benefit. A benefit can be aesthetic, psychological, or practical. Each feature has at least one benefit. Features can also work together to create a combination of benefits. For example, most people know that jewelry-quality diamonds are rare. They’re also so hard that they can be scratched only by other diamonds. They also have their own unique, sparkling interaction with light. These are some of diamonds’ features. Diamond rarity’s corresponding benefit is shared by other luxury products: It contributes to the gem’s financial value, which offers diamond wearers prestige and status. Diamond’s hardness-related benefit is durability, which allows diamonds to retain their beauty and value over time. Sparkle catches the eye and makes diamonds aesthetically appealing. 6 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Eric Welch/GIA The bright reddish metal in these earrings is copper. Copper is much less rare than gold and, unlike that metal, its shine will dull with age. Robert Weldon/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Gold is a versatile metal that can be manufactured into all styles of jewelry. The pewter forming this rose brooch is a mixture of base metals that includes tin and copper. Base metals are much more common than precious metals and lack their special properties. Precious Metals The metals most often used in jewelry—gold, platinum, and silver—are called the precious metals, and they’re appealing whether they’re used alone or to complement the gems in a piece. (Palladium—a metal with properties similar to platinum—is also considered by many to be a precious metal.) The physical properties of precious metals make them ideal for use in jewelry and often distinguish them from non-precious metals, called base metals, such as copper, zinc, tin, nickel, lead, and iron. Precious metals—Metals valued in jewelry, specifically gold, platinum, and silver. Base metals—Non-precious metals such as copper, zinc, tin, nickel, lead, and iron. Heft—The weight or heaviness of an object compared to its size. Precious Metal Characteristics Each precious metal has its own unique characteristics, but they share certain qualities that make them excellent jewelry metals. Those qualities are allure, rarity, workability, and durability. Their allure comes from their heft, color, and luster. Heft is what makes jewelry made of gold, silver, or platinum feel heavy for its size and gives jewelry a sturdy and stable feel. Luster—The appearance of a material’s surface in reflected light. 7 Jewelry Essentials 1 Al Clayton/PNI/Allstock As anyone who pans for gold knows, it takes hours—sometimes days—of labor to coax a very small amount of gold from its surroundings. The same is true of all precious metal mining methods. Jeffrey Scovil Gold is one of the three precious metals used in jewelry. This naturally formed gold nugget was found in Placer, California. KEY CONCEPTS Precious metals’ allure, rarity, workability, and durability make them excellent for use in jewelry. James L. Amos/Corbis This shiny bar of platinum weighs only 50 grams. Behind it is a 50-ton pile representing the amount of ore required to produce 50 grams of platinum. 8 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Gold is a bright and sunny yellow. Platinum and silver are both considered white metals by the trade, even though platinum’s rich gray-white looks quite different from silver’s gleaming white. But both are neutral in color, which means they can complement any gemstone. After color, one of the things people admire most about precious metals is their luster, or the way they reflect light. Silver is especially dazzling. Polished pure silver shines more brightly than any other metal on earth. More than 90 percent of the light that strikes it is reflected back to the observer’s eye. KEY CONCEPTS Precious metals are expensive because they’re rare and difficult to extract from the earth. Gold’s beautiful luster is what attracted people to it in the first place. It creates a rich background for the sparkle of beautiful gems. Platinum, too, glimmers alluringly in the light, a perfect complement to diamonds, pearls, and colored stones. Polished platinum’s luster can change over time, becoming softer and richer and achieving a subtle, enchanting glow called patina. Patina—Soft, rich surface appearance that develops with age. The beauty of a precious metal’s luster depends largely on how well it’s polished. All other things being equal, the better the polish, the higher the luster. You can see this in a highly polished gold wedding band that glows like an ember. Precious metals are expensive because they’re rare and difficult to extract from the earth. Gold is the rarest. It makes up only about four parts per billion of the earth’s crust. Platinum is less rare, at about five parts per billion, and silver is next, at about 75 parts per billion. To put these quantities in perspective, iron makes up about 5.6 percent—about six parts per hundred—of the earth’s crust. Since iron is relatively common and easy to extract, it’s inexpensive. Alexandra Hart/Adam Bujnowski Even with a matte finish, the silver that makes up this one-of-a-kind necklace is strikingly reflective. 9 Jewelry Essentials 1 GIA Silver, like the ancient silver coins set in this gold necklace, will slowly tarnish, or discolor, when exposed to sulfur compounds in the air. Costantino Rota Precious metals can be formed into intricate designs that are strong and retain their shape. With care, this gold necklace might last many generations. Malleable—Able to be shaped or bent without breaking. Ductile—Able to be drawn into wire or hammered into sheets without breaking. Durable—Long-lasting, especially without sustaining damage or wear. Corrosion—Deterioration by a chemical action. Tarnish—A mild form of corrosion caused by contact with chemical elements or compounds in the environment. 10 Workability, Durability, and Metal Memory Most jewelry metals are workable, which means jewelry makers can fashion them into almost any shape, and they retain that shape. A workable metal is both malleable and ductile. Malleable metals can be shaped or bent without breaking. Ductile metals can be drawn into wire or hammered into sheets. All three precious metals are both malleable and ductile, gold more so than platinum and silver. Gold, silver, and platinum are also durable, meaning they’re strong and long-wearing. They’re resistant to impact, too. They also resist corrosion, meaning they stand up well when they’re exposed to chemicals in the environment. Silver does tarnish, however. Tarnish is a mild form of corrosion. A disadvantage that makes base metals unsuitable for jewelry use is that they don’t resist corrosion very well. Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Alexandra Hart/Ralph Gabriner Gold’s malleable nature means craftsmen can shape it into spectacular designs. Shane McClure/GIA Shutterstock GIA These gold artifacts are from a historical shipwreck that was submerged for many years in seawater. Because of gold’s durability and corrosion resistance, they seem as good as new. A subtle bloom of tarnish clouds the shine of this silver. Gentle cleaning with the appropriate polish will soon restore its appearance. This item is marked to indicate its gold content. The “750” means that there are 750 parts per thousand of gold in the alloy. If a metal has “metal memory,” it tends to return toward its previous shape. Of the three precious metals, platinum has the least metal memory. Once platinum is bent, it tends to stay in position. This lack of metal memory means that platinum has superior holding power. Gold and silver have more metal memory than platinum. Fineness Fineness is a measure of a precious metal’s purity, and it’s based on parts per thousand. A metal that rates 1,000 is described as fine, or pure. This means it has virtually no impurities, and it’s not mixed with another metal. If a precious metal is 75 percent pure, its fineness is 750. A precious metal that’s stamped “950” is very nearly pure. Fineness—A measure of the purity of a precious metal. Technically, there’s no such thing as a fine precious metal. Every sample has at least some impurities or is deliberately blended with another metal or metals to form an alloy. Alloy—A mixture of two or more metals. Fine—Virtually free of impurities or alloying metals. 11 Jewelry Essentials 1 ZDNY and Co. Inc. The rich buttery color of these gold rings hints at the purity of the metal they’re fashioned from—almost pure 24K gold. The metal creates a striking contrast against the transparent gems mounted in each piece. R. Politi and D. Grieco Shutterstock The maker of this necklace used the ancient art of granulation to add special texture to the burnished metal. This substantial piece would feel weighty around the wearer’s neck. An array of gold items glitters like the burnished sun at a store in Dubai’s gold market. One of gold’s most alluring properties is its rich color. KEY CONCEPTS Gold’s appeal derives mostly from its color, luster, rarity, and resistance to corrosion. Gold Gold’s appeal comes mostly from its color, luster, rarity, and resistance to corrosion. Gold is highly workable, so it can be used for many shapes and styles of jewelry. It lasts a long time and retains its value. Its substantial heft is related to its density. Gold is more than 19 times as dense as water. This means it would take more than 19 times the volume of water to weigh the same as one ounce of gold. This gives gold a very substantial feel. Gold is also appealing and exciting to the eye. Customers who are particularly attracted to and excited by color often choose gold rather than silver or platinum. Gold Alloys Gold is often the choice of customers who are particularly attracted to and excited by color. 12 Alloying gold increases its tensile strength and hardness. Tensile strength is the maximum stretching force a metal can withstand before breaking. When used to describe a metal, hardness refers to how well the metal Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Valerie Power/GIA This necklace gets its unique and striking appearance from a blend of different colored gold alloys. Chimento Each of these 18K gold bracelets is alloyed to give it a different color. The type and quantity of alloying metals determine the color of the karat gold, causing the bracelets to be rose, white, and yellow. KEY CONCEPTS Alloying gold increases its tensile strength and hardness and makes it less expensive. GIA & Tino Hammid GIA & Tino Hammid Gold articles made in the US usually have a quality mark and the manufacturer’s trademark. The best protection against underkarating is to buy only gold jewelry that’s stamped this way. The 18K mark on this jewelry piece means the same as the 750 designation. 18K means that 18 parts out of 24 in the alloy are gold. "Verdura" is the maker's trademark. resists scratching and denting. Alloying can also lower gold’s melting point, which reduces its cost. These factors broaden gold’s appeal by making it easier for jewelers to work with, increasing its durability, and bringing it within reach of more buyers. In the US and most other countries, people use the term karat to state gold’s fineness, which is based on parts out of 24. This means that pure gold is 24 parts gold—or 24-karat gold. Gold that’s 75 percent pure—18 parts gold and six parts an alloying metal or metals—is 18-karat gold. Fourteen-karat gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts another metal or metals. “K” is the abbreviation for karat, so you’ll often see gold jewelry stamped 14K or 18K. In the US, 14K is the most popular jewelry gold alloy. Tensile strength—Maximum stretching force a metal can withstand before breaking. Hardness—How well a metal resists scratching and denting. Karat—A unit of measure for the fineness of gold, based on a total of 24 parts, abbreviated “K.” Don’t confuse “karat” with the term “carat,” a measure of gem weight. People in some countries spell both terms with a “c.” 13 Jewelry Essentials 1 Karats and their Equivalents Karat (gold only) 10K 14K 18K 24K Percentage of precious metal 41.7% 58.3% 75% 99.99% Parts per thousand 417 583 750 999 Verbal equivalent 10 parts gold, 14 parts other metals by weight 14 parts gold, 10 parts other metals by weigh 18 parts gold, 6 parts other metals by weight 24 parts gold Ingredients of Typical Gold Alloy Colors 14K Yellow Gold, copper, silver, zinc 18K Yellow Gold, copper, silver, zinc Green Gold, copper, silver (amount of silver increased) Rose (pink) Gold, copper, silver (amount of copper increased) White Gold, nickel or palladium, copper, zinc Stuller Because of its hardness, alloyed gold can take on a very high polish. In the US, the most popular gold alloy used in jewelry is 14K. The alloy always contains 58.5 percent gold, but the proportions of other metals— usually silver and copper—vary. In other countries, 8K, 9K, 10K, 18K, and 22K to 24K gold are popular for jewelry. Increasing the percentages of the other metals in gold alloys can result in customized colors. Varying amounts of copper can give gold a rose or even reddish color. Increasing the silver in a gold alloy can give it a green color, and nickel and palladium can whiten it. 14 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Valerie Power/GIA Platinum prongs retain their strength over time, making them ideal for holding valuable gems like diamonds. Platinum Guild International Joel Beeson/GIA Platinum is usually alloyed with other platinum group metals for use in jewelry. This creates a stronger metal than platinum alone and makes pieces like this platinum and diamond necklace possible. The designation “Plat.” on this band indicates that it consists of 950 parts or more of pure platinum. Platinum and Palladium Platinum is almost as ductile as gold and silver, but it’s harder to scratch than either. It dents more easily than gold but it’s harder to dent than silver. Platinum takes a high polish, and it’s highly resistant to tarnish. It’s a little denser than gold and more than twice as dense as silver. Its density gives it strength and a heavier feel than the other metals. It’s also less brittle than gold alloy, so platinum prongs are less likely to break. This combination of properties gives platinum durability and makes it an excellent jewelry metal. KEY CONCEPTS Platinum is highly resistant to tarnish, takes a high polish, and is harder to scratch than gold and silver. Most platinum rates 900 or 950 on the fineness scale. The other 50 or 100 parts in a platinum alloy are often another platinum group metal, usually iridium or ruthenium, added to increase hardness. Cobalt and copper are other metals commonly used in platinum alloys. Palladium is a silvery white metal that has recently become popular with jewelry consumers. Platinum is sometimes plated with rhodium to give it a whiter finish. Plating involves covering a metal with a thin coating of another metal, using an electrical or mechanical process. Plating a metal can protect its surface, enhance its appearance, or change its color. Plating—Depositing a metal coating electrically or applying it mechanically onto another metal. Like platinum, palladium is a lustrous silvery white metal. The two metals have similar properties, but palladium is not as dense as platinum. It’s been used in jewelry since the 1930s, but has caught on with consumers only recently. Palladium can be alloyed with gold to produce white gold, but the alloy is more expensive than conventional alloys using nickel and silver. 15 Jewelry Essentials 1 Valerie Power/GIA Tiffany & Co. These antique silver tribal bracelets from India have tarnished over time. These polished silver cuffs show off that metal’s amazing reflectivity. Valerie Power/GIA Rio Grande Tiffany & Co. These two silver rings show the contrast between a tarnished surface and one that’s been recently cleaned. Sterling silver jewelry like these rings can provide the white-metal look, but still be more affordable than platinum and white gold. Sterling silver is by far the most popular silver alloy in the world. It’s used in these bow and shell designs, which are accented with rubies and sapphires. Silver KEY CONCEPTS Silver’s bright, white shine and workability are its principal assets for use in jewelry. Silver’s bright, white shine and workability are its principal assets for jewelry use. Pure silver is too soft to be practical for jewelry, so it’s usually mixed with a small amount of copper. Copper hardens silver without taking away its brilliant shine. Sterling silver is by far the most popular silver alloy in jewelry. It’s defined as being 925 parts silver and 75 parts copper. To be called “silver” in the US, an alloy must be at least 92.5 percent silver. Silver is about half as dense as either gold or platinum. What silver lacks in heft, it makes up for in shine. Sulfur in air reacts with silver to form silver sulfide, a common tarnish that can be removed with commercial silver polishes. Electroplating—Using electricity to deposit a coating of precious metal, suspended in a solution, on another metal. 16 Silver gilt, also called vermeil, is a thin surface coating of gold on silver. The original process used mercury, a highly toxic element. Modern vermeil is created by electroplating, which uses electricity to activate the gilding process. Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Valerie Power/GIA Etienne Perret Etienne Perret This pendant uses iridescent shell as a backdrop for a blue topaz. The pendant hangs from a silk cord rather than a precious metal chain. Black ceramic provides an arresting background for colored diamonds. The diamonds in this bracelet and ring are set into the ceramic with precious metals. Some designers have started using ceramics in their jewelry collections. This ring combines a peach-colored cultured pearl with a pink ceramic band. Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA These attractive necklaces combine rubber cords, manmade glass, and beautiful Australian cultured pearls for an eclectic look. Beautiful cultured pearls with gold accents are suspended from thick bands of rubber. The contrast between the pearls, the precious metals, and the rubber’s texture is striking. Alternative Jewelry Materials Many contemporary jewelry designers choose alternative materials for their designs. Non-metallic materials include rubber, silk, and leather or leather-like imitations. The rubber used in jewelry is almost always black cord of various diameters. You’ll see it in bracelets, necklaces, and rings, often in combination with metals and gems. Black rubber used with highly polished silver is particularly striking. Braided leather and leather-like imitations are also often used as cord in bracelets and necklaces. Woven silk is used as necklace cord and in wide bracelets with jeweled clasps. You’ll also see watchband-like leather bracelets with clasps that combine gems and precious metals. The bright blue and purple shanks of these pearl rings are made of rubber. The rubber runs through a precious metal mounting that secures the pearls. 17 Jewelry Essentials 1 Alternative Metals Many modern jewelry designs are made of alternative metals such as tungsten, titanium, niobium, and stainless steel. Tungsten is especially popular for rings. The metal is blended with carbon and a bonding metal, usually cobalt, to form tungsten carbide. Because it’s extremely hard, tungsten carbide takes and retains a high polish. It’s dark gray and highly resistant to scratching. One ring maker promotes tungsten carbide rings as being “permanently polished.” Tungsten carbide is about 15 times denser than water. That makes it about 75 percent as dense as gold and platinum, and 50 percent denser than silver. While tungsten carbide has good heft, it’s not easy to work, so its jewelry uses are limited. Jewelry makers sometimes use pure titanium or a titanium alloy. These materials are lightweight but very strong. Titanium is only about half as dense as silver, so it doesn’t have the heft of the precious metals. It’s silvergray in color and often polished or brushed. Pure titanium is hypoallergenic, meaning it won’t cause allergic reactions or skin discoloration. It’s often used for pierced earrings and other body jewelry. It resists scratching about as well as 14K gold. Alloying titanium with small amounts of aluminum and vanadium increases its durability and scratch resistance. Titanium is difficult if not impossible to work, so jewelry pieces must be mechanically cut, shaped, and assembled. Because the pure metal is difficult to extract and manufacturing is labor intensive, titanium jewelry is priced in the same range as precious metal jewelry. Niobium is popular with custom jewelry designers and manufacturers because it’s easy to work with and to color. Niobium can’t be soldered— it’s joined with rivets or tiny screws—but its workability is comparable to silver’s. In fact, any item a jewelry maker can create with gold, silver, or platinum, he or she can create with niobium. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA The white metal in this man’s ring is titanium. It’s a difficult metal to work with so items manufactured of titanium are expensive. The iridescent colors of this niobium necklace show it’s been anodized. Although other metals like titanium can also show the same finish, niobium is much easier to work with. 18 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Harold & Erica Van Pelt Eric Welch/GIA This flower brooch is set with 33 carats of purple sapphires, red spinels, and diamonds. Although it’s a large piece, it’s fashioned of titanium, making it lightweight and very wearable. This flexible necklace is made from gold-colored stainless steel. The necklace is designed to be formed into different shapes by the wearer. Because niobium is hypoallergenic, it’s popular for body-piercing jewelry. It’s almost as dense as silver, so while it doesn’t have the heft of gold or platinum, it feels more substantial than titanium. Niobium is also much harder to scratch than any of the precious metals and much harder to dent than silver and platinum. It’s also extremely resistant to corrosion. Niobium, tungsten, and titanium can be heated or anodized to produce brilliant colors. Anodizing is an electrochemical process that results in a protective or decorative coating on metal. Anodized niobium colors include navy blue, light blue, yellow, rose, bronze, pink, magenta, midnight blue, and various greens. The color is so vivid that many people think it’s enamel. Anodizing—An electrochemical process that results in a protective or decorative coating on metal. Stainless steel is an alloy. Its composition varies with its purpose, but to be called stainless steel it must be at least 10.5 percent chromium. The presence of chromium creates an invisible surface film that resists oxidation. Most stainless steel alloys are strong and ductile, and all are corrosion resistant. The stainless steel alloy used to make jewelry is composed of iron, chromium, and nickel. It’s more scratch resistant than any of the three precious metals, but exceeds only silver in its resistance to denting. It also takes a high polish. 19 Jewelry Essentials 1 Vianna Joias This necklace features topaz gems in autumn colors that complement the delicate yellow gold mounting as well as the wearer’s skin tone. The necklace’s design allows them to shimmer and sparkle as she moves. KEY CONCEPTS Most countries have stringent standards governing the use of precious metals in jewelry. Quality mark—A stamp that indicates the purity of a precious metal. Precious Metal Regulation and Quality Marks n What do quality marks reveal about a jewelry item? n How do trademarks protect retailers? n What factors determine the marks stamped on plated goods? This section reveals how precious metals are regulated, marked, and tested. This basic information will help you assess the quality of the merchandise you sell. It will also allow you to confidently explain quality marks to your customers. The idea of quality marking originated in ancient Egypt and Rome, where they often used official marks to indicate the purity of precious metal bars. By the fourteenth century, the practice of marking precious metals with official government-required stamps had spread throughout Europe. In 1363, England’s King Edward III decreed that all precious metal items be tested and stamped for purity by the goldsmiths’ guild. Today, precious metal regulations vary from country to country. Negative tolerance—the difference between the fineness stated on the quality mark and the actual fineness of the precious metal—is one area where there are differences between countries. 20 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales The US permits a difference of 3 parts per thousand (ppt) on unsoldered items and 7 ppt on soldered items. This means that a soldered 18K (750 ppt) gold ring can actually be as low as 743 ppt (750 minus 7) and still be called 18K. Denmark, Finland, Great Britain, Hungary, Italy, Switzerland, and Turkey have some of the strictest requirements, and do not permit even the slightest negative tolerance. Germany, on the other hand, has one of the most lenient standards. The difference can be as much as 10 ppt less than the quality mark indicates. Regulations in the US In the US, standards are established through a joint effort of government and industry. The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is responsible for interpreting and administering federal laws governing trade and encouraging compliance with legally established fair trade practices. With input from the jewelry trade, the FTC periodically issues guidelines for conduct within the industry. The publication is known as Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries. Government, consumers, and industry organizations can sue manufacturers and retailers that violate the guidelines. The FTC designed them to evolve as new technologies and practices emerge. In the US, if a jewelry item is stamped with a quality mark, it must also have a registered trademark to identify the manufacturer. In fact, the best way for a jeweler to protect against underkarating fraud is to buy only trademarked and quality-stamped jewelry. This won’t completely protect a jeweler from legal action, but articles marked with registered trademarks are easily traced, so they’re less likely to be misrepresented. Joel Beeson/GIA This silver bracelet is marked with the manufacturer’s trademark. The “sterling” stamp means it’s at least 92.5 percent pure silver. Trademark—A word, phrase, logo, symbol, or design that’s registered to identify the manufacturer of an item. Underkarating—Misrepresenting the precious metal content of a jewelry item. KEY CONCEPTS In the US, a registered trademark must accompany a quality mark. The best way for a jeweler to protect against underkarating fraud is to buy only registered trademarked and quality stamped gold jewelry. In the US, the FTC administers federal fair trade practices. The full text of their Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries can be found through the FTC’s Web site at www.ftc.gov. 21 Jewelry Essentials 1 The marking of US-manufactured jewelry varies with the jewelry metal. Gold must be marked with the karatage and the manufacturer’s trademark. Using the word “gold” alone when you describe an item that’s not made entirely of 24K gold is a violation of the guidelines. Silver can be stamped “silver” or “sterling silver” only if it contains at least 925 ppt (92.5 percent) of pure silver. “Coin silver” must contain at least 900 ppt (90.0 percent) of pure silver. Platinum quality marks are based on the number of parts per thousand of pure platinum in the alloy. The FTC states that it’s a violation to use the word “platinum” alone unless the article contains at least 950 ppt (95.0 percent) of pure platinum. Typically, platinum jewelry sold in the US contains at least 90 percent pure platinum. If an item is 950 parts or more of pure platinum, it can be marked platinum, plat., or pt. without stating the exact amount of platinum or the name of the metal used as an alloy. If it’s between 850 and 950 parts, the mark must include the number of parts per thousand of platinum, but doesn’t have to list the alloying metals. If a platinum alloy is at least 500 parts pure platinum, it must be marked with the parts per thousand of pure platinum, followed by the parts per thousand of each alloying metal (for example, 800Plat.200Irid. for an item alloyed with iridium). An item that contains less than 500 parts platinum can’t be stamped with the word or any abbreviation for platinum. You can view the FTC jewelry guidelines at: www.ftc.gov Regulations in Britain Britain’s strict quality assurance requires that every article of gold, silver, and platinum with a quality mark be assayed by one of four governmentcontrolled offices. The regulators recently added palladium to this list. This means that the fineness mark on any precious metal article manufactured in Britain, including palladium, is verifiable. British assay offices have the final word on whether a precious metal object meets the standard. Any British-made article that fails to meet the standard at the time of assay is crushed and returned to the manufacturer. Imported articles that fail the test are also returned to the importer or manufacturer. British Hallmarking Council Hallmarks are sometimes used to commemorate special events. This British Silver Jubilee Mark was used in 1977 to celebrate the 25th year of Queen Elizabeth II’s reign. It was an optional stamp on silver articles that weighed 15 grams or more. Because of their rarity, special hallmarks like this can increase the value of the articles they are stamped on. Hallmark—A British stamp that indicates the purity and origin of a precious metal. 22 Each precious metal article must be stamped with a hallmark that indicates its purity and origin. A complete British hallmark includes: • A sponsor’s mark that identifies the manufacturer, or sponsor, of the item by using initials of the individual or firm responsible • A standard mark that certifies the precious metal content • The fineness, stated as karatage or as parts per thousand • The location of the assay office responsible for certifying the article • The date letter, which shows the year in which the article was hallmarked (this became voluntary as of January 1, 1999) The British hallmark for gold includes all five stamps. Gold’s standard mark is a crown. Jewelry and Jewelry Sales British Hallmarking Council British Hallmarking Council British hallmarks are the equivalent of quality marks in the US. Punches are used to stamp the standardized symbols on precious metals. In a British hallmark, the standard mark indicates the type of metal an item is made of. Each jewelry metal has its own recognizable symbol. The crown is the symbol for gold. Sterling silver (92.5 percent pure) has the lion passant, while Britannia silver (95.8 percent pure) has a lion’s head “erased” (profile view, jagged at the neck) or a seated figure of Britannia. The crossand-orb symbol indicates 95 percent (or higher) pure platinum. Eric Welch/GIA Paul V.A. Johnson/British Hallmarking Council British quality marks are used to identify a jewelry piece’s manufacturer, where it was assayed, its fineness, and the year it was hallmarked. The leopard’s head is the official symbol of the London assay office. When it’s used in a British hallmark, it means that the London office certified the item. In the 1300s, before the London assay office adopted it, the leopard’s head was used to identify 92.5 percent pure silver. Silver and platinum are stamped with all but the fineness mark. That’s because the standard mark indicates the type of alloy it is, and the alloy type indicates the fineness. Silver, platinum, and palladium have their own standard marks. The symbol for sterling silver (92.5 percent pure) is a figure of a lion walking with its farthest forepaw raised, called a lion passant. Britannia silver, which is 95.8 percent fine, has a lion’s head or the seated figure of Britannia, a female figure that symbolizes Britain. Platinum that’s 95 percent pure or higher is symbolized by a cross on top of a round globe, called an orb. As of January 2010, the hallmarking of palladium became compulsory in Britain. The standard mark for palladium that’s 50, 95, or 99.9 percent pure is a figure symbolizing Pallas Athene, the Greek goddess of war, wearing a warrior’s helmet. Lion passant—A lion walking with its farthest forepaw raised; Britain’s mark for sterling silver. Britannia silver—Silver that’s 95.8 percent fine, represented by a lion’s head or the seated figure of Britannia. 23 Jewelry Essentials 1 Robert Weldon/GIA Joel Beeson/GIA The country stamp on the back of this yellow gold ring identifies it as a product of Italy. There's also a stamp with identity marks and a stamp indicating its gold content in parts per thousand. The letters “AR” indicate that the company is located in Arezzo. The back of this pendant shows a 750 (18K) gold hallmark and the three identity marks required by the Italian government. “Chimento” is the manufacturer’s mark. These identity marks include the Star of Italy and a number indicating that the producer was the 267th company in the province to apply for a stamp. Regulations in Italy By law, any gold jewelry sold in Italy must be at least 18K. Manufacturers can produce gold that’s less fine, but solely for export. Italy requires that gold objects weighing more than one gram (0.035 ounce, avoirdupois) must have two stamps. The first indicates the gold content in parts per thousand (750 indicates 18K, for example). The second stamp has three identity marks. The first is the “Star of Italy,” which identifies the manufacturer as an Italian company. Next is a number that indicates the order in which the company applied for a stamp in its province (for example, the number is 14 if it was the fourteenth company in that province to apply). There are also two letters that indicate the province where the company is located (for example, VI for Vicenza, MI for Milan, AR for Arezzo). These markings are the absolute minimum required by Italian law. A company is free to add any other identifying marks. It can be a company logo, a model number, or the name of a product line. These regulations apply only to Italian manufacturers producing and selling within Italy. If an Italian company produces items for export, it must add another stamp, depending on the destination country. Exports to the United States, for instance, must be stamped with the word ITALY in English. Regulations in Asia In Japan, jewelry manufacturers submit their goods to the Mint Bureau, an agency of the government’s Ministry of Finance. The Mint examines the fineness of platinum, gold, silver, and platinum-and-gold items, then stamps them with the Mint Certification Mark and a fineness mark. Platinum items are also marked with a “Pt.” 24 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales The Mint Bureau’s fineness marks vary. There are marks for platinum in 850, 900, 950, and 1000 ppt categories; for gold in nine categories from 375 ppt (9K) through 1000 ppt; and for silver in 800, 900, 925, 950, and 1000 ppt categories. Items made of platinum and gold combinations are marked with numbers that indicate the purity of both metals (for example, 750/900 Pt). KEY CONCEPTS Precious metal plated goods are legally defined by the thickness of the plating and the fineness of the precious metal. The Mint’s fineness mark is usually accompanied by a manufacturer’s trademark. In Hong Kong, the Customs and Excise Department administers gold regulations through its Trade Descriptions Ordinance. The bottom limit for gold alloy is 8K, or 333 ppt of gold. Hong Kong jewelry items are stamped with special characters to indicate purity levels. The finest gold—not less than 990 ppt, or 99 percent pure— gets the designation of “Chuk Kam” The Chinese characters for “Chuk Pak Kam” indicate platinum with a fineness of not less than 990 ppt. Indonesia’s gold jewelry standards require a special mark along with the manufacturer’s logo and karatage mark. The karatage is subject to confirmation by government and industry associations. Marking and Selling Plated Goods All the precious metals (usually in alloy form) can be used as plating, but gold and silver are the most common. Among plated goods, thicker coatings wear better and last longer. They also look more like solid gold or silver than thinner coatings, giving a piece a richer look. Plating thickness is measured in tiny units of measure called microns. A micron equals one thousandth of a millimeter. An average human hair is about 50 microns across. The thickness of the plating and the fineness of the precious metal content determine the legal definition of the finish. For example, an item must have a half-micron layer of fine gold to be referred to as “gold plated.” There’s a chart on the next page that describes the various types of plating. The designer of this sterling silver brooch took advantage of gold-plating technology to enhance its appearance with a two-tone look. Valerie Power/GIA Gold plating can give jewelry articles the rich look of gold at a fraction of the price of a similar solid gold piece. 25 Jewelry Essentials 1 Types of Plating Technique Description Quality Mark Example Gold plate The item must be coated with gold or a gold alloy of at least 10K, to a minimum thickness of one-half micron. You can indicate the exact thickness if you also list the karat fineness. 18K G.P. or 2 microns 12K G.P. Gold electroplate A gold or gold alloy of 10K or finer, with a minimum overall thickness of 0.175 microns, applied by an electrolytic process. If the gold is fine enough but not thick enough, it’s called “Gold Flashed” or “Gold Washed.” 18K G.E.P. Heavy gold electroplate A coating of 10K gold or finer with a minimum overall thickness of 2.5 microns. 12K H.G.E. Gold filled A material with 10K or finer gold alloy soldered or attached to a less costly metal. The plating must make up at least 1/20 of the total metal weight. If it doesn’t, the exact percentage has to be listed. Also called “Gold Overlay” or “Rolled Gold Plate.” 12K G.F. or 1/40 12K G.F. Silver plate A base metal coated with a layer of silver that must be thick enough to provide a durable covering. Also called “silver coated.” Can’t be called sterling or bear a “silver” hallmark. Vermeil Sterling silver base coated with gold or gold alloy of 10K or finer. The coating must be at least 2.5 microns thick. Vermeil FTC rules make retailers responsible for accurately describing the plated merchandise they sell. This table shows common types of plating and their associated quality marks. These marks are examples of stamps you might see—the actual stamp depends on the karatage of the alloy. 26 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Robert Weldon/GIA Style might refer to the category of jewelry piece, such as a pin or necklace, or it might refer to the work of a particular designer. It’s also used to indicate jewelry from a period in time. Manufacturing n What is the most common gem-setting style? n What are the three main jewelry categories? n What are the major jewelry manufacturing methods? Although the word “style” is defined as “a distinctive and identifiable form”—relating to an item’s structure, pattern, and shape—”jewelry style” means much more than that. It might refer to the type of jewelry, such as rings, earrings, necklaces, chains, bracelets, anklets, brooches, pins, cufflinks, and tie tacks. Jewelry style can also refer to a look or design theme that represents a time period, or to designer, branded, or custom jewelry. You’ll learn about these style variations in future assignments. There are many jewelry setting styles, offering a variety of ways to hold gems in place in their mountings. The most common setting style is the prong setting, which consists of narrow metal supports that hold a gem securely. In some countries, it’s called a claw setting. You’ll learn about many more setting styles in Assignment 2. Setting style—The way a gem is secured in its mounting. Mounting—Jewelry item with space for holding gems. Prong (claw) setting—Setting style consisting of narrow metal supports that hold a gem in its mounting. 27 Jewelry Essentials 1 Convenience is helping online retailers gain in popularity over traditional outlets. They can provide customers with an easy way to compare prices without leaving the comfort of their homes. Eric Welch/GIA Many customers prefer “brick-and-mortar” retail stores because they provide personal service. They also like to be able to touch and try on the jewelry they’re about to purchase. Jewelry Categories About half of US consumers buy jewelry every year. They make their purchases in retail settings ranging from discount stores to luxury venues. Retailing includes television shopping channels, Web sites, discount and mass merchandisers, department stores, independent and chain jewelers, and others. In the US market, jewelry is divided into three categories: • Fine jewelry • Bridge jewelry • Fashion or costume jewelry Fine jewelry is made of 14K or finer gold, sterling silver, or platinum. If it contains gems, they’re high quality and usually of substantial size. Bridge jewelry is the category in between. It’s made of gold that’s less than 14K or lightweight 14K, gold-filled metal or sterling silver, and with or without lower-quality gems. Fashion or costume jewelry might be made of base metals, plastic, wood, or other common materials, with or without sterling silver or gold plate. If it’s set with gems, they might be laboratory-grown or imitations. 28 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Bridge jewelry provides an expensive look with less costly gems, gold alloys, or silver. Fine jewelry combines excellent design and craftsmanship with larger highquality gems like the aquamarine in this beautiful ring. No matter where customers shop and what categories of jewelry they buy, they have certain common motivations. Jewelry salespeople who understand those motivations, genuinely like people, and know their products can do a better job of serving their customers and enjoy great success in jewelry sales. Jewelry Manufacturing Methods A jewelry piece can be a handmade one-of-a-kind item or one of thousands of identical, mass-produced copies. On the following pages, there are brief descriptions of the major jewelry manufacturing methods: hand fabrication, lost-wax casting, die striking, electroforming, and machining. Each method was developed to satisfy different design needs and applications. Lauren Stomel Associates Valerie Power/GIA These cheerful colored glass pendants are examples of fashion jewelry. They’re inexpensive to make and own and provide consumers with extensive and attractive choices. The cable in these assembled earrings was machine-made, while the 14K yellow gold accents were cast. The manufacturer then soldered the pieces together. Without this combination of manufacturing methods, these relatively simple earrings would require extensive hand labor, which wouldn’t be cost effective. 29 Jewelry Essentials 1 Mike Havstad/GIA GIA This exquisite necklace features black opals, diamonds, and rubies. Its unique design as well as the nonstandard shapes, large sizes, and high value of the individual gemstones made hand fabrication the best option for the manufacturer. In the US, FTC guidelines state that hand-fabricated or handmade jewelry must be made entirely by hand or with hand tools like these. Hand Fabrication In a truly hand-fabricated item, every element is formed, assembled, joined, and finished entirely by hand or with hand tools. Flex shafts and polishing wheels are considered hand tools because, although they’re powered by electricity, they’re hand-controlled. Because hand fabrication is time and labor intensive, the pieces can be expensive, but the process has many benefits. For one thing, it offers jewelers a great deal of creative freedom. It can result in complex designs that might be impossible with other methods. It’s often used for creating custom-designed, one-of-a-kind pieces, or to build pieces around gems that would be difficult to set into pre-made mountings. Lost-Wax Casting Lost-wax casting can be used for mass production and one-of-a-kind pieces. The casting process has several steps, starting with creating a wax model of the piece to be cast. This is done either by hand or by injecting the wax into a rubber mold. A plaster-like material called investment is poured around the wax model. 30 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales This ring’s 14K yellow gold shank was cast and its 14K white gold head was diestruck. The two pieces were then soldered together. The head was die-struck rather than cast to give the prongs greater holding power, a benefit that stems from the greater density of die-struck metals. Robert Weldon/GIA Lauren Stomel Associates This 14K gold ring is a one-piece casting. It’s one of a kind, made to order especially for an individual customer. It would also be possible to produce thousands of copies of the setting by making rubber molds before setting the gems. The shank and head of this 14K gold engagement ring were both cast. To achieve the two-tone look, the white gold head and yellow gold shank were cast separately, then assembled. When the investment hardens, the wax is melted away, leaving a cavity that is then filled with molten jewelry metal. When the metal hardens, the investment is broken away, leaving a rough jewelry piece that is then finished and polished. Lost-wax casting is a versatile process that can produce both simple and complex designs. The technique can be used to produce large numbers of identical pieces, making it both economical and relatively affordable. Also, details show up well in cast jewelry. Die Striking Die striking starts with manufacturing a steel pattern called a die that’s designed to create a particular jewelry item or component. Dies usually have two parts: a punch and a mold. A die-striking machine cuts blanks of jewelry metals to the sizes and shapes needed for the jewelry item. A blank is then placed between the punch and the mold and subjected to tremendous pressure. This shapes and compresses the metal to produce a dense, durable product. 31 Jewelry Essentials 1 The links of this 14K gold bracelet were die-struck, which allowed for precise detail and light weight. Die striking also results in a more durable product, which means the design details of this bracelet will keep their sharp appearance. Joel Beeson/GIA The Newark Museum Die-struck prong heads like these are more durable than cast heads. Making precise dies for jewelry takes great skill. The method is ideal for designs that require crisp, sharp images like these. These vintage steel dies were manufactured in the 1920s. Die-struck jewelry can be both strong and lightweight. It also requires less metal and uses less time and labor for the finishing process. Because multiple items can be made with the same die, die striking is economical, too, making die-struck jewelry affordable. Die striking makes crisp detail and sharp edges possible. A design can be engraved into the die, making this method especially useful for producing jewelry with a detailed pattern. Electroforming In electroforming, several wax copies are created and coated with a thin layer of conductive paint. The copies are then submerged in an electrically charged solution that contains precious metal particles. The charged particles bond to the coating, building a metallic surface. When the precious metal layer is the desired thickness, the manufacturer removes the forms. A heating process melts the wax out through a small hole in the rigid metal shell. Stuller, Inc. Many people love big, bold earrings. Electroforming can make large earrings comfortably lightweight because the process allows them to be hollow. The precious metal shell produced by electroforming can also be fairly complex and display either a bright or a matte finish. 32 Electroforming creates hollow jewelry that’s light in weight but has a massive look. It’s also surprisingly durable, although not as durable as cast and die-struck items. Because it uses less metal than other methods, the process can also result in lower-priced jewelry. Stuller, Inc. Stuller, Inc. These earrings were electroformed, which gives them a big, luxurious look while also making them lightweight and comfortable. This popular knot style can also be made by other methods, such as casting and die striking. This puffed heart is an ideal design for taking advantage of electroforming’s ability to show contours. Its light weight is also a plus for a large pendant. Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Machining Machining begins with the melting of the precious metal, which is then hardened into a solid form called an ingot. After drilling a hole through the center and smoothing the outer surface, the manufacturer forces the ingot through a series of shaping steps that condense and elongate it into a tube. When the tube is the desired thickness, the manufacturer cuts blanks from it that are slightly larger than the finished jewelry item. The blanks are mounted on cutting or milling machines for trimming to the desired size and shape. After that, the jewelry items are given a final polish. Machined jewelry includes wedding bands, solitaire ring settings, and more. It’s even possible to add a gem-setting step to the machining process. Because the metal is repeatedly condensed as it’s shaped, machining results in stronger, denser, and harder metal than would be possible with casting. Richard Boyd These rings were cut from tubes produced by the machining process. Machined products are typically harder and more durable than similar articles made by lost-wax casting. Mark Mann Mark Mann The machining process starts with the melting of the precious metal alloy, which is then poured into a cylindrical mold. Once the metal cylinder—called an ingot—has cooled, it’s mounted on a lathe so the outer surface can be milled to make it smooth. Mark Mann Mark Mann The next step is to drill the ingot through its center and cut it into shorter lengths. The smaller ingots go through a series of shaping steps that squeeze them into long tubes. 33 Jewelry Essentials 1 Valerie Power/GIA If your store is tidy and well organized and your approach is polished and professional, you’re more likely to succeed in jewelry sales. KEY CONCEPTS Considering the customer’s point of view and using a step-by-step system will help you succeed in jewelry sales. Introduction to Jewelry Sales n n n What are the seven steps of a sale? What’s the best approach to use to make a customer feel comfortable in your store? What are some of the many links in the jewelry industry chain? Imagine being a customer. You go into a retail store prepared to spend some money. You know you’re going to buy something, but you’re not sure exactly what. You’ve probably had both these experiences: Experience No. 1—You look the merchandise over and have questions. You need help from a sales associate, but there’s no one around. You finally find a sales associate who seems preoccupied and not interested in helping you. You persist, even though you feel as if you’re imposing. The sales associate is sloppily dressed and poorly groomed. He has a surly manner, isn’t helpful, and doesn’t know the merchandise well enough to answer your questions. You lose patience and leave the store without buying anything. Experience No. 2—A neatly dressed, well-groomed sales associate approaches and engages you in a pleasant conversation that begins with sincere interest in you. The talk turns to the merchandise you’re looking over, and the sales associate politely answers your questions. She is knowledgeable and shows genuine concern for you, your needs, and the suitability of the merchandise. You make your selection and also buy an additional item the sales associate suggests. You leave the store feeling pleased and confident you’ve made the right choice. When you put yourself in the customer’s place, it’s easy to see which experience you’d prefer. As a jewelry sales associate, considering the customer’s point of view and using a step-by-step sales system will help you succeed. 34 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Robert Weldon/GIA Style might refer to the category of jewelry piece, such as a pin or necklace, or it might refer to the work of a particular designer. It’s also used to indicate jewelry from a period in time. Seven Steps of a Sale It’s obvious how sales success benefits a sales associate, but it’s not so obvious how it benefits the customer. It helps the customer get the product she wants, the pleasure of shopping for and choosing the product, and pride of ownership. Selling is the process that helps a customer acquire a product and the benefits it provides. People who study retail sales have developed a system that greatly increases the success rate. According to this system, there are seven steps to a successful sale: KEY CONCEPTS Selling is the process that helps a customer obtain a product and the benefits it provides. 1. Approach the Customer 2. Exchange Information 3. Build Value 4. Create Desire 5. Trial Close 6. Close the Sale 7. Follow Up 35 Jewelry Essentials 1 During the approach and information exchange, you make the customer feel welcome and comfortable and get to know what he or she wants. Building value is where you begin to deepen the customer’s participation in the sales process. Creating desire helps the customer develop an emotional attachment to you and to the jewelry item. Once you’ve successfully moved through these stages, you can try a trial close. That’s where you test your customer’s readiness to buy. After that, it’s just a matter of getting the customer to commit and closing the sale. Finally, the follow up is an important step that keeps you involved with the customer and helps you promote future sales. Although no sale follows a script perfectly, this system provides a framework for success. In later assignments, you’ll learn about these steps in more detail. The Jewelry Industry The gems and jewelry in a retail store are part of a huge worldwide industry. When a customer buys jewelry, the transaction might appear simple, but by the time that sale is made, dozens of people and businesses might have participated. They’re links in a chain that stretches from the original sources of the gems and metals in the jewelry piece all the way to the retail customer. Eric Welch/GIA Whether it’s a precious metal or a gem, the industry starts with mining. This weary Colombian miner scours the black rocks for precious emeralds. KEY CONCEPTS The retailing of gems and jewelry is only one aspect of a huge worldwide industry. The emerald miner in Colombia, the gold miner in South Africa, the diamond cutter in Israel, the designer in Italy, the wholesale representative in Japan, the gemologist in the US, and many, many others are part of the worldwide gem and jewelry industry. It’s an industry that blends art with commerce to satisfy people’s timeless desire to adorn themselves with beautiful things. The jewelry industry’s scope allows lots of room for diverse talents. Whether you’re starting your professional life or changing careers, you might be wondering about your place in the jewelry industry. If you begin at the sources of gems and metals and follow them through to jewelry available for retail sale, you’ll find there are dozens of possible roles to play. Andrew Lucas/GIA Skilled cutters shape the hard-won rough emeralds into glittering gems. 36 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Piaget A designer is able to envision a superb emerald necklace with a scattering of tiny diamonds to add sparkle and grace. Eric Welch/GIA Many jewelry pieces contain diamonds. India is the world’s premier center of diamond cutting. Cutters there fashion as many as nine out of every ten diamonds. Piaget Piaget Talented artisans bring jewelry designs to life. They unite the glittering gems with gleaming precious metals to make wearable art. The final result is a shining testament to human artistry. It’s a unique jewelry masterpiece that combines gems, metals, design, manufacturing skill, and honest human labor. 37 Jewelry Essentials 1 What’s to Come You’ve already gained some very useful information in this assignment. Much of it—especially the jewelry basics and sales steps—lays a foundation for what you’ll find in upcoming assignments. There’s a lot in this assignment that you can use right away. For example, you might include information about precious metals or jewelry manufacturing methods in your next sales presentation. As you progress through the assignments, you’ll add to your knowledge and find other valuable information you can use almost daily. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about popular ring styles, store security, and Sales Steps 1 and 2: Approach the Customer and Exchange Information. Earn Your AJP Diploma Your enrollment in Jewelry Essentials shows that you’re committed to achieving excellence and success in your profession. Perhaps you chose this course to increase your product expertise and improve your sales presentations. Or maybe you’re planning to continue your education and earn the industry’s premier recognition of accomplishment—a GIA diploma. Either way, Jewelry Essentials can help you reach your goals and advance in your career. Jewelry Essentials is a powerful and effective The Applied Jewelry Professional diploma shows course that can stand on its own. It’s also your dedication to excellence in the jewelry part of the Applied Jewelry Professional profession. It’s awarded upon completion of (AJP) program, which also includes Jewelry Essentials, Diamond Essentials, and Diamond Essentials and Colored Stone Colored Stone Essentials. Essentials. Completing all three courses helps you expand your knowledge and confidence. It also entitles you to add the respected “AJP” designation after your name. This shows customers and employers alike that you are a dedicated, competent, and trustworthy jewelry professional. If you’d like to find out more about the AJP program, or about other GIA courses, you can call GIA toll-free in the US at (800) 421-7250, ext. 4001. Outside the US and Canada, call (760) 603-4000, ext. 4001. You can also send a fax to (760) 603-4153 or email your instructor. 38 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales KEY CONCEPTS To sell jewelry, you must know its features and be able to explain the importance of those features to your customer. Silver’s bright, white shine and workability are its principal assets for use in jewelry. Precious metals’ allure, rarity, workability, and durability make them excellent for use in jewelry. Most countries have stringent standards governing the use of precious metals in jewelry. Precious metals are expensive because they’re rare and difficult to extract from the earth. In the US, a registered trademark must accompany a quality mark. Gold’s appeal derives mostly from its color, luster, rarity, and resistance to corrosion. The best way for a jeweler to protect against underkarating fraud is to buy only registered trademarked and quality stamped gold jewelry. Gold is often the choice of customers who are particularly attracted to and excited by color. Alloying gold increases its tensile strength and hardness and makes it less expensive. Precious metal plated goods are legally defined by the thickness of the plating and the fineness of the precious metal. In the US, 14K is the most popular jewelry gold alloy. Considering the customer’s point of view and using a step-bystep system will help you succeed in jewelry sales. Platinum is highly resistant to tarnish, takes a high polish, and is harder to scratch than gold and silver. Selling is the process that helps a customer obtain a product and the benefits it provides. Palladium is a silvery white metal that has recently become popular with jewelry consumers. The retailing of gems and jewelry is only one aspect of a huge worldwide industry. 39 Jewelry Essentials 1 Key Terms Alloy—A mixture of two or more metals. Anodizing—An electrochemical process that results in a protective or decorative coating on metal. Base metals—Non-precious metals such as copper, zinc, tin, nickel, lead, and iron. Benefit—The value a feature holds for a customer. Britannia silver—Silver that’s 95.8 percent fine, represented by a lion’s head or the seated figure of Britannia. Corrosion—Deterioration by a chemical action. Ductile—Able to be drawn into wire or hammered into sheets without breaking. Durable—Long-lasting, especially without sustaining damage or wear. Electroplating—Using electricity to deposit a coating of precious metal, suspended in a solution, on another metal. Lion passant—A lion walking with its farthest forepaw raised; Britain’s mark for sterling silver. Luster—The appearance of a material’s surface in reflected light. Malleable—Able to be shaped or bent without breaking. Mounting—Jewelry item with space for holding gems. Patina—Soft, rich surface appearance that develops with age. Plating—Depositing a metal coating electrically or applying it mechanically onto another metal. Precious metals—Metals valued in jewelry, specifically gold, platinum, and silver. Prong (claw) setting—Setting style consisting of narrow metal supports that hold a gem in its mounting. Feature—A characteristic or part of a piece of jewelry. Quality mark—A stamp that indicates the purity of a precious metal. Fine—Virtually free of impurities or alloying metals. Setting style—The way a gem is secured in its mounting. Fineness—A measure of the purity of a precious metal. Hallmark—A British stamp that indicates the purity and origin of a precious metal. Tarnish—A mild form of corrosion caused by contact with chemical elements or compounds in the environment. Hardness—How well a metal resists scratching and denting. Tensile strength—Maximum stretching force a metal can withstand before breaking. Heft—The weight or heaviness of an object compared to its size. Trademark—A word, phrase, logo, symbol, or design that’s registered to identify the manufacturer of an item. Karat—A unit of measure for the fineness of gold, based on a total of 24 parts, abbreviated “K.” Underkarating—Misrepresenting the precious metal content of a jewelry item. 40 Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Questions for Review n What two pieces of information should you know about the jewelry you sell? n What are the properties and uses of precious metals? n What are some alternative jewelry materials? n What do quality marks reveal about a jewelry item? n How do trademarks protect retailers? n What factors determine the marks stamped on plated goods? n What is the most common gem-setting style? n What are the three main jewelry categories? n What are the major jewelry manufacturing methods? n What are the seven steps of a sale? n What’s the best approach to use to make a customer feel comfortable in your store? n What are some of the many links in the jewelry industry chain? 41 Selling Rings 2 Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Popular Ring Setting Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Other Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Engagement and Wedding Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Other Diamond Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Colored Stone Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Gemstone Ring Cautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 First Steps of the Sales Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Preparing to Sell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Sales Step 1—Approach the Customer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Consider the Situation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 The Merchandise Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 The Friendship Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 I’m Just Looking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Sales Step 2—Exchange Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 A Sample Information Exchange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Store Security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Burglary, Theft, and Robbery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Shoplifting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Questions for Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 43 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 2. With the knowledge you gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to: • Recognize a wide variety of diamond and colored stone ring setting styles. • Explain the care requirements for diamonds and colored stones set in rings. • Approach the customer and exchange information. • Handle basic retail store security procedures. 44 Selling Rings Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs Rings are the most popular jewelry items. They can be found in a variety of styles at all market levels. Selling Rings The young woman walked into the store and asked Barry about a threestone amethyst ring she’d seen in one of his store’s window displays. “That’s a very pretty ring, isn’t it?” Barry responded. “It’s a good value too. Would you like to take a closer look?” “Yes, I would,” the woman replied. “It looks like a ring my husband gave me when we were first married. I lost it down a drain.” “Oh, I’m sorry to hear that,” Barry said. “Sentimental value is hard to replace, but we can try.” He unlocked the case and took the ring box out. He introduced himself as he placed the ring on the counter pad. “I’m Barry Williams,” he said. “My name is Jennifer,” she replied. “Was your ring also set with amethysts, Jennifer?” Barry continued. “Yes,” she replied, “but their color wasn’t as bright as these.” 45 Jewelry Essentials 2 “All three stones are the finest-color amethysts available,” he said. “As you’ve noticed, their color is particularly rich and velvety.” “They’re lovely,” she said. As he handed her the ring, Barry explained that the amethysts were all oval cuts and the setting was 18-karat gold. Jennifer slid the ring onto her right-hand ring finger, then held it up to admire it. “Oh, it’s so beautiful,” Jennifer said. “What are the weights of the stones?” “The center stone is nearly three carats and the outer ones are about one carat each,” Barry replied. “It’s a lovely ring,” she said softly. Then she continued, “And I’d love to replace that long-lost ring and surprise my husband. Are the settings secure?” “You don’t have to worry about that. As you can see, each stone is held in place by six prongs,” Barry said. “Also, we guarantee our jewelry under normal wear, and we have an in-store repair service.” “That’s good to know,” Jennifer said. She didn’t have to think about it for very long. She smiled and said, “I’ll take it.” Barry rang up the sale and entered Jennifer’s information in the store’s customer registry. He thanked her and gave her his business card. He asked if she’d like him to contact her with store specials and cleaning reminders. Jennifer said she would like that, then left the store wearing her lovely new ring. Ring Styles n n n What are the two main parts of a ring? What’s the most popular gemstone for engagement, wedding, and anniversary rings? What are some best-selling ring styles? As you learned in Assignment 1, setting style refers to the way a gem is secured in its mounting. Setting styles can range from a simple prong setting to an elaborate custom setting created to accommodate a special gemstone. In addition to providing a beautiful background for a gem, the main purpose of a setting is to hold that gem securely. 46 Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA In a well-made mounting, the head holds all the gems securely in place. This semi-mount features a cluster of blue diamonds. It would be the perfect background for an emerald-cut diamond, blue sapphire, or aquamarine. Selling Rings Parts of a ring Head Shank Peter Johnston/GIA KEY CONCEPTS Eric Welch/GIA A setting’s primary purpose is to hold a gem securely. Semi-mounts offer great flexibility for jewelers and clients alike. They let the client choose both mounting and main gem to create a unique piece. No matter what the style, every ring has two main parts. The part that fits around the finger is called the shank, and the part that holds the main gem or gems is called the head. Often, a jewelry retailer keeps a selection of semi-mounts, which are settings with side gems in place but no center stone. A semi-mount adds versatility by letting the customer choose a loose stone for placement in the central position. Semi-mounts belong to a category of small jewelry pieces called findings. Findings might be partially gem-set, but they’re often plain jewelry-metal components that can be used for making or repairing all types of jewelry. Shank—The part of a ring that fits around the finger. Head—The part of a mounting into which the main gems are set. Semi-mount—A setting with side gems and space for a center stone of the customer’s choosing. Findings—Small components used to make or repair jewelry. 47 Jewelry Essentials 2 Eric Welch/GIA A white metal bezel secures this beautiful sapphire cabochon in its mounting. Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Four sturdy prongs hold the round brilliant-cut diamond in place while smaller channel-set diamonds grace the ring’s sides. Tiny metal beads grip the girdle of this round brilliant-cut diamond. It’s one of two accent stones for a bold green tsavorite garnet. Hoover & Strong This stack of multicolored rings boasts tiny, precisely spaced diamonds. Each one is smoothly flush-mounted in the metal. Hoover and Strong Eric Welch/GIA Channel-set rows of small, perfectly matched gems lend color and sparkle to these high-quality rings. The sides of this beautiful ring sparkle with tiny pavé-set gems. Even the prongs that hold the deep blue aquamarine are encrusted with diamonds. Popular Ring Setting Styles As you learned in Assignment 1, the prong setting is the most common ring style. Each prong in the setting is a narrow piece of metal, and a setting usually consists of four to six prongs per gem. In some countries like the United Kingdom and Canada, prongs are called claws. Channel setting—Setting style with gems held in grooves, or channels. 48 A channel setting features one or more grooves, or channels. The manufacturer cuts notches in the channel walls and sets the stones in rows, edge to edge. The most durable channel settings also have reinforcing bars along the undersides of the channels. Selling Rings In a bead setting, gems are recessed into holes drilled in the mounting. The bench jeweler uses a tool to push pieces of the surrounding metal up to hold each stone in place. Next, using a tool with a small cup at the end, called a beading tool, the bench jeweler shapes the jagged metal pieces into rounded “beads.” Pavé is a type of bead setting. In a pavé setting, the gemstones are placed close together, often in a honeycomb pattern. It takes considerable skill to create a quality pavé setting. The setter secures the gems in a metal surface pierced with many tiny openings. Then, as in a regular bead setting, the setter pushes up small bits of the surrounding metal to secure the gems. A well executed pavé setting has the appearance of a sparkling field of gems. In a flush setting, the gem is set directly into the surrounding metal, with the top of the gem—the table—even with the metal surface. Besides being beautiful, the flush setting is very secure. And the gem is well protected by the metal that surrounds it. Bead setting—Setting style with gems held in place by rounded beads, usually pushed up from the surrounding metal. Pavé setting—Bead setting with many small gems placed close together, often in a honeycomb pattern. Flush setting—Setting style with a gem set directly into the metal with its table at the same level as the metal surface. Bezel—A thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold it in place. A bezel is a thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold it securely in place. Bezel settings can hold faceted stones, but they’re traditionally used to hold cabochons, which are cut with smooth, unfaceted, domed tops and flat or curved bottoms. Cabochon—A smoothly rounded polished gem with a domed top and a flat or curved base. Other Ring Styles Invisible setting—Setting style with grooved gems set between metal rails that hold them in place. Invisible settings are often associated with the pioneering work of design house Van Cleef and Arpels. They are the most difficult settings to accomplish well. In an invisible setting, each diamond or colored stone is grooved just below its girdle. The grooves help secure the gems between metal rails. Using this setting process, many gems can be placed together, with no gaps between them. The result is a smooth, rich, seamless field of gems. In an illusion setting, the stone is set within a metal rim. The setting’s purpose is to make a small stone look bigger. A tension setting fully displays a stone by making it look like it’s suspended in space. The stone is held in place by pressure from two opposing pieces of platinum or karat gold. The tension setting is most often used with harder gems because the pressure it exerts tends to damage less durable ones. Illusion setting—Stone set within a metal rim that makes the stone look bigger. Tension setting—Setting with gem held in place by pressure between opposing pieces of platinum or karat gold. Ambar GIA & Tino Hammid Maha Tannous/GIA Small square brilliant cuts in invisible settings create an uninterrupted display of brilliance across this ring's surface. Illusion settings surround smaller gems, which are typically diamonds. From a distance, the diamonds in this ring appear larger. A fancy-colored brown diamond appears suspended in an arc of platinum in this designer ring. Tension settings like this are best suited to tough gems like diamond and corundum. 49 Jewelry Essentials 2 Hoover & Strong The wedding band that matches this solitaire is shaped to fit its contours. Shutterstock Wedding sets, or duos, come in an enticing array of styles to suit every couple’s taste. Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Engagement ring—Ring set with a gem, usually a diamond, given to signify an intention to marry. The stones surrounding a solitaire don’t have to be large to create a dazzling effect. Rows of tiny diamonds add a delicate touch to this mounting. This solitaire boasts a 1.25-ct. center diamond between two matching 0.25-ct diamonds. Some trade professionals call this arrangement a three-stone setting. Wedding ring—A ring, usually a plain band, worn by someone who is married. Engagement and Wedding Rings Wedding set (duo)—A pair consisting of a woman’s matched engagement and wedding rings. Solitaire—Jewelry piece with one main gem, typically a diamond. Wrap—A ring designed to dress up a second ring, which is often a solitaire. Guard—A ring worn to enclose and enhance another ring; also a bar secured across a ring’s shank to reduce its diameter and keep it from sliding off. 50 The tradition of wearing both an engagement ring and a wedding ring dates back to the 1800s. The concept of matched wedding and engagement rings, however, is a twentieth-century development. In retail sales, the matched pair is often called a wedding set, bridal set, or duo. The traditional engagement ring is a diamond solitaire, which consists of a single main gem. The wedding ring is a band of gold, platinum, or other precious metal. The metal might be plain or decorated, and it might be set with diamonds or other gems. The wedding ring might be designed as a wrap or a guard. The wrap supports the ring on one side and the guard has two shanks that surround it completely. Both are designed to enhance the beauty of the engagement ring. There’s another type of guard that’s practical rather than decorative. It’s simply a bar that’s secured across the shank to reduce a ring’s size and keep it from sliding off. Selling Rings Royalty-Free/Corbis Whatever the style, a wedding set symbolizes a loving landmark in your clients’ lives. Eric Welch/GIA Not every solitaire setting features a round brilliant diamond. Some brides fall in love with fancy cuts, like the pear shape in this ring. A matched ensemble consisting of an engagement ring, a woman’s wedding ring, and a man’s wedding band is sometimes called a trio. In Japan and Western societies, the gemstones in women’s engagement and wedding rings are most often diamonds. De Beers, the diamond mining and marketing conglomerate, has successfully promoted that idea for decades. Largely through De Beers’ powerful advertising and public relations efforts, diamonds have come to signify milestones in people’s lives. Not everyone accepts the diamonds-only idea for an engagement ring, however. In 1981, Prince Charles and Princess Diana attracted international media attention when Diana proudly wore a sapphire engagement ring. The colored stone engagement ring honored a British royal tradition, and couples worldwide followed the couple’s lead. Their son, Prince William, inherited Diana’s ring upon her death and presented it to his fiancée, Kate, when they became engaged in 2010. Trio—Matched ensemble consisting of an engagement ring, a woman’s wedding ring, and a man’s wedding band. KEY CONCEPTS Engagement and wedding rings are most often set with diamonds. 51 Jewelry Essentials 2 Hoover & Strong This eternity ring features a continuous band of alternating diamonds and blue sapphires. Eric Welch/GIA Variations on the classic solitaire remain very popular. This ring features a pale pink diamond with matching accents. Other Diamond Ring Styles Anniversary band—Ring with a row of gems of the same size and cut. Eternity ring—Ring encircled with a row of closely matched gems. Over the years, De Beers has developed several products to promote the use of diamonds in jewelry. The anniversary band is a popular gift from husband to wife on a wedding anniversary. It’s set with a continuous row of diamonds or other precious gems, usually of the same size and cut. The gems can extend all the way or only part way around the band. The anniversary band is a renamed and energetically marketed version of the ancient eternity ring. It was called that because the circle is a traditional symbol of eternity. Today’s eternity ring features gems set all the way around it. De Beers introduced the style’s new name in the 1970s as a way to promote the sale of smaller diamonds to married couples. Women have been wearing rings set with three stones for decades, if not centuries. The gems might have been any combination of diamonds and colored stones, or three of one or the other. In recent years, De Beers 52 Selling Rings KEY CONCEPTS Modern three-stone jewelry is promoted to represent the past, present, and future of a relationship. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA A row of matched round brilliant-cut diamonds catches the light in this classic anniversary band. This ring’s fancy yellow heart-shaped diamond makes a stunning statement. Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA A right-hand ring might feature a unique and substantial diamond like this radiant-cut yellow gem. Tapered baguette diamonds on the sides make a perfect accent. Some designers showcase the unique shapes of rough diamonds in their jewelry. This ring would make a unique conversation piece. adopted the three-stone ring as a diamond-promotion product. Its success led to three-stone pendant and earring versions. The three diamonds are the same shape, with the largest stone usually in the center. The stones represent the past, present, and future of a relationship. Another De Beers diamond-promotion product was the right-hand ring. It was usually designed with the stones spread out rather than close together as they typically are in engagement and wedding rings. Part of the original concept was that a woman would buy a right-hand ring for herself. Right-hand ring—A diamond ring promoted as a self-purchase and worn on a woman’s right hand to signify independence and power. Of course, women have been wearing rings on their right hands for centuries, but De Beers and its advertising agency chose to portray the right-hand ring as a declaration of the wearer’s independence. The advertising copy nicely expressed the marketing concept: “Your left hand says ‘we,’ your right hand says ‘me’.” 53 Jewelry Essentials 2 Philip Zahm Designs The rich and varied hues of colored stones provide a choice for every mood. Although these rings have similar mountings, the gem selection gives each one a richly different look. Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs A fabulous rare blue tourmaline provides a suitable centerpiece for this high-quality hand-fabricated mounting. Colored Stone Rings There’s an almost limitless variety of ring styles, and many feature colored stones, often with diamond accents. The diamond three-stone ring that you learned about earlier might have a colored stone set between a matched pair of diamonds, or consist of three colored stones. You might also see anniversary or eternity rings set with colored stones instead of diamonds, or with a combination of colored stones and diamonds. They’re ideal companions to colored stone solitaire rings. Cocktail ring—A flashy, oversized ring, often set with less-expensive gems. Cluster ring—Ring with a group of small stones set closely together or a large central gem surrounded by several smaller ones. Ballerina ring—A ring that looks like a ballerina’s tutu, with a central stone encircled by rectangular diamonds. 54 Some rings are designed to dazzle the eye. One of those is the flashy, oversized cocktail ring that was originally popularized in the 1940s and 1950s. To allow for impressive gem size and affordability, cocktail rings are often set with less-expensive gems. The cluster ring is also impressive, with a group of small stones or a large center stone surrounded by smaller gems. A ballerina ring takes its name and design from a ballerina’s tutu, with rectangular diamonds encircling a larger stone, often a colored gem. Designers might use colored stones in contrasting colors and shapes to create dramatic custom rings. For example, the bold green of tsavorite Selling Rings Valerie Power/GIA Cluster rings that consist of a large central colored gem encircled by matched diamonds are among the most popular ring styles. Robert Weldon/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA Vianna Joias Geometrical grooves in the cut and a contrasting accent stone give this aquamarine ring the feel of an abstract piece of modern art. A circle of tapered baguette diamonds surrounds the lush green of an emerald in this classic ballerina setting. Bold colors and chunky styling give these designer cocktail rings a playful feel. garnet or peridot makes a striking statement when combined with a rich red tourmaline or rhodolite garnet. Some colored stones are designated as birthstones and set into rings or other jewelry styles. Each month of the year is associated with one or two birthstones, and people born during that month can choose jewelry featuring the designated gem. Similarly, certain colored stones are associated with the signs of the zodiac. A variation of the birthstone ring, called a mother’s ring, is set with children’s birthstones to honor the maternal role. Colored stones are also popular in men’s rings, where gems like jadeite and cat’s-eye chrysoberyl provide a strong, masculine look. The signet ring is a type of man’s ring, with a flattened top surface that might be engraved with initials or other unique insignia. Birthstone—Gem associated with the month in which a person was born. Mother’s ring—Ring personalized with children’s birthstones. Signet ring—A flat-topped ring that might be engraved with initials or other unique insignia. Bypass (crossover) ring—Ring where the ends of the shank pass each other rather than meeting at the head. With a bypass or crossover ring, the ends of the shank don’t meet at the head as they do in other rings. Rather, they pass each other, leaving space in between. The gems might be mounted on the shank ends or within the space. Hololith—Jewelry carved entirely from a single gemstone, often jade. A hololith is a continuous band carved from a single gemstone, often jade. A saddle ring is a hololith with a decoratively carved top. Saddle ring—Hololith with a decoratively carved top. 55 Jewelry Essentials 2 Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Emerald is another beautiful stone that requires care during wear. Although it might match sapphire’s brilliant blue, tanzanite is a softer gem that requires caution when worn as a ring stone. The glory of this large amethyst is its color and unique cut. It’s a softer gem, though, so care during wear is important. Robert Weldon/GIA Sapphires are tough, durable gems. This fine example from the famous Kashmir mines is a gem that can truly withstand everyday wear. Valerie Power/GIA Cultured pearls are perennial favorites as ring stones, but many experts counsel caution because pearls are softer than many other gems. With proper care, these lustrous beauties will last a lifetime. Gemstone Ring Cautions Because of their position on wearers’ hands, gemstone rings are exposed to more potential damage than necklaces and earrings. Gems in rings have to be fairly hard, especially if they’re worn frequently. Durable gems like diamonds, rubies, and sapphires are often used in engagement and wedding rings because they can withstand being worn on the hand all the time. You’ll also see softer gems like emeralds, pearls, opals, garnets, tourmalines, or amethysts in rings, but they’re more vulnerable to damage, making them less suitable for everyday wear. Certain stones are selected because their colors complement outfits worn for particular occasions. Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs The flash of color that plays over a fine opal’s surface as it moves makes it highly desirable. It’s a softer gem, so advise your clients not to expose it to excessive wear. 56 Vibrant stones like tanzanite and peridot can be excellent choices for rings that are worn only occasionally. They provide the spectacular effect of a large stone without the expense of a comparably sized diamond. Colored stones can also take starring roles in high-priced, one-of-a-kind rings. Selling Rings Eric Welch/GIA You’ll meet a wide variety of customers, all in the market for jewelry that’s just right for them. Try to adjust your approach to suit their demeanor. Valerie Power/GIA As a sales associate, you project your store’s image and market position. First Steps of the Sales Process n What steps should you take to prepare for selling? n Why is your first greeting essential to your later success? n How do you obtain the information you need to sell to an individual customer? Just like an airline pilot doing a pre-flight check, you should do your own pre-sales check before you meet customers on the selling floor. The check should include a review of your appearance, attitude, and knowledge. Your clothes, grooming, and accessories should be appropriate for your store and clientele. For example, a jewelry sales associate at Tiffany & Co. would dress differently from a jewelry sales associate at Walmart. KEY CONCEPTS Your appearance should be appropriate for your store and clientele. Your attitude is also important. You should always be positive and cheerful, but be careful not to overwhelm your customers by being overly aggressive. Simply try to be supportive, friendly, and upbeat. Start by trying to mirror your customer’s demeanor. If your customer has a light and breezy attitude, try not to be serious and sullen. If your customer is technically inclined, you don’t want to be airy and romantic. If your customer’s pace is slow, try not to be hyperactive. 57 Jewelry Essentials 2 Valerie Power/GIA As you go through your day, check the prices, weights, and styles of your store’s jewelry pieces. You’ll benefit by having this information at your fingertips. Valerie Power/GIA Get to know your store’s inventory. The more you know about what you have, the higher your chances of matching your client’s needs with the jewelry in stock. Preparing to Sell There are several things you should know before you can put any sales techniques to work. First, be familiar with your store’s basic procedures. Learn how to use the cash registers and other equipment. Know how to handle credit and debit cards, checks and cash. Learn your store’s policies on guarantees, warranties, layaways, and returns. Be aware of any additional services your store offers, like cleaning and repair, shipping, and gift wrapping. You should also know your store’s layout as well as the location of the keys to locked cases. Keep current on sales, specials, and promotions. Learn what goods you have in inventory, what is available by special order, and how long it takes for an order to come in. You should also become familiar with prices. It’s probably impossible to memorize the price of every item in your store, but you should at least know price ranges for the goods you have available. It also helps to be familiar with your competitors and what they offer. There’s only one effective way to get this information: Visit their stores. If your competitors are sharp, they’re checking your store too. Many jewelry purchases are based on romance and emotion, but there’s no substitute for good presentation and product knowledge. It’s important to be familiar with your products and how to handle and present them, and always follow your store’s security policies when showing jewelry. Handle the merchandise with respect. KEY CONCEPTS Knowledge of your store’s merchandise is essential to sales success. When customers ask questions about gems, metals, styles, or anything else, you must be able to answer them with authority. If you don’t know your store’s merchandise, you risk losing sales, no matter how good your selling techniques are. Customers who don’t have confidence in your product knowledge won’t return to your store or send their friends your way. Once you’ve taken these preparation steps, you’re ready to begin applying the Seven Steps of a Sale. 58 Selling Rings Sales Step 1—Approach the Customer What’s more natural than welcoming customers to your store and finding out what they want to buy? Sales Steps 1 and 2—approaching the customer and exchanging information—might seem simple, but they’re actually the most important parts of the sales process. They set the stage for everything that happens later. Done properly, they make the rest of the process easier and increase your chances of making a sale. You can’t possibly anticipate and prepare for every customer situation that might arise. But many situations are fairly common, so it makes sense to develop and practice ways to respond to them. You can do that by brainstorming and role-playing with your fellow sales associates. Once you’ve come up with approaches you think will work, try them with your customers. Keep the methods that succeed and reject those that fail. Also be aware that what works for another sales associate might not work for you. Take notes and develop your own personal set of successful approaches. You don’t want to sound as if you’re speaking from a memorized script— that sounds unnatural and makes customers wary. But if you understand the principles behind what you’re trying to do, the words and actions will follow. Eric Welch/GIA Rather than being interested in technical information, many women want to spend time developing a relationship with a store or a particular sales associate. Research shows that women generally want to develop a professional relationship with the retail sales associate. Men, on the other hand, generally want to complete the transaction as quickly as possible and move on. Since there are more women professionals in the workforce than ever before, and since women’s jewelry is increasingly a selfpurchase, you’ll want to adjust your sales techniques to address this important, fast-growing market. The approach and information exchange are the most important parts of the sales process. Almost everyone has a built-in resistance to being talked into buying something. When you approach and start talking to your customer, the first thing you have to do is overcome this resistance. For this reason, it’s important that your actions don’t generate a negative response from your customer. Your goal during the approach is to overcome your customer’s built-in sales resistance. KEY CONCEPTS Eric Welch/GIA Many male customers are interested in specific technical features or details of a piece. If the jewelry item meets their specifications, you might be able to complete the transaction quickly. 59 Jewelry Essentials 2 Andy Lucas/GIA Find out as much as you can about your customer and her needs. Ask questions that help you determine if the jewelry is for her or a gift for a loved one. You can also get clues for possible jewelry purchases from the way a person dresses and acts. Consider the Situation KEY CONCEPTS Each customer and each situation requires a different approach. As you approach your customer, there are three things to consider: yourself, your customer, and the circumstances. No matter what the situation, you won’t succeed and be happy in your work if you’re not being yourself. You can be flexible and adapt, you can play up parts of your personality and downplay others, but if you’re not faithful to your true self, chances are you’ll fail. Each customer is different. By observing your customer and mentally noting any outward clues, you can customize your approach and increase your chances of making a good first impression. Your customer’s gender, physical presence, style of dress, grooming, accessories, and demeanor should influence your approach. Your opening lines to a teenage girl, a romantic young couple, a single man, and a grandmotherly woman should certainly be different. Your approach might be influenced by the market level of your store and merchandise, how and where in the store the displays are located, what type of merchandise your customer seems interested in, and whether or not your store has an advertised or in-store sale or special promotion in progress. It can also depend on the weather, the traffic, news events, or any number of other factors. Remember that most customers will try to resist salespeople. Even when they’ve decided to buy, they want to be sure it’s their own choice, not yours. Think of your own reaction as a retail customer. When a salesperson approaches before you ask for help, you probably don’t welcome him or her with open arms. You’re probably wary. You don’t want to be persuaded to buy more than you want or something you don’t want at all. Since most customers probably start out on the defensive, there are two broad types of approaches you can take: the merchandise approach and the friendship approach. 60 Selling Rings Robert Weldon/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA This fabulous tourmaline provides stunning red hues, but it’s more affordable than a ruby of equivalent quality. A client expecting a big price tag might be thrilled by the prospect of owning a piece like this. You can point out that this ring has an unusual mounting, and the central gem has an interesting checkerboard cut. Both features might intrigue a customer. Using the merchandise approach, you might draw a client’s eye to the smooth ruby cabochon that gleams like an ember in this ring. The neat baguette accent diamonds provide a potential talking point, too. The Merchandise Approach Barry took the merchandise approach with Jennifer in the earlier scenario. The choice was easy for him because she asked about the ring when she came in. It was natural and appropriate for him to comment on the ring and ask if she wanted to take a closer look. He empathized with her for having lost the ring her husband had given her. Barry sensed Jennifer knew something about gems and jewelry, so he added facts about the amethysts’ color quality. When Jennifer asked about the stones’ weight, Barry knew he had taken the right approach. Still, he didn’t want to get too technical, so he complimented the stones’ color using imagery that gave the ring romance and mystery. In the end, Jennifer bought the ring, proving Barry had judged the customer and the circumstances well, and had been correct in taking the merchandise approach. The Friendship Approach If Jennifer had not asked about a particular item, Barry might have tried the friendship approach. Its initial purpose is to reduce or eliminate a customer’s resistance by establishing a person-to-person rather than a salesperson-to-customer relationship. This approach starts with your opening line. Always use a friendly greeting followed by an open-ended question. That’s a question that can’t be answered with a simple “yes” or “no.” It encourages your customer to think about and respond to what you’ve asked, and it usually leads to an exchange of information. It should be a non-business question. You want to show sincere, personal interest and relate to your customer as if you’ve found a new friend and you’re curious to know something about her or him. Open-ended question—A question that requires a thoughtful, specific answer other than “yes” or “no.” A good greeting that includes an open-ended question might be something as simple as, “Good morning! The mall is packed today. Where did you find a parking space?” You might comment on something you noticed about your customer: “Hello! I see you’re driving one of those new hybrids. What made you choose it?” Or it could be a comment that compliments the customer’s appearance: “Hi there. Where did you get that great outfit?” The important thing is to start the customer talking. 61 Jewelry Essentials 2 Eric Welch/GIA If you show genuine interest in your customers’ needs and respond effectively to what they say, you’re far more likely to match them to the jewelry piece they’re looking for. Once you’ve engaged your customer in conversation, keep asking questions that follow her lead. The idea is to keep her talking. If given the chance, most people’s favorite topic is themselves. By giving your customer free rein, you can break down her defenses and get the information you need to help her make a purchase. Be a good listener, and always make eye contact. After talking with your customer and establishing a connection, you can move toward doing business. One way to make the transition is by asking, “What brings you into our store today?” Occasionally, your customer will know or have a very good idea about what she wants. This makes a sale fairly easy because your customer has already decided to buy. All you have to do is guide her to the right purchase. You might be able to direct your customer to jewelry that’s more expensive than, or in addition to, what she had in mind, but you’re basically helping her reach a goal she’s already set. I’m Just Looking Often, customers aren’t in your store to buy or aren’t sure what they’re looking for. In either case, they might say “I’m just looking.” Variations might be, “I’m just browsing,” “I just want to see what you have,” “I have some time to kill,” or “I’m waiting for my husband (wife) to finish next door.” These are a customer’s way of saying, “Go away, don’t bother me.” Take-away—A two-part sales technique that removes a customer’s just-looking defense. You can deal with these responses by using a technique called a take-away. Its purpose is to remove the customer’s just-looking defense. It has two parts. First, you give your customer permission to look. Next, you pose an openended question that essentially asks how you can help her look. The exchange might go like this: “What brings you into our store today?” “Oh, nothing special. I’m just looking.” “Looking is important. You might find a treasure. What kind of treasure would you like to find?” 62 Selling Rings Or like this: “What brings you into our store today?” “I had some time to kill.” “Well, jewelry-store browsing is surely a good way to kill time. Is there something you’d like to find before the time runs out?” There will always be those customers who really are just looking and do want you to go away. If they’re determined, there’s not much you can do. You might sense that you and a particular customer aren’t compatible. It’s inevitable that some people, for whatever reason, won’t like you. If you sense that’s the case, you might try a turnover. Turnover—Giving another sales associate a customer you’re not compatible with. To do this, you say something like, “OK, I hope you enjoy looking,” and walk away. Then you ask another sales associate whose looks and manner are completely different from yours to approach the customer and start over. Another effective technique to try with a customer who isn’t shopping for a specific item is to show great enthusiasm about particular pieces in your store. You might have some new merchandise, for example, or uniquely designed pieces, or some items that contain gems that were recently in the news. If you don’t act as if you’re trying to sell something, your customer might share your enthusiasm and buy. Eric Welch/GIA It’s important to pay attention to your customers’ demeanor when they enter your store. Don’t expect the same approach to work every time. 63 Jewelry Essentials 2 Valerie Power/GIA You should try to ask the right questions and listen carefully to your customer’s answers. The information you gain will help you respond to her needs and provide the jewelry she’ll want to buy. Sales Step 2—Exchange Information Most people don’t shop in a jewelry store every day. Many customers are unfamiliar with gems and jewelry and don’t have a clear idea of what they want. Your job is to help them narrow their choices and choose the jewelry that’s right for them. To accomplish this, it helps to ask open-ended questions, listen closely to the answers, and respond accordingly. In the process, you’ll learn what your customer’s tastes and needs are and determine her readiness to buy. The more you know about her, the better you’ll be able to help her choose, and the better chance you’ll have to sell her something at a higher price or even sell her additional merchandise as part of the sale. The more effectively you exchange information at this stage, the less time it’ll take you to complete the sale. Start with broad questions and narrow down to specifics. Find out what category your customer is interested in. Does she want a necklace? A ring? A bracelet? Perhaps a set? Then, within that category, what metal, what gem, what cut, what jewelry design? Then, which specific item? 64 Selling Rings As a jewelry sales associate, you must find out as much as you can about your customer’s needs. You should also provide them with information that will help them select the jewelry pieces that are perfect for them. Eric Welch/GIA As you progress through the questions, try to respond to your customer’s ideas, but also try to steer her toward the most expensive goods you sense she’ll buy and leave open the possibility of additional sales. A Sample Information Exchange After Larry, a jewelry sales associate, approaches his customer, a middleaged woman named Cheryl, the information exchange might go like this: Larry: Are you shopping for yourself or someone else? Cheryl: I’m looking for a gift for my mother. Larry: Is it a special occasion? Cheryl: It’s my parents’ fiftieth wedding anniversary. Larry: That is a special occasion. Would you like gifts for both your parents? Cheryl: No, just something nice for my mom. My father has never worn any kind of jewelry. Larry: Is she especially fond of a certain gemstone or metal? Cheryl: She’s always been fascinated by opals. Larry: I can show you some very nice opal jewelry. The fiftieth is the golden anniversary, of course, so perhaps yellow gold would be the best metal. Do you think your mother might like an opal necklace? 65 Jewelry Essentials 2 KEY CONCEPTS When customers trust you and your store, they’re more likely to buy from you and to tell others about their good experience. Gems and jewelry are attractive to thieves because most items are small and valuable. Cheryl: Not really. The only necklaces she’s ever worn are pearl strands. What about a bracelet? Larry: A bracelet might not be such a good idea. Opals aren’t hard and durable enough to be worn on the wrist. But I can show you a lovely black opal brooch. It’s beautifully designed in yellow gold. Cheryl: Oh, it is lovely! But its size tells me it’s beyond my budget. Larry: Well, we do have these matching earrings. Do you think your mother would like them? Cheryl: They’re perfect! Although I still wonder if the price is too high. Note that Larry started by using the word “shopping” rather than the more intimidating word “buying.” He didn’t ask how much Cheryl wanted to spend, which is never a good idea because it’s too limiting, and he didn’t dwell on price. Note also that he framed his questions according to what the gift recipient, rather than the gift buyer, might like. During this short exchange, Larry skillfully accomplished several things: He determined that Cheryl was shopping for a gift for her mother’s fiftieth wedding anniversary. He tried to include a gift for her father but found that wasn’t his customer’s intention. He learned that Cheryl’s mother was fond of opals. He suggested and got no resistance to yellow gold. He learned that her mother probably wouldn’t want an opal necklace. Objection—A temporary obstacle, raised by the customer, that delays or even stops the sale. Word of mouth—Spoken information passed from person to person. Scam—A fraudulent business scheme or swindle. He gave good reasons for discouraging an opal bracelet. He knew he had a very expensive black opal and yellow gold brooch and more affordable matching earrings in stock, so he offered the brooch first, knowing if she refused it he could fall back to the earrings. Cheryl then raised a price objection that might have delayed or even stopped the sale. Fortunately, Larry was ready to move to the next step, Build Value, and to respond to his customer’s hesitation about price. You’ll learn about this step in the next assignment. Underlying this exchange of information is a very important point: Larry is establishing and building trust. When customers trust sales associates and a store, they buy, they return, and they tell others about their good experience by spreading favorable word of mouth. Store Security n What types of theft are jewelry retailers vulnerable to? n How can you help prevent thefts and scams? Gems and jewelry are particularly attractive to thieves because they’re small and valuable. After all, it’s much easier to steal, conceal, and sell a valuable diamond than, say, a luxury automobile. Joel Beeson/GIA It's good policy to keep everyone locked out of your place of business before and after business hours--even delivery personnel. You should also always ask for identification from people you don't know. 66 As a beginning sales associate, you’ll probably work in a store where the security system and procedures were established before you started, and modified over time to be as effective as possible. Sales associates’ security roles vary from store to store, and learning yours will be part of your preemployment or on-the-job training. As you gain experience, you might be able to suggest changes if you find areas where security might be improved. A retail store is vulnerable to several types of theft. These include burglary, robbery, smash-and-grab, shoplifting, and fraudulent schemes called scams. Selling Rings Eric Welch/GIA Most stores make sure that jewelry that exceeds a certain value is removed from window displays and stored securely in a safe overnight. Burglary, Theft, and Robbery Burglars work when stores are closed. You see the results of the break-in but not the burglars themselves. Most jewelry stores have alarm systems and other security devices. A simple prevention measure is to empty cases and window displays and store the items in a safe at night. Smash-and-grab thieves rely on surprise and speed. They smash a store window or display case, grab as much merchandise as they can, and flee. They steal and disappear, sometimes in seconds. Many stores use shatter-resistant glass to deter smash-and-grab thieves. It’s one of several ways to prevent or minimize losses. Another method is to spread the most expensive items around the store. That way, a thief who breaks into a case won’t steal all the best pieces. Also, smash-and-grab thieves tend to take what’s easiest to reach, so another deterrent is to keep expensive items toward the back of a window display. 67 Jewelry Essentials 2 Joel Beeson/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Emptying window displays of merchandise helps discourage thieves from breaking windows to rob the store at night. In-store security systems range from simple store safes to complex systems like this one. At night, the shelf in the display cabinet lowers and a steel panel slides over the valuables so they don't have to be moved. Robbery is a face-to-face confrontation with a thief who is usually armed and agitated. The Jewelers’ Security Alliance, a US organization dedicated to the protection of jewelers and their businesses, suggests this behavior in a robbery: • Do what the robbers say • Don’t do or say anything other than what the robbers tell you • Don’t try to disarm a robber or reach for a weapon or alarm activator • Assume the robber will not hesitate to shoot • Expect to be threatened, bound, and locked up • Stay calm KEY CONCEPTS During a robbery, stay calm and obey the robber’s orders. The risk of a robbery is highest during opening and closing. 68 Statistics show that you’re five times more likely to be killed or wounded if you resist a robber. Trying to use a weapon against an armed criminal is both dangerous and ineffective. Don’t try to be a hero. Merchandise is replaceable, but your life and the lives of others are not. The risk of a robbery increases when you’re opening or closing a store. Most stores have procedures that can protect you, so always follow them. Ideally, you should never have to open or close by yourself. While you’re locking or unlocking the doors, someone should stand a short distance away to watch for any suspicious characters in the area. Then, when you first walk into the store, lock the door behind you. Do the same when you’re preparing the store for closing at night. Selling Rings Shoplifting For every $1 lost to burglars and robbers, the jewelry industry loses $300 to shoplifters. As a sales associate, you’ll have more contact with shoplifters than any other store employee has, whether you know the thieves are stealing or not. You can help protect against shoplifting by making sure you never leave merchandise unattended. Always lock the display cases after showing and replacing jewelry items, and keep the keys with you. It’s also important to set up the displays so they’re easy to check. If a case is crowded, it’s hard to tell if anything is missing. When you set up a ring tray, fill every space, either with a ring or a placeholder that’s unique to the store and easy to recognize. Arrange the rings in a geometric pattern so anyone can tell at a glance if one is missing. It’s helpful to map the displays and to keep the maps current. Show only one item at a time when you’re helping a customer make a selection. If you have several items out on a counter, it’s easier for a thief to steal or switch an item, or to grab them all and run. And make sure the same person who takes an item out of the case is responsible for returning it. That way, there’s no doubt who’s handling a particular item, and it’s easier to keep track. Pay close attention to your customers. Make eye contact with and greet everyone who comes into your store. Besides being a good sales technique, it discourages thieves because they immediately know you’re aware of them. Making a habit of this allows you to create a mental picture of anyone who looks suspicious. Focus on features like gender, age, and height rather than changeable things like clothes. If you have suspicions, signal the other employees by using a prearranged code word or phrase. KEY CONCEPTS A code word or phrase can help you alert your co-workers to suspicious behavior. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Many jewelry stores have extensive inventories. Preventing losses from shoplifting is a major challenge. Be sure to keep track of all the jewelry items you show a customer during a potential sale. 69 Jewelry Essentials 2 Shutterstock Make sure you follow your store’s guidelines for accepting credit card payments. It’s one way of guarding against scams. Scams A scam is a fraudulent scheme used to make money by dishonest means. It looks like a legitimate business transaction, but one of the parties involved is being deceitful. Your store probably has very specific procedures to help protect against scams. Scams sometimes involve bad checks. Even if you verify a check with the customer’s bank or use a bank’s instant electronic check verification service, there’s nothing to stop a scammer from stopping payment. This even applies to cashier’s checks, which many people think are foolproof. Identity theft is a type of scam that has become quite common. You might encounter a customer who represents himself or herself as someone else and uses that person’s credit cards and forms of identification to illicitly buy gems and jewelry. Immediately be suspicious of an unfamiliar customer who is casually or quickly spending a great deal of money. Asking for at least two forms of identification and checking them closely is one way to protect yourself and your store. Switching stones is another common scam. You might show a dishonest customer an expensive ruby and wind up with an inexpensive garnet because your customer distracted your attention and switched stones. In this assignment, you learned about rings and the beginning stages of the selling process. You also learned that store security awareness is an important part of your job. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about earrings, necklaces, bracelets, brooches, and pins, and then move on to Sales Step 3: Build Value. 70 Selling Rings The USA Patriot Act Suppose a first-time customer comes into your store and, with no comparison shopping or questions, buys the most expensive piece in your inventory for cash. As you write out the receipt for $136,000, the customer hesitates to give a name and address. Would you be suspicious? Would you wonder if you were taking part in an illegal transaction? Since January 1, 2006, jewelry trade members have had to comply with certain provisions of the USA Patriot Act that before that date applied only to financial institutions. The purpose of those provisions was to guard against terrorists and other criminals laundering illegally gained cash by buying gemstones, precious metals, and jewelry, and then converting those universally valuable items back into cash, making the cash look legitimate. The USA Patriot Act requires certain trade members to establish antimoney-laundering programs within their businesses. The provisions are complex and require close study to understand and implement. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee put together a compliance kit that—for a fee—guides trade members through the maze and provides helpful forms. You’ll find details on their Web site at www.jvclegal.org. As an alternative, you can check the US Treasury Department’s Web site at www.fincen.gov. KEY CONCEPTS A setting’s primary purpose is to hold a gem securely. Your goal during the approach is to overcome your customer’s built-in sales resistance. Engagement and wedding rings are almost always set with diamonds. Each customer and each situation requires a different approach. Modern three-stone jewelry is promoted to represent the past, present, and future of a relationship. When customers trust you and your store, they’re more likely to buy from you and to tell others about their good experience. Your appearance should be appropriate for your store and clientele. Knowledge of your store’s merchandise is essential to sales success. The approach and information exchange are the most important parts of the sales process. Gems and jewelry are attractive to thieves because most items are small and valuable. During a robbery, stay calm and obey the robber’s orders. The risk of a robbery is highest during opening and closing. A code word or phrase can help you alert your co-workers to suspicious behavior. 71 Jewelry Essentials 2 Key Terms Anniversary band—Ring with a row of gems of the same size and cut. Invisible setting—Setting style with grooved gems set between metal rails that hold them in place. Ballerina ring—A ring that looks like a ballerina’s tutu, with a central stone encircled by rectangular diamonds. Mother’s ring—Ring personalized with children’s birthstones. Bead setting—Setting style with gems held in place by rounded beads, usually pushed up from the surrounding metal. Bezel—A thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold it in place. Birthstone—Gem associated with the month in which a person was born. Bypass (crossover) ring—Ring where the ends of the shank pass each other rather than meeting at the head. Objection—A temporary obstacle, raised by the customer, that delays or even stops the sale. Open-ended question—A question that requires a thoughtful, specific answer other than “yes” or “no.” Pavé setting—Bead setting with many small gems placed close together, often in a honeycomb pattern. Right-hand ring—A diamond ring promoted as a selfpurchase and worn on a woman’s right hand to signify independence and power. Saddle ring—Hololith with a decoratively carved top. Cabochon—A smoothly rounded polished gem with a domed top and a flat or curved base. Scam—A fraudulent business scheme or swindle. Channel setting—Setting style with gems held in grooves, or channels. Semi-mount—A setting with side gems and space for a center stone of the customer’s choosing. Cluster ring—Ring with a group of small stones set closely together or a large central gem surrounded by several smaller ones. Shank—The part of a ring that fits around the finger. Cocktail ring—A flashy, oversized ring, often set with lessexpensive gems. Engagement ring—Ring set with a gem, usually a diamond, given to signify an intention to marry. Eternity ring—Ring encircled with a row of closely matched gems. Findings—Small components used to make or repair jewelry. Flush setting—Setting style with a gem set directly into the metal with its table at the same level as the metal surface. Signet ring—A flat-topped ring that might be engraved with initials or other unique insignia. Solitaire—Jewelry piece with one main gem, typically a diamond. Take-away—A two-part sales technique that removes a customer’s just-looking defense. Tension setting—Setting with gem held in place by pressure between opposing pieces of platinum or karat gold. Trio—Matched ensemble consisting of an engagement ring, a woman’s wedding ring, and a man’s wedding band. Turnover—Giving another sales associate a customer you’re not compatible with. Guard—A ring worn to enclose and enhance another ring; also a bar secured across a ring’s shank to reduce its diameter and keep it from sliding off. Wedding ring—A ring, usually a plain band, worn by someone who is married. Head—The part of a mounting into which the main gems are set. Wedding set (duo)—A pair consisting of a woman’s matched engagement and wedding rings. Hololith—Jewelry carved entirely from a single gemstone, often jade. Word of mouth—Spoken information passed from person to person. Illusion setting—Stone set within a metal rim that makes the stone look bigger. Wrap—A ring designed to dress up a second ring, which is often a solitaire. 72 Selling Rings Questions for Review n What are the two main parts of a ring? n What’s the most popular gemstone for engagement, wedding, and anniversary rings? n What are some best-selling ring styles? n What steps should you take to prepare for selling? n Why is your first greeting essential to your later success? n How do you obtain the information you need to sell to an individual customer? n What types of theft are jewelry retailers vulnerable to? n How can you help prevent thefts and scams? 73 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins 3 Necklaces and Chains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Necklace Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Neck Chain Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Bracelets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Bracelet Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Cuffs and Bangles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Earrings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Earring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Brooches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Brooch Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Sales Step 3—Build Value. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Demonstrating Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Emotional and Tangible Value . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Use a Positive Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Questions for Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 75 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 3. With the knowledge you gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to: • Identify a wide variety of necklace and neck chain styles and lengths. • Define bracelet, earring, and brooch styles. • Demonstrate the operation of various types of jewelry clasps. • Address the emotional and tangible aspects of jewelry value. 76 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Vianna Joias Although rings are the most widely sold jewelry articles, necklaces and earrings are also very popular. Tourmaline and peridot accent this coordinated suite. Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Diana was smiling to herself as she entered the jewelry store. Alice, one of the store’s sales associates, noticed her and approached her in a friendly way. Alice said, “You look very pleased with yourself. What brings you into our store?” “I am,” Diana replied. “My boss gave me a promotion and a raise this morning, and I’m here to find something nice to celebrate the occasion.” “Congratulations! And I think I have just the thing that will help you do that,” said Alice. She had quickly assessed Diana’s coloring, which was nicely complemented by her choice of a tastefully cut business suit. She also noticed that Diana’s only jewelry was a lovely pair of earrings with small stones that looked like red garnets. These observations gave her an idea of what would be suitable. She led Diana to a glass display case on the opposite side of the store and pointed to a beautiful 18-karat gold necklace set with a ruby cabochon. Alice pointed out the highly polished gem. “It’s a ruby,” she said. “Isn’t the color lovely?” 77 Jewelry Essentials 3 “Yes, it is,” Diana replied warmly. “But I’ve never owned a ruby. I’m sure it’s much too expensive.” Alice knew that this was a specific price objection that she couldn’t ignore. She also knew that a good way to turn a price objection around is to emphasize value. “Actually, this ruby is an excellent value,” Alice said. “Really?” Diana replied. “What makes it an excellent value?” “The finest rubies are faceted, natural, and untreated,” Alice replied. “And you’re right, they’re rare and very expensive. But this ruby is a cabochon and it’s also heat treated. It has the look of a fine-quality ruby, but it actually reduces your cost in two ways.” “Two ways?” Diana asked. Israel Itzkowitz Each of these heart-shaped pendants contains 21 square or radiant-cut gems, all expertly matched and set. “Yes,” Alice replied. “A cabochon is less expensive than a faceted stone. And heat treatment permanently improves the color and clarity to give a good-quality ruby a fine-quality look.” As Diana paused to consider this, Alice unlocked the case, took the necklace out, and laid it carefully on the counter pad. Then she suggested, “Here, just try it on.” Diana took the piece from Alice, draped it around her neck, and turned to let Alice fasten the clasp. As Diana turned back around, Alice adjusted the counter mirror so they both could see the necklace. “Oh, the color is perfect for you,” Alice said. “Don’t you agree?” “Yes, I like it very much,” Diana replied. “But I’ve been told to be careful with some of my other jewelry—that gems can scratch or fall out of their mountings. Can that happen with this ruby?” “Ruby is the second hardest gem after diamond,” Alice replied, “so unless you abuse it, it won’t scratch. And a high-quality bezel setting like this is unlikely to fail. But if it does, it’s guaranteed—we’ll repair it free.” Satisfied with Alice’s responses to her concerns, Diana smiled to herself as she turned back and forth to admire her new necklace in the counter mirror. Necklaces and Chains Strand—A simple necklace typically composed of pearls or beads. Pendant—An ornament or gem suspended from a strand, band, or chain. Choker—A short, fairly tight-fitting necklace that hugs the throat. Collar—A wide necklace worn above the collarbone. 78 n What are the most common necklace lengths? n What has caused the increased popularity of cultured pearl strands? n What are some popular chain styles? In simple terms, a necklace is an ornament worn around the neck. But a necklace can take a variety of forms. It can be a strand of pearls or beads, a band of precious metal with or without gems, a chain decorated with gems or other objects, or an ornamental pendant suspended from a strand, band, or chain. Necklace lengths also vary. Neck chains are available in several standard lengths: 16 in. (40 cm), 18 in. (45 cm), 20 in. (50 cm), 24 in. (60 cm), 30 in. (75 cm), and 36 in. (90 cm). Other popular necklace lengths include the choker, a short, fairly tight-fitting necklace that hugs the throat, and the collar, a wide necklace worn above the collarbone. Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Eric Welch/GIA This contemporary yellow gold and gem-set necklace reproduces a traditional style from India. Cultured Pearl Association of America, Inc. Vianna Joias The pearl strand is a classic and flexible style that can coordinate with a variety of outfits. These uniquely contoured pearls— called baroques—are highly fashionable today. This bold pendant showcases different quartz gemstones in rich earth tones. A rough leather strap completes the “earthy” look. Alexandra Hart/Adam Bujnowski Sylvia Bissonette This handmade silver necklace has cast bronze accents. It’s a collar style that’s worn above the collarbone. A choker is designed to fit tightly around the wearer’s neck. 79 Jewelry Essentials 3 Necklace lengths 16″ chain 18″ chain 20″ chain 24″ chain 30″ chain 36″ chain Peter Johnston/GIA Necklaces and chains come in several standard lengths for daytime to evening wear. Necklace Styles The pendant necklace is very popular with both men and women. The pendant is often attached with a piece of metal called a bail. There’s also a type of pendant that fits directly onto the chain without a bail. It’s called a slide. The diamond solitaire pendant necklace is a best seller in today’s market. The diamond can be any size and shape, and it’s often prong-set, but might be bezel-set. Bail—The piece of metal that attaches a pendant to a chain or strand. Slide—A pendant that attaches directly to a chain without a bail. Enhancer—A removable pendant designed to accent a strand of beads or cultured pearls. Station necklace—A necklace with gems, cultured pearls, or beads positioned at regular intervals. 80 The cultured pearl strand is another popular style. Its popularity has risen with increases in the number of types of cultured pearls in the marketplace. The traditional cream and white colors of akoya cultured pearls have been supplemented by deeply hued Tahitian and golden South Sea cultured pearls, and Chinese freshwater cultured pearls in exciting new hues. Some necklaces consist of multiple strands layered or twisted together. A bead or pearl strand might also feature an enhancer—a removable pendant that clips onto the strand to give it a different look. The station necklace features gems, beads, or cultured pearls at regularly spaced intervals on cord, chain, or wire. The intervals are called stations. Tiffany’s popular Diamonds by the Yard is a classic station necklace, with round brilliant diamonds spaced along a gold or platinum chain. Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins The soft shimmer of pearls and a classically inspired yellow gold mounting partner perfectly with bezel-set colored gems in this double strand necklace. It’s accompanied by matching earrings. Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Two diamond solitaires are paired in this delicate necklace. The larger diamonds’ yellow color adds interest to the piece. In this contemporary interpretation of a station necklace, dark Tahitian cultured pearls punctuate a chunky white gold chain. Susan Sadler Fine Jewelry Design Frank Centrilla Vianna Joias A bold red tourmaline enhancer adds contrast and sparkle to a seawater blue necklace made from tumbled rough aquamarine. A parade of round brilliant diamonds range from small to large in this necklace. This style is marketed as a journey necklace. Quartz gems range from strong purple amethyst to the faintest rosy blush in this big, bold designer necklace. 81 Jewelry Essentials 3 Vianna Joias The market encompasses a great variety of chain designs and finishes. Chain necklaces often combine different gold alloy colors and textures. This unique necklace rests on the shoulders. An artisan fashioned each large link individually. Neck Chain Styles Personal adornment with neck chains has a long history. They were especially popular in the Renaissance and Victorian eras. Early artisans fashioned chains by hand. Hand fabrication means each link must be individually shaped, attached to the next link, and soldered shut, making this a labor-intensive and expensive process. Some of today’s designers still use hand fabrication to create unique chains with intricate patterns, and links in unusual abstract shapes. Even so, most modern chains are machine-made. The unadorned chain comes in styles for both men and women. A typical chain is a series of linked loops of metal wire, but it might consist of connected balls or disks instead. The curb link chain is a jewelry store basic. The style consists of oval links that are twisted and then flattened so the chain lies flat. Curb link chains are strong yet flexible, and they’re usually easy to repair. Curb link chain—Chain style with flattened oval links. Figaro chain—Type of curb link chain with a repeating pattern of long and short links. Rope chain—Solid or hollow chain that usually has oval links and resembles a woven rope. 82 The figaro chain is a fashionable variation on the curb link chain. The classic figaro chain consists of three short links between each pair of long links. Other figaro styles have a similar repeating pattern, but the number of short links varies. Rope chains usually consist of attached segments of two or more oval links each. This classic style, which resembles woven rope, offers a substantial, opulent look, especially in wider widths. The links of a rope chain might be solid or hollow, and they sometimes feature small flat surfaces that give them extra sparkle. Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins GIA & Tino Hammid Robert Weldon/GIA The individual links in this hefty chain have a distinctive hammered finish. The texture contrasts nicely with the satiny luster of the pearls. At the heart of this special necklace is an 18K gold chain. A tapestry of green garnets, tourmalines, peridots, and cultured pearls hang like charms from its links. KEY CONCEPTS Most modern chains are machine-made. Shutterstock Substantial feel and rich yellow color make this chain especially desirable. This pattern of interlocking links is called herringbone. Box chains are made up of angular links joined together by solid metal squares. The combination gives the chain the appearance of a succession of tiny boxes. Box chain—A chain consisting of angular links joined by solid metal squares. At first glance, omega chains look like hoops of solid metal. Closer inspection reveals tightly joined, diagonal segments that let the chain flex and conform to the shape of the wearer’s neck. Omega chain—A flexible chain consisting of tightly joined diagonal segments. 83 Jewelry Essentials 3 Bracelets KEY CONCEPTS Bracelets are among the earliest personal adornments. n What is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles? n Which bracelet types are rigid rather than flexible? Bracelets are among the earliest adornments. In ancient Egypt, men and women frequently wore gold bands or twisted gold wire on their wrists and upper arms. Early bracelets were often decorated with figures of snakes or sphinxes. Bracelets remained popular until the fall of the Roman Empire (476 AD), when the long sleeves worn in the Middle Ages (476 AD to 1517 AD) sent them into obscurity. Bracelets didn’t become fashionable again until the 1800s. ©Getty Images, Mimmo Jodice/photography Bracelets have been popular since the time of the Roman Empire. This gold bracelet from Pompeii features a common motif—a serpent’s head. ©GIA & Tino Hammid/photography ©GIA & Tino Hammid/photography In the 1800s, Victorian designers revived many bracelet styles. This flexible bracelet is a reinterpretation of earlier Greek and Roman motifs. This is also a Victorian revival of Greco-Roman style, with a trio of classically inspired carvings in layered agate. 84 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Robert Weldon/GIA Uwe Wruck This 22K yellow gold and pearl bracelet features a safety chain that provides extra security if the clasp accidentally unfastens or breaks. A contemporary designer united the simplicity of older diamond cuts with smooth yellow gold settings for a sleek look. Each bracelet holds 18 old-mine cut diamonds, for a total gem weight of almost 75 carats. This bracelet showcases natural-color cultured pearls strung with multicolored sapphires in 18K green gold mountings. 85 Jewelry Essentials 3 Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA These playful and inexpensive silver bracelets incorporate chunky tablets encrusted with glittering tiny crystals. Their iridescent appearance is caused by a thin metal coating applied in a laboratory. Rich purple enamel provides contrast for a striking yellow gold abstract design. Except for the clasps, each link is identical. They were produced using the lost-wax casting process. Bracelet Styles Some bracelet styles might be set with gems. Others might display the beauty of precious metal alone. Some bracelets are flexible, while others are rigid. A bracelet might be a simple chain worn around the wrist, and it’s often paired with a matching neck chain. Chain bracelets are worn by both men and women. Curb link chains, for example, are often used in traditional men’s and women’s identification bracelets. The typical length for a woman’s chain bracelet is about 7 in. (18 cm). Bracelets might be made in other lengths to be worn around the upper arm or ankle. Tennis bracelet—A flexible bracelet set with a line of small matched gems, typically diamonds. The diamond tennis bracelet is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles. It’s a flexible band of precious metal set with small faceted gems— typically diamonds. The gems are matched in size and set in a line that encircles the wrist. The tennis bracelet is actually the classic straight-line bracelet with a new name. It got that name from champion tennis player Chris Evert. Evert’s diamond straight-line bracelet slipped off during a televised tennis match. She stopped the match to retrieve it, calling it her “tennis bracelet,” and the name became part of jewelry history. 86 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Hamilton Jewelers Large gems in pastel colors give this bracelet style and heft. The piece is accented with a diamond-set clasp. Eric Welch/GIA This upscale diamond line bracelet features colorless emerald cuts and larger yellow radiant-cut gems. Peter Krasilnikoff Charm bracelets are still popular today. They’re easily customized by the wearer, who can add charms to celebrate important life events. Charm bracelets are decorated with one or more small ornaments, or charms, which might be beads or cast metal figures, and are sometimes set with cultured pearls or gems. Many bracelets come with the charms already attached, but some allow the wearer to buy charms separately and add them. Charm bracelet—A bracelet consisting of one or more small attached ornaments. 87 Jewelry Essentials 3 These flexible cuffs are crafted of stainless steel rather than white gold. Both have 18K yellow gold end pieces, and one is accented with diamonds. Tino Hammid/GIA These bracelets feature white gold and pavé-set diamonds. This flexible 18K yellow gold cuff in the crossover style is enriched by scores of beautiful diamonds. It was produced by jewelry design house Van Cleef & Arpels around 1945. Hamilton Jewelers This beautifully finished 18K yellow gold bracelet features a delicate scroll design accented with clusters of tiny diamonds. 88 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Shutterstock Valerie Power/GIA These high-karat yellow gold bangles display an arresting degree of luster and color. To some consumers, silver is appealing because of the metal’s antique appearance. It’s apparent in these tribal bangles from India. Cuffs and Bangles Cuff and bangle bracelets are rigid rather than flexible. Cuffs can be wide or narrow bands, and they’re C-shaped to fit over the wrist or arm. Popular with the ancients, today they are often plain, brightly polished metal. Cuffs might have filigree or openwork designs. Filigree is designed with thin, intricately interlaced wire. Openwork is similar, with holes that allow the passage of light, sometimes through a gem or gems. A bangle bracelet can be circular or oval. It might also be a square or other angular shape. Most bangles are made of precious metal, but they can also be fashioned from jadeite, nephrite, or a combination of materials. Jade bangles are often hololiths, carved from a single piece of rough. Women sometimes wear several bangles stacked together. Bangles can slip on over the hand or open and close by means of hinge and clasp mechanisms. Hinged bangles usually have short safety chains to keep them from falling off if their clasps open accidentally. Bangles, like cuffs, can be ornate or plain, with or without gems. Cuff bracelet—A C-shaped band that fits over the wrist or arm. Bangle bracelet—A rigid, sometimes hinged, bracelet that slips over the wrist. Filigree—A design made with thin, intricately interlaced wire. Openwork—A design with open areas that allow the passage of light, sometimes through gems. Screwback—A device that secures an earring to an earlobe with a flatended screw. Earrings n What factors have influenced earring design and use over the years? n Which earring types are popular today? Earrings come in many shapes and sizes, and these face-framing ornaments have been part of every culture. Earrings of ancient Greece—some representing boats, animal heads, or supernatural figures—are especially fine examples of classical design. Over the centuries, earring design has changed many times in response to fashion and hairstyles. Earrings might be attached by a wire that passes through a hole pierced through the earlobe or grip a non-pierced earlobe with a clip or screwback. The screwback consists of a screw with a flat end that tightens against the earlobe. 89 Jewelry Essentials 3 Claire Bersani These classically inspired earrings feature red garnet cabochons and freshwater cultured pearls. © Michael Good Constantine Rota These earrings blend 22K yellow gold and bronze for a totally unique look. They’re formed from flat ribbons of metal, which are worked by hand into spirals. Earrings provide a rich variety of styles to choose from. A cascade of tiny diamonds in this pair adds grace and sparkle. Vianna Joias Tino Hammid/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA A coordinated look can be achieved by combining earrings with a matching necklace or pendant. The bold combination of lighter and darker gem colors is a contemporary jewelry fashion trend. Linked platinum rings set with round brilliants add drama to simple diamond studs in these earrings. These earrings feature Tahitian cultured pearls in enameled 18K yellow gold mountings. They’re secured in the wearer’s ears by long curved wire backs. 90 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Hoop earrings are perennial favorites. This modern interpretation boasts 18K white gold mountings and natural pearls accented with tiny diamonds. Like pearl strands, pearl studs are classic jewelry items. They can complement virtually any outfit. These amethyst earrings show typical stud styling, with smooth metal posts secured by removable butterfly clutches. Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Hamilton Jewelers These 18K white gold drop earrings feature two checkerboard-cut blue topaz gems and 0.59 carats of diamonds. Pearls are the perfect choice for drop earrings. This matched pair of South Sea cultured pearls shares 18K white gold mountings with diamonds and marquisecut rubies. Contrasting colored gems in pastel shades and bolder hues create an eyecatching display in these colorful earrings. Earring Styles The hoop earring is one of the oldest types. The popular modern version is made of tubing, solid wire, or a band that dangles in a hoop-like arc from the earlobe. Hoops come in many sizes and styles. They might be all metal or set with gems. Unlike hoops, stud earrings don’t dangle, but nestle against the earlobe. A post passes through the pierced earlobe, and a butterfly clutch—also called a friction back—slips onto the post and locks the earring in place. The post might also be threaded to screw into the clutch or be designed to slide into a spring-loaded clip. Stud earrings are sometimes plain metal, but many styles feature prongset or bezel-set gems or cultured pearls. Diamond stud earrings are very popular, especially as wedding, anniversary, or birthday gifts. The addition of an earring jacket can enhance the look of a stud earring. Earring jackets are detachable ornaments that surround or otherwise adorn stud earrings to create a different look. Drop earrings—earrings with one or more dangling ornaments—were popular during the seventeenth century and parts of the eighteenth century. They were usually elaborate, made of enameled gold and richly set with pearls or diamonds. Drop earrings are still popular today. Hoop earring—A dangling, circular earring made from solid wire or tubing. Stud earring—An earring with a small ornament or gem on a post, designed to nestle against the earlobe. Post—The part of an earring that passes through a pierced earlobe. Butterfly clutch—A fitting that slips onto the back of a post to hold an earring in place. Earring jacket—A detachable ornament that surrounds or otherwise adorns a stud earring. Drop earring—An earring with one or more dangling ornaments. 91 Jewelry Essentials 3 Body Jewelry People have been piercing their bodies and adorning them with jewelry for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Even so, body jewelry is a fairly modern addition to the jewelry trade. This unusual category is more accurately described as body-piercing jewelry. In Assignment 1, you learned that certain metals— titanium, niobium, and stainless steel, for example— are used for body jewelry because they are hypoallergenic. Manufacturers use these metals, often accompanied by lab-grown or natural gemstones, to design jewelry that wearers insert in pierced navels, nipples, nostrils, lips, eyebrows, tongues, and other body parts. The jewelry can be as simple as a post or as elaborate as a circle or two of metal embellished with a bejeweled pendant or slide. Body-piercing jewelry is also made from organic and manmade materials, including bone, coral, horn, amber, wood, glass, acrylic, and polyester. This body jewelry clasp features emeralds in white gold. The wearer can choose a charm to finish the piece. Body jewelry can be of fine quality. This example features a 4.23-ct. tourmaline drop and a palladium clasp. Brooches Brooch (pin)—Jewelry piece that attaches to a garment, often by a hinged pin and catch. Stickpin—A long, straight pin with an ornamental top. Tie tack—A short, ornamental pin that pierces and decorates a man’s tie. n What is one of the oldest pin styles? n What are some popular brooch design themes? Long ago, people used brooches, or pins, to keep their clothing in place, making them practical as well as ornamental. Today, buttons, zippers, and hook-and-loop fasteners like Velcro serve this purpose, and pins are worn primarily as ornaments. In Japan, they still serve both purposes by decorating ladies’ ceremonial kimonos and also holding the folds of clothing in place. Brooch Styles One of the simplest and oldest pin styles is the stickpin. This long, straight pin typically features an ornamental top with an animal motif or other design, a gemstone, or a cultured pearl. The pin might have a safety catch that grips the pinpoint at the other end. Women wear stickpins in scarves or lapels. The version for men—sometimes called a tie pin—decorates a man’s necktie. A tie tack is a more modern version of the stick pin. It consists of a short pin that pierces the tie and secures at the back with a safety catch. The catch sometimes fits through a shirt buttonhole with a bar and chain that hold the tie against the shirt. The tie tack is often set with a gem that appears to float against the tie when the tie tack is in place. 92 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins GIA & Tino Hammid Valerie Power/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA This buckle brooch from the 1920s uses colored gems to portray an Egyptian motif against a diamond pavé background. Its wearer might use it alone or to secure a fashionable scarf or shawl. Green enamel lends color to the clover design of this crescent brooch. Tiny diamonds at the center of each cloverleaf add a dash of sparkle. These graceful contemporary butterfly brooches feature a multitude of rare gems, including emerald, spinel, sphene, and natural pearls. Robert Weldon/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Animal designs are common in pins and brooches. This antique French example features a fierce eagle with outstretched wings. This bar-shaped brooch is from the early 1900s. At its center is a delicate pale blue sapphire. Bar brooches were popular for lapel wear or for securing a scarf. This brooch from the 1800s uses circle and leaf motifs, both of which were popular at the time. It’s accented with seed pearls and diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA This spectacular stylized lion brooch incorporates pink coral, amethysts, emeralds, and diamonds. Stickpins secure scarves or decorate lapels. This example—in the Art Nouveau style—shows a woman’s head in profile, with a tiny diamond accent in her hair. This more natural interpretation of a lion is crafted of high-karat yellow gold, which lends color and texture to the design. A scattering of tiny gems adds sparkle and a touch of realism to the branch below. 93 Jewelry Essentials 3 Robert Weldon/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA A glorious velvety purple amethyst is at the center of this Victorian gold and pearl “sunburst” brooch. It can be converted into a pendant. In this brooch, an orange flame of carved fire opal erupts from the dragon’s mouth. The dragon’s head is engraved yellow gold. The designer used a wide range of gems, including green sapphires, tsavorite garnets, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds. As more women started entering the work force in the 1970s, the brooch became a popular lapel ornament. Brooches come in a variety of shapes, including circles, bows, flowers, geometric shapes, and even insect and animal designs. Brooches are styled with and without gems. Their designs can be sweet and sentimental or bold and abstract. Some brooches, especially in estate or vintage jewelry, have a dangling cultured pearl, pendant, or tassel. Most brooches fasten to a dress or lapel by means of a pin and safety catch. The jewelry styles you’ve learned about so far represent a small portion of the constantly changing world of jewelry fashion. The best way to stay informed about jewelry trends is by reading trade and fashion magazines. Robert Weldon/GIA This beautiful orchid brooch combines 24K yellow gold, platinum, yellow sapphires, and diamonds. KEY CONCEPTS Trade and fashion magazines can help you keep up with constantly changing jewelry trends. Sales Step 3—Build Value n What’s the best way to demonstrate jewelry for a customer? n What are the two types of value you can use in a sales presentation? n How do you develop a positive approach? In the approach and information exchange steps, you met your customer, welcomed her to your store, and started a dialogue. You encouraged your customer to talk. By doing that, you learned something about her and what she’s shopping for. You eased or overcame her defenses, and you began to build trust. You also helped her narrow her choices. Now it’s time to demonstrate jewelry, to build value, and to overcome any objections she might have. Demonstrating Jewelry To build value, it’s important to demonstrate the jewelry rather than merely show it. You should involve your customer in the demonstration by letting her try the jewelry on. Give her a mirror so she can see how it looks. If looking at the stone or stones through a loupe or microscope helps, give your customer access to those tools. 94 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Valerie Power/GIA Once a customer tries on a piece of jewelry, she can start to imagine what it would be like to own it. Valerie Power/GIA Once you’ve determined the kind of jewelry your customer is looking for, it’s time to let her try on a few pieces. Use your product knowledge to be sure your demonstration provides plenty of information. This is where you introduce the jewelry’s features and benefits. Make sure to pair features with benefits. For example, extreme hardness is a diamond feature. Long wear and high resistance to scratching are its corresponding benefits. Always pair features with their corresponding benefits. People make buying decisions basetd on benefits, not features. Customers want answers to the questions, “What’s in it for me?” and “What benefits does this product provide me?” People make buying decisions based on benefits, not features. Since you’ve exchanged information with your customer, you have some idea of the benefits she expects from the jewelry she might buy. Therefore, you can tailor the features and benefits you mention to meet your customer’s specific needs. Emotional and Tangible Value KEY CONCEPTS Tailor the feature and benefit information to your customer’s needs. A jewelry piece’s value can be both emotional and tangible. The value of a jewelry piece can be both emotional and tangible, so it’s important to address both. Since a jewelry purchase almost always involves emotion, begin with that and follow with the jewelry’s tangible value. For example, in the scenario that opened this assignment, Alice led with the emotional value of Diana’s potential purchase by congratulating her and suggesting that she had just the piece to commemorate her good news. Alice gave the jewelry personal value for her customer by linking it to her reason for buying. Alice had noticed Diana’s hair and complexion and her attentiveness to color coordination, so she chose a piece with a feature whose principal benefit was its red color. Alice also concluded that because she was wearing no jewelry except inexpensive garnet earrings, she probably wouldn’t buy a very expensive piece. 95 Jewelry Essentials 3 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA This pendant bears an ancient Afghan coin—possibly from the time of Alexander the Great. It also features red spinel accent stones and an antique-style mounting. It makes a compelling story to tell a customer with an interest in archeology or past civilizations. When describing this piece, a statement like “Isn’t this red tourmaline’s color vivid?” might surprise and intrigue a customer who’s expecting a ruby. The natural lines, textures, and precious metal colors of this beautiful pendant would have direct appeal to anyone with a love for horses. Tag—Restatement of a benefit, posed as a question and designed to elicit agreement. Alice had restated the benefit of the ruby’s red color, then asked Diana a question designed to get her to agree. This is called a tag. She steered Diana toward a piece with an expensive look and greater value than her garnet earrings, but that wasn’t likely to be so expensive that Diana wouldn’t be able to buy it. After identifying the stone pendant and its setting, Alice emphasized the emotional value of Diana’s potential purchase. She did this by asking, “Isn’t the color lovely?” Alice then touched upon value, talking about affordability only when Diana mentioned price. She built the enhanced ruby cabochon’s tangible value by comparing it to what she knew would be a very expensive untreated ruby. She used her product knowledge to firmly establish the cabochon’s value and to convey the fact that Diana was getting a finelooking ruby at a good price. To reinforce the necklace’s emotional value, Alice helped Diana try it on. Finally, when Diana raised questions about the jewelry’s durability, Alice used her product and store-policy knowledge to overcome those objections. Use a Positive Approach Using the right words is important when you’re selling jewelry, particularly when you’re building value. Words like “love,” “you,” and “your” contribute to emotional value, while “guarantee,”“proven,” and “safety” contribute to tangible value. 96 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Valerie Power/GIA If your customer falls in love with an inexpensive jewelry piece instead of the one you expected, respect her choice. Building a relationship with the client is more important than a single sale. She might buy a much more expensive piece next time. You’ll be most successful when you sell each piece on its own merits. Don’t fall into the trap of negatively comparing one piece with another or one gemstone with another. If your customer shifts her buying attention to a comparison piece that you’ve already portrayed negatively, you’ve lost any chance of a sale. Also, don’t make negative comments about competing merchandise or a competitor’s store. That only creates a gloomy, negative atmosphere that clouds your sales environment. Unless price is so high that it removes a piece from consideration, price is less important to a customer who understands the emotional and tangible value of the jewelry. With your product knowledge, you can help her see that she’s getting good value for her money. KEY CONCEPTS You’ll be most successful when you sell each piece on its own merits. Avoid negative comments about competing merchandise or a competitor’s store. Price is less important to a customer who understands value. Occasionally, you’ll encounter a customer who’s on a mission to buy. You don’t want to get in her way, but what if you see she’s making a risky choice? For example, what if your customer likes pink gemstones and is determined to buy a relatively soft stone like kunzite to mount in a ring she’ll be wearing every day? You might want to suggest that she consider a harder stone like pink sapphire and explain why. This way, you can gently steer your customer off the wrong course and onto one that will both fulfill her mission to buy and register a good sale for your store. In the end, it’s likely your customer will be grateful, return for future purchases, and recommend you to others. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about designer, branded, custom, and estate jewelry, and proceed to Sales Step 4: Create Desire. 97 Jewelry Essentials 3 International Jewelry Sales: India Eric Welch/GIA In India, jewelry consumption is increasing. The jewelry store was located on a busy downtown street in Hyderabad, India. The storefront was narrow— a glass wall with no window displays. The interior was a long center aisle lined with glass-topped display cases and, behind them, shallow, glass-front cabinets. The cases displayed items like rings, pins, bracelets, and bangles, while necklaces, chains, and earrings hung on pins in the cabinets. The jewelry selection was mostly gold. Some items contained gemstones or pearls, but most did not. The store’s salespeople stood stationed behind the thigh-high display cases. Some of them were busy with customers, while others waited. Cup-shaped chairs sat in the aisle in front of the cases. The store was softly lit and free of glare. A tall, slender woman entered the store. Her movement down the center aisle was more a flow than a walk. She wore a traditional saree over a petticoat and tightfitting blouse, or choli. The saree’s loose end, or pallu, crossed her torso and draped over her left shoulder, where it was fastened with a gold pin. Its hem was decorated with intricately woven gold thread. As she 98 reached a seat, every eye turned toward her. The salesperson closest to the woman’s chair stepped forward. “Good morning, what jewelry may I show you today?” he asked. “I am looking for gold bangles,” the woman replied. “We have many styles, all in 18- or 22-karat gold,” he said. “Are you interested in something simple, elaborate, or in between?” “Fairly elaborate, and with inset emeralds,” she replied. “I think we have many you will like,” he said. “My name is Raj, what may I call you?” “I am Lakshmi,” the woman replied with a hint of a smile on her lips and in her eyes. Raj slid the display case open from the rear and took out a long, black velvet bar, around which were looped about 50 gleaming bangles resting side by side. The styles varied in complexity. Some had inset gems, while others did not. Many were duplicates. Lakshmi looked them over and touched a pair near one end. Raj removed them and placed them on the counter pad. Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins “Please,” he said, “slip them on.” Lakshmi picked up both with her right hand and slipped them over her left hand onto her wrist. She raised her arm to let the bangles dangle. She moved her arm slightly and watched the bangles swing to and fro. The small, round emeralds looked good set in yellow gold. “I like them and want to buy both,” Lakshmi said with no hesitation. “What’s your price?” “Today, I can give them to you for 68,175 rupees,” Raj said. “Today?” Lakshmi asked. “Do you mean if I was here yesterday or came tomorrow, the price would be different?” Raj was taken aback. He didn’t expect a response like that from such an elegant woman. “I’m sorry,” Raj said, “the price of gold varies, and our finished jewelry prices have to follow.” Andy Lucas/GIA Indian jewelry outlets range from casual, informal stalls and booths to exclusive high-end stores. “Yes,” Lakshmi replied, “but there is more than gold in these bangles. You have to cast the gold, and you have to buy and set the emeralds. You must have some flexibility there.” Raj knew Lakshmi was right, and she was prepared to drive a hard bargain. He also knew that the store’s owner allowed a little price flexibility that Raj could use when haggling with a tough customer. “Well,” Raj countered, “since you want to buy two, I can give you a 5 percent discount. That would make it 64,766 rupees.” Raj had used a handheld calculator to find the discounted price. “The most I will pay is 64,000,” Lakshmi said firmly. “One moment please,” Raj said, “let me speak with the owner.” Raj walked to the rear of the store, parted a curtain and disappeared behind it. A few moments later, he returned. Eric Welch/GIA As India’s middle class grows, educated consumers demand a wider selection of jewelry styles. “Mr. Singh has authorized me to sell the two bangles for 64,500 rupees,” he said. “Sixty-four two fifty,” Lakshmi instantly replied. “Agreed,” Raj said. “Would you like them wrapped, or do you want to wear them?” “I’ll wear them,” Lakshmi said as she withdrew a roll of bills from her purse and counted out 64,250 rupees. In many parts of the world, jewelry salespeople have to deal with shifting precious metal costs as well as customers who haggle over the price of a piece of jewelry. Raj didn’t want to lose the sale and the potential of future sales, so he was willing to accommodate Lakshmi to some degree. He knew the pricing structure for his store, but when Lakshmi pushed its limits, Raj was careful to consult with the owner before committing to a sale he might regret. Eric Welch/GIA In this upscale store, custom-made display cases coordinate with tasteful decor and focused lighting to provide a perfect backdrop for the jewelry. 99 Jewelry Essentials 3 KEY CONCEPTS Most modern chains are machine-made. Tailor the feature and benefit information to your customer’s needs. Bracelets are among the earliest personal adornments. A jewelry piece’s value can be both emotional and tangible. Trade and fashion magazines can help you keep up with constantly changing jewelry trends. You’ll be most successful when you sell each piece on its own merits. Always pair features with their corresponding benefits. Avoid negative comments about competing merchandise or a competitor’s store. People make buying decisions based on benefits, not features. Price is less important to a customer who understand value. Key Terms Bail—The piece of metal that attaches a pendant to a chain or strand. Omega chain—A flexible chain consisting of tightly joined diagonal segments. Bangle bracelet—A rigid, sometimes hinged, bracelet that slips over the wrist. Openwork—A design with open areas that allow the passage of light, sometimes through gems. Box chain—A chain consisting of angular links joined by solid metal squares. Brooch (pin)—Jewelry piece that attaches to a garment, often by a hinged pin and catch. Butterfly clutch—A fitting that slips onto the back of a post to hold an earring in place. Charm bracelet—A bracelet consisting of one or more small attached ornaments. Choker—A short, fairly tight-fitting necklace that hugs the throat. Collar—A wide necklace worn above the collarbone. Pendant—An ornament or gem suspended from a strand, band, or chain. Post—The part of an earring that passes through a pierced earlobe. Rope chain—Solid or hollow chain that usually has oval links and resembles a woven rope. Screwback—A device that secures an earring to an earlobe with a flat-ended screw. Slide—A pendant that attaches to a chain without a bail. Cuff bracelet—A C-shaped band that fits over the wrist or arm. Station necklace—A necklace with gems, cultured pearls, or beads positioned at regular intervals. Curb link chain—Chain style with flattened oval links. Stickpin—A long, straight pin with an ornamental top. Drop earring—An earring with one or more dangling ornaments. Earring jacket—A detachable ornament that surrounds or otherwise adorns a stud earring. Enhancer—A removable pendant designed to accent a strand of beads or cultured pearls. Figaro chain—Type of curb link chain with a repeating pattern of long and short links. Strand—A simple necklace typically composed of pearls or beads. Stud earring—An earring with a small ornament or gem on a post, designed to nestle against the earlobe. Tag—Restatement of a benefit, posed as a question and designed to elicit agreement. Filigree—A design made with thin, intricately interlaced wire. Tennis bracelet—A flexible bracelet set with a line of small matched gems, typically diamonds. Hoop earring—A dangling, circular earring made from solid wire or tubing. Tie tack—A short, ornamental pin that pierces and decorates a man’s tie. 100 Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Questions for Review n What are the most common necklace lengths? n What has caused the increased popularity of cultured pearl strands? n What are some popular chain styles? n What is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles? n Which bracelet types are rigid rather than flexible? n What factors have influenced earring design and use over the years? n Which earring types are popular today? n What is one of the oldest pin styles? n What are some popular brooch design themes? n What’s the best way to demonstrate jewelry for a customer? n What are the two types of value you can use in a sales presentation? n How do you develop a positive approach? 101 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry 4 Designer, Branded, and Custom Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Designer Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Store and Designer Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Custom Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Estate Jewelry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Victorian Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Twentieth-Century Jewelry Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Art Nouveau Jewelry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Edwardian Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Art Deco Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Retro Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Selling Estate Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Sales Step 4—Create Desire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Use What You Know About Your Customer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Build on the Romance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Ask Leading Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Questions for Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 103 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 4. With the knowledge you gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to: • Display a general knowledge of designer and branded jewelry. • Identify the characteristics of jewelry from different style periods. • Promote the benefits of collecting estate jewelry to your customers. • Build on the romance of a piece to create desire for it. 104 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry This beautiful butterfly brooch is the creation of contemporary jewelry designer Paula Crevoshay. More than 300 tiny sapphires grace the 18-karat yellow gold mounting. This piece is part of the National Gem Collection at the world-famous Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC. Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Jack was helping Jerry select a 25th anniversary gift for his wife, Michelle. They’d already been through the first few steps of the sale, and Jack knew that Michelle had a passion for brooches. But the process was stalled because every time Jack showed Jerry a brooch from his store’s vast collection, his most common response was, “Oh, yeah, she has one just like that.” “Boy,” Jack said, “this is more of a challenge than I thought it would be. But I have an idea: How about if you and I design a brooch, and I’ll have our bench jeweler make it by hand?” “Me, a jewelry designer?” Jerry exclaimed. “You’ve got to be kidding!” “Well,” Jack replied, “you know Michelle and her tastes and I can sketch jewelry pretty well. If we work together, I bet we can come up with something that Michelle will love.” “I have my doubts,” Jerry said, “but I do want to do something special, so let’s give it a try.” As Jack brought out his sketch pad and pencils, he asked Jerry a few questions to get the process started. He hoped he could create desire in Jerry and get him really involved in the project. 105 Jewelry Essentials 4 Robert Weldon/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA Aigrette is an old-fashioned term for a ladies’ hat ornament. This splendid example is a 1920s creation of Cartier, the famous design house. It combines platinum, diamonds, and emeralds with interchangeable green and purple feathers. Top-flight designer jewelry regularly includes gemstones of rare beauty. This pendant pairs two magnificent tourmalines—an oval-cut 6.95-ct. yellow and a 10.95-ct. pear-cut purple gem. “So, were you married in May?” Jack asked. Since that was the current month, he felt pretty safe with the guess. “Yes,” Jerry replied. “It was a gorgeous spring day. We were married outdoors in a park, flowers all over the place. It was nice, birds singing and everything.” “Do you think Michelle remembers that?” Jack asked. “She sure does,” Jerry replied. “If I don’t buy her flowers every May, she makes me cook my own supper.” “Well,” Jack said, “it looks as if we need a floral theme. I just got some baroque freshwater pearls in a week ago. Let’s take a look and see if there’s something we can use.” “What’s baroque?” Jerry asked. “Oh, I’m sorry,” Jack quickly replied, “Baroque is a pearl shape. It means it’s not symmetrical. Here, I’ll show you.” The two men looked through Jack’s stock of loose cultured pearls. Jack separated four from the rest, arranged them on his pad, and started to sketch. “How about this, Jerry,” Jack said. “If we turn the three pinkish ones like this and the purplish one like this, frame them in gold, and add colored stones here and here as accents, we can make the assembly look like a hummingbird drawing nectar from a flower blossom.” “That’s fantastic!” Jerry exclaimed. 106 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Tino Hammid/GIA This sparkling platinum and diamond necklace from the 1920s is by Cartier. It’s set with 25 substantial old-mine-cut diamonds. “Now we need a background for it,” he said. “Our bench jeweler is very good. He can make a gold leaf like this as a base.” Jack sketched a leaf shape around and behind the figures he had already drawn. “That’s great! I love it!” Jerry exclaimed. “And, even better, I know Michelle will love it. Have your guy make it. I don’t care what it costs. It’s the only 25th anniversary we’ll ever have.” Jerry paused a moment, then asked, “You’re not going to empty my wallet for this, are you, Jack?” “Don’t worry, Jerry,” Jack replied. “The price will be reasonable. I can call you tomorrow after I talk with our bench jeweler.” “That’s good,” Jerry said as he extended his hand and shook Jack’s. “And Jack, thanks.” Jerry left the store beaming. Jack had saved the day. Designer, Branded, and Custom Jewelry n How are designer and branded jewelry related? n What’s one way to stimulate sales of designer jewelry? n How is custom jewelry typically made? Tino Hammid/GIA This Cartier stamp appears on the clasp of the same necklace. A mark from a jewelry house of Cartier’s stature significantly increases the value and desirability of a piece like this. Jewelry that sets itself apart from the mainstream can have a strong psychological appeal for consumers. Jewelry that carries the prestige of a familiar and respected name, for example, is more likely to sell to a customer who values that connection. Other customers are attracted to jewelry that stands out as artistic or unusual. Still others prefer to have a hand in the design of their own uniquely personal jewelry. 107 Jewelry Essentials 4 Robert Weldon/GIA This unique necklace blends the geometry of handcrafted 22-karat yellow gold mountings with the natural crystal shapes of uncut aquamarine. The Brazilian designer calls this piece the “Arara Azul” necklace. The name is Portuguese for Blue Macaw. Tino Hammid/GIA Design house—A jewelry retailer that caters to upscale clients, offering high-end jewelry often designed by well-known jewelry artists. Along with Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels is another highly regarded jewelry design house. This 1950s suite features a leaf motif in blue sapphire, diamonds, and platinum. The suite includes a necklace, dress clips, a bracelet, and a watch. Designer jewelry—Jewelry promoted as the creation of a particular designer. In Romeo and Juliet, Shakespeare asked, “What’s in a name?” When it comes to luxury goods, the answer is, “Plenty.” Great design houses like Cartier have been around since the late nineteenth century. Brilliant jewelry artists have been creating unique designer jewelry for decades. The jewelry is often branded—labeled with the name of its manufacturer, design house, or designer—for a growing contemporary market. Branded jewelry—Jewelry identified by its manufacturer, design house, or designer. 108 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Tino Hammid/GIA Jean Schlumberger designed jewelry for Tiffany & Co. from the 1950s onward and was one of only four jewelers allowed by Tiffany to sign his work. His clientele included J.F. Kennedy, the Duchess of Windsor, Greta Garbo, and Audrey Hepburn. This anemone brooch is platinum and gold with sapphires and diamonds. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA These big, bold gemstone rings are from the same designer as the brooch on the lower right. Anyone familiar with his work would recognize his use of large gems with strong colors and unusual cutting styles. Contemporary Spanish jewelry designer Håbit exhibits a bold brooch with a striking 163-ct. marquise-shaped cabochon-cut rubellite tourmaline at its center. Designer Jewelry Manufacturers of fine china, high-fashion clothing, and other luxury items have long known the power of a name to create desire. Think of Wedgwood or Limoges for china and Armani, Dior, or Ralph Lauren for apparel. Because they inspire trust and loyalty, these brands almost sell themselves. By the 1980s, designer jewelry had become very popular—and not just for an elite group of wealthy connoisseurs. Women flooding into the work force spent a portion of their income on jewelry. Perhaps because women also bought designer apparel, the demand soared for fashionable jewelry styles they could use to accessorize their stylish clothing. In response, manufacturers offered coordinated designer jewelry collections. KEY CONCEPTS Branded jewelry helps jewelry retailers set themselves apart from their competitors. At first, some retailers were a little reluctant to accept the idea of branded jewelry. For one thing, they weren’t sure they wanted to set aside valuable display space to promote a single collection. Another concern was that designer jewelry prices were based on the importance of the designer’s name along with the cost of materials and labor. Retailers wondered if customers would accept the higher prices. 109 Jewelry Essentials 4 Robert Weldon/GIA Designer Marianne Hunter calls this piece Silk Shimmer in the Starlight. It reflects her distinctive style and features enamel, chalcedony, pearl, boulder opal, amethyst beads, and gold. Jewelry designer Marianne Hunter delivers a lecture on her art and technique. A presentation like this is a way for a designer to increase awareness of her jewelry and connect her personality to her unique designs. Also, many stores promoted and sold jewelry under their own brand names. They felt that selling other brands might dilute the image of their own store brands, which were more profitable because store-branded jewelry lines were often copied from jewelry branded with nationally or internationally prestigious names. When customers kept buying the prestige brands, retailers gradually accepted them into their inventories. Many jewelry retailers found that this helped them set themselves apart from their competitors. In addition, designers began marketing their jewelry directly to consumers, many by opening their own retail stores. Consumers responded by asking for designer jewelry by name. By the end of the 1990s, many jewelry retailers were displaying designer collections. Store and Designer Brands Jewelry from a prestigious store like Tiffany & Co. carries added value. Linking a designer brand with the name of a famous design house can increase the value of a jewelry item even more. Examples of this linking are the jewelry creations by Paloma Picasso, Elsa Peretti, and Jean Schlumberger featured by Tiffany. A woman who pays more to purchase an Elsa Peretti “open heart” pendant from Tiffany’s probably feels the extra value and added prestige are worth it. Some independent jewelry designers and manufacturers brand their own styles and sell their creations through jewelry chains, department stores, and independent jewelers. Designers like David Yurman, Elizabeth Gage, and Roberto Coin, and manufacturers like Damiani and La Nouvelle Bague create recognizable jewelry styles that are coveted by the public. KEY CONCEPTS Designer jewelry collections exist for almost any budget. 110 Designer jewelry doesn’t have to be expensive. Designer collections exist for almost any budget. One way to stimulate sales of designer jewelry is to promote it as collectible. This also generates repeat sales. Some stores advertise a special event centered around a particular signature collection. Some even host parties to introduce customers to the designer. Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Hamilton Jewelers These earrings are from Hamilton Jewelers’ Bellini collection. They feature richly textured gold mountings with sparkling round brilliant-cut diamonds against a black background. This collection of ballet dancer pins is from Japanese jeweler Paljoue. They feature carefully matched fire opal cabochons. Valerie Power/GIA Mikimoto is a strong brand that’s considered by many consumers to be synonymous with cultured pearls. Kavita Madhavan Branding and marketing are important when creating a modern jewelry collection. This brand emphasizes the art of inlay. The cool colors of the gems match the natural colors of nature. The company uses inlays extensively and manufactures its product in New Mexico, USA. Some designers create moderately priced jewelry that’s accessible to a wide range of consumers. This company draws from current fashion trends to produce contemporary collections using sterling silver and colored gems. Some retail jewelry chains and their brands are synonymous. De Beers sells only its own brand in retail locations around the world. Mikimoto sells its brand exclusively in its own stores and licenses retailers in other locations to sell the Mikimoto brand. Designer and branded jewelry styles are widely available in today’s market. In fact, many jewelry shoppers expect stores to offer branded jewelry. A store that promotes branded jewelry can attract shoppers who are already familiar with the brand name. Once there, those shoppers often become regular customers. 111 Jewelry Essentials 4 Rendering by Jung Hoon Lee Valerie Power/GIA A designer might create a rendering of the planned jewelry piece to give the client a good idea of its finished look. This is a traditional painted rendering. Today, many designers are turning to computers for design and manufacture. At a jeweler’s workshop, a unique pearl and tourmaline necklace takes shape using individually selected gems. The green of the tourmaline complements the shimmering reflections of the pearls. Custom Jewelry Custom jewelry—Jewelry made to order according to the customer’s specifications. KEY CONCEPTS Custom jewelry can be handmade or assembled from manufactured findings. Custom jewelry is designed and made according to customer specifications. There are two basic types of custom jewelry. The less common type is completely handmade. As you saw in Assignment 1, to be called “handmade” or “hand fabricated,” a jewelry piece must contain no manufactured components and be created entirely by hand or with hand tools. The second, more common, type of custom jewelry is assembled from already existing small jewelry components, called findings. A jeweler might join a head to a mounting, apply a texture, and set a gem selected by the customer. The simplest findings consist of a head that’s already attached to the mounting. The jeweler simply sets the gem and gives the creation a final polish. A variation on this occurs when a jeweler customizes an existing piece to give it a new look. Whether handmade, assembled from manufactured findings, or created by customizing an existing piece, custom jewelry offers a unique, madeto-order adornment. For customers who want jewelry that expresses their individuality, that’s a powerful benefit. Some jewelry stores have full-time designers on staff to create custom jewelry. But even without that option, you can share pictures from a findings catalog or sketch your suggestions on the spot. With proper training, you can even use a computer program to turn your customer’s ideas into an on-screen representation of a custom jewelry item. People who order custom jewelry experience the thrill of participating in the creation of their own personal works of art. This added involvement is the kind of experience your customers aren’t likely to forget the next time they shop for jewelry. 112 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry CAD/CAM Eric Welch/GIA At GIA’s Carlsbad California campus, students learn to use CAD/CAM software to produce their own jewelry designs. CAD/CAM is short for computer-aided design/ computer-aided manufacturing. It’s a modern method that’s an important part of the jewelry design and manufacturing process. The designer uses a software program to create a drawing of the jewelry item on a computer screen and saves the three-dimensional drawing as an electronic file. The designer then uses the file to drive a machine that either cuts a blank to form a model or creates the model by building up layers of any one of a variety of materials. Some manufacturers use CAD/CAM to design and mill aluminum molds into which they inject wax to form models for casting. CAD/CAM is also used to design and mill the steel dies used in die striking. Today, many designers use computer software to produce photo-realistic renderings of their proposed jewelry pieces. The computer files are also used during the manufacturing process. CAD/CAM lets a jewelry designer create a unique piece that can be exactly reproduced many times over for the mass market. 113 Jewelry Essentials 4 Eric Welch/GIA Doris Duke, the famous tobacco heiress, once owned this 14-karat gold Cartier ring, which dates from the 1920s. It features an exquisite emerald-cut purple sapphire. Eric Welch/GIA This pair of ruby-set gold cufflinks is a Cartier creation. It dates from the 1920s and once belonged to Britain’s Duke of Windsor. Eric Welch/GIA Estate jewelry—Any jewelry that was previously owned. Period jewelry—Jewelry from a recognized time period. Antique jewelry—Jewelry that’s at least 100 years old. KEY CONCEPTS Estate jewelry is an important part of today’s market. 114 This enamel-decorated cigarette case was designed by Jean Schlumberger. It once belonged to Jackie Kennedy-Onassis. Estate Jewelry n What’s the difference between antique jewelry and period jewelry? n What are some popular twentieth-century jewelry styles? n How can you help your customers appreciate estate jewelry? Estate jewelry is a broad category that includes any jewelry that was previously owned. Estate jewelry can be of recent vintage or it can be period jewelry, which is jewelry that comes from a recognized time period. The term antique jewelry is used in the US and many other countries for jewelry that’s at least 100 years old. These intriguing remnants of our collective past are an important part of today’s market. Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Eric Welch/GIA Flamboyant celebrity pianist Liberace once owned this remarkable piece. It’s a polar bear tooth embellished with gold. Denis Finnin, American Museum of Natural History Tino Hammid/GIA In 1843, Britain’s Prince Albert gave this unique gold brooch to Queen Victoria to celebrate their anniversary. It’s set with four natural Scottish freshwater pearls and accented by amethyst, garnet, and chrysoberyl. Sometimes a famous jewelry piece is in such demand that reproductions are made. This flamingo brooch is a replica of the Duchess of Windsor's original. The body and legs are platinum with diamond pavé. The bird’s tail feathers are rubies, emeralds, and sapphires channel-set in yellow gold. Its eye is a blue sapphire cabochon and the beak is yellow and blue sapphire. Period and estate jewelry attract nostalgia buffs and cutting-edge consumers alike. Today’s jewelry designers and manufacturers can respond to this demand by creating reproduction jewelry that features design themes from bygone days. There are beautiful reproduction jewelry pieces to satisfy every budget. But these lovely adornments only pay homage to the real thing. Jewelry truly from the past is a slice of history and a one-of-a-kind treasure. Reproduction jewelry—A modern recreation of jewelry from a past era. 115 Jewelry Essentials 4 Robert Weldon/GIA This dainty pearl and dyed black chalcedony Victorian mourning pin has a floral motif set with seed pearls. Around the border are 36 natural pearls. Typical of mourning jewelry, the back has a recessed compartment to hold the hair of the deceased loved one. GIA & Tino Hammid Butterflies and other insects were very popular as jewelry motifs during the nineteenth century. This English diamond and silvertopped gold butterfly brooch dates from around 1850. The Victorian era brought a fascination with nature. This cross is formed from sprays of gold oak leaves, with five pearl “acorns” and a larger pearl as a centerpiece. Victorian Jewelry Victorian jewelry—A variety of styles popular during the reign of England’s Queen Victoria (1837-1901). There are a variety of styles in the category known as Victorian jewelry, which was popular during the reign of England’s Queen Victoria (1837 to 1901). Victorian styles typically include one or more of the following: • Matching sets of ornate gemstone jewelry • Gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, coral, amethyst, garnet, turquoise, and tortoise shell • Sentimental or romantic symbols • Ornamental locks of human hair • Mourning jewelry made of jet and other black materials • Cameos, typically featuring a pale silhouette against a dark background 116 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry GIA & Tino Hammid This pair of shell cameo and gold hatpins is in the so-called archeological style, inspired by ancient cultures. They date from between 1860 and 1890. Valerie Power/GIA This Victorian watch fob opens to reveal plaited locks of human hair. The stone on its base is very dark, almost black. These features are typical of mourning jewelry that is a treasured keepsake for a departed loved one. Robert Weldon/GIA During the Victorian period, there was renewed interest in jewelry from ages past. In 1890, Italian jeweler Castellani incorporated fifteenth century Renaissance cameos into this suite, which also includes emerald, pearl, ruby, and enamel. Some Victorian jewelry honored past cultures by reviving Greek, Roman, and Egyptian jewelry styles as well as Gothic and Renaissance motifs. Archeological jewelry was a special category inspired by ancient Greek, Etruscan, Roman, and Byzantine jewelry pieces that were being unearthed at the time. Jewelry pieces made of silver-topped gold were also popular in the Victorian era. To create them, artisans mechanically attached a thick layer of silver to a foundation of gold. 117 Jewelry Essentials 4 Harold & Erica Van Pelt/GIA As the twentieth century began, there was a transition from late Victorian to Garland or Edwardian styles. The openwork pattern of the necklace and bracelet is typical of that jewelry era. During this period, Edwardians still wore some Victorian pieces such as the insect brooch. Art Nouveau jewelry—Jewelry inspired by a decorative arts movement (1890-1914) and characterized by free-flowing lines and natural motifs. Edwardian (Garland) jewelry— Jewelry fashionable among upper classes in Europe and the US (19001915) that showcased high-quality gems and precious metals. Art Deco jewelry—A style prominent in the 1920s and 1930s that features geometric patterns and abstract designs in contrasting primary colors. Retro jewelry—Jewelry of the 1940s, characterized by sculptured curves in yellow or rose gold and floral, bow, and mechanical motifs. 118 Twentieth-Century Jewelry Styles The jewelry industry flourished during the first decades of the twentieth century. This was due in part to the discovery of new gem sources and the development of new manufacturing and gem-cutting techniques. Social roles also changed. Jewelry prices were within reach of the ordinary citizen. The changing role of women in society and the rise of the middle class put new demands on the jewelry industry. In response, the industry experienced a revolution in jewelry style and design. Several distinct jewelry styles appeared in the first half of the twentieth century. Some were associated with art movements, others were a reaction to wartime shortages. Each was popular during a specific period and each has its own unique style. All leave a brilliant legacy in the treasures that connoisseurs prize today. Twentieth-century jewelry styles include Art Nouveau, Edwardian or Garland, Art Deco, and Retro styles. Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Sylvia Bissonette Like the designers of archeological and revival styles during the Victorian period, contemporary designers might incorporate recovered artifacts into their jewelry. This pearl necklace has a coin retrieved from the Atocha galleon, which was shipwrecked in 1622. Harold & Erica Van Pelt Twentieth-century styles can recapture the drama of jewelry from bygone eras. Designer Paula Crevoshay's "Freedom Flight" necklace uses carved agate, topaz, and citrine to evoke some of the work of classic Art Nouveau masters. GIA & Tino Hammid GIA & Tino Hammid Startling geometry and clean lines define Art Deco jewelry. This platinum, diamond, and blue sapphire pin dates from the early 1920s. This Celtic cross pendant is embellished with white enamel and a central pearl. It’s by contemporary Scottish jewelers Hamilton & Inches of Edinburgh. The piece revives a style popular during Victorian times. 119 Jewelry Essentials 4 Eric Welch/GIA Mythical beasts are a recurring Art Nouveau theme. This fanciful 18-karat pin depicts a dragon or gryphon with a blood-red garnet in its mouth. Robert Weldon/GIA The realism and curved, flowing lines of this flower brooch mark it as a piece in the Art Nouveau style. The use of enamel and pearl is also characteristic. Art Nouveau Jewelry Introduced in the 1890s, the flowing style of Art Nouveau was a departure from the historic revival styles that had dominated nineteenth-century decorative arts. Art Nouveau—the name is French for “new art”—was inspired by the vitality of the natural world and an appreciation for Japanese art. Jewelry in the Art Nouveau style combines realistic interpretations of plants and animals with creatures of fantasy and myth. Raised to the level of fine art by such designers as René Lalique, this sinuous and sensual style disappeared with the onset of World War I in 1914. Art Nouveau jewelry often includes one or more of these features: • Curving lines • Realistic portrayals of nature, including butterflies, dragonflies, birds, and intertwining foliage • Fantastic creatures like dragons and other mythical beasts • Gems like pearl, opal, moonstone, aquamarine, tourmaline, rose quartz, chalcedony, chrysoprase, and amethyst • Use of glass, either molded or as enamel • Designs of women transformed into mermaids, winged sprites, or flowers 120 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Georges Fouquet was a French designer and goldsmith linked with both the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras. This splendid sea serpent corsage ornament bears typical features of the Art Nouveau style: a mythical beast, curved lines, enameled gold, and carefully coordinated emeralds, diamonds, and pearls. Lillian Nassau Eric Welch/GIA This elaborate pendant depicts Eve being tempted by the serpent. The subject matter, flowing lines, and combination of enameled gold, rose quartz, opals, and pearls are typical of Art Nouveau style. The flowing curved lines around this gold locket are a characteristic Art Nouveau feature. 121 Jewelry Essentials 4 Harold & Erica Van Pelt This suite of Edwardian jewelry was the height of fashion by 1910. The fine, saw-pierced platinum mountings set with diamonds and pearls are very characteristic of the period. This array of Edwardian jewelry includes a tight-fitting choker necklace, a ruby ring, a pendant with natural pearls, a diamond bow brooch, and a pin with conch pearls. Edwardian Jewelry Between 1900 and 1915, during the reign of England’s King Edward VII, the upper classes of Europe and the US wore jewelry as a way to demonstrate their wealth. They favored lavish jewelry inspired by the eighteenth-century French court and made of the finest, rarest, and most costly gems and precious metals. Platinum was first extensively used in jewelry during this period. The jewelry style is known as Edwardian, but it’s sometimes called Garland because it typically featured garlands of flowers tied with ribbons and bows. The style can include these features: • Pearls and diamonds • Delicate platinum mountings • Colored gemstones including ruby, sapphire, emerald, opal, and cat’seye chrysoberyl • Motifs like garlands, ribbons, bows, crescents, starbursts, Greek keys, laurel wreaths, wings, feathers, crowns, oak leaves, swallows, and butterflies 122 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry GIA & Tino Hammid GIA & Tino Hammid This gold Garland-style necklace displays characteristics of the period: a delicate mounting accented by seed pearls and a detachable pendant. This Edwardian collection features a lady’s enamel pocket watch on a matching necklace chain called a sautoir and enamel cufflinks with diamond accents. Novelty brooches like the demantoid garnet, diamond, pearl, platinum and gold polo player and the gold and diamond fox mask and riding crop are also typical styles. GIA & Tino Hammid GIA & Tino Hammid This regal yet delicate Edwardian crown brooch shows typical design traits: a finely pierced platinum-on-gold mounting encrusted with tiny diamonds and pearl accents. These Edwardian men’s stickpins allowed the wearer to show his interests or hobbies. The collection includes a diamond and platinum bulldog with ruby eyes, an enameled gold yachting flag, a ruby and diamond platinum-on-gold horseshoe, and a diamond-set platinum motorcar with wheels that turn. 123 Jewelry Essentials 4 Robert Weldon/GIA Some of the most striking pieces from the French jewelry house Mauboussin— established in 1827—are in the Art Deco style and date from the 1930s. Each carved ruby bead in this necklace is secured to a frame by white metal posts capped with a tiny diamond. Art Deco Jewelry The Art Deco style emerged after World War I and dominated jewelry and decorative arts from 1920 through the 1930s. It was a strong reaction against the ethereal sensuality of Art Nouveau and the delicate elegance of the Garland style. Art Deco jewelry suggests post-war practicality through its geometric patterns and bold colors. Art Deco features include: • Bold, contrasting colors • Strong geometric patterns • Sleek, streamlined look, emphasizing the vertical line • Gemstones including diamond, black onyx, lapis lazuli, ruby, emerald, sapphire, jade, turquoise, and topaz • Carved or cabochon-cut colored gemstones 124 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry GIA & Tino Hammid French designer Henri Vever created this elegant carved amethyst and emerald floral brooch around 1920. It’s made of platinum and black lacquer on gold, with diamonds, amber, and pearls. GIA & Tino Hammid Eric Welch/GIA This gold Garland-style necklace displays characteristics of the period: a delicate mounting accented by seed pearls and a detachable pendant. This slender geometrical lady’s watch is a good example of the Art Deco style. Rectangles of dyed black chalcedony contrast with platinum and carved rock crystal quartz. Diamond accents add sparkle. Robert Weldon/GIA Mauboussin also created this stunning Art Deco bracelet from about 1925. Square and baguette diamonds mounted in white gold create a dazzling frame for rich green emeralds. 125 Jewelry Essentials 4 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA This lady’s wristwatch displays classic Retro style, with small diamonds and rubies set in rose gold. This 1940s gold, sapphire, and diamond pin is by Van Cleef & Arpels. It was once the property of Eva Perón, the former First Lady of Argentina. The piece displays typical retro features: bold, burnished gold curves and light-colored sapphires. Retro Jewelry The outbreak of World War II in 1939 ended the Art Deco period. Gems were in short supply during the early 1940s, and platinum was reserved for military use. The jewelry produced during and immediately after the war used materials, such as gold and diamonds, that were still available during these lean years. Jewelry from this period is known as Retro. The Retro style rounded Art Deco’s sharp angles and muted its bold colors. Its sculpted curves were sparingly set with small diamonds and rubies. Some designs were set with large, but less expensive, gemstones like citrine. Large motifs were crafted of thin gold sheets to conserve metal while giving a substantial look. In the late 1940s, post-war prosperity led to a more opulent use of colored stones and more feminine-looking designs. Common themes and styles in Retro jewelry include: • Floral and bow motifs in colored gems • Animal figures of enameled gold and gems Robert Weldon/GIA Bows of polished yellow gold form a backdrop for a spray of blue and fancy pink sapphires in this 1950s retro classic by New York jewelers Trabert & HoefferMauboussin. It’s from their Reflections series, featuring broad, smooth planes of curving metal to contrast with layered rays of gemstones. 126 • Jeweled brooches, lapel clips • Bold, sculpted curves of rose gold set with small diamonds and rubies • Designs inspired by mechanical objects like bicycle chains, padlocks, and tank treads • Stylized natural motifs • Gemstones like small diamonds, rubies (often lab-grown), and lightcolored sapphires Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Eric Welch/GIA GIA & Tino Hammid This beautiful enameled pin once belonged to English singer, composer, and pianist Sir Elton John. It’s a French piece dating to approximately 1870. His prior ownership broadens the piece’s appeal and increases its value. This is a Renaissance-revival hinged book-style pendant or charm. One side bears a central pearl surrounded by rubies, while the opposite side has the reverse pattern with a ruby at the center. The green enamel-on-gold design adds to the piece’s charm and would tempt a client with an interest in history. Selling Estate Jewelry Estate jewelry is a growing source of revenue for retailers. Many retail establishments have departments that specialize in estate jewelry. This includes large department stores as well as individual jewelers. The selections in those departments inspire strong consumer interest in antique and period jewelry. KEY CONCEPTS Auction catalogs are great resources for information on estate jewelry. You can help your customers appreciate estate jewelry by increasing your own knowledge of this interesting category. One way to do this is to familiarize yourself with auction catalogs. They contain valuable information about estate jewelry styles, periods, and auction prices. Eric Welch/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA This jewelry collection includes pieces owned by royalty and celebrities, including opera singer Maria Callas and Eva Perón, the “Evita” of popular culture. Their famous former owners give them broader appeal and higher value. Movie icon Joan Crawford once owned this bracelet and wore it in many of her movie publicity shots. Its flexible links incorporate diamonds of various shapes in intricate, symmetrical designs. Such pieces were popular in the early 1930s. 127 Jewelry Essentials 4 Robert Weldon/GIA This platinum ring’s reason for being is the stunning 11.01-ct. oval Burmese ruby. A gem of this caliber would appeal to the wealthiest and most exclusive clientele. Robert Weldon/GIA This necklace and ring ensemble is of the highest quality. A superb 24.72-ct. Colombian emerald forms the centerpiece of the diamond-set platinum and gold necklace, while the ring contains a 4.91-ct. emerald of equivalent quality. You can also encourage your estate jewelry customers to become collectors. Suggest that they collect by theme, like flower or butterfly motifs, or by jewelry type, like lockets or brooches, or by design period, like Art Deco or Retro. If your store regularly carries antique and period jewelry, take the time to get to know the inventory. That way, you can help your customers select jewelry to match their tastes and budgets. 128 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Eric Welch/GIA This pair of ruby-set gold cufflinks is a Cartier creation. It dates from the 1920s and once belonged to Britain’s Duke of Windsor. Sales Step 4—Create Desire n What techniques can you use to create desire? n How do emotions contribute to a jewelry purchase? n How can word pictures help you sell jewelry? Your presentation is going fairly well. You’ve approached your customer, exchanged information, and built value, yet your customer seems to be stuck. Although she seems inclined to buy, she hasn’t shown signs of committing. You sense that involving her emotions more deeply will secure the sale. You have to go beyond building emotional value to the next step: creating desire. Creating desire involves building on your customer’s interest and enthusiasm so she begins to feel she must have the jewelry. In a way, you’re exciting your customer’s deeper, more intense emotions—her passion. There are several techniques you can use. Use What You Know About Your Customer KEY CONCEPTS You create desire for a jewelry purchase by building on your customer’s interest and enthusiasm. It’s always helpful to validate your customer’s interest and to affirm a personal connection. You want to link her with the choice she’s made and show her how the piece matches her unique needs. To do that, call upon what you learned about her during the information exchange. 129 Jewelry Essentials 4 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Once you’ve established a rapport with your client, you need to gain as much information from her as you can. Don’t forget that jewelry purchases are driven by emotion. Listen to what your customers say and respond to their needs. Suppose you learned your customer is shopping for a birthday gift for her sister. She told you her sister loves ornate things and that she dresses as if she’s from a romantic past era. As a result, you’ve focused your customer’s attention on a distinctive Art Nouveau necklace-and-earrings set. She likes the pieces but seems hesitant to commit. You might say, “You know your sister and what she likes, and you were instantly attracted to these pieces. That was a purely instinctive attraction, which means you saw a connection between your sister and this jewelry.” You’ve justified your customer’s emotional reaction by telling her that her attraction to the jewelry means it’s an appropriate gift. By tying your customer, her sister, and the jewelry together, you begin to create desire. KEY CONCEPTS A jewelry purchase is mainly an emotional decision. Keep in mind that a jewelry purchase is mainly an emotional decision. That’s true whether your customer is buying for personal adornment or as a gift for someone else. The principal reason people buy jewelry is as a token of affection. When not buying for themselves, they buy out of emotion involving loved ones. Build on the Romance Always handle jewelry with respect when you show it to a customer. Start your demonstration by admiring the piece as you remove it from the case. Wipe it clean with a gemcloth and place it on a pad on the counter. Your attitude and actions convey your feelings non-verbally. They should leave the impression that you admire the merchandise and that you invite your customer to share your feelings. 130 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Robert Weldon/GIA What could be more romantic than this heart-shaped ruby? Pair this 8.01-ct. ruby’s beauty with the gem’s longestablished lore and you’ll have a winning sales presentation. Michel Roudnitska This marketing image for Tahitian cultured pearls evokes the romance of beautiful tropical islands. Jewelry lore can help you build an aura of rarity, romance, or mystery. Every gemstone accumulates its own catalog of lore over the centuries. Using bits of lore to romance the stone can help you sell. For example, emeralds are said to foretell future events and diamonds are emblems of fearlessness and invincibility. Rubies are mentioned four times in the Bible, linked to attributes like beauty and wisdom. Details like these help create desire. KEY CONCEPTS Always handle jewelry with respect. Try to relate a jewelry piece’s qualities to your customer’s motivation to buy. 131 Jewelry Essentials 4 Valerie Power/GIA As a sales associate, it’s important to handle the jewelry you show with the respect that the piece deserves. This sales associate’s approach communicates the value of the beautiful topaz ring to her client. Each jewelry piece has special qualities that you can tie to your customer’s motivation to buy. Paint a word picture that fulfills her motivation. Word pictures can transform gem value factors into something intangible that makes your customer passionate about buying. Try using vivid, colorful terms to draw comparisons to beautiful places or things. For example, suppose your customer is eyeing a strand of Tahitian cultured pearls. She says she honeymooned in Tahiti years ago. She couldn’t afford to buy a strand then, but now it would be nice to have a reminder of that wonderful experience. By evoking romantic memories of lush green islands, warm tropical breezes, and turquoise seas, your word pictures connect Tahitian cultured pearls to those memories and help capture a past time. Ask Leading Questions As you did when building value, use tags to get your customer’s agreement and to move your presentation along. For the woman considering the Art Nouveau set for her sister, you might ask,”Don’t you love the way the designer wove the flowers into the figure’s hair?” For the woman contemplating the Tahitian cultured pearl strand, you might ask,”Doesn’t the luster look like a glow from deep within the pearl?” Having your customer affirm the value of a feature or benefit casts the piece in a positive light and encourages acceptance. Beauty and rarity have inherent emotional appeal, but they’re not the only factors that might excite a customer’s passion. Each sale is unique, and sales associates have to be able to deal with any situation that arises. 132 Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Robert Weldon/GIA Just by looking at it, the beauty and rarity of this exceptional ruby necklace can excite desire in a customer. It’s set with over 80 carats of the finest Burmese rubies and more than 300 diamonds. For example, in the scenario that opened this assignment, Jerry’s passion was not excited by the beauty or uniqueness of the pieces Jack showed him. Nor was it aroused by the pearls that eventually became part of the piece he and Jack designed. Jerry was excited by the fact that he could take part in designing a brooch that he knew Michelle would love. His excitement came from the anticipation of being able to please his wife on their 25th wedding anniversary. Jack tapped into that desire to make the sale. Although the four jewelry categories you learned about in this assignment—designer, branded, custom, and estate jewelry—are not always found in every jewelry store, they’re an important part of the industry. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about watches, a mainstay for many retail jewelers, and giftware, a category that draws customers and boosts profits for many retailers. You’ll also learn about Sales Steps 5 and 6: Trial Close and Close the Sale. 133 Jewelry Essentials 4 International Jewelry Sales: China Valerie Power/GIA China’s importance as a jewelry-consuming nation is certain to continue for decades to come. China has seen enormous social change in recent years. Millions of young people have left rural areas and moved to the cities, where they have taken better-paying jobs and adopted lifestyles unknown to most Chinese just a short time ago. Among the new practices is the presentation of a diamond wedding ring to the bride by the groom on their wedding day. There were many jewelry shops along East Nanjing Road in Shanghai, but Lixin chose Lao Fengxiang’s. He remembered visiting there as a small boy and watching his grandfather buy jewelry gifts for his grandmother. Now, Lixin was a young man. He had left his village to attend university and, after graduation, found a good job with a Shanghai publishing company. The city looked nothing like the Shanghai of his youth. But the Lao Fengxiang Jewelry Company store was still in the same place, and Lixin felt as if he was honoring a family tradition by shopping there. This time, he was shopping for a diamond wedding ring. Jiamei had accepted his marriage proposal and 134 he wanted the best diamond ring money could buy. After doing some research, he knew just what he wanted. The salesman greeted Lixin as he entered the store: “Good day, sir.” “Good day,” Lixin replied. “I’m here to look for a wedding ring.” “Certainly, sir. My name is Xiaomin. What may I show you?” the salesperson asked. “I want a diamond solitaire in a platinum Tiffany setting,” Lixin replied, then added, “I want a onecarat, D-Flawless round brilliant.” Xiaomin was surprised that the young man was so well prepared. He also doubted Lixin could afford the diamond ring he was describing, but didn’t want to offend his customer, so he tried not to show it. “I can show you a loose diamond and a setting,” Xiaomin said. “If you like them, I can have the diamond mounted into the setting and ready for you later today.” Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry “Yes, that would be fine,” Lixin replied. “I would like to examine the stone with a gemological microscope set at 10X.” “Certainly,” Xiaomin said, again surprised at his young customer’s sophistication. “It will take me just a moment to get the diamond from our safe. We don’t keep stones of that quality in the display cases.” Xiaomin returned a few moments later with a folded stone paper and escorted Lixin to an alcove where a microscope sat on a marble-top counter. He set up the microscope, then unfolded the paper and picked up the diamond with tweezers. He motioned Lixin to sit and passed him the tweezers holding the diamond. Lixin turned the stone face-up and then pavilion-up under the microscope’s magnifying lenses, rotating it several times in each position. Xiaomin was impressed with Lixin’s skill with the tweezers and microscope. Valerie Power/GIA This jewelry store in Weitang, China, attracts a new type of brand-conscious Chinese consumer. “The color and clarity are perfect,” Lixin said. “Now I’d like to see the platinum setting. Her ring size is 6.” Xiaomin carefully returned the diamond to its stone paper, then led Lixin back to the display case. Xiaomin took the setting from its holder and placed it on the counter pad. Lixin picked it up and examined it closely. “Yes, this will do,” he said. “How much will the cost be, with the diamond mounted in this setting?” After a quick mental calculation, Xiaomin replied, “We can mount the diamond and have it ready for you today in a presentation box for 241,000 yuan.” The shock registered on Lixin’s face, and for the first time since he entered the store, his air of confidence disappeared. Apparently, he had researched everything about diamonds except their prices. Doug Fiske/GIA After a long history as a British colony, Hong Kong reverted to mainland China. Global brands like Swarovski see Hong Kong as an ideal opening for expansion into the rest of China. Lixin had to change course quickly. He wanted to buy a wedding ring for Jiamei, but he didn’t want to embarrass himself any further. Xiaomin instantly recognized the dilemma. “Perhaps I can offer you something a little less costly?” Xiaomin offered gently. “I can show you a somewhat smaller diamond.” “Yes, let’s try that,” Lixin replied, sounding greatly relieved. About 15 minutes later, Lixin left Lao Fengxiang’s with a 0.24-ct., J-color, SI2 round brilliant diamond, bezel-set in a platinum band. He was happy with his purchase and would proudly present it to Jiamei on their wedding day. Xiaomin had made a good sale and was certain Lixin and Jiamei would return to buy again. Valerie Power/GIA Hong Kong’s jewelry stores provide a glimpse into the cosmopolitan choices awaiting jewelry consumers on the mainland. 135 Jewelry Essentials 4 KEY CONCEPTS Branded jewelry helps jewelry retailers set themselves apart from their competitors. You create desire for a jewelry purchase by building on your customer’s interest and enthusiasm. Designer jewelry collections exist for almost any budget. A jewelry purchase is mainly an emotional decision. Custom jewelry can be handmade or assembled from manufactured findings. Always handle jewelry with respect. Estate jewelry is an important part of today’s market. Try to relate a jewelry piece’s qualities to your customer’s motivation to buy. Auction catalogs are great resources for information on estate jewelry. Key Terms Antique jewelry—Jewelry that’s at least 100 years old. Art Deco jewelry—A style prominent in the 1920s and 1930s that features geometric patterns and abstract designs in contrasting primary colors. Designer jewelry—Jewelry promoted as the creation of a particular designer. Edwardian (Garland) jewelry—Jewelry fashionable among upper classes in Europe and the US (1900-1915) that showcased high-quality gems and precious metals. Art Nouveau jewelry—Jewelry inspired by a decorative arts movement (1890-1914) and characterized by freeflowing lines and natural motifs. Period jewelry—Jewelry from a recognized time period. Branded jewelry—Jewelry identified by its manufacturer, design house, or designer. Reproduction jewelry—A modern recreation of jewelry from a past era. Custom jewelry—Jewelry made to order according to the customer’s specifications. Retro jewelry—Jewelry of the 1940s, characterized by sculptured curves in yellow or rose gold and floral, bow, and mechanical motifs. Design house—A jewelry retailer that caters to upscale clients, offering high-end jewelry often designed by wellknown jewelry artists. 136 Estate jewelry—Any jewelry that was previously owned. Victorian jewelry—A variety of styles popular during the reign of England’s Queen Victoria (1837-1901). Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Questions for Review n How are designer and branded jewelry related? n What’s one way to stimulate sales of designer jewelry? n How is custom jewelry typically made? n What’s the difference between antique jewelry and period jewelry? n What are some popular twentieth-century jewelry styles? n How can you help your customers appreciate estate jewelry? n What techniques can you use to create desire? n How do emotions contribute to a jewelry purchase? n How can word pictures help you sell jewelry? 137 Watches and Giftware 5 Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Today’s Watch Market. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Market Segments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 How Watches Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Mechanical Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Quartz Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Specialty Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Selling Watches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Beyond Timekeeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Giftware. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Specializing in Giftware Sales. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Giftware for the Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Collectibles and Personal Gifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Enameling in Jewelry and Giftware. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Enameling Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Enameling Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Enameling Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Sales Steps 5 & 6—Trial Close and Close the Sale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 The Trial Close . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Trying an Add-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Objections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Close the Sale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Initiating the Close . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Questions for Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 139 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 5. With the knowledge you gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to: • Demonstrate knowledge about the inner workings and operation of a timepiece. • Identify the types of watches found at different levels in the marketplace. • Display an understanding of the giftware items found in many jewelry stores. 140 Watches and Giftware Valerie Power/GIA For many consumers, a watch is much more than just a timekeeper. A high-end watch can be a status symbol as well as a beautiful piece of jewelry. “Cellini” is a line of dress watches from Rolex, a Swiss manufacturer. Watches and Giftware “Good morning, Mrs. Richardson,” Joseph said cheerily as a long-time customer came into his store. “Good morning, Joseph,” Mrs. Richardson replied. “It’s good to see you. But Joseph, we’ve known each other so long, I really do wish you’d call me ‘Betty.’” “It’s good to see you, too, Betty,” Joseph emphasized with a smile. “What brings you in today?” “I’d like to find a very special gift for my husband,” Betty replied. “His 65th birthday is coming up, and I want to mark the occasion with something he wouldn’t buy for himself, something worthy of a Nobel laureate.” “Are you thinking about a jewelry gift?” Joseph asked. “Well, that had occurred to me, but, you know, Bob really isn’t one for things that don’t actually perform some kind of function,” Betty said. “He’s so practical. It’s not enough for him that things just look good; they also have to be useful.” 141 Jewelry Essentials 5 “Well, what kind of watch does Bob wear?” Joseph asked. “Oh, it’s a ratty old thing his grandmother gave him when he earned his doctorate,” Betty replied. “I doubt it keeps accurate time anymore, even if he remembers to wind it.” “Do you think he might like a battery-powered quartz watch?” Joseph asked. “They’re very accurate.” “You know,” Betty replied, “I actually like the idea of a traditional windup watch, but Bob is so absent-minded I’m afraid he’d forget to wind it.” “Well, then,” Joseph said, “let me show you some self-winding models.” Joseph showed Betty to the watch display and pointed out three different watches. They spanned the price range from mass market to luxury. Betty was particularly attracted to the luxury watch with the $5,000 price tag. Joseph took it from the case and explained its features, including how the self-winding mechanism worked. “I like it very much,” Betty said, “and I think Bob will, too, but I’m a little worried about one thing.” “What is it, Betty?” Joseph asked. “Well, Bob sometimes works in the lab for days at a time,” Betty replied. “And he leaves his ring and watch on the dresser at home. He can’t wear them because they interfere with the sensitive equipment he uses. Now, when he does that, wouldn’t the watch’s power wear down, and wouldn’t it stop working?” “You’re right, it might,” Joseph replied. “It depends on how long the watch is still. But I have just the thing to solve that problem.” Eric Welch/GIA Watchmaking goes back more than 500 years. Although the vast majority of watches contain batteryoperated quartz movements, skilled watchmakers are still in demand due to the growing sales of high-end mechanical watches. 142 Watches and Giftware Joseph turned to a cabinet behind the counter and brought out a cylindrical object. It was about six inches tall and four inches in diameter. Its top tilted forward, forming a round face with a fixture in the center that looked like half a hoop. “What is it?” Betty asked. “It’s a watch winder,” Joseph replied. “When Bob isn’t wearing his new watch, he can mount it on the winder and let battery or electrical power wind it for him.” “Oh, my goodness!” Betty almost squealed. “The physicist in Bob will love this! Thank you! He’ll love the winder, to say nothing of this exquisite watch.” “Shall I gift wrap them both for you?” Joseph asked. “Can you wrap them separately?” Betty asked. “I want to tease him a little.” “Certainly,” Joseph replied. “I’d be happy to.” Watches n Where are the watch industry’s major commercial centers? n What types of watches dominate the market? n How does a watch keep time? Watchmaking is a craft that goes back more than 500 years. The first watches were made in Germany around 1500. As watches and manufacturing became more sophisticated, the young industry spread elsewhere in Europe. Geneva, Switzerland, has had a flourishing watchmaking industry almost as long as Germany. Protestant theologian John Calvin and his followers unintentionally fostered the industry in the mid-1500s by forbidding the wearing of jewelry. To survive, jewelers in Geneva gradually turned to making watches. While Geneva’s citizens were good innovators, they also excelled at adopting others’ innovations, and at commerce and banking. The combination led to a centuries-long Swiss prominence in watchmaking and in international marketing of Swiss-made timepieces. Today, the global watch industry is centered in Switzerland, Japan, Hong Kong, and the United States. Many watch manufacturers conduct business in these commercial centers, but most watches are manufactured in places where labor costs are low. For example, Timex, a leading mass-market watchmaker headquartered in the US, has manufacturing facilities in locations that include the Philippines, India, Brazil, and China. The Japan Clock and Watch Association estimates that 1.25 billion watches were produced worldwide in 2005. Retail sales totaled about $30 billion. Switzerland exported 25 million watches with a wholesale value of about $9 billion. A recent jewelry industry trade journal survey found that more than 90 percent of independent US jewelers sell watches. About 3 million watches are sold in the US, with retail sales totaling about $1.85 billion. Eric Welch/GIA Zenith is a Swiss brand that dates back to 1865. As the watchmaking craft advanced, fine pocket watches like this one evolved into smaller and more intricate styles designed to be worn on the wrist. 143 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Quartz movements dominate the entrylevel watch market. The Japanese company Seiko is a market leader in this sector. This woman’s watch has a stainless steel case and bracelet with gold-plated accents. Premium watches are beautifully crafted and almost exclusively mechanical. Like this one from luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Patek Philippe, they often feature transparent backs that display their exquisite inner workings. Some luxury jewelers also offer distinctive watch lines. Louis Cartier, inspired by World War I Renault tanks, designed the famous tank watch in 1917. This is the 18K yellow gold Tank Française, released in 1996. Its crown is set with a blue sapphire cabochon, a characteristic Cartier touch. Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Today’s marketplace is crowded with competing watch brands at all levels. Some bear the names of specialty watch companies, while others are re-branded with the labels of fashion houses or clothing stores. All are sold in a variety of retail outlets. Rolex is perhaps the best-known Swiss manufacturer of highend mechanical watches, with annual revenues in the billions of dollars. Rolex watches are famed for their water resistant cases. In 1960, one was attached to a submersible and survived the trip to the 11,000 meter depths of the Mariana Trench. KEY CONCEPTS Quartz watches dominate today’s watch market. Mechanical watch—Timepiece powered by manual or automatic winding. Quartz watch—Timepiece powered by a battery. 144 Today’s Watch Market There are two main types of watches in the market today: mechanical watches and quartz watches. The basic difference between them is their power source. A mechanical watch is powered by manual or automatic winding. A quartz watch is powered by a battery. For well over 400 years, mechanical watches were the only type on the market. Today, however, they represent about 1 percent of the watches produced every year. Today, quartz watches dominate the market. Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA The introduction of the Swatch watch reinvigorated the watch mass market. Swatch watches come in dozens of styles, most below US$250. The parent company, called the Swatch Group, also owns many upper-market brands. Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Omega is a Swiss luxury watch brand. Omega watches were the first to be carried to the moon, worn by US astronauts Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin. Even the fictional secret agent James Bond wore an Omega in his latest movies. Timex is a major manufacturer of massmarket watches. The brand goes back to a nineteenth-century American clockmaker. The company produced one of the first wristwatches around World War I, and enjoyed success with mechanical watches from the 1940s through the 1960s. About 80 percent of watches produced today are analog quartz watches, with the passage of time displayed in hours, minutes, and sometimes seconds by pointed “hands.” Almost all the rest are digital quartz models, with time displayed as numbers, usually by a liquid crystal display (LCD). Market Segments The trade divides the watch market into segments, usually by retail dollar value. Mass market watches are generally priced under $100. These are highvolume, low-price quartz watches made by companies like Timex, Swatch, Fossil, and Casio. Analog watch—Timepiece with time of day and passage of time indicated by pointed devices called hands. Digital watch—Timepiece with time indicated numerically, usually by a liquid crystal display (LCD). 145 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Breitling is an exclusive Swiss watch brand with an aviation association—a so-called pilot’s watch. Breitling watches are large and expensive timepieces that are marketed mostly to men. Gucci is a leading fashion and leather goods label that promotes watches as fashion accessories. Omega is one of the world’s most recognized premium watch brands, with average retail prices about four times those of Gucci watches. Both are considered luxury brands. Terri Weimer/GIA Three quarters of Rolex buyers are men. The brand’s reputation for quality and durability, along with its association with sports like diving, mountaineering, and yachting, give it broad appeal to a wealthy male audience. The middle market for watches includes prices between $100 and $700. This level consists of widely distributed lines by Japanese and Swiss quartz watch producers like Seiko, Citizen, Bulova, and Tissot. The luxury market includes watches priced from $700, with prices extending beyond $6,000 at the highest levels. Categories consist of mechanical and quartz watches, and they’re usually produced in lower quantities by Swiss watchmakers. This market segment includes brands like Raymond Weil, Tag Heuer, and Rolex. 146 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA A fine mechanical watch movement is a miniature wonder of precision-made components. It requires a skilled and experienced watchmaker to maintain a precision timepiece like this. A quartz watch movement is massproduced rather than hand-crafted. Instead of a spring, it’s powered by a battery. This is a Japanese-made example from quartz watch giant Seiko. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Officine Panerai is a luxury watch brand originally established in Italy around 1860. Although the cases are designed in Italy, the mechanical movements are Swiss-made. This is a large style, with a case diameter of 45 mm. Like many high-end watches, this Officine Panerai model has an exhibition back that reveals its intricate mechanical movement. This watch’s size and visible mechanism make it appealing to a male watch buyer. How Watches Work The inner mechanism of a watch—the motor that moves the watch’s hands or activates its LCD to display the time—is called a movement. Watches, especially those with mechanical movements, are complex masterpieces of miniaturization. Mechanical Watches The parts of a mechanical watch include a mainspring that provides the power; the gears that turn the second, minute, and hour hands; and a regulating system that steadies the watch’s speed as the mainspring unwinds. Movement—The inner mechanism of a watch. Mainspring—A strong spring that powers the watch as it unwinds. Regulating system—A group of devices that steady the mainspring’s unwinding and perform the timekeeping function. 147 Jewelry Essentials 5 Parts of a Watch Barrel—Contains the mainspring and transmits its energy. Bezel—The stationary or rotating ring that surrounds the watch dial and holds the crystal in place. Case—Container that protects the watch movement from dust, dampness, and shocks. It also might be used to provide the watch with its own unique appearance. Crown—The small knob on the outside of the watch case that’s used to set the time and date and other functions. On a manually wound mechanical watch, the crown and its extensions also wind the mainspring. Crystal—The transparent cover on a watch dial. It can be made of acrylic plastic, glass, or labgrown sapphire. A lab-grown sapphire crystal is highly resistant to scratching or shattering. Eric Welch/GIA This partially disassembled movement displays the complexity of a high-end mechanical watch. Main plate—Base on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted. Jewels—Natural or lab-grown gem materials used as bearings to reduce friction between watch parts. To power the watch, the wearer manually or automatically winds the mainspring. As the spring unwinds, it drives the gears and other parts that keep time and turn the hands. Today, most mechanical watches are wound by an automated mechanism that oscillates as the wearer moves. Escape wheel—Device that works with the escapement lever to assist the timekeeping function of a mechanical watch. As gears turn, they produce friction. If that friction goes unchecked, it will eventually undermine the proper operation of the movement. To reduce friction, increase accuracy, and prolong a watch’s life, watchmakers install hard jewels, such as corundum, that act as bearings. Escapement lever—Device in a mechanical watch that controls the motion of the balance and escape wheels and, therefore, the rotation of the hands. The number of jewels varies, but a “17-jewel movement” is fairly standard. It means the watch movement contains 17 friction-reducing jewels. Since the early 1900s virtually all jewels used in watches have been lab-grown. Balance spring—A hair-thin, spiral spring that’s coupled to the balance wheel to make it rock back and forth. A mechanical watch also needs a regulating system to run steadily and keep accurate time. The regulating system steadies the unwinding of the mainspring. Without it, the gears would turn very fast when the mainspring is tightly wound and slow down as the spring uncoils. A watch’s regulating system consists of a double-ended escape wheel, an escapement lever, a balance spring, and a balance wheel. Balance wheel—The watch part that rocks back and forth to divide time into equal parts. As the mainspring unwinds, it powers an interaction between the escape wheel and the escapement lever. The wheel pushes one end of the lever, causing the other end to turn the balance wheel in one direction. The balance spring then turns the balance wheel back in the other direction. 148 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Fine pocket watches like this 1930s Hamilton model were the high-end watches of their day. Every metal surface in this movement is beautifully finished, and the jeweled bearings are easily visible. The Rolex Datejust is a self-winding automatic watch. The original model was introduced in the 1940s. It was one of the first watches with a date function. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA This is a Rolex automatic watch movement. The large pendulum, or rotor, swings with the wearer’s motions to wind the watch. Unlike other automatic watch movements, this one has a reversing gear that allows it to wind in both directions. This presentation case incorporates a watch winder that keeps the timepiece running when it’s not being worn. Jaeger-LeCoultre is a luxury Swiss watch brand. This beautiful watch has a reversible case that swings around. This feature was originally designed to protect the watch from damage while the wearer was riding or playing polo. Now it serves to display the watch’s intricate mechanism. When the balance wheel moves the escapement lever, the escape wheel advances one notch. The escapement lever moves back and forth four to five times a second, engaging the teeth of the escape wheel. The interaction of the escapement lever and the escape wheel’s teeth makes a mechanical watch tick. Working together, the balance wheel and escapement lever help perform the timekeeping function of the watch. Their motion is transmitted to the hands, which indicate the time of day. A watch without a second hand might have a less complex gearing system, while those with a calendar display might be much more complex. An automatic or self-winding mechanical watch has a winding mechanism that works by gravity and the wearer’s motion. The two forces wind the watch by keeping a weight rocking back and forth. In some models, the weight rotates 360˚. A limiting mechanism prevents overwinding. Automatic winding devices are available to keep a self-winding watch wound when it’s not being worn. 149 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer is well known for its high-end sports watches. The company produces both mechanical and quartz models. This is a Seiko “kinetic” movement. It’s a quartz movement paired with a selfwinding mechanism. A pendulum engages with the large center gear, which spins the tiny wheel at high speeds. This generates an electrical current that powers the rechargeable battery. This quartz movement was made by Swiss manufacturer ETA. Many wellknown brands use this movement, including TAG Heuer. The company is part of the LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) luxury goods group that includes De Beers. Eric Welch/GIA This Japanese-made quartz movement is sized for the smaller dimensions of a lady’s watch. Quartz Watches Button (cell) battery—A tiny, discshaped battery used to power a quartz-movement watch. Most quartz movements are powered by electricity from a tiny, diskshaped battery called a button or cell battery. Some might be powered by electrical energy converted from solar power. Whatever its source, the electric current causes a lab-grown crystal to vibrate at a constant high frequency: 32,768 times per second. This consistent vibration makes a quartz watch highly accurate. The vibrating electrical impulses pass through a motor that converts electrical energy to mechanical energy. The mechanical energy drives the gears and other parts that turn the hands. In a digital quartz watch, the electrical impulses power a liquid crystal display that indicates the time of day. 150 Watches and Giftware Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA This group of Breitling watches sports the extra little dials and case buttons that reflect extra chronograph functions, often described as “complications” in the watch trade. Complications can include stopwatch or calendar functions, striking mechanisms, or even phases of the moon. Swiss luxury brand Baume et Mercier traces its pedigree back to 1830. The company manufactures a wide range of watch styles, including sporty chronographs. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA The chronograph’s extra functions require additional mechanisms beyond the standard movements. This typically requires a larger case. This back view of a chronograph movement shows its jewels, rotor, and top-quality finish. This is the front view of the same chronograph movement. In addition to the date mechanism, there are also attachments for the hands of the main timekeeping movement as well as for the accessory stopwatch functions. Specialty Watches Some watches do more than just tell time. A chronograph, for example, has a stopwatch function. Wearers can measure elapsed time by using push-buttons on the case. Don’t confuse a chronograph with a chronometer. Literally, any watch is a chronometer because it measures time. But the trade applies the word “chronometer” to Swiss-made watches that permanently display seconds and pass seven stringent accuracy tests certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), a standards and testing organization in Switzerland. Chronograph—Timepiece with two independent systems that tell the time of day and measure brief time intervals. Chronometer—A Swiss-made watch that meets very high accuracy standards. 151 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Like all precision mechanisms, mechanical watches require regular maintenance. Watchmakers employ a variety of sophisticated tools to ensure optimum timekeeping. Besides checking for time accuracy, watchmakers also test watch cases for water resistance. This device checks for leaks by sealing the watch in a pressure chamber. KEY CONCEPTS The term “water resistant” has replaced the improper term “waterproof.” Some specialty timepieces add various functions to watches or chronographs. Some might provide a compass, while others give altitude, temperature, barometer, and global positioning information. For athletes and fitness enthusiasts, there are chronographs that provide heart-rate data. Some have tachometers that measure the wearer’s rate of speed. There’s even a chronograph that works in conjunction with a personal computer to bring the features of a personal digital assistant (PDA) to the owner’s wrist. Some calendar watches have the added feature of a perpetual calendar, which automatically adjusts for differences in the number of days in each month and for leap years. Shock resistance is also a feature found in many modern watches. In the US, it means that the watch was tested for its ability to withstand an impact equal to being dropped onto a wooden floor from a height of three feet. Water resistant—Describes a watch with the ability to prevent water penetration through its case. The term “waterproof” is no longer properly used to describe watches. The only instruments it might apply to are divers’ watches and then only under special testing circumstances. Watches designed to withstand different degrees of wetness or immersion are designated water resistant. Some watches marked “water resistant” can withstand splashes of water or rain, but can’t be immersed without leaking. Many watches made to be worn while swimming or diving are marked “water resistant to X meters or feet,” meaning the watch can be worn underwater to the designated depth without leaking. The tests that yield these designations, however, don’t duplicate actual depth, pressure, and movement conditions, and shouldn’t be taken literally. 152 Watches and Giftware Valerie Power/GIA Watches can make up a substantial portion of a jewelry store’s sales. The variety of chronograph watches on display suggests this store serves a wealthy male clientele. Selling Watches The variety of watches and chronographs is so broad and the price range so wide that selling them involves, at least in part, matching a customer’s needs, desires, and budget to a particular timepiece. Selling watches is similar to selling jewelry in that respect. It’s also similar in another way: To succeed as a sales associate, you have to know the product. KEY CONCEPTS It’s important to know each watch’s features and how they work, so you can demonstrate them to your customers. Watches range from very simple, with only minute and hour hands, to very complex. A chronograph with several added features can be challenging for a first-time wearer. As a sales associate, you have to know each watch’s features, how they work, and how to demonstrate them to a customer. You have to instill confidence to make sales. Showing sincere interest and passion isn’t only a plus, it’s a necessity. A watch’s fundamental function is to tell time. That gives a sales associate several selling points that don’t apply to jewelry: • How accurately and reliably does the watch tell time? • If it has a quartz movement, what’s the battery life? • If it has a mechanical movement, does it need servicing? How often? • Is the watch dial easy to read? • What other functions does it perform? How well? • Are the watch’s functions easy to set and adjust? 153 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA This Omega watch is a limited edition re-issue of a classic design from 1915. Named the “Petrograd” watch in honor of the Russian and Eastern European markets where it was popular, it’s one of a series of classic designs reintroduced by the watchmaker and in high demand with collectors. Valerie Power/GIA With proper care and servicing, high-quality mechanical watches can last for generations. As a result, there’s a very strong resale market for them. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Montblanc is a German manufacturer of high-quality pens and watches. The company is part of the South African owned Richemont group that includes famous brands like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Baume et Mercier watches. American designer Nathan George Horwitt created The Movado museum watch in 1947. It was the first wristwatch to be displayed at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The gold dot represents the sun at high noon and the motion of the hands symbolizes the earth’s movement. Watchmakers periodically update old models and introduce new ones. Most customers respond well to these new ideas. Sales associates must stay up to date so they can relate new developments to customers. You can learn about new styles and features from watch company sales representatives, from promotional and training materials, and from Web sites. Many companies provide in-store training for sales personnel. Watchmakers’ representatives commonly make yearly visits to educate and update retail sales associates. 154 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Bucherer Eric Welch/GIA Colorless and fancy yellow diamonds circle the bezel of this Breitling chronograph watch. Together with the gold case, the gems elevate this already high-end precision timepiece to make a powerful statement of stature and wealth. French jewelry house Boucheron has sold watches for over a century. This diamond-studded example is discreet and elegant enough for a woman of wealth and status. This Cartier tank watch has a number of special features: the interior case pivots within a platinum frame to display the exhibition back, and the sapphire cabochons are natural rather than labgrown. Only 100 copies of this watch were made, so the model is also very exclusive, adding to its value. Eric Welch/GIA Temption alessandro.marcolin Glashütte Original is a German luxury watch manufacturer based near Dresden. The company is one of the few to manufacture its own high-quality mechanical movements. Temption is a small-volume German luxury watchmaker that produces only 700 watches a year. The company emphasizes minimalist design and ergonomics. This model is a man’s chronograph. This advertisement from Swiss watchmaker and jeweler Piaget plays on the typical theme of the luxury watch as a symbol of wealth, status, and success. Beyond Timekeeping For many consumers, watches aren’t just for telling time. They can be jewelry, status symbols, or collectible works of art, engineering, or miniaturization. A woman wearing an elegant evening gown and a delicate, diamond-studded wristwatch is probably more interested in making a fashion statement than knowing what time it is. For many men, a highend watch is the only jewelry they wear. And that expensive watch is often as much a status symbol as a timepiece. 155 Jewelry Essentials 5 It’s a Fake! Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Although this watch was presented as a high-end product by Swiss manufacturer Hublot, it’s a clumsy fake. The exhibition back reveals a crudely finished mechanical movement. The best defense against counterfeit watches is thorough knowledge of the genuine article. This watch by the Swiss International Watch Company (IWC) is a genuine high-end product. Everything, especially the movement visible through the exhibition back, is beautifully finished. The level of finish quality is proportionate to the quality and cost of the piece. The watch the street vendor urges on you has a remarkably low price. Its face might say Chopard, Rolex, or Tag Heuer, it might look like the real thing, and it might even keep accurate time, but it’s a fake. The fakes might be called copies, replicas, or knock-off watches. They’re for sale on the streets and in some retail stores in many cities around the world. They’re also available through what seems like countless Web sites. They look authentic on the outside, but inside they’re poorly made using inferior parts. Some even have glued-on faces, so the hands never move! Most, if not all, have batterypowered quartz movements. Some will work reasonably well, while others will have failed by the next time you turn your wrist to check the time. Most fake watches are counterfeits and violate copyright laws. This makes them illegal to sell. No reputable jeweler sells watch fakes. Especially since watchmaking is a more than 500-year-old craft, there is broad and avid interest in collecting watches. A visit to a few Web sites can reveal the extent and variety of collectors’ interest. These sites include: www.nawcc.org www.americanwatchguild.com www.watchswiss.com 156 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Unlike watches or fine jewelry, a comprehensive giftware display requires a significant amount of space. Giftware n What must jewelers consider before deciding to carry giftware? n What factors apply to specializing in giftware sales? n What are some giftware categories and items? Some customers buy giftware for themselves, but most giftware purchases are for important events like weddings and births. About 25 percent of independent US jewelers sell giftware. Among jewelers’ considerations when deciding if they want to carry giftware is whether they have enough display and inventory space. Generally, gift lines take more display space than jewelry lines. And, since many gift items must be well-packaged to ensure their safety, they require more inventory space. If jewelers find they have enough room for giftware, they must decide if it’s profitable and appealing enough to justify carrying it. Most jewelers find that jewelry generates more profit per amount of display space than giftware. But they often find that giftware broadens a store’s appeal, draws customers who otherwise would not have come in, and produces crosssales. That is, jewelry buyers purchase giftware, and giftware buyers purchase jewelry. KEY CONCEPTS Giftware can attract customers who might also buy jewelry and can generate additional sales to jewelry buyers. 157 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Weddings are major opportunities for sales of giftware, including glass and crystal. Full-service jewelers can take advantage of wedding-related sales by offering to maintain registry gift lists for their clients. Giftware includes a diverse array of products such as fine china and glassware, decorative collectibles, desk accessories, and clocks. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA High-quality photo frames, whether solid or plated silver or crystal, are highly appropriate gifts for special occasions. Giftware also includes high-end writing accessories like these top-quality pens. Specializing in Giftware Sales Many jewelers who specialize in giftware find it’s best to have at least one sales associate who is dedicated exclusively, or nearly so, to selling it. To be more efficient at buying giftware at wholesale, and more productive at selling it at retail, a person needs detailed knowledge of gifts and decorative accessories, as well as the industry that produces them. As with other types of sales, there’s no substitute for product knowledge. But giftware is a very broad category of goods. It would be difficult to learn about all the items you might potentially sell. You can focus, however, on the items your store sells by reading the manufacturers’ literature, talking to their sales representatives, and searching the Web for sites relating to those products. 158 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Whether it’s new, antique, or merely pre-owned, quality flatware is an important component of a full-service jeweler’s inventory. Items like serving spoons, cheese knives, and cake slicers are popular wedding gifts. Quality earthenware pieces can be used as design accents in any kitchen or dining room. Eric Welch/GIA Hollowware includes items like candlesticks, napkin rings, platters, tea services, and condiment sets. The finest are handmade by skilled artisans from sterling silver. Giftware for the Table The flatware category consists of knives, forks, and spoons used as utensils when eating. Flatware sold in jewelry stores can be sterling silver, silver plate, or stainless steel. A standard four-piece dinner setting consists of a dinner knife and fork, a teaspoon, and a salad fork. Additional pieces are a luncheon knife and fork, a dessert spoon, a flat- or hollow-handled butter spreader, and a napkin ring. Earthenware is tableware, pottery, and decorative objects made of a variety of materials, including ceramics and clay. It’s usually fired at relatively low temperatures and often glazed. Jewelry stores usually don’t carry full place settings of earthenware but rather sell large tableware pieces like bowls or platters, or decorative items like vases. There are some unique, hand-painted earthenware pieces, but most patterns are applied by a transfer process. Flatware—Knives, forks, and spoons used as utensils when eating. Earthenware—Tableware, pottery, and decorative objects made of a variety of materials, including ceramics and clay. 159 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Although fine china and stemware are popular gifts, it’s impossible for a jeweler to stock every variation. Treat the stock on display as a representation of what’s available. It’s best to have a specialist on staff with the knowledge to special order items suited to a client’s needs. Eric Welch/GIA Crystal is a very popular giftware category. Whatever the occasion, the recipients will enjoy the beauty and feel of these substantial tumblers for years to come. Crystal—Tableware and ornamental objects made of fine-quality, brilliant glass. Hollowware—Metal tableware like bowls, pitchers, trays, and teapots made of sterling silver, silver plate, or pewter. China—Porcelain or similar highquality translucent or white ceramic material often used to make tableware. Crystal is a category of tableware and ornamental objects made of finequality, brilliant glass. The glass is often called lead crystal because it’s between 18 and 38 percent lead oxide. Crystal is a broad and popular category for jewelry stores that carry giftware. You’ll see candlesticks and cups, vases, platters, bowls, pitchers, ice buckets, decanters, trays, glasses, stemware (wine or champagne glasses), decorative figurines, art glass, and other utilitarian and ornamental objects. Many crystal pieces are engraved. Hollowware is metal tableware like bowls, pitchers, trays, and teapots, made of sterling silver, silver plate, or pewter. The hollowware most often found in high-end jewelry stores is cast in sterling silver by skilled artisans called silversmiths. Candlesticks, condiment sets (containers for food seasonings), and tankards (large mugs) are popular hollowware pieces. Starting with sheets of sterling silver, craftsmen make the very best items by hand. China is porcelain or similar high-quality translucent or white ceramic material often used as tableware. Porcelain china and bone china are similar in that they contain clay, among other ingredients, are fired in a kiln, and can be glazed or not. Bone china differs in that one of its ingredients is ox-bone ash. The china sold in jewelry stores is often called fine china to emphasize its elegance. Five-piece china place settings often consist of a dinner plate, a shallow bowl, a salad plate, a cup, and a saucer. They might be sold as a set or as individual pieces. Some designs are hand-painted, numbered, and signed. They are considerably more expensive than designs reproduced through a transfer process. Jewelry stores might also carry fine china tea and condiment sets, serving bowls and platters, trays, and other tableware. 160 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Although not exclusively aimed at men, writing instruments like this pair of sterling silver pens by Italian manufacturer Montegrappa are considered mens’ furnishings. Eric Welch/GIA These collectible crystal fish by Lalique draw inspiration from the firm’s Art Nouveau period. They’re made in many bright colors, with acid-etched relief detail. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Cufflinks are a traditionally male jewelry accessory. This pair of whimsical pineapples has enamel accents. They’re made by English manufacturer Deakin & Francis. This high-quality fountain pen is made by German manufacturer Montblanc. Its cap contains a tiny fashioned diamond suspended in glass. Collectibles and Personal Gifts Figurines are small carved or molded figures, sometimes called statuettes. Jewelry retailers who carry giftware often include porcelain, crystal, or glass figurines in their selections. Of these, porcelain figurines are most commonly seen. Desk accessories are items found on an office or home desk. The category is too broad to be fully represented by jewelers who carry giftware. Items you might see in jewelry stores include pens, pencils, and sets; paperweights; letter openers; bookmarks; business-card stands; stationery, invitations, and thank-you notes; and clocks. Figurines—Small carved or molded figures, also called statuettes. Desk accessories—Items found on an office or home desk. 161 Jewelry Essentials 5 The birth of a child is an important giftware opportunity for many jewelers. Besides christening cups and spoons, photo frames are popular gifts. Eric Welch/GIA Clocks are also popular gifts. Many full-service jewelers stock a variety of wall and mantle clocks. Although many might have quartz movements, there’s a growing appreciation for mechanically driven clocks. Men’s furnishings—Articles or accessories used or worn by men. Men’s furnishings are articles or accessories used or worn by men. While there are few items in a jewelry store that are intended solely for men, the men’s furnishings category includes nearly all of them. You might find these men’s giftware items in a jewelry store: belt buckles, cigarette lighters and cases, cuff links, wallets, business-card cases, key rings and chains, pens, pencils, and sets, penknives, money clips, humidors (for storing cigars), and fragrances. Baby items are another important giftware category. Jewelry store giftware departments might carry hair brushes, porcelain and bone-china cups and place settings, sterling silver rattles, spoons and teething rings, and earthenware piggy and bunny banks. Another giftware category is so broad that it can only be called “miscellaneous.” It includes silk scarves, leather goods like belts, purses, wallets and briefcases, key rings and chains, barware, fragrances, picture frames, hanging ornaments, decorative eggs, jewelry boxes and cases, and many other items. One prestigious retail jewelry chain even offers a sterling-silver train—a steam engine followed by several passenger cars and a caboose. Enameling in Jewelry and Giftware n What’s the history of enameling? n What are some enameling techniques? n What’s the role of enameling in today’s market? Basic enameling—the practice of fusing powdered glass to metal—has a long history of use in objects both practical and ornamental, including jewelry and giftware. At one time, enamels were accented with gold and valued like gemstones. Less popular today, they still have a place in the market, especially in fine antique jewelry pieces. Some enamel finishes also appear in Oriental giftware and mass-produced fashion jewelry. 162 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA This giftware selection includes earthenware vases, photo frames, and decorative giftware with colorful enamel accents. True enameling began as early as the sixth century BC in the area around the Mediterranean Sea. This Greek-style enamelwork prevailed for 10 centuries. Celtic enameling developed separately. It spread through Western Europe and the British Isles as the main influence until the third century AD. The popularity of Byzantine religious enamels, the greatest flowering of the art, peaked in the tenth century. France became the center of enameling in the twelfth century, culminating in Limoges painted enamels in the 1600s. Industrial methods and uses arose in the 1750s and replaced fine handcrafted enamels by the late 1800s. Since then, there have been occasional revivals like the astonishing creations of Fabergé in pre-Revolutionary Russia, the naturalistic designs of Art Nouveau, and some Art Deco work. But today, this ancient art is rarely practiced. Modern Chinese enameling began after contact with the West in the fourteenth century. It spread to Korea, Japan, and India, where early Jaipur enamelists were famed for brilliant ruby reds. In China, the art peaked in the eighteenth century. After that, factory production for Western markets led to lower-quality goods. Oriental designs have revitalized the art in the West many times since 1850. 163 Jewelry Essentials 5 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA The enameling process begins with mixing powdered glass into a suitable binding agent. The next step is to apply the mixture onto the object, following the desired pattern. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA After the mixture is applied, the item is ready for firing in an oven. Firing fuses the enamel onto the jewelry piece. Enameling Basics Enameling begins with glass that’s specially made for its desirable properties. The glass is ground to a powder, washed, applied to a backing in a design, sprayed with a wet binding agent, and allowed to dry. Then it’s fired in a kiln to fuse it. After cooling and acid cleaning, the process is repeated until the details of the piece are complete. Harder, high-heat enamels go on first, then softer ones. Fire-polishing or finer mechanical polishing is the last step. Eric Welch/GIA This Victorian enamel piece was produced by the same process. The blue enamel provides a striking backdrop for the delicate gold design. 164 Enamel backings are usually metal. Pure gold and silver backings work best. Pure copper also works as a backing and so does iron, but mostly for pots and pans. Enamels can be decorated with metallic foil or wire, or with tiny accents stamped from thin sheets of fine gold or silver. Watches and Giftware Robert Weldon/GIA Attractive enamel colors combine to achieve a delicate effect in this heartshaped gold flower brooch. Christie’s George Post Art Nouveau jewelry designers frequently used enamel techniques. This pendant combines pink enameled flowers with conch "pearl" buds and plique-à-jour enamel leaves. This elaborate pendant, named “Egret Queen,” uses grisaille and foil enamels for its delicate bird design along with pearls, apatite beads, opals, and precious metal. Enameling Techniques There are many different enamel techniques, but all are variations of a few basic types. First are those where areas of color are separated by thin metal strips. These favor geometric or stylized designs. Cloisonné is the oldest, with dividing strips inlaid or soldered to the backing. Plique-à-jour is a see-through enamel like a stained glass window. To create it, the artist uses a temporary backing during firing, then removes the backing to complete the piece. In champlevé, cells that contain the enamel are cut or etched into the metal. In basse-taille, the metal background is engraved to show a raised design under the enamel. Taille d’epargné has fine, even-depth engraved lines filled with opaque enamel. The background in guilloche is engraved or tooled in fine geometric motifs, creating a reflective sheen. Some enamels are painted, with no metal between colors. These allow more fluid, lifelike images—even portraits. The softer enamels are often fired in several layers, from opaque to transparent. En plein features a plain, smooth enameled surface, usually solid-colored. Grisaille is a subtle enamel painted in tones of black and gray, or purple, or brown. Designs scratched through lighter top layers show the dark tone of the base layer. En resille has a backing of engraved glass or rock crystal, lined with gold and enameled. Niello is a black metallic inlay technique, effective in silver. 165 Jewelry Essentials 5 Robert Weldon/GIA Calypso blue enamel with a hand engraved texture complements the colors of a Tahitian cultured pearl in this contemporary 18-karat yellow gold ring. Valerie Power/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA Contrasting enamel colors add dimension and life to this contemporary diamond flower brooch. Although enameling is less common today, some jewelry manufacturers still produce outstanding pieces. Many art styles come back into fashion periodically. Traditional Indian jewelry emphasized polished, unfaceted gems set in engraved and enameled high-karat gold. The predominant colors were red and green, symbolizing the forces of life. This style is currently enjoying a renaissance. Enameling Today Today, technical advances and modern electric kilns provide a wide range of commercially available colors and fusing temperatures. But enameling suffers from mass production. Metal backings are often machine-stamped, punched, engine-turned, or etched. Organic lacquers, more flexible but less durable, are used instead of true glass. Decal transfer designs are common. Enameling comes back into style periodically, but fine modern enameling is rare. Enameled antiques still hold their value. To judge enameled pieces, observe the colors, design, metalwork, and polish and check for cracks and chips. 166 Watches and Giftware Sales Steps 5 & 6—Trial Close and Close the Sale n What are some approaches to the trial close? n How can you overcome a price objection? n What are some ways to initiate the close? You’ve progressed through four sales steps with your customer, and it seems as if it’s time to close the sale. Yet your customer is sending mixed signals. She might be ready to commit, but she might just thank you, turn, and walk out of your store. You’ve invested valuable time and effort in getting this far, and you’re tempted to blurt out a direct question like, “So, do you want to buy it?” But you don’t want to appear pushy and risk offending your customer and sending her to your competitor. It’s time to gently test her readiness to buy. You’ve reached the step called the Trial Close. Eric Welch/GIA When your customer starts contemplating a purchase, it’s time to attempt a trial close. 167 Jewelry Essentials 5 KEY CONCEPTS Use subtle questions to test your customer’s readiness to buy. The Trial Close Because each customer and sales situation is different, there’s no single magic formula for every trial close. Regardless of the tactic you choose, this is an indirect, perhaps even subtle, test of your customer’s readiness to buy. Here are some possible approaches: • Ask your customer what she thinks about an aspect of the piece. For example: “Do you like the way the accent diamonds surround and complement the center sapphire?” If you get a positive response, you’re on your way to closing the sale. • Suggest when the piece can be ready. For example: “I can have our bench jeweler resize the ring and have it ready before the end of the day. Would that work for you?” If your customer says yes, you’ve made the sale. • Ask whether your customer would like to wear, rather than carry, the piece. A positive response to either alternative means you’ve made the sale. • Ask your customer if she would like the piece gift-wrapped. Or ask what form of payment she prefers. All of these questions assume she has decided to buy. Even if your assumption is incorrect, she might go along with your assumption and commit to the purchase. Trying an Add-On You might try to combine an add-on with the trial close. For example: “How about a beautiful pair of matching earrings to go with your necklace?” With this question, you’ve tied an additional item to the main purchase, and you’ve established the assumption your customer already owns the main piece. You’ve created a positive, tempting buying atmosphere. Your customer might respond by buying the main piece or the main piece with the add-on, she might raise an objection about the main item, or she might refuse altogether. She might refuse the main piece regardless of which trial close you use, so you really have nothing to lose by trying an add-on. Also remember that there’s more profit in add-on sales. Overhead costs come out of the first sale, so any sales beyond that mean greater financial gain for you and your store. Objections Instead of responding to the trial close by committing to buy, your customer might raise an objection. When that happens, you might have to back up a step or two and return to Building Value or Creating Desire, or both. Your product knowledge will probably be useful. Respond to any objections immediately. Give direct answers to your customer’s questions. If you don’t, she might suspect you’re stalling or trying to be deceptive. Hesitation or objections aren’t necessarily refusals. Customers often want to be assured that they’ve made the right choice and that they’re getting good value for their money. It’s your job to provide that assurance. 168 Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA A customer’s hesitation or objection might center on price, or she might simply need to be reassured about the piece’s quality or value. When customers raise price objections, they’re usually asking about value. Your customer wants to know if the piece is really worth its price. She’s saying, “I’m spending a lot of my hard-earned money here. Is the jewelry’s value in line with the price?” There are several possible responses. You might mention the rarity of the metal or gems. You can talk about the mining difficulties, the craftsmanship involved in fashioning the gems or manufacturing the piece. You might mention the designer’s creative input. You can compare jewelry’s long life to other consumer goods that have relatively short lives. For example, “Fine jewelry lasts a lifetime and maybe more. For about the same price as this piece, you might be able to buy a designer dress, suit, or even a handbag, but how long will any of those items last? We have many clients who pass jewelry from generation to generation.” KEY CONCEPTS A price objection is usually a question of value. Positive word of mouth is a powerful advertising tool. Remember that people often buy jewelry without detailed knowledge of their purchase. The only information customers might have is what you tell them. They want to trust you. If you’re insincere, or if you betray that trust, you’ll lose the immediate sale, any future sales, and sales to any of that customer’s family and friends. There’s no more powerful advertising than word of mouth. It’s up to you to make sure that word of mouth is positive rather than negative. Close the Sale At any time during your sales presentation, but especially after you’ve demonstrated the jewelry and promoted its value, be attentive to buying signals. When you notice one, it’s time to close the sale. A sign that your customer is ready to buy can be as obvious as a direct declaration or question, or as subtle as an affectionate glance between a man and woman. 169 Jewelry Essentials 5 Jewelry Store Displays Eric Welch/GIA Well designed displays can help you with add-on sales. The earrings and pendants complement the necklaces in this display. Also, the well designed display elements enable presentation of many necklaces in a neat, coordinated fashion. There’s an art to displaying jewelry and other merchandise. How you group and present jewelry items can have a big effect on sales. tags. Even if a customer already owns a nice pearl strand, she might be captivated by a coordinating bracelet, pair of earrings, or matching ring. Picture a crowded jewelry case with a confusing array of mismatched items that make it hard for a client to know where to look or even what the display is trying to present. In addition, some pieces have fingerprints on them, and many store inventory tags are showing. Perhaps even the glass countertop looks smeared and messy. This also applies on a larger scale. Put yourself in a customer’s shoes as you stand in your store’s entrance. What do you see first? What catches your eye? Check out your store and see if your displays encourage casual browsing. Contrast that unattractive scenario with a well laid out, freshly cleaned case where jewelry items are displayed in a coordinated fashion on specially designed display elements. A focal point in the display takes your eye to a beautiful pearl necklace. Surrounding the necklace are matching earrings, bracelets, pendants, and rings. The pieces are attractively arranged, leading your eye past each group of items in turn. The case appears uncluttered and clean, with no fingerprints and no visible inventory 170 The way customers move through a store and the route they might follow is called traffic flow. Research shows many customers turn to the right as they enter a store. In a well designed jewelry store, every display should tell a story and communicate the store’s own “brand.” Many jewelry stores have a professional window dresser or a dedicated staff member responsible for the store’s window displays. The same stores might assign individual work stations or jewelry display cases to particular sales associates. Every display case can be a tool to help increase sales. Make a plan before you lay out the merchandise Watches and Giftware Eric Welch/GIA Many jewelry stores make individual sales associates responsible for specific display cases. This promotes involvement and allows an associate to become an expert in certain product lines. Eric Welch/GIA Besides the standard display elements, stores often introduce seasonal themes to their window presentations to keep them fresh. This store combined the warm colors of fall with appropriate giftware for a winning display. within a display. Each case should have a theme or rationale. For example, you might choose to create a display with men’s furnishings, including pens, money clips, cufflinks, and even some luxury watches. A display case like this provides you with talking points for your sales presentation and helps you effectively promote that particular product category. Another important part of your responsibility is to keep the displays clean. It’s essential to make sure the countertops are cleaned regularly during the day and that all the jewelry pieces are neatly arranged. Each item should be cleaned before it’s returned to the case after a customer sales demonstration. Finally, always remember to gauge customers individually. Try to determine if they are inclined to stop and listen to your presentation or if they might have a specific purchase in mind and want to buy that item quickly. Developing and using this skill, along with careful display planning, can help you increase your sales success. Valerie Power/GIA A common practice is to group jewelry items from the same designer together. This provides unity and helps sell new items to a client who might already own a piece from a particular collection. 171 Jewelry Essentials 5 If your customer asks, “How much is the tax on this item?” or “What’s your policy on returns?” you know she has buying on her mind. If a couple mulling over an expensive jewelry purchase touch each other or exchange loving looks or words, they are leaning toward buying. You have to be sensitive to these buying signals and move to close the sale. Be respectful, though—don’t pounce. Initiating the Close Customers take the lead and announce they want to buy only 20 percent of the time. As a sales associate, that means if you want to ring up a lot of sales, you have to initiate the close. Like the trial close, closing the sale almost always starts with the sales associate asking a question. Here are some examples: • Can I put that in a special box for you? • Will you be using cash or a credit card today? Eric Welch/GIA • Would you like me to gift-wrap that for you? You should be sensitive to a customer’s signals. She might pause to contemplate the jewelry or a couple might exchange a knowing glance. These are signals that your customer is getting ready to buy. • You’ve chosen a lovely gold chain, would you like to add a nice pendant to give it versatility? KEY CONCEPTS Most customers won’t tell you when they’re ready to buy, so you usually have to initiate the close. • Would you like to take advantage of today’s special sale price? Your eagerness to complete the sale is more important than the tactic you use. Be assertive but not aggressive. And remember, 80 percent of the time, you won’t close if you don’t ask. In the scenario that opened this assignment, Joseph directed Betty, a longtime customer, to a suitable gift category. He knew she was sensitive to price, but he also knew she was buying for a special occasion. He didn’t want to ignore the possibility she would spend beyond her usual limit, so he showed her a range. To Joseph’s surprise, Betty chose the expensive luxury watch. When Betty raised an objection, Joseph responded to it with an add-on. Then he picked up on her buying signal—Betty said Bob would love the items—and closed by asking if she wanted the merchandise gift-wrapped. Although Joseph knew Betty and her buying habits, he didn’t assume she would stick to them. By not restricting his thinking and by offering an addon when he saw the opportunity, Joseph made a bigger main sale than he might have, and he profited from the extra sale. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about customer service and building a clientele. You’ll also learn about Sales Step 7: Follow Up. 172 Watches and Giftware KEY CONCEPTS Quartz watches dominate today’s watch market. Use subtle questions to test your customer’s readiness to buy. The term “water resistant” has replaced the improper term “waterproof.” A price objection is usually a question of value. It’s important to know each watch’s features and how they work, so you can demonstrate them to your customers. Positive word of mouth is a powerful advertising tool. Most customers won’t tell you when they’re ready to buy, so you usually have to initiate the close. Giftware can attract customers who might also buy jewelry and can generate additional sales to jewelry buyers. Key Terms Analog watch—Timepiece with time of day and passage of time indicated by pointed devices called hands. Balance spring—A hair-thin, spiral spring that’s coupled to the balance wheel to make it rock back and forth. Balance wheel—The watch part that rocks back and forth to divide time into equal parts. Button (cell) battery—A tiny, disc-shaped battery used to power a quartz-movement watch. China—Porcelain or other high-quality translucent or white ceramic material, often used to make tableware. Chronograph—Timepiece with two independent systems that tell the time of day and measure brief time intervals. Chronometer—A Swiss-made watch that meets very high accuracy standards. Escapement lever—Device in a mechanical watch that controls the motion of the balance and escape wheels and, therefore, the rotation of the hands. Figurines—Small carved or molded figures, also called statuettes. Flatware—Knives, forks, and spoons used as utensils when eating. Hollowware—Metal tableware like bowls, pitchers, trays, and teapots made of sterling silver, silver plate, or pewter. Jewels—Natural or lab-grown gem materials used as bearings to reduce friction between watch parts. Mainspring—A strong spring that powers the watch as it unwinds. Mechanical watch—Timepiece powered by manual or automatic winding. Crystal—Tableware and ornamental objects made of finequality, brilliant glass. Men’s furnishings—Articles or accessories used or worn by men. Desk accessories—Items found on an office or home desk. Movement—The inner mechanism of a watch. Digital watch—Timepiece with time indicated numerically, usually by a liquid crystal display (LCD). Quartz watch—Timepiece powered by a battery. Earthenware—Tableware, pottery, and decorative objects made of a variety of materials, including ceramics and clay. Regulating system—A group of devices that steady the mainspring’s unwinding and perform the timekeeping function. Escape wheel—Device that works with the escapement lever to assist the timekeeping function of a mechanical watch. Water resistant—Describes a watch with the ability to prevent water penetration through its case. 173 Jewelry Essentials 5 Questions for Review n Where are the watch industry’s major commercial centers? n What types of watches dominate the market? n How does a watch keep time? n What must jewelers consider before deciding to carry giftware? n What factors apply to specializing in giftware sales? n What are some giftware categories and items? n What’s the history of enameling? n What are some enameling techniques? n What’s the role of enameling in today’s market? n What are some approaches to the trial close? n How can you overcome a price objection? n What are some ways to initiate the close? 174 Serving and Building Your Clientele 6 Sales Step 7—Follow Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Avoiding Regrets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Earning Repeat Sales. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Personalized Attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Building a Permanent Clientele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Product and Customer Knowledge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Offer Your Expertise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Provide Personal Attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Jewelry Care and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Gem Treatments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Laboratory-Grown Gems and Simulants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Explaining Care and Cleaning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Keeping Jewelry Beautiful . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Home Care. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Jewelry Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 A Take-In Example . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Sizing a Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Sizing Methods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Removing a Ring That’s Stuck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Shank and Prong Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Remounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Key Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Questions for Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 175 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 6. With the knowledge you gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to: • Recognize the importance of product knowledge to quality customer service. • Advise customers about the care and cleaning of their jewelry purchases. • Display an understanding of a variety of jewelry repair procedures. 176 Serving and Building Your Clientele iStockphoto A couple searching for that perfect engagement ring offers you one of your best jewelry sales opportunities. Serving and Building Your Clientele The young couple—Lyn and Brad—spent several minutes looking at the window displays. They were very animated, exchanging smiles and laughter as they examined the store’s selection. When they strode into the store, they seemed to have made an important decision. “You look like two people on a mission,” Ian said before introducing himself and finding out their names. “We’ve looked at rings in every store in the mall,” Brad said, “and we like the set of matching platinum and gold wedding rings in your window over there.” “Well,” Ian said, “you two are making my job really easy.” He opened the case and took out the rings to show them. “Oh, I like them so much,” Lyn said enthusiastically. “Well, that’s settled,” Brad added. “Just find us the right sizes, take my credit card, and we’ll be done.” 177 Jewelry Essentials 6 iStockphoto With the right guidance from you, there’s plenty of potential for add-on sales once they’ve chosen the perfect ring. iStockphoto iStockphoto One of the key steps to take when selling to a couple is to get them to communicate with you and with each other. Once you know what they want, you can guide them to the choice that’s right for them. It’s very rewarding to connect a couple to the jewelry piece that symbolizes their commitment to one another. “You’ve made a good choice,” Ian confirmed. “The manufacturer is European. They make some of the finest wedding sets available. By the way, have you selected gifts for the wedding party?” Lyn and Brad turned and looked at each other blankly. “Uh-oh,” they said in unison. “Wow,” Brad said, embarrassed. “Thanks for the reminder! What would you suggest, Ian?” “Well, Brad,” Ian replied, “for your best man and ushers, we have some very nice engraved pen-and-pencil sets. Would you like to see them?” 178 Serving and Building Your Clientele Brad replied that he would, and Ian showed him the store’s selection. Brad ordered a personally engraved set for his best man, and a pen for each of his four ushers. Ian complimented Brad on his choice and then turned to Lyn. “Lyn, what jewelry are you wearing during the ceremony?” Ian asked. “A strand of natural pearls that’s been passed down from my great-grandmother,” Lyn replied. “Natural pearls are extremely hard to find these days,” Ian said, “but I have something that comes close.” Ian showed Lyn and Brad a gold chain necklace with a single white pearl pendant. “This is a freshwater cultured pearl from China,” Ian said. “It grew in a mollusk like your grandmother’s pearls did, but humans had a hand in the process, too.” “If these are for my bridesmaids,” Lyn asked, “what would I give my maid of honor?” In reply, Ian showed Lyn a similar necklace with three pearls. Her decision was as quick as Brad’s had been about his gifts. She chose four singlepearl necklaces and one trio necklace. “Would you like to be listed in our client registry?” Ian asked. He went on to explain, “It’s a way we stay in touch with preferred customers. We can remind you about things like bringing your jewelry in for cleaning and let you know when we have special sales and promotions.” They agreed and Ian recorded their contact information. Ian wrapped their purchases and told Brad he’d call when his engraved pens were ready for pick-up. The couple left the store, happy and satisfied with their choices. iStockphoto Part of your job is to turn that initial engagement ring sale into a longer term commitment for your store. That evening, Ian made a follow-up phone call to Lyn and Brad. He made a note to himself of their wedding date and when they were due back from their honeymoon. The following day, he sent a congratulatory wedding card. When the couple returned home, Ian called to ask about the wedding, the wedding-party gifts, and their honeymoon. He told the newlyweds about an upcoming sale and said he would be happy to help them or any of their friends with their future jewelry needs. Sales Step 7—Follow Up n When does the follow-up process start? n What are some follow-up activities? n What are the goals of follow-up? You’ve made the sale, and your customer is about to leave the store. Your job is finished, right? Well, only if you want to increase the chance she’ll return the purchase, or if you never want to sell to her again, or if you don’t want her to refer anyone else to you. Of course, you don’t want any of those things to happen, so you know your job isn’t complete. You’ve reached Sales Step 7. It’s time to follow up. 179 Jewelry Essentials 6 Eric Welch/GIA After you’ve succeeded in closing the sale, it’s time to consider how you might follow up with your customer. iStockphoto Terri Weimer/GIA Don’t treat any sale as the end of your transaction with your customer. Consider it the inspiration for many more sales in the future. Make sure your client leaves the store with your business card and your best wishes. Treat her with the same respect you’d offer a lifelong customer. KEY CONCEPTS Your customers should see you as a gem and jewelry authority and professional resource. The follow-up process starts as soon as you’ve closed the sale and before your customer leaves the store. Give her your business card, and invite her to contact you. Be sure your professional credentials are printed on your card along with your business phone number and email address. Your customers should regard you as a gem and jewelry authority who is eager to be a professional resource. As you complete the sales process, record your customer’s contact and other information in the store’s database or your personal customer file. The information might include the customer’s name and address; home, business, and cell phone numbers; email addresses; occupation; birthday; anniversary date; ring size; gem preferences; store visit and purchase records; and preferred payment method. Of course, you should respect your customer’s privacy—some customers might not want to reveal certain information. If your store has a policy regarding compiling customer information, be sure to follow it. 180 Serving and Building Your Clientele iStockphoto Many customers feel a bit of buyer’s remorse, often centered on price and value. Make sure you follow up to reassure your client about her purchase. Avoiding Regrets After spending money, many customers experience a feeling of guilt or regret called buyer’s remorse. It occurs especially when a salesperson pushes too hard and forces a sale of something the customer doesn’t need or want. When reality strikes, the customer often returns the item. You can avoid that kind of return by listening to your customers, serving their needs, and never forcing a sale. Buyer’s remorse—A feeling of guilt or regret about having spent money, especially on a major purchase. Be aware of the possibility of buyer’s remorse, and act to alleviate it during and after your sales presentation. During the presentation, reinforce every positive comment your customer makes about the pieces you demonstrate. For example, “Yes, the best Colombian emeralds are the world standard for color. This emerald represents the finest available. It’s an excellent choice.” Or, “That’s correct. Most platinum is 90 or 95 percent pure. It complements near-colorless diamonds very well. Platinum and diamond rings are passed from mother to daughter for generations. I think you’ve made a wise choice.” On the evening after the sale or the following day, call your customer to confirm the correctness of her purchase. Compliment her choice and assure her of the piece’s value. About a week later, send her a handwritten note or an email. For example, you might say, “That lovely sapphire necklace you chose looks terrific on you. I think you’ll wear it with pride for years to come.” 181 Jewelry Essentials 6 Whether calling or writing, be sure to use “you” and “I.” Also use the customer’s name. People relish personal approval, especially when they’ve extended themselves financially and might be a little doubtful about having made the right decision. KEY CONCEPTS Follow-up contacts can help establish trust between you and your customer. Following up with a phone call and thank-you note or email helps you accomplish several things. First, by relieving buyer’s remorse, you reduce the chance your customer will return the purchase. Next, you nourish a trusting relationship between you and your customer that increases the possibility that she will come back to your store—and to you—for future purchases. Finally, you ensure your customer will speak favorably about her purchase and recommend you and your store to others. Earning Repeat Sales To earn your customers’ trust and repeat business, you want them to regard you as an expert and trusted advisor, and you want them to return to your store and to you when it’s time for another purchase. Respect, trust, and repeat sales don’t come easily. You have to earn them. Above all, you have to know gems and jewelry. And since that world constantly changes, you have to stay current. Reading trade publications and Web sites, and attending trade shows, are some of the ways to keep informed. You should also maintain regular contact with your clients. You can do that by phone, mail, and email. Let them know when you have new merchandise you think they’ll like. Remind them when it’s time to clean a jewelry piece or to replace the battery in a watch. Inform your clients of sales, promotions, and celebrations taking place in your store. Send your best wishes for anniversaries and holidays, even whimsical, offbeat occasions like St. Patrick’s Day or Groundhog Day. Eric Welch/GIA You gain a world of knowledge when you get to know your store’s inventory. The better you know what’s in your store, the more prepared you’ll be to serve your customers. 182 Serving and Building Your Clientele iStockphoto Make sure you maintain regular contact with your clients so you can let them know when your store has something new to offer. The more comfortable they feel coming in your store, the greater your chances of present and future sales success. Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Trade shows give you the opportunity to network with other trade professionals and benefit from their experience. At trade shows, you can compare the products and prices of many different suppliers. 183 Jewelry Essentials 6 Valerie Power/GIA Attending gem and jewelry trade shows like this one in Tucson, Arizona, is a great way to stay in touch with market developments. Generating increased sales and profits takes product knowledge and constant effort. Use your customer communications to reassure them about purchases, update them on new merchandise, and send them community-related news about you or your store. Scan newspapers and magazines for news or third-party endorsements about merchandise you carry. Clip and copy them, and send them with a personal note to clients you think might be interested. If your store has a Web site, refer your clients to it. It’s always easier to sell to repeat and referral customers than to new ones. Some sales associates have great success with personal newsletters. They can be on paper, email, or both. Include your photo, your store’s logo and location, and your phone number and email address. KEY CONCEPTS It’s always easier to sell to repeat and referral customers than to new ones. Don’t hesitate to ask your regular customers to refer their friends and relatives to you. Increased sales and profits don’t come to you on their own; you have to generate them. 184 Serving and Building Your Clientele Personalized Attention In today’s world, people are busier than ever with career and family, leaving little or no time for anything but necessity shopping. Try accommodating busy clients by setting up appointments for them to shop in your store. They can arrive at a specific time for a specific purpose, and you devote your attention exclusively to them. Appointment shopping and the additional personal attention it involves can pay off in bigger and more frequent sales. In the scenario that opened this assignment, Ian recognized that Lyn and Brad had done their research, and had already decided which rings they wanted to buy. He went along with their decision, making no effort to sway them. He did, however, see and take the opportunity for very significant add-on sales. Then, taking advantage of the trust and goodwill he had created, Ian entered Lyn and Brad’s information in his store’s customer database. That evening, he followed up by calling to reassure the couple about their purchases. The next day, Ian sent a congratulatory wedding card. When the couple had returned from their honeymoon, Ian called again. After learning that everything had gone well, Ian told the couple about an upcoming sale and volunteered to help their friends with their jewelry needs. By following a sound sales strategy, Ian gained two satisfied customers and opened the possibility of finding several more. iStockphoto Many people have a personal fitness trainer at the gym. You can fill a similar role where fine jewelry is concerned by becoming a trusted, personal advisor for your clients and guiding them to jewelry pieces that celebrate special moments in their lives. iStockphoto It might take some time to select a special piece for a cherished loved one. Make sure you’re there to help your client pick just the right one. 185 Jewelry Essentials 6 Oktay Ortakcioglu/iStockphoto Once you’ve established successful relationships with your clients and they’ve had positive experiences in your store, they’ll be very likely to refer friends and family to you. Building a Permanent Clientele n What are the elements of sales success? n Why is it important to know your products and customers? n How can a customer file be useful? Although catalog sales have been a mainstay for decades and Web-based sales have become more common in recent years, worldwide retail-store sales account for more than a trillion dollars in business. Much retail shopping is self-service, yet an enormous amount involves face-to-face interaction between a customer and a salesperson. 186 Serving and Building Your Clientele The Best Salespeople Research into the personalities of salespeople has shown that the best possess two equally strong traits: empathy and ego drive. Empathy is the ability to see things from another’s point of view, and to understand and identify with that person’s thoughts and feelings. The best salespeople empathize with their customers and use that connection to make sales. It’s important, though, not to let empathy become sympathy. If a salesperson agrees with the customer’s objections rather than persuasively countering them, the result is usually no sale. Ego drive is an inner need to fulfill or justify oneself by succeeding. A successful sale is a plus for both the salesperson and the customer. If the sale is not made, both come away empty-handed. The best salespeople balance empathy and ego. With too much empathy, you won’t close the sale. With too much ego drive, you ignore the customer’s needs and keep yourself from reaching the point where you can close the sale. iStockphoto The very best salespeople have special skills that help them understand customers’ needs. They’re also driven to match the right jewelry with each client because sales success is personally rewarding for them, too. Think about your own experience as a customer in a retail setting. How many of your encounters are pleasant and memorable? How many salespeople provide good service and develop a rapport with you? How many maintain contact with you after the sale? How many have you returned to for further purchases? If your experience is like most people’s, the answer to these questions is “very few.” As a beginning jewelry sales associate, you have an opportunity. You’re starting fresh, and you have a chance to do your job especially well. The most successful sales associates know their products and customers, approach sales presentations methodically, use proven sales techniques that they improve through their own experience, and serve their customers. An important element of a successful, long-term sales strategy is building and maintaining a personal clientele. 187 Jewelry Essentials 6 Eric Welch/GIA Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs You should be aware of any rare or unusual items in your store’s inventory. A pair of matched emerald cabochons as rare as these might tempt a wealthy client to request their use in custom-designed jewelry. You should understand the benefits of every piece you sell, regardless of price. The beautiful tourmaline cabochon in this ring is a worthy substitute for a more expensive gem, such as ruby. Product and Customer Knowledge The foundation of long-term sales success is knowing your products and customers, and matching them with each other. Jewelry can be quite expensive. Few customers want to spend a lot of money on something they don’t know much about, so it’s your job to educate them. If a customer shows interest in an emerald pendant in a gold setting and chain, you should be able to tell her something about the stone’s origin, its cut, color and quality, how it was treated, and how it should be cared for. You should be able to relate facts about the gold setting and chain. Customers who have confidence in you and your knowledge are much more likely to buy and come back to buy again. Robert Weldon/GIA A depth of product knowledge helps you answer your client’s questions and overcome any objections. To sell a large beautiful aquamarine ring like this, you can stress the stone’s color and clarity along with some of its special lore. KEY CONCEPTS Customers who trust your knowledge and expertise are more likely to buy from you. Customers you serve well will usually refer others to you. 188 You should know your customers as well as your products. Each customer is an individual with particular characteristics, likes, dislikes, and favorite activities. Each is likely to have trusted family members, friends, and colleagues. Each has a job, a school affiliation, an avocation, or maybe all three. Knowing your customers lets you tailor your sales presentations to suit each one and increases the likelihood of sales, bigger sales, and repeat sales. Of course, it’s not possible to learn everything about a customer in one sales encounter, but the more you can learn, the better your chances of sales success. Each customer has a personal network, so the customer you serve well will usually refer others to you. Offer Your Expertise Most people know very little about gems and jewelry. You can increase your sales and serve your customers by acting as their expert. You can gain their confidence and trust by knowing gems and jewelry, honestly conveying your knowledge, and not being too aggressive. Most people like to buy, but they don’t like being pushed in that direction. Serving and Building Your Clientele Eric Welch/GIA Use your product knowledge wisely and try to gauge your customer’s response to the information you provide. To sell a stone like this beautiful 43.52-ct. sapphire from Sri Lanka, you can emphasize its exquisite color, size, and rarity. Eric Welch/GIA You might reach a point where it’s better to stop talking and let the client admire the beauty of the jewelry piece she’s considering. Be careful not to overwhelm your customers with information. Too much information can be as deadly as none at all. Develop the ability to gauge what and how much each customer wants to know. Some technically oriented customers might want to know every scientific property of the gems or metals they buy. Others might be interested only in the lore, romance, and mystique of gems and jewelry. Still others might respond to a combination of technical information and romance. And still others might be intensely focused on price. You might be able to learn what a new customer wants or needs to know by signals she sends with her manner, dress, or questions she asks. A sure way to learn how to tailor your approach is to conduct little tests. If your customer responds eagerly to a technical fact or two, if she expresses interest when you mention a bit of gem lore, or if she pursues price when you allude to it, you’ve probably uncovered her orientation. Provide Personal Attention Your customer file can be your own personal treasure, whether it’s an electronic database or composed of individual index cards. Use the file to update each customer’s data whenever she comes in. If you don’t see a customer for a while, call or email to say, for example, that there’s a store event, new merchandise, or gem and jewelry news you thought she might be interested in. When you make contact, take the opportunity to update her entry in your customer file. A customer file can be an important part of your store’s customer service. The overall purpose of customer service is to generate goodwill. And goodwill, in turn, generates sales. 189 Jewelry Essentials 6 iStockphoto Try to stay in touch with your customers. For example, you might call your customer when a pendant comes in that matches the ring she’s already purchased. When you think of your customers as clients, you can give them personalized attention. Without being a pest, you can use the information you collect in your files to fit their purchases to their interests. Your clients are people with preferences, families, friends, relationships, hobbies, and habits. Knowing this lets you appeal directly to their interests. Rather than marketing to them in a general way, you can approach them with specifics and increase your chances of success. For example, suppose it’s May and your customer file shows that Mrs. Jones’ daughter, Ruth, just turned 18. This means she’s probably about to graduate from high school. Mrs. Jones might appreciate it if you let her know you have several new items that might be great graduation gifts. She might also be flattered by your personal attention. And she might just come in and buy one of your new items. 190 Serving and Building Your Clientele Valerie Power/GIA This modern ring contains a bezel-set 3.20-ct. pink sapphire with diamond accent stones. The stone’s unique nontraditional cut and the ring’s clean lines are very likely to spark a customer’s interest. Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Correct disclosure of the nature and care of jewelry metals and gems is a fundamental part of ethical jewelry sales. The tag on the ring’s shank clearly states its total gem weight along with the term “LAB.” To an informed salesperson, this is a clear statement that the main gem is lab-grown and that the customer must be informed about its nature. Jewelry Care and Cleaning n When does post-sale customer service begin? n What must you disclose about jewelry metals and gems? n How does product knowledge help you explain care and cleaning? KEY CONCEPTS Good customer service doesn’t stop when you make the sale. After all, your goal is to build repeat business with as many customers as possible. After-the-sale service actually starts before your customer leaves the store with her new purchase. That’s when you can take the time to explain how to care for the new jewelry and invite your customer to return if she has questions or concerns. After-the-sale customer service starts before your customer leaves the store with her new purchase. Disclosure is an essential part of the gem and jewelry industry. It means you must clearly and accurately inform your customers about the nature of the goods they buy. It’s another important way to display your knowledge and build your customers’ trust in you. Disclosure—Clearly and accurately informing customers about the nature of the goods they buy. For example, as you read in Assignment 1, no precious jewelry metals are 100 percent pure. All have at least some impurities, and many are alloyed with other metals. For example, although it’s often called “gold,” most jewelry gold sold in the US is 14K. Depending on where it’s made and sold, jewelry gold ranges from 8K to 24K. When selling metal jewelry or gems set in metal, you should disclose the metal’s composition to your customers. 191 Jewelry Essentials 6 Valerie Power/GIA These cultured pearls in a Chinese factory are being dyed to give them a subtle pink tint. Many consumers prefer their pearl jewelry to have a warm blush of pink. Harold & Erica Van Pelt Just like the fabrics used for clothing, most gems need some form of treatment to be marketable. Most customers have no problem with gem treatments if they’re told about them before purchase. Gem Treatments Treatment—Any human-controlled process, beyond cutting and polishing, that improves the appearance, durability, or value of a gem. Many gems undergo some kind of treatment, most often to enhance appearance. For example, many emeralds have fractures that are filled with oil, resin, or both to reduce their negative visual impact. Rubies and sapphires are routinely heat-treated to improve their color. Many light-colored cultured pearls are bleached to remove dark spots and produce uniform color. If the gems you sell are treated, you should tell your customers. Although some treatments are undetectable, many can be detected by trained gemologists. A retailer’s supplier is usually the best source of information regarding whether or not gems are treated. If treatment information isn’t available and you’re selling a gem known to be routinely treated, you should assume it has been and inform your customer. 192 Serving and Building Your Clientele Andy Lucas/GIA Andy Lucas/GIA Due to the way they form in nature, most emeralds require treatment to improve their appearance. These emeralds in Colombia are being prepared for treatment. Most rubies and sapphires are heated to improve color and sometimes clarity. This is a heat-treatment oven in a facility in Bangkok, Thailand. John I. Koivula/GIA Cavities on the base of this turquoise cabochon were filled with a plastic-like substance to conceal them. This and other treatments must be disclosed to the customer prior to sale. Myriam Naftule Whitney The attractive colors of these yellow to pinkish orange sapphires are the result of treatment, which must be disclosed at the point of sale. 193 Jewelry Essentials 6 Consumer interest in colored diamonds fueled demand for inexpensive imitations like cubic zirconia (CZ). This novelty elephant ring features colorless, yellow, and pink CZ along with an imitation pearl on the end of the trunk. Harold & Erica Van Pelt (loose stones) This is a selection of loose lab-grown diamonds along with some jewelry pieces containing them. Some owe their colors to treatment. Lab-grown diamonds like these are becoming more available in today’s jewelry. Laboratory-Grown Gems and Simulants Lab-grown gem—A manmade (synthetic) gem with essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and properties as its natural counterpart. Simulant (imitation)—A natural or manmade material that resembles a gem. Many gems that appear to be natural are actually lab-grown. They’re manmade (synthetic) gems with the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and properties as their natural-gem counterparts. Others are imitations, or simulants—lookalikes made of a variety of natural and manmade materials. Often, the intention is not to deceive but to produce a less expensive alternative. If the gem you’re selling is lab-grown or a simulant, you must disclose this to your customers. Problems arise when someone sells gems and jewelry as something they’re not. Dishonesty hurts everybody. Dishonest retailers or wholesalers lose customers and reputations, and bad publicity hurts their businesses. Customers lose money and faith. The industry as a whole loses stature in the public’s eyes. Maha Tannous/GIA In today’s marketplace, there’s a wide variety of lab-grown materials. These include lab-grown ruby and sapphire, spinel, emerald, opal, amethyst, and even diamond. 194 Serving and Building Your Clientele Explaining Care and Cleaning Product knowledge is essential when you explain basic care and cleaning methods. It’s also important if a customer returns with a piece of jewelry for cleaning or repair. Your product knowledge will help you know how to handle it. You’ve learned that different metals have different properties and that some gems scratch easily. It’s important to be able to convey this information to your customers, but it’s equally important not to scare them. If you educate your customers properly, they’ll be impressed with your expertise and concern, and will be more likely to return to you for their next jewelry purchase. Hard gemstones, like diamonds (the hardest), rubies, and sapphires, will scratch not only softer gemstones, like cultured pearls and opals, but also precious metals. Metals can scratch other metals, and chains can tangle, twist, and get damaged if they’re stored or handled carelessly. Metals and other gems can easily damage a cultured pearl’s surface, so you should encourage customers to take extra care with their cultured pearl jewelry. They should never toss it into a purse or jewelry box with other jewelry. If possible, each piece should be individually wrapped in a soft silk or cotton bag. All jewelry, no matter what it’s made of, should be handled with care and respect. Jewelry should be kept in a clean, protected place, preferably a lined jewelry box with separated sections. Sophia By Design/Matt Biller Photography With the right maintenance care, your clients’ jewelry collections can last for a lifetime, and even become treasures for the following generations. KEY CONCEPTS Jewelry should be stored separately in a clean, protected place. Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA The compartments in this jewelry box prevent the individual jewelry pieces from contacting and accidentally damaging each other. When you present fine jewelry, be sure to use a soft display pad and handle the piece with respect. This is also a good time to start explaining care and cleaning to your customer. 195 Jewelry Essentials 6 Eric Welch/GIA It’s very important to follow your store’s take-in procedures. Make sure you accurately record the condition and nature of any jewelry pieces according to your store’s established policies. Eric Welch/GIA Offering routine jewelry cleaning and inspection brings customers back into your store. This gives you the opportunity to show them new items and generate repeat sales. KEY CONCEPTS Jewelry should be professionally cleaned and checked periodically. Take-in—A procedure for receiving customer jewelry for repair, appraisal, or cleaning. Keeping Jewelry Beautiful Tell your customers it’s a good idea to bring jewelry in for routine cleaning and inspection. This is especially important if they plan to wear their jewelry regularly. Prongs can be damaged and mountings can wear out, increasing the chances of gemstone loss. The procedure for accepting a customer’s jewelry for cleaning, repair, or appraisal is called take-in. You should learn and precisely follow your store’s take-in procedure. Take-in procedures are designed to reveal and record the true nature and condition of a customer’s gems and jewelry. That way, when the work is completed, the customer will have no basis for accusing you of switching stones or causing pre-existing damage. Many stores offer free jewelry cleanings or inspections at set intervals— commonly every six months. If your store has such a policy, tell your customer about it. The added advantage for you is that every return trip gives you the chance to sell another piece of jewelry. 196 Serving and Building Your Clientele Eric Welch/GIA If you offer jewelry repair on the premises, it can often help if your bench jeweler explains the repair process to the customer. Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs Never place jewelry that contains emeralds into an ultrasonic cleaner. It’s much better to clean a beautiful ring like this by hand. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Ultrasonic cleaners are very effective and widely used for cleaning jewelry. Although they’re safe to use with many materials, some gems should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. Porous gems like coral should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic machine. Even if your store has equipment and procedures for cleaning jewelry, you should clean jewelry only if you have the proper training. If you don’t, ask a trained associate for advice. An ultrasonic cleaner cleans jewelry with high-frequency sound waves that pass through a liquid cleaning solution. The ultrasonic cleaners commonly used in jewelry stores aren’t appropriate for all gems. They should never be used to clean various treated gems or easily damaged gems like emerald, tanzanite, opal, pearl, and coral. Ultrasonic cleaner—A machine that cleans jewelry with high-frequency sound waves in a liquid solution. 197 Jewelry Essentials 6 Shutterstock Tarnished silver can be quickly restored using special cleaning solutions. Shutterstock Many household cleaning products contain harsh chemicals that can damage some gems. If in doubt, it’s best to remove jewelry before starting a cleaning project. Home Care Like gemstones, the beauty of the metals in jewelry can be maintained by a daily wipe with a soft, dry cloth. There are commercial jewelry cleaners made for home use, but remind your customers to check the labels to be sure the cleaners won’t harm the gems in their new jewelry. Prolonged exposure to chlorine can damage and discolor karat gold and sterling silver. It actually affects the alloying metals, not the gold or silver. Tell your customers to keep their jewelry away from household cleansers that contain chlorine bleach, and out of swimming pools and spas that contain chlorine. A polishing cloth works best for gently cleaning karat-gold and silver jewelry. Paper towels can scratch gold and silver, so they’re not a good choice. Most of the care-and-cleaning rules and cautions for karat gold also apply to platinum. Also, a professional repolishing can remove scratches from karat gold and platinum with very little metal loss. Suggest storing sterling silver jewelry in anti-tarnish cloths or bags. Tarnished sterling silver requires repolishing or special cleaning solutions. 198 Serving and Building Your Clientele Jewelry Repairs n n n What’s the first step to take when a customer brings in a piece of jewelry? How does knowledge of gems and metals help you when taking in jewelry repairs? How can jewelry repairs offer the opportunity for additional sales? Another customer service opportunity arises when people bring jewelry in for repair. While this lets you help customers keep their jewelry in good condition, you can also assist and advise them if problems occur. An important first step is always to inspect the customer’s jewelry to ensure its condition and to make the customer aware of any problems that might arise with the repair. Also make sure to document this information and give the customer a copy. Eric Welch/GIA Jewelry repair and maintenance programs give stores the opportunity for customer contact that extends well beyond initial sales. Valerie Power/GIA Some stores feature their jewelry repair facilities prominently. This one has a large window so clients can see the bench jeweler at work. 199 Jewelry Essentials 6 Eric Welch/GIA When you take in jewelry, make sure you examine each piece carefully with a 10X loupe. A Take-In Example Suppose Mrs. Smith bought a new pair of diamond stud earrings from you last year. Following your advice, she brings them in for cleaning. She also brings some other pieces from her collection: a channel-set diamond ring, a prong-set ruby ring she inherited from an aunt, and a 14K yellow gold band. “All of these need cleaning,” she says, “especially the diamond ring. And I’d like to get it and the plain band sized up—they’re both a little tight these days.” Loupe—A small, handheld magnifying device. You inspect each piece with a 10X loupe, the standard jewelry industry handheld magnifier. The earrings, the diamond ring, and the plain band are all in good shape. A thorough cleaning will make them sparkle and shine. The ruby ring is another matter, though. Its fine-looking ruby was once held in place by six gold prongs, but one of the prongs is bent away from the stone. The tops of the other five are so badly worn it’s a miracle the stone is still in place. A check confirms years of accumulated dirt under the stone. The dirt is probably what’s holding the stone in place. You also notice the shank has worn dangerously thin. You measure Mrs. Smith’s finger and find it’s a size 7. The diamond ring and the plain gold band are both size 6. You excuse yourself while you consult with your store’s bench jeweler about the work that has to be done on the three rings, then return to talk to Mrs. Smith. “Cleaning these pieces will take just a few minutes,” you tell her. “And our bench jeweler can size the plain band immediately. Sizing the channel-set ring is a little more complicated, so you’ll have to leave it with us for a few days. “I’d like to bring some things to your attention about your ruby ring, though,” you continue. “One of the prongs is pulled away from the stone, and the other five are badly worn. It’s amazing that the ruby is still in place. 200 Serving and Building Your Clientele “On top of that, see how thin the shank is?” you ask as you turn the ring over. “It’s almost worn through. We can repair the prongs, and it’s usually not difficult to replace part of a shank. It’s no more complicated than sizing a ring, especially one with such a simple design. “But taken all together, I think you might be better off if we take the ruby out of the ring and remount it. We have a selection of mountings you can choose from. In the long run, it’ll be less expensive than trying to repair everything that’s needed here. Of course, your decision depends on your emotional attachment to your aunt’s ring, though you’ll still have her lovely ruby. If you’d rather keep the ring as an heirloom, we can certainly restore it for you.” Remounting—Removing a gem or gems and resetting them in a new mounting. Sizing a Ring One of the most frequent jewelry repair services is ring sizing. When it’s done right, the ring fits well and comfortably, and if the shank is cut, the seams where the ring was made larger or smaller are invisible. The bench jeweler is responsible for the quality of the resizing and finish work. But it’s up to you to make sure you take proper measurements of your customer’s finger. Many manufacturers provide ring gauges for sizing. The gauges come in two widths. When you measure a customer’s finger, use the width that most closely matches the ring that’s being resized. When you try the ring gauge on a customer’s finger, make sure it fits the way the final resized ring should fit. Always ask the customer how it feels too. Don’t assume it’s sized correctly only because it looks as if it fits. The customer might feel it’s a little too snug or too loose. In that case, keep trying until you get the right size. Also keep in mind that finger size can change with the weather, after exercise, and other times when hands swell. Eric Welch/GIA A ring stretcher is useful for certain ring styles, such as this plain band. It can damage other styles, such as rings set with gems. 201 Jewelry Essentials 6 Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Sizing a ring is a process that takes great skill and care. To make a ring larger, the bench jeweler starts by cutting the ring to prepare it for sizing. The jeweler marks the precious metal insert where he's going to cut it. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA After cutting, the jeweler solders the precious metal insert in place. The resized ring is then ready for filing and polishing. Mandrel—Tapered, cylindrical metal rod with measurement marks used to determine a ring’s size. Most bench jewelers have a ring mandrel to measure ring size. It’s a tapered, round metal rod marked with ring-size measurements. Be sure the sizes of the ring gauges match those marked on the jeweler’s mandrel. A properly resized ring passes easily over the knuckle and fits comfortably on the customer’s finger. Some customers might have special needs—such as swollen joints—that require extra care in ring sizing. In these cases, an adjustable shank might be the answer. Sizing Methods When you take a ring in for sizing, you should be aware of potential problems so you can tell your customer about them. She must understand that resizing causes physical changes in a ring’s structure. A ring can be resized by stretching, soldering in a new section, or by sawing a section out and resoldering the ends together. 202 Serving and Building Your Clientele Eric Welch/GIA Resizing rings that contain mounted gems requires great care and skill. Use of a ring stretcher is the quickest way to resize a ring, but it has its limitations. The stretcher is generally used only on plain bands because stretching gem-set rings can damage both the ring and the gems. And there are limits to how much you can stretch a ring, depending on the ring and its condition. Stretching might also reduce the thickness of the shank or distort the ring’s texture slightly. You can resize a ring with a stretcher only once. If you try to stretch a previously resized ring, the shank will split. Mrs. Smith’s plain band can be easily sized on a ring stretcher, but her channel-set ring requires a more complex sizing operation. It can be sized up by soldering a small piece of metal into the bottom of the shank, then styling the new metal to match. Fortunately, in this case the ring has to increase only one size. The channel setting might not withstand more than that. Trying to get it any larger could cause the stones to loosen and fall out or rub together and chip. Ring stretcher—A device that stretches a ring shank to increase its diameter. KEY CONCEPTS A ring’s style and condition determine how much you can stretch it. To make a ring smaller, the bench jeweler saws the appropriate amount of metal out of the shank. The next step is to bring the two ends of the shank together and solder them, and finally to file and polish the metal to make the repair invisible. Reducing the size of some rings too much distorts and damages the setting and might cause the gems to be damaged or lost. Sizing channel-set rings and other types of gem-set rings requires extreme care to avoid damaging the settings or the stones. Rings set with gems might have limits on the range they can be sized, or whether they can be sized at all. It’s best to consult a bench jeweler or an experienced coworker. 203 Jewelry Essentials 6 Removing a Ring That’s Stuck You’ll occasionally have a customer with a ring stuck on his or her finger. The ring must come off, perhaps for repair or resizing, or even because it’s become a hazard. Soapy water and a little tugging will often lead to successful removal. Some rings are so stubborn, however, that a bench jeweler or other trained person will have to use a special tool called a ring cutter. It looks a little like a pair of pliers, and it’s designed to gently cut the ring’s shank and allow its removal, while sparing your customer’s finger. Things get a bit more complicated if the stubborn band is an eternity ring. If you have to use a ring cutter, make sure its blade fits between two stones. Otherwise, the jeweler will have to remove a stone, cut the metal at the space made, and remount the stone in the resized mounting. Shank and Prong Repairs Half-shanking—Partially replacing a ring shank that’s damaged or worn. Retipping—Rebuilding the top of a prong with matching metal. One way to deal with a shank that’s worn thin is to replace at least half of the shank with a piece of matching jewelry metal. This procedure is called half-shanking. After soldering the new section in place, the bench jeweler files and polishes the metal to match the rest of the ring. As with a good sizing job, the results of this operation should be undetectable. Because prongs often rise above the mounting, they’re exposed to a lot of wear. Even with the utmost care, the tops of the prongs can wear down over time. More than one jewelry owner has had the heartbreaking experience of losing a valuable gem because of worn prongs. If the tops of the prongs are worn, a bench jeweler can simply retip them. He does this by adding matching metal to the tops of the prongs, then styling the rebuilt tips to match the others. Usually, it’s necessary to retip all the prongs so they match. Eric Welch/GIA During retipping, the top of a prong is rebuilt to hold a gem more securely. 204 Serving and Building Your Clientele Eric Welch/GIA Then the jeweler files it down to give it a finished look. Eric Welch/GIA With the tip held in place, the bench jeweler carefully solders it to the existing setting. Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA After filing, the ring goes through a series of polishing steps to make it look as good as new. After cleaning in an ultrasonic machine, the final step is to complete the cleaning process in a steam cleaner. Retipping is possible only if the gems can withstand the heat of the bench jeweler’s torch. An alternative is to use a laser welder. Otherwise, the stones have to be taken out and reset. If the prong is badly worn or missing, it usually has to be replaced in a procedure called repronging. If the tip of the prong is below the stone’s girdle, it must be repronged. A well-executed retipping is unnoticeable, but it results in a much more secure setting. Repronging—Replacing a prong. There’s a third alternative beyond retipping or repronging. If the setting is badly worn or damaged, it might be safer and more cost effective to replace the entire head. This is a decision your bench jeweler or supervisor can help you explore with your customer. 205 Jewelry Essentials 6 Eric Welch/GIA When an older piece has worn out from use, a customer might want to have the gems remounted into an identical ring. Another option is to use the gems in a striking new mounting. Remounting There are lots of reasons for remounting a stone. The jewelry might be severely worn away or the owner might be tired of the jewelry and want a new look. Blank mounting—An empty mounting with space for gems of a customer’s choosing. Some stores keep blank mountings or semi-mounts in stock, while other stores order them as needed. A blank mounting has no stones in it at all, while a semi-mount has only its accent stones set in place. If you have blank mountings on hand, you can use them as a sales tool. A blank mounting is especially useful if the stones in the customer’s ring are loose. You can temporarily position them in a blank mounting so the customer can see what the new finished jewelry will look like. If your store doesn’t stock blank mountings you can usually show customers pictures from your supplier’s catalog. There are also computer programs that can help you work with the customer to “design” a new ring. These programs include catalogs of mountings and findings. These are just a few examples of what’s involved in jewelry repair. The list of things that can happen to jewelry—and the ways to fix the damage that results—is endless. You can educate yourself about ring sizing, repairs, and remounting by talking with your store’s bench jeweler, owner, manager, or other sales associates. Listen carefully to experienced coworkers when they explain repair procedures to customers. It’s especially important to be aware of some ring styles—tension-set rings, for example—that should never be resized. Eric Welch/GIA No matter what the reasons are for a remount, it’s another great opportunity to cement your relationship with a client. Every time they return to your store, you have a chance for another sale. Good luck! 206 In this assignment, you’ve seen that follow-up and customer service have many aspects and require a wide variety of skills. But they’re important factors in ensuring satisfied customers who keep their purchases, come back to buy again and again, and recommend you and your store to others. With these skills, along with the knowledge you’ve gained in this course, you’re well on your way to a rewarding sales career filled with excitement, opportunity, and challenge. Serving and Building Your Clientele KEY CONCEPTS Your customers should see you as a gem and jewelry authority and professional resource. Follow-up contacts can help establish trust between you and your customer. Generating increased sales and profits takes product knowledge and constant effort. It’s always easier to sell to repeat and referral customers than to new ones. Customers who trust your knowledge and expertise are more likely to buy from you. Customers you serve well will usually refer others to you. After-the-sale customer service starts before your customer leaves the store with her new purchase. Jewelry should be stored separately in a clean, protected place. Jewelry should be professionally cleaned and checked periodically. A ring’s style and condition determine how much you can stretch it. Key Terms Blank mounting—An empty mounting with space for gems of a customer’s choosing. Buyer’s remorse—A feeling of guilt or regret about having spent money, especially on a major purchase. Repronging—Replacing a prong. Retipping—Rebuilding the top of a prong with matching metal. Disclosure—Clearly and accurately informing customers about the nature of the goods they buy. Ring stretcher—A device that stretches a ring shank to increase its diameter. Half-shanking—Partially replacing a ring shank that’s damaged or worn. Simulant (imitation)—A natural or manmade material that resembles a gem. Lab-grown gem—A manmade (synthetic) gem with essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and properties as its natural counterpart. Take-in—A procedure for receiving customer jewelry for repair, appraisal, or cleaning. Loupe—A small, handheld magnifying device. Mandrel—Tapered, cylindrical metal rod with measurement marks used to determine a ring’s size. Remounting—Removing a gem or gems and resetting them in a new mounting. Treatment—Any human-controlled process, beyond cutting and polishing, that improves the appearance, durability, or value of a gem. Ultrasonic cleaner—A machine that cleans jewelry with high-frequency sound waves in a liquid solution. 207 Jewelry Essentials 6 Questions for Review n When does the follow-up process start? n What are some follow-up activities? n What are the goals of follow-up? n What are the elements of sales success? n Why is it important to know your products and customers? n How can a customer file be useful? n When does post-sale customer service begin? n What must you disclose about jewelry metals and gems? n How does product knowledge help you explain care and cleaning? n What’s the first step to take when a customer brings in a piece of jewelry? n How does knowledge of gems and metals help you when taking in jewelry repairs? n How can jewelry repairs offer the opportunity for additional sales? 208 Jewelry Essentials Photo Courtesies The Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people and organizations for their assistance in gathering or producing some of the images used in this assignment book: A. Gunalp Horologist Watch & Clock Shop John C. Nordt Company Peggy Tsamis Ambar Diamonds John O'Hara Petra Jewelry Bill Gangi KCB Natural Pearls Piaget Clara Zink King Plutarco, Inc. RareSource Craig Danforth L. Sunderdas Zaveri Richard Krementz Gemstones Crown Color Linneys & Bill Reed Rose Tozer Dalia Livingstone Jewelry Royal Maui Jewelers Don Yesid Nieto, Bogota, Colombia Luz M. Lopez S Shah Inc. Duncan Pay M & M Dynasty Sharon Doar-Toth Dynamic International Maija Neimanis Signed Pieces New York Emitations Marianne Hunter in memory of Sammie Dunn Silver Universe Fai Dee Inc. Marisa Goebbel FEI Mark Maxwell Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond Company gift Finell's Jewelers Mary Mathews Steven Silver Four Seasons’ Jewelry Corporation Mauro Souza Temption of Herrenberg, Germany Frances Klein Antique/Estate Jewels Michael Scott Terrence O'Halloran G.E.O. International Co. Mona Lee Nesseth and Michelle Laurenti The Neil Lane Collection Gemesis Corp Mona Lee Nesseth and Private Collector Thistle & Bee GEMOL Mr. and Mrs. G. C. Munn Timeless Treasures Golda Jewelry Munsteiner Toledo Fine Art Jewelry Green Creations, Inc. Museo del Oro de Colombia Tops Jewlery Håbit Nafco Gems Traditional Jewelers Hamilton Jewelers Neil Lane, Inc. Tiffany's Hoover & Strong Norman Silverman Los Angeles Vanna K. Jewelry Iridesse Novelty Jewellers Vartanian & Sons J Grahl Design Oro Jewellery Store Mumbai Vasken Aintablian Jan Goodman Co. Paljoue Venus Gems, Surat, India Jana Miyahira-Smith Pankaj Handicrafts, Pankaj Gems, Pankaj Arts Xuwen Pearl Paradise Co., Ltd. Jane Bohan gift Paspaley Yossi Dina and Donna Powell Jeanne Johngren Design gift Paula Crevoshay ZDNY and Co. Inc. 209 For Further Reading For Further Reading Gems & Gemology (G&G), GIA’s professional journal, and GIA’s website (www.gia.edu) provide in-depth feature articles on the latest gemological research, from gem treatments, lab-grown gems, and the evaluation of gem quality to developments in gem production, market sources, and more. To give you the opportunity to learn more about the subjects you are studying and enrich your gemological knowledge, a list of articles relevant to each Jewelry Essentials assignment is provided below. It is important to note that this reading is optional. You will not be tested on the content of these articles. All G&G articles are available for download free of charge at www.gia.edu. Copies of these articles are also available at your GIA campus location. Check with your instructor for access to them. Scan the QR code above or go to https://www.gia.edu/library to access articles for further reading. Assignment 1: Jewelry and Jewelry Sales Gems & Gemology current issue https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology News and Articles https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research GIA Gem Encyclopedia https://www.gia.edu/gem-encyclopedia GIA Birthstones for Each Month https://www.gia.edu/birthstones Lucas A. et al. (2016) Jewelers to the Maharajas of Jaipur and Modern-Day Moguls. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/jaipur-india-jewelers-maharajas-modern-day-moguls Hsu T. et al. (2014) Exploring the Chinese Gem and Jewelry Industry. Gems & Gemology, Spring 2014, Vol. 50, No. 1 https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/spring-2014-lucas-chinese-gem-industry Lucas A. (2013) The Rise of the Brazilian Jewelry Industry. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-rise-of-the-brazilian-jewelry-industry Assignment 2: Selling Rings Super Bowl Rings: A Gallery of NFL Championship Rings (2016) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-super-bowl-rings Hoop Dreams: NBA Championship Rings (2016) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/nba-championship-rings Quality Assurance Benchmarks* https://www.gia.edu/quality-assurance-benchmark *Quality Assurance Benchmarks provide an objective method for ensuring the production and presentation of quality jewelry. Learn how to compare jewelry against acknowledged criteria, how to achieve quality workmanship at the bench, and the unique characteristics of various alloys. 211 Jewelry Essentials Assignment 3: Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins Jeweled Butterflies Welcome Spring. (2015) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-butterfly-jewelry Jewelry That Speaks the Language of Flowers. (2015) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/flower-jewelry Assignment 4: Designer, Branded, Custom, and Estate Jewelry Bohannon S. (2018) A Glittering Garden: A Menagerie of Designs from Mother Nature. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/glittering-garden-menagerie-designs-mother-nature Echoes of the Edwardian Era. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/edwardian The Jewelry of Downton Abbey. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/downton-abbey-jewelry The Timeless Allure of Art Deco. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/art-deco Reinventing Lace (2013) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-lace-jewelry Misiorowski E. (2000) Jewelry of the 1990s. Gems & Gemology, Volume 36, No. 4 https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/winter-2000-jewelry-1990s-misiorowski Misiorowski E. (1990) Jewelry of the 1980s: A Retrospective. Gems & Gemology, Volume 26, No. 1 https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/spring-1990-jewelry-retrospective-misiorowski Thomas S.A. (1987) “Modern” Jewelry: Retro to Abstract. Gems & Gemology, Volume 23, No. 1 https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/spring-1987-modern-jewelry-thomas Ebert J.M. (1983) Art Deco: The Period, the Jewelry. Gems & Gemology, Volume 19, No. 1 https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/spring-1983-art-deco-ebert Assignment 5: Watches and Giftware Shor R. (2016) Luxury Watch Companies Tone Down the Bling in 2016. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/luxury-watch-companies-tone-down-bling-2016 Assignment 6: Serving and Building Your Clientele Heart Jewelry and Gems for a Valentine (2016) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/heart-jewelry-gems-valentines-day Tips on Caring for Jewelry (2015) GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-tips-caring-jewelry Modern Men’s Jewelry. GIA Research & News https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-modern-mens-jewelry Quality Assurance Benchmarks https://www.gia.edu/quality-assurance-benchmark 212 For Further Reading Alexandrite Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/alexandrite-care-cleaning Amber Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/amber-care-cleaning Amethyst Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/amethyst-care-cleaning Ametrine Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/ametrine-care-cleaning Aquamarine Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/aquamarine-care-cleaning Citrine Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/citrine-care-cleaning Diamond Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/diamond-care-cleaning Fancy Color Diamond Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/fancy-color-diamond-care-cleaning Emerald Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/emerald-care-cleaning Garnet Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/garnet-care-cleaning Iolite Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/iolite-care-cleaning Jade Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/jade-care-cleaning Kunzite Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/kunzite-care-cleaning Lapis Lazuli Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/lapis-lazuli-care-cleaning Moonstone Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/moonstone-care-cleaning Morganite Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/morganite-care-cleaning Opal Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/opal-care-cleaning Pearl Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/pearl-care-cleaning Peridot Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/peridot-care-cleaning Rose Quartz Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/rose-quartz-care-cleaning 213 Jewelry Essentials Ruby Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/ruby-care-cleaning Sapphire Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/sapphire-care-cleaning Spinel Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/spinel-care-cleaning Sunstone Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/sunstone-care-cleaning Tanzanite Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/tanzanite-care-cleaning Topaz Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/topaz-care-cleaning Tourmaline Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/tourmaline-care-cleaning Turquoise Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/turquoise-care-cleaning Zircon Care and Cleaning https://www.gia.edu/zircon-care-cleaning 214