International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019, 41, 311–319 doi: 10.1111/ics.12538 Striae reconstructed, a full thickness skin model that recapitulates the pathology behind stretch marks M. Perez-Aso , A. Roca, J. Bosch and B. Martınez-Teipel Provital, S.A., Gorgs Llado 200, 08210 Barbera del Valles, Barcelona, Spain Received 27 March 2019, Accepted 3 May 2019 Keywords: cell culture, genetic analysis, skin physiology/structure, stretch marks, full thickness reconstructed skin model Abstract OBJECTIVE: Stretch marks are disfiguring skin lesions that often cause problems of self-esteem, but little effort has been put to studying this pathology. We therefore analysed cell cultures of dermal fibroblasts isolated from a striae albae, to thereafter reconstruct a full thickness skin model. METHODS: Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDF) were isolated from a striae distensae (SD) lesion and from the adjacent non-lesioned skin. The dermis of two full thickness skin models was reconstructed with either striae- or normal-HDF, while the epidermis was in both reconstructed with Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes. RESULTS: Main observations and pertinent data: Gene expression analysis of cell cultures revealed a generalized decomposition of the Extra Cellular Matrix (ECM), since collagens type I and III, lysyl oxidase (LOX), biglycan, lumican and fibronectin were downregulated, while MMP3 was increased together with a decrease of its natural inhibitors (TIMP1, TIMP2 and PAI-1). These findings were statistically corroborated for key ECM elements at the protein level (COL1, MMP1 and TGFB1). Interestingly, striae albae fibroblasts retained a pro-inflammatory phenotype, as suggested by increased gene expression of CXCL8, HAS1 and TNFA. We next reconstructed a full thickness skin model (Striae Reconstructed) with dermal fibroblasts from striae albae. Gene expression analysis showed that the Striae Reconstructed elicited not only ECM decomposition, but also skin ageing, as indicated by the upregulation of P16, PTGS2 and SOD2. Discussion points: Although the epidermis was constructed with normal human epidermal keratinocytes, the Striae Reconstructed presented epidermal atrophy and a dramatic increase of b1-integrin at the epidermal-dermal junction providing, for the first time to our knowledge, a rationale showing that the key cell player behind stretch marks are dermal fibroblasts rather than epidermal keratinocytes. CONCLUSION: New knowledge: Taken together, our findings shed new light into the aetiology of stretch marks and indicate that the Striae Reconstructed, a new model for in vitro testing and drug Correspondence: Miguel Perez-Aso, Provital, S.A. Pol. Ind. Can Salvatella - c. Gorgs Llad o, 200, 08210 Barber a del Valles – Barcelona, Spain. Tel.: +34 937192350; fax: +34 937190294; e-mail: m.aso@provitalgroup.com Part of the present work was presented at the IFSCC 2018 Munich congress. screening, may open new avenues for the treatment of stretch marks. sume Re OBJECTIFS: Les vergetures sont des lesions cutanees defigurantes qui posent souvent des problemes d’estime de soi, mais peu d’efforts ont ete consacres dans l’etude de cette pathologie. Nous avons donc analyse des cultures cellulaires de fibroblastes dermiques isoles d’un stria alba, afin de reconstruire ensuite un modele de peau avec une pleine epaisseur. METHODES: Des fibroblastes dermiques humains (FDH) ont ete isoles d’une lesion de Stria distensae (SD) et d’une peau adjacente sans lesion. Le derme de deux modeles de peau de pleine epaisseur a ete reconstruit avec du HDF striae- ou normal, tandis que l’epiderme etait reconstruit avec des keratinocytes humains normaux. RESULTATS: Principales observations et donnees pertinentes: L’analyse de l’expression genique de cultures cellulaires a revele une decomposition generalisee de la matrice extra-cellulaire (MEC) car les collagenes de types I et III, la lysyl oxydase, le biglycane, le lumican et la fibronectine etaient regules negativement, tandis que la MMP3 augmentait ses inhibiteurs naturels diminuaient (TIMP1, TIMP2 et PAI-1). Ces resultats ont ete corrobores statistiquement pour les elements cles de la MEC au niveau de la proteine (COL1, MMP1 et TGFB1). Il est interessant de noter que les fibroblastes de Striae albae ont conserve un phenotype proinflammatoire, comme le suggere l’augmentation de l’expression des genes de CXCL8, HAS1 et TNFA. Nous avons ensuite reconstruit un modele de peau de pleine epaisseur (Stria Reconstructed) avec des fibroblastes dermiques de Striae albae. L’analyse de l’expression genique a montre que la reconstruction de Striae induisait non seulement la decomposition de la MEC, mais egalement le vieillissement de la peau, comme l’indique la regulation a la hausse de P16, PTGS2 et SOD2. Points de discussion : Bien que l’epiderme ait ete construit avec des keratinocytes humains normaux, les stries reconstruites presentaient une atrophie epidermique et une augmentation spectaculaire du taux de b1-integrine au niveau de la jonction epidermo-dermique, fournissant pour la premiere fois une explication rationnelle qui demontre que les cellules principales impliquees dans la pathologie de la Striae sont les fibroblastes et non les keratinocytes. CONCLUSION: Nouvelles connaissances: Ensemble, nos resultats donnent une nouvelle lumiere sur l’etiologie des vergetures et indiquent que le Striae Reconstructed, un nouveau modele de test in vitro et de depistage du medicament, pourrait ^etre une avancee pour le traitement des vergetures. © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie 311 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks M. Perez-Aso et al. Introduction elective surgery. The cells were isolated by centrifugal force following enzymatic collagenase digestion. Cells isolated with this procedure were purchased from Zenbio (Zenbio Inc., Research Triangle Park, NC, USA) and were grown in high-glucose DMEM-GlutaMax medium (Gibco, Carlsbad, CA, USA), supplemented with 10% foetal bovine serum (FBS), 1% penicillin/streptomycin and maintained at 95% humidity in 5% CO2 environment at 37°C. Striae Distensae (SD) are common lesions which can pose a significant psychological burden for patients [1] and are a very challenging cosmetic problem for dermatologists to treat [2]. SD are characterized by linear, smooth bands of atrophic-appearing skin that are reddish at first and finally white [3], which are two clinically and histopathologically distinguishable forms of SD: striae rubrae and striae albae [1]. Pregnancy, sudden weight gain, rapid growth and Cushing’s disease, endogenous or steroid-induced are the most frequent causes of this disease, while genetic factors are also involved. However, the precise aetiology of SD is not fully known [3]. In this line, a number of aetiological theories have been postulated, including inadequate development of the skin (especially elastic fibres and collagen [1,4]), mechanical stretching of the skin and endocrine imbalance [1]. The lesions generally follow cleavage lines transverse to the direction of greatest tension, occurring most commonly on the abdomen, buttocks and thighs, as well as in the inguinal region. Histologically, SD show variously a thin, flattened epidermis, fraying and separation of collagen bundles with dilatation of blood vessels, and/or separation or total absence of elastic fibres. Paradoxically, SD are a common cause of consultation for dermatologists but have somehow rarely been the subject of research and thus, their mechanism of development remains still disputed [5]. Analysis of skin biopsies shows that expression of collagen, elastin and fibronectin fibres in SD is significantly reduced compared to normal skin [3,6–8]. In agreement, studies with cultures of fibroblasts from SD indicate that these cells express lower levels of collagen, elastin and fibronectin, that are functionally dormant [9] and that show altered contractile forces [5]. It was therefore hypothesized that persistent mechanical forces may induce local damage of the skin structure, but permanent lesions occur only in patients whose dermal fibroblasts are incapable of quick repair of these stretch-dependent injuries [9]. Largely driven by regulatory authorities and industry, there is a focus in standardizing alternative skin models that produce results that correlate with those of in vivo human studies [10]. Several surrogate skin models have been developed for the demonstration of bioequivalence with in vivo human skin. In particular, culturebased reconstructed full thickness (FT) skin models, with layers of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) and keratinocytes, achieve a structure resembling the in vivo skin organization, which may be useful for in vitro screening of compound candidates [11]. Although it has been suggested that fibroblasts in the dermis may play a role in the development of stretch marks [9], to our knowledge, there is no previous description of a FT skin model constructed with dermal fibroblasts from SD lesions. We therefore sought to develop a FT skin model with SD-HDF, previously analysed ex vivo, and with keratinocytes from non-lesioned skin. We named this new skin model Striae Reconstructed which, as far as we know, is the first successful attempt to build a FT skin model with Striae Distensae Human Dermal Fibroblasts (SD-HDF) that recapitulates the pathology of stretch marks. Optimal cutting temperature compound frozen sections were washed with MilliQ water (EMD Millipore, Billerica, MA, USA) and fixed with paraformaldehyde 4% for 15 min. Then, sections were impermeabilized with 0.5% Triton for 30 min and blocked in PBSBSA 6% for 45 min, incubated with the Anti-Integrin beta 1 antibody [12G10](ab30394; Abcam, Cambridge, UK, 1:25) at 4°C overnight and repeatedly washed using PBS-BSA 6%. Incubation of the secondary antibody (Ms-A488 A11017; Molecular Probes Carlsbad, CA, USA, 1:200) was performed for 1 h at room temperature followed by repeated washes using PBS-BSA 6%. Then cells were incubated with Hoechst (H3570, Invitrogen Carlsbad, CA, USA, 1:400) and with Cell MaskTM (C10046, Molecular Probes Carlsbad, CA, USA, 1:500) for 10 min in darkness at room temperature and washed again with PBS-BSA 6%. Slides were mounted using Fluoprep (BioMerieux, Marcy l’Etoile, France). Confocal images were obtained on a LEICA TCS SP5 laser scanning microscope (Leica Microsystems, Heidelberg, Germany) using either the line 488 nm and emission 500–550 nm for Alexa 488, 405 nm excitation and emission 420–480 nm for Hoechst or 633 nm excitation and emission 650–780 nm for Cell MaskTM. The confocal pinhole was set to 1 Airy unit and z-stacks acquisition intervals were selected to satisfy Nyquist sampling criteria. Methods Quantitative RT-PCR Cell culture Striae Distensae Human Dermal Fibroblasts (SD-HDF) were isolated from an albae striae lesion, while normal-HDF were isolated from the adjacent non-lesioned skin from the same donor undergoing 312 Full thickness reconstructed skin model Human Full Thickness (FT) reconstructed skin was performed as previously described [12] with the HDF from an albae striae lesion or from the adjacent healthy skin described above. A dermal equivalent was reconstructed by mixing the HDF with a collagen mixture and placed in culture plates. The dermal equivalents were allowed to contract to 0.7 cm during 4 days. Then, Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) isolated from neonatal skin by trypsin digestion were seeded on top of the dermal equivalent and the models were thereafter lifted onto filter paper to the air-liquid interface (ALI). Ten days are necessary for complete differentiation of the epidermis. After 14 days, the equivalents were used for histological analysis. In short, samples were fixed with formalin 10%, washed extensively with PBS and then immersed in ethanol 70% for paraffin embedding, microtomy and standard H&E staining, or samples were immersed in sucrose 30% for subsequent shock freezing in optimal cutting temperature compound (OCT) (4583, Tissue-Tek; Sakura Finetek, Torrance, CA, USA), cryotomy and staining for fluorescent confocal microscopy analysis. Confocal microscopy & immunocytochemistry Cells and FT reconstituted skin models were grown as described above and RNA was extracted with the TRIzolâ Plus RNA Purification Kit (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Boston, MA, USA) according to manufacturer’s instructions, including a DNase I treatment step. RNA quality and quantity were inspected by spectrophotometric © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 311–319 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks measurement using a BioDrop Cuvette and a spectrophotometer (Spectramax M2, Molecular Devices, Sunnyvale, CA, USA). Reverse transcription of RNA was performed using the iScript cDNA Synthesis Kit (BioRad, Hercules, CA, USA) and relative quantification of gene expression was performed using the real-time RTPCR CFX Connect Thermal Cycler (BioRad, Hercules, CA, USA) and SYBR Green (SsoAdvanced Universal SYBR Green, BioRad, Hercules, CA, USA), according to manufacturer’s protocol. Expression data were normalized to the arithmetic mean of the housekeeping genes ACTIN and GAPDH to control the variability in expression levels and were analysed using the 2DDCT method described by Livak and Schmittgen [13]. Primers were selected from the PrimerBank database [14], and its specificity was double-checked with the online software MFEprimer2.0 [15]. The sequences for every primer are listed in Table I. ELISA measurements Cell cultures were starved for 24 h and levels of collagen type I, MMP1 and TGF-b1 in the supernatants were measured with the corresponding DuoSet ELISA kits purchased from R&D Systems (Minneapolis, MN, USA) following manufacturer’s instructions. Statistical analysis Statistical differences were determined using Student’s t-test carried out using GraphPad software (v 6.00, GraphPad Software, Inc.) on a PC. The alpha nominal level was set at 0.05 in all cases. A P value of <0.05 was considered significant. Results Gene expression analysis of HDF isolated from a SD lesion (SDHDF) revealed that most of the ECM components were downregulated when compared to normal-HDF (Fig. 1a). We found a 49% and 52% decrease for Col1 and Col3, respectively, while biglycan (BGN) and lumican (LUM), which are both needed for a proper assembly of collagen fibrils [16,17], were reduced by 42% and 36% respectively. Also, essential for the cross-linking of collagen and elastin is Lysyl Oxidase (LOX) [18], which we found diminished in SD-HDF by 41%. Different reports show that, together with Col1 and Col3, fibronectin-1 downregulation is a hallmark of SD lesions [3,6], which is in agreement with our detection of a 37% decrease of fibronectin (FN1) in SD-HDF. In the same line, and although we found no marked differences on MMP1 expression, we found a strong increase in MMP3 (286% of control), a secretory endopeptidase known to degrade extracellular matrices [19], which is coherent with a decreased expression of natural inhibitors of MMPs: TIMP1 and TIMP2, and PAI-1 (26%, 38% and 35% respectively). Similarly, VEGFA, which is known to stimulate collagen deposition by HDF [20], was decreased in SD-HDF by 50%. On the other hand, we found increased inflammatory mediators such as CXCL8 (190%), TNF-a (417%) and HAS1 (458%) on SD-HDF. This is not surprising since, unlike HAS2 and HAS3, HAS1 is fundamentally involved in the inflammatory processes [21]. As expected from previous reports comparing cell cultures of HDF from rubrae and albae lesions [5], we detected a 42% decrease in a-SMA (ACTA2) expression in SD-HDF, which were isolated from a striae albae lesion. To follow, we confirmed at the protein level that SD-HDF significantly express lower levels of collagen (Fig. 1b) and that MMP1 shows no significant differences between SD- and normal-HDF. In agreement, M. Perez-Aso et al. TGF-b1 secretion, a potent inducer of collagen synthesis by HDF [22], was 83% lower in SD-HDF than in normal-HDF. Human Dermal Fibroblasts have been suggested to be the cell type responsible for the pathological features of stretch marks [9]. In this regard, previous reports with HDF, but not with keratinocytes, embedded in collagen lattices, indicate that SD fibroblast elicit different mechanical properties [5]. In the same line, studies with skin biopsies suggest that HDF from SD lesions have a limited synthetic capacity leading to alterations of the connective tissue [3,6,7]. However, to our knowledge, a direct analysis of the role of keratinocytes and HDF in the SD pathology by co-culturing both in a reconstructed skin model has not been conducted to date. Therefore, in order to directly test whether HDF play a prominent role in the SD pathology, we reconstructed two different FT 3D skin models, the dermis of which was populated with either normal-HDF or SD-HDF (normal and Striae Reconstructed respectively), while the epidermis of both models was reconstructed from the same culture of NHEK. As expected, the H&E histology shows that the structure of the normal-reconstructed skin resembles that of the in vivo skin (Fig. 2a). Interestingly, the epidermis in the Striae Reconstructed was dramatically thinner. Confocal images (Fig. 2b) revealed that the epidermis (above the dashed line) of the Striae Reconstructed model is much less populated by keratinocytes than that of the normal-HDF reconstructed skin model, as the Hoechst staining of nuclei shows. Fig. 2b also reveals a marked increase of integrin-b1 at the epidermal-dermal junction. When analysing the gene expression of the Striae Reconstructed (Fig. 3), we found several genes to be similarly regulated to those in 2D cell cultures, but interesting differences were also detected, such as that only in the Striae Reconstructed MMP7 and MMP9 were increased and that not HAS1, but the inflammatory cytokine IL6 was found increased in the Striae Reconstructed. Interestingly, the Striae Reconstructed, when compared to the skin model reconstructed with normal-HDF, showed elevation of skin ageing markers such as p16 [23], PTGS2 [24] and SOD2 [25]. Discussion Although SD are only harmful in extreme cases [26], they are disfiguring skin lesions which can cause serious psychological concerns [27] and even mild lesions can cause distress to the bearer [26]. However, despite the considerable investigations into their origins, the pathology of SD remains unknown and much research is needed. Regarding available models of SD, only a few studies use actual fibroblasts from SD lesions for in vitro cultures, the majority of studies regarding SD are clinical studies with volunteers [1] and there is no animal model that reliably recapitulates the SD condition [28]. To date, the most common in vitro models of SD are collagen lattices embedded with SD-HDF [5], simple but wellestablished connective models that mimic 3D properties of the ECM [29]. Therefore, the aim of the present work was to develop a new SD skin model that includes not only the dermis, but also the epidermis. With HDF isolated from an albae skin SD lesion and keratinocytes from healthy volunteers, we reconstructed a FT skin model that closely recapitulates the SD lesion, thus opening new avenues for the fundamental research on the pathology behind stretch marks. First, we analysed the differences on the ECM and inflammatory mediators in cell cultures of SD-HDF and normal-HDF. As shown in Figs 1a, 2d, cell cultures of SD-HDF show the main hallmarks of the SD lesion: decreased expression of collagen (COL1 and COL3) © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 311–319 313 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks M. Perez-Aso et al. Table I Primer sequences used for the gene expression assays. Gene name Description Primer Sequences (50 -> 30 ) GAPDH glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase ACTB actin beta ACTA2 actin, alpha 2, smooth muscle BGN Biglycan CDKN2A (P16) cyclin dependent kinase inhibitor 2A COL1 collagen type I alpha 2 chain COL3 collagen type III alpha 1 chain CXCL8 C-X-C motif chemokine ligand 8 DCN decorin DPT dermatopontin ELN elastin FAK Focal Adhesion Kinase FBLN4 fibulin 4 FBN1 fibrilin 1 FGF2 fibroblast growth factor 2 FN1 fibronectin 1 HAS1 hyaluronan synthase 1 HMOX1 heme oxygenase 1 HSPG2 heparan sulfate proteoglycan 2, Perlecan IL10 interleukin 10 IL6 interleukin 6 ITGA4 integrin subunit alpha 4 LOX lysyl oxidase LUM lumican MMP1 matrix metallopeptidase 1 MMP12 matrix metallopeptidase 12 MMP2 matrix metallopeptidase 2 MMP3 matrix metallopeptidase 3 MMP7 matrix metallopeptidase 7 MMP9 matrix metallopeptidase 9 P4HA1 prolyl 4-hydroxylase subunit alpha 1 PAI-1 serpin family E member 1 Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse 314 GGAGCGAGATCCCTCCAAAAT GGCTGTTGTCATACTTCTCATGG CATGTACGTTGCTATCCAGGC CTCCTTAATGTCACGCACGAT AAAAGACAGCTACGTGGGTGA GCCATGTTCTATCGGGTACTTC GAGACCCTGAATGAACTCCACC CTCCCGTTCTCGATCATCCTG GGGTTTTCGTGGTTCACATCC CTAGACGCTGGCTCCTCAGTA GAGGGCCAAGACGAAGACATC CAGATCACGTCATCGCACAAC GGAGCTGGCTACTTCTCGC GGGAACATCCTCCTTCAACAG TTTTGCCAAGGAGTGCTAAAGA AACCCTCTGCACCCAGTTTTC ATGAAGGCCACTATCATCCTCC GTCGCGGTCATCAGGAACTT GGGGCCAGTATGGCGATTATG CGGTTCAAATTCACCCACCC GCAGGAGTTAAGCCCAAGG TGTAGGGCAGTCCATAGCCA GCTTACCTTGACCCCAACTTG ACGTTCCATACCAGTACCCAG AAGAGCCCGACAGCTACAC AGGGATGGTCAGACACTCGTT TTTAGCGTCCTACACGAGCC CCATCCAGGGCAACAGTAAGC AGAAGAGCGACCCTCACATCA CGGTTAGCACACACTCCTTTG CGGTGGCTGTCAGTCAAAG AAACCTCGGCTTCCTCCATAA GAGCCTCTTCGCGTACCTG CCTCCTGGTAGGCGGAGAT AAGACTGCGTTCCTGCTCAAC AAAGCCCTACAGCAACTGTCG CCAAATGCGCTGGACACATTC CGGACACCTCTCGGAACTCT GACTTTAAGGGTTACCTGGGTTG TCACATGCGCCTTGATGTCTG ACTCACCTCTTCAGAACGAATTG CCATCTTTGGAAGGTTCAGGTTG CACAACACGCTGTTCGGCTA CGATCCTGCATCTGTAAATCGC CGGCGGAGGAAAACTGTCT TCGGCTGGGTAAGAAATCTGA TAACTGCCCTGAAAGCTACCC GGAGGCACCATTGGTACACTT AAAATTACACGCCAGATTTGCC GGTGTGACATTACTCCAGAGTTG CATGAACCGTGAGGATGTTGA GCATGGGCTAGGATTCCACC TACAGGATCATTGGCTACACACC GGTCACATCGCTCCAGACT AGTCTTCCAATCCTACTGTTGCT TCCCCGTCACCTCCAATCC GAGTGAGCTACAGTGGGAACA CTATGACGCGGGAGTTTAACAT TGTACCGCTATGGTTACACTCG GGCAGGGACAGTTGCTTCT AGTACAGCGACAAAAGATCCAG CTCCAACTCACTCCACTCAGTA ACCGCAACGTGGTTTTCTCA TTGAATCCCATAGCTGCTTGAAT © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 311–319 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks M. Perez-Aso et al. Table 1 (continued) Gene name Description Primer Sequences (50 -> 30 ) PDGFA platelet derived growth factor subunit A PTGS2 prostaglandin-endoperoxide synthase 2 PXN paxillin SOD2 superoxide dismutase 2 TIMP1 TIMP metallopeptidase inhibitor 1 TIMP2 TIMP metallopeptidase inhibitor 2 TNFA tumor necrosis factor VCAN versican VEGFA vascular endothelial growth factor A Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse Forward Reverse GCAAGACCAGGACGGTCATTT GGCACTTGACACTGCTCGT CTGGCGCTCAGCCATACAG CGCACTTATACTGGTCAAATCCC CTGCTGGAACTGAACGCTGTA GGGGCTGTTAGTCTCTGGGA GCTCCGGTTTTGGGGTATCTG GCGTTGATGTGAGGTTCCAG CTTCTGCAATTCCGACCTCGT ACGCTGGTATAAGGTGGTCTG AAGCGGTCAGTGAGAAGGAAG GGGGCCGTGTAGATAAACTCTAT CCTCTCTCTAATCAGCCCTCTG GAGGACCTGGGAGTAGATGAG GTAACCCATGCGCTACATAAAGT GGCAAAGTAGGCATCGTTGAAA AGGGCAGAATCATCACGAAGT AGGGTCTCGATTGGATGGCA (a) (b) Figure 1 Gene Expression Profile and protein secretion differences between Striae and normal-Dermal Fibroblasts. HDF were isolated from a striae albae skin lesion (Striae-HDF) and from the adjacent non-lesioned skin (normal-HDF) and (a) Gene expression was analysed as described under the section ‘methods’. (b) Collagen type I, MMP1 and TGF-b1 protein levels on the supernatants from normal-HDF and from Striae-HDF were quantified by ELISA. Data represent means SEM. of three to six independent experiments. Statistical analysis was performed by the Student’s t-test where **P < 0.01 vs. normal-HDF. © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 311–319 315 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks M. Perez-Aso et al. (a) (b) Figure 2 Full Thickness Skin model reconstructed with striae-HDF (Striae Reconstructed) elicits epidermal atrophy and increased integrin-b1 expression in the epidermal-dermal junction. Full thickness skin models were reconstructed in parallel with either HDF isolated from a striae lesion (Striae Reconstructed) or with HDF isolated from healthy skin adjacent to the same lesion (Normal Reconstructed). The same batch of NHEK was used to reconstruct the epidermis of both models. (a) Regular H&E stain was performed on paraffin-embedded sections. Different magnifications are shown (59, 109, 209, 409). (b) Immunofluorescence was performed to visualize Integrin-b1 (red), nuclei with Hoechst stain (blue) and the cell membrane with Cell Mask (green). Scale bar = 10 µm. and fibronectin (FN1). That collagen levels are significantly reduced in the SD-HDF were corroborated at the protein level (Fig. 1b). Moreover, and in agreement with decreased synthesis of major ECM components, we detected a striking increase in MMP3 mRNA levels, which has been specifically shown to degrade collagen, 316 fibronectin and elastin [30], together with a decrease in all three MMPs inhibitors: TIMP1, TIMP2 and PAI-1. Conversely, we found that MMP1 mRNA was slightly reduced and unaltered at the protein level, and that MMP2 mRNA was reduced. However, when compared to the MMP3 increase, these changes were small. In this © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 311–319 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks M. Perez-Aso et al. Figure 3 Gene Expression Profile differences between Striae Reconstructed and FT skin model reconstructed with normal-HDF. RNA from whole lysates from both FT skin models was isolated and gene expression was analysed as described under the section ‘methods’. regard, it has been previously discussed that the different MMPs considerable overlap when cleaving ECM substrates [31], a biochemical redundancy to safeguard any losses of regulatory control [32]. Our findings suggest, therefore, a compensation for the dramatic MMP3 increase, a mechanism which often confounds efforts to fully understand MMPs functions [32]. Taken together, these findings suggest that MMP3 plays a predominant role in regulating ECM degradation in the striae. Further evidence that SD-HDF produce a deteriorated ECM is provided by findings on the enzymes needed for the maturation of collagen fibrils. In this line, we detected that LOX, which is essential for the cross-linking of collagen and elastin [18] and for connective tissue formation [33], that biglycan (BGN), needed for a proper assembly of collagen fibrils in the dermis [16] and that lumican (LUM), which regulates fibril collagen assembly to increase skin tensile strength [17], were all three found decreased in SDHDF. Moreover, as expected from the deterioration of the ECM, we found significant lower protein TGF-b1 levels, a well-established inducer of collagen deposition by fibroblasts [34]. Despite that more studies on the role of VEGFA in SD are lacking it is known that, while promoting angiogenesis, VEGFA also indirectly generates significant amounts of TGF-b1 and Connective Tissue Growth Factor (CTGF) from HDF to stimulate collagen deposition [20]. Since SD are also atrophic scars by their nature [35], our finding that VEGFA is decreased in SD-HDF is in agreement with decreased Col1, Col3, TGF-b1 and increased MMP3, providing further evidence that SD-HDF promote the formation of a deteriorated ECM. Because seminal works on the SD pathology highlighted that the hallmarks of the SD lesion are decreased Col1, Col3 and fibronectin among others [3,6], our findings show a correlation with SD-HDF cultures and the lesion in vivo. Two phases for the development of SD are well-defined: an early inflammatory lesion (striae rubrae) followed by an atrophic dermal scar (striae albae). From a bio-mechanical perspective, ex vivo fibroblasts from patients with early striae rubrae exhibit high levels of alpha-smooth muscle actin (a-SMA) and generate higher contractile forces in comparison with fibroblasts from later stage striae [5]. Collagen lattices embedded with SD-HDF also revealed that SD from early lesions contract with stronger force, but late lesions, that is albae, show similar contraction forces to normal-HDF [5]. In our hands, SD-HDF from striae albae express less a-SMA contractile actin (Fig. 1a; ACTA2) and they also secrete fewer amounts of TGF-b1 (Fig. 1b), which is well known to induce fibroblasts not only to secrete collagen, but also to contract the ECM following expression of a-SMA [36,37]. Together, these findings support the notion that our model closely recapitulates the striae albae skin lesions. We also found that SD-HDF were not completely dormant, since they also showed increased expression of inflammatory mediators such as CXCL8, TNFA and HAS1. It is well known that 3D reconstructed dermal equivalents recapitulate better than 2D cell cultures the normal physiology of the skin [38]. Because the interaction of cells with the surrounding ECM is essential in many physiological and pathological processes [29], and because they also allow the study of the signalling between epidermis and stromal cells, which is crucial for growth and differentiation [39], we used the SD- and normalHDF cell cultures described above to reconstruct two different FT 3D dermal equivalents, the epidermis of which was formed by NHEK in both the SD- and the normal-HDF reconstructed models. Although, parallel expression patterns were found for some ECM proteins and cytokines between the 2D and 3D models (Fig. 3), striking differences were also detected, such as finding MMP7 and MMP9 increased in the Striae Reconstructed, or that the main augmented inflammatory mediator was IL6 instead of HAS1. Probably, the major difference found in the gene expression analysis is that in the 3D model, but not in 2D cultures, SD-HDF show clear traits of skin ageing, such as increased expression of p16 [23], PTGS2 [24] and SOD2 [25]. Therefore, these findings highlight the importance that the presence of keratinocytes and a 3D environment has on the behaviour of SD-HDF. In fact, in agreement with our findings, it has been recently found that co-cultures of keratinocytes and fibroblasts from aged donors in collagen dermal substrates are a very useful alternative to in vivo studies [40] and that epithelial-dermal interactions play an important role in the skin ageing process, so that a 3D model would be needed for its proper study. © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 311–319 317 Striae reconstructed, a model for stretch marks M. Perez-Aso et al. Although for both models, normal- and Striae Reconstructed, the epidermis was formed with NHEK, and in agreement with previous reports showing that keratinocyte differentiation is affected by fibroblasts [41], we found epidermal atrophy only in the Striae Reconstructed (Fig. 2a), which is typical of SD lesions [2], as well as a dramatic increase of basal membrane integrin-b1 (Fig. 2b). The latter is likely because of the activation of a keratinocyte response to maintain the epidermal-dermal junction by augmenting key adhesion receptors, a response also found in situations of stress where keratinocytes acquire stronger adhesion properties, as in wound healing [42]. In agreement with our findings, recently Pageon and colleagues developed a FT 3D skin model of ageing [43] by inducing the formation of Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs) in the dermal compartment, a hallmark of skin ageing which, in turn, caused a significant increase of integrin-b1 expression in the epidermis. Both observations, epidermal thinning and increased integrin-b1 expression in the basal membrane, may be closely related since integrins are not only the major receptors for keratinocyte adhesion to the basement, but they also play a global role in epidermal migration [42], which is in agreement with the observation of a reduced number of cells in the topmost area of the epidermis (Hoechst staining on Fig. 2b). Taken together, these findings suggest that SD-HDF induce a stronger adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermal-epidermal junction which, in turn, prevents keratinocytes from migrating to upper layers of the epidermis. Moreover, integrins can regulate the paracrine cross-talk between HDF in the dermis and keratinocytes in the epidermis and, interestingly, two growth factors that we found diminished in the Striae Reconstructed have been recently functionally linked to integrins in the epidermis: VEGF and TGF-b1 [42]. That a fundamental aberration of fibroblast metabolism in SD exists has been previously noted [3,8,9] but, by co-culturing both cell types in a 3D FT skin model the present work provides, for the first time to our knowledge, a direct rationale showing that the key player in the pathogenesis of the striae are dermal fibroblasts rather than the epidermal keratinocytes. In summary, in the present work, we characterized the dermal fibroblasts isolated from striae albae and found that, ex vivo, they recapitulate the main features found in SD skin lesions: decreased accumulation of collagen and fibronectin, among other extracellular matrix, growth factors and inflammatory components. Moreover, we developed a FT skin model reconstructed with normal keratinocytes and fibroblasts from SD lesions (Striae Reconstructed) providing, to our knowledge, the first direct rationale showing that dermal fibroblasts, and not epidermal keratinocytes, are the key cell type behind the pathology of stretch marks. Moreover, the Striae Reconstructed, but not the cell cultures of SD fibroblasts, showed skin ageing traits, indicating that the reconstructed skin model better recapitulates the in vivo condition. Because more studies are needed to better understand the pathology of SD, our new in vitro model opens new avenues for the fundamental research of stretch marks, and serves as a new platform for drug efficacy tests. 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