CHAPTER 5: SKIN ANALYSIS A. UNDERSTANDING SKIN ANALYSIS Skin type + conditions must be analyzed correctly to determine? _________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ is especially important to determine the causes of skin conditions and any contraindications to treatments or products the client may have. B. IDENTIFY THE 4 GENETIC SKIN TYPES THROUGH? _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Skin type is a classification that ________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________ And is determined by ____________________________________________________________________________________________. A. T-Zone is the ________________________________________________________________________________________________. B. All skin types need proper ________________________________________________________________________________________________. C. Skin Types i. Normal – 1. Oil & Water is Balanced 2. Needs to follow the 4 steps to skin health: ________________________________________________________________________________. 3. Can become drier with age ii. Dry 1. Lacks __________________________________________________________________________. 2. Feel: __________________________________________________________________________. iii. Combination 1. T-Zone is oily 2. Can be both Oily & Dry 3. Avoid harsh products + _______________________________________________________. iv. Oily 1. Moderate to Very Oily 2. Needs Proper Cleansing + Exfoliation with _________________________________________________________________________________. 3. Overexfoliation can create ___________________________________________________. C. FITZPATRICK SCALE Developed by ______________________________________________________. The Fitzpatrick Scale is used to ___________________________________________________________________________________________. A. Fitzpatrick 1 – i. Eyes: _________________________________________________________. ii. Hair: Blonde, Red iii. Unexposed skin: Very white, almost ______________________________, freckles. iv. Heritage: ________________________________________________________________________________. v. UV Skin Reaction: Always burns, peels with burn, does not ________________________. B. Fitzpatrick 2 i. Eyes: Blue, Hazel, Brown ii. Hair: Red, Brown, Blonde iii. Unexposed skin: ________________________________________ iv. Heritage: Same as Fitz 1 and ______________________________________________. v. UV Skin Reaction: Burns easily, usually peels, tans minimally. C. Fitzpatrick 3 2 i. Eyes: Brown ii. Hair: Dark iii. Unexposed skin: ______________________________ to olive. iv. Heritage: Spanish, Greek, Italian v. UV Skin Reaction: ____________________________________________________________________________________________. D. Fitzpatrick 4 i. Eyes: Dark ii. Hair: _______________________________ iii. Unexposed skin: Light Brown iv. Heritage: ________________________________________________________________________________. v. UV Skin Reaction: ____________________________________________________________________________________________. E. Fitzpatrick 5 i. Eyes: Dark ii. Hair: Dark iii. Unexposed skin: Dark Brown iv. Heritage: ____________________________________________________________________________________________. v. UV Skin Reaction: ____________________________________________________________________________________________. F. Fitzpatrick 6 i. Eyes: ______________________________ ii. Hair: _______________________________ iii. Unexposed skin: Dark Brown iv. Heritage: African American, ______________________________________________. v. UV Skin Reaction: Rarely/never burns, tans easily. D. Sensitive Skin 3 Sensitive Skin is a condition but can also be ____________________________________________________________________________________________. Characterized by ____________________________________________________________________________________________. Easily irritated by products or by ____________________________________________________________________________________________. Telangiestasia ___________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ may be noticeable on sensitive skin. Fragile or thin skin can be a result of ________________________________________________. Sensitive or Sensitized skin can be difficult to treat because of its ___________________________________________________________________________________________. Treatment goal for sensitive skin is to _______________________________________________. E. TREATING SKIN OF COLOR All fitzpatrick skin stypes have the same number of melanocytes. Higher Fitzpatrick have melanocytes that produce more melanin. FITZ TYPE 4 Most _____________________________________________________________ skin type to treat. Great _____________________________________________________________________________________; does not show aging signs as quickly as Fits 1 and 2. Can become ____________________________________________________________ from treatments or aggressive exfoliation agents. Fitz 3 and 4 typically have thicker skin that is characterized by ______________________________________________________________________________________________. Waxing can be difficult for __________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________ thicker hair and thicker roots in the follicle. FITZ TYPE 5 & 6 Generally, have _________________________________________________________ but can have the same level of reactivity as lower Fitz types. Are prone to a form of _____________________________________________________________________. May have abnormal _______________________________________________________ scarring. Sun protection still necessary for these skin types. F. NECK AND DECOLLETE 4 The skin on the ___________________________________________ is not the same as the skin on the face. The neck and décolleté have fewer _______________________________________________________. Wrinkles aka ________________________________. ______________________________________________ is a new phenomenon caused by repeated movement of looking down at a cell phone or other electronic device has created a demand for specialty topical treatments that include ________________________________________________________________________________________________. G. SKIN CONDITIONS Acne _______________________________ from hormonal changes or other factors. Actinic Keratosis Rough area resulting from _______________________________________, sometimes with a layered scale or scab that sometimes falls off. Aging Characterized by skin laxity due to ______________________________________ __________________________, thinner skin, dryness, photo damage, and fine lines or wrinkles. Asphyxiated From lack of __________________________. common with smokers. Characterized by clogged pores and wrinkles; dull and lifeless looking. ______________________________ Blackheads _________________________comedones Caused by a buildup of debris, oil, and skin cells in the follicles. Whiteheads _________________________comedones Not open to the air or oxygen, they are trapped by dead skin cells and need to be exfoliated and extracted. 5 Dehydrated Lack of ______________________________ Caused by the environment, medications, topical agents, aging, or dehydrated drinks such as caffeine and alcohol. Erythema Redness caused by ____________________________________ _____________________________ Excess body hair located in regions where hair is not normally present. Hyperpigmentation _______________________________________ of melanin due to: UV Exposure Hormonally induced Post Inflammatory Pigmentation Hypopigmentation Lack of __________________________________ due to UV induced, Posttraumatic, Vitiligo, and Albinism. Milia _________________________________________ ______________________________ of oil and dead skin cells trapped beneath the surface of the skin. They must be removed with a lancet. (lancing) 6 Papules Raised lesions; also called _________________________________. ____________________ An infected papule with fluid inside. Seborrhea AKA __________________________________________ Excess oil production that causes redness, irritation, and ______________________. Telangiestasia _____________________________________ or distended capillaries less than 0.5mm due to intrinsic or _______________________________________. H. CAUSES OF SKIN CONDITIONS The esthetician must evaluate multiple causes, both ______________________________________________, to correct or improve a skin condition. Each client is _____________________, and the skin of various clients may respond differently to the exact same treatment. External factors or __________________ factors include lack of exercise, lack of sleep, _________________________________________________________________. External Effects: UX Exposure Tanning beds ___________________________________________________________________________________ Environment, Climate, & Humidity Poor _____________________________________________________________________________ Misuse of products or treatments, ____________________________________________ Allergies and reactions to environmental factors or products __________________________________________ to the sun from medications or products. Internal Effects: 7 Genetics and _________________________________________________________________________________ Free radicals Dehydration _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hormones Medical conditions, such as _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Puberty Aging _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Pregnancy Menopause I. TOP 10 HEALTHY SKIN HABITS J. DETERMINE TREATMENT CONTRAINDICATIONS THROUGH EVALUATION, ANALYSIS, AND CONSULTATION Certain treatments and skin care products may be _____________________________ for a particular client, and it is your responsibility to evaluate the __________________________________________________________________________________ after your skin analysis and review of the client’s medical history. Contraindications are ________________________________________________________________________________________________. Contraindications for Skin Treatments - Use of _______________________________________. The client must have completed _________________________________________________________________________________ months prior. - Skin-thinning or exfoliating topical medication, including _________________________________________________________________________________________________. Avoid waxing, exfoliation, and ______________________________________________________________. - Autoimmune diseases such as __________________________________________________- avoid any harsh or stimulating treatments or skin care products. 8