2 AO India
| December 2023
December 2023 | AO India
3
CONTENTS
30
COVER STORY
The Uniform Code:
A Sector Poised For Growth
Image courtesy: maharishi’s FW ‘23 campaign
INDUSTRY VERDICT
12 I What Have You Learned From Overseas Brand
And What Are The Areas Where Indian Brands And
Retailers Are Lacking Compared To Them?
RETAIL RIGHT//
//NATIONAL
14 I The Surpassing Surplus Business
p14
Indian stocklot market size of US $ 3 billion or even more
RETAIL RIGHT//
// NATIONAL NEWS
16 I Apparel Retailers Poised To Expand
Their Offerings
RETAIL RIGHT//
//INTERNATIONAL
20 I Gamification Of Fashion: A Combination
That Is Fast Becoming A Hit
RETAIL RIGHT//
// INTERNATIONAL NEWS
24 I Luxury Brands See Increased Sales
p20
Fashion is embracing gaming as a great opportunity
EXPERT SPEAKS
26 I India: The World’s Manufacturing Hub For
Apparel And Textiles Or Has It Missed The
Train Yet Again?
BUYING & SOURCING
36 I Sourcing 2.0: Pioneering The Next
Era Of Apparel
MANUFACTURING//
//NEWS
40 I Trade Organisations Enthusiastic About The
Growth Of Textile And Apparel Industry
4 AO India | December 2023
p36
Focusing on the evolution of procurement through ‘Sourcing as a Service’
(SaaS) using AI and ML
November 2023 | AO India
December 2023 | AO India
5
5
CONTENTS
SUSTAINABILITY
42 I Organisations Helping In Sustainable
Manufacturing
SUSTAINABILITY//
//NEWS
p42
There are many non-governmental organisations which not only talk about
sustainability but also actively help the industry move forward with their
sustainability initiatives and provide services to aid them
46 I Organisations Collaborating With Focus
On Recycling
TRENDS IN FOCUS//
//RUNWAYS
48 I Runway Recap: Unveiling The Accessories, Bags
And Footwear Trends Defining S/S ’24
FASHION BUSINESS
54 I Eco-Pioneers Of Change: Meet The Circular
Design Challenge Champions Redefining Sustainable
Fashion On A Global Scale
DESIGNERS & LABELS
p48
From the revival of nostalgic classics to the introduction of daring
accessories, the runways depict a season marked by versatility and bold
experimentation
62 I From Clusters To Couture: Five Point Five’s
Saree Odyssey Championing India’s Weaves
START-UPS
68 I Decoding India’s Fashion Start-up Landscape
START-UPS//
//NEWS
70 I Groyyo’s B2B Trading Business In Trouble As
Investors Contemplate Closure
TRADE STATISTICS
72 I US Apparel Imports (January-September 2023):
Apparel Imports Fall In September ’23
Over August ’23!
p62
At Five Point Five, every saree tells a story and carries a piece of India’s
rich heritage
p68
In the past decade, the Indian fashion industry witnessed a profound shift
propelled by the rise of start-ups
6 AO India | December 2023
The smart choice for
decorators worldwide.
Gildan® 76000
Premium Cotton®
Unisex T-Shirt
100% Soft Ring
Spun Cotton | 185 g/m2
NOW
AVAILABLE IN
INDIA
Discover the
76000 now
Recognitions, certifications & partnerships
Visit us at www.gildanindia.com
December 2023 | AO India
7
APPAREL
ONLINE
Editor-In-Chief
DEEPAK MOHINDRA
Editorial
Editor
ILA SAXENA
Copy Editor
PRIYANKA MISHRA
Asst. Editor - News
DHEERAJ TAGRA
Asst. Editor - Fashion
ANJORI GROVER VASESI
Asst. Editor - Technical
NITISH VARSHNEY
Creative
RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL
PIYUSH JAUHARI
Management
Director
MAYANK MOHINDRA
Corporate Office
B-32, South Extension-1,
New Delhi-110 049 (India)
Phone: 91-11-47390000
Owner
RENU MOHINDRA
Printer
ASK ADVERTISING AIDS PVT. LTD.
Publisher & Managing Director
RENU MOHINDRA & DEEPAK MOHINDRA
Published from
DELHI
Date of Publication
26th NOVEMBER 2023
Printed at
ASK ADVERTISING AIDS PVT. LTD.
88, DSIDC, Okhla Indl. Area, Phase-I, New Delhi-110 020
Phone : 26816824, E-mail: creativegrafix1@gmail.com
Subscription
AO India
INR 2400.00
12 Issues
Other Editions
AO Bangladesh
INR 2400.00
12 Issues
*This rate is valid only for subscription in India
Subscription enquiry
+91 98913 74725, 90509 90602
subscribe@apparelresources.com
Advertising enquiry
+91-9810058986
rmohindra@apparelresources.com
Collaboration enquiry
+91 9810611487
mmohindra@apparelresources.com
APPAREL RESOURCES PVT. LTD.
All Rights Reserved © 2022 by Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd.
No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or by any
information storage retrieval system, without the written permission of the publisher.
EDITIONS
INDIA
BANGLADESH
VIETNAM
8 AO India | December 2023
www.apparelresources.com
December 2023 | AO India
9
December 2023 | AO India
9
EDITOR’S NOTE
FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK…
Indian apparel exports are
stuck in a rut!
The Apparel Export Promotion Council, under the Ministry
of Textiles, has set a target of US $ 40 billion by 2030. No
doubt, India holds significant export potential. However,
being pro-industry, my concern lies in the stagnation of
India’s apparel exports, which has remained around US $ 16
billion since 2014-15. Even in 2022-23, the apparel exports
increased by just 1.1 per cent to US $ 16.20 billion from
US $ 16.02 billion in 2021-22.
Exports reached their peak at US $ 17.4 billion in 2017.
Back then, industry stakeholders were confidently projecting
a rapid growth of apparel exports, predicting a surge to US
$ 42 billion by 2025. However, contrary to this ambitious
target, we have been unable to even surpass the 2017 peak.
In October 2023, India’s apparel exports declined by 8 per
cent compared to October 2022. In the current fiscal year
(April to October), garment exports have decreased by
14.58 per cent.
So, how can India raise its exports by a staggering 150 per
cent to achieve the apparel exports target within the next
seven years? The primary government initiatives such as PLI
and PM MITRA Park aren’t specifically tailored for apparel
exports and even if these schemes are optimally executed,
achieving this target seems improbable. The PLI scheme,
which has seen multiple extensions in terms of application
dates, has only 10 apparel exporters out of 64 approved
applications. Additionally, amongst the 25 companies
associated with apparel exports, their combined turnover is
less than US $ 4 billion. Most of the approved applications
are from different segments and product categories within
the textile supply chain.
Goyal—ambitious targets for apparel exports have been
consistently announced. Amongst these aims stood the
audacious target to reach US $ 100 billion by 2030. But
have we ever met these targets? No. This makes me wonder:
Is there a strong roadmap in place by the Government,
AEPC, or any other body to ensure a substantial increase in
apparel exports?
APEC claims a projected target of US $ 40 billion by
2030, citing initiatives like exploring new markets and
nurturing strategic alliances. However, these initiatives have
undergone a repetitive cut-and-paste cycle across successive
governments for years. Where is the comprehensive,
detailed roadmap that covers every intricate aspect crucial to
achieving this target?
The Government has recently placed its bets on the Bharat
Tex event, claimed as the largest textile show in the world
in terms of exhibition area and which promises to showcase
India’s capabilities as a reliable supplier of textile products
spanning the entire value chain under one roof. But who
is going to execute this initiative? 11 Export Promotion
Councils (EPCs) under the MoT will together organise
this event. The same EPCs, particularly AEPC, so far have
failed to beef up exports.
Similar initiatives have been attempted previously, such as
Tex-Trends India 2012 in Delhi and Textile India 2017
in Gandhinagar, both yielding no significant outcomes.
The question arises: Are our policymakers, government or
stakeholders overlooking this history? Why hasn’t there
been any fresh approach, new leadership or innovative ideas
brought to the table to improve India’s textile and apparel
exports and achieve the target set?
The effectiveness of 7 PM MITRA parks in boosting
apparel exports even remains uncertain as the thrust of these
parks is not just on apparel exports but on the entire supply
chain. If things go according to plan, these parks will be
established by 2026-27.
Throughout the tenure of various ministers —from
Kashiram Rana, Syed Shahnawaz Hussain, Shankersinh
Vaghela, Dayanidhi Maran, Anand Sharma, Kavuri Samba
Siva Rao, Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Smriti Irani to Piyush
10 AO India | December 2023
Deepak Mohindra
Editor-in-Chief
e-mail me at dmohindra@apparelresources.com
Deepak Mohindra
NEXT-GEN
BRANDING TRIMS
THE LEADER IN SERVICE AND QUALITY
India's largest branding trims
manufacturers with short lead time,
best price and excellent service!
Design & Product
Development Support
Dedicated Customer
Service Teams
Latest Trims
Technology And Design
Range Of Product
Options
Woven
Labels
Heat Transfer
Labels
Trimming
Tapes
Printed
Care Labels
Badges
And Patches
LEADER IN SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS
Nimit Mardia (Managing Director): +91 96878 34711
Shreya Mardia (Executive Director and Marketing Head): +91 96878 34711
Siddarth Trivedi (BDM): +91 98792 27372
11
December 2023 | AO India 11
December 2023 | AO India
INDUSTRY VERDICT
Q&A
It is a strong perception that most Indian apparel brands and retailers follow the international retailers at various
levels when it comes to strategies for pricing, marketing, visual merchandising, use of technology, store experience etc.
As a brand or retailer, how do you see this?
What has influenced you the most in international brand and retail scenario? What you have learned from it?
Many international brands and retailers have established strong foothold and command good scale of operations.
What are the areas, according to you, where Indian brands and retailers are lacking?
future, they will grow exponentially
and would have more space in western
world. It may take time but will happen
for sure.
extensively uses RFID technology in
all its processes including retail.
On similar lines, we are also trying to
learn from Jockey (Page Industries)
right from the way it deals in its
manufacturing processes to its
strong brand presence in most of the
Indian villages.
Hemant Jain
Director, KKCL
India is one of the fastest growing
markets across the globe, however,
still most of the Indian brands have
not been able to make it that big
compared to western brands when it
comes to quality, designs, growth etc.
One must understand that brand
building takes time and most of
the international brands which are
successful and doing well in global and
Indian markets, are very old as they
have been into the market for five to
six decades or even more. All these
require a lot of investment, so we have
to invest in our brands.
But seeing the high aspirations
of Indian brands to excel through
innovation, diversification, flexibility
and value addition, I am sure that in
12 AO India | December 2023
Sunil JhunJhunWala
Director, Techno Sportswear
We can learn many things from
various international brands,
especially those which are doing well
in India. Uniqlo is one of the biggest
inspirations in this regard as without
investing much in marketing and
having comparatively less number of
products, its performance has been
really good. It offers superior quality
material and comfort to the wearer
and that too at reasonable pricing.
Similarly Decathlon is very strong
in supply chain management and
Ashmeer Sayyed
Chief Retail Officer, DaMENSCH
Perceptions are based on the origin
of brands. If Indian brands have taken
inspiration from western/international
brands, undoubtedly, they would not
reinvent the wheel.
Brands with ‘Made in India’ ethos
adapt strategies like pricing and
marketing to suit Indian consumers.
They may embrace deep discounts
INDUSTRY VERDICT
or maintain a premium image without
discounts. While using international
models has been the norm to convey
a premium image, there’s a growing
trend of adopting locally relevant
technology and innovation. So, the
reality falls somewhere in between,
with Indian brands balancing global
inspiration with domestic insights.
From DaMENSCH’s perspective as
a brand, we prioritise an indigenous
approach to pricing. As a D2C
brand, we closely understand and
align with consumer expectations,
reflecting this understanding in our
pricing strategies. As we expand into
offline retail, we are committed to
maintaining price parity as much as
possible across our multi-channel
approach. This ensures that our
customers can expect consistency
and fairness in pricing, regardless
of where they choose to shop, be it
online or in physical stores.
Our biggest influence from the
international brand and retail
landscape has been the recognition
of the legacy that some of these
brands have built over time. Many
of these brands have established
themselves as market leaders,
often benefiting from factors like
intellectual property protection and
formidable entry barriers.
In the current Indian retail scenario,
the post-pandemic era has presented
exciting opportunities, especially
with the rise of D2C models.
This environment has allowed
emerging brands like DaMENSCH
to identify and capitalise on niche
opportunities. We are open to
challenge the existing norms and
are committed to disrupting the
status quo. Our journey reflects the
dynamic nature of the Indian retail
market, where innovative approaches
can thrive and create new legacies.
The number of years that international
brands have been able to enjoy
the space, has helped them grow
(slower or faster) in absence of newer
entrants. Indian brands are currently
focusing on enhancing their R&D
efforts and improving the consumer
experience. To do so, there’s a need
to give priority to expanding their
access to research or investing in this
domain. In contrast, IT companies
have successfully accomplished
this over the past 25 years, while
consumer brands continue to heavily
draw inspiration from established
international brands.
Boosting the consumer experience
is crucial, especially within the
Indian market, where consumers are
regarded as royalty and rightly so.
Furthermore, given the vast consumer
base served by Indian retailers, the
importance of this endeavour gets
augmented all the more.
On the other hand, there are
several Indian brands that are clear
about their brand voice and design
handwriting. While some of them are
in the designer and luxury segment
such as Sabyasachi, others are more
in mainstream (such as Tata Group’s
brands). More such Indian brands
need to be confident in presenting
themselves in a unique way, rather
than copy pasting looks and practices
from European and American brands.
As far as organisational processes,
technology and customer interface
are concerned, Indian companies
tend to lag behind their western
counterparts. The international
brands are built on well-defined
systems and promise greater
reliability, which are significant
enablers in scaling up quicker.
Most of the Indian brands are still
relatively young in their lifecycle and
the abundant ‘lower cost’ people
in India often make technology an
afterthought. This is something that
has to change.
NEXT INDUSTRY
VERDICT QUESTIONS
Devangshu Dutta
Chief Executive, Third Eyesight
A large segment of Indian consumers
have been seeing international
brands as aspirational and
trendsetting for decades. This has
led to a situation where most Indian
brands have become followers, in
terms of styling, product design,
visual merchandising and customer
experience. In some cases such as
advertising, Indian brands (especially
for westernwear) are using foreign
models as a conscious choice to
capitalise on the conscious or
subconscious bias in the consumer’s
mind that an ‘international look’ is
more premium or desirable.
Festivals and weddings, the biggest
shopping seasons, are the most
awaited for by the Indian apparel
retail industry. How was this recent
season for you, and looking forward,
how do you see the upcoming fourth
quarter which has weddings and
few of the festivals on cards?
Have you observed something
interesting, different or new in
the recently concluded season?
Based on your observations,
what strategies do you plan to
incorporate for the future?
SEND YOUR COMMENTS
contact@apparelresources.com
December 2023 | AO India
13
RETAIL RIGHT//NATIONAL
THE SURPASSING SURPLUS BUSINESS
Garment surplus comes from three
major segments: first, the extra garments
manufactured (for exports as well as
domestic) to cover up for quality issue;
secondly, garments or shipments rejected
by the buyers due to quality, timely
delivery or any other issues; and third,
leftover (unsold) garments of various
retailers, brands etc. Rather than sending
these remaining garments to landfill, they
are picked by the specified firm dealing in
surplus garments. It is also being observed
that in the name of surplus, few of the
manufacturers sell fresh garments similar
to styles already selling as hot items in
market. From top brands to high-quality
unbranded garments, innerwear to
blazers and fashion accessories, nearly all
products come under this surplus range.
Value for money, good quality products
and aspirations of brands are a few of
the main reasons ensuring the growth of
this market segment, which according
to industry survey conducted by Apparel
Online and views shared by various
stakeholders, may have a market size of
US $ 3 billion or even more.
Huge market size
India’s apparel export is around
US $ 16 billion, and taking a conservative
approach, even if 10 per cent of this goes
as the stock lot, the figure stands at
US $ 1.6 billion. These sell at a 20 per
14 AO India | December 2023
cent to 30 per cent reduced value from
the prices originally quoted by the buyers
that translates into an approximate market
value of US $ 480 million.
With a similar conservative approach, the
surplus from the domestic manufacturing
market is more than US $ 1,200 million,
considering that the manufacturing
market is worth US $ 40 billion.
Another aspect of surplus items comes
from retail store perspective. Consider
this – a retailer fails to sell a section of
its inventory and is then bound to bring
these products at much cheaper rate to
the surplus market. In general, as reports
and retailers state, this unsold inventory at
retail level is worth US $ 4 billion in India.
These products, when introduced to the
surplus firms/sellers, get value depreciation
of 70 per cent – 80 per cent depending on
the brand value, which makes this leftover
inventory worth around US $ 1,200
million in stock lot market.
One of the senior executives of Reliance
Trends states on the request of anonymity
that whatever remains unsold in Trends
stores, they try to sell it at higher
discounts on various online platforms. If
apparel remains unsold even after a heavy
discount, Jio Mart is the last option to
sell it directly to the consumers. In worst
case, the garment goes back to the stock
lot firm. On an average basis, at least 3 per
cent of apparel go to the surplus firms.
Markets in India and
working of surplus
Nearly all the manufacturing hubs have
surplus firms, be it in Delhi, Tughlakabad,
Seelampur and Laxmi Nagar. These
firms have strong relations with various
manufacturing units and approach them
time to time for surplus. Agents working
with manufacturing firms, brands and
surplus firms are also instrumental to this
business. A similar approach is followed in
most of the hubs.
Priorities to consider while
selecting stock lot
Like in fresh products, in stock lot
too, quality, price and brand value are
important for nearly all Indian wholesalers
and retailers. The lot size also matters to
a great extent as good wholesale firms
prefer big lot orders so that they can have
more variety and maximum sizes. Fashion
trends and brand aspirations are also
highly important as they fetch more value
at every stage.
For many, ‘brand’ matters the most as
consumers have aspirations to wear top
brands and when they purchase a lot
of branded garments, quality is not a
challenge. And in branded garments,
sellers get comparatively good prices too.
If the lot is of good quality, it becomes
the priority of surplus firms, but to ensure
RETAIL RIGHT//NATIONAL
quality, they randomly check around 10
per cent of products of the total lot.
One segment in this category are into
selling apparel with minor defects
which is a concern for top brands or
established retailers but this does not
bother customers as these defects are
rarely visible. Such products get good
value based on the level of defects or
rejection. This is a growing segment
for stock surplus sellers as they get
reasonably good prices from the
customers for such garments.
“Few of the brands are equally preferred
across India and such products are easy
to sell, so branded garments are always
a priority for us,” says Sunil Babber,
Director, A Rose Inc. The Delhi-based
stock lot company takes surplus from
nearly all leading hubs of India and even
keeps the stock for 3-4 months if the
surplus is of good quality and is expected
to sell.
Megha of Delhi-based Western Apparel
Hub, a banker who currently runs a
successful apparel stock lot business says,
“We got a stock lot of 1,000 pieces to
50,000 pieces and prefer to get as big as
the lot, so that we can have more options
and can serve more retailers.”
Offline is a major market,
Online can be good option
Almost all the surplus garments get sold
offline, be it specific showrooms proudly
selling these as ‘Export Surplus’, or
sellers selling at various places randomly
including roadside. Delhi-NCR and
other metro cities have many such
stores whose stock includes a large
range of surplus products of menswear,
womenswear and kidswear.
Though few of the sellers ‘anyhow’ manage
to sell surplus garments online also, but it
is minuscule as reputed online platforms
prefer selling only fresh garments and
they require those in all sizes while
surplus doesn’t guarantee providing all
sizes. However, industry stakeholders
believe that selling such products online
can be a good option but so far, they not
been explored well. This process requires
minimum investment and return is
expected to be more.
Growth avenues
Almost following the system of fresh
market, surplus suppliers are expanding
their business for continuous growth.
Adding new product ranges, new clients
and new factories to get different types
of stock lots are a few major steps being
taken up by them to ensure growth. Many
stock surplus firms now have the entire
range of basic to fashion products which
include even lingerie and underwear.
Nowadays, stock lot suppliers are also
offering accessories like bags and footwear.
Few of the suppliers who work mainly
Across India, there are many stores selling branded export surplus; selling such products online can be a good option
India’s apparel export is
around US $ 16 billion
and taking a conservative
approach, even if 10 per
cent of this goes as the
stock lot, the figure
stands at US $ 1.6 billion.
These sell at a 20 per cent
to 30 per cent reduced
value from the prices
originally quoted by the
buyers that translates into
an approximate market
value of US $ 480 million.
for domestic market, are now eyeing
the export market also so that they can
sell stock lot which are welcomed in the
overseas market.
Legal aspects
Garment surplus business is semiorganised as well as unorganised but when
it comes to selling branded garments in
surplus market, legal aspects have to be
taken into consideration too. Obtaining a
release order from the brands or retailers
is the best way to sell branded garments
through surplus. In case release order is
not there, companies prefer to cut the label
to avoid any further issues.
“We try to get a proper piece of branded
garment which matches the exact with a
surplus. It creates a belief in our clients
that they are getting a real branded
garment but without a label,” tells a
stock lot seller who doesn’t want to
share his name.
Getting approval from the brands for
selling goods in the surplus market is a
long and tedious process. As per market
insiders, a lot of fake branded goods
are available in the market and to avoid
selling their ‘leftover’ garments in such
markets, reputed brands and retailers don’t
leave any stone unturned to clear their
inventories through different channels.
Many brands and top retailers clear their
unsold stuff in their remote area stores and
secondary stores at heavy discounts.
December 2023 | AO India
15
RETAIL RIGHT//NATIONAL NEWS
Apparel retailers poised to expand their
offerings
Apparel retailers are taking
advantage of the growing
opportunities in India to
expand their stores across India
with a focus on Tier-2 and
Tier-3 cities.
Men’s fashion brand Snitch
is set to broaden its footprint
in smaller cities and towns,
with plans to launch seveneight offline stores in locations
such as Surat, Mumbai and
Pune in the current financial
year, according to a statement
from the company’s founder,
Siddharth Dungarwal. Despite
already having a strong presence
in Tier-1 and Tier-2 cities, the
brand aims to delve deeper into
Tier-3 and Tier-4 markets with
its expansion strategy.
“The next set of strategies for
us is to penetrate deeper into
the tiers and geographies,
into the Tier-3 and Tier4 plus in terms of team
building,” said Siddharth.
“Expanding our offline stores
now, we’ll be having at least
seven to eight offline stores
in places like Surat, Mumbai,
Pune and Hyderabad by FY
’24,” he added.
The fashion brand started its
journey as a B2B player in
2019. It expects a revenue of Rs.
250 crore in the current fiscal.
“We did Rs. 11 crore in FY
’21 in terms of net revenue, in
year two we did Rs. 44 crore in
revenue (FY ’22). In our third
year, we closed at Rs. 110 crore
in FY ’23, and this year, we
should close at Rs. 250 crore.”
The company launched its app
about two years ago with over
two million downloads of the
app and 55 per cent of the
16 AO India | December 2023
revenue coming through the
same, Siddharth said. Similarly,
CityKart, one of the leading
value retail chains, is eyeing
an investment of up to Rs.
100 crore across India and
will open up around 25-30
stores by the end of FY ’23-24,
with a significant investment
also contributing to the
employment of around 7001000. Currently, it is operating
95 stores in 73 cities across
8 states. In a press release, the
retailer said that it has attained
remarkable growth and success
in the Indian market. Having
raised Rs. 105 crore to date
for the expansion plan of
attaining 300 stores by 2026,
CityKart is aiming to capture
a significant market share and
become a bustling shopping
hub for residents and
fashion enthusiasts.
Ritesh Rathi, COO, Citykart
said, “We are thrilled to have
experienced such tremendous
growth and success in the
Tier-2 and Tier-3 market.
The overwhelming response
and acceptance that we have
received from our customers
has encouraged the entire
Citykart team to expand
our store presence and
product offerings.”
Additionally, Apparel Group
India has announced expansion
into six Indian Tier-2 cities –
Udaipur, Ranchi, Kozhikode,
Kanpur, Udupi and Mangaluru.
This strategic move aims to
capture the untapped potential
of regional markets and marks
a significant milestone in
Apparel Group’s commitment
to making international
brands accessible to every
corner of the country.
This move also signifies the
company’s commitment to
capitalising on the evolving
market dynamics and catering
to the rising demands and
preferences of consumers in
these regions.
“Apparel Group India’s
expansion in these cities is a
testament to our commitment
to meet the evolving needs and
aspirations of our customers,”
stated Tushar Ved, President –
Apparel Group India Pvt. Ltd.,
adding, “The Tier-2 cities are
experiencing a surge in brand
consciousness, influenced by
the power of social media and
increasing media exposure, as
well as the availability of quality
retail spaces. They represent an
exciting opportunity for growth
and we are eager to bring the
latest trends to their doorstep.”
SNIPS
The Diwali season has
witnessed a record
retail sales of Rs. 3.75
lakh crore, according
to CAIT, with textiles
and garments
accounting for a 12
per cent share of
the sales.
Styched, the leading
Indian D2C fashion
and lifestyle brand,
has announced
the revival of the
casual sneaker label,
Flatheads, following
a significant
acquisition deal.
TMRW, the brands’
business of The
Aditya Birla Group,
has invested Rs. 155
crore (about US $ 18.6
million) in The Indian
Garage Co (TIGC),
one of the leading
D2C brands.
Brand Studio Lifestyle
(BSL), a hub of fast
fashion, reported a
substantial growth of
132 per cent in annual
shipments, totaling
a record-breaking 43
lakh pieces in October,
attributed to the
sale of trendy Gen
Z-focused styles.
SBI Card and Reliance
Retail have partnered
to introduce the
‘Reliance SBI Card’,
a lifestyle-focused
credit card catering
to diverse customer
segments and
spending needs.
RETAIL RIGHT//NATIONAL
17
December 2023 | AO India 17
December 2023 | AO India
RETAIL RIGHT//NATIONAL NEWS
Apparel companies see a good Q2 with growing profits
Trent is one of the leading
players in the branded
retail industry in India. Its
apparel retail operation under
Westside has over 22 labels
while the Zudio brand is
growing aggressively.
Indian apparel companies
saw good Q2 results with
rise in profits and revenue.
They are also banking on the
festive and wedding seasons to
further increase these profits.
Indian textiles maker
Raymond eked out a marginal
rise in its net profit for the
September quarter, despite a
delayed festive and wedding
season that typically boosts
demand. The company’s
consolidated net profit for the
quarter ended 30th September
inched up to Rs. 159.78 crore
from Rs. 158.86 crore in the
previous year.
Revenue from operations,
however, grew by 4 per cent
year-on-year to Rs. 2,253.4
crore from Rs. 2,168.2 crore
in the same period previous
quarter. The company’s
EBITDA (earnings before
interest, taxes, depreciation,
and amortisation) stood at
Rs. 382 crore, up by 7 per
cent from Rs. 358 crore in the
previous year.
“With the onset of festivities
and wedding season, we at
Raymond are optimistic that
there will be an uptick in
consumer demand and overall
sentiments should remain
positive,” said Gautam Hari
Singhania, Chairman and
MD, Raymond Ltd.
“Raymond continues to attest
its growth momentum with
strong quarter-on-quarter
performance and Q2 FY
’24 was the 9th consecutive
quarter that reported the
highest-ever performance
both in terms of revenue and
EBITDA,” the company said.
The company’s branded textile
segment saw a stable top-
18 AO India | December 2023
line performance during the
September quarter, with sales
of Rs. 933 crore, compared
to Rs. 912 crore last year. The
quarter saw a reduced offtake
due to postponed festivals
and wedding dates, further
impacted by the presence of
an additional month (adhik
maas) in the Hindu calendar
this year. Despite these factors,
the segment maintained a
healthy EBITDA margin of
22.1 per cent.
The branded apparel segment
achieved significant growth
in the second quarter of
the fiscal year 2024, with
sales reaching Rs. 437 crore,
an impressive 18 per cent
increase compared to Rs. 370
crore in the same quarter last
year. This remarkable growth
is attributed to the exceptional
performance of the company’s
own retail stores and the large
format stores (LFS) channel.
Garmenting segment sales
grew by 18 per cent to Rs. 312
crore in Q2 of FY 2024. The
business continues to leverage
high demand in the US
and European markets, the
company said.
Similarly, Tata Group’s
Trent Limited reported a
surge of 188.9 per cent in
consolidated net profit at Rs.
228.06 crore in Q2 FY ’24
against the net profit of Rs.
78.94 crore in Q2 FY ’23.
In a regulatory filing, the
company said that its total
income jumped 51.4 per cent
to Rs. 3,062.47 crore in Q2
FY ’24 as against Rs. 2,022.66
crore in Q2 FY ’23.
Noel N Tata, Chairman,
Trent Limited commented
on results, “Our lifestyle
offerings across concepts,
categories and channels
witnessed strong
momentum in Q2 FY ’24
despite challenging market
conditions. We continue
to see growing relevance
for our offerings, resilience
in our business model
choices and attractiveness
of our differentiated
platform. We will expand
and deepen our store
presence with the aim of
being ever more proximate
and convenient to
customers reinforcing our
brand promise.”
Additionally, during the
second quarter for current
fiscal, for Reliance, the fashion
and lifestyle segment grew
by 32 per cent year on year.
Despite the fact that the
holiday season falls entirely
in the next quarter, the offline
business grew strongly.
Overall, Reliance Retail
Venture’s gross revenue
increased to Rs. 77,148 crore
in Q2 of FY ’24 compared
to Rs. 69,948 crore in Q2,
FY ’23.
It performed well online
as well as offline as the
company’s financials say that
Ajio, the fashion e-commerce
platform of Reliance expanded
its catalogue by 50 per cent
Y-o-Y. Its offline business
delivered robust growth
despite festive period falling
in current quarter.
The company recently
launched a new format
‘Yousta’, offering fast
fashion at affordable prices
targeted the youth segment
while Trends launched
concept stores with futureready, immersive shopping
experiences.
“I am delighted to report
that we have delivered yet
another quarter of stellar
performance and achieved an
all-time high across financial
matrices,” said Isha M.
Ambani, ED, Reliance Retail
Ventures Limited.
19
December
2023 || AO
19
October 2023
AO India
India 19
December 2023 | AO India
RETAIL RIGHT//INTERNATIONAL
GAMIFICATION OF FASHION:
A COMBINATION THAT IS FAST
BECOMING A HIT
Because of their increasing popularity
and the possibilities for virtual sales,
partnerships and influencer marketing,
video games are being taken seriously by
the fashion industry. There is nowadays
an increasing desire for stylish virtual
apparel and accessories because of
the chance to connect with a new and
interested audience, personalise avatars
and showcase personal style. The
gaming sector is valued at billions of
dollars and the fashion industry now has
access to new revenue streams, thanks to
the growth of e-commerce. Prominent
fashion retailers such as Gucci, Prada,
Louis Vuitton and Moschino have
ventured into the realm of virtual
20 AO India | December 2023
fashion by means of immensely popular
game franchises, ranging from Roblox
and other metaverse gaming platforms
to The Sims and League of Legends.
Why fashion and gaming
are a good fit
The relationship between identity
and fashion has always been close.
Customers use labels, fashion trends
and apparel to visibly convey their
individuality and sense of style. The
same is true for gaming in many
respects. Gaming and fashion also go
hand in hand because both aim to give
enthusiasts a world of larger-than-life,
aspirational experiences.
Avatars, the virtual representations of
players, take on the appearance and
attire of the actual players. Think about
the multiplayer shooter game Fortnite,
where a player's avatar and the ‘skins’
they choose to use to play can reveal
their gaming history as well as their
unique sense of style.
Most skins are purchased, just like
clothing and some have a finite
shelf life. Furthermore, avatars and
skins can convey cultural and trend
knowledge, just like clothing in the real
world, which is something that young
customers are eager to flaunt. When
these cultures are reduced to their most
basic components, the cachet of sporting
RETAIL RIGHT//INTERNATIONAL
smartphone users to devoted PC and
console owners. Even while gamers
come in all different age groups, the
great majority of younger viewers turn
to gaming over more conventional
media as their primary source of
socialisation and pleasure.
Fashion brands had to swiftly think
outside the box in order to reach
audience during the Coronavirus
pandemic. They had to move away from
the typical ‘shop window’ out-of-home
model into the digital world. Premium
fashion label Balenciaga collaborated
with the well-known battle royale
game Fortnite to showcase its apparel
collections through exclusive skins that
could be acquired in-game.
Louis Vuitton x League of Legends Capsule collection
a designer label is similar to that of
using a prized skin to play a game.
Apart from virtual skins, the market for
apparel collaborations is also quite well.
Capsule collections become a hit when
they’re paired with hit games. Epic
Games collaborated with Japanese fastfashion giant Uniqlo. The two teamed
up to create a new apparel collection
inspired by Fortnite, which launched
in December 2020. The launch was a
massive success, featuring characters
from the game on the front (and often
back) of sweatshirts, T-shirts and more.
Louis Vuitton partnered with Riot
Games to design a League of Legends
Capsule Collection. The collection
presents the game’s theme across
T-shirts, sneakers, pants, bags and select
items with price tags as low as US $ 170
up to a US $ 5,600 leather jacket.
Diesel, H&M and recently, Moschino
have all partnered with the Sims
franchise for several capsule collections.
League of Legends launched a
streetwear collection with Aape by A
Bathing Ape.
The gaming-fashion collaboration
is also seen in the game Animal
Crossing’s design that allows players
to dress their avatars in Prada, OffWhite, Ratberry (by Burberry) and
Gucci Arcade. These projects have
taken the ‘Lux x Gaming’ (luxury and
gaming) world by storm and created an
unlikely demographic of new gamers.
How fashion and gaming
combine and collaborate
Over 3.2 billion individuals play video
games globally, ranging from infrequent
Over 3.2 billion individuals
play video games globally,
ranging from infrequent
smartphone users to
devoted PC and console
owners, with the market
in 2023 projected to have
over US $ 240 billion in
revenue.
Additionally, reports revealed that a
growing number of fashion enthusiasts
are becoming major gamers. According
to Anzu's study on American gamers,
76 per cent of them follow influencers
and fashion companies and 66 per
cent of them indulge in upscale
brands. Many of the US gamers who
participated in the survey turned out to
be affluent buyers; 47 per cent said they
bought Gucci, 43 per cent purchased
Dior and 29 per cent bought Chanel.
Additionally, fashion businesses are
utilising gaming in more intelligent
ways than in the past. Examples include
Louis Vuitton gracing League of
Legends' MOBA (Multiplayer Online
Battle Arena) main stage, which attracts
over 117 million monthly active players
and is the fourth most popular PC
game of 2022 and Prada showcasing its
clothing in Ubisoft's thrilling racing
game, Riders Republic.
With League of Legends, the fourth
most played PC game of 2022 and a
well-known MOBA with over 117
million monthly active players, Louis
Vuitton promoted its products with
exclusive content.
The emergence of metaverse, which gave
fashion houses ranging from high-street
to high-end access to a global audience
of socially conscious gamers, has been
another factor driving the growth of
fashion brand gaming advertising.
December 2023 | AO India
21
RETAIL RIGHT//INTERNATIONAL
Fashion brands can now choose which
games, audiences and genres to target
with intrinsic in-game ads, which are ad
placements that are specifically created
in the game environment, as opposed
to being limited to expensive ‘one-off’
collaborations, thanks to the rise and
adoption of in-game advertising.
Levi's, with the help of Anzu's
in-game advertising solution, was
able to advertise its 501 jeans brand
range across a variety of thrilling PC
and mobile games, including hugely
popular titles like Trackmania, Tennis
Clash and Gravity Rider Zero. This
is a shining example of successful ingame ads.
Gucci in Roblox
Due to this, Levi’s saw a 6 per cent
increase in brand consideration, a 16
per cent increase in brand ad recall
amongst consumers of premium jeans
and nearly two-third of exposed
gamers took an affirmative action after
seeing the ad in-game, such as visiting
the Levi's website or shopping in its
online store.
Levi's Ad in Video Game
In Roblox, a gaming metaverse
platform with over 42.3 million daily
active users worldwide, Gucci famously
unveiled its Gucci Garden Experience.
Meanwhile, American Eagle used
the platform to create its own AE
Clubhouse and advertise its 2022
Spring Collection in Livetopia, one of
Roblox's top 10 experiences
with over 1.5 billion visits at the time
of the campaign.
Apart from games, another untapped
resource which is coming into the
limelight are the gamers themselves.
Top gamers are new celebrities and
influencers since they earn their
millions from leveraging their massive
online followings into endorsements,
fees and sponsorships.
Ninja (Tyler Blevins) is one of the first
pro-gamers to have his own sneaker
collaboration. He has released his
collaborative sneakers with iconic brand
22 AO India | December 2023
Adidas. His current fan following is
18.77 million on Twitch and he has
23.7 million subscribers on YouTube.
His net worth in 2023 stands at US $
17 million.
Designer Heron Preston has
collaborated with Puma to design jerseys
that were worn by Esports organisation
Gen.G during their League of Legends
World Championship.
Games: An alternative
marketing strategy
The gaming industry has developed
creative ways to promote their
collections, such as using prominent
fashion companies to outfit game
characters or inserting advertisements
on mobile games. Subtle marketing
that is incorporated into the game
and plot itself is gradually replacing
traditional marketing.
Adidas and EA Sports teamed
together to provide FIFA ’22 players
with a special discount on select
Adidas items. These partnerships and
transactions benefit both businesses.
Similarly, characters were outfitted in
the recognisable Balenciaga clothing
through a partnership with Fortnite.
Some companies are even creating
exclusive, one-of-a-kind products
just for those games. Certain
Fortnite-branded clothing were
sold in fast-fashion stores like Primark
and on well-known e-commerce sites
like Amazon.
The relationship between fashion and
video games is becoming increasingly
important and influential. Through
collaborations, influencer marketing
and e-commerce, the fashion industry
is finding new and innovative ways
to engage with players and sell products
in the gaming world. The relationship
between fashion and video games is
expected to continue to grow and evolve
in the coming years, providing exciting
new opportunities for both industries.
VASUDHA PRIMO CRAFTED FROM
REGENERATIVE ORGANIC COTTON
G
IN
UR
SU
L
TERIA
MA
TE
SOLU COMPO
B
A
ST
I
AW
NG
100%
compostable
Regenerative
Organic Cotton
RESPONS
IBL
ER
ST
AIN
A B LE M A N
CT
A
UF
Solar Powered facility
Energy and water efficient
machines
ZDHC MRSL V2.4 & ZLD
Compliant
Salt Free Dyeing
Zero Waste Spinning
Vasudha Primo by Pratibha Syntex Ltd is an eco-friendly product that embodies
sustainability and circularity. Crafted from regenerative organic cotton, the product
fortifies the well-being of farmers and biodiversity and enhances soil health. Its absolute
composting, minimized emissions, and steadfast dedication to ethical labour practices,
demonstrate a strong commitment to social responsibility and circularity.
VASUDHA PRIMO
PRATIBHA SYNTEX
sales@pratibhasyntex.com | www.pratibhasyntex.com
23
December 2023 | AO India 23
December 2023 | AO India
RETAIL RIGHT//INTERNATIONAL NEWS
www.apparelresources.com
Luxury brands see increased sales
SNIPS
John Lewis has
launched its Black
Friday sale ‘earlier
than ever’ as
more consumers
begin preparing
for Christmas in
November. For
the entire month
of November, the
department store is
offering hundreds
of deals in-store and
online.
Luxury brands have seen
increased quarterly sales
despite customers holding back
for the holiday season, bringing
confidence to the segment for
the year ahead.
Hermès, the French luxury
brand, has reported sales of
£ 2.8 billion (€ 3.3 billion)
for the third quarter, up
by 7.3 per cent but lower
than previous quarters in
the current fiscal year. Sales
increased by 7 per cent in the
leather goods business, thanks
to ‘very consistent demand
and high desirability’.
The men’s and women’s S/S
’24 fashion presentations were
‘very well received’ and the
ready-to-wear and accessories
division saw 10.2 per cent
growth. However, sales
declined by 1.7 per cent in
the company’s silk and textiles
Sales increased by 7
per cent in Hermès'
leather goods
business, thanks
to ‘very consistent
demand and high
desirability’.
24 AO India | December 2023
business. Sales in Europe
increased by 16.4 per cent
as a result of ‘loyalty of local
customers and dynamic tourist
flows,’ with ‘solid performances’
across the board.
The company stated that
it will continue the year
with confidence, thanks
to the “highly integrated
artisanal model, the balanced
distribution network, the
creativity of collections
and the loyalty of clients.”
Axel Dumas, Executive
Chairman of Hermès, said,
“The solid performance in
the third quarter reflects the
desirability of our collections
all over the world.”
Similarly, Italian luxury group
Moncler is expected to post
a healthy rise in quarterly
sales, thanks to a strong brand
presence despite the warmer
weather, although growth will
be slower than in the first half.
Analysts are concerned about
the impact on the company,
which is best known for
puffy duvet jackets, even after
diversifying through product
range expansion and the nearly
three-year acquisition of the
Stone Island streetwear brand.
The first and
fourth quarters
saw a higher
concentration of
Moncler’s retail
sales due to the
significance of
coats and winter
merchandise.
According to a consensus
offered by the business,
Moncler’s sales in the third
quarter are anticipated to
increase by around 8 per cent
at constant exchange rates,
reaching € 670 million (US $
711 million). In the first half,
revenues increased by 24 per
cent at constant exchange rates.
The Asia-Pacific area will
fuel growth, while sales in
the Americas are predicted to
decline even more as a result
of certain US stores switching
from wholesale to retail,
according to Barclays analysts.
The first and fourth quarters
saw a higher concentration of
Moncler’s retail sales due to
the significance of coats and
winter merchandise.
The National Retail
Federation (NRF)
has introduced a
comprehensive
framework, titled
Principles for the
Use of Artificial
Intelligence, to guide
the ethical integration
and strategic planning
of AI in the retail
sector.
LVMH is currently
ubiquitous in major
sporting events,
seeking to maximise
their visibility in
the sporting world
ahead of the Paris
2024 Olympic and
Paralympic Games,
of which LVMH is a
premium partner.
SHEIN, the ultrafast fashion giant,
has established
Spain as one of its
primary markets in
Europe. Furthermore,
Europe stands as the
company’s secondlargest sales territory,
with the United States
taking the lead.
RETAIL RIGHT//INTERNATIONAL NEWS
www.apparelresources.com
Shoplifting causing UK retail problems
Boohoo has broken
promises to make
its clothes fairly,
an undercover
BBC Panorama
investigation has
found, with the fast
fashion giant allegedly
pressuring suppliers
to drive down prices,
even after deals had
been agreed.
This holiday season, shoplifting
has become a major concern
for retailers across the UK. In
response, the authorities are
cracking down on incidents and
trying to prevent these crimes
from happening.
Shoplifting in the UK has hit
record levels, official figures
show. There’s been a 25 per cent
increase in a year, reaching an
unprecedented 1,000 offences
a day, according to the data
from the Office for National
Statistics (ONS).
A total of 365,164 crimes were
reported, an increase of 24.6
per cent over the year prior and
a larger number than the 24.4
per cent post-Covid increase
in 2021–22. Additionally,
detection rates have reached
a historic low, with only 18.2
per cent of crimes being solved,
which is less than half of the 46
per cent recorded when records
first started in 2016.
The percentage of shoplifters
charged has also decreased
throughout this time, falling
from 29.7 per cent to barely
14 per cent. Retailers claim
that since shoplifting is now
so common, they must add
6p to every store transaction
to cover the cost of the £ 1
billion in annual thefts as
well as the additional £ 700
million they must spend on
security measures.
The figures come ahead of
the government and police
chiefs unveiling plans soon to
tackle the surge in shoplifting
with a pledge to investigate
every crime where there is a
‘reasonable’ line of inquiry.
Additionally, in a decisive move,
UK Ministers, law enforcement
SNIPS
agencies and retailers are
joining forces to combat the
rampant issue of shoplifting
with a robust ‘zero-tolerance’
strategy. Policing Minister
Chris Philp chaired a meeting
with senior police leaders and
13 of the UK’s biggest retailers
to launch the Retail Crime
Action Plan.
The plan outlines a firm
commitment from the police to
prioritise immediate response to
shoplifting incidents involving
violence against shop workers,
cases where security guards
have apprehended offenders, or
situations requiring evidence
preservation. Police presence
will be based on risk assessment,
with a heightened focus on
prolific or juvenile offenders.
Police authorities have also
reiterated their dedication
to thoroughly investigating
any leads that could lead to
apprehending culprits. Law
enforcement agencies will
intensify targeted patrols in
heavily impacted areas.
The plan provides retailers with
guidelines on how to present
compelling evidence for police
investigations. Retailers are
urged to promptly submit
complete CCTV footage of
the entire incident, along with
images of the shoplifter from
digital evidence management
systems after an offence occurs.
Whenever CCTV or digital
images are available, law
enforcement will employ
facial recognition technology,
cross-referencing data through
the Police National Database.
This method aims to aid in
identifying and prosecuting
offenders, especially those
with a history of prolific
or potentially dangerous
behaviour.
Furthermore, a specialised
police team, named Pegasus,
will be established to develop
a comprehensive intelligence
network on organised crime
gangs driving numerous
shoplifting incidents
nationwide. This initiative,
a collaboration between
businesses and law enforcement,
will enhance information
sharing between retailers and
police. It will facilitate a deeper
understanding of the strategies
employed by organised retail
crime gangs and enable the
identification of more offenders.
The project includes the
creation of a new informationsharing platform and training
programs for retailers.
With an investment
of more than US $ 9
billion, US retail chain
Walmart will upgrade
and modernise
some US stores with
improved layouts,
expanded product
selections and new
tech additions. In total,
it plans to modernise
more than 1,400 of its
4,717 Walmart stores
across the country.
US athleisure brand
Alo Yoga has made
its mark in the UK
with the opening
of its first flagship
store on London’s
King’s Road recently.
This marks the initial
foray into physical
retail for Alo Yoga in
the UK, with plans
for two additional
standalone stores in
London scheduled
for 2024.
Louis Vuitton has
announced an
extension of Nicolas
Ghesquière’s contract
as the artistic director
of womenswear for
another five years.
December 2023 | AO India
25
EXPERT SPEAKS
INDIA: THE WORLD’S
MANUFACTURING HUB FOR
APPAREL AND TEXTILES OR HAS
IT MISSED THE TRAIN YET AGAIN?
workforce, stable business environment,
government support, favourable policies,
strong democracy, a growing and robust
economy besides active sustainable
lifestyle practices. But, despite all
these, India seems to have missed the
bus many a times in over the last two
decades, including in 2005, when the
quota system was done and dusted with.
Manish Tribhuwan
Manish Tribhuwan is a fashion
professional by qualification and
entrepreneur by attitude, a sourcing
and product wizard by skills, a life
skill and transformation coach by
passion and an athlete by choice.
An alumnus of 1995-97 batch of NIFT,
he comes with more than 26 years
of learning experience in fashion
and textile industry. He has worked
with companies like VF Corp, Arvind
Brands, Pratibha Syntex Ltd., and
Blackberrys to name a few. With
an ability to speak in 17 languages,
Manish has coached, mentored
over 10,000 youths and
professionals through Niftwecare
and Creatnet Education.
Once known as the ‘Global Capital
for Textiles’, India is perhaps the only
country across the globe that has
abundance of raw material, skilled
26 AO India | December 2023
Other subcontinents and Asian
countries zoomed past us, despite not
having the wherewithal that India has,
right from fibre to finished product,
complimented with strengths of
embellishment, design sensibilities and
craft. India’s craft capabilities have been
second to none but are still extremely
underrated and undermarketed.
However, with the world exploring
options beyond China, as an answer to the
global manufacturing needs, it’s a huge
opportunity for India to prove its mettle.
Though India has moved many miles
ahead in IT, electronics and in some
other manufacturing industries, textiles
and apparel has still been a laggard.
India’s apparel exports for FY 2022-23,
US $ 16.7 billion, stands at 10 per cent
below the level from where it was in
2017 (US $ 18 billion).
However, I still have a strong
conviction that India will soon be the
world’s manufacturing hub for apparel
and textiles.
To explain the reasons for the same, I
have broken my vision into two parts
which are further divided into seven
points each:
l Wonders that work for Indian
apparel and textiles industry
l Wanders (Distraction) that Indian
apparel and textiles industry needs
to work upon
Seven wonders positively impacting the
Indian apparel and textiles industry are
as follows:
World looking at China+1
or China’s Alternative:
l With the world looking at China’s
alternative or China + 1, whatever
we would like to call it, India
becomes a natural choice for various
reasons that are stated further, one
of them being the country’s majority
population speaking English.
Raw material abundance
l India is the largest cotton producer
(23 per cent) in the world and
has the highest area under cotton
cultivation (39 per cent of world
area).
l The country is the second largest
producer and exporter of manmade
fibres and textiles (polyester and
viscose).
l It holds the number one position in
jute manufacturing and the second
position in silk manufacturing.
Multiple clusters with
specific strengths
l For individual product categories,
India has several varied clusters
like Surat, Ahmedabad, Vapi,
Jetpur, Tirupur, Erode, Salem,
Karur, Kolkata, Banaras, LucknowJaipur, Jodhpur, Pali-Ranchi, Patna,
Bhubaneswar, Ludhiana, Jalandhar,
EXPERT SPEAKS
Delhi and NCR, Sonipat, Panipat,
Kangra, Kashmir, Bengaluru,
Bhagalpur and Kanchipuram
Humongous and young
workforce
l Each of these clusters have skilled
workers for products, processes,
operations.
l
The workforce is young, energetic
and committed.
Fifth largest and fastest
growing economy
l India which is the fifth largest
economy globally, aspires to become
the third largest economy soon
and hence it is focused on creating
world-class infrastructure, skills,
connectivity.
l As the fastest growing economy,
India has the wherewithal to
provide support that apparel and
textiles industry needs for further
fuelling its growth engine.
l India's tremendously growing
economy provides an opportunity
for the world to invest and
partner with.
opportunities at hand, the possible
challenges and needs. These will help
the government to collaborate and
work in tandem with the industry.
l Consistent and stable governance
is key for any country to become
a global hub. India, the largest
democracy with vast geography and
smooth transfer of power, provides
the ideal platform to the world,
when it comes to alternate or +1
manufacturing hub.
1) Lack of technological advancement
Stable democracy and
geography
l IT, Electronics and Automobiles are
big examples of India's abilities as a
manufacturing hub.
Agile and qualified leader
as Minister of Textiles
India’s textile industry is now being
led by a professional Chartered
Accountant who understands the
business processes thoroughly,
Seven wanders that are not in favour of
Indian apparel and textiles industry are
explained below:
l Technologies involved in process of
textiles lack advancement. Mills and
machineries are outdated.
l This is a big hurdle for India when it
comes to meeting the quality needs
of export customers.
2) Lack of leadership talent in
manufacturing
l While India has massive workforce
as workers and supervisors, what is
clearly lacking is great talent on the
production floor as there is dearth of
leaders with technical qualifications
to enable technological upgradation
and usage, human empowerment,
process implementation and so
December 2023 | AO India
27
EXPERT SPEAKS
on. This is primarily because the
educated youths do not want to work
amidst the hard conditions of the
production floor.
l Production floor skills in India are
low. Technicians are not respected as
they are in other parts of Asia, EU,
US. Because of this, most of the big
talents are moving away from the
production floor.
l Mushrooming opportunities in
buying, online businesses, brands, tech
start-ups are attracting young and
good talents because of easier working
conditions.
3) Lack of scale
l Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia
grew and went past India in global
share of apparel exports because they
created scale. It required some big
investments for which both investors
and government stepped in.
l Shrinking margins, due to multiple
reasons, like higher process loss,
quality and efficiency loss in
manufacturing, are negatively affecting
business volumes. Now we are in a
catch 22 situation. Government wants
industry to commit investment for
scaling up and industry is looking for
incentives from the government to
commit to investment.
4) Dyeing craft
l India has been a country of unique
arts and crafts. Each of the states
are known for their innovative art
forms like Bagru print of Rajasthan,
Banarasi saree of Varanasi, Chikankari
of Lucknow, Ikat from Odisha
and Andhra, Silk from Bhagalpur
of Bihar and Muddenahalli, Mysore
of Karnataka.
l We have not put in enough efforts for
these crafts to gain global prominence.
5) Lack of Government focus
l Apparel and textiles is a small ticket
industry in comparison to an Apple
iPhone factory or a semi-conductor
factory. Hence, it lacks significant
government attention, however, things
are changing for good now.
28 AO India | December 2023
l India is historically an importer
of large ticket products like CBU
automobiles and electronics and
exporter of low ticket products like
apparel and textiles, food grains.
So, a Blanket FTA makes it an
imbalance agreement.
l Countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam
and Cambodia have apparel and
textiles majorly contributing to their
GDP and their FTAs were signed
long ago, which gave them a straight
advantage of 12 per cent in apparel
and textiles.
6) Poor, cheap quality products
l India has not been focused on making
great quality products, particularly
in weaving, dyeing and processing as
it requires big investments on high
technology machines. Most large
manufacturing set-ups are established
with old machines imported from
other countries, which helped in
keeping the capital investment at
lower level but this has negatively
impacted the product capability.
l Because we were largely a craftbased manufacturing hub, using
manual processes, inconsistency
was considered as a design element
and it became our DNA. We never
focused on bringing consistency in
our operations.
l We have always looked at quality as
For individual product
categories, India has
several varied clusters like
Surat, Ahmedabad, Vapi,
Jetpur, Tirupur, Erode,
Salem, Karur, Kolkata,
Banaras , Lucknow-Jaipur,
Jodhpur, Pali-Ranchi,
Patna , Bhubaneshwar,
Ludhiana, Jalandhar,Delhi
and NCR, Sonipat,
Panipat, Kangra, Kashmir,
Bengaluru, Bhagalpur and
Kanchipuram.
a cost centre, without realising that
‘Good quality is costly, poor quality is
costlier’ or ‘Poor quality is cheap, good
quality is cheaper’.
7) Lethargic supply chain process
l If we look at the calendar of any
brand, we primarily have 5Ds that
take an inexplicable amount of time:
i.
Discovery of trend –
Minimum 4-8 weeks
ii. Designing of the product –
4-8 weeks
iii. Developing the product –
4-8 weeks
iv. Delivering the product –
8-16 weeks
v. Distribution of the product –
2-4 weeks
l With trends changing almost every
thirty days and digital social media
platforms and influencers playing a
big role in it, such widely stretched
lead times make a product redundant,
irrelevant as it goes out of fashion by
the time it reaches the retail outlets.
This impacts the sell-through of
products. Our supply chain needs to
be a lot more nimble, agile and flexible
to be able to deliver at least 50 per
cent of the products (core and basic
fashion) in under 30 days. Technology
can be a great enabler in cutting
down the timeline and making the
entire discovery, design and product
development and approval process far
more efficient.
However, despite the vast number of
hurdles, abundance of opportunities;
hardworking, ambitious and skilled
youths; a supportive government;
cutting-edge technology start-ups;
and world’s belief in India’s ability and
leadership ensure that India is ready to
take on a journey of exponential growth
like never before. Newer manufacturing
geographies, young entrepreneurs
jumping into fashion retail with new
product categories are some of the
growth engines that will drive India’s
apparel and textiles industry much
beyond US $ 40 billion by 2030.
29
December 2023 | AO India 29
December 2023 | AO India
COVER STORY
THE UNIFORM CODE:
A SECTOR POISED FOR GROWTH
In the world of workwear, uniforms
are the unsung heroes—more than
just outfits, they’re the superheroes of
identity, safety and professionalism.
From the factory floor to the corporate
boardroom, these uniforms play dress-up
while representing the serious business of
looking good and staying safe. In India,
the market for these work wardrobes is
gearing up for some serious growth.
Many companies, especially
in industries like retail, food,
pharmaceuticals, healthcare,
automobiles, mining and more, provide
uniform/workwear to their staff.
After diving into available reports and
data, we discovered that more than
11 crore individuals wear uniforms or
30 AO India | December 2023
specific work clothes across sectors.
Whether it’s a security guard, a miner
or a pilot, depending on their job, they
could receive anywhere from one to
five uniforms annually. If each person
gets around two uniforms yearly, then
considering a modest estimate of Rs.
2000 per uniform, this market hits a
minimum of Rs. 44,000 crore (approx.
US $ 5.5 billion) per year in India. The
growing workforce, particularly the
increasing participation of women in the
professional arena, is further propelling
the demand for uniforms.
The management across the
manufacturing and related fields is also
becoming more aware of job-related
risks. Vendor companies are now
obligated to adhere to international
safety standards stipulated by buyer
requirements. This, along with the need
to foster a strong corporate identity, has
led to a heightened demand for both
basic and protective workwear.
Workwear types for
different professions
Workwear is diverse and tailored to
meet the needs of various jobs and
industries. For instance, coveralls and
overalls offer full-body protection and
find utility across multiple industries.
Mechanics rely on overalls to safeguard
against oil and grease, while workers
dealing in hazardous substances opt for
sealed coveralls.
COVER STORY
Private sectors and their workforce
using uniforms
Construction sector
71
Automobile sector
19
Corporate sector, institutional
(including hospitality sector (hotels,
aviation, food processing, restaurants
petrol pumps)
27
Healthcare sector
5.7
Private security guards
0.5
Mining
1.3
Energy sector
0.1
Government, semi government workforce
Army, navy, airforce and paramilitary
forces
3.6
State Police, states’ home guard
3.1
Transport (including railway, metro,
roadways)
2.1
PSU
1
Postal department
0.4
NCC and NSS students
5.2*
(all figures in million)
(*students get uniforms from Government)
Additionally, flame-resistant clothing
is essential for those facing fire
hazards, like welders and electricians,
protecting by resisting ignition or
self-extinguishing if ignited. Workers
in cold climates require insulated
jackets, hats, gloves and thermal pants
to combat extreme temperatures and
frostbite. While not strictly workwear,
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
is crucial in diverse environments.
The companies like Zomato and Swiggy have lakhs of delivery boys
It includes safety helmets, gloves,
masks, eyewear and boots designed to
safeguard against specific hazards.
Industries with strict hygiene standards
such as food and healthcare require
easily washable workwear, including
aprons, hats, gloves, scrubs, lab coats
and protective footwear. Corporate
workwear comprises suits, ties,
blouses and other professional attire.
Workwear as a category includes a
variety of features such as lightweight,
anti-virus, antibacterial coatings,
quick dry, self-sanitising and germresistant surface, water observance,
stain-free, wrinkle-free and soft
feel. Advancements in science have
also introduced embedded sensors in
uniforms to monitor health vitals and
detect environmental risks.
India’s growing demand
for industrial workwear
India stands out as a huge market for
industrial workwear. The construction
sector, being the second-largest
employment generator, currently
employs 71 million, with estimates
predicting growth to 100 million
by 2030. In FY 2023, the mining
industry in India employed nearly 1.3
million people.
Similarly, Primus Partners, a
management consulting services
company, revealed that the Indian
automobile industry employed over 1.9
crore people in FY 2023. Additionally,
India’s 12 major oil and gas Public
“I am upbeat about the
growth of this segment in
the domestic market too as
companies across various
verticals are growing and
their awareness for quality
dresses is increasing. To
overcome quality issues,
various companies are now
sourcing uniforms from a
standard vendor having thrust
on quality.”
Ajay Mall
MD, Mallcom India
Sector Undertakings (PSUs) employed
110,000 permanent workers.
While workwear clothing exhibits
lower consumption compared to
value-added apparel, its replenishment
demand is high, especially as it is a
State-owned defence company Troops Comfort Limited, private giants like Arvind, Radnik
Exports and Wildcraft are also supplying uniforms and rucksacks to defence forces
December 2023 | AO India
31
COVER STORY
India’s flight crew, ground staff and
security personnel by the end of 2023.
necessity for individuals in various
industries. Unlike fashion garments,
which have limitations of season and
style, the majority of the uniforms
are free from such limitations. Even
to start a uniform business, apart
from technical garments, there is no
extra requirement for machines and
technology. The made-to-measure
segment within the uniform industry is
also experiencing growth.
Top companies in the industrial
workwear industry are confident about
the growth in this segment. Kolkatabased Mallcom India Ltd., is one of
them. This integrated manufacturer and
distributor of head-to-toe protection
equipment raked in a turnover of about
Rs. 410 crore in the last fiscal year. A
few years ago, textile and apparel player
Arvind Ltd., collaborated with JCB
India Ltd., a leading manufacturer
of earthmoving and construction
equipment in India, to launch a
distinctive line of ready-to-wear
industrial uniforms. Similar to upscale
clothing, the rental business within
the uniform segment is also on the rise
in India. International companies like
Lindström offer uniform rental services
to numerous companies across various
industries. The company, equipped with
cleanroom facilities, is expanding its
presence in India, recently branching
out into NCR and Hyderabad.
We reached out via email to prominent
companies in various sectors like
hospitality (Zomato, Swiggy, IndiGo);
mining (Vedanta Aluminium Limited,
Hindalco) and construction (Afcons
Infrastructure Limited, Reliance
Infrastructure Limited, GMR Group).
The email aimed to inquire about
their emphasis on design of uniforms,
sourcing, costs, challenges and related
aspects. Unfortunately, we did not
receive any response from them.
Designers revamp
hospitality uniforms
As per the Ministry of Civil
Aviation (MoCA), the present direct
employment in Indian Aviation stands
32 AO India | December 2023
“The next 10 years are going
to be the Amrit Kaal (Golden
Era) for the uniform sector in
India, as we will be riding the
wave of economic growth of
the country. With the huge
growth in the manufacturing
sector, corporate uniforms and
workwear segments will grow
significantly. Premiumisation
will push the demand for
high-quality uniforms too.
Customers will demand
better quality and will be
ready to pay a premium for
high quality. Hopefully, in the
coming decade, we will see
the emergence of a national
brand in the uniform category
which has been missing till
now.”
Sachin Sahni
CEO, YFM Uniforms
at 250,000, covering pilots, cabin crew,
engineers, technicians, airport staff,
ground handling, cargo, retail, security,
administrative and sales personnel.
This figure is expected to rise to
approximately 350,000 by 2024.
Several airlines are modernising their
uniforms to align with contemporary
trends. For instance, renowned
designer Manish Malhotra is
collaborating with Air India to design
new uniforms for over 10,000 of Air
Airlines prioritise durability,
functionality and breathability in fabric
and trims for uniforms. Subpar fabrics
can adversely affect both employees
and the airline’s brand. Recently, a
jury in California, US ruled that a
clothing company should pay more
than US $ 1 million to four American
Airlines flight attendants who claimed
that wearing its uniforms made them
ill. The attendants argued that the
uniforms contained traces of toxic
chemicals, including formaldehyde
and toluene, linked to health problems.
Fabrics with formaldehyde-containing
resins have been used for years to
maintain wrinkle-free clothes and
extend their lifespan.
Experts emphasised the prevalence of
PV blend as the most popular fabric
for corporate and hospitality uniforms
in both shirts and trousers and
claimed that the sector is estimated
to grow between 25 per cent to 50 per
cent annually.
There’s an increasing emphasis on
the design of uniforms, not just in
the private sector but also in some
government organisations. For
instance, the staff at the Indian
Parliament recently underwent a
uniform makeover designed by
NIFT, featuring ‘Nehru jackets’
and khaki-coloured pants. The
traditional bandhgala suit for
bureaucrats was replaced with a
vibrant magenta or deep pink Nehru
jacket. The dress of the security
personnel and marshals stationed at
parliament also saw a change.
Healthcare sector growing
fast post-Covid
In the post-Covid era, there is a
heightened emphasis on the health
sector. The demand for healthcare
professionals in India is surging due
to factors such as population growth,
aging, changing epidemiology and
an increased prevalence of noncommunicable diseases (NCDs).
COVER STORY
As of November 2021, reports indicate
13,01,319 allopathic doctors, 2.89 lakh
dentists, 32.63 lakh nursing personnel
and 13 lakh Allied and Healthcare
Professionals registered with the State
Medical Councils and the National
Medical Commission.
Recognising the importance of
uniforms in private hospitals, state
governments are also taking significant
steps. Earlier this year, Haryana
implemented a new dress code for
doctors, nurses and paramedics in
government hospitals. The objective is
to establish uniformity and aid patient
identification. Witnessing growth in
this category, newer players are also
entering into this segment. Suratbased Mediattire is one such company
that entered into this business just a
few months back and offers products
like scrub suits, lab coats, OT gowns,
patient gowns, etc.
Seizing opportunities
in defence and private
security sectors
India’s defence and security sectors
offer substantial opportunities for
uniform makers due to their sheer size.
The Indian Army, comprising over
1.2 million troops, is in the process
of procuring 11.7 lakh uniform kits
for JCOs and ORs as of August 2023.
The Army has secured Intellectual
“Companies are now
very much clear that their
employees wearing the
company’s uniforms are their
brand ambassadors, so the
thrust of the companies is now
on good quality uniforms.
The sector is growing almost
25 to 30 per cent on a Y-o-Y
basis. Major challenge in this
segment is quality that comes
from a lack of awareness in the
companies as most of the time
they are not clear what exactly
can serve their requirements.
To overcome this, we discuss
deeply to understand
the companies’ requirements
and ensure the best for them.”
“Arvind Human Protection
annually produces an
impressive 4 million pieces
of garments that transcend
the conventional, catering to
a diverse range of industries
including oil and gas, metal
manufacturing, utility,
healthcare, defence, corporate
institutions and more. What
distinguishes us is our end-toend approach, meticulously
overseeing the entire
production processes from
spinning to garmenting. Our
commitment to innovation
is underlined by the filing of
more than 30 patents.”
Hitesh Babariya
Chief Marketing Manager, Human
Protection Division, Arvind Limited
Director, Atlas Infiniti
Property Rights (IPR) for the design
and camouflage pattern of its newly
The present direct employment in Indian Aviation stands at 250,000, covering pilots, cabin crew, engineers, technicians, airport
staff, ground handling, cargo, retail, security, administrative and sales personnel
Parveen Kora
introduced Camouflage Pattern Dress.
The improved uniform, designed by the
country’s top fashion institute NIFT,
has a contemporary look and functional
design and the fabric has been made
lighter, more durable, breathable,
quick-drying and easier to upkeep.
Apart from ordnance factories like
state-owned defence company Troops
Comfort Limited, headquartered in
Kanpur, private giants like Arvind,
Radnik Exports and Wildcraft are also
supplying uniforms and rucksacks to
defence forces.
What’s promising is the growing
awareness amongst police
departments, with several states
seeking improved uniforms for their
police force. Representatives from two
Gujarat-based textile organisations,
December 2023 | AO India
33
COVER STORY
“Timely delivery with perfect
fitting, quality materials
and timely updates on the
latest trends in the market
are major challenges for
us and we approve the
sample before final order, to
overcome finishing and fitting
challenges.”
Sachindra Yadav
HR Head, JSS Group India
Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research
Association (ATIRA) and the Suratbased Man-Made Textiles Research
Association (MANTRA), recently
attended a key meeting of the committee
formed for ‘one nation, one police
uniform’ about a year after the idea was
mooted by PM Narendra Modi. The
members aboard the Ministry of Home
Affairs (MHA) panel shared expertise
linked to the idea.
Similarly, the world’s largest private
security industry in India has witnessed
remarkable growth, extending its
demand beyond the corporate sector
to residential households and real
estate complexes. With over 5 million
private security guards outnumbering
the 3.2 million police officers, the
sector provides ample opportunities for
uniform makers.
In India, there are thousands of agencies
providing security guards and most of
them invest between Rs. 1000 to Rs.
3000 per pair, covering all accessories.
Hurdles: Lack of security
awareness and market
fragmentation
In India, the landscape for uniform
makers is riddled with challenges
due to a lack of awareness and the
diversified needs across industries.
Sectors like healthcare, construction
and hospitality demand tailored
uniforms that align with safety
standards and functional necessities.
However, addressing this wide array
of requirements is no small feat for
manufacturers. Ensuring adherence to
evolving regulations and strict quality
standards, especially for specialised
gear like flame-resistant clothing and
PPE, poses a continuous challenge.
Leading overseas players in
uniform segment
• Delta Plus Group
• UniFirst
• Red Kap (VF Corp.)
• Aramark
• Cintas
• Alsco
• Workwear Uniform Group
Ltd. (WWUGL)
• Carhartt
• Uniforms N’ More
• Cherokee Medical Uniform
(Careismatic Brands)
• Alsico Group
• Gallagher Uniform
• Dickies
• Alinta Apparel
Few of the leading Indian
companies
• Mahavir Spinfab
• Mafatlal Industries
• Rama Overseas
• Hirawats
• HSD Uniforms
• Uniform Bucket
(JAF Enterprises)
Kolkata is a growing hub of industrial workwear
34 AO India | December 2023
Moreover, the demand for
customisation remains high. Each
client seeks unique designs, logos,
and specific colours, necessitating
cost-effective yet efficient production.
Fabric selection adds another layer of
complexity. Finding materials that
are both durable and comfortable
while meeting industry-specific
requirements at an affordable cost is
an ongoing struggle.
December 2023 | AO India
35
December 2023 | AO India
35
COVER STORY
BUYING & SOURCING
SOURCING 2.0:
PIONEERING THE NEXT ERA OF APPAREL
The fashion industry is currently facing mounting challenges in the form of economic uncertainty, geopolitical
disruptions, supply chain management, changing consumer preferences, technological advancements and more.
Therefore, we have started a three-part series to help the industry adapt and survive.
The first article of the series explored the key growth drivers of the Indian apparel market. The piece underscored the
need for keeping customers at the heart of business. By actively attending to their preferences, needs and concerns,
apparel retailers gain the ability to make well-informed decisions that deeply resonate with their target audience.
The power of compelling storytelling is essential in today’s bustling marketplace where distinguishing oneself amidst
information overload is the key to brand success. That’s not all! We even delved into details about the incubation of
start-ups within larger enterprises, personalisation as one of the most efficient marketing strategies, the growth of techdriven consumer experiences and numerous brands embracing sustainable technologies and materials.
In this second article, we are discussing Sourcing 2.0, focusing on the evolution of procurement through ‘Sourcing as
a Service’ (SaaS) using AI and ML. We explore the importance of enhanced collaboration between sales and sourcing
teams, the proactive role of manufacturers in fostering innovation, India’s rise as a viable alternative to China and a
whole lot more.
Our final piece will explore the multi-pronged approach needed to mitigate risks in apparel sourcing. It will delve into
methods such as balancing customer portfolios, implementing 3D virtual sampling, fostering global manufacturing
partnerships, collaborating closely with specific mills to streamline fabric selection, adopting nearshoring and other
contemporary approaches to reduce costs and enhance supply chain efficiency.
These insightful articles feature inputs from a diverse range of experts working with retailers, brands, buying and
trading houses.
36 AO India | December 2023
BUYING & SOURCING
The apparel sourcing industry was
by selecting suppliers with available
capacity while avoiding overloaded
ones. This real-time insight into
capacity utilisation is a gamechanger in ensuring smooth and
efficient operations, better inventory
management, eliminating duplicity and
ensuring transparency.
hit hard by the Covid-19 pandemic,
revealing vulnerabilities in global supply
chains. Disruptions like factory closures,
logistical hurdles and shifts in consumer
behaviour underscored the necessity for
more resilient and flexible supply chains.
Looking ahead, it’s increasingly evident
that supply-chain disruptions are not
fleeting but a lasting reality. To thrive,
the apparel industry must prepare
for unforeseen challenges, fostering
adaptable and flexible supply chains.
This entails proactive risk management,
contingency planning and enhanced
collaboration among supply chain
stakeholders.
Brands must prioritise transparency
in their sourcing strategies, ensuring
robust visibility and traceability
throughout the supply chain. This
approach empowers them to effectively
mitigate risks and respond to
unexpected disruptions.
Against this backdrop, industry leaders
shed light on key trends shaping
how brands and retailers approach
their sourcing strategies, fostering
innovation and adaptability.
Sourcing as a Service
(SaaS)
In the ever-evolving landscape of the
apparel industry, a new paradigm is
emerging, one that promises to redefine
the way brands and retailers approach
their sourcing strategies. This shift,
referred to as ‘Sourcing as a Service’
(SaaS), is gaining momentum and
transforming the traditional model of
apparel sourcing into a more agile, techdriven and consumer-centric approach.
SaaS leverages the power of data,
artificial intelligence (AI) and machine
learning (ML) to create a seamlessly
interconnected ecosystem. This
interconnectedness offers unparalleled
visibility into the supply chain,
enhancing trust and predictability. At
the core of this transformation journey
is the integration of digital technology
throughout the supply chain.
Narendra Babu
VP (Outsourcing) at Jockey India Page Industries
Narendra Babu, VP (Outsourcing)
at Jockey India - Page Industries,
argues that while the SaaS model is
not entirely new, its importance and
impact have significantly increased in
response to the challenges presented by
the Covid-19 pandemic. The pandemic
acted as a catalyst for change, revealing
vulnerabilities within global supply
chains, including volatile demand,
rising costs, geopolitical complexities
and an increased focus on social and
sustainability responsibilities.
One of the key advantages of adopting
the SaaS model is its ability to automate
data analysis. Through the use of
artificial intelligence and machine
learning, companies can not only detect
delays or disruptions but also assess the
ripple effect on various activities within
the supply chain. This predictive analysis
empowers businesses to proactively
manage potential disruptions.
Narendra explains, “Today, if I inquire
about the timeliness of my goods from
any of my vendors, they would initially
claim that everything is on schedule.
However, they rely on their Tier-2
suppliers, who, in turn, depend on
their Tier-3 suppliers. Digitally, we can
integrate these supply chains. When
there is visibility, there is a high level of
trust regarding the timing of my goods.
This significantly improves my flexibility
and agility.”
Additionally, digital tools enable
companies to optimise their orders
Moreover, SaaS digitises various
essential processes that sourcing
professionals engage in on a daily
basis. From vendor onboarding to
cost negotiations, technical audits and
quality management, these activities
are streamlined, reducing reliance on
time-consuming email exchanges and
Excel spreadsheets, thereby enhancing
efficiency and authenticity of data.
This profound transformation has
also brought sourcing professionals
closer to consumers. In fact, it’s
the consumers who hold the reins,
influencing sourcing choices based on
their acceptance or rejection of the
final product. The ‘real disruption’
lies in this newfound closeness to the
consumer, necessitating immediate
changes in the supply chain.
Collaboration between
sourcing and sales teams
Sourcing has often been seen as
the unsung hero, unnoticed unless
something goes wrong much like a
wicketkeeper in cricket. However,
this perception is gradually shifting,
marking a significant transformation in
the sourcing paradigm.
According to Shirish Srivastava, Head
of Apparel Sourcing, PUMA India,
sourcing teams must work in close
collaboration with sales teams. He
suggests that sourcing teams must add
substantial value beyond traditional
roles. With automation threatening
to streamline 80 per cent of sourcing
tasks, the focus must shift towards
innovation, product development and
competitive pricing. Collaborating
with the sales team, developing costeffective products, integrating new
technologies and providing multiple
solutions to challenges are paramount.
December 2023 | AO India
37
BUYING & SOURCING
product aesthetics and consequently,
consumer satisfaction.
Shirish Srivastava
Head of Apparel Sourcing,
PUMA India
Arjun Puri
Director at KAS India
The goal is to become indispensable
to the business, creating a symbiotic
relationship where the absence of
sourcing would render the brand
incomplete. “I think sourcing teams
which are especially for domestic
industries, if they do not feel that they
are an extension of the sales team and
work closely with them, they’re going
to get extinct. Trust me, 80 per cent of
the job that any sourcing organisation
does right now can be automated,”
stresses Shirish. He also emphasises on
the expertise expected from a sourcing
organisation by a brand.
For Arjun Puri, Director at KAS
India, the exclusive direct sourcing
arm of Kmart Group, cost, while
important, is no longer the sole
determinant of success. The focus has
shifted dramatically towards value
creation, fundamentally reshaping
the role of sourcing organisations.
The capacity of sourcing teams to
identify market-winning products,
meet deadlines and optimise
inventories has become paramount,
redefining the criteria for their success.
Simultaneously, businesses need to
recognise and invest in the invaluable
expertise that sourcing partners bring
to the table.
“Brands think of sourcing
organisations as product masters. For
instance, cotton prices went up last
year and commodity prices are going
up. How can we still maintain the
price or bring it down? We are subject
matter experts. It is the responsibility
of the sourcing team to reverse
engineer, find innovative solutions,
possibly localised, to maintain or
reduce prices,” says Shirish.
In essence, the future of sourcing in the
apparel sector lies in the establishment
of value-based partnerships. The
traditional debate of Commission basis
versus Free on Board (FOB) is evolving
into a nuanced discussion about value
creation. Leading industry voices are
urging stakeholders to view sourcing
not merely through the prism of money,
but as a collaborative venture focused
on mutual growth and innovation.
38 AO India | December 2023
Selection of buying
houses and
safeguarding data
A crucial element of a successful apparel
sourcing strategy is the careful selection
of buying offices and ensuring seamless
collaboration between design teams, all
the while safeguarding data integrity.
Narendra emphasises on the importance
of selecting the right buying office. Each
buying office possesses unique strengths,
such as on-time, quality, sustainability
or versatility. Therefore, meticulous
due diligence in the selection process
is crucial as it greatly influences the
challenges faced during the partnership.
Another significant hurdle is aligning
the creative vision of brand designers
with those of buying office designers.
The struggle for alignment can impact
In the era of technology, maintaining
data integrity is a vital concern. While
advanced systems may be in place, the
accuracy and reliability of the data are
of utmost importance. Errors in data
can significantly disrupt the sourcing
process, potentially leading to failures.
Additionally, safeguarding this data
from unauthorised access and ensuring
it is not shared with competing brands
is extremely critical. Narendra cautions,
“Data integrity is crucial. Data can be
inaccurate. Someone must be realistic
in finalising how buying offices protect
this data. Are they sharing this data
with other brands? How can you secure
it? This is one of the most significant
risks I see.”
Manufacturers as
innovators
Traditionally, manufacturers were
viewed as entities responsible for
production, adhering strictly to the
specifications provided by brands and
retailers. However, this perception is
undergoing a significant transformation.
Arjun briefed on the evolving role
of manufacturers wherein they
move beyond their conventional
responsibilities to embrace a proactive
approach. Manufacturers are no longer
mere executors of designs; they are
becoming trendsetters themselves. By
investing in technology and fostering
transparency, manufacturers are
engaging in co-creation with brands,
offering innovative solutions and ideas
Shirish underscores the intelligence and
creativity inherent in manufacturing
units. He urges manufacturers to adopt
a forward-thinking mindset, suggesting
that they venture into showcasing their
unique products and styles directly to
brands. By doing so, manufacturers
can explore collaborative opportunities,
potentially leading to the creation of
their own successful businesses. This
shift from being passive executors to
active collaborators is vital for their
growth and sustainability.
BUYING & SOURCING
Moreover, there’s a need for
manufacturers to demonstrate more
appetite for ‘independence model’.
Instead of relying solely on brands
and buying offices for directions,
manufacturers should showcase their
capabilities in quality management,
production timelines and compliance
management. This demonstration of
self-reliance adds significant value to
the supply chain, fostering stronger
partnerships between manufacturers
and brands. “In the existing system, a
representative from a brand or a buying
office visits the factory, overseeing
production and quality control full-time,
managing inspections. If manufacturers
can promise improved quality, adherence
to deadlines, and efficient compliance
management, it can significantly
enhance the value within the entire
supply chain,” says Rakhi Handa,
Consultant and former Senior MD,
Product Safety and Quality Assurance
at Target Sourcing Services.
India: Emerging as an
alternative to China
A combination of factors, including
supply chain disruptions, escalating
costs and apprehensions regarding
working conditions, has prompted
several Western fashion brands to
reconsider their age-old reliance on
Chinese factories.
Companies that had prepared to
navigate the lingering economic impact
of the pandemic and Russia’s conflict
in Ukraine now confront an additional
crisis. The recent outbreak of conflict
between Israel and Hamas underscores
the growing challenge of safeguarding
brands from frequent and unpredictable
global shocks, potentially causing
widespread disruption across the globe.
In this shifting paradigm, India stands
out as a beacon of opportunity for
sourcing, especially as companies adopt
China plus-one strategies to diversify
their manufacturing bases. India boasts a
distinct advantage-a youthful, Englishspeaking workforce. With approximately
65 per cent of its population below
Rakhi Handa
Consultant
the age of 35, the country possesses a
demographic dividend that can propel
Indian manufacturing.
According to Todd Simms, VicePresident, FourKites, a leading supply
chain intelligence platform, the days
of exclusive manufacturing in China
and shipping products worldwide are
waning. Disruptions have escalated
costs associated with delivering finished
goods, making it increasingly justifiable
for companies to explore operations in
new countries to enhance resilience.
“China has been good at servicing. But
if you look at things like co-creation,
Chinese suppliers always lag. I think
Indian suppliers always do better than
them. We've got a lot of strength. We
just have to make them work for us,”
says Arjun.
As global manufacturers expand their
horizons beyond China, the Indian
Government is also stepping up to
seize the moment by taking proactive
steps. This year, it announced the
establishment of 7 PM Mega Integrated
Textile Regions and Apparel (PM
MITRA) Parks in Tamil Nadu,
Telangana, Karnataka, Maharashtra,
Gujarat, MP and UP. This initiative
aligns with Prime Minister Narendra
Modi’s 5F vision (Farm to Fibre to
Factory to Fashion to Foreign).
Role of B2B Marketplaces
B2B marketplaces are speedily reshaping
the procurement landscape, sparking
a race amongst newcomers aiming
to revolutionise supply chains and
established players striving to maintain
their positions. The retail sector has
witnessed a surge in these platforms,
with over 40 B2B marketplaces
specifically catering to the apparel
industry emerging in recent years.
Unlike in the past, suppliers and buyers
no longer need to invest extensive time
and resources searching for each other
or worrying about order status and
financial transactions. This newfound
ease has become a significant advantage.
These platforms also offer reasonable
prices and quicker delivery times,
addressing the industry's pressing needs.
However, some industry insiders,
especially those deeply rooted in the
fashion ecosystem, express reservations
about the rise of B2B marketplaces.
The core concern voiced by sceptics lies
in the essence of these marketplaces
which is primarily to consolidate.
While they bring suppliers under one
digital roof, the depth of their service
offerings raises questions. Critics argue
that these platforms, in their pursuit
of providing a one-stop solution,
often overlook critical aspects of the
procurement process.
Delivery logistics, product quality,
design aesthetics, and most importantly,
intellectual property protection
are aspects that can’t be addressed
adequately within the confines of
these platforms, claims Devender
Gupta, Founding Partner, Asmara
International, a fashion company with
a worldwide sourcing platform and
GLOCAL expertise, focused on design
and product.
He further states, “The primary
problem with these B2B marketplaces
is that they fundamentally operate
as aggregators. Their main pitch is,
‘Come to our platform, and you can
find whatever you need to source.
We'll provide you with a single
solution for the product and its
price.’ However, critical aspects like
delivery, quality, design aesthetics
and even adequate IP protection are
often overlooked.”
December 2023 | AO India
39
MANUFACTURING//NEWS
www.apparelresources.com
Trade organisations enthusiastic about the
growth of textile and apparel industry
Irrespective of recent
downfall in Indian apparel
export, down sentiments for
textile business and unstable
situation due to war, trade
associations are upbeat that
situation will improve soon.
Indian apparel exporters’
national body, Apparel
Export Promotion Council
(AEPC), has set a target of
US $ 40 billion by 2030. In
a statement, the council said
that this target, named ‘40 by
30’, reflects Indian exporters’
commitment to reaching
new heights and pushing
limits in the ongoing decade.
Naren Goenka, Chairman,
AEPC said, “AEPC
is excited to share our
ambitious goal. ‘40 by
30’ is not just a financial
milestone; it’s a testament to
our potential and our vision
for the future.” He further
added that, “To reach this
target, we will need to focus
on isnnovation, expand our
market and product basket,
practice sustainability
and responsible business
practices, foster strategic
partnerships and empower
our people.”
It is worth mentioning here
that for the last almost seven
years, Indian apparel exports
have been stagnant at around
US $ 16 billion. Though
the Government’s major
initiatives — PLI Scheme
and PM MITRA Park —
are expected to increase
India’s apparel exports.
On the other hand, it is
being said that Indian textile
industry’s contribution to
the GDP will more than
40 AO India | December 2023
double in next 7 years. The
contribution of the textile
industry to the GDP will
more than double from 2.3
per cent to about 5 per cent
by the end of this decade.
The Gross Value Added
(GVA) is anticipated to
display a consistent annual
growth rate of 9 per cent
from 2021 to 2028.
Claiming so, a report named
‘Decadal Outlook for
Textile Industry: Threads of
Transformation for Textile
Industry’ by CII and Primus
Partners states that India’s
textile industry is targeting
a substantial US $ 250
billion milestone by 2030,
but it is also facing a variety
of challenges in supply
chain. The industry largely
comprises of MSMEs, is
highly fragmented, resulting
in suboptimal coordination
and resource utilisation.
Home textile industry’s top
companies are also expecting
growth in near future. Thanks
to an expected recovery in
demand conditions and
restocking by big retailers
from the US market to
realign their inventory levels,
ICRA, the rating agency,
expects its sample of four
leading home furnishing
companies to report a 7 to
8 per cent Y-o-Y increase in
revenues to Rs. 215 billion
for FY 2024.
The operating margins also
are set to improve by 250
to 350 bps in FY 2024 with
expected improvement in
revenues from Q2 of FY
2024 onwards with the
festive season.
It is being said
that Indian
textile industry’s
contribution to
the GDP will more
than double in
next seven years.
The four listed home textile
companies - Welspun,
Trident, Himatsingka and
Indo Count - account for
about 35 to 40 per cent of
India’s home textile business.
“We expect home textile
exporters to be on a road to
recovery, as restocking by
big retailers from the US
markets has started since
Q1 of FY 2024. Further,
as our channel checks
indicated, with the festive
orders coming in for Q2 of
FY 2024, the order book
position is estimated to have
improved for home textile
exporters,” said Kaushik
Das, VP and Co-Group
Head, Corporate Sector
Ratings, ICRA.
India’s home textile exports
reported a double-digit
decline of 18 per cent and
12 per cent in FY 2023 and
4M FY 2024 respectively,
amidst high raw material
expenses and energy
inflation, coupled with a
muted demand scenario in
the US and the EU markets.
The US remains the largest
market for Indian home
textile exports, with a 56 per
cent share in FY 2023 and
a 58 per cent share in 4M
FY 2024.
SNIPS
Mills in Andhra
Pradesh struggling
to survive
Deeply concerned
about the critical
situation facing the
textile industry in
Andhra Pradesh,
APTMA has raised its
voice and urged the
State Government
to take immediate
steps to support the
textile industry.
Arvind’s profit
down in Q2 of
2023-24
Arvind Ltd.’s second
quarter results have
been negative as its
earnings during Q2
for the financial year
2023-24 have seen
a profit of Rs. 80.01
crore, down by 36
per cent as against
Rs. 125.02 crore
during Q2 of FY ’23 .
Integrated textile
city in Ahmedabad
may take shape
in future
It has been reported
that Narol Textile
Infrastructure and
Enviro Management
(NTIEM) has decided
to set up the textile
city in Ahmedabad
as part of expansion
plans for the Narol
textile cluster. An
MoU can be signed
in this regard in the
next 2 months.
MANUFACTURING//NEWS
www.apparelresources.com
Important decisions for textile and
apparel industry
In recent days, the
government took few
important decisions for the
textile and garment industry
and the most important of
them was the revision of duty
drawback rates.
Cotton T-shirts now have
a drawback rate of 3.1 per
cent compared to 2.1 per
cent earlier, rates for manmade T-shirts have also
increased by 0.5 per cent.
Babies’ garments (blended
and cotton) have seen a little
increase. Regarding drawback
value cap per unit, there is
a significant revision, as for
babies’ garments, now the cap
The Government
has again extended
the date of inviting
fresh applications
under the PLI
Scheme up to 31st
December 2023.
is Rs. 29.4 which was earlier
Rs. 13, similarly in case of
blended babies’ garments,
earlier the cap was Rs. 6
which is now Rs. 12.5.
This revision has come after
more than three years as prior
to this, the last revision was
done on 28th January 2020.
The Department of Revenue,
Ministry of Finance has
issued a Notification recently
on revision of the drawback
schedule. This notification
shall come into effect from
30th October 2023.
The notification also says
that with respect to the
tariff items in Chapters
60, 61, 62 and 63 of the
said schedule, the blend
containing cotton and manmade fibre shall mean that
content of man-made fibre
in it shall be more than 15
per cent but less than 85 per
cent by weight and the blend
containing wool and manmade fibre should also have
man-made fibre content of
more than 15 per cent but
less than 85 per cent by
weight. The garment made
up of cotton or wool or manmade fibre or silk shall mean
that the content in it of the
respective fibre is 85 per cent
or more by weight.
The Government has again
extended the date of inviting
fresh applications under
the PLI Scheme up to 31st
December 2023. The Ministry
of Textiles (MoT) informed
that in view of the requests
from the industry stakeholders,
MoT earlier decided to
reopen the PLI portal till 31st
August 2023 for inviting fresh
applications from interested
companies under PLI Scheme
of Textiles for MMF Apparel,
MMF Fabrics and products
of Technical Textiles. The
Ministry has now decided
to extend the date of inviting
fresh applications under
the Scheme up to 31st
December 2023.
SNIPS
Gokaldas Exports
revenue down by
11 per cent in Q2
Gokaldas Exports
Limited witnessed
downfall in
revenue and profit
during the quarter
ended 30th
September 2023.
Guntur Textile
Park is struggling
to survive
Guntur Textile
Park of Andhra
Pradesh is now
losing its charm as
the overall industry
scenario is not in
the favour of textile
players and the
State Government’s
policies are not
as per industry
expectations.
Imported
knitted fabric
hurting growth
From April to August
2023, India imported
dyed knitted
fabrics valued at
US $ 276 million
(Rs. 2,270 crore)
predominantly
from China. Prabhu
Dhamodharan,
Convenor, ITF says
that the influx
of dyed knitted
fabrics is directly
impacting various
sub-sectors within
Tamil Nadu’s textile
manufacturing
industry, including
spinning, knitting
and processing.
December 2023 | AO India
41
SUSTAINABILITY
ORGANISATIONS HELPING IN
SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING
Sustainability in the fashion and
textile industry is a big thing in today’s
times. As such, there are many nongovernmental organisations which
not only talk about sustainability but
also actively help the industry move
forward with their sustainability
initiatives and provide services to
aid them. This includes providing
certifications, rankings and sharing of
essential knowledge. These industries
are also instrumental in actively
helping manufacturers, whether
that be through direct funding for
sustainability or via accreditation and
certification. We will explore some of
these renowned organisations.
Fashion for Good
Located in Amsterdam, Fashion for
Good is a global initiative to promote
and stimulate a sustainable and
responsible clothing industry. Its core
42 AO India | December 2023
is the ‘innovation platform’ where it
connects those working on sustainable
innovation with brands, retailers,
manufacturers and funders to bring
in new ideas and technologies. This
platform provides practical support to
innovators depending on their stage
of maturity.
The organisation’s ‘scaling programme’
supports market-ready innovators who
have passed the proof-of-concept phase
and are ready to scale their innovations
in the supply chain.
The organisation also has a Good
Fashion Fund which is the first
investment fund focused solely on
driving the implementation of innovative
solutions in the fashion industry.
Global Fashion
Agenda (GFA)
Global Fashion Agenda is a non-profit
organisation that fosters industry
collaboration on sustainability in
fashion to accelerate impact.
The organisation has been leading
a positive movement for the fashion
industry since 2009 and presents
the renowned international forum
on sustainability in fashion, Global
Fashion Summit, in core industry
regions around the world.
GFA influences policies through its
advocacy efforts including the Global
Textiles Policy Forum, publishes
articles on thought leadership
including The GFA Monitor, Fashion
CEO Agenda and Fashion on Climate,
implements impact programmes
including the Circular Fashion
Partnership and the Global Circular
Fashion Forum, presents educational
guidance through the GFA Academy
and connects companies with solutions
through the Innovation Forum.FAdepth analysis and reports based on the
SUSTAINABILITY
latest industry data, which can
help manufacturers stay up-to-date on
and teclogies.
Accelerating
Circularity Inc
Accelerating Circularity is a non-profit
that catalyses new circular supply chains
and business models to turn used textiles
into mainstream raw materials.
The organisation’s project focus is
on Feedstock Collection, Sorting,
Preprocessing, Chemical and Mechanical
Recycling and Yarn Spinning.
Its goals are on research to landscape
materials and players, standardise
grades for recycling inputs and inform
the circular model; aggregate data
and map a new circular supply chain
with a focus on specific end products;
outline missing links; and report on the
development of commercially viable
circular textile supply chains.
Accelerating Circularity Inc
The organisation’s data collection
and research on materials, grade
standardisation for recycling and
reports on the sustainable supply chains
can help manufacturers stay on track
with sustainability.
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange is a global nonprofit driving positive impact on
climate change and nature across the
fashion and textile industry. It guides
and supports a growing community
of brands, retailers, manufacturers,
farmers and others committed to
climate action toward more purposeful
production, right from the start of the
supply chain.
The organisation’s goal is 45 per cent
reduction in greenhouse gas from
fibre and raw material production
by 2030 in the fashion, textile
and apparel industry. To give the
fashion and textile industry a way
to authenticate their sustainability
claims from raw material to final
product, it has developed a set of
robust standards which help in
accreditation and certification.
Textile Exchange
Its strategic partners include Apparel
Impact Institute, Conservation
International, Fashion for Good,
Fashion Industry Charter for Climate
Action, Global Fashion Agenda,
Responsible Business Coalition,
Sustainable Apparel Coalition, The
Biodiversity Consultancy, The Fashion
Pact, The Policy Hub and ZDHC. e
organisation provides a scorecard for
members to measure sustainability
measures and also provides gap analysis
and an impact dashboard. Along with
this, edation and guidance on training,
one-on-one support from experts and a
materials summaries library.
Apparel Impact
Institute (AII)
AII identifies, funds, scales and
measures the apparel and footwear
industry’s proven environmental
impact solutions. It plays the
critical role of a technical
clearing house for partner brands,
manufacturers and philanthropic
donors, validating and aggregating
proven environment initiatives.
December 2023 | AO India
43
SUSTAINABILITY
Apparel Impact Institute is building
a US $ 250 million Fashion Climate
Fund (combining industry and
philanthropic sources) to unlock a total
of US $ 2 billion in blended capital
towards verified impact solutions,
thereby removing up to 150 million
tonnes of CO2 from the apparel supply
chain, with US $ 150 million kept to
benefit manufacturers.
AII’s stakeholders will widely adopt
proven impact solutions across
all tiers and interventions. The
organisation intends to partner with
financial capital to de-risk and scale
investment in proven clean energy
solutions and fund the development
of digital tools for transparent,
standardised impact reporting.
Good On You
Good On You is an organisation that
confers ratings to fashion brands based
on analysis of the sustainable and
ethical practices of said brands.
The organisation’s ratings technology
and independent analysts compile
and verify brands’ own public
reporting, the most robust thirdparty indices (like the Fashion
Transparency Index and CDP
Climate Change and Water Security
projects), as well as certifications and
accreditations (like Fairtrade, Fair
Wear Foundation, Cradle to Cradle,
OEKO-TEX Made in Green, Global
Organic Textile Standard or the
Responsible Wool Standard).
Using publicly available information, it
considers brands’ practices throughout
their entire supply chains, from
raw fibres to products’ end of use.
Altogether, the evaluation is done
using up to 1,000 data points across
more than 100 key issues and indicators
to arrive at each brand’s score.
The ratings consider People – how
well brands address their impacts
on workers across the supply chain;
Planet – brands’ environmental
policies being under check and reduced
greenwashing; Animals – From
rating cruelty-free and vegan fashion
to addressing animal welfare within
fashion’s supply chain.
These ratings are then given to various
players along the supply chain and help
in boosting sustainability efforts.
Centre for Sustainable
Fashion (CSF)
Centre for Sustainable Fashion is
a University of the Arts London
research, education and knowledge
exchange centre. The organisation
collaborates with universities,
businesses and other organisations
around the world to promote Fashion
Design for Sustainability as a field of
study, industry and education practice.
The organisation conducts research,
engages in participatory practice
with businesses, NGOs, government
agencies and other organisations
for knowledge exchange. It creates
courses and resources for LCF and
UAL students and for wider audience
through digital learning and supports
changes in policy and advocacy for
social and environmental justice.
The CSF Strategy (2020-25) has set
the direction for the next five years
with short and long-term aims and
Policy Hub
The Policy Hub (founded
in 2019) unites the apparel
and footwear industry to
propose policies that accelerate
circular practices. It consists
of five partner organisations
representing more than 500
stakeholders:
1. Sustainable Apparel
Coalition (SAC)
2. Global Fashion Agenda
(GFA)
3. Federation of the European
Sporting Goods Industry
(FESI)
4. Textile Exchange (TE)
5. Zero Discharge of Hazardous
Chemicals (ZDHC)
The Policy Hub’s vision is to
encourage an ambitious policy
framework to accelerate the
transformation of the apparel
and footwear industry towards
circularity. It focuses on:



Good On You
44 AO India | December 2023
guiding the industry
towards circularity
educating the industry
and the policymakers
cooperating and
facilitating policy
discussions
SUSTAINABILITY
objectives, a delivery plan and a
framework for accountability. It builds
on academic research, knowledge
exchange and educational practice
undertaken by CSF since the Centre’s
formation in 2008.
The centre’s research and participation
in businesses along with knowledge
exchange of the newest sustainability
practices and technologies is
shared with businesses for a better
sustainability process.
PoliticallyInFashion
Founded by entrepreneur Hilary
Jochmans, PoliticallyInFashion is a
community for all those in fashion –
designers, manufacturers, artisans,
retailers, models, lawyers, reporters,
consumers – to learn about legislative
and regulatory issues of key importance
in the industry.
The mission is to educate individuals on
public policy and empower them with
this knowledge; to then engage with
elected representatives on how these
issues impact companies and consumers.
Recent initiatives from
PoliticallyInFashion include
spearheading advocacy for the creation
of a Fashion Czar in the US and a
Call to Action for the Federal Trade
Commission to update the Green
Guides, a federal regulation designed
to assist businesses in making lawful
environmental marketing claims
and the public in understanding and
appreciating these statements. These
endeavours have been featured in
WWD, Marie Claire, British Vogue
and Fashionista, among others.
The organisation is instrumental
in educating businesses about the
regulatory practices in the industry
and how companies can educate
themselves on the legislations
practised in the industry.
Sustainable Apparel
Coalition (SAC)
Sustainable Apparel Coalition is
a leading alliance for sustainable
production in the apparel, footwear and
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC)
textile industry. The coalition develops
The Higg Index, a standardised value
chain measurement suite of tools for
all industry participants. The tools
measure environmental, social and
labour impacts across the value
chain. The SAC’s Higg Index
provides certifications to companies
and manufacturers.
SAC Strategic Councils are designed
to bring together a set of diverse
members on a regular basis in order to
discuss and consult on emerging issues
and provide input and guidance on
areas of strategic importance.
Member Expert Teams (METs) are
formed on an as-needed basis in order
to garner expertise where specific
and targeted member input is needed
regarding certain aspects of a Higg
Index Tool or SAC initiative.
Fashion Takes
Action (FTA)
Fashion Takes Action is a Canadian
non-profit organisation established in
2007 to advance sustainability in the
entire fashion system through education,
awareness, research and collaboration.
This is achieved through its industry
programs such as the annual WEAR
Conference, its work to advance
circularity, Employee Education
workshops and Sustainable Fashion
Toolkit. For citizens, a youth
education program ‘My Clothes My
World’ is offered.
Since 2014, the World Ethical
Apparel Roundtable (WEAR)
Conference has brought together
the entire fashion industry to
learn, network and collaborate. The
Sustainable Fashion Toolkit
Is a free online platform that features
hundreds of vetted, credible resources
from global organisations that have
been summarised and categorised. This
is an important time saving resource
that includes reports, guidelines,
standards, articles, podcasts, case
studies and more.
Cradle to Cradle Products
Innovation Institute
The organisation is instrumental in
providing a certification standard for
manufacturers to make cradle-tocradle apparel i.e. apparel that can be
effectively recycled after being used.
Across the value chain, Cradle to
Cradle Certified® is used to innovate
and optimise materials and products
according to the world’s most advanced
science-based measures.
The Cradle to Cradle Certified Product
Standard features two product cycle
pathways and five R-Strategies, offering
the opportunity to learn about circular
products, system methodologies and
related requirements.
December 2023 | AO India
45
SUSTAINABILITY//NEWS
www.apparelresources.com
Organisations collaborating with focus on recycling
As textile industry is focusing
on recycling in a big way,
various organisations are joining
hands to work together to
promote recycling.
are mobilising new technologies
into the supply chain, thereby
improving transparency,
traceability and efficiency, while
driving recycling. We are also
actively engaging with brands,
supply chains and government
bodies to foster industrywide transformation and a
sustainable future for India’s
fashion and textile sector.”
Despite India’s active textile
recycling industry, there is
tremendous untapped market
potential to scale recycling
initiatives and improve the
quality and commercial viability
of textile-to-textile recycled
products in the country.
Over the duration of the
collaboration, IDH will extend
subsidies to brands to facilitate
the onboarding of their supply
chains and offer training in
textile waste segregation.
The target is to onboard 520
manufacturing facilities, 65
recyclers and waste handlers
on the RR platform and
engage around 3500 factory
workers. The goal is to trace
approximately 50,000 metric
tonnes of segregated waste from
source to recycling by 2025.
Reverse Resources (RR) – a
SaaS platform for fashion
textile waste – and IDH have
partnered to revolutionise
India’s textile-to-textile
recycling industry.
While high-end recyclers
actively seek feedstock, a
significant portion of highquality textile waste continues
to flow towards low-value use
cases. Adding to the challenge,
brands are often left in the
dark about the fate of their
textile waste.
In response to these challenges,
RR says it is taking proactive
steps to address them. After
completing successful pilot
projects as part of Fashion for
Good’s ‘Sorting for CircularityIndia’ initiative, RR’s
collaboration with IDH aims at
expanding its presence in India.
This collaboration focuses
on harnessing the supply
networks of both domestic and
international brands operating
in India, with the intention of
revolutionising the way textile
waste is managed and recycled.
Jagjeet Singh Kandal, Country
Director (India), IDH,
commented, “It is a pivotal step
in addressing India’s textile and
apparel waste crisis. Through
RR’s innovative platform, we
46 AO India | December 2023
Ann Runnel, CEO and
Founder of Reverse Resources,
highlighted, “The fashion
industry is increasingly
discussing the importance of
data and digitisation. Circular
economy, with its systemic
complexity, cannot be scaled up
without a data-driven approach
to manage textile waste as
the strategic feedstock for the
industry in near future. This
project is not only about scaling
up textile-to-textile recycling,
it is also about creating a
backbone for the fashion and
textile industry to plan, develop
and verify the textile fibre flows
through the circular system of
the industry.”
SaXcell, a textile recycling
innovator, recently entered into
an MoU with Birla Cellulose,
an arm of India’s Aditya Birla
Group and one of the world’s
largest manufacturers of manmade cellulosic fibres.
Combining SaXcell’s innovative
textile waste pulping technology
with Birla’s advanced wet
spinning expertise, the
partnership aims to produce
high-quality sustainable fibres
under the name ‘SaXcell’. These
recycled fibres are tailored to
meet the circular textile needs
of customers on a commercial
scale, marking a significant
stride toward a more sustainable
and circular textile industry,
as highlighted in a joint press
release by Aditya Birla Group
and SaXcell.
Erik van der Weerd, CEO of
SaXcell, stressed on the urgency
of transitioning from a linear to
a circular economy within the
textile industry and expressed
optimism about the impact
this alliance could create.
“SaXcell’s and Birla’s combined
innovation force and production
power offer a great opportunity
to create real impact,” he said.
“Birla Cellulose is strongly
committed to support
innovators for expanding
circular fibre offerings in the
textile and non-woven value
chain. We have been exploring
innovative business models and
partnerships. This collaboration
is one such initiative, where we
aim to help SaXcell leapfrog
from pilot to commercial
demonstration scale. Such
partnerships will play an
increasingly important role in
accelerating circularity in the
global textile value chain,” said
Aspi Patel, Chief Technology
Officer, Aditya Birla Group and
Birla Cellulose.
SaXcell B.V., a technology
development company,
specialises in recycling used
textiles into feedstock for
sustainable man-made cellulosic
fibres. Birla Cellulose, a
leading player in sustainabilityfocused man-made cellulosic
fibres’ production, operates
12 sites globally, integrating
environmentally efficient
closed-loop technologies.
SUSTAINABILITY//NEWS
www.apparelresources.com
Coats Group PLC named as one of the world's
best workplaces
Coats Group PLC, the world's
leading industrial thread
manufacturer serving the
apparel and footwear industry,
has been named one of the
World's Best Workplaces
2023, a recognition bestowed
by Fortune and Great Place
To Work, which annually
select top 25 companies that
are dedicated to creating
exceptional workplace cultures.
This acknowledgment for
Coats highlights the company's
dedication to its people.
The World's Best
Workplaces award is based
on a comprehensive analysis
and surveys representing the
perspectives of 15 million
employees worldwide. This
evaluation not only delves
into employee sentiments
but also gauges the breadth
and impact of company
workplace programs.
At the heart of Coats' work
culture lie three foundational
pillars articulated by Rajiv
Sharma, Chief Executive
Officer at Coats Group.
“We are humbled and
proud to be recognised as
one of the top workplaces
worldwide. This achievement
is a testament to our
company's culture, employees
and leaders. Three pillars
underpin our culture. Firstly,
it’s about 'doing the right
thing', and this manifests
itself in ethics, integrity,
safety and sustainability. The
second pillar is 'customer
centricity', which gives us the
edge in serving customers
today and anticipating their
future needs. The third pillar
of our culture is 'family
environment'. This promotes
collaboration, sharing and
caring. It’s also the basis
for forging enduring longterm relationships with
stakeholders," commented
Rajiv.
It's worth noting here that
Coats Group operates across
more than 50 countries
with a diverse workforce
comprising over 18,000
employees conversant in over
100 languages. Coats takes a
global approach to valuing its
people. To ensure equitable
recognition, Coats introduced
the 'Applause' program in
2022, a standardised global
method that ensures all
employees receive equal
acknowledgment for their
contributions, regardless of
their geographic location.
Furthermore, the company
also launched its 'Coats for
All' initiative, dedicated
to fostering fair and equal
opportunities for development
amongst employees
worldwide, irrespective
of gender, age, disability,
race, religion or belief. This
commitment underscores
Coats' aim to maintain a safe,
diverse and inclusive work
environment across its global
operations.
SNIPS
Consultant appointed
to study Tamil
Nadu’s sustainability
requirements and
measures
The Central
Government has
appointed a consultant
to prepare a report on
the requirements and
measures taken up
by apparel and textile
units in Tamil Nadu
on ESG. A Tirupur
Exporters Association
delegation met
with Joint Secretary
Prajakta L Verma to
discuss the measures
being adopted by
Tirupur in this regard.
Primark,
CottonConnect and
RUDI coalition win
award
Primark,
CottonConnect
and RUDI, part of
the female farmers’
union Self-Employed
Women’s Association
(SEWA), have won
Partnership of the
Year for their coalition
to deliver the Primark
Sustainable Cotton
Programme (PSCP)
at the Reuters
Responsible Business
Awards 2023.
Recycling start-up
Recyc’ELIT secures €
3.2 million
Recyc’ELIT, a French
start-up that recycles
all types of complex
textiles and plastics,
has secured € 3.2
million in a fresh
round of funding.
December 2023 | AO India
47
TRENDS IN FOCUS//RUNWAYS
RUNWAY RECAP
UNVEILING THE ACCESSORIES, BAGS AND
FOOTWEAR TRENDS DEFINING S/S ’24
As the curtain falls on the Spring/Summer 2024 catwalk
season, it's an opportune moment to reflect on the
standout accessories that will undoubtedly leave an
indelible mark on next summer's fashion landscape.
The Spring/Summer 2024 sees innovation, revival
and unabashed expression juxtaposed to redefine
style in a compelling manner. This season, designers
and high fashion brands alike, have woven a tapestry
of trends that transcend the ordinary, presenting a
sartorial spectacle that captivates and challenges
conventional notions.
From the revival of nostalgic classics to the introduction
of daring accessories, the runways paint a vivid picture of
a season marked by versatility and bold experimentation.
The Soft Under Arm Bag emerges as a functional and
chic departure from mini-bag trends, offering a spacious
and understated elegance, while the Hobo Bag takes
centre stage, with its linear, rounded pragmatism
and varied styling choices, affirming its timeless and
adaptable appeal.
On the footwear front, The Ballerina gracefully pirouettes
back into the limelight, appearing flat, often adorned
with straps and captivating audiences with its diverse
interpretations at Akris, Balenciaga and Andreas
Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood.
Additionally, the Casual Pump disrupts the quiet luxury
48 AO India | December 2023
trend in ready-to-wear, adorned with spikes, faux fur
or textured materials. These pumps, showcased at
Bevza, Mugler and Carven, transcend mere footwear to
become collectible pieces that are as Instagrammable
as they are stylish.
The revival of early 2000s aesthetics is unmistakable
with The Choker or Choker Necklace making a bold
comeback, spotted on the catwalks of luxury labels like
Dior, Patou, Chanel and Givenchy. Its flashy, rocky or girly
variations perfectly align with the Y2K trend, showcasing
a fusion of nostalgia and contemporary flair.
Basics like Socks, once considered a subtle accessory,
have emerged this season as a niche trend, gracing the
runways of Zimmermann, Vaillant and Givenchy. Worn in
pastel shades or light denier black, knee-high socks pair
harmoniously with long skirts, slit skirts, or pencil skirts,
infusing outfits with a feminine, old-fashioned charm.
In Spring/Summer 2024, fashion beckons the bold and
the eclectic, inviting enthusiasts to embrace a diverse
array of trends that redefine the boundaries of style and
individual expression.
Apparel Online India takes stock of the diverse range
of trends, from the resurgence of pumps to the subtle
allure of stockings, the graceful charm of ballerinas and
the timeless and adaptable appeal of the hobo bag.
Read on to discover what you should be adding to
your assortments.
TRENDS IN FOCUS//RUNWAYS
THE SOFT
UNDER
ARM BAG
The Spring/Summer 2024 showcased
the prominence of the soft underarm
bag, a substantial departure from the
miniature bag craze that has been
sweeping the fashion scene since the
past few seasons.
The runways featured this spacious, and
at times, oversized handbag adorning
the arms of numerous silhouettes. In a
nod to practicality, this accessory, often
designed with a unisex appeal, addressed
the functional void left by the previous
mini-bag trend.
Crafted from supple leather or waxed
canvas, these bags typically ditch the
conventional use of handles. Instead, the
preferred styling involves wedging it to
the side, snugly positioning between the
arm and the hips.
Noteworthy depictions of the soft
underarm bag were noted at Miu Miu,
Rokh and Phillip Lim, underlining
its popularity across diverse fashion
collections.
THE HOBO
BAG
The hobo bag emerged as a notable
accessory trend during the Spring/
Summer 2024 international fashion
shows, making appearances at esteemed
fashion houses such as Hermès, Valentino
and Dion Lee.
Characterized by its linear, rounded
pragmatism, the hobo bag embodies an
easy-to-wear accessory style complete
with a classic and accommodating charm.
At Hermès, Chloé and Valentino, the
hobo bag's half-moon shape took centre
stage, often carried gracefully by hand.
In contrast, at Bottega Veneta and
Dion Lee, the trend was presented in
oversized proportions, stylishly worn on
the shoulder.
This versatile approach to styling
underscores the hobo bag's adaptability
to different preferences and occasions.
Having already established itself as a
trend in 2022, the hobo bag's enduring
popularity lies in its simple yet timeless
design, offering a safe haven for fashion
enthusiasts. Furthermore, its continued
presence on the runways affirms its status
as a steadfast and stylish choice for the
upcoming season.
December 2023 | AO India
49
TRENDS IN FOCUS//RUNWAYS
THE
BALLERINA
The resurgence of the ballerina continues
to captivate the fashion scene, evident in
its presence at notable fashion shows for
Spring/Summer 2024, including Akris,
Balenciaga and Andreas Kronthaler for
Vivienne Westwood.
This timeless footwear style is expected
to make a comeback for several seasons
and remains a prominent choice for
S/S ’24. The ballerina, typically flat and
often adorned with a strap, rivals the
practicality of trainers.
Diverse interpretations of this classic
style were showcased on the runways.
Luisaviaroma featured sharp and
metallic variations, while Balenciaga
embraced a powdery pink aesthetic.
Akris opted for a patent finish and
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne
Westwood presented a lace-like
rendition, highlighting the versatility
of the ballerina in adapting to various
styles and preferences.
The enduring appeal of this footwear
underscores its continued relevance and
prominence in the ever-evolving world
of fashion.
THE CHOKER OR
CHOKER
NECKLACE
The resurgence of the choker necklace,
reminiscent of the 2000s, made a strong
presence on the catwalks of renowned
luxury labels during the recently
concluded international fashion shows
for Spring/Summer 2024.
50 AO India | December 2023
This trend was notably observed at
fashion houses such as Dior, Patou,
Chanel and Givenchy.
The chokers showcased a diverse range,
from flashy and edgy to feminine,
perfectly aligning with the Y2K
aesthetic. Notable sightings of this
accessory trend at prominent designer
showcases emphasise its widespread
adoption by prominent designers and
make it a trend to look forward to.
TRENDS IN FOCUS//RUNWAYS
THE PUMP
The casual pump emerged as a striking
footwear trend during the recently
concluded Spring/Summer 2024
international fashion shows.
In contrast to the prevailing Quiet
Luxury trend in ready-to-wear, shoes
took centre stage as a disruptive
element, injecting a bold and dynamic
character into silhouettes. Luxury
brands embraced the opportunity for
extravagance, resulting in casual pumps
adorned with spikes, featuring faux
fur elements or crafted from textured
materials.
This season, prominent fashion players
such as Bevza, Mugler and Carven,
indulged in creative freedom, offering
pumps that transcend mere footwear
to become collectible pieces with
aesthetics that are equally captivating
on Instagram.
The casual pump has the ability to revive
classicism while incorporating avantgarde elements.
THE BROOCH
The brooch, once a classic accessory, has
experienced a revival for the upcoming
season, prominently featured at fashion
shows including Schiaparelli, Pedro Del
Hierro and Stella McCartney.
At Schiaparelli, Stella McCartney and
Chanel, the brooch has been granted
a second lease of life, emerging as a
key element to add vibrancy to both
formal and everyday outfits. Luxury
brands for S/S ’24 are embracing the
brooch not only for its formal elegance
but also for its artistic strength,
exploring its romantic potential and
versatile aesthetics.
In the Spring/Summer 2024 season, the
brooch comes in diverse forms, whether
XXL, floral, animal-inspired or abstract.
It manifests in various materials, ranging
from fabric to metal, allowing for a wide
spectrum of styles and expressions.
The brooch, with its renewed
significance, is making a strong
statement as a multifaceted accessory
that complements and enriches the
contemporary fashion landscape.
December 2023 | AO India
51
TRENDS IN FOCUS//RUNWAYS
SOCKS
Socks, one of the niche yet compelling
trends for the Spring/Summer 2024
fashion shows, notably featured at
Zimmermann, Vaillant and Givenchy.
This emerging trend possesses a
gripping appeal that can capture the
collective fashion consciousness.
The spotlight was on knee-high socks,
particularly in pastel shades or light
denier black. A revival of old-fashioned
charm was evident as these knee-highs
were expertly paired with long skirts,
skirts with slits or pencil skirts. The
result was a feminine and sophisticated
look that embraced both nostalgia and
contemporary style.
The incorporation of socks into the
ensemble, as witnessed at Zimmermann,
Vaillant and Givenchy, suggests a
nuanced and stylish approach to
accessorising for the upcoming season.
FLASHY EAR
ACCESSORIES
The Spring/Summer 2024 season
showcased a dazzling range of flashy
ear decorations, making a statement at
fashion shows such as Laruicci, Saint
Laurent and Zimmermann.
Earrings took centre stage with their
bold and eye-catching designs- often
oversized and predominantly in
52 AO India | December 2023
gold, these accessories infused the
silhouette with a joyful chic that exuded
confidence without any apologies.
Whether worn as a pair or as individual
pieces, these XXL earrings played a
pivotal role in elevating the overall
aesthetic of the ensemble. They served
as more than just accessories; they were
a deliberate and stylistic expression,
especially when paired with outfits that
leaned towards minimalism.
These flashy ear accessories emerge as
a dynamic and expressive trend for S/S
’24 , adding a touch of glamour and
playfulness to the fashion scene.
Uncrushed
Chinos
Designed to keep you uncrushed all day
long with a soft and smooth surface
100% premium cotton and synthetic
blend wrinkle free
Infused with ultra low temperature
liquid ammonia for that flawless feel
Engineered for revolutionary
appearance with all-day comfort
Crafted with extremely luxuriously
soft texture with unmatched easy care
Fabric Marketing Office: Auro Textiles, Sai Road, Baddi, Dist. - Solan, Himachal Pradesh - 173205, India
Corporate Office: Chandigarh Road, Ludhiana Punjab - 141010. India. Email: fabrics@vardhman.com
December 2023 | AO India
53
December 2023 | AO India
53
FASHION BUSINESS
ECO-PIONEERS
OF CHANGE
MEET THE CIRCULAR DESIGN CHALLENGE
CHAMPIONS REDEFINING SUSTAINABLE
FASHION ON A GLOBAL SCALE
The Circular Design Challenge (CDC),
now a fixture during fashion week each
season, was pioneered by RIL five years
ago with a visionary mission to instill a
sense of consciousness for sustainability
and circular practices throughout
every facet of the fashion industry. In
a dynamic collaboration between RIL,
the UN in India and Lakmé Fashion
Week, this initiative sought to champion
transformative ideals within the realm
of fashion.
Over the years, the Circular Design
Challenge has played a pivotal role
in propelling India’s fashion industry
towards eco-consciousness.
With the aim of giving a global platform
to fashion design talent across the
world, CDC announced, this season, its
worldwide expansion that culminated in
the latest season of Lakmé Fashion Week
x FDCI. Presented by R|Elan, the nextgen fabric brand by Reliance Industries
Limited (RIL), in association with the
United Nations in India, the CDC
focuses on cultivating eco-conscious
creativity within the fashion industry for
a greener and more sustainable future on
a global scale.
For half a decade, CDC has
identified and supported remarkable
winners who combine fashion with
environmentally friendly innovations.
Some past winners include I Was A
Sari, which upcycles discarded sarees
while empowering women artisans;
Malai Biomaterials Design, which
54 AO India | December 2023
The Circular Design
Challenge resonates
with the global Lifestyles
for Environment (LiFE)
movement, recently
endorsed by the G20.
The CDC and LiFE are
important threads in the
UN partnership tapestry
and we are thrilled that
the CDC is bringing its
message to the global
catwalk for the first time.
This reflects the centrality
of India as a leader in both
sustainable culture and
climate action. Where
India and its fashion
industry goes, the world
will increasingly follow.”
Shombi Sharp
UN Resident Coordinator, India
creates sustainable alternatives to
leather; Bandit, which masters the art
of upcycling various materials into
eco-cool products; and Pieux, which
focuses on recycled materials and
modular garment construction.
Having successfully become a
catalyst for change, this season saw
the CDC extending its competition
on a global scale across the UK, EU
and APAC regions and inviting
designers from around the world to
contribute to a more sustainable and
circular fashion future.
The design challenge places emphasis
on key sustainability parameters,
evaluating aspects like biodegradability,
durability and multi-functionality of
products. Expert jury members then
meticulously monitor factors such as
energy efficiency, closed-loop systems
and the ethical use of materials in
production and aim to ensure that social
and environmental impacts align with
one or more United Nations standards
of Sustainable Development Goals.
CDC’s global partners span borders,
with collaborations including the
British Council for the UK, Redress for
Hong Kong/Asia-Pacific and Istituto
Marangoni for the European Union.
This season saw Pei-Wen Jin from
Taiwan being announced as a finalist
from the APAC region, while the India
edition recognised ‘Studio Medium’ by
Riddhi Jain and Dhruv Satija, ‘Banofi’
+ ‘Studio Beej’ (Consortium) by Jinali
Mody and Arundhati Kumar, and
‘Without’ by Anish Malpani as the
three finalists.
During the UK Jury meet, Amesh
Wijesekera, a Sri Lankan designer
based in London, secured a spot in the
finals and Felipe Fiallo emerged as the
finalist from the EU jury meet.
FASHION BUSINESS
THE DESIGNERS/BRANDS
Equipped with
groundbreaking patentpending technology,
Without utilises discarded
Multi-Layered Plastic
(MLP) packaging to
manufacture high quality
materials, offering a
versatile array of ecofriendly products.
Anish Malpani
Without - INDIA
Amongst its innovations,
Without produces
sunglasses crafted from
repurposed chip packets,
emphasising on practicality
with features such as UV
polarisation, durability and
comfort. As an impactfocused start-up, Without
champions a guilt-free
consumption ethos by
promoting circular products.
The brand also plays a
pivotal role in enhancing
the livelihoods of waste
pickers, highlighting their
commitment to social
empowerment within
their innovative process.
PRODUCT
CATEGORIES,
PRICING AND
TARGET MARKET
“Our main product is world’s
first recycled sunglasses
made from plastic waste,
which is currently priced
at Rs.1500 and can be
customised as per consumer
preferences,” Anish Malpani,
Founder of Without, told
Apparel Online India.
The brand’s target market
comprises Gen Z and
millennials between the age
group of 25 and 35 years
based in Tier-1 cities of India.
“Our main idea is to reach
out to socially conscious
folks, who care about
sustainability and fashion.”
PRODUCTION
AND
MANUFACTURING
The brand conducts
its production and
manufacturing entirely
in-house. Plastic waste is
sourced locally from waste
pickers and the extraction
process is carried out
within the brand’s facilities.
Palettes are also locally
sourced. For the glasses,
lenses are typically
procured from suppliers
in China or India, while
hinges are sourced
from local distributors,
emphasising a combination
of local and international
collaborations within the
production process.
Commenting on the lead
times, Anish said, “If we
had to design a new pair,
then the process would
take somewhere around
three to six months
internationally. This would
involve the process of
sketching to the process of
manufacturing. However,
for our current style in the
market, our lead time is
a week.”
SOURCING
Since the primary raw
material for its products
is plastic waste, the waste
products are locally sourced
from Indian markets
to meet the growing
demand.
December 2023 | AO India
55
FASHION BUSINESS
and select offline stores, with a
nationwide reach across India.
Additionally, it offers global
shipping services.
At Banofi, the team operates
as a material science start-up
specialising in the creation of a
plant-based leather alternative
derived from banana crop
waste. The core product offering
consists of Banofi leather
panels, available in different
thicknesses, colours and
finishes, with prices ranging
between US $ 30 and US $ 45.
Jinali Mody and
Arundhati Kumar
Banofi + Studio Beej - INDIA
The brand caters to
individuals aged 20 to
45, appealing to a diverse
audience, particularly those
who prioritise environmentally
conscious choices.
Banofi’s products have garnered
a global appeal, resonating with
the international interest in
conscious fashion. Presently, the
majority of its clientele hails
from the UK, USA and India.
PRODUCTION AND
MANUFACTURING
Banofi, an innovative plantbased leather derived from
banana crop waste, seamlessly
aligns with the core values of
India-based Studio Beej, a
brand specialising in plantbased accessories.
Their collaborative collection,
Biparita, represents a
fusion of cutting-edge bio
research, traditional Indian
craftsmanship and a strong
commitment to climate
awareness. Deeply rooted in
Bengal, their home state, the
collection not only engages
with local craft communities for
product development but also
adheres to a vegan, cruelty-free
and circular ethos.
56 AO India | December 2023
PRODUCT
CATEGORIES,
PRICING AND
TARGET MARKET
At Beej, there are currently
two main categories: Fashion
and Lifestyle. In the Fashion
category, up on offer are
bags, wallets, belts and small
accessories. In the Lifestyle
category, the brand provides
products for home, travel
and gifting.
Beej’s primary market is in
India, catering to both men
and women aged between 30
and 50 years of age. The brand
sells its products online through
its website, channel partners
Beej operates its own design,
production and manufacturing
unit based in Mumbai,
handling the entire process
in-house. On the other hand,
Banofi also manages complete
production in-house but opts
for collaboration with other
design studios to give life to its
materials.
“In terms of lead time, at Beej,
we produce in small batches
and ship directly from our
studio in Mumbai. A design
can take anywhere between
three to five weeks to launch
online from the time we start
working on the idea. On the
other hand at Banofi, lead time
from raw material to a finished
Banofi panel takes four weeks,”
Jinali Mody and Arundhati
Kumar, said.
SOURCING
“At Beej, all our materials are
outsourced and we work with
a mix of plant-based leathers
as well as fabrics,” Jinali and
Arundhati explained adding,
“The plant-based materials
we work with are patented
and come from specific parts
of the world: Cork- Portugal,
Pinatex-Spain and MirumUnited States.”
Additionally, the brand
also works with a recycled
handloom material called khesh
that comes from the Birbhum
district of West Bengal and
a small weaver community
outside Bengaluru that uses
post-consumer recycled yarn to
make products.
Banofi, on the other hand,
relies on banana crop waste as
its primary raw material. The
banana plant, being a perennial
crop, generates abundant
crop waste both in India and
globally. The brand sources
its raw material from over 30
smallholder farmers in India.
STRATEGIES TO
CAPTURE ONLINE
DEMAND
“At Beej, a large part of what
we do is building consumer
awareness and that we do
through our social media
channels, videos, interviews
etc. We also do performance
marketing, typically using
Google and the Meta platform
to reach out to new buyers.”
the duo said.
Considering the limited
availability of alternatives in
its marketing channels, Banofi
primarily relies on LinkedIn,
Instagram Direct Messages and
email marketing for boosting its
online demand.
FASHION BUSINESS
At Studio Medium, the
essence of Bandhani is
ingrained within its brand
identity. Acknowledging the
substantial waste generated
by this technique in the form
of thread waste and textile
offcuts, Studio Medium has
devised a template solution
that allows it to transform
significant quantities of
silk offcuts and discarded
cotton yarns into textiles and
garments for future use.
Riddhi Jain
Studio Medium - INDIA
The result is a collection of
enchanting apparel and home
textile pieces that serve as a
testament to the idea of how
inventive design is the key to
the future of zero waste.
PRODUCT
CATEGORIES,
PRICING AND
TARGET MARKET
The brand operates within two
distinct categories, offering
both womenswear and
menswear. Its apparel range
is priced between Rs. 24,500
and Rs. 75,000 with the target
market comprising High Net
Worth Individuals (HNIs)
from both India and abroad.
The brand primarily caters
to individuals aged between
30 to 70, with a focus on
customers located in India,
the United States, United
Kingdom and the
European Union.
PRODUCTION
AND
MANUFACTURING
Studio Medium manages
its production and
manufacturing in-house.
However, given its
specialisation in working
with textile and yarn discards
resulting from the tie and
dye process, the brand
collaborates with artisans
across Gujarat and Rajasthan.
These artisans play a crucial
role in collecting the
discards and forwarding
them to the brand.
Looking ahead, the brand’s
long-term strategy involves
establishing production and
manufacturing units directly
at the source of this preconsumer waste, thereby
streamlining and enhancing
the sustainability of the
production process.
Commenting on the lead
times for the products,
Riddhi said, “The design
process to sampling takes
about four months. Once the
samples are ready and locked,
production takes about three
to four weeks.”
SOURCING
“We primarily work in
handwoven silk from Bengal.
For this collection, we have
extended our vocabulary to
handwoven denim, kota doria
as well as factory surplus
cotton. The handwoven silks
are commissioned by us to
the weavers and they are
woven as per our designs,”
Riddhi explained.
Studio Medium procures
additional textiles from
major vendors located in
Kolkata, Bengaluru and
Chandni Chowk. In certain
instances, especially for
specific surface techniques,
the brand maintains a close
collaboration with artisans
situated in Kutch, Gujarat.
This approach ensures a
diverse and well-sourced
selection of textiles while
fostering partnerships with
artisans for specialised
techniques.
December 2023 | AO India
57
FASHION BUSINESS
exclusive pieces like jackets and
coats are towards a higher range
of around € 300-400 plus.
“Our target market is
predominantly in Europe,
America and in the South
Asian region. In terms of age,
we cater to the age group of
28 to 45 because we cater
to a seasonless, genderfluid wardrobe,” Amesh
Wijesekera highlighted.
PRODUCTION AND
MANUFACTURING
Amesh Wijesekera
UNITED KINGDOM
Everything within the brand is
meticulously designed, crafted
and sourced in Sri Lanka. The
artisanal textiles, a showcase
of skilled craftsmanship,
are exclusively made in Sri
Lanka by diverse communities
spanning the entire island.
The brand primarily
collaborates with weaving
communities and artisans
specialising in knitting
and crochet. Notably, the
manufacturing process
for clothing is entrusted
to women-led Small and
Medium Enterprises (SMEs),
contributing to a diverse and
empowered workforce.
Based in London, Amesh
Wijesekera is a Sri Lankan
designer who collaborates with
skilled craftspeople across the
island, particularly engaging
with artisan communities
specialising in knitwear, crochet
and handloom.
As a semi-finalist for the
LVMH prize, Amesh takes a
diligent approach by working
with surplus fibres from
factories in an effort to close
the loop on clothing waste
within Sri Lanka and offering
support to an industry that has
historically been associated
58 AO India | December 2023
with unethical practices and
mistreatment of craftspeople.
PRODUCT
CATEGORIES,
PRICING AND
TARGET MARKET
Amesh Wijesekera essentially
works with artisanal and
non-artisanal materials which
include ready-to-wear and
bespoke exclusive items. Readyto-wear products include pieces
like shirts, trousers, shorts, that
range from € 100 and upwards
whilst artisanal products range
from upwards of € 300. Its
“Because we work very handson, everything is made in
Sri Lanka locally and we are
still a small brand. However,
when we do have interest
from buyers, it usually takes a
minimum of three months for
the entire process – production,
development and shipping,”
Amesh explained.
SOURCING
The brand predominantly
utilises materials such as
cotton, cotton blends and wool.
Notably, a significant portion
of the wool used is sourced
from deadstock materials
in Sri Lanka. Given the
country’s substantial apparel
manufacturing industry,
there is often an abundance
of leftover textiles, trims and
materials that typically find
their way into landfills or
second-hand street markets.
The brand strategically acquires
these discarded textiles
from such sources and, in a
sustainable approach, imparts
them with a renewed value.
Through various processes like
printing, embellishments and
washing treatments, the brand
enhances and transforms these
materials, giving them a second
life and contributing to a more
sustainable fashion cycle.
Commenting on the same,
Amesh said, “Because I
come from a textile design
background, we make our own
materials, everything is made
bespoke for the brand. In terms
of raw materials and textiles,
all the primary textiles, the
artisanal textiles are handwoven,
hand-knitted or crocheted
in Sri Lanka and all our
secondary textiles come from
pre-consumer waste from the
garment district.”
STRATEGIES TO
CAPTURE ONLINE
DEMAND
Something that has worked
well for Amesh and his
namesake label is their
storytelling ability, especially
in terms of how they do
their photoshoots, editorials
and campaigns.
“I think consumers are
more receptive to this
communication as opposed to
product first information and it
really encourages them to be a
part of this whole community
movement and it has been
doing really well for us,”
Amesh said.
FASHION BUSINESS
embraces and promotes
ecological principles.
PRODUCT
CATEGORIES,
PRICING AND
TARGET MARKET
FELIPE_FIALLO® is a
bio-digital couture footwear
brand based in Milano with
a Latin American spirit. The
brand encompasses three
primary lines: Bio-couture,
Phygital Luxury and Readyto-Wear, targeting a price
range spanning from € 475
to € 1200.
Felipe Fiallo
EUROPEAN UNION
Catering to individuals aged
22 to 38, FELIPE_FIALLO®
caters to both men and
women. The brand’s focal
markets include Europe,
Asia and India, with its
headquarters situated in
Milan, Italy.
PRODUCTION
AND
MANUFACTURING
Production and
manufacturing for the
brand are carried out
in collaboration with a
partner network across
Europe, specifically in Italy,
Germany, Portugal and the
Netherlands. Additionally,
the brand collaborates with
indigenous communities in
Ecuador for certain aspects of
the production process.
Felipe, an Ecuadorian
national residing in Italy, is
revolutionising the luxury
footwear sector by seamlessly
integrating digital fabrication,
sustainability and style.
Guided by the principles
of biomimicry, his design
approach harmoniously blends
technology and craftsmanship
to produce exceptionally
innovative footwear.
With a focus on regenerative
design, Felipe is deeply
respectful of the environment
and actively advocates for
cradle-to-cradle practices.
Through his work, he
envisions a more sustainable
fashion industry that
Some biomaterials, such as
crystal growing, are skillfully
crafted in-house in Milano.
“From the footwear design
process, prototyping,
material innovation,
sampling and sales campaign
to the warehouse, we take
six months,” Felipe told
Apparel Online India, adding,
“We launch two collections
yearly with two capsules for
experimental drops.”
SOURCING
“Our materials are a mix of
both. For our bio-couture
line, we are creating our own
bio-materials like mushroom
leather, grown crystals
and algae between Italy
and Netherlands,” Felipe
explained.
The brand sources various
materials from local producers
and warehouses in Italy.
Currently, the primary
production areas, depending
on the specific product lines,
include Veneto, Tuscany and
the South of Italy. There is an
ongoing initiative to establish
a network of local hubs for
each target market, aiming to
champion local production
and foster innovation within
those regions.
STRATEGIES TO
CAPTURE ONLINE
DEMAND
FELIPE_FIALLO
maintains a robust offline
presence, particularly during
significant fashion events
such as London and Milan
Fashion Weeks. These events
generate substantial traction,
positively impacting the
brand’s online visibility.
At the moment, FELIPE_
FIALLO’s main digital
channels are Instagram and
LinkedIn where the brand
shares news and product
updates. It is also working on
its own e-commerce platform
to offer a more personalised
service to its clients. For its
phygital items, the brand is a
part of The SYKY Collective,
a first-of-its-kind digital
fashion platform, for fashion
lovers and WEB 3 explorers.
December 2023 | AO India
59
FASHION BUSINESS
determined during the design
phase, Pei Wen firmly believes
that for designers, prioritising
sustainability in every decision
is essential for fostering
an industry that coexists
harmoniously with nature.
PRODUCT
CATEGORIES,
PRICING AND
TARGET MARKET
The Tangram by Pei Wen Jin
is a modular fashion concept
that represents a practical
DIY approach for creating a
circular wardrobe. Customers
can disassemble their clothes
into modules and reassemble
them into various styles using
a very simple action. The
brand targets 20 to 45 year
olds who love DIY and enjoy
creating various styles.
Pei Wen Jin
ASIA-PACIFIC
“Our modular clothing can
be purchased individually as
single modules, or customers
can buy a kit, allowing them
to follow the instructions to
assemble different clothing
and accessories, much like
playing with Lego to create
their own style,” Pei Wen Jin
told Apparel Online India in an
exclusive interview.
Dedicated to mastering the
craft of zero waste design for
a circular future, Pei Wen is
at the forefront of sustainable
innovation. Holding patents
for her modular zero-waste
pattern invention and
pioneering design techniques
in Taiwan, she stands out as a
trailblazer.
60 AO India | December 2023
Furthermore, her acclaimed
collection, ‘Tangram Club,’
secured the runner-up position
in the prestigious Redress
Design Awards 2021, the
world’s largest sustainable
fashion design competition.
Recognising that over 80
per cent of a product’s
environmental impact is
Pei Wen Jin provides a diverse
array of price points determined
by the materials employed,
with The Tangram kits retailing
from US $ 85 onwards. Having
recently secured a patent this
year, its designs are currently in
the market development phase,
with aspirations to
make them accessible to
international consumers.
PRODUCTION AND
MANUFACTURING
Currently, the brand’s in-house
team produces all its products
internally. However, it is on the
lookout for collaborations with
various fabric suppliers or fabric
brands to launch limited edition
collections.
In terms of lead times, the
time from placing an order to
shipping can range from two
weeks to one month for regular
consumers. However, Pei Wen
Jin also aims to collaborate with
various fabric material suppliers
to develop a more diverse range
of The Tangram modules. Such
collaborative development, from
design discussions to shipping,
may take anywhere from three
months to half-a-year.
SOURCING
So far, Pei Wen Jin has been
sourcing waste materials
locally, primarily purchasing
surplus fabrics from garment
factories. This approach not
only supports environmental
sustainability but also allows it
to offer more affordable price
ranges to consumers.
However, “our modular concept
can also be applied to luxury
fabrics to create exquisite styles.
Through the CDC, we had
the opportunity to explore
the intricate craftsmanship in
India and we are very eager to
collaborate with India’s local
craftsmanship,” Pei explained.
STRATEGIES TO
CAPTURE ONLINE
DEMAND
Currently, the brand utilises
social media, primarily
Instagram, as a platform
for online marketing where
it shares short videos
demonstrating how to easily
create everyday styles. It
also actively participates in
international competitions and
fashion weeks, showcasing The
Tangram’s limitless potential,
ranging from simple to intricate
haute couture clothing designs.
FASHION BUSINESS
THE WINNERS
up, was awarded funding
worth Rs.5 lakh. Both the
winner and runner-up will
be under the mentorship
of Orsola de Castro,
Co-founder of Fashion
Revolution and Creative
Director of Estethica.
The Circular Design
Challenge serves as a
testament to the potential
of collaboration among
industry players, the
fashion eco-system and
multilateral organisations
like the United Nations.
This alliance has proven
to be a catalyst for
transformative change,
steering the fashion
industry towards circularity
and sustainable practices.
The initiative aligns
seamlessly with the
principles outlined in
Mission LiFE (Lifestyle
for Environment) as
announced by the Prime
Minister of India,
Narendra Modi.
Since 2018, CDC
champions are selected
through an annual
competition, judged by
captains of the industry
and the United Nations
India teams. The jury for
the final contest comprised
Atul Bagai, Country
Head, United Nations
Environment Programme’s
(UNEP) India Office;
Christine Goulay, Founder,
Sustainabelle Advisory
Services, Ex-Head of
Sustainable Innovation,
Kering Group; Aditi Mayer,
Sustainability Activist and
Photojournalist; and Rahul
Mishra, Fashion Designer.
The winner, Anish
Malpani, secured funding
amounting to Rs.15 lakh,
the prestigious CDC
trophy and a six-month
mentorship program.
Additionally, Anish earned
the opportunity for a
stand-alone showcase at
Lakmé Fashion Week in
partnership with FDCI,
scheduled for March 2024.
Felipe Fiallo, the runner-
Talking about Mission
LiFe, Chief Guest,
Honourable Minister of
State for External Affairs
and Culture, Meenakshi
Lekhi said while addressing
the audience, “Each one has
a responsibility, and each one
has to participate and each
one needs to practice, and not
just preach, be part of Mission
Life. The intention is to
increase positivity and work
towards finding solutions,
because that’s the very Indian
way of finding solutions,
taking the middle path
between the two extremes.”
December 2023 | AO India
61
DESIGNERS & LABELS
FROM CLUSTERS
TO COUTURE
FIVE POINT FIVE’S SAREE ODYSSEY CHAMPIONING INDIA’S WEAVES
In a vibrant tapestry of tradition and
contemporary elegance, homegrown
label Five Point Five emerges as a
quintessential celebration of India’s rich
textile heritage. Specialising exclusively
in the resplendent world of sarees, the
label’s name itself, Five Point Five, is
a nod to the standard length of this
iconic garment.
Dedicated towards preserving and
promoting India’s diverse weaving
traditions, Five Point Five aims to unite
the country’s skilled weavers and artisans
on a single platform. Every piece in its
collection is a direct reflection of the
62 AO India | December 2023
Five Point Five aims
to bring the exquisite
weaves of India together
on one platform. All its
products are directly
sourced from the
weavers and artisans of
various clusters, across
the country.
skill and artistry rooted in India’s diverse
cultural heritage and is sourced directly
from the hands of talented artisans
hailing from various clusters across India.
Nitin Singla and Radhika Jain, the
dynamic duo behind the inception of
Five Point Five, embarked on their
fashion journey in 2010 at the National
Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
in New Delhi. While Radhika delved
into the domain of Fashion Design,
Nitin focused on Knitwear Design and
serendipity brought them together in
the same foundational batch. Their
educational pursuits continued with
both obtaining Master’s degrees in
International Fashion Business from
DESIGNERS & LABELS
“In a world where many
brands emphasise unique
designs, often relying on
techniques like appliqué,
embellishment and
embroidery, we’ve made
a conscious choice to
highlight the essential base
weave that serves as the
foundation of each saree.
It’s the weave that anchors
the artistry and we believe
it should be celebrated and
not obscured.”
Nitin Singla
Co-Founder of Five Point Five
Nottingham Trent University in the
United Kingdom.
After completing their Master’s
degrees, Nitin assumed the position
of Manager - Communications and
Digital at the Fashion Design Council
of India (FDCI), while Radhika
became a Lecturer in the Fashion
Styling department at Pearl Academy.
Over a period of seven to eight years,
they amassed extensive industry
expertise. However, it was during the
second lockdown in 2022 that the
seeds of a transformative idea sprouted
within Nitin and he committed himself
entirely to the establishment and
growth of Five Point Five and Radhika
too shifted her career trajectory, taking
on the role of Marketing Manager with
the Centre of Excellence for Khadi
(CoEK) at NIFT, New Delhi.
Their journey underscores the dynamic
duo’s steadfast dedication and shared
passion for championing the rich
heritage of Indian textiles via Five
Point Five.
“At Five Point Five, we believe that
every saree tells a story and carries a
piece of India’s rich heritage. We are
dedicated to providing a platform for
saree enthusiasts to explore and celebrate
this timeless garment in all its glory,”
Nitin Singla, Co-Founder of Five
Point Five told Apparel Online India in
an exclusive interview.
PRODUCT ASSORTMENT,
PRICING AND TARGET
MARKET
As per Nitin, “Five Point Five is all
about sarees. As the name implies, the
label is predominantly dedicated to
saree as its flagship product, featuring a
diverse array of weaves sourced from the
weaving hubs of Banaras and Kolkata
that mark the beginning of our journey.
These exemplify our premium range
and are available for exclusive personal
viewing through our innovative ‘Saris on
Wheels’ concept.”
Five Point Five’s website features a wide
range of products with prices ranging
from Rs. 3,000 to Rs. 15,000, ensuring
that there’s a saree for every budget and
occasion. For those seeking something
truly extraordinary, the label also offers a
premium range that extends up to Rs.1
lakh, making it possible for enthusiasts to
discover and indulge in a saree that’s not
just a piece of clothing but a work of art!
“At Five Point Five, our products are
thoughtfully crafted to embrace women
of all ages, spanning from 18-yearolds and beyond. We believe that the
saree’s grace and charm are ageless
and its appeal knows no bounds,”
Nitin explained, highlighting that the
collection is curated to celebrate the
beauty and individuality of women
across generations.
In terms of geographical reach, the label
has managed to reach a diverse and
widespread audience in a short span of
December 2023 | AO India
63
DESIGNERS & LABELS
Five Point Five’s
website showcases
a diverse product
range priced from
Rs.3,000 to Rs.15,000,
ensuring options for
every budget and
occasion. For those
who seek something
exceptional, the label
presents a premium
collection reaching up
to Rs. 1 lakh, inviting
enthusiasts to explore
sarees that transcend
clothing, evolving into
captivating works of art.
time, both on a national and international
scale. The brand has resonated with saree
enthusiasts in locations such as Delhi,
Maharashtra, Karnataka, Chennai,
Rajasthan, Punjab as well as in countries
like Qatar, USA and Australia.
“This global recognition and appreciation
of products highlight the universal appeal
of the saree and its ability to connect
64 AO India | December 2023
people from different corners of the
world. We are committed to continuing
this journey of promoting the saree’s
timeless allure and showcasing India’s
rich textile heritage to a global audience,”
Nitin added.
TECHNIQUES AND
DETAILS
Over the course of many years
dedicated to the study and practice of
fashion, both Radhika and Nitin have
consistently held Indian weaves and
textiles in the highest regard. These
elements form the narrative of the
brand and underpin its core philosophy,
which revolves around the restoration
of the intrinsic value of weaves.
Commenting on the same, Nitin said, “In
a world where many brands emphasise
unique designs, often relying on
techniques like appliqué, embellishment
and embroidery, we’ve made a conscious
choice to highlight the essential base
weave that serves as the foundation of
each saree. It’s the weave that anchors
the artistry and we believe it should be
celebrated and not obscured.”
Furthermore, Five Point Five aims to
provide a range of sarees that showcases
the beauty of the most revered
and explored weaves after carefully
understanding the preferences of their
audience and the market demand for
simplicity and understated elegance.
The label aspires to present designs that
are not only visually appealing but also
honour the craftsmanship and artistry
of these weavers. In doing so, it hopes to
contribute to the revival and appreciation
of these timeless textiles, ensuring
that they continue to be treasured for
generations to come.
MANUFACTURING AND
SOURCING
Incepted in January 2023, Five Point
Five started off with a relatively small
but dedicated team, comprising 5-7
individuals, who have been privileged
enough to collaborate with 20-25 skilled
weavers located in and around the vibrant
weaving hubs of Banaras and Kolkata.
Commenting on the same, Radika said,
“This partnership is at the heart of our
mission and it enables us to bring the
finest handcrafted sarees to our cherished
customers. It not only allows us to source
DESIGNERS & LABELS
our products directly from the talented
weavers but also aids in preserving and
promoting the age-old art of weaving.”
In future, the label plans to move to other
states, in an effort to add more weaves
under the brand umbrella.
MATERIALS AND
FABRICS
Five Point Five’s saree collection
encompasses a rich variety of fabrics,
including kora, tissue, silk, tussar,
chanderi, cotton and linen, offering a
broad spectrum of choices to suit all saree
enthusiasts’ tastes and preferences.
In addition to their regular offerings,
the label also takes immense pride in
presenting some truly exceptional pieces
that showcase heavy Banarasi weaving
and intricate surface embellishments to
create one-of-a-kind pieces.
RANGE PLANNING AND
REPLENISHMENT
“Since our inception, we have proudly
introduced four distinctive collections,
each tailored to specific editions and
aligned with the spirit of the festive
season. These collections serve as
a testament to our commitment to
offering unique and seasonally relevant
saree designs and we are excited to
continue this tradition by unveiling more
Five Point Five’s saree
collection includes
various fabrics like
kora, tissue, silk, tussar,
chanderi, cotton and
linen, catering to diverse
tastes ensuring there
is something for every
saree enthusiast and
individual preference.
captivating collections in the future,”
Nitin explained.
The label works on a format that allows
them to restock their collections every
two months, and in case of more sales,
especially during festivities, even on a
monthly basis.
INTEGRATING
SUSTAINABLE AND
ETHICAL PRACTICES
Sustainability is a multifaceted concept
and Five Point Five is deeply rooted
in this philosophy. “Our approach to
sustainability encompasses various
aspects. In the initial stage, we are
committed to ensuring that the sarees
we source are obtained at a fair price,
which in turn provides artisans with
the deserved value for their craft, thus
sustaining their livelihoods. In addition
to this, we have adopted environmentally
conscious practices,” Nitin expounded.
The brand’s small yet impactful
initiatives extend to packaging where
a focus is placed on reusing materials.
Opting for alternatives such as paper
and fabric instead of plastic, Five
Point Five actively contributes to the
reduction of plastic waste, aligning
with its commitment to minimising
environmental impact.
LOOKING AT THE
FUTURE
“Our brand is rooted in a deep and
unwavering commitment to saree as an
absolute and comprehensive product.
While we have made remarkable
progress in this line, we acknowledge
that there is still so much left to explore.
The world of sarees is rich and diverse,
offering a multitude of textiles, drapes
and weaves and we are excited to embark
on this journey of endless possibilities,”
Nitin highlighted.
He further added, “We look forward to
continued exploration and innovation
within the realm of the saree, ensuring
that we provide our customers with the
finest, handcrafted sarees that celebrate
the artistry of Indian textiles and
weaving traditions.”
The saree is a remarkable garment with
a storied past. It has evolved over time,
with various techniques of making it
and diverse draping styles, making it
truly incredible.
Each saree carries its own unique
story and often evokes memories of
loved ones. Whether it’s your mother’s
cherished saree or the nostalgic
sentiment of your grandmother, sarees
are treasured heirlooms passed down
through generations.
For Five Point Five, sarees are more than
just a piece of clothing - they are an
enduring symbol of tradition and culture.
“We firmly believe in the enduring
allure of the saree and it will always
have a place in every wardrobe. With
great enthusiasm, we are curating the
Five Point Five Sari Library, aiming to
make the finest weaves accessible to our
audience. Our journey is just beginning
and we look forward to sharing this
iconic garment’s rich heritage with
all those who appreciate its timeless
elegance,” Nitin said.
Five Point Five currently retails its
products via its own website www.
fivepointfive.in that features the brand’s
entire online collection as well as a few
exclusive pieces from its premium range.
Apart from that, the label can also be
found at multi-designer stores such as
Aza, Ogaan, Ensemble and Fuel.
December 2023 | AO India
65
DESIGNERS & LABELS
AOI: What unique business strategies have you implemented to stand
out in the highly competitive womenswear industry?
abroad, are embracing sarees for their special day, reaffirming its
enduring appeal.
NS: During our initial research phase, we recognised the
abundance of saree brands in the market which posed a
challenge for us to establish a distinctive identity.
We have great confidence in Five Point Five’s ‘Sari on Wheels’
concept. This unique initiative allows us to personally showcase
our premium saree collection to customers, offering them the
convenience of shopping from the comfort of their homes.
However, this realisation also led us to the understanding that
there exists an audience that lies between mass-market saree
brands and high-end designer saree labels. With this in mind,
we devised a comprehensive plan that divides our approach
into two main segments: online and personal shopping. For
our online platform, we envisioned a clean and user-friendly
shopping website that we fondly refer to as our ‘Sari Library’.
This platform is designed to be an inclusive hub, where we
continually add the exquisite weaves of India as we explore
them. The primary objective is to bring the diverse weaves of
India under one digital roof.
All the products featured on our website are directly sourced
from the skilled weavers and artisans located in various clusters
across the country, ensuring the authenticity and quality of each
saree. In addition to our online presence, we introduced the
concept of ‘Sari on Wheels’ for personal shopping. This concept
is inspired by our initial visit to Banaras and the nostalgic tales
we’ve all heard about the days when merchants, known as
pheriwalas would visit homes. These sellers offered a unique
shopping experience, especially during weddings when families
would come together to select their cherished sarees.
We aim to recreate this personalised and intimate shopping
experience. To access ‘Sari on Wheels,’ you can simply book
an appointment with us on our website and we will bring our
premium saree collection directly to your home.
Each trunk of sarees is carefully curated and consists of exclusive
handwoven pieces that we have personally hand-picked from
the weavers. These sarees are one-of-a-kind and can be regarded
as collectibles for saree enthusiasts, much like a collection of
paintings by artists.
AOI: What, according to you, is driving consumption in fashion
categories in the Indian market?
NS: The wedding and festive culture in India is undeniably
significant and the spending potential in such occasions
continues to grow with each passing year.
This trend is not limited to India alone; it has also been
observed in the international market. The Indian diaspora is
spread across the globe and expanding, contributing to the
global demand for Indian ethnicwear.
The statistics speak for themselves, with approximately 3.2
million weddings taking place in India between November
and December last year. Furthermore, the growing influence
of Indian fashion has been evident on the global stage. Events
like NMACC have drawn celebrities who enthusiastically
endorse and promote the saree trend. Brides, both in India and
66 AO India | December 2023
As we gain traction and our brand continues to grow, we are
well-prepared to accelerate the expansion of this innovative
approach. Our aim is to cater to the evolving needs of our
customers and make saree an even more accessible and
celebrated choice for various occasions, be it weddings or
festivals, both in India and globally.
AOI: What do you have to say about the consumer’s shift in perception
from quantity to quality?
NS: The principle of prioritising quality over quantity is central
to our brand’s identity and it has proven to be a favourable
approach for Five Point Five. In a market saturated with
numerous brands across different product categories, many
focus on producing in large quantities.
However, it is only a select few that genuinely emphasise on
quality. It is the customer who has the discerning ability to
identify and appreciate quality and, in doing so, they play a
pivotal role in evaluating and endorsing a brand’s product.
Taking into account the feedback we’ve received thus far,
Five Point Five has been successful in establishing a positive
reputation in the market. We are pleased to note that our
commitment to quality is resonating with our customers and
their reviews and feedback are invaluable in shaping our brand’s
identity and ensuring that we continue to provide the level of
quality that they deserve and expect.
AOI: What inspired you to come up with the name Five Point Five for
your label?
NS: The process of naming the brand was a journey in itself. We
explored numerous versions, considering typical synonyms
of saree, or words that evoke the essence of draping, wearing,
elegance and flawlessness. However, our overarching goal was to
have a brand name that speaks for itself, requiring no additional
tagline for explanation.
The number ‘5’ always held a special significance for us
personally. During the creative brainstorming process, recalling
the length of a saree, the name ‘Five Point Five’ suddenly struck
our mind and without any second thoughts, it was sealed.
The name beautifully encapsulates the standard length
of a saree, which is 5.5 metres. It also opens up a world of
possibilities, allowing us to explore a myriad of products
that can be crafted from this iconic 5.5-metre fabric. It’s a
name that not only defines our brand but also symbolises our
potential for creativity and innovation within the world of
textiles and fashion.
67
December 2023 | AO India 67
December 2023 | AO India
START-UP
DECODING INDIA’S FASHION
START-UP LANDSCAPE
In the past decade, the Indian fashion
industry witnessed a profound shift
propelled by the rise of start-ups. From
technological integration to innovative
products and sustainable contributions,
start-ups have reshaped the landscape.
Global investors, recognising India’s
potential, have poured over US $ 6
billion into these ventures. Despite
market fluctuations, these start-ups are
thriving, signalling a promising future.
Notably, government bodies, celebrities
and business magnates have joined
forces to champion and invest in these
ventures. In our upcoming January
issue, Apparel Online will delve into this
dynamic ecosystem, featuring valuable
insights from start-ups, investors and
experts. In this article, we explore the
start-up scene in India, their success
68 AO India | December 2023
strategies to raise capital, their mantra
for survival and many more. Stay tuned
for a comprehensive Cover Story on this
thriving industry!
Tracing the Evolution of
Fashion Start-ups
The start-up wave in India, particularly
in the fashion world, took root around
2006-07 with the inception of Myntra.
This period also saw the formation
of other major players like Flipkart
and Snapdeal. The journey continued
with notable milestones, including the
founding of Zivame in 2011 and Nykaa,
the country’s first woman-led unicorn, in
2012. Consequently, a plethora of startups, both large and medium-sized, have
emerged in the fashion sector. Notable
figures like Abhishek Ganguly, former
MD of Puma India, have ventured into
entrepreneurship, raising significant
funding for their initiatives. According
to the Department for Promotion of
Industry and Internal Trade (DPIIT),
the fashion start-up domain encompasses
1,279 start-ups, indicating a glorious
future for this industry.
Diverse Categories in
the Fashion Start-up
Ecosystem
Fashion start-ups in India exhibit diversity
in scale, expertise and strengths, attracting
consumers with unique value propositions.
They typically fall into four main
categories—technology-driven start-ups,
direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands, those
focusing on innovation and businessto-business (B2B) marketplaces—each
experiencing substantial growth.
START-UP
These start-ups leverage advanced
technologies like AI not only to sell
products online but also to enhance
customer understanding, increase sales,
optimise product assortments and
ensure timely and cost-effective delivery.
Meesho and Myntra stand out as leading
players in this sphere.
India boasts thousands of D2C start-ups
in the fashion segment, with a potential
to grow to US $ 43.2 billion by 2025.
Brands like Bombay Shirt Company,
Blissclub, The Souled Store, FableStreet,
FabAlley and Bewakoof.com are
amongst the prominent names propelling
the growth of this sector.
Start-ups like XYXX, DaMENSCH,
Zymrat, Bummer and Almo distinguish
themselves through specific product
innovations, particularly in categories
like men’s innerwear and athleisure.
Innovations often centre around
raw materials and technological
advancements, ensuring comfort and
enhanced performance. For example,
Bummer, an Ahmedabad-based startup which also got funding in famous
reality show Shark Tank India, focuses
on modal fabric with softness, funky
designs, bold prints, bold design in
men’s undergarments.
A crucial segment within Indian fashion
start-ups, B2B marketplaces connect
stakeholders across the textile supply
chain. ReshaMandi, Moglix, Zilingo and
Fashinza are prominent names in this
space, facilitating transactions beyond
India’s borders.
There are few other interesting start-ups
for textiles like Textile Genesis (acquired
by Lectra) which is a pioneering
traceability platform custom-built for
the textile ecosystem. C2C fashion recommerce platform CoutLoot is also a
well-recognised start-up.
Attracting a Spectrum of
Investors
The Indian fashion start-up sector has
successfully attracted a spectrum of
investors, ranging from global funding
giants to individual investors with limited
funds. Top start-ups like Meesho and
Myntra have secured investments from
renowned entities such as SoftBank,
Peak XV, Fidelity Investments, Prosus
& Naspers and Meta, amongst others.
Investors like Eight Roads Ventures,
Elevation Capital, Sixth Sense Ventures
and Matrix Partners have also played
a significant role in supporting various
fashion start-ups, including D2C brands.
In addition to financial backing, the
sector has witnessed participation
from individuals closely associated
with the fashion industry, such as
Harmeet Bajaj (Founding Member
of NIFT); Vineet Gautam, CEO of
Bestseller; former Myntra CEO Amar
Nagaram; fashion influencer Masoom
Minawala. Celebrities like Indian
cricketer KL Rahul and actress
Sara Ali Khan have also invested in
fashion start-ups like XYXX and The
Souled Store respectively.
These investors have a tilt towards
investing in tech-based and innovative
product start-ups due to their
technological edge and unique product
differentiation. Start-ups primarily
allocate their funding towards cultivating
an omnichannel strategy, research and
development, product enhancement and
team expansion.
The reality show Shark Tank India
has proven instrumental in creating
awareness for emerging start-ups, even
if they didn’t secure funding from the
show. The exposure has positively
impacted sales for many, showcasing
the significance of such platforms in the
start-up ecosystem.
Continuous Trend of
Acquisitions
The start-up landscape in India,
particularly in fashion, has seen a
continuous trend of acquisitions. Notable
instances include Myntra’s acquisition by
Flipkart in 2014. Reliance, one of India’s
top corporate entities, has acquired
established start-ups such as Clovia and
Zivame, both renowned for lingerie and
secured a 51 per cent stake in Ed-aMamma, a kidswear and maternitywear
brand founded by actress Alia Bhatt.
The success of D2C brands segment
attracted fashion and business
conglomerate Aditya Birla Group and
it started TMRW House of Brands
that has invested heavily in D2C brands
like Bewakoof.com (Rs. 200 crore),
The Indian Garage Co (Rs.155 crore),
Berrylush, Juneberry, Natilene, Nauti
Nati and Nobero, to mention a few.
In a recent development, Styched
acquired Flatheads, a D2C sneaker startup and Zymrat.
In summary, the Indian fashion start-up
industry reflects dynamism marked by
exceptional innovations, diverse categories
and a wide spectrum of investors.
December 2023 | AO India
69
START-UP//NEWS
Groyyo’s B2B trading business in trouble as investors
contemplate closure
Mumbai-based start-up,
Groyyo, is facing challenges
in its B2B trading operations,
with investors Tiger Global and
Alpha Wave Global engaging
auditing firm Deloitte to assess
the viability of the company’s
trading business. It is reportedly
being said that the trading
business of Groyyo may be
discontinued within the next
three months.
Groyyo is also confronted
with the task of recovering
a substantial amount of
outstanding receivables issued
over the course of this year.
This aspect is considered crucial
for both the company and its
investors as they contemplate
the closure of this business
division.
Over the past year, the twoyear-old start-up, valued at
approximately US $ 155
million, significantly expanded
its trading business, providing
yarn and other raw materials to
small manufacturers.
This expansion reportedly
resulted in a substantial increase
in overall gross sales, but it
also incurred notable negative
margins. While the business
grew substantially, the investors
believe that this isn’t the most
efficient use of capital for a
company of this nature.
Consequently, they have
enlisted the services of Deloitte
to oversee the winding down of
this particular business division,
as per sources.
AJIO launches AJIOGRAM to empower D2C fashion brands
AJIO – a leading Indian
fashion e-tailer – has launched
AJIOGRAM, a D2C-focused
content-driven interactive
e-commerce platform. With
this initiative, the e-tailer aims
to empower Indian fashion
startups that are challenging
the norms with their vision
and innovative products.
70 AO India | December 2023
AJIOGRAM can be easily
accessed by switching stores
within the AJIO app. It aims
to onboard 200 exclusive
homegrown D2C brands by
next year to offer customers
a wide range of options from
streetwear to fast, artisanal,
minimalistic, quiet luxury,
slow and sustainable fashion.
Vineeth Nair, CEO, AJIO,
remarked, “The emerging
new generation of shoppers
seek more than just a product
from the brand; they seek a
vision and a purpose. Over
the past few years, the Indian
D2C revolution has produced
numerous brands that have
aced innovative and mindful
fashion. AJIOGRAM will
bring these brands under one
umbrella, helping them scale
and accelerate their growth
while leveraging AJIO’s
seamless shopping experience.
With this initiative, we aim
to empower the next 100
fashion startups to emerge
from India.”
AJIOGRAM caters
to shoppers who seek
fashion aligning with their
personality and interests, as
well as purpose-driven niche
brands with limited edition
items. Top brands available
exclusively on AJIOGRAM
include Urban Monkey,
Supervek, Quirksmith,
KRÁ Life, Creatures
of Habit, Cecil, Truser,
Fancypants, MIDNIGHT
ANGELS BY PC, Monks
of Method, Crafts and Glory
among others.
AJIO will assist and offer
dedicated support to the
D2C brands to scale and
achieve their strategic
revenue growth. The
platform offers a unique
brand-centric approach
wherein, unlike the status
quo, brands get higher
visibility with an immersive
discovery experience to
showcase their range
of styles.
START-UP//NEWS
Showroom B2B raises US $ 6.5
million in pre-series A round
(L to R): Shubham Gupta (CFO & CSO), Abhishek Dua (CEO), Showroom B2B
Showroom B2B, the Indian
platform for unbranded
clothing, announced a preSeries A funding round,
raising US $ 6.5 million.
The round was led by Jungle
Ventures and featured new
investors like Accion Venture
Lab, Saison Capital and
ICMG Partners. Notably,
previous supporters Strive,
Gemba Capital, Titan Capital
and debt partners Alteria
Capital and Stride Ventures
continued their backing.
Showroom B2B had
previously secured US
$ 1.35 million in seed
funding earlier this year
and an angel round of US $
180,000 in 2021. The newly
acquired funds will fuel the
expansion of the company’s
phygital distribution model
and the establishment of
experience stores in India’s
Tier-2 and Tier-3 markets.
Additionally, Showroom
B2B will enhance its private
labelling capabilities, making
premium and affordable
fashion accessible to retailers
in smaller cities.
Abhishek Dua, Co-founder
and CEO of Showroom
B2B, shared their plans to
fortify their supplier base for
private labels, particularly
sourced from Bangladesh,
highlighting the significant
margin gains compared to
the regular marketplace.
Founded in 2020 by
Abhishek Dua and Shubham
Gupta, Showroom B2B
initially focused on ecofriendly furniture products
but has since evolved into an
asset-light business model.
It connects retailers with
an extensive inventory of
unbranded garments from
local sources. Showroom B2B
has partnered with over 500
garment manufacturers and
3,000 retailers, offering an
app-based ordering system
with doorstep deliveries.
The company currently
operates three experience
stores across different
regions in the country,
facilitating fashion retailers
in inspecting manufacturing
samples before placing bulk
orders. Showroom B2B
plans to expand its network
of experience centres by
November 2023.
December 2023 | AO India
71
TRADE STATISTICS
US APPAREL IMPORTS (January-September 2023)
Apparel imports fall in September ’23 over August ’23!
import values at US $ 5.65 billion. This decline is attributed to
the lingering economic slowdown in the western hemisphere,
leading consumers to exercise caution and reduce
investments in clothing products.
In September 2023, the value of apparel imports to the USA
amounted to US $ 7.37 billion, reflecting a 4.41% decrease
compared to the previous month’s figure of US $ 7.71 billion.
Throughout the year 2023, apparel imports have consistently
exhibited sluggish growth, with April recording the lowest
Global Apparel Imports by the US
(January-September 2023)
Change in UVR
22.81%
3.14%
(Average UVR in the review period was US $ 3.22 as
against US $ 3.14 in the same period last year)
Percentage change in top 3 product
categories imported by USA
T-SHIRTS
TROUSERS
29.71%
Cotton
16.64%
Wool
23.11%
MMF
Silk & Veg
Volume
(-33.19%)
Volume
(-23.79%)
Silk & Veg
6.35%
Value
(-23.72%)
Value
(-27.59%)
Value
(-17.53%)
Percentage change in India’s top product
category export (T-Shirts) to USA
Oct. 22
Nov. 22
Dec. 22
Jan. 23
Feb. 23
Mar. 23
Apr. 23
May 23
Jun. 23
Jul. 23
Aug. 23
Sep. 22
US $ 3.14
0
Value-wise share to USA by
top 5 apparel exporters
20.97%
1
2
8.14
6.34
6.60
7.27
5.94
6.26
5.65
6.40
6.52
7.70
7.71
7.37
3 4 5 6 7 8
(Value in US billion $)
19.09%
Volume falls
21.52%
9.50%
5.96%
5.43%
(The information has been extracted from US custom site and further analysed.)
72 AO India | December 2023
9
10
India’s unit prices of apparels shipped
to the USA in the 9-month period of
2023 amount to US $ 3.78
China
18.20% Vietnam
Value falls
0.42%
Month-wise USA
apparel import trend
US $ 3.22
Jan.-Sep. 2022
21.43%
MMF
LADIES DRESSES
Volume
(-23.92%)
2.91%
Wool
UVR change in apparel imported
by USA (2-year comparison)
Jan.-Sep. 2023
26.37%
Cotton
Change in Value
Change in Value
25.16%
Change in Quantity
Change in Quantity
Bangladesh
India
Indonesia
US $
3.78
TRADE STATISTICS
Total apparel exports to the US by 5 major manufacturing destinations
(January-September 2023)
Value-wise export to USA
Volume-wise export to USA
( Qty in mn SME)
-23.90%
-26.51%
-29.37%
( Value in US mn $ )
6772.81
China
12752.79
2940.42
Vietnam
11068.83
1764.94
Bangladesh
5778.19
959.43
India
3622.38
787.23
Indonesia
3302.06
-22.56%
-29.33%
-28.13%
-24.13%
-23.33%
-21.91%
-25.61%
Overall apparel imported by USA was worth US $ 60.82 billion in the said period with 22.81% decrease (Y-o-Y)
Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Sep. 2023
(Qty in doz, legwear in dpr, babieswear in kg)
Exports to USA
Total Imports by USA
China
APPAREL TYPE
India
Bangladesh
Vietnam
Indonesia
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
Babies Wear
11,02,84,984
7,13,79,287
-35.28
3,78,31,900
2,43,32,734
-35.68
1,41,40,837
86,33,405
-38.95
1,34,23,376
83,91,713
-37.48
1,34,67,518
97,55,698
-27.56
23,16,342
17,04,673
-26.41
Foundation
Garments
4,83,70,600
3,15,44,328
-34.79
2,23,49,481
1,44,21,583
-35.47
6,79,901
4,19,698
-38.27
42,50,475
28,81,212
-32.21
70,63,855
46,97,945
-33.49
49,09,952
30,67,635
-37.52
Jackets & Blazers
4,18,24,476
3,47,41,591
-16.93
1,73,27,902
1,41,67,309
-18.24
8,01,542
6,56,812
-18.06
39,54,462
33,35,419
-15.65
95,01,160
81,47,340
-14.25
18,41,360
15,07,015
-18.16
3,45,80,276
2,73,78,275
-20.83
1,05,99,496
81,35,536
-23.25
64,06,151
51,17,376
31,74,286
23,31,881
54,74,515
-17.11
37,05,746
29,49,887
-20.40
Ladies Dresses
4,86,12,883
3,70,46,342
-23.79
1,94,45,449
1,48,93,682
-23.41
64,75,765
51,54,550
-20.40
22,56,864
16,48,869
-26.94
95,51,346
73,56,329
-22.98
35,92,323
25,95,979
-27.74
Ladies Skirts
Ladies Blouses
1,17,43,215
95,73,674
-18.47
49,36,206
37,87,585
-23.27
9,16,247
7,44,421
-18.75
11,26,028
6,99,274
-37.90
21,63,282
20,36,463
-5.86
7,73,309
6,53,927
-15.44
19.87
Legwear
-20.12
-26.54
66,04,584
30,76,77,820
25,03,27,258
-18.64
22,01,56,213
16,85,90,099
-23.42
25,11,116
24,23,615
-3.48
1,94,380
1,27,268
-34.53
84,94,815
1,02,36,567
20.50
5,05,589
6,06,042
Men's Shirts
2,81,00,640
2,53,00,589
-9.96
42,27,642
34,56,845
-18.23
32,77,450
31,04,205
-5.29
87,00,557
82,14,699
-5.58
40,84,680
33,31,865
-18.43
15,43,300
15,06,300
-2.40
Nightwear
6,25,72,851
3,32,33,582
-46.89
3,09,40,377
82,19,516
-73.43
39,16,289
31,16,818
-20.41
30,94,695
13,14,051
-57.54
95,40,307
66,37,090
-30.43
20,74,031
13,01,851
-37.23
82,58,195
84,47,919
2.30
47,99,983
48,86,851
1.81
3,20,146
2,57,877
-19.45
2,93,634
3,25,170
10.74
8,93,510
8,75,012
-2.07
2,38,164
2,18,228
-8.37
Sweaters
1,40,34,340
1,25,53,889
-10.55
99,87,838
79,10,991
-20.79
67,280
72,976
8.47
10,51,075
12,23,641
16.42
6,26,911
6,90,479
10.14
5,70,729
5,71,928
0.21
Trousers
27,66,63,496
18,48,27,112
-33.19
5,40,27,205
3,76,62,824
-30.29
73,56,662
47,68,404
-35.18
5,26,62,420
3,44,28,999
-34.62
5,37,32,056
3,57,22,892
-33.52
1,86,15,819
1,19,80,617
-35.64
T-Shirts
51,03,80,352
38,83,18,812
-23.92
6,93,08,115
5,33,80,896
-22.98
2,60,44,755
2,04,38,930
-21.52
4,03,55,204
2,63,43,747
-34.72
6,71,69,677
4,79,08,252
-28.68
2,35,89,968
1,66,42,048
-29.45
Undergarments
22,36,36,543
16,50,94,342
-26.18
4,55,61,395
3,52,93,098
-22.54
1,65,45,737
1,28,08,150
-22.59
2,79,64,401
1,97,86,228
-29.24
4,94,79,183
3,71,22,083
-24.97
24,12,561
20,85,709
-13.55
Suits / Ensembles
Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Sep.. 2023 (Value in US mn $)
Exports to USA
Total Imports by USA
China
APPAREL TYPE
India
Bangladesh
Vietnam
Indonesia
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
2022
2023
% Change
Babies Wear
2,154.88
1,403.01
-34.89
530.48
328.99
-37.98
363.86
223.71
-38.52
229.43
160.58
-30.01
325.30
224.68
-30.93
70.97
54.48
-23.23
Foundation Garments
2,340.26
1,526.27
-34.78
683.72
387.57
-43.31
46.80
24.17
-48.35
122.13
85.19
-30.25
527.26
366.09
-30.57
287.09
190.74
-33.56
Jackets & Blazers
6,245.41
5,460.09
-12.57
1996.41
1540.85
-22.82
167.07
130.28
-22.02
500.96
471.36
-5.91
1746.13
1542.35
-11.67
309.41
270.25
-12.66
Ladies Blouses
2,374.43
2,005.96
-15.52
529.00
416.85
-21.20
553.78
458.79
-17.15
172.16
146.99
-14.62
391.18
334.25
-14.56
292.35
241.66
-17.34
Ladies Dresses
4,303.20
3,548.72
-17.53
1406.60
1083.68
-22.96
745.92
630.54
-15.47
117.67
84.99
-27.77
712.64
574.78
-19.34
324.81
247.84
-23.70
759.46
699.06
-7.95
222.23
189.51
-14.72
76.69
65.20
-14.99
51.75
38.00
-26.58
156.64
149.14
-4.79
56.99
43.22
-24.17
Legwear
1,990.89
1,541.80
-22.56
1184.12
871.21
-26.43
46.97
16.84
-64.14
0.56
0.22
-61.06
65.92
63.89
-3.09
5.29
4.92
Men's Shirts
2,430.69
2,328.07
-4.22
262.10
211.12
-19.45
260.71
259.56
-0.44
564.39
546.95
-3.09
417.82
358.31
-14.24
148.20
152.79
3.10
Nightwear
2,780.76
1,317.15
-52.63
1147.93
304.36
-73.49
191.79
137.87
-28.11
127.86
65.46
-48.80
554.97
351.36
-36.69
122.49
85.14
-30.50
Ladies Skirts
Suits / Ensembles
917.15
2.86
177.67
-16.28
45.28
7.14
Sweaters
1,400.93
1,252.43
-10.60
894.19
677.54
-24.23
7.45
6.12
-17.91
65.85
79.44
20.63
74.77
72.19
-3.45
43.47
43.23
-0.54
Trousers
18,703.99
13,543.05
-27.59
2388.18
1689.76
-29.24
498.34
347.84
-30.20
3,300.31
2,358.01
-28.55
3904.33
2747.49
-29.63
1138.71
807.02
-29.13
T-Shirts
21,580.89
16,462.33
-23.72
2702.33
1891.28
-30.01
1098.45
888.81
-19.09
1,261.88
883.32
-30.00
3591.84
2589.83
-27.90
1159.24
814.05
-29.78
3,628.43
2,646.66
-27.06
726.52
513.19
-29.36
346.42
243.97
-29.57
354.77
281.91
-20.54
754.40
540.49
-28.36
74.01
53.82
-27.28
Undergarments
891.63
212.22
42.26
26.16
29.91
14.34
119.58
125.31
4.79
53.50
47.25
-7.05
December 2023 | AO India
-11.68
73
TRADE STATISTICS
Canada Apparel Imports
(Jan.-Sep. ’23)
Canada’s apparel imports tumble again in
September after a surge in August!
During September ’23, Canada’s apparel imports declined by 13.61
per cent valuing US $ 979 million as compared to US $ 1.14 billion a
month before. The fall was recorded not just on monthly basis but on
yearly basis too as imports plummeted by a substantial 29.13 per cent
on Y-o-Y basis. A week demand is believed to be the main reason of
this downfall. Among top seven exporters to Canada, only Indonesia
managed to see monthly increase in its apparel shipments to Canada,
whereas all other countries including India fell drastically.
APPAREL
ALL
ABOUT
ONLINE
FA S H I O N
BUSINESS
9.91%
The knitted apparel reported decline of 17.17%
during the review period, whereas the woven
segment fell by 0.17% in value terms.
8.85%
Knitted garment exports from Vietnam to Canada
dropped by 18.61%, while export of woven
garments increased by 2.79%.
12.54%
Bangladesh’s shipment to Canada declined by
21.73% in knitted segment, while woven garment
exports decreased by 3.26%.
10.42%
The value of Indian knitted apparel exports
declined by 21.21%; while export value of woven
segment grew by 2.17% on Y-o-Y basis.
Canada Imports
Vietnam Exports
Our Editions
B’Desh Exports
AO INDIA
AO VIETNAM
AO BANGLADESH
India Exports
Japan Apparel Imports
(Jan.-Sep. ’23)
Japan continues to see monthly growth in its
apparel imports
In the 9-month period of 2023, Japan witnessed a significant surge in
its apparel imports, reaching a remarkable total of US $ 16.66 billion,
indicating an increase of 4.08 per cent. Notably, in September 2023, the
value of Japan’s apparel imports spiked to US $ 2.63 billion, marking
17.41 per cent month-on-month growth. Despite an increase in valuewise imports, Japan failed to see any growth in its weight-wise apparel
imports during January to September 2023 period.
4.08%
Japanese apparel imports decreased by 4.25%
in weight, while values increased by 4.08% in the
review period.
13.28%
Vietnam got a boost of 0.17% in weight-wise
exports to Japan, while values increased by
13.28% on Y-o-Y basis.
1.95%
Bangladesh’s garment exports to Japan saw
degrowth of 3.84% in weight-wise exports
and values increased by 1.95%.
8.90%
Indian apparel exports to the Japan
declined by 1.80% in weights and
increased by 8.90% in values.
Japan Imports
SUBSCRIBE NOW
Please call Customer Service at
+91 98913 74725, 90509 90602
or email at contact@apparelresources.com
www.apparelresources.com
Vietnam Exports
B’Desh Exports
India Exports
74 AO India | December 2023
December 2023 | AO India
75
Ask About Zero
Wasted Chemical
Applications
A Brand by
Navis TubeTex World Headquarters
76 AO India | December 2023
113 Woodside Drive Lexington, North Carolina 27292
Tel: 336-956-6444
www.navistubetex.com