● The price of money is ↑↑↑ 24 ● Ozempic’s ripple effects 10 ● A new Middle East nightmare 8 October 23, 2023 ● DOUBLE ISSUE How far can CEO Sergio Ermotti take the Swiss bank? 18 The Remarkable Rise of October 23, 2023 ◀ Wilson’s therapy has raised questions about who gets to decide which diseases find a cure PHOTOGRAPH BY ALANA PETERSON FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK 1 FEATURES 30 Exporting American Gun Culture With SHOT Show, Commerce helps gunmakers hunt for new customers 38 Chip Wilson’s $100 Million Cure 44 Out of the Park Battling muscular dystrophy, Lululemon’s founder is as aggressive as ever How the Indian Premier League turned cricket into a financial winner ◼ CONTENTS ◼ IN BRIEF ◼ OPINION ◼ AGENDA ◼ REMARKS Bloomberg Businessweek 4 6 6 Joe and Bibi ● Putin and Xi ● Pfizer fizzles Fossil-fuel subsidies: An idea whose time has gone European Council ● Tech earnings ● Priscilla Presley 8 Netanyahu: “This is only the beginning.” That’s not good 1 BUSINESS 10 12 Ozempic has more on its mind than diabetes and weight Luxury vs. rough-and-tumble: Jeep has a split personality 2 TECHNOLOGY 14 16 How much would you pay for ad-free social media? The oldest fight in tech is back 3 FINANCE 18 Sergio Ermotti’s complicated recipe for turning UBS into the world’s wealth management king 4 ECONOMICS 24 27 The new era of high interest rates isn’t all about the Fed ▼ As Argentina’s election nears, to dollar or not to dollar? October 23, 2023 ◼ COVER TRAIL How the cover gets made ① “This week’s story is about the biggest threat to Wall Street in years.” “I’m scared. Where is this threat coming from? China? India? Inflation? Various wars? The internet?” “Switzerland.” “I’m confused.” “Stay with me here. Remember how UBS acquired its rival, Credit Suisse? Well, now it wants to become the one-stop shop for the world’s richest people. How’s that for an exciting financial story?” “You seem giddy.” “Yes! Because it gets better: The CEO has agreed to a portrait!” “This is more exciting to you than your birthday falling on a three-day weekend, isn’t it?” 2 “Definitely color me stoked.” “Can we prop it with some Swiss chocolate?” “What? No.” ◼ PURSUITS/ SKI SPECIAL 51 55 56 58 59 Independents Day: This season isn’t all Vail and Alterra Safety gear you didn’t know you needed If even the pope can look cool in a puffer … Upgrades will add to resort dazzle—and shorten lines Après ski, lug your gear in something stylish ◼ LAST THING 60 Why risk takers populate The Businessweek Show How to Contact Bloomberg Businessweek EMAIL bwreader@bloomberg.net ● TWITTER @BW ● INSTAGRAM @businessweek ● FACEBOOK facebook.com/ bloombergbusinessweek ● AD SALES 212 617-2900, 731 Lexington Ave. New York, NY 10022 ● SUBSCRIPTION HELP businessweekmag.com/service ● REPRINTS/PERMISSIONS 800 290-5460 x100 or businessweekreprints@theygsgroup.com Cover: Photograph by Salvatore Vinci for Bloomberg Businessweek ECONOMICS: ERICA CANEPA/BLOOMBERG “To each his own …” ● Opposition leader Donald Tusk called on Poland’s president to start the handover of power. His Civic Platform and its electoral partners, the Third Way alliance and the Left party, won 248 seats in the 460-seat legislature on Oct. 15, defeating the hard-right Law & Justice party. Turnout broke records at 74%, with people in big cities queuing overnight to cast their votes. ● Vladimir Putin met with Xi Jinping in Beijing on Oct. 17. 4 Attending the Belt and Road Forum for International Cooperation, President Putin met privately with President Xi. With the West severing trade ties to Russia, China’s exports to the country have jumped 57% so far this year, and the yuan accounts for almost half of all foreign exchange trading in Moscow— up from 0.4% in January 2022. China has also become the largest importer of Russian fossil fuels, more than doubling its coal shipments since 2020. Bloomberg Businessweek ● War in Israel ▶ Hundreds were killed by an Oct. 17 missile strike on the Al-Ahli Arab Hospital, which was housing thousands of Palestinians who’d fled the bombing in Gaza City. Officials in Hamas-run Gaza blame the blast on an Israeli airstrike; Israel and the US say their intelligence suggests the hospital was hit by a missile fired by Islamic Jihad. ▶ In the aftermath of the hospital blast, Jordan’s King Abdullah II canceled a summit that had been planned for Oct. 18 in Amman to discuss Gaza with US President Joe Biden, Egyptian President Abdel Fattah El-Sisi and Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas. ● The value of distressed commercial real estate in the US approached $80b in the third quarter, its highest level in a decade, as rising interest rates and sagging office demand shook the property market. MSCI Real Assets reports that office properties account for 41% of the total. ● “I have come to Israel with a simple message: You are not alone.” President Joe Biden, meeting with Israeli Prime Minister Bibi Netanyahu in Tel Aviv on Oct. 18, restated America’s unequivocal support for Israel. He also announced $100 million in aid for Gaza and the West Bank, saying there would be checks to ensure that aid did not go to Hamas, and cautioned Israel not to let anger dictate its strategy. “We believe in the fundamental dignity of every human life,” Biden said, which he said “sets us apart from the terrorists.” ● Meet Digit, Amazon’s newest employee. On Oct. 18, the e-commerce goliath announced it’s testing Digit, a humanoid robot built by Agility Robotics, to help employees in its warehouses. The company has also begun to dispatch drug drones in College Station, Texas, broadening its still-experimental effort to deliver goods by air. ● Taylor Swift: The Eras Tour instantly became one of the highest-grossing concert films ever, taking in almost $93m in US and Canadian ticket sales in its opening weekend. ● The Changan Automobile distribution center in Chongqing, China. From January to September, China exported 825,000 EVs and hybrids, according to the China Association of Automobile Manufacturers, a 110% year-over-year increase. By Mark Leydorf, with Bloomberg News ● In yet another sign that Americans have put the pandemic behind them, Pfizer on Oct. 16 cut $9b from its annual sales forecast as demand for its Covid-19 shots and Paxlovid treatment subsides. Rival shot maker Moderna, test seller Abbott and drugstore giants CVS and Walgreens are all seeing revenues decline. ● India’s Supreme Court declined to legalize same-sex marriage. Five years after the court struck down a ban on gay sex, it sided with Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s socially conservative government, voting unanimously on Oct. 17 to leave the question of marriage to Parliament. It’s a major setback for India’s LGBTQ community, which has called marriage a “bouquet of rights” that affects everything from adoption to inheritance. TUSK: OMAR MARQUES/GETTY IMAGES. BIDEN: EVAN VUCCI/AP PHOTO. AMAZON: COURTESY OF AGILITY ROBOTICS. CHINA: CFOTO/FUTURE PUBLISHING/GETTY IMAGES. SWIFT: FREDERIC J. BROWN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ◼ IN BRIEF ◼ BLOOMBERG OPINION 6 The fight against climate change commands the support of governments around much of the world. Targets for carbon abatement have gotten more ambitious, and policies to address the challenge are proliferating. Yet one measure of progress shows how badly these efforts still fall short. Global fossil fuel subsidies in 2022 expanded to a record $7 trillion, roughly 7% of global gross domestic output. This remarkable number comes from a recently updated assessment by the International Monetary Fund, drawing on detailed disaggregated data for 170 countries. Rightly, it uses a comprehensive definition of subsidy, combining outright support (spending that offsets production costs) and implicit support (underpricing for environmental harms and forgone tax revenue). Explicit subsidies have more than doubled since the previous assessment for 2020, to more than $1 trillion, thanks partly to efforts to soften the blow of higher energy prices after Russia attacked Ukraine. Implicit subsidies, about 80% of the total, surged as well; unlike the explicit kind, they’re on track to rise further, both in dollar terms and as a share of global output, by the end of the decade. These enormous supports often result in policies at cross-purposes. Keeping fossil fuels cheap offsets the other taxes, subsidies and regulations governments use to reduce emissions and promote clean energy. In effect, with some of their policies, governments push fossil fuel demand in the right direction; then, with generous subsidies for pollution and climate change, they push it back. The gap between efficient prices and actual prices is especially egregious in the case of coal, which is both a potent driver of global climate change and in many countries a main cause of local air pollution. According to the Institute of Health Metrics and Evaluation, outdoor air pollution resulted in 4.5 million premature deaths in 2019. The IMF finds that 80% of global coal consumption was priced at less than half its true cost in 2022. Insisting that people pay full price for fuel would not only reduce consumption and slash emissions but also align that purpose with greater economic efficiency. First, it would make plain that some fossil fuels are worse than others, differences that can and should be priced accordingly. Second, it would provide a transparent basis for more effective inter­national cooperation. Because air pollution and climate change both count in the calculations, efficient fossil fuel prices vary from country to country according to local circumstances. But the gap between true costs and actual prices provides a consistent yardstick. Finally, cutting subsidies raises revenue, which allows for higher spending on worthwhile goals, lower ­government borrowing and/or cuts in other taxes. No doubt governments will blame politics for the dysfunction: Making fossil fuels more expensive is unpopular. This excuse is hardly compelling, because the existing subsidies could be put to better and more popular use. Still, if politics is indeed the obstacle, the rise in fossil fuel prices since 2020 provides an opportunity. Instead of letting prices subside in due course back to the pre-Ukraine norm, governments could withdraw or offset their existing subsidies at the same time, narrowing the gap with true costs without forcing prices higher. The new assessment shows that the numbers involved aren’t rounding errors. They’re enormous—and enormously counterproductive. Working to reduce and then eliminate fossil fuel subsidies should be an overriding priority for governments everywhere. <BW> For more commentary, go to bloomberg.com/opinion ◼ AGENDA ▶ All Together Now The European Council meets in Brussels on Oct. 26 and 27. The leaders of the EU and its member states have much to discuss: still-high inflation and anemic GDP growth, to say nothing of the wars in Ukraine and Israel. ▶ The European Central Bank makes its interestrate decision on Oct. 26. With inflation steadily declining in the euro zone, economists believe the bank is finished hiking rates for now. ▶ On Oct. 30 the Bank of Japan is also setting rates. On Oct. 18, Makoto Sakurai, a former BOJ board member, said he thought Japan would end its negative interest rates by yearend. ▶ The US Bureau of Economic Analysis puts out its core PCE price index, excluding food and energy costs, on Oct. 27. Month-overmonth increases have been very low of late. ▶ The Australian Bureau of Statistics publishes its year-over-year rate of inflation for the third quarter on Oct. 24. Inflation has been stubborn Down Under, but it’s declining. ▶ It’s a big week for tech earnings: Microsoft and Alphabet report quarterly results on Oct. 24; Meta and Amazon follow suit on Oct. 25 and 26, respectively. ▶ If last year’s Elvis left you wanting Priscilla’s side of the story, you’re in luck: Priscilla, directed by Sofia Coppola and starring Cailee Spaeny and Jacob Elordi, opens on Nov. 3. ILLUSTRATION BY RACHEL LEVIT RUIS Why Are Governments Still Subsidizing Fossil Fuels? October 23, 2023 ◼ REMARKS ● The Rafah refugee camp in Gaza on Oct. 15 8 The New Middle East Is an All-Too-Familiar Nightmare ◼ REMARKS Bloomberg Businessweek ● The attack on Israel has plunged the region into crisis, and there’s little hope of normalcy MOHAMMED ABED/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ● By Sylvia Westall Rockets rain on Israel; Gaza is bombarded. Anger erupts on Middle Eastern streets, and there’s squirming in the Gulf Arab capitals. The Oct. 7 Hamas attack on Israel—which killed more than a thousand Israelis, with some 200 more snatched as ­hostages— has already upended the region. Israel has responded by pummeling the impoverished Gaza Strip, killing thousands of Palestinians, while Hezbollah has attacked from Lebanon. Meanwhile the promising diplomatic overtures between Israel and Saudi Arabia are as good as frozen. What was supposed to be a “new” Middle East—one that ended old enmities between Israel and the Arab world in the pursuit of stability—is now looking like something else that’s horribly familiar. And things may only get worse, perhaps much more so. “This is just the beginning,” Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu said in a televised speech on Oct. 13 as 300,000 Israeli troops mobilized in preparation for a ground attack on the Gaza Strip. “Our enemies have only begun to pay the price.” In the week following the worst single-day attack in its history, Israel formed a rare emergency government and launched an all-out war on Hamas, an Islamist group the US and European Union have designated a terrorist organization that’s never recognized any legitimacy to Israel and never will. While the recent atrocities come after years of neglect to the Palestinian issue, they ultimately spring from an enduring cult of violence and death that, no matter what else is happening, has proven extremely hard to destroy. The question everyone wanted to ignore—can there ever be peace with the Palestinians?—again dominates Middle Eastern geopolitics. Managing long-standing tensions with the Palestinians had become a “sort of a check box” for normalizing relations with the Saudis, Netanyahu told Bloomberg News in August. The idea that millions of stateless people could just be swept under the carpet is looking more arrogant than ever. Israelis and Palestinians have entered an ugly phase triggered by Hamas’ shock incursion. It also comes as a reminder that such deeply rooted issues never really go away. For the US, long keen to untangle itself from conflicts after years of war in Afghanistan and Iraq, it’s yet another foreign policy quagmire ahead of elections. Other geopolitical confrontations, in Ukraine, Syria and elsewhere, have left hundreds of thousands dead, their countries in rubble and diplomacy stalled or ignored. Now Israel must return to the fight again, the consequences of which will be devastating—indeed, they already are. One of the worst assaults in Israel was on Kibbutz Be’eri, a collective near the Gaza Strip. Vivian Silver, who’d campaigned October 23, 2023 for peace with the Palestinians, was taken ­hostage from her home. She’d been hiding in her closet, her son Yonatan Ziegen said. He doesn’t know if she’s still alive but says she wouldn’t want Gaza destroyed in revenge. “She would be mortified, because you can’t cure killed babies with more dead babies,” Ziegen told the UK’s Channel 4 News in a video interview. “We need peace. That’s what she was working for all her life.” But the rhetorical lines, like the battle lines, have already started to blur. “It is an entire nation out there that is responsible,” Israeli President Isaac Herzog said at an Oct. 13 press conference, referring to the Palestinians in Gaza, a tiny coastal enclave that’s been under Hamas rule since 2007. “It is not true, this rhetoric about civilians not being aware, not involved. … They could have fought against that evil regime which took over Gaza in a coup d’état.” Just hours beforehand, Israel had ordered the 1.1 million residents of northern Gaza to evacuate south. Meanwhile, the United Nations warned of a humanitarian disaster. In support of Israel, the US has sent two battle fleets into the Mediterranean and had Secretary of State Antony Blinken crisscrossing the Middle East; now President Joe Biden is flying in on Oct. 18 to temper Israel’s response and try to prevent a wider conflict. Blinken even rang his Chinese counterpart, Wang Yi, to urge Beijing to use its influence in the region to prevent the crisis from escalating, a move widely viewed as an attempt to restrain Iran. Israel has the right to defend itself and ensure this never happens again, Blinken said during his increasingly frantic tour, standing next to Netanyahu on Oct. 12. “How Israel does this matters.” In Iran, Iraq, Jordan and Lebanon, tens of thousands have taken to the streets to protest Israel’s response, with smaller demonstrations in Morocco, Oman, Qatar, Turkey and Yemen. Iran has warned of a new front if the blockade of Gaza ­continues—an escalation that could easily sweep the region into a conflict of devastating proportions, engulf nearby US military bases and jeopardize some of the world’s most important shipping routes. The circumstances have become especially awkward for Saudi Arabia, where Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman has been trying to modernize a kingdom that’s long been sclerotic while cracking down on dissent. He doesn’t want his multitrillion-­dollar plans derailed by a regional war. But in pursuit of ties with Israel he, like everyone else, appeared to be sidelining the Palestinians. Hence Saudi Arabia’s about-face, in which MBS blamed Israel’s occupation of Palestinian territories and Israeli provocations for “the exploding situation.” Saudis defending Hamas’ actions online shared the statement widely. “What is certain is that we are witnessing a situation similar to post-September 11 in the United States,” Saudi journalist Tariq Al-Homayed wrote in a column in the pan-Arab daily Asharq Al-Awsat. “But this time, it’s in Israel, where the strategic rule is madness, and where there is no place for the voice of reason,” he wrote, warning against “changing the maps and returning to ground zero.” If only such a conclusion didn’t seem inevitable right now. <BW> 9 1 October 23, 2023 B U S I N E S S Edited by James E. Ellis The weight-loss wonder could cut demand for drugs targeting kidney and heart disease, and even Alzheimer’s. That’s bad news for makers of medicines for those conditions ILLUSTRATION BY IRENE SUOSALO 10 Bloomberg Businessweek ◼ BUSINESS Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 Ozempic is arguably the world’s most famous drug, a diabetes treatment turned miracle weight-loss cure that’s rocketed up the sales chart despite supply constraints. This may be only the beginning. Recent studies have started to illuminate the far-reaching benefits of Ozempic and other medicines in the same class, known as GLP-1 receptor agonists. The drugs appear to have a protective effect on the heart, liver and kidneys in addition to helping people lose weight, which in itself reduces the risk of many ailments. There’s also reason to believe GLP-1s could help combat substance abuse or even Alzheimer’s disease. That’s bad news for a broad spectrum of makers of drugs and medical devices. For example, Americans spend about $250 billion a year treating cardiovascular disease, the leading cause of death in the US. That includes what insurers and patients pay for blood pressure medicines, bypass surgery and implantable cardiac devices such as pacemakers. Analysts at Wells Fargo Securities estimate that GLP-1s could reduce the market for cardiovascular disease treatments about 10% by 2050. As evidence mounts for GLP-1s’ additional uses, investors are waking up to the potential fallout. When Novo Nordisk A/S announced on Oct. 10 that Ozempic’s effectiveness against kidney disease was so conclusive that it was stopping a trial early, it sparked a $3.6 billion selloff in shares of dialysis providers Fresenius Medical Care AG and DaVita Inc. “The market has reached a point of near peak hysteria regarding the impact of GLP-1s,” Matthew Taylor, an analyst who covers medical-device stocks for Jefferies LLC, wrote this month in a research note. “The carnage in medtech has been notable, and broad, almost indiscriminate, impacting names that seemingly have no perceived linkage to GLP-1s.” Just six years since it was introduced, Ozempic has already become the top-selling branded prescription medicine in the US, according to Symphony Health retail gross sales data, and Eli Lilly & Co. has lofty aspirations for its competing drug, Mounjaro. The more approved uses the companies can rack up while their drugs are still protected by patents, the better for business. “I don’t think any of us had the vision that, 40 years later, we would be thinking about all of these different actions of GLP-1,” says Daniel Drucker, a University of Toronto professor who helped discover how the drugs work. In the 1980s, Drucker and a small group of scientists in Boston established that a little-known gut hormone called GLP-1 stimulated insulin production in rats. GLP-1 injections were later developed to mimic that hormone for people with Type 2 ­diabetes, helping bring down their blood sugar. Ozempic was approved for treatment of diabetes in the US in 2017, followed by Mounjaro in 2022. The GLP-1 hormone also signals the brain to pump the brakes on appetite, which helps in weight loss. Novo in 2021 launched a higher-dose version of Ozempic specifically for obesity, called Wegovy. Because of shortages of Wegovy and similarities between the drugs, Ozempic and Mounjaro have also been widely used for weight loss, even though they’re only approved in the US for diabetes. Prescriptions for GLP-1s quadrupled from 2020 to 2022. Mounjaro is still a relatively small drug for Lilly, with about $480 million in sales last year, compared with $880 million for Wegovy and $8.5 billion for Ozempic. Lilly expects its drug to get approval for weight loss this year, and that could be just the tip of the iceberg. “This is transformative biology,” says Richard DiMarchi, a professor at Indiana University who spent more than two decades at Lilly. Wegovy has been shown to reduce the risk of heart attacks and strokes by 20% in overweight people with a history of heart issues. Novo and Lilly are also conducting studies to ascertain whether the class of drugs is effective against nonalcoholic steato­hepatitis, a severe form of liver disease. More than 64 million people in the US were estimated to have nonalcoholic fatty liver disease in 2016, Where Ozempic Could Hurt Business Annual US spending on treatment for conditions that could see patients turn to the new weight-control drugs Parkinson’s disease Substance abuse $25b Alzheimer’s disease $321b $35b Nonalcoholic fatty liver disease Cardiovascular disease $251b $103b Kidney disease $125b Diabetes $237b Obesityrelated medical care $173b DATA: CENTERS FOR DISEASE CONTROL AND PREVENTION; AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION; YOUNOSSI ET AL., HEPATOLOGY, 2016; LI ET AL., JAMA NETWORK OPEN, 2023; MICHAEL J. FOX FOUNDATION “ I don’t think any of us had the vision that, 40 years later, we would be thinking about all of these different actions of GLP-1” 11 Bloomberg Businessweek with annual direct medical costs totaling roughly $103 billion, or more than $1,600 per patient. Even if the drugs get approved for new uses, some hurdles remain. The biggest is cost. The list price for Ozempic is about $900 a month, and for Wegovy it’s more than $1,000. That’s much more expensive than generic statins and other heart medications. Insurers would have to treat numerous patients with Wegovy for years at a total cost of $1.1 million just to prevent one heart attack, stroke or cardiovascular death, according to a recent analy­sis from data company Airfinity Ltd. Experts say costs will start to come down as more GLP-1 drugs become available, but that’s still a ways off. Drugmakers will also need to work out how to make next-generation weight-loss drugs with fewer side effects. European authorities are probing reports that GLP-1s contribute to an increase in suicidal thoughts and cause complications in people who’ve been administered anesthesia. Separately, studies have shown Ozempic can cause troubling stomach issues such as bowel obstructions. On the other hand, activating GLP-1 pathways can actually make cells healthier by reducing inflammation and improving their function, according to Drucker. GLP-1 receptors are found in nerve cells and astrocytes, a type of cell in the brain that helps the body respond to inflammation. That’s one reason scientists think GLP-1 drugs might help treat Alzheimer’s or Parkinson’s diseases, which cost the US health-care system about $350 billion a year. Novo is testing whether the active ingredient in Ozempic, semaglutide, helps patients with early stages of Alzheimer’s. That study is expected to be completed in 2026. Current treatments for the disease include Leqembi, a breakthrough drug from Eisai Co. and Biogen Inc. that slows cognitive decline. Lilly is also seeking approval for an Alzheimer’s drug called donanemab. The companies’ other clinical trials run the gamut from knee osteoarthritis to sleep apnea. At the same time, outside researchers are increasingly excited by reports from people on Ozempic that they no longer have any desire for alcohol, cigarettes or other common cravings. That’s prompted at least nine clinical trials to see whether GLP-1s can be used to treat addiction. For now, academic institutions and research grants are funding these studies. The companies say there’s not enough supply to study everything, but some researchers have questioned whether the relative lack of insurance coverage for treatment of some conditions is partly why they aren’t investing more broadly. “I suspect that Novo has a list of other ­conditions that are reimbursed better than alcohol use ­disorder,” says Joseph Schacht, an associate professor of psychiatry at the University of Colorado School of Medicine who’s studying GLP-1s. It may be years before all the benefits of GLP-1s are known. Lorenzo Leggio, an addiction researcher at the National Institutes of Health, likens Ozempic’s development path to that of Viagra. The erectile dysfunction drug was originally developed by Pfizer Inc. for high blood pressure and chest pain, but researchers discovered its other use by accident during clinical trials. It went on to break records for fastest initial sales growth for a prescription drug. With how widespread Ozempic has become and even more potent formulations on the horizon, experts say the most interesting discoveries may be yet to come. “There’s just a tremendous amount of new innovation and new information that we’re looking at over the next decade,” Drucker says. �Madison Muller, with Naomi Kresge October 23, 2023 THE BOTTOM LINE The ability of Ozempic and other GLP-1 meds to improve cells’ functions and reduce inflammation has excited researchers over their prospects to treat many big-ticket diseases. Jeep’s Climb to Luxury Prices Leaves Many Buyers Behind ● The shift boosted profits but left the automaker selling fewer cars For years, Jeep has been the go-to ride for drivers seeking adventure in hardy off-roaders that scramble through mud and over rocks, then clean up nicely. The challenge for its parent company—first Fiat Chrysler, now Stellantis NV—has always been leveraging that rugged image to expand its reach. Jeep has had success steadily raising prices and extending the brand into luxury realms, with some of its full-size SUVs topping $100,000. That’s helped Stellantis Chief Executive Officer Carlos Tavares transform an historical underdog into the most profitable of Detroit’s automakers. But ever-higher prices also make it harder to hold on to the brand’s loyal US customer base as interest rates bite. Jeep’s move upmarket is running headlong into a consumer shift toward more affordable vehicles. Automakers with lower-priced options, such as Toyota Motor Co. and Hyundai Motor Co., are picking off some of the brand’s buyers and threatening ▼ Jeep brand vehicle sales, North America 250k 200 150 Q1 ’16 Q2 ’23 PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY 731; PHOTOS: COURTESY STELLANTIS (2); FORD: COURTESY FORD; HONDA: COURTESY HONDA; TOYOTA: COURTESY TOYOTA. DATA: COMPILED BY BLOOMBERG. BRONCO AND CR-V PRICES FOR 2024 MODELS, 4RUNNER FOR 2023 12 ◼ BUSINESS ◼ BUSINESS to steal new ones, data from automotive researcher Edmunds show. Meanwhile, the return of the Ford Bronco has given Jeep a true off-roading rival. Overall, unit sales for the Jeep brand fell 4% in the third quarter, the ninth consecutive quarterly decline. Sales are down 9% this year through September, with all but two models—the Compass and the Grand Cherokee—reporting lower deliveries year-over-year. That’s after Jeep sales declined 12% in 2022 and 2% in 2021. The SUV brand, best known for its rugged Wranglers, is losing ground even as the broader US auto industry shows strength. General Motors Co., Ford Motor Co., Toyota and Hyundai all posted strong gains last quarter as recovering vehicle inventories fed pent-up demand. South Koreabased Hyundai is now poised to unseat Stellantis as the fourth-biggest carmaker in the US this year, according to researcher Cox Automotive Inc. Stellantis, formed from the 2021 merger of Fiat Chrysler and France’s PSA Group, released the gloomy third-quarter results shortly after Christian Meunier, global head of Jeep since 2019, announced he’d leave the company. He’ll be replaced by Antonio Filosa, an Italian who’s been running the automaker’s business in South America. Dating to World War II, Jeep has long been the envy of the auto industry, thanks to its ability to command higher prices from its loyal customer base. Owners often customize their Wranglers to reflect a sense of freedom, individuality and escape that Jeep’s off-road SUVs and pickups convey—which can quickly add to a vehicle’s price tag. Jeep has capitalized on that image by raising prices on its popular Wrangler over the past five years by 40%—more than the industry average of 31%, according to Cox—while it’s pushed into the luxury sphere with the Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneer to compete with GM’s Cadillac Escalade and Ford’s Lincoln Navigator. But the move upmarket, coupled with the highest interest rates in more than two decades, means fewer buyers are in the mood for tricked-out SUVs selling for north of $50,000. “Their portfolio has lost touch with the mainstream consumer, and therefore the whole Jeep portfolio is less attractive,” says Mark Kudla, a former director of product planning at Fiat Chrysler who’s an adviser at consultant NorthStar Vision LLC. “The new Jeep guy is gonna have a lot of challenges.” The runup in prices is creating an opening for Jeep’s rivals, according to Alexander Edwards, president of branding research firm Strategic Vision. The Wrangler is facing stiffer competition from the Ford Bronco, which returned to market in 2020 after a more than 30-year hiatus. Companies such Bloomberg Businessweek as Hyundai, Kia Corp. and Honda Motor Co., which offer midsize SUVs packed with new technology at a lower price, are also nibbling away market share. In September, Jeep introduced a lower-priced version of its top seller, the Grand Cherokee, starting at around $36,000—about $3,000 lower than the model’s previous starting price. The cheapest Wrangler, the two-door Sport, starts at about $32,000, while a four-door starts at just under $36,000. Still, the average transaction price on a Wrangler was about $59,000 in September, well above an industry average of just under $48,000 for new vehicles, according to Cox Automotive. “Jeep is continuing to gain traction in the market, and we’re looking forward to continued success,” Jim Morrison, head of Jeep in North America, wrote in an emailed statement. Morrison said a monthly payment on Jeep’s Wrangler 4xe, the top-selling plug-in hybrid in the US so far this year, can be as low as $399 after factoring in the $7,500 consumer electric-vehicle tax credit. The cheapest plug-in hybrid Wrangler starts at $49,995, about $10,000 more than its gas-powered sibling. The Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneer have been successful attracting new customers from brands such as Ford, GMC, BMW, Tesla and Mercedes, show data from Strategic Vision’s Edwards. But even that success could have negative consequences, because it may alienate Jeep loyalists who can no longer afford a new Wrangler. “Jeep is supposed to be authentic and roughand-tumble, but also sophisticated and classy,” Edwards says. “It’s not supposed to be this thing that is more than most new vehicle buyers’ median salaries. It doesn’t send the right ­message.” �Gabrielle Coppola THE BOTTOM LINE The price of a Jeep Wrangler has risen 40% over the past five years. That’s been great for profits but may be pricing out traditional buyers who also face higher financing rates. October 23, 2023 ▲ Jeep’s product line ranges from the off-roading Wrangler Rubicon to the luxe Grand Wagoneer 13 ▼ Starting prices of competitors shopped by Jeep Wrangler buyers ● Ford Bronco, $39,130 ● Honda CR-V, $29,500 ● Toyota 4Runner, $40,155 14 T E C H N O L O G Y Edited by Joshua Brustein October 23, 2023 A Path to a Better Internet ● Can paid subscriptions make major social media services healthier and happier places? In certain ways, Meta Platforms Inc. is a ­complicated company. It runs an ever-growing collection of social media apps—Facebook, Instagram, WhatsApp, Messenger, Threads—and the virtual-­ reality app Horizon Worlds. It sells gaming headsets, smart sunglasses and business productivity software. It also operates advanced research labs developing next-generation artificial intelligence and new types of computer interfaces. But when it comes to how Meta actually pays for all this, the story is a lot simpler. Almost all the company’s ­revenue—98.4% in the most recent quarter—comes from a single source: personalized advertising. Targeted advertising revolutionized the media business, made Meta one of the most valuable companies in the world and gave co-founder Mark Zuckerberg the kind of disposable income (net worth, according to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index: about $120 billion) that’s allowed him to fashion himself into a leading philanthropist and parttime cage fighter. Users regularly complain that this type of advertising is creepy and distracting ILLUSTRATION BY TRAVIS CONSTANTINE 2 Bloomberg Businessweek ◼ TECHNOLOGY Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 and that the data-hungry operations supporting it come with downsides. Ad tracking causes users to disclose private information, often without realizing it, and the content recommendation algorithms that keep everyone scrolling through ads also tend to leave them angry and misinformed. And so, for pretty much as long as there’s been social media, a steady stream of criticism has argued that the entire system would work better if people could pay for the services they use instead of agreeing to tracking and targeting. Meta has never taken this argument seriously— and why would it, when the system the company built has worked so fantastically? Now the company is being forced to, as a result of a court ruling in Europe this summer requiring it to obtain consent before showing users personalized ads. According to the Wall Street Journal, Meta has told European Union regulators that within months it plans to charge EU users around €13 ($14) per month for access to an ad-free version of Facebook on their phones and €6 for Instagram. Competitors are working on similar offerings. Both Snapchat and TikTok are testing ad-free versions. And Elon Musk, owner of X (aka Twitter), teased “a higher priced subscription that allows zero ads” in a post earlier this year. That would probably cost substantially more than X’s current premium plan, which starts at $11 per month when purchased on a phone and cuts the number of ads in half. At a meeting with the company’s bankers on Oct. 5, Chief Executive Officer Linda Yaccarino suggested X would create three different tiers of service, with prices going up as fewer ads are shown. Will ad-free social media take off? Probably not. If Meta’s no-ads option were offered in the US, the European pricing would translate to roughly $240 per year, making Facebook and Instagram more expensive than some cellphone plans, newspaper subscriptions and gym memberships. They’d also cost about twice as much as X’s current premium tier, which has attracted only a tiny percentage of the company’s user base. It might be possible to persuade users to try a more reasonably priced ad-free service, but it’s unlikely that companies would be willing to drop prices far enough to find out, says Jonathan Zittrain, a Harvard Law School professor and co-­director of the Institute for Rebooting Social Media at Harvard’s Berkman Klein Center for Internet & Society. “The revenues for the targeted ­advertising-based online platforms are staggering,” he says. In 2022, Meta took in roughly $117 billion in revenue, and it collects about $220 per user per year in the US and Canada by selling ads, according to analyst estimates compiled by Bloomberg. Says Zittrain: “It’ll be hard to substitute subscription fees for it, especially when people are used to not paying.” Meta has signaled that the new ad-free service is more about placating regulators than attracting users. When Zittrain interviewed him at a 2019 Harvard event, Zuckerberg said “all the data that I’ve seen suggests the vast, vast, vast majority of people want a free service,” adding that he believed Facebook users preferred seeing ads to browsing the site without them. “People like being able to get information from local businesses,” he said. Meta reiterated this view when asked to comment on the new European service. The company “believes in the value of free services which are supported by personalized ads,” it said in a statement. “However, we continue to explore options to ensure we comply with evolving regulatory requirements.” The Recurring Costs of Modern Life Monthly subscription cost Washington Post Spotify $10 11 Disney+ 14 Planet Fitness 14 Netflix 15 15 Max 16 Mint Mobile 17 Facebook and Instagram New York Times 20 (proposed) 27 DATA: COMPANY WEBSITES, BLOOMBERG. DISNEY+, NETFLIX AND MAX ARE AD-FREE SUBSCRIPTIONS. ONE-TIME AND ANNUAL FEES ARE AMORTIZED OVER A ONE-YEAR PERIOD. FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM COSTS ARE AS PROPOSED TO EUROPEAN REGULATORS, ACCORDING TO THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Zuckerberg may resign himself to offering an expensive ad-free version of Facebook that only a few people will use; what he’s unwilling to give up on is the kind of detailed tracking and personalization that have made his apps so profitable. Today, Meta’s software is embedded in most big websites (and lots of small ones), and it monitors users to try to figure out what topics they’re interested in and which products they’ve browsed. The company combines this information with the data it already collects on each user’s behavior within Facebook and Instagram to build detailed profiles, which advertisers can then essentially rent out to serve hyperpersonalized ads to prospective customers. (It’s possible to opt out of some of this personalization, but Meta doesn’t make it easy.) Privacy advocates have complained that users don’t really understand how much information they’re giving up when they come into contact with Meta’s products. That’s partly why the EU in 2018 Bloomberg Businessweek required many companies there to ask ­customers to agree before they start getting served with personalized ads. But personalization is at the core of Meta’s business model—and the reason it can command advertising rates that are far greater than those of most websites. “Being able to track behaviors across the internet is what gives companies like Meta the power,” says Alessandro Acquisti, a Carnegie Mellon University professor who studies public policy and social media. According to Acquisti, a more consumer-friendly policy would be to offer a middle tier of services that allows customers to opt out of all tracking and targeting without necessarily opting out of ads. Meta’s choice to ignore this possibility is “disingenuous,” he says, adding that the company “may be trying to reframe as an ‘advertising/no advertising’ problem what is actually a ‘tracking users without their consent’ problem.” Streaming video services such as YouTube and Hulu already offer ad-free subscription tiers. Completely ad-free social media services already exist, too. Mastodon, for instance, relies on donations and a Wikipedia-esque network of volunteers. But it’s minuscule compared with mainstream services, and its founder isn’t on track to become a centibillionaire. One argument against tiered subscriptions is that they create a situation in which wealthier people could opt out of digital tracking and personalized ads, while poorer people have no choice but to submit. Zuckerberg himself alluded to this in the 2019 interview with Zittrain, saying he believed that it might be all right to charge customers for an ad-free experience, but charging them for enhanced privacy “feels wrong.” On the other hand, if ad-free social networks did somehow take off—either because customers proved more willing to pay up or because social media companies were compelled to accept lower ­profits—the internet would arguably be a lot healthier. The need of social media companies to keep users inside their apps looking at their ads for as much time as possible has hurt news publishers, which have seen traffic referrals from social media collapse in recent years, and led to algorithms that seem to favor rage bait over all else. A Facebook with a paid version would have less incentive to keep us away from more productive uses of our time—so long as it’s useful enough to keep us paying the bill each month. �Max Chafkin, with Aisha Counts Biden’s FCC Settles An Old Score THE BOTTOM LINE Meta may soon release paid versions of Facebook and Instagram, but the ad-based versions are too lucrative for it to try to make subscriptions a real alternative. October 23, 2023 ● The agency aims to revive Obama-era net neutrality rules gutted under Trump The Democrat-led Federal Communications Commission is heading into the next round of Washington’s longest-running fight over technology policy. On Oct. 19 the agency was slated to take a preliminary vote to reassert its authority to regulate broadband providers, clearing the way to pass a version of the net neutrality rules it eviscerated during the Trump administration. For almost two decades the tech policy world has fought over net neutrality—the principle that broadband providers should be prohibited from interfering with web traffic. It became a popular cause in Silicon Valley, then a mainstay issue during the Obama administration, when Democrats framed the rules as necessary to keep the internet open to all and to prevent cable and broadband companies from interfering with rivals’ web traffic and favoring their own content. Republicans and broadband providers have consistently said there’s little or no evidence of a problem. Further, they’ve described net neutrality as an unnecessary policy that will choke off investment, penalizing a sector that’s brought fast internet service to most US homes. Republicans have also said the FCC is overreaching: They point to the Trump‑era FCC’s decision that said the agency lacked the authority to impose the Obama-era rules. President Joe Biden has called for the reinstatement of net neutrality since being elected, but the FCC didn’t have the third Democrat it needed to push through the policy at the five-member agency until Anna Gomez joined in September. Just one day after Gomez became a commissioner, FCC Chairwoman Jessica Rosenworcel acted to move forward, saying Covid‑19 lockdowns had ratified broadband as “essential infrastructure for modern life,” yet the FCC “has limited ability to oversee these indispensable networks.” This puts the commission on a timeline that could have a new version of net neutrality regulations in place by mid-2024. Both sides are preparing for a familiar fight. “Here we go again. We’ve been trapped in Groundhog Day fighting this absurd battle” CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES 16 ◼ TECHNOLOGY ◼ TECHNOLOGY “Here we go again,” says Jonathan Spalter, chief executive officer of Washington-based trade group USTelecom, which represents companies including AT&T Inc. and Verizon Communications Inc. “We’ve been trapped in Groundhog Day fighting this absurd battle.” Advocates for the policy have been hoping to get moving on it since Biden took office. The long delay is “because of the powerful influence of the largest cable and telecommunications companies in Washington,” says Chris Lewis, president of the policy group Public Knowledge. “We need an FCC that clearly accepts and asserts its authority to protect consumers in the broadband market.” The outline of the proposed rules will be familiar to those who’ve followed the debate up to this point. The rules prohibit broadband providers that bring the internet to homes and businesses from blocking or slowing access to web traffic or offering paid “fast lanes” that put their business partners’ traffic ahead of everyone else’s. Rosenworcel’s FCC also says new rules are needed in part to protect national security and public safety. Under her proposal, the commission could deny companies controlled by hostile foreign governments access to broadband networks. In terms of public safety, it could bolster the agency’s authority to require internet service providers to report and fix outages. The chairwoman will have the support of advocacy groups such as Free Press, which see net neutrality as a key form of customer protection. “What this proceeding is about is protecting American consumers—­ ensuring that our broadband providers don’t rip us off, don’t discriminate against us and that they provide reliable connections in good times and bad,” says Jessica González, the group’s co-CEO. Spalter argues that a wave of investment since the last net neutrality debate has led to more capacity and faster speeds and leaves no reason for carriers to block content. “Those limitations are gone,” he says. “The original argument has no validity anymore.” A parallel discussion about the policy’s legal foundation could be crucial. Some question whether the FCC even has the authority to regulate broadband using rules written decades ago for old-fashioned telephone service. Rosenworcel’s proposal seems likely to end up in court. Opponents of net neutrality—and some outside observers—predict the rules will inevitably be struck down if the matter wends its way to the US Supreme Court, which in recent years has circumscribed the authority of federal agencies and is considering cases this term that Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 17 could undermine the power of the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau and the Securities and Exchange Commission. Bloomberg Intelligence analyst Matthew Schettenhelm gives companies an 80% chance of overturning regulations adopted by the FCC. “If so,” he wrote in a Sept. 29 note, “only Congress would be able to adopt federal broadband limits.” That doesn’t seem likely, given that net neutrality is an area of profound disagreement between Republicans and Democrats. There was a time when there at least seemed to be significant public energy around the issue. When Donald Trump’s FCC proposed gutting Obama’s rules in 2017, more than 2 million comments arrived at the FCC within a month. But such rules have since fallen significantly down the list of issues that can capture public attention. In the weeks leading up to the October vote, the FCC received about two dozen emails on the topic. �Todd Shields THE BOTTOM LINE The debate over net neutrality is one of the longest-running issues of internet policy, and an effort to pass new rules could eventually end up at the Supreme Court. ▲ Rosenworcel speaking at a 2017 rally in Washington to protest the end of net neutrality rules 3 18 F I N A N C E Edited by Joel Weber Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 The Swiss ● Sergio Ermotti is back at the helm of UBS—and looking to capitalize on the deal of a lifetime On a Saturday in March this year, FC Collina d’Oro was grinding its way to a 1-1 draw against Zug 94, rivals in a Swiss amateur league. The soccer ground in the south of the country is a modest one—no grandstands, just bleachers in the open air—but it’s perched on a hillside above Lake Lugano and surrounded by Alpine peaks. The club’s president, Sergio Ermotti, was trying to keep his mind on the players, but his phone wouldn’t stop buzzing—and the numbers looked vaguely familiar. Credit Suisse, the 167-year-old pillar of Swiss banking, had ended that week close to bankruptcy; officials in Bern, the country’s capital, were already attempting to engineer an ­emergency rescue. Only when the whistle blew for halftime, with the two teams deadlocked, did he return the calls. As the former chief executive officer of UBS Group AG, the biggest bank in Switzerland and a wealth ­manager of global standing, Ermotti was more than an a ­ verage spectator—and soon enough he’d be pulled into the biggest contest of his career. In the rescue plan hammered out that weekend, UBS would ultimately buy its former rival for just $3.8 billion. It was also quickly evident that the CEO of UBS at the time, Ralph Hamers, a Dutch national with little experience in the complexities of investment banking or wealth management, was not the man for the job. Two weeks later, Ermotti was in a temporary office at UBS’s monumental headquarters in Zurich, getting ready for his second term running the bank after giving up his role as chairman of reinsurer Swiss Re. It was “surreal” to be back less than three years after stepping down, he told Bloomberg Businessweek in an exclusive interview in Zurich on Oct. 11. But “after 48 hours, it was almost like I’d never left.” Bloomberg Businessweek Solution October 23, 2023 “ The true, real legacy is also to prepare the bank for the next chapter” 19 PHOTOGRAPH BY SALVATORE VINCI FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK ◼ FINANCE Bloomberg Businessweek In the months since, investors have ­ nthusiastically backed Ermotti’s plan to chop up e Credit Suisse and use the choicest bits to buttress his own bank. UBS’s shares have risen by almost a third since March. It’s preparing to cut tens of thousands of jobs over the coming years, with a confirmed 3,000 in Switzerland alone. Yet the Swiss establishment has more or less given UBS a free hand. The disappearance of one of the country’s two global banks generated some political grumbling, and finance minister Karin Keller-Sutter’s Free Democrats party has taken a dent in the polls before an Oct. 22 general election. For this vote, however, the Swiss seem more urgently concerned with rising health-care costs and immigration. In his first decade at UBS, Ermotti was a stabilizing force. The bank had required a state bailout during the global financial crisis, and a rogue-­ trading scandal in 2011 further rocked its reputation. Although Ermotti overhauled the bank’s playbook, swapping the volatility of investment banking for the steadiness of wealth management, the overall growth strategy at the time of his 2020 departure remained vague. Hamers, in charge for less than three years, failed to set a clearer path. Ermotti is now making amends and laying the groundwork for UBS’s growth strategy far beyond the absorption of Credit Suisse. “I see my mandate as not only about integrating the bank,” he says. “The true, real legacy is also to prepare the bank for the next chapter.” If he plays everything right, Ermotti can use Credit Suisse to bulletproof UBS as the undisputed global wealth champion far beyond his own t­ enure. The core of that transition will be to harness Credit Suisse’s more muscular, US-focused investment bank to serve America’s ultrawealthy, challenging the Wall Street giants on their own turf. UBS will report third-quarter earnings on Nov. 7. A key point to watch will be the extent to which UBS’s profits can absorb the bleeding at Credit Suisse. The latter expects a loss of some $2 billion for the period, as some business areas are wound down. The integration of Credit Suisse comes with a raft of potential difficulties, from closing out positions to managing the legal liabilities inherited from UBS’s rival. The combined bank is entangled in a long list of lawsuits, as well as a US Department of Justice probe into suspected compliance failures that allowed Russian clients to evade sanctions. UBS’s ascent to becoming the only properly global wealth manager began in the 1990s, following the merger of its antecedent institutions, Swiss Bank Corp. and Union Bank of Switzerland. Like its peers, UBS went after the fortunes to be made in the newly liberalized world economy, as globalization went into hyperdrive following the fall of the Soviet Union. It still traded on its founding Swiss values of “confidence, security and discretion,” which helped secure business in rapidly developing economies, notably in Asia. In Chinese, the characters used for “UBS” simply mean “Swiss Bank.” October 23, 2023 ● Hamers ◀ UBS headquarters in Zurich HEADQUARTERS: ALAMY. HAMERS: BLOOMBERG. DATA: BAIN & CO. (GLOBAL TOTAL); COMPANY FILINGS (BANK FIGURES) 20 ◼ FINANCE ◼ FINANCE Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 A sign of UBS’s standing is its claim that it banks more than half the world’s billionaires. That’s focused efforts on building piles of money into mountains of cash for the so-called ultrahigh-­­­networth bracket, a broad category that means having at least $50 million or so to invest. And yet, UBS remains a relative minnow on Wall Street, being just one of several European lenders that have tried, and mostly failed, to make it big trading and doing deals there. Deutsche Bank AG closed its equities business in 2019, while HSBC Holdings Plc said in 2021 it would divert capital from its investment bank in New York to fund its pivot to Asia. (Ermotti’s own scaling back around 2012 involved exiting most debt-trading activities.) Now, UBS, one of the best-valued major European institutions, wants to take a second run at the US, but this time in the more staid business of managing wealth—and in the largest market for such services in the world. The challenge is still stiff. Rivals such as Morgan Stanley have much bigger client networks and bigger investment banks to craft whizzy financial products for them. UBS has also already suffered setbacks in trying to scale up its wealth management offering in the US. The latest was the $1.4 billion deal under Hamers to buy robo-adviser Wealthfront Corp. in 2022, which had been abandoned by the time the Credit Suisse acquisition came to pass. UBS’s valuation has accordingly trailed that of Wall Street’s titans, and Chairman Colm Kelleher has made little secret that he thinks it should be higher—as high, perhaps, as that of Morgan Stanley, where the Irishman spent most of his career. For Ermotti, boosting UBS’s second-rate presence in the US would fix a glaring deficit at the heart of the bank’s long-term strategy, a deficit he didn’t manage to address last time on the job. “No one else in the industry has had this kind of chance,” says Christoph Kuenzle, a lecturer on wealth management at Zurich University of Applied Sciences. “In UBS’s 150 years of history, this was the one big opportunity, almost for free. I think they would really have to mess up for it not to work out for them.” Ermotti was born in 1960 in Lugano, the l­ argest city in the canton of Ticino—an Italian-speaking area that serves as something of a Riviera for landlocked Switzerland. There’s a Mediterranean climate and easy access to the lakes and mountains that form the border with Italy. In terms of its presence in Switzerland’s business and political life, though, Ticino tends to be overshadowed by the German- and French-speaking regions. “Ermotti is attached to Ticino,” says Christian DePrati, a childhood friend who worked at Credit Suisse First Boston and Merrill Lynch and still stays in touch with him. “It is one of his strengths to be really grounded and not losing contact with reality. He knows what his roots are.” He’s also fiercely competitive, which manifests in his passion for soccer. As a young man, he played for his local team and even dreamed of becoming a professional. Once, in a soccer match organized for a bachelor weekend, DePrati says, Ermotti scored a goal so spectacular that he was given the nickname Pinturicchio, after Italian national star Alessandro Del Piero. But Ermotti eventually switched his ambitions to finance. He’d taken an apprenticeship at Cornèr Bank in 1975, where he stayed about a decade in various roles. Merrill Lynch hired him in 1987, where he worked until the early 2000s. He ran investment banking and served as deputy CEO at Italian lender UniCredit SpA, joining UBS in a regional role in 2011, before being appointed CEO in the same year. At UBS, Ermotti’s strategic pivot away from investment banking and toward wealth management capitalized on one of the financial industry’s recent megatrends. In a world of low interest rates, the humdrum business of checking accounts and mortgages presented a challenging environment for financial institutions. Ditto investment banking, where the turbulence of arranging share sales and advising on company mergers led to a proliferation of losses. Yet the astonishing rise of global financial wealth on the back of an historic surge in asset prices these past three decades has provided a banking bonanza for a lucky few in New York, Zurich and Singapore. The trend looks set to continue. Bain & Co. estimates that the global wealth market will double in size, to $230 trillion, by the end of the decade, with $254 billion in new revenue up for grabs for financial institutions catering to the rich. As of yet, no single player looks set to nab all of it. ▼ Global wealth management assets as of Dec. 31, 2021 UBS’s Valuation Trails Behind Over the past decade, UBS’s value to investors—shown as its priceto-book ratio—has decreased. Price-to-book ratio ● 9/30/2013 ● 9/28/2023 0.5 1.0 1.5 JPMorgan Chase Morgan Stanley Wells Fargo UBS Bank of America DATA: BLOOMBERG INTELLIGENCE Global industry total $137t Morgan Stanley $4.9t UBS and Credit Suisse 4.5 Wells Fargo 2.2 JPMorgan Chase 1.9 Bank of America 1.6 21 Bloomberg Businessweek No one manages more than a small percentage of the existing global wealth pool—some $137 trillion—making the space ripe for both e ­ xpansion and ­consolidation. The Credit Suisse deal, which boosted UBS’s client asset pile to more than $5 trillion, will help solidify the bank’s leading position in Asia and the Middle East. For Ermotti the clear prize is the US, the world’s largest pool of wealth. He’s quick to quote statistics showing there are more than 36,000 people in the US with a liquid net worth topping $100 million, triple the number just four years ago. And he says his task now is to increase the share of these wealthy people served by UBS—and then offer them a broader range of ways to expand their money. In the US the industry operates mostly like a brokerage, using teams of mom and pop financial advisers that commit to using UBS or Morgan Stanley or JPMorgan Chase & Co. to bank their transactions. While UBS has a network of about 6,000 financial advisers, Morgan Stanley has 16,000, underlining the challenge of scale. UBS’s push for growth also comes in a crowded market that will struggle to replicate the unprecedented tailwind from asset prices over the past decade. About 70% of US wealth managers’ $30 trillion in asset growth in the nine years through 2021 small,” he says. “But of course we are not as large as the pure domestic players. So we need to grow in a way that helps us to narrow the gap.” The Credit Suisse acquisition, in theory, means UBS now has a bigger, more s­ ophisticated ­investment bank to help funnel entrepreneurs— who need banking, initial public offering and deals advice—into wealth management services once they get rich. The irony, however, is that Ermotti is relying on what’s widely regarded as the most problematic part of Credit Suisse to execute his US strategy. The investment bank, once known as Credit Suisse First Boston, was the site of the $5.5 billion loss over the collapse of Archegos Capital Management in 2021. Defusing the risks inherent in that part of the bank is one of Ermotti’s most vital tasks in the integration, along with keeping the relevant staff amid an exodus of d ­ ealmakers. Measured by its assets, the investment bank is set to downsize by about two-thirds. Ermotti says the investment bank’s focus should be on sectors including technology and health care as well as private equity firms, which hold stakes in privately held companies. Those sectors have the best prospects for minting millionaires who will later need their wealth managed. The CEO says he’s confident he has a “critical mass” of the bankers he needs to get that job done and can attract new talent from competitors in a way that the relatively smaller UBS investment bank couldn’t do before. “You need to offer more, bring more assets onto the platform and offer more products to the same clients,” Ermotti says. “Narrowing the gap in the US, in addition to what we have outside the US, reinforces our unique standing as the only truly global wealth manager. Nobody else can claim that.” UBS will give an outline of its three-year growth strategy, which will include a focus on the US market expansion, in February 2024. Ermotti talks about being called back to UBS as a confirmation of his first mandate. The idea that UBS would be seen as having the strength to absorb its largest competitor is evidence of how far the bank has come since it had to go, cap in hand, to the Swiss government in 2008. But Ermotti is focused on building a legacy that goes beyond just being Bern’s firefighter. “In two or three years’ time, the integration will be over, and the clock resets,” he says. “We need to look at the next opportunities.” �Marion Halftermeyer, Myriam Balezou and Alessandro Speciale, with Max Reyes Crowded Market Global wealth management revenue UBS Morgan Stanley Bank of America Wells Fargo JPMorgan Chase $25b 15 5 20132022 DATA: BLOOMBERG INTELLIGENCE came from markets appreciating, according to McKinsey & Co. A world with higher­-for-longer interest rates may not be so kind. Also, every major US bank sees the same opportunity that UBS does; grabbing a slice of a steady business that investors love looks increasingly imperative. While Ermotti admits it’s pretty much impossible to eclipse the giants on their home turf, he still has these peers in his sights. “We have $1.7 trillion of assets in the US, so it’s not that we are THE BOTTOM LINE The UBS acquisition of Credit Suisse creates a global wealth manager that is eyeing a bigger role in the US, which it identifies as a major growth opportunity. October 23, 2023 ● Kelleher ● Keller-Sutter GETTY IMAGES (2) 22 ◼ FINANCE 24 E The Price C Of Money O N O M I C S ● The real reason interest rates are set to stay high doesn’t have much to do with the Fed Edited by Cristina Lindblad What’s the most important price in the global ­economy? The price of a barrel of crude? A microchip? Or maybe a Big Mac? More important than any of these is the price of money. For more than three decades, it was falling. Now it’s going up. Take the yield on 10-year US Treasury notes, which has surged toward 5% in recent weeks, pulling up the cost of mortgages and corporate loans in its wake. At first it seemed as if the market was reacting to another blistering jobs report. But when what looked like a blip turned into a bond market rout, an alternative explanation emerged: Investors are finally coming to grips with the realization that October 23, 2023 something fundamental has changed. Money is going to stay expensive for a good long while—and not just because it’s taking longer than expected for the Federal Reserve to wrestle down inflation. Ask most people how the price of money is set, and they’ll say central banks. It’s true, the Federal Reserve is in charge of setting interest rates. But intrinsically, the price of money, like the price of anything else, reflects the balance of supply and demand. When the supply of savings expands because, say, workers are socking more of their paychecks away, then the cost goes down. If it’s investment demand that’s growing quickly—because the government is pouring money into road upgrades or companies are splashing out on factory robots— then the cost goes up. For economics wonks, the price of money that balances savings and investment while keeping ­inflation stable is called the “natural rate of interest,” or r-star. To understand why this ILLUSTRATION BY VINCENT KILBRIDE 4 Bloomberg Businessweek ◼ ECONOMICS Bloomberg Businessweek concept is central to policymaking, imagine what would h ­ appen if the Fed set borrowing costs well below the natural rate. With money too cheap, there would be too much investment and not enough savings, and the economy would overheat, sending inflation spiraling upward. Flipping that around, if the Fed set borrowing costs above the natural rate, there would be too much s­ avings and not enough investment, and the economy would cool, pushing up unemployment. This equilibrium point is notoriously difficult to pin down. “The natural rate is an abstraction; like faith, it is seen by its works,” wrote the American economist John Henry Williams in 1931. The quandary for central bankers, according to Williams, is that “one can only say that if the bank policy succeeds in stabilizing prices, the bank rate must have been brought into line with the natural rate, but if it does not, it must not have been.” Almost a century on, r-star retains much of its elusiveness, which is why Fed Chair Jerome Powell has repeatedly expressed skepticism about its usefulness as a guide for monetary policy. Nevertheless, some economists say we’ve reached an inflexion point. Former US Secretary of the Treasury Lawrence Summers and Kenneth Rogoff, who was chief economist at the International Monetary Fund, both argue that the era of cheap money is over, citing factors such as stepped-up government borrowing to finance increased military outlays and the transition to a greener economy. But that view is far from unanimous. “Today’s inflation will not last, but I believe that low rates will,” wrote Olivier Blanchard, another former Why Money Got Cheap Long Decline in Borrowing Costs Is at an End Natural rate of interest 10-year real bond yield Credible interval for natural rate: ◼ 90% ◼ 68% 6% 4 2 0 -2 Q1 1970 Q4 2023 THE NATURAL RATE IS THE BLOOMBERG ECONOMICS ESTIMATE OF THE EQUILIBRIUM REAL 10-YEAR US TREASURY BOND YIELD. THE ACTUAL RATE IS THE 10-YEAR BOND YIELD LESS THE BLOOMBERG ECONOMICS ESTIMATE OF TREND INFLATION. DATA: BLOOMBERG ECONOMICS October 23, 2023 hange in the US natural rate of interest since 1970, C in percentage points Percentage-point contribution: ◼ Growth ◼ Inflation risk ◼ Investment prices ◼ Inequality ◼ US debt ◼ Population aging ◼ Global spillovers and other 1 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 19702022 THE MODEL IS DESIGNED TO CAPTURE THE BIG FACTORS DRIVING THE SUPPLY OF SAVINGS AND DEMAND FOR INVESTMENT AND TO QUANTIFY THEIR IMPACT ON THE NATURAL RATE OF INTEREST. DATA: BLOOMBERG ECONOMICS IMF chief economist, in a blog for the Peterson Institute for International Economics. Those in this camp argue that the forces that drove down the natural rate going into the ­pandemic— such as demographics and sluggish productivity growth—will reassert themselves once inflation has been corralled. To find out what drove interest rates lower and to forecast where they might go in the future, Bloomberg Economics built a model of the big factors driving the supply of savings and demand for investment capital in the US. The dataset spans a half-century and focuses on 12 advanced economies deeply enmeshed in the global financial system. Based on this exercise, Bloomberg’s team of economists estimates that, adjusted for inflation, the natural rate of interest for 10-year US government notes fell from 5% in 1980 to a little less than 2% over the past decade. One of the most important reasons for the drop in the natural rate was weaker economic growth. In the 1960s and ’70s, gross domestic product expanded at an average of almost 4% a year thanks to the combination of a swelling workforce and— in the early part of that period—rapid productivity gains. But by the 2000s, those forces were petering out. In the wake of the global financial crisis of 2007-08, average annual GDP growth slumped to around 2%. Investing for the future became less ­attractive, dragging the natural rate lower. Shifting demographics contributed in another way. From the ’80s on, as America’s baby boomers started squirreling away more funds for 25 “The natural rate is an abstraction; like faith, it is seen by its works” 26 ◼ ECONOMICS Bloomberg Businessweek retirement, the supply of savings went up, e ­ xerting more downward pressure on the natural rate. Other factors were bearing down on the price of money. China began recycling a portion of its growing trade surpluses into US Treasuries. And US income inequality worsened, which had the effect of expanding the supply of savings as high earners tucked away a bigger portion of their income. On the investment side, computers got cheaper and more powerful, so companies didn’t have to spend as much upgrading their technology, thereby pulling the natural rate lower. For the US economy, that fall in the price of money had profound consequences. Bargain basement borrowing costs allowed households to take on bigger mortgages. And in the early 2000s, many bit off more than they could chew, helping set the stage for the global financial crisis. Cheaper money also meant that even as US federal debt almost tripled, from just over 30% of GDP in 2000 to more than 90% today, the cost of servicing that debt remained low, allowing the government to continue spending without restraint. For the Fed, a lower natural rate meant less room to cut interest rates during downturns, leading to much hand-wringing about the diminished firepower of monetary policy. All that is changing. Some of the forces that drove the price of money lower have swung into reverse. And other vectors are coming into play. Baby boomers are leaving the workforce and spending down their nest eggs, which eats into the supply of savings. Meanwhile, China’s appetite for US Treasuries has been diminished by tensions between Washington and Beijing and by a ­rebalancing of China’s economy. US federal debt surged as the global financial ­c risis ripped through the economy and Upside Risk to Natural Rate US Government Got a Free Pass as Rates Fell Federal debt held by the public as a share of GDP Interest payments on federal debt as a share of GDP 100% 20002022 2% 50 1 0 0 20002022 DATA: CONGRESSIONAL BUDGET OFFICE (HISTORICAL BUDGET DATA, FEBRUARY 2023) October 23, 2023 Natural rate on 10-year US government notes, inflation-adjusted ◼ Baseline forecast ◼ Climate action ◼ Fiscal imprudence ◼ Technological leap 4% 3 2 1 0 20222050 DATA: BLOOMBERG ECONOMICS again when the coronavirus pandemic struck. Government ­spending on stimulus has tapered off, but ­deficits remain wide and competition for investment ­capital has intensified. That’s partly because incentives in federal laws that have sparked a boom in construction of electric-vehicle plants and semiconductor fabs. The rising debt is creating upward pressure on long-term borrowing costs. How much higher will the natural rate go? Bloomberg Economics’ model shows a rise of about a percentage point, from a trough of 1.7% in the mid-2010s to 2.7% in the 2030s. In nominal terms, that means 10-year Treasury yields could settle somewhere between 4.5% and 5%. And the risks are skewed toward even higher borrowing costs than that baseline suggests. In the base case, governments eventually take action to put borrowing on a sustainable path. But with Democrats and Republicans struggling to find common ground on how to get America’s fiscal house in order, there’s a clear danger that deficits will stay wide for the foreseeable future. Action to tackle global warming has so far been modest, but if the world does get more serious about it, massive investment will be required. BloombergNEF estimates the energy infrastructure needed to support a zero-emissions economy will cost more than $30 trillion globally, equal to about 30% of world GDP last year. And rapid advances in artificial intelligence and other breakthrough technologies might boost productivity, bumping the US onto a faster growth trajectory. ● The cost of building a zero-emissions energy network $30t ILLUSTRATION BY VINCENT KILBRIDE. DATA: INSTITUTE OF INTERNATIONAL FINANCE ◼ ECONOMICS Bloomberg Businessweek According to Bloomberg Economics estimates, the combined impact of ­persistently high levels of ­government borrowing, more spending to fight ­climate change and faster growth would lift the natural rate to 4%, translating to a nominal 10-year bond yield in the region of 6%. Even under the less extreme scenario, the shift from a falling to a rising natural rate will have profound consequences for the US economy and the global financial system. Low-cost mortgages have been a major contributor to the almost relentless rise in US housing prices since the ’80s, creating an affordability crisis. There’s a similar story in equity markets. Since the early ’80s, the S&P 500 has surged, powered in part by lower rates. With borrowing costs on the rise, that impetus for ever-increasing home and equity valuations will be taken away. The shift to higher rates might trigger a Schumpeterian episode of creative destruction, by laying waste to the growing legions of corporate zombies. The number of unprofitable companies has risen in recent decades, reaching almost 50% of all publicly listed companies worldwide in 2022, according to a report Goldman Sachs Group Inc. published in October. In an ideal world, an increase in bankruptcies might result in capital and labor being redeployed to more efficient ends. Perhaps the biggest loser in this new high-rate regime will be the US Department of the Treasury. Even if debt rose no further relative to the size of the economy, higher borrowing costs are set to add 2% of GDP to debt payments annually by 2030. If that had been the case last year, the Treasury would have paid out an extra $550 billion to bondholders, which is more than 10 times the amount of security assistance the US has funneled to Ukraine so far. Of course, some of the reasons rates might move higher—such as stronger productivity growth or investment to get to net zero—are positives not negatives. And higher rates create winners as well as losers: Savers and investors piling into bonds will enjoy higher rates of return. And when recessions hit, the Fed will have more room to lower borrowing costs to spur the economy. Powell once said that r-star is less reliable than the celestial stars that mariners in ancient times relied on to guide their voyages because its trajectory shifts often. That’s happening now, and it’s going to be rough sailing. �Jamie Rush, Martin Ademmer, Maeva Cousin and Tom Orlik, with Rich Miller Dollarization Holds Promise And Peril for Argentina THE BOTTOM LINE A model devised by Bloomberg Economics has yields on 10-year Treasuries rising as high as 6% because of factors such as climate change and high government borrowing. October 23, 2023 ● A bungled switch to the greenback could bring back the monster of hyperinflation Leon Romero is all in on Javier Milei, the ­political maverick whose radical proposal to scrap the Argentine peso and replace it with the dollar has made him the favorite heading into the Oct. 22 presidential election. “I’m not scared to try something different. I am scared of what I know doesn’t work, which is what we’ve been living with for years,” says Romero, a 23-year-old accounting assistant at a bakery chain whose 150,000-peso monthly salary has been decimated by inflation. In July his monthly paycheck was worth about $300 at the most widely used parallel exchange rate; today it’s half that. “In dollars, my salary will be safe.” But when asked about the details of Milei’s plan, Romero concedes he’s fuzzy on exactly how it would work. He’s not alone. Milei says dollarizing would tame inflation that’s running at 138% and unleash about $250 billion in pent-up investment. But the mechanics are complex, even for a population replete with doctorates in kitchen-table economics: Freeze the peso-dollar exchange rate, lift capital controls, and allow both pesos and greenbacks to circulate for a while before the majority of transactions simply migrate to dollars. Milei’s opponents say that the plan is too risky and that if he pulls it off, Argentina will have effectively ceded monetary policy control to the US Federal Reserve—meaning it won’t be able to adjust interest rates, devalue the currency or print money in response to an external shock such as the global financial crisis. Milei says that’s exactly the point: to take decisions out of the hands of Argentine policy­ makers, who, he says, have a terrible track record managing the economy. Economists say that if Milei were to win office, he’d need roughly $40 billion on hand to begin ­dollarizing the economy. It’s unclear where he might procure that many dollars. The central bank doesn’t have any—net foreign reserves are negative at the moment—and the nation is effectively shut out of international capital markets because investors are pricing yet another default on government debt. If he has any hopes of making his plan work, Milei will have to coax Argentines into moving the billions of dollars they have stashed in safety ▼ Argentines’ offshore assets ◼ Currency and deposits ◼ Other investment assets $400b 200 0 20062022 27 28 deposits at home and savings accounts abroad into the local banking system. Argentina’s national statistics agency estimates its citizens hold about $250 billion in foreign currency outside the banking system, under mattresses and in lockboxes within the country. That would account for more than 10% of dollar bills in circulation globally. They also hold another $250 billion in liquid assets in offshore accounts, according to data from the International Institute of Finance. Perhaps nobody has a better view into Argentines’ hidden stash of greenbacks than Juan Piantoni, the founder of Ingot. In a building in downtown Buenos Aires, down four flights into a subterranean bunker, past a metal detector, biometric eye scanner and then bulletproof doors, Piantoni shows off a room lined floor to ceiling with safety deposit boxes. They’re filled with cold hard cash: Ingot currently insures at least $225 million for clients at its six branches in Argentina and Uruguay. “Money should be at the bank. The ­logical thing would be for it to generate interest in a normal country,” Piantoni says. “People don’t trust the system.” And why should they, when their leaders have been so quick to part them from their hard-earned money during times of crisis? It happened in 1989, when the government forcibly converted about $3 billion in short-term deposits into long-term government bonds. Then again in 2001 when, to stem a bank run, authorities instituted a $250-per-week limit on cash withdrawals. Some aspects of daily life already operate in dollars. Homebuyers, high-end restaurants and importers are accustomed to dealing in greenbacks. “We don’t have 30-year mortgages or bank loans that are easily attainable,” says Maximiliano Gölz, a real estate agent in Buenos Aires. “Ninety percent of transactions are done exclusively in cash. I mean literally bags of money with dollar signs on them.” Ecuador’s and El Salvador’s experience with ­dollarization has been largely positive, though not entirely pain-free. When Ecuador ditched the sucre in 2000, the local currency lost about a quarter of its value in the week before dollarization as p ­ eople flocked to dollars in anticipation of the switch. In Argentina, the gap between the official exchange rate of 350 pesos per dollar and the rate in parallel markets has widened dramatically since an open primary in August confirmed Milei as the front-runner in the presidential race. The lower the peso falls, the easier dollarization may be, because it will require fewer greenbacks—a dynamic that Milei acknowledges Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 is advantageous for his plan, even if it penalizes Argentines ­without dollar savings. But there’s also a risk that the peso will continue to plummet and dollarization never comes to pass. That would almost certainly unleash another ruinous episode of hyperinflation, defined as prices rising at a monthly rate of at least 50%. Argentina’s most recent reading was 12.7%. Claudio Porcel, founder and chief executive officer of Balanz Capital, a local brokerage, says that if Milei wins the presidency, either in a first round victory this month or in a runoff scheduled for early November, his administration will have to move fast. Avoiding “hyperinflation is like being in the middle of the African Savannah, and there’s a lion coming at you, and you only have one b ­ ullet,” he says. “You better put the bullet between the eyes.” Noelia Zuñiga, 27, says she’s ready for dollarization and is sick of the hassle that’s built into the current system. Before buying her first car last year, she spent years socking away her earnings from a coffee cart, eventually stuffing $10,000 in dollar bills behind the bedroom dresser in the windowless apartment she shares with her mother. Although Zuñiga, a fan of Argentine soccer superstar Lionel Messi, acknowledges she doesn’t really know the specifics of how Milei’s proposals will work, she’s sure it will be better than the current system. “I have a lot of faith in Milei,” she says. “He’s like Messi and the ball. I just know he’s going to pull it off.” �Scott Squires and Manuela Tobías ▲ Milei THE BOTTOM LINE Presidential candidate Javier Milei’s plan to swap the Argentine peso for the dollar faces numerous obstacles. For starters, there aren’t enough readily accessible greenbacks. “Ninety percent of transactions are done exclusively in cash. I mean literally bags of money” MATIAS BAGLIETTO/NURPHOTO/ZUMA PRESS ◼ ECONOMICS EXPORTING AMERICAN GUN CULTURE Bloomberg Businessweek By Jessica Brice and Michael Smith Illustration by Maxime Mouysset EXPORTING AMERICAN GUN CULTURE How hundreds of US government employees became sales reps for the gun industry EXPORTING AMERICAN October 23, 2023 31 Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 FOR 32 several days each January, some 52,000 gunmakers, dealers and enthusiasts flood a 2 ­million-square-foot convention center near the Las Vegas Strip. They come from all parts of the globe for the Shooting, Hunting and Outdoor Trade Show, better known as SHOT Show. It’s the world’s biggest firearms industry event and as much party as it is trade expo, with a buffet of weaponry, gun influencers livestreaming in a dozen languages and models with AR-15s propped on their shoulders. The big producers, such as Glock Inc. and Smith & Wesson Brands Inc., host lavish dinners; the startups rent penthouses for boozy bashes. Through this maze of 2,500 exhibitors and up an escalator is a collection of quieter spaces, including one called the International Trade Center. With its partition walls and stackable burgundy chairs, it lacks the flash of most other SHOT Show attractions. But to the US firearms industry, it’s a vital gateway to sales beyond American borders. Inside, foreign buyers can cut deals with US gunmakers in glass-walled conference rooms or at big round tables. Interpreters mill about, offering free translation services. The National Shooting Sports Foundation, the industry group that runs SHOT Show, provides the space, but this is a US Department of Commerce operation. In 2013, Commerce agreed to start hosting people from around the world at SHOT Show as part of its International Buyer Program, an effort to boost exports of various US products by promoting stateside trade shows. The NSSF considered the move a “crucial” step in a multiyear plan to bring in more overseas business, according to a decade-old NSSF blog still lingering online. In the first year of the partnership, Commerce’s Foreign Commercial Service, which operates out of US embassies and consulates, steered 370 buyers to SHOT Show. By January 2023, that number had surged to more than 3,200. The global network of Foreign Commercial Service employees has effectively become a combination SHOT Show travel agency, gun industry promotion service and deal brokerage. “The assistance we get from the Commerce Department, especially at SHOT Show, is invaluable,” says Luis Guerra, founder and chief executive officer of Armaq SA, a Peruvian gun importer and retailer. To make his point, he presents a printout from the 2023 show, listing dozens of appointments with suppliers he says the department helped him set up. “You really can’t be in this business without that help,” he says. In recent years, Commerce employees overseas have organized group trips to Las Vegas from South America, Africa, Asia and the Middle East. In interviews, invitees of the US government detailed how Commerce officials booked flights and hotels for Guatemalan firearms shops, scored discounted Cirque du Soleil tickets for Brazilian importers, provided matchmaking services for Peruvian buyers At the 2018 SHOT Show and helped rush through a visa approval for a politician in Brazil’s “­bullet c­ aucus,” a band of National Congress members focused on fighting for gun rights. US lobbying groups and companies fill out the foreign attendee ranks by flying in activists and influencers. The NSSF offers them all training sessions on how to start grassroots gun-rights campaigns and dominate social media. The NSSF didn’t respond to requests for comment for this story. The partnership has been particularly successful in Latin America. In Peru, a lobbying group for hunters’ rights spent almost a decade mentoring and financing the advocate who helped mold gun-rights legislation in the image of US laws. In Brazil, starting in 2015, US activists and lobbyists cultivated ties with a little-known lawmaker named Jair Bolsonaro. By early 2019, Bolsonaro had become president, and within two weeks of his swearing-in he began scrapping the country’s restrictive gun laws, blowing open one of the world’s biggest potential markets. The pro-gun ambitions and rhetoric of popular lawmakers in Argentina, Colombia and Ecuador can also be traced to US ties and events. There have been setbacks. In Brazil, a returning president, Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, rolled back gun rights; in Peru, firearms shipments were frozen after the US Department of State raised concerns about civil unrest and possible human-rights violations, according to export license documents. Nonetheless, the blossoming of American-style gun culture—the elevation of gun ownership as a personal and political identifier, the social interaction at gun events, the framing of public debate over any restriction as a step toward oppression—portends a shift in voter sentiment and an overall increased tolerance of more firearms. The number of progun lawmakers in Brazil’s Congress has surged to more than 100 since the early 2000s, when Bolsonaro was the lone deputy making the pro-gun agenda his priority. This is what the National Rifle Association meant when a top executive in January 2021 touted the power of “quiet diplomacy” to rewrite the foreign political landscape and change public opinion. It’s a long game. And it’s working. Bloomberg Businessweek SHOW: ETHAN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES. SALIDAS: PHOTOGRAPH BY ANGELA PONCE FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK I October 23, 2023 n 2014, the first year the Commerce Department ­partnered with SHOT Show, Thomas Saldias, an avid bird hunter from Peru, used the occasion to announce a new pro-gun lobbying group—the Latin American Legal Guns Coalition, or CALL, for its Spanish acronym. Firearm ownership across Central and South America “is under coordinated attack,” said Saldias in a statement released ahead of a news conference. Activists need to join forces, the statement said, to fight gun bans “being pushed by deep-pocketed international organizations.” His words that day had been carefully reviewed by a different sort of deep-pocketed organization: Safari Club International, the NRA ally that had taught Saldias the art of lobbying against gun control, American-style. Today, Peru has some of the most permissive gun laws in the Americas. In a nation haunted by a history of coups, narco­terrorism and violent crime, the liberalization of gun laws has marked a substantial win for the industry. Saldias was in his late 30s in 2005, when he went to Texas A&M University to study for a doctorate in wildlife sciences. The hunting culture he saw in the US—regulated and with access to millions of acres of national parks—left him in awe. He dreamed of bringing that way of life back to Peru. He emailed the Safari Club asking for help and quickly got a call from Norbert Ullmann, director of the organization’s international division. Saldias says his education in the American art of ­lobbying was hastened later with an all-expenses-paid trip to Washington for Safari Club’s annual convention. One morning Ullman invited him to join the group on a visit to Congress. He watched as volunteers fanned out across the US Capitol, knocking on lawmakers’ doors and asking them to support a regulatory tweak. Saldias can’t recall what rule it was now, but he remembers his astonishment at how effective a grassroots pressure campaign could be. “We just didn’t have that custom in Peru,” he says. It wasn’t long before Saldias was banging on doors himself. Peru’s 2011 presidential election was won by Ollanta Humala, a left-leaning army commander who wanted to crack down on crime by banning most gun ownership. By then, Saldias was Safari Club’s Latin America representative, a volunteer position that came with a small stipend. He clocked legislative win after win, first helping to persuade lawmakers in Peru’s Congress to expand gun rights, then lobbying to open up the market to higher calibers and different types of guns. Civilians with a clean criminal record can now buy just about any level of firepower they want in Peru, short of a machine gun. “For sure, he learned the ropes in America, and he introduced this US attitude to South America,” says Ullmann, who’s since left Safari Club. CALL went international at the 2014 SHOT Show news conference. Then, that June, at a truly global scene: the United Nations in New York. Saldias remembers stopping to collect his thoughts and calm his nerves before testifying at the biannual meeting of the UN program to fight He remembers his astonishment at how effective a grassroots pressure campaign could be. “We just didn’t have that custom in Peru” Saldias on a pigeon hunt in Trujillo, Peru 33 Hunters in Trujillo 34 the illicit trade of small arms. Representatives from scores of countries watched, while interpreters in glass booths translated the proceedings into Spanish, Arabic, Chinese and Russian. Saldias spoke for three minutes, saying his group would give a voice to millions of gun owners. “The truth is that a lot of the advocates here propose disarming civilians and penalizing law-abiding gun owners,” he said. “We are here to keep that legal right.” Sitting at a long table, he was in the company of some of the most powerful gun lobbyists in the world, including NRA executive James Baranowski. It was Baranowski who later told the NRA board about the organization’s quiet diplomacy. “While our efforts are often in the shadows,” he said, according to board minutes released as part of a court case, “our results … can be seen and heard around the world.” One of its greatest successes, he told them, was persuading President Donald Trump to withdraw from a UN treaty regulating small arms sales—the kind of restrictions Saldias had testified against. Baranowski, the NRA and Safari Club International declined to comment for this story. F or invitees of the US government, the road to SHOT Show can start thousands of miles from the Vegas Strip, at gun events where Foreign Commercial Service workers scout buyers to add to their show rosters. In Brazil, that task falls to Genard Burity, a Rio de Janeiro native who’s been peddling Made-in-the-USA for almost a quarter-century, including software, Boeing planes and American movies. In recent years, guns have also become a big part of the job. Burity is part of a network of about 675 local hires at embassies and consulates around the world who make up the US government’s sales team abroad. American officers rotating in and out on two-year stints call the shots, but ­locals like Burity, whose title is specialist, know all the right ­people. “Their job is to work with any and all American companies and talk about what they can do to sell their products in Brazil and elsewhere,” said Anton Kemps, a US Department of Defense official, on a recent trade mission to Brazil. How exactly they do that is a secret, classified by Commerce as confidential commercial information. At a fourday defense expo in Rio in April, the consulate provided a full rundown of State and Defense department employees in attendance, but declined to name Commerce employees there, even though Burity and two of his American bosses were visibly present. Burity declined to comment for this article, as did the US consulate in Rio, the US Embassy in Brasília and the Commerce Department. By piecing together Burity’s movements over several months earlier this year, via interviews with people he met and emails sent from the embassy to gun importers, it’s possible to get a sense for how the US government’s chief business promoters operate on foreign soil. During the Rio defense expo, Burity touched base with contacts old and new. He introduced Brazilian deal brokers to US makers of armed boats and rifles favored by SWAT teams. He checked in with the biggest importer of Smith & Wesson weapons, to whom he introduces US firearms dealers every couple of months. Bloomberg Businessweek HUNTERS: PHOTOGRAPH BY ANGELA PONCE FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK. LAAD: ANTONIO LACERDA/EPA-EFE/SHUTTERSTOCK The LAAD Defense & Security Expo in Rio And he spent two hours talking to Sig Sauer’s local rep, a bulked-up salesman who wanted Burity to put pressure on his bosses to fight Lula’s gun restrictions. In the months before and after the April event, Burity and embassy staff helped push through paperwork and licenses for 30,000 Springfield Armory handguns going to São Paulo prisons and 500 Sig Sauer rifles for Rio’s police. Burity set up a meeting between a Brazilian pro-gun lobbying group and embassy officers. He also gave feedback on the prototype of a new magazine modeled after an NRA periodical. Gunmakers doing business in Brazil say the help they get from the Foreign Commercial Service is key. “I run all my deals past Genard whenever I do business,” says Luiz Horta, international sales director for Springfield Armory. “We’re old friends.” Burity is one of at least two dozen specialists stationed in Africa, Asia, Europe or South America who leads foreign buyers to SHOT Show each year, along with a range of other trade expos, including an event in Denver in May on robotics and drones. Save-the-date notices go out months in advance. As the show approaches, embassy staff encourage invitees to use a State Department app to book meetings with US gunmakers and dealers eager to fill their orders. It’s unclear how much time and money the Commerce Department spends on activities tied to SHOT Show each year. When the agency didn’t turn over spending documents in response to public records requests, Bloomberg News filed a lawsuit in May to get access to the information; the suit is ongoing. S HOT Show, of course, isn’t the only expo Commerce works with. The International Buyer Program brings thousands of foreign professionals each year to a range of events, for industries as diverse as concrete, dental equipment and electronics. But none of them blends business and political activism like SHOT Show does. Federal law prohibits government employees from using their position to favor specific candidates or a political party, but it’s hard to argue SHOT Show isn’t a partisan event. The NSSF, whose annual lobbying expenditure has overtaken that of the NRA, has said it gets more than 75% of its annual budget from the event. The October 23, 2023 NSSF contributed to the campaigns of 256 national candidates in the 2021-2022 election cycle. Four were Democrats. While the NRA has historically presented itself as the voice of gun owners, the NSSF represents companies. Finding new customers is a key part of its mission. Its Big City Tours project aimed to persuade urbanites and minorities to pick up guns; its +One Movement urged social shooters to bring a friend to the range; and marketing materials such as an article titled “Not Just Pink Products” offered tips on how to win over women. In a 2020 study, the NSSF touted the success of such efforts: a 56% increase in gun purchases among Black Americans, compared with 2019, as well as 8 million first-time gun buyers. Women accounted for 40% of all sales. But the push for international buyers was different. Strict regulations meant US manufacturers couldn’t simply export guns the same way they shipped, say, car parts or toilet paper. For decades, almost all guns sold abroad fell under the same export controls as sensitive military equipment. Thousands of items sat on the so-called Munitions List, requiring State Department approval on every export license, congressional notification on deals worth more than $1 million and limits on technology sharing. The Obama administration originally proposed overhauling the list to free up State Department resources and cut red tape for US companies. The State Department would keep oversight of the heavy-duty and highly deadly—the rocket-propelled missiles, the flamethrowers, the fighter jets and submarines. The Commerce Department would take everything else, from night vision goggles to parts for satellites. It was up to a Washington lawyer named Kevin Wolf, Commerce’s assistant secretary for export administration from 2010 to 2017, to figure out where pistols and rifles belonged. Wolf is a pragmatist who’s spent his career moving between government desks and law firms. “When I arrived, as an export control agency we were spending most of our time reviewing and approving parts going to allies,” he said recently from his home office, where portraits of Presidents Barack Obama and Joe Biden hang on his wall. NSSF donations to US Congress members $700k ◼ Republican ◼ Democrat ◼ Independent 350 0 2012 2014 2016 2018 2020 2022 DATA: OPENSECRETS 35 Bloomberg Businessweek 36 “All our resources were spent approving things we’d been ­approving for decades.” In his proposed executive order, Obama left in a requirement that Congress be notified before large gun shipments were approved. The State Department would also keep veto power. The Obama administration had been set to formally propose the shift of firearms oversight when, in December 2012, a 20-year-old gunman walked into Sandy Hook Elementary School in Connecticut and murdered 26 people, 20 of them children. No one wanted to go near the issue, Wolf recalls, so he stowed the proposal in a ­government-issued yellow folder on a bookshelf in the hallway outside his office at the Commerce Department, where it sat until Obama’s term in office ran out. “I just dumped it at the bottom of the list,” Wolf says. “I thought, ‘Well, maybe, you know, if Hillary wins, we’ll pick it back up.’ ” Hillary Clinton didn’t win the presidency, and Trump’s ­inauguration, on Jan. 20, 2017, coincided with the annual SHOT Show, where he’d been a keynote speaker the year before. Big screens were set up across the expo center, broadcasting the ceremony as crowds cheered. Wolf had moved on to legal consulting at law firm Akin Gump Strauss Hauer & Feld, and Larry Keane, the NSSF’s top lobbyist, quickly hired him as a strategic adviser. Wolf says he still believes the shift to Commerce was the right move, mainly because that department has more enforcement resources than State and because requests for export licenses by Commerce would trigger multi-agency notifications. He says he was frustrated with how the Trump administration hyped the change as a way to boost gun exports, but he had no say over its final form. “It was no longer my job,” he says. Wolf, who isn’t a lobbyist, says he has hundreds of legal consulting clients, mainly in semiconductors. “I don’t work for the gun industry other than, you know, Larry calling me up for thoughts and advice,” he says. Keane declined to comment. When the switch from State to Commerce finally took effect, in March 2020, the NSSF rushed to alert its ­members. Keane, in a blog post, called it a “crucial milestone” for US manufacturers. The move eliminated congressional notification. It drastically cut fees, which inspired scores of small companies to jump into the global market. And it eliminated the requirement for order-by-order approval, which cut the time it took to get an export license by more than half. The NSSF started offering training courses on the new regime at SHOT Show. For $150, would-be exporters can access a five-part webinar on the NSSF website in which Wolf himself explains the system. The industry’s decade-long push to win over international markets was finally set to take off. From March 2020 to June 2021, the Commerce Department approved almost $16 ­billion in firearms export licenses—a 30% increase from historical averages, according to congressional estimates. Biden, who’s said fighting US gun violence is a key issue, has not significantly tightened export licensing requirements, though his administration has partially reinstated the congressional notification requirement for some semiautomatic October 23, 2023 From March 2020 to June 2021, Commerce approved almost $16 billion in firearms export licenses— a 30% increase from historical averages weapons. “American foreign policy has become much more focused on the economics,” says Jon Michaels, a professor at the UCLA School of Law who’s written extensively about the relationship between government and private industry. He called Biden’s inaction surprising. “There are very few levers that the Biden administration has to regulate guns—very few spigots to shut off—and this seems like an obvious one.” A martial artist, a lawyer and a priest walk into a gun club. They’re all social media stars, and they’re at the Top Gun Shooting Range in Florianópolis, Brazil, to promote a sharpshooting competition. But in the world of guns, it’s impossible to separate the product from the politics. All conversations among the 100 gun enthusiasts here eventually turn to the question on everyone’s mind: What now? Months earlier, on his first day in office, Lula had shut down one of the gun world’s most promising markets. New ownership licenses were frozen. Cargoes of weapons and ammo at warehouses in US semiautomatic gun exports to Brazil Florida, Georgia and Texas were denied entry. Anyone ◼ Bolsonaro administration who’d purchased guns 20k under the previous administration was given 60 days to re-register their arms in a national database. 10 The swing from the policies of his predecessor was extreme. Bolsonaro, with close ties to the NRA, was 0 the politician the lobby had always dreamed of. His gun 2012 2022 market overhaul fueled an DATA: US CENSUS BUREAU Bloomberg Businessweek TARGET: PHOTOGRAPH BY ANGELA PONCE FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK. MANSUETO: SANSONE MANAGEMENT almost 600% surge in licensed owners and dramatically expanded what calibers and models civilians had access to. But Bolsonaro’s legacy won’t be as the president who pumped an overwhelming ­number of firearms into Brazil. The nation was already flush with weapons, many of them illegal, long before he took office. The most important thing he did, says Clovis Cesar de Aguiar Jr., owner of the ISA shooting range outside São Paulo, was send a message: “He simply communicated to citizens of this country they had a right to own a weapon.” Bolsonaro’s true gift to the industry will be a proliferation of gun clubs in the mold of Top Gun and ISA, which helped unite a diverse group of shooters under a single pro-gun banner. During his presidency, the number of gun stores doubled, to 3,200. By his final year, a shooting range a day was opening up. (A month after the Top Gun gathering, Lula would sign a decree taking gun restrictions even further and aiming to force the closure of hundreds of ranges. The decree is being challenged in court.) The network of gun clubs now operating across Brazil taps into a strategy the US industry has long known as its most v ­ aluable: emphasizing face-to-face gatherings. It’s why the NSSF holds so many in-person meetings—SHOT Show in January, a members visit to Congress in April, an expo for shooting ranges in Wisconsin in July, a conference for Checking the target at a shooting tournament in Peru Mansueto at the Top Gun club in Florianópolis October 23, 2023 exporters and ATF officials in Washington in August. The NRA and Safari Club hold almost as many national meetups. But the small on-the-ground events at shooting ranges form the backbone of gun culture in the US, and advocates in Latin America are re-creating that. “Unfortunately, some people, and specifically this government, they have no idea what it means to spend a weekend at a shooting range—the emotion, the importance,” Salesio Nuhs, CEO of Taurus Armas SA, the biggest Brazilian maker of guns, tells the crowd gathered at Top Gun as he sits on a tufted leather couch atop a stage erected for the occasion. In front of him are a film and sound crew, and behind them, on the back wall, giant American and Brazilian flags hang side by side. Over the next 12 hours, during a YouTube livestream to promote the upcoming competition, set to take place at 1,500 shooting ranges across Brazil, every type of pro-gun personality will cross the stage, sit in the Top Gun podcasting booth or participate in mini-­ challenges at the range. There’s the mixed martial artist Thiago Santos, known as Marreta (Portuguese for “sledgehammer”), for whom shooting is a rare opportunity for alpha male bonding. “That’s exactly why we’re here, so that people can come and get to know the industry,” he says. “How pleasant it is to meet up with your friends, go to the range, practice shooting and exchange ideas, right?” The lawyer Luciano Lara draws parallels between the US Second Amendment and Brazil’s Constitution, which guarantees the right to life in one of the most violent nations in the world. “We must have the means to enforce that guarantee,” he says. And the priest Edivaldo Ferreira says the Bible demands that a man protect his family. Joining them is Edilaine Mansueto, a shooting instructor who says guns make women safer. It’s “one of the great equalizers,” she says. The gathering is organic, the movement homegrown. There are no US industry lobbyists lurking in the corner or clearing speeches. They really don’t need to be there. Nuhs, who’s traveled to SHOT Show every year for three decades, says the gun culture in Brazil is now self-­sustaining and getting stronger. “It’s not as simple as just bringing American gun culture here,” he says. Brazilians are ready to carry the flag themselves. “Once you create that culture, there’s no going back.” That appears to be true in Peru as well. Guerra, the importer who’s been to SHOT Show several times with US government help, says the American pause on exports to Peru has merely meant his business now goes to other countries. Saldias also has a story showing how entrenched Peru’s gun culture is. In early August, the country’s version of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives quietly proposed rolling back gun ownership rights. As soon as he got wind of it, Saldias says, he started working the phones. He secured $3,000 from Peruvian gun importers to cover a trip to Lima. There, he spent two weeks lobbying Congress and successfully squashed the effort before it could gain momentum. “I didn’t need Safari Club’s help this time,” Saldias says. “I already knew what to do.” <BW> �With Eric Fan, Michael Riley and David Kocieniewski 37 The famously blunt founder of Lululemon is putting $100 million into curing the rare muscle-wasting disease he was diagnosed with decades ago. True to form, his approach is highly aggressive and not without its critics By Ari Altstedter Photograph by Alana Paterson O 38 n the outskirts of Silicon Valley, at a private clinic inside a two-story office ­building near the highway, Chip Wilson was undergoing an experimental medical procedure to retain the use of his legs. Wilson is 68 and has a net worth of $7.1 ­billion, thanks largely to his development in the late 1990s of a type of yoga pants he could sell to women for $100 a pair. The company he founded, Lululemon Athletica, more or less invented an apparel category, athleisure, which it continued to dominate even after he stepped away in 2013 following some particularly insensitive comments about how the pants looked on some women’s bodies. Unknown to the public, throughout his long career Wilson was watching his own body slowly waste away from muscular dystrophy. Lying supine as Matt Cook, the clinic’s proprietor, ran an ultrasound wand over his legs, Wilson surveyed the damage the disease had done. Where images of healthy muscles are largely black, with only specks and striations of white indicating fat, Wilson’s were heavily marbled. “His muscles kind of look like Kobe beef,” Cook remarked. It was the result of inflammation, the first stage of the muscle death wrought by the disease. Cook, who started off as an anesthesiologist before getting into regenerative medicine, has been using two experimental techniques to stem or even reverse the process. The one Wilson was undergoing involves injecting plasma distilled from his own blood into the inflamed areas, a treatment long used by professional athletes to overcome injury but unproven against muscular dystrophy. The other involves injections of stem cells, which secrete a protein Cook thinks might work even better. Because stem cell therapies are restricted in the US, Wilson’s twice-yearly sessions require him to fly from Vancouver, where he lives, to Tijuana, Mexico, stopping to pick up Cook on the way. To say that such a course of treatment would be out of reach for the average ­person is an understatement. But Wilson figures he has about five years until this disease puts him in a wheelchair, and the sessions with Cook represent only a fraction of what he’s spending, and enduring, to save himself. The form of the disease Wilson has is FSHD, for facioscapulohumeral muscular dystrophy. It affects about 1 in 8,333 people, and he has the even rarer Type 2 version, which afflicts only 5% of those who have FSHD. The pharmaceutical industry has been reluctant to invest in finding a cure, as there aren’t enough patients to justify the cost. So last year, Wilson announced he would invest $100 million of his own money to do it. He’s taken stakes in biotech startups, organized conferences and tried experimental treatments such as Cook’s. It’s the highest-profile example to date of an emerging funding model designed to tailor medical research to the most acute needs of the ultrawealthy. For the estimated 870,000 patients worldwide who share Wilson’s diagnosis, the initiative has brought new hope. But it also raises ethical questions about who gets to decide which diseases find a cure. As many as 10,000 known diseases are at least as rare as Wilson’s, and FSHD likely isn’t the lowest-hanging fruit. By putting such a fortune into curing one form of muscular dystrophy, he’s drawing away resources and attention that might otherwise be devoted to some other awful disease that could be more widespread or more curable. He’s blunt in acknowledging this is an advantage his money brings, noting that he’s drawn the world’s foremost experts on muscle disorders into his orbit. And if a cure does come along, he’ll likely be first in line. To Wilson, who once decorated Lululemon tote bags with quotations from Atlas Shrugged, this is capitalism working as it should. He readily concedes his initiative is self-interested but argues that’s exactly what’s leading him to bet on long shots where no one else would. Wilson says billionaires ­motivated by conditions affecting them personally can fill gaps in the research pipeline that government and the pharmaceutical industry have left unaddressed. They might be the most immediate beneficiaries, but others’ lives will improve, too. The Fight o Bloomberg Businessweek Month October 00, 23, 2023 2023 of Chip Wilson’s Life Bloomberg Businessweek “My time is limited,” Wilson said, underscoring, as Cook prepared to begin the treatment, how soon he expects to need a wheelchair. For an hour and a half, 20 syringes of yellow, ­viscous plasma were injected one by one into Wilson’s back and legs, leaving him gasping in pain. On the ultrasound monitor, he could see blocks of white fat being broken up with black plasma, like patterns shifting in a lava lamp. “I have the right amount of money at the right time,” he said. “And I’m willing to take the risks.” W 40 ilson was diagnosed with FSHD in 1987, at age 32, and afterward mostly tried to ignore it, continuing to live a life that had always revolved around sports. He’d swum competitively as a child, played football in college and gotten deep enough into snowboarding that he started a company making apparel for it. He competed in an Ironman triathlon at 28. But when he started complaining of back pain in his early 30s, he only needed to take off his shirt for a doctor to see that he had muscular dystrophy. Wilson’s triceps were already disappearing, and loss of muscle in his lower back was forcing him to compensate with a distinctive slouching posture called swayback. Muscular dystrophy is a group of genetic diseases that cause progressive muscle weakness in different parts of the body. For many people, symptoms begin to appear in childhood. FSHD, which most often affects the face, shoulders and upper arms first, can eventually make it impossible for patients to close their eyes when they sleep, render speaking difficult and rob them of the use of their arms and legs. Wilson was lucky: His disease was progressing slowly, and he figured that as long as he could walk he’d be fine. He carried on running his unprofitable snowboard apparel company until 1997, when he sold it after 18 years. Unsure what to do next, he considered becoming a barista. He’d remained physically active since October 23, 2023 getting his diagnosis, though, striking on yoga to help manage his back pain; that led to an idea to make apparel catering to his largely female classmates. Wilson developed a proprietary fabric for stretchy, skintight pants and began making and selling the line under the name Lululemon. He’s said he designed the pants to make women’s butts look good, crediting the choice to his being one of the few straight men making women’s apparel at the time. He also benefited from timing: Lululemon’s sleek products hit the scene just as yoga was making its North American breakout from hippie hobby to mainstream wellness staple. The company was at the forefront of this craze; over the following decade and a half, Wilson did more than perhaps anyone else to make wearing exercise gear outside the gym not only acceptable but cool. Everyone from Gap Inc. to high-­fashion houses piled into the market he created. Along the way, Wilson developed a reputation for saying retro­grade, tone-deaf things. In 2004 he told a Canadian magazine he’d come up with the name Lululemon because the “L” sound doesn’t exist in Japanese, and “it’s funny to watch them try and say it.” (He later denied making the comment, saying the name stemmed from his belief that the “L” sound would lend cachet in Japan because it would signal the brand as authentically American.) The next year he told a Canadian newspaper that plus-size clothes were a money loser because they require 30% more fabric. And in a 2009 blog post, since taken down, Wilson linked rises in the divorce rate to the introduction of the birth control pill, and the increased prevalence of breast c­ ancer to “cigarette-smoking power women who were on the pill.” “I have the right amount of money at the right time. And Bloomberg Businessweek Wilson undergoing treatment in California and Vancouver starting to go, and with them his dreams of an active old age. “That was a wake-up call,” he remembers. He realized that, at the rate of progression he was seeing, he’d be in a wheelchair within 10 years. He had to do something, and fast. W ilson’s fortune lends a curiously corporate flavor to his private life. At the hip brick-and-beam headquarters of his family office in Vancouver, the weekly all-hands meeting moves fluidly between the two subjects. The value of Wilson’s Amer stake is discussed alongside his son’s yacht club application. A suggestion about selling some Lululemon stock is followed by family-reunion planning. A conversation about visa applications for another of his sons turns to the branding of two other companies Wilson owns. It’s like a C-suite crossed with a household staff—university-educated professionals tackling corporate strategy and mundane chores with equal gravity. So when it came to his health crisis, Wilson’s natural first step was to commission a study from the consulting company McKinsey. The analysts came back with a plan that crossed venture capitalism with nonprofit research funding. For Wilson to have any hope of finding a cure for his disease, they said, he’d have to deploy his fortune against a notorious bottleneck in the modern drug development process: the Valley of Death. In the world of pharma, basic scientific research is relatively cheap and well funded by governments. This means things such as animal experiments, cell studies or investigations of specific genes, all of which can help establish potential therapies. In the US, the National Institutes of Health provides about $29 billion a year for such endeavors. Once a potential therapy emerging from this pipeline is shown to be promising and safe enough to be tested in humans, there’s a healthy ecosystem of companies and investors willing to risk the much greater sums required to (they hope) get it the rest of the way. The private sector spends about $64 billion on that each year in the US alone. Between those two stages lies the Valley of Death. It encompasses the risky, exhausting, frustrating process of figuring out which academic idea to pursue, determining how to make it a deliverable product and doing the animal tests necessary to prove it’s safe. It was at this step—demonstrating that specific therapies weren’t toxic at the doses needed to be ­effective—that the Dutch company into which Wilson had poured $30 million kept stumbling. In that, it’s not unique: The NIH estimates that the Valley of Death (which it calls the “translational gap”) is where as many as 90% of new therapies fail. McKinsey advised that, to increase his odds of finding a cure, Wilson should usher as many potential therapies through the Valley as possible. This meant making smaller bets but more of them, and adding money only as treatments cleared hurdles. Wilson’s philanthropic efforts have included pledging C$100 million ($73.5 ­million) to protect vast tracts of British Columbia wilderness, helping build a design school and backing a long-­standing effort to build schools in Ethiopia. For this highly personal quest, he I’m willing to take the risks” 41 PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS BY RYAN YOUNG FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK (3); PHOTOGRAPH BY ALANA PETERSON FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK The final straw at Lululemon came after a manufacturing defect resulted in some of its signature black yoga pants being too sheer, making them transparent when some women put them on. The company had to recall almost one-fifth of its inventory. Wilson then compounded the public-­relations disaster by going on Bloomberg Television and saying that “some ­women’s bodies just don’t work” for the pants. He identified the problem specifically as “rubbing through the thighs.” For a company built on making women feel good about their body, the comments were especially damaging. Wilson posted an apology video to YouTube, but it was addressed only to Lululemon’s employees and not its customers. With late-night TV hosts mocking him and the company’s share price plummeting, he resigned his post as chairman. Two years later he sold half his shares and gave up his seat on the board. Throughout this time, Wilson’s muscles continued to deteriorate, though at a slow enough pace that his life felt manageable. He’d given up yoga when balance became too difficult, then squash when he couldn’t raise his racket above his head. But by the time he left Lululemon, he could still tackle a grueling mountain hike near Vancouver multiple times a week. He was looking forward to walking around Europe with his wife after retirement, and he drew comfort from genetic tests showing he hadn’t passed the disease to any of his five sons. Flush with cash after his sale of Lululemon stock, he invested in a Dutch biotech startup working on the type of muscular dystrophy he has, but he felt no real sense of urgency to find a cure. That all changed on a trip to China around New Year’s 2019. Wilson was in the process of closing his biggest deal since leaving Lululemon, teaming up with the Chinese apparel giant Anta Sports Products to buy Amer Sports Oy, the owner of Wilson, Salomon, Arc’teryx and other sporting and outdoor goods brands. He’d just stepped past Chinese customs when he fell on the polished marble floor. Picking himself up, embarrassed and unable to explain what had happened, Wilson walked another 20 feet, then fell again. He realized his legs were finally October 23, 2023 Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 set aside $100 million and hired Eva Chin, a veteran pharma targeting the gene using RNA technology similar to what was executive with a doctorate in physiology, to distribute it through used to create Covid-19 vaccines. An initiative to develop ways Solve FSHD, a funding body he unveiled in 2022. An elegant to measure if potential drugs are effective and recruit patients woman of 61 years with a runner’s air of healthful spryness, Chin for potential trials got $2.8 million. And Solve put $10 million had spent her career in early-stage drug development, essen- into Vita Therapeutics, which was working on a way to replace tially trying to shepherd therapies through the Valley of Death. defective cells with working ones in patients who have another Nowhere was the problem more starkly illustrated than during form of muscular dystrophy—potentially both curing their disan early stint at Pfizer. “People in marketing would shoot down a ease and regenerating the muscle they’d lost. After receiving lot of the things we would work on in rare diseases,” she recalls. the investment from Wilson’s organization, Vita announced “They just wouldn’t merit the business case on the other end.” it would develop a drug for FSHD as well. So far, Solve has Chin came to suspect this was ­distributed more than $30 million. a problem money could solve. “If you’re going to be in a foxhole, being in one Because pharma companies and with Chip Wilson feels a little less suffocating,” says investors who seed small bioCraig Kelley, a 53-year-old FSHD patient. Kelley, tech startups often have a dozen who has difficulty going up stairs and can’t take off or more potential therapies to a T-shirt without bracing himself, guesses the odds choose from each year, ones of a cure have “tripled” since Wilson got involved. that fail early-stage animal trials “I hope anybody with any kind of long-term disabilfor toxicity and effectiveness are ity can have a bit of a game changer like Chip.” frequently abandoned. Chin surmised that some of these ideas ilson’s house is the most expensive in could work given more time to Vancouver. It’s a low-slung, brutalist strucfine-tune details such as chemture stretching over a wide lot in a tony area of the istry, dosage or delivery mechacity. Floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors take “People in marketing would shoot nism. And sometimes a therapy up practically its entire north side, opening almost down a lot of the things we would was dropped simply because the every room to views of English Bay and the Strait of work on in rare diseases. They just basic scientific infrastructure Georgia beyond. The grounds feature a sculpture by wouldn’t merit the business case needed to test it, such as a regKaws, one living room has a green waterfall, and a on the other end” istry of potential trial patients, staff of three keeps things running smoothly. didn’t exist. Wilson gave Chin a chance to lay some of this Chin At the mansion’s eastern end, Wilson has an office groundwork and be more patient than ­others, if the therapies decorated with family photos, including a few of his were applicable to his disease. younger self at the beach, showing off a full head of hair and The two of them modeled their efforts after a precedent an athlete’s physique. On this day a massage table was set up that had shown spectacular results. Between 2016 and 2020, in the room, with Wilson lying on it facedown, having electric the number of drugs available for a rare disease called spinal currents pumped directly into his muscles through a network of muscular atrophy had gone from zero to three. Most infants acupuncture needles stuck in his back—another of the unproven who’ve been diagnosed with it now see drastically improved treatments he’s pursuing. He also goes for IV drips of the natuoutcomes, which has led some to consider the disease effec- rally occurring metabolic enzyme NAD, which he’s hoping will tively cured. This progress is largely credited to the work of supercharge his cells’ energy-producing mitochondria to keep the SMA Foundation, which was founded, funded and run by them from breaking down or even help them regenerate. And he a single wealthy couple, Loren Eng, a former Morgan Stanley takes testosterone daily, as well as weekly doses of the drug rapabanker, and her husband, Dinakar Singh, co-founder and chief mycin, which is usually given to recipients of organ transplants executive officer of hedge fund TPG-Axon Capital Management. and has recently been shown to reduce age-related muscle loss. The two started the foundation in 2003, after their daughter Chin acts as a sort of informal scientific adviser on these perwas diagnosed with SMA. It dedicated more than $100 million sonal experiments. Mainly she tries to make sure Wilson isn’t to exactly the kind of early-stage grunt work McKinsey rec- doing anything outright dangerous, talking him out of the more ommended to Wilson: funding as many preclinical trials for pie-in-the-sky ideas and pushing him to be rigorous about the promising drugs as possible, building up patient registries and more plausible ones. She’s philosophic about this part of her establishing clear models to test if a therapy worked. These job, pointing out that, with other diseases, some good ideas have advances attracted partnerships with the pharma industry, come from patients, and that elite athletes and other people of eventually resulting in breakthroughs. means have long pushed the boundaries of medicine, testing With Wilson wanting the same kind of success in less than things out on themselves. And some result in therapies. Solve is a third of the time, Chin got to work investing. She put $3 mil- now working on staging a clinical trial of Matt Cook’s stem cell lion into a company exploring ways to inhibit the gene widely injections in the US, the first step to determining whether they believed to cause FSHD, and another $1 million into a company work and making them available to anyone without a private jet. 42 PHOTOGRAPH BY ALANA PATERSON FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK W Bloomberg Businessweek But when I suggested to Wilson that trying so many ­therapies at once might make it harder to know which is working, and in turn to reproduce the results in other people, he dismissed the alternative. Testing them one at a time “would take too long,” he said. This emphasis on what works for him versus what might work for others (and what others might be able to afford) is a core ethical quandary of Wilson’s pursuit. It’s a conflict some have observed in the SMA Foundation as well. In 2021, Harvard Business School published a case study praising its effectiveness while also noting that, after its initial successes developing therapies that could cure newly diagnosed infants, the founders had continued pouring money into treatments for older patients such as their daughter. Some physicians, the study said, questioned this decision. With SMA effectively cured, and only a smaller subset of an already small patient pool likely to benefit, the physicians argued that the foundation could do more good by shifting its expertise to tackling other underserved rare diseases or focusing on bringing down the prices of the drugs it had already helped create. (When asked about the criticism, SMA Foundation CEO Karen Chen stressed in a statement that older patients still have “­significant unmet needs” and that some of the foundation’s work could benefit people with diseases such as FSHD and ALS as well. She told the Harvard study’s authors that the best way the foundation could lower prices was to increase competition by bringing more therapies to market.) For Millan Patel, research director of the Rare Disease Foundation in Vancouver, this kind of funding compounds what’s already the biggest frustration in his field. Patel holds that many rare conditions could be easier to cure than diabetes, cancer, heart disease and others. But they don’t get a fraction of the money and brainpower because they carry the same costs and risks associated with crossing the Valley of Death while offering pharma companies fewer potential customers. Patel agrees with Wilson and Chin that billionaires can provide a solution, but he points out that if they spend their money only on the most intractable rare diseases, and only because they or a family member has one of them, the greater good is underserved. “At Rare Disease Foundation, we fund the best ideas that are most likely to make a major improvement in a rare disease over a limited period,” he says. Wealthy patients, by contrast, “will put money toward something and just go at it for as long as they have to. That’s a misallocation of resources.” In the case of Wilson’s condition, the McKinsey report noted that researchers had so far tended to eschew working on it in favor of “easier” diseases. Even Chin acknowledges FSHD isn’t one of those. With SMA, there had been widespread scientific agreement that manipulating one gene could bring a relatively straightforward cure, but FSHD appears to arise from variations of a gene’s expression over time—an epigenetic cause as opposed to a straight genetic one, which requires a more complicated fix. Wilson’s focus on Type 2 FSHD may make that harder still and potentially benefit fewer people if he’s successful. Yet the more money he sinks into it, the more likely other research dollars, whether from investors, October 23, 2023 com­panies or government granting agencies, will follow. That, too, raises questions about the influence of ­billionaires. If wealthy patients become “a major way for money to flow into funding research, that’s where institutions and scientists will have to go, into researching diseases that affect the very richest,” says Monica Magalhaes, associate director of the Center for Population-Level Bioethics at Rutgers University. “Donors may have self-interested or altruistic motivations, or both, but the result is still that donations to specific diseases that affect them will distort research priorities more generally.” I put these points to Wilson as he lay on the massage table, the needles in his back twitching and quivering with electricity. I expected him to be evasive, but illness hadn’t dulled his propensity for speaking his mind. I’d inquired about his departure from Lululemon, and he blamed it on an early form of online cancellation, driven by women “whose life isn’t working for them.” He was similarly brash addressing the ethical questions around his research initiative. “If the very rich are putting their money into it, they’re going to have the most access to where the medicine is, what the drugs are,” Wilson said. “They’re willing to take the risks which are outside of pharma. Pharma has to assess risk in terms of return for their shareholders, where a high-net-worth individual solving it for themselves, or their family, is an incredible motivator.” He explained that he thinks the very rich, motivated not by money but by survival, can create more effective funding and research organizations than the ones that currently exist. Their resources allow them to attract top talent with more ­generous salaries, while the entrepreneurialism that made them rich in the first place—not to mention the highly personal stakes—brings a discipline and focus on results that’s missing from charities and government organizations. Wilson isn’t just a successful capitalist, he’s a true believer. He’d earlier told me capitalism has “created everything good in the world.” And he argued bluntly for the prerogatives of those who’ve won at it. It’s his money, he pointed out, and who could fault him doing whatever it takes to cure himself? Even among those who’ve thought about these issues most deeply, it’s a position that evokes some sympathy. “I promise you, if it was my family member who had the rare disease, I’d of course be out there arguing you should allocate that money to the rare disease,” says Alison Bateman-House, an assistant professor and ethicist at the Grossman School of Medicine at New York University. And she says that, as long as the results are made public, there’s a moral case for narrowly self-­interested medical research. “Even if this is all focused on one form of muscular dystrophy, there are going to be other things you can learn about it that would potentially be of use to other muscular diseases, or how genes work in general, or what side effects to look out for. I’m of the belief that research is a public good.” Like any good capitalist, Wilson asks only that he be judged on his results. “The beautiful thing about it is that by taking care of it for themselves or their family, it solves it for everyone,” he said. “Where’s the incentive for all the hard work they’ve done if they can’t do that?” <BW> 43 Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 The Indian Premier League turned a once-staid sport into global ratings gold— and a magnet for controversy 44 It’s Cricket Night in India— and Maybe Soon in America, Too By Chris Kay Illustration by Cleon Peterson E arlier this year, a churning crowd streamed into Narendra Modi Stadium, in the western Indian city of Ahmedabad. Electronic beats pounded from speakers, competing with police officers’ whistles. As the 100,000-plus spectators took their seats, a succession of Bollywood stars appeared on the field, performing pregame dance routines. Then a salvo of fireworks arched overhead, marking the start of the main event: the first game of the 16th season of Indian Premier League cricket. “IPL is a festival,” said Rajat Tiwari, one of the fans who’d come to watch the showdown between the Gujarat Titans, then the league’s defending champions, and the equally formidable Chennai Super Kings. A marketing manager in his 20s who was drinking can after can of Predator energy drinks, Tiwari is one of the millions of Indians, many of them professionals in its growing middle class, who’ve helped turn the IPL into one of the world’s most lucrative sports competitions. He was transfixed by the spectacle around him, as a booming announcer led the crowd in chants. During quiet moments in play, trumpet calls blasted across the stands. After Moeen Ali, an English batter for the Super Kings, was apparently caught out by the Titans, the game was stopped, and the stadium’s speakers played a thumping-heartbeat sound effect, signaling that off-field officials were reviewing the tape. A few tense moments later, Gujarat fans began to roar: Ali was indeed out. 45 Bloomberg Businessweek Super Kings captain ­Dhoni at bat last-­minute heroics weren’t enough to clinch victory, the next day the batsman would be mobbed by fans at Ahmedabad airport, chants of “Dhoni, Dhoni” echoing through the terminal. Dhoni didn’t have much time to linger. The Super Kings were due to play three days later in Chennai, the next stage in a run that would take them all the way to a victory in the championship final in May—the most-watched game in IPL history. In all, between TV and streaming platforms, the season attracted almost a billion viewers. F or Americans, the closest analog to cricket is ­baseball, which cricket may have partly inspired in the 19th century. In cricket, two batters at each end of a central strip scramble back and forth to score runs, which they can also do by hitting the ball to the edge of the ground or beyond. Behind each batter are the wickets: three upright poles topped with removable wooden cylinders. If a bowler—cricket’s equivalent of a pitcher—­succeeds in knocking over one of the wickets with the ball, the batter is “dismissed,” or out. As in baseball, batters are also dismissed if they hit a ball that’s caught by a member of the fielding team. An “innings” ends when 10 batters have been dismissed. (Confusingly for baseball fans, cricket uses the plural.) After the British introduced the game to the subcontinent, Indians embraced it with unparalleled fervor. Today cricket is played everywhere from manicured grounds in Mumbai’s poshest quarters to open patches in slums, where children use weathered planks of wood as bats. But until surprisingly recently, no one had managed to create a big-money Indian professional league. Instead, the focus of popular attention was the national squad and the matches—multiday “tests” and shorter “oneday internationals”—it played against other major cricketing powers, which include Australia, England, Pakistan and South Africa. Despite the prestige of these games, many struggled to attract big crowds, in part because of shoddy organization. For example, at this month’s Cricket World Cup, which India is hosting, fans have complained of ticketing chaos, with last-­ minute venue changes, tickets put on sale only on the day of a match and banks of empty seats. England does have a domestic league, known as “county cricket.” But by the early 2000s, it was struggling with a shrinking fan base. Stuart Robertson, then a young marketing manager at the England and Wales Cricket Board, commissioned surveys to pinpoint the causes. “The people who were then coming to domestic cricket—not rocket science— were middle-aged, middle-class White men,” Robertson says. Women, young people and members of ethnic minorities reported being put off by the length of games and the ­tea-and-­cucumber-sandwiches vibe of cricket grounds. “It’s also really boring for a lot of people,” he adds. Robertson had an idea: compressing games into just two sets of 20 “overs.” (An over is a sequence of six bowled deliveries to an opposing team.) His proposal succeeded, and England’s first professional T20 tournament was held SURJEET YADAV/AP.JERSEYS: COURTESY TEAMS 46 Since its creation in 2008, the IPL has married Americanstyle marketing with the glitz of Bollywood and the energy of India’s vast population, turning a sport that was long a financial laggard into a corporate juggernaut. Despite a season that runs for just eight weeks each spring, bidders recently paid a total of $6.2 billion for the right to broadcast IPL games through 2027. That works out at $15.1 million per match, more than soccer’s English Premier League and just behind the $17 million networks pay for each game in the National Football League in the US. The IPL’s central strategic move was to discard cricket’s traditional format, involving five-day matches with breaks for players to have tea, and adopt a simplified set of rules known as Twenty20, or T20. Lasting a broadcast-friendly three or four hours, T20 encourages big, risky swings and frequent “sixes,” cricket’s equivalent of a home run. The IPL appalled traditionalists by adding charismatic announcers, NFL-esque team names—the Kolkata Knight Riders, Delhi Capitals and so on—and even cheerleaders. The model has inspired a wave of copycat tournaments in other countries, including the US. Some of the IPL’s other attributes, however, are less worthy of emulation. Since its founding, the league has been dogged by corruption scandals, including allegations of bid-rigging, tax evasion and insider deals. Entire teams have been sanctioned and even suspended for conflicts of interest and involvement in illegal gambling. The IPL has nonetheless proved irresistible in India, where cricket inspires intense devotion. Toward the end of the Ahmedabad match, the Super Kings’ captain, Mahendra Singh Dhoni, stepped into the crease for his turn to bat. With his side trailing, the pressure on the 42-year-old veteran, who’s led India to multiple international victories, was intense. With moments to go, Dhoni sent the leather ball soaring beyond the pitch, delivering a six for the Super Kings. The crowd erupted; a giant screen flashed “MAXIMUM.” Even though his October 23, 2023 Bloomberg Businessweek in 2003. Four years later the Indian national team played in the inaugural T20 World Cup. The matches were a sensation, not least because India defeated its archrival, Pakistan, in a contest that drew 48 million viewers. One of the Indians most impressed by the tournament was Lalit Modi, the chain-­smoking, name-­dropping scion of a family with interests in chemicals, tea and tobacco. (He’s not related to India’s prime minister, Narendra Modi.) Partial to Armani suits and flashy cars, Modi was ostentatious even by the standards of the Indian business elite. He had attended Duke University in the mid-1980s, where he was struck by the mass appeal of the NFL. “Fat guys running around a field chasing a ball. Everybody was glued to it,” he marveled later. But Modi’s time in the US took a dark turn after he and some fellow students were robbed at gunpoint by a man they thought was about to sell them half a kilo of cocaine. They then attacked the person they suspected of setting them up. Modi pleaded guilty to a drug charge as well as misdemeanor assault and false imprisonment, and received a two-year suspended sentence. He later returned to India, where he joined the family business and set up a TV network. On the side he eventually secured a position as the vice president of the Board of Control for Cricket in India (BCCI), a powerful, opaque body that regulates the national team and all domestic tournaments. There he spotted the commercial opportunities of creating a major T20 league. Modi hired IMG, the global talent agency, to entice the world’s best cricketers with salaries as high as $1.5 million—­unprecedented for the sport. He negotiated a $2 billion TV deal with Sony Corp., which has an Indian broadcasting operation, for the first 10 tournaments. And he pitched relentlessly to wealthy acquaintances such as Ness Wadia, whose family controls a major industrial conglomerate, during holidays together in Thailand. (Modi did not respond to multiple interview requests.) In January 2008, the great and good of Indian business convened at October 23, 2023 IPL Team Owners 2023 Punjab Kings Consortium including Mohit Burman, Ness Wadia and Preity Zinta Rajasthan Royals Emerging Media, RedBird Capital Partners Mumbai Indians Reliance Industries Ltd. Lucknow Super Giants RPSG Group Chennai Super Kings India Cements Ltd. Gujarat Titans CVC Capital Partners Royal Challengers Bangalore Diageo Plc/United Spirits Ltd. Sunrisers Hyderabad Sun Group Delhi Capitals GMR Group, JSW Group Kolkata Knight Riders Shah Rukh Khan, Mehta Group Wankhede Stadium, Mumbai’s premier cricket ground. Vijay Mallya, a mulleted beer baron who called himself India’s “King of Good Times,” arrived in a red Bentley, others in a procession of limousines. Petrochemicals tycoon Mukesh Ambani, now Asia’s richest man, was also present. Wadia had come with his then-­girlfriend, actress Preity Zinta; even more star power was supplied by Bollywood heartthrob Shah Rukh Khan. Modi had promised a series of sweeteners to reassure potential bidders for teams. Unlike European soccer, the usual target of sports-curious international billionaires, the IPL would have a single-tier structure, avoiding the risk of a financially ruinous relegation to a lower division. Revenue from media rights and league-level sponsorships would go into a shared pool, while teams retained control over ticket sales, merchandise and local sponsor revenue. And a salary cap (­currently $11.5 million per team), as well as a limit of four foreign players in each starting lineup, would keep expenses down and foster local talent. In the stadium boardroom, the bidders submitted sealed envelopes containing offers for the eight IPL franchises up for grabs. Ambani, prepared to write the biggest check, secured the Mumbai Indians for $112 million. Mallya claimed Royal Challengers Bangalore, while Khan acquired the Kolkata Knight Riders. Wadia, bidding with Zinta, bought Kings XI Punjab. The cheapest team to be sold, at $67 million, was the Rajasthan Royals, representing the vast, arid state on India’s northwestern plains. It went to London-based venture capitalist Manoj Badale and his partner Lachlan Murdoch, who was on hiatus from his father Rupert’s media empire. The first-ever IPL match was held three months later, between Kolkata and Bangalore. Playing for Kolkata, New Zealand’s Brendon McCullum smashed an astonishing 13 sixes, a perfect example of the excitement that IPL cricket could deliver. Off the field, the league became a focus of India’s high-society party c­ ircuit—with Modi, who zoomed from game to game in a private jet, 47 Bloomberg Businessweek October 23, 2023 serving as master of ceremonies. He orchestrated soirees in fancy hotels, where guests paid $1,000 each to rub shoulders with star cricketers and cheerleaders. Badale and Murdoch had taken a Moneyball-style approach to selecting players for the Royals, focusing on those they believed were undervalued and spending less on salaries than any other franchise. The strategy worked. Captained by the late Shane Warne, a legendary (and legendarily hard-­drinking) Australian bowler who Rajasthan had scooped up for just $450,000 after he received no other offers, the Royals defeated the Super Kings in the league final. The IPL had its first champions. Not long after, it had its first major scandal, too. E 48 ven as he climbed to the top of the Indian business world, Modi had an abrasive edge, getting into periodic feuds on social media and beyond. The most consequential was with Shashi Tharoor, an erudite lawmaker from the then-ruling Congress party. In a series of tweets in 2010, Modi accused Tharoor, at the time a junior foreign minister, of improperly helping his girlfriend win a stake in a newly created franchise in Kochi. Tharoor, in turn, alleged that Modi had tried to rig an auction for new teams. An uproar ensued. India’s tax department opened an investigation into IPL franchise sales, questioning Modi and raiding some teams’ offices. (Tharoor also resigned from his cabinet position.) Next came allegations that the league founder had accepted kickbacks and arranged cozy deals for friends and relatives. After arriving by helicopter to the IPL final in Mumbai, Modi gave a defiant speech to fans, calling his situation “a trial by the media. Nothing has been proved.” His remarks failed to sway the BCCI, whose remit includes governing the IPL. A few days later, it suspended Modi as IPL commissioner and promised a wide-ranging inquiry. He denied ­wrongdoing, arguing that his relatives bought into the IPL through open tenders at a time when other investors were hanging back. Then he claimed he was being targeted by Mumbai’s notorious organized crime groups for refusing to pay protection money. Modi soon fled to London, moving to Belgravia, a central district populated by emerging-market oligarchs, and assembling a fleet of luxury vehicles, including a Ferrari with the license plate “CRI3KET.” The BCCI eventually barred him from organized cricket in India for life after accusing him of “serious misconduct” related to allegations of bid-rigging and financial irregularities. (The BCCI disciplinary process is not a judicial proceeding, and the finding didn’t carry legal weight; a police investigation into Modi didn’t lead to charges.) Modi’s removal didn’t end the IPL’s troubles. Three years later, Badale was in London, watching on TV as the Royals lost a closely fought match with Ambani’s Mumbai Indians. His team was having an otherwise excellent s­ eason, so Badale was little bothered as he turned in for the night. The next morning, he picked up his phone and saw 16 missed calls from India. Three of Badale’s players had been arrested in overnight raids, along with 11 bookmakers. Their arrests were part of an Indian police investigation called “Operation U-turn,” which probed “spot-fixing”: the rigging of minor plays that were unlikely to affect a game’s outcome but significant enough for gamblers to bet on. Players allegedly received tens of thousands of dollars to facilitate wagers by high-end bettors and criminal syndicates, communicating through hand signals and prearranged gestures such as tucking towels into their waistbands. (There is no suggestion that Badale was involved.) The scandal expanded when a man named Gurunath Meiyappan was arrested on allegations that he’d passed on inside information about the Chennai Super Kings’ strategy. That would be bad enough. But Meiyappan happened to be the son-in-law of then-BCCI President Narayanaswami Srinivasan, who also owns the team. The matter ultimately reached the Indian Supreme Court, which ordered Srinivasan to step down and suspended the Royals and Super Kings from the IPL for two years. To signal that it was serious about dealing with graft, the BCCI hired Neeraj Kumar, a former Delhi police commissioner who’d overseen Operation U-turn, to head an in-house anti-­ corruption unit. But his work was “totally ignored,” Kumar tells Bloomberg Businessweek, and he was given few resources. “I was just there to tick a box,” he says. Later the Supreme Court stepped in again, ordering the firing of BCCI officials it said were delaying reforms. It also appointed an independent committee of auditors to oversee a further cleanup. Kumar argues that those changes didn’t go far enough, making further scandal inevitable. “It’ll come sooner rather than later and catch everybody napping,” he says. (The BCCI didn’t respond to requests for comment.) It appears, however, that no amount of perceived wrong­ doing can shake the appeal of the IPL. “It is one of the most powerful brands in our portfolio,” says Hina Nagarajan, head of India at liquor giant Diageo Plc, which took over Royal Challengers Bangalore after buying Mallya’s spirits business. Even as the Covid-19 pandemic forced games into a ­spectator-free bubble in the United Arab Emirates for two seasons, the BCCI created a pair of new teams, the Lucknow Super Giants and Gujarat Titans. Indian conglomerate RPSG Group paid $940 million for the Lucknow franchise, while CVC Capital Partners, the buyout firm that formerly owned Formula One, bought the Titans for $750 million. The BCCI also set up a women’s T20 league, whose five teams sold for a combined $580 million. SUPER KINGS: ZUMA PRESS/ALAMY “Any startup that scales as rapidly as the IPL is going to have turbulence” Bloomberg Businessweek A larger IPL meant more games, and thus bigger media contracts. In an auction last year, Viacom18—a joint venture between entertainment group Paramount Global and Ambani’s Reliance Industries Ltd.—paid about $3 billion for five years of streaming rights. Walt Disney Co. spent roughly the same for traditional TV. Sports industry veterans were stunned; the total was three times higher than in the previous IPL auction. The rising tide has lifted even the previously suspended Rajasthan Royals, who finished second in the 2022 season. According to Badale, they’ve been an “outstanding” investment, with a 30% profit margin. RedBird Capital Partners, the New York-based owner of soccer club AC Milan, now has a 15% stake, and the team is branching out internationally, setting up subsidiary squads in Barbados and South Africa. Badale says the problems of the IPL’s early years are now firmly in the past. “Was the tournament and was the league slow to professionalize and ensure complete transparency around its governance?” he asks. “Of course. Any startup that scales as rapidly as the IPL is going to have turbulence.” I n a remote valley in the foothills of the Himalayas, Dharamshala is an improbable, if spectacular, location for a major sporting event. The city is best known as the home of the Dalai Lama, and outside the cricket ground on a recent evening, red-robed Buddhist monks shared the narrow, winding roads with bumper-to-bumper car traffic. In the stadium, IPL Chairman Arun Singh Dhumal stroked his pointed beard as he looked over the crowd from a corporate box. About 23,000 people had come to watch one of the last games of the season, between Rajasthan and Punjab. Slim and dressed in a purple batik shirt, Dhumal was joined for the occasion by his brother Anurag Thakur, a sports minister in India’s federal government. Even though neither team was likely to secure a playoff spot, Dhumal noted approvingly that the stadium was packed. Constructed two decades ago, the facility was a passion project for Dhumal and Thakur’s family, which is a prominent political dynasty in the region. “Everybody laughed” when the idea was first proposed, said Thakur, who before entering the cabinet was among the BCCI officials ordered to step down by the Supreme Court for failing to implement reforms. (At the time, Thakur said he accepted the decision.) Theirs is one of several powerful, politically connected clans that are deeply rooted in the running of Indian cricket. This alignment between politics and sport is no coincidence. “For anything that you need to do in this country, you need some political support or administrative backing,” Dhumal said. Nightfall soon obscured the mountains above the floodlit pitch, and the game unfolded in classic IPL fashion. With each wicket taken, the crowd cheered with such energy that a spectator’s smartwatch dinged repeatedly with alerts that the noise exceeded safe limits. As the fifth Punjab batter was caught out, Thakur—who’d been posing for endless rounds of selfies and talking with various dignitaries—­grumbled that the team had lost too many wickets. Batting second, the October 23, 2023 The Super Kings celebrate after winning the IPL championship in May Royals were set back when star English batter Jos Buttler was ­dismissed for a “duck”: an innings with no runs. But they rallied with a pair of 50-run performances from Yashasvi Jaiswal and Devdutt Padikkal. Then Dhruv Jurel, a 22-year-old phenom from Uttar Pradesh, bashed out a final six, securing a win for the Royals with just two balls left. The IPL final, between Gujarat and Chennai, was held a couple of weeks later. Many expected his team’s victory to be the last professional game for Dhoni, the storied Super Kings captain. But the fame and fortune the IPL brings is hard to give up. “The tough thing for me is to work hard for another nine months and come back and play at least one more season of IPL,” the adored cricketer said during the post-match trophy ceremony. “It won’t be easy for me, but the way they [fans] have shown their love and affection, it’s something I need to do for them.” Attempts to replicate the IPL formula overseas are getting more serious. Major League Cricket, a US upstart part-funded by Satya Nadella and Shantanu Narayen—the chief executive officers of Microsoft Corp. and Adobe Inc., respectively—­ concluded its first season in July, with MI New York defeating the Seattle Orcas for the championship. IPL franchises are part-owners of four of MLC’s six teams, and several top IPL players, including South African batsman Faf du Plessis, are playing in both leagues. MLC is counting on the US’s 5 ­million-strong Indian diaspora to generate initial interest. In the longer term, it hopes to develop a cohort of American stars who’ll build up cricket’s stateside appeal. Still, even wild success for MLC, or the new T20 contests in South Africa, the UAE and other countries, would hardly dent the IPL’s commercial dominance. Many of the world’s top players are already booked up, posing hurdles for new leagues. Just as important, the BCCI essentially bars Indian cricketers from joining overseas competitions. Some officials and players elsewhere complain that India is monopolizing global cricket, with no one else able to match its resources. But for the IPL’s backers, all this is a welcome reversal of post-colonial history and a reflection of the country’s growing financial and geopolitical weight. “Why should that be criticized?” Dhumal asks. “We are proud that we’re an economic powerhouse.” <BW> 49 For years the ski industry has been dominated by corporate consolidation. Now independently owned mountains are having their moment in the sun By Gordy Megroz The Rise of The Indies P U R S U I T S The Ski Issue 55 New essentials in case of avalanche 56 This season’s best puffer coats 58 Resort expansions you need to ski to believe 59 A perfectly useless tote for the après hours October 23, 2023 Edited by Chris Rovzar Businessweek.com The aerial tram at Jackson Hole climbs 4,139 feet and offers access to backcountry skiing 51 Bloomberg Pursuits I 52 n the ski industry in recent years, the murmurs around every independent resort have been the same: How long until Vail Resorts Inc. or Alterra Mountain Co. comes and plants its flag? In 2008, Alterra didn’t exist, and Vail owned just five mountains. Today the two represent more than half the skiable terrain in the US—and counting. But in 2023 it’s looking likely that independent mountains will have a moment to shine. While residents around many newly acquired Alterra and Vail resorts criticize the corporate tendency to put profit above community, and visitors grow frustrated with the massive crowds driven by the companies’ respective Ikon and Epic passes, indies are drawing new customers. And crucially, they’re also finding lifelines in prominent investors. This year the number of resorts included in the Indy Pass, which for $399 offers two days of skiing at each of its independently owned member ski areas, grew from 34 to 120. Demand was so overwhelming that sales were halted by April. The pass went back on sale in October, when another 54 resorts were added. “People want more choices beyond what they’re getting from Vail and Alterra,” says entrepreneur Doug Fish, who founded the pass in 2019. Financial backers are lining up, too. Sure, they see ski areas as good buys—but just as important, they also say they want to protect them from becoming corporate assets. In recent months, some of the country’s largest indie mountains have been acquired by new majority owners—all of whom come from outside the ski industry, including former Citigroup Inc. Chief Executive Officer Mike Corbat and Netflix Inc. co-founder Reed Hastings. Here are three stories of recently acquired independent mountains and how their owners are taking on the industry’s Goliaths. A Unicorn Goes to Utah Hastings never intended to end up at Powder Mountain, but one snowy day in 2016, after setting out in pursuit of fresh tracks at Park City Mountain Resort, the Utah resident knew it was time to try something new. “There were so many people that the trails were skied off and the powder was gone in under an hour,” he recalls. “It was like ants on a sugar cube.” It wasn’t his first experience of that disappointment. But this time he wasn’t going to settle for it. He’d heard of a ski area 90 minutes north of Park City, one with 8,484 acres of skiable terrain where skiers and snowboarders could sometimes still find powder turns days after a storm. Hastings piled his family into the car; by lunchtime they’d found the fluffy snow and well-spaced trees of the aptly named Powder Mountain. That day, they discovered what relatively few others have: Powder Mountain is a special kind of ski experience. During good winters, it gets about 500 inches of snow, which blankets steep shots and open meadows. To access some runs, you ride a Sno-Cat. To get back to the lifts from other trails, you take an old-school bus. Because it’s a bit off the beaten path and lacks hotels and amenities, Powder gets about a quarter of the October 23, 2023 traffic the Park City resorts receive. Hastings quickly decided to buy land, build a home and settle in. “We weren’t looking to move” from Park City, he says. “But the ski experience was so much better that we decided to buy a lot.” This was two years after Summit Series, a company that organizes conferences all over the world, had bought Powder Mountain, hoping to build 500 homes, as well as restaurants, bars and possibly even a neuroscience lab and high-altitude performance center to cater to its A-list patron community (think Bill Clinton, Richard Branson and Mark Cuban). But the ski infrastructure was old, and Summit struggled to maintain it. “Where we came head-to-head with reality is how difficult and capital-intensive it is to build in a mountain environment,” says Elliott Bisnow, one of the founders of Summit. “In order for Powder Mountain to move forward, it needed more capital.” Bisnow approached Hastings, whose net worth is around $4.6 billion according to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index, about buying Powder—and it took Hastings just a few weeks to say yes. His majority ownership stake was announced in September, along with a $100 million investment; Hastings tells Bloomberg he plans to direct those funds toward new lifts, lodges, roads and an improved sewer system. Bisnow says he turned down several offers from conglomerates to buy the resort. “If a big private equity company or real estate group buys Powder Mountain, by ­definition they have investors in their funds, and the investors expect certain returns,” he says. “So therefore, they want to develop as much as humanly possible. That’s not good for Powder Mountain, and it’s not good for skiers.” Hastings agrees. “I’m interested in preserving the uncrowded experience,” he says, adding this would have been impossible if Powder had been purchased “by one of the big companies.” (Powder Mountain is currently part of the Indy Pass, but Hastings says that could change if crowds come.) Remaining independent also means there’s no board to answer to—“no quarterly pressure,” as Hastings puts it, which allows him to “invest for the long term.” He’ll veer somewhat from Summit’s original master plan—­a neuroscience lab won’t be built—and instead focus on polishing up the ski area without creating attractions that might draw massive crowds. (When asked whether a hotel would be built at the ski area, Hastings said he doubted it.) And with plenty of capital, Hastings can extend bargains other ski areas probably can’t. This winter, Powder will offer one of the best lift ticket deals out there: $19 for night skiing, available to anybody, every night of the season. Keeping Jackson Hole Private On April 1, 2015, a group of snow-obsessed, Jackson Hole-based filmmakers posted a story online announcing that Jackson Hole Mountain Resort had been sold to Vail. The news sent skiers and snowboarders—as well as the local community—into a tizzy. On social media, commenters proclaimed that JHMR was finished and that it was the worst thing ever to happen to skiing. Most, it seemed, hadn’t noticed what day it was. PREVIOUS PAGE: COURTESY AMY JIMMERSON/JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT. THIS SPREAD: COURTESY POWDER MOUNTAIN SKI SPECIAL SKI SPECIAL Bloomberg Pursuits The April Fool’s prank revealed a deep sentiment: People didn’t want to see JHMR sold to a large corporation. Nobody heard that message clearer than Jay Kemmerer, whose family had owned the Wyoming ski area since 1992 and who’d since served as chairman. “Everybody was interested in buying Jackson,” says Kemmerer, who remembers getting dozens of inquiries from around the world every year. “But if I was to sell, it was very important I sell to another private owner, not a corporation.” Kemmerer says he would entertain an offer only from a buyer who’d protect the interests of Wyomingites, the community and skiers and snowboarders. Already famous for its steep skiing, daring couloirs, cliff drops and deep powder, the area’s been transformed from underdeveloped to one of the snow sports capitals of the world. The Kemmerers have added fine dining restaurants, overseen the opening of a Four Seasons hotel and upgraded lifts—including, in 2008, replacing the mountain’s signature red trams with two larger, 100-person models. In recent years they’ve also provided more beginner and intermediate terrain and built infrastructure to expand JHMR’s ski school. During 2020’s pandemic closures, though, the Kemmerers wondered if their time was up. “We were forced to shut down the ski area, and it made me think, ‘Are we gonna survive Covid?’ ” Kemmerer says. “It added a lot of stress, to the point where I thought about selling.” October 23, 2023 In April 2022, after JHMR had concluded its 60th ski s­ eason, he approached former Jefferies Financial Group Inc. banker Eric Macy, who’d spent about a year serving on the JHMR board of directors, and floated the idea of a sale. Macy was interested, and he quickly persuaded Corbat, who’d recently left his post as CEO of Citigroup, to join him in the venture. Macy says the deal, inked in August 2023, was “put together by three very close friends, getting together to figure out what’s in the best interest of the mountain.” First up for Macy and Corbat: installing a high-speed chairlift to get to some of the mountain’s most challenging terrain, which is currently accessible only by an old, slow quad. They also intend to develop the base village area, which Corbat describes as “a pretty uncrowded palette.” Teton Village, the area at the base of the mountain, has 10 hotels and a handful of dining options, but there are still hundreds of acres that can be developed. “Over time we can continue to build that out,” Corbat says. Whether that means additional grungy après-ski watering holes such as the Mangy Moose or upscale digs such as the Four Seasons—two Jackson Hole fixtures—remains to be seen. But the decisions will be made by nearby families who have no intention of going anywhere else. “Next time you hear the rumor of somebody buying Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, you can flatly deny it,” Macy says. “Our kids will run it someday.” Powder Mountain 53 Bloomberg Pursuits The rebranded Windham Mountain Club New York Gets a Mountain Club 54 Roughly 140 miles from New York City in the Catskills, Windham Mountain is used to being overlooked and ­underestimated—typically in favor of Hunter Mountain just next door, where the slopes are steeper and lined with more snowmaking cannons. But when Windham’s lift ticket prices rose to $175 a day last season, it set off loyalists, who felt protective of the mountain’s family-friendly terrain and laid-back vibe. At Windham, winding blues and greens land at a vibrant base area that’s often filled with live music. The resort’s owners at the time—the executives at Connecticut-based private equity firm North Castle Partners LLC—had tried and failed to make the mountain’s economics work a few times before, including with mountain biking and concert programming to stoke business in the summer months. When they decided to rethink food and lodging, they roped in expert reinforcements. In came Kemmons Wilson Jr., whose father founded Holiday Inn, and Sandy Beall, who started the restaurant chain Ruby Tuesday but may be best known in the hospitality world for creating one of the country’s standard-­ setting luxury resorts, Blackberry Farm in Tennessee. Instead of consulting on the deal with North Castle, Wilson and Beall bought out the majority stake. “We spent over two years talking, learning, planning and negotiating before closing the deal in April,” Beall says. He adds that they beat out “one of the large ski companies, who were only interested in leveraging Windham for winter skiing.” A year-round focus, he says, will create jobs, encourage longer stays and be lucrative for the community and local businesses. A unique aspect of Wilson and Beall’s initial $70 million capital improvement plan is culinary experiences—for which October 23, 2023 Blackberry Farm is known. This season will see a new Mediterranean ­r estaurant in the base lodge and an Italian Alps-style restaurant at midmountain. The Beall and Wilson families plan to improve lift and ­snowmaking infrastructure, expand the golf course and add pools and r­acket-sports courts. Eventually they want to build a resort and a sister property nearby in the Catskills, where many New Yorkers summer. All this was announced as part of a complete rebranding in October; the new owners changed the name of the ski area to Windham Mountain Club—a reflection of their ­membership-driven business model. A $175,000 initiation fee and annual dues of $4,500 will cover perks such as ski valets, access to ­members-only restaurants and preferential reservations for skiing and dining. (Membership won’t be tied to mountainside condo ownership, and skiing will continue to be open to the public.) “Skiing needs to be very good, with few lines and great snow,” Beall says. “But even more important is creating a wonderful experience over two or three days of skiing, including great dining and après-ski moments.” The turn to luxury will attract certain New Yorkers, who will no doubt enjoy having a Blackberry Farm-like experience in their backyard. But the announcement was not well received by Windham die-hards, many of whom thought the new owners were pricing them out. On social media, they railed against the Bealls and Wilsons for turning Windham into an exclusive resort. In a letter, Chip Seamans, the longtime president and general manager of Windham, pushed back. “The overriding goal of all upcoming improvements is to provide a phenomenal experience for guests, a great place to work for employees, and support for a thriving local economy,” he wrote. “I’ve watched changes made at the other ski areas as they were acquired,” Seamans says, referring in part to his experience managing Maine’s Sunday River amid an acquisition that left him somewhat sour. “Sometimes that’s done with great success, sometimes with much less success,” he says. “There isn’t a one-model-fits-all approach to running a ski area.” At Windham, the Bealls and Wilsons are pioneering a new model, but Seamans is confident about the next chapter. “Independent ownership gives you total flexibility,” he says. “We’re not beholden to a corporate formula, and we’ll be able to make decisions that we think are best for our guests and our community.” <BW> COURTESY WINDHAM MOUNTAIN CLUB SKI SPECIAL SKI SPECIAL Alpine Assistants The latest backcountry gear will help you stay safe off-piste By Jen Murphy A Mountain Smartwatch Designed specifically for outdoor expeditions, the Suunto Vertical is a failproof backup for your smartphone—with a compass, barometer-based altitude readings, advanced weather forecasting, storm alerts and a detailed network of offline maps to help you navigate in the absence of network coverage. Tap into it all from a 1.4-inch screen that stays powered for as long as 60 days without a charge. A titanium solar model can stay powered for a year. From $629; suunto.com A beacon, shovel and probe have long been considered the nonnegotiable trio of backcountry safety gear—things that, along with information from an avalanche education course, you should keep handy if you plan to leave the boundaries of any ski resort. Consider these following products as new ways to take your safety to the next level. COURTESY COMPANIES 55 Assisted Breathing Vest Research shows that it takes as little as 10 minutes to start running out of air when you’ve been trapped in an avalanche; after 35 minutes, a victim has only a 10% chance of survival. Enter DB’s Snow Pro Vest, the first wearable product to incorporate an innovative breathing assistance system called Safeback SBX. It looks like a normal puffer, with a thin, integrated 8-liter backpack. But pull an activation handle from its left shoulder strap, and it can release two liters of oxygen per minute into the victim’s vicinity—allowing for 90 minutes of breathing time. If the avalanche transceiver is on send mode, that extra time will drastically increase the chance of rescue. $699; us.dbjourney.com Electronic Avalanche Airbags If you get caught in a slide, avalanche airbag packs—widely considered backcountry safety essentials—can inflate to keep you afloat and more visible to rescuers. These typically require heavy canisters of pressurized gas, which are single-use and a pain to fly with, because full ones can’t be taken on a plane. New electronic bags do away with those hassles. POC’s Dimension Avalanche Backpack is TSA-approved and reusable, and it employs a supercapacitor-powered fan to fully inflate its airbag in less than four seconds. But it does weigh 7 pounds, which is more than traditional options. At just 4.3 pounds, Ortovox’s Avabag LiTRIC Zero is a lighter option if you’re ski-touring versus heli-skiing. It uses both supercapacitors and a lithium-ion battery—which means it can hold up to 60 hours of charge, inflate twice and recharge in 25 minutes. But you can’t put it in checked luggage with your other gear. $1,300; pocsports.com; $1,200; ortovox.com The Essential App When it launches on iOS in November, AspectAvy will predict the safest backcountry routes down any mountain in the lower 48 by weighing historical predictors of avalanche risk, such as snowpack stability and slope angles, against the daily forecast in your location. The app draws data from Lidar maps, which use light sensors to record everything from tree density to foot traffic and deeper-powder areas along slopes. Its creators plan to expand into other regions as Lidar technology becomes more available. After the app helps you decide which way to go, a coaching feature can monitor your route in real time. Feedback on your decisionmaking arrives at the end of the day. $50 annual subscription; aspectavy.com SKI SPECIAL Bloomberg Pursuits October 23, 2023 Down Is Up There’s a reason everyone’s high on puffers this season By Matthew Kronsberg ② ③ ① 56 1 Bankable Long removed from its origins making workwear on the edge of the French Alps, Moncler now produces puffers for people who don’t need to spend any more time out in the cold than they absolutely want to. Its men’s Saulx short down jacket is boldly monogrammed on the sleeve and made with nylon laqué that’s as shiny as a new Maserati. It comes in the inevitable black, as well as a Barbie-bright pink that’s more Malibu than Matterhorn. $1,930 2 Biodegradable Designing a winter jacket that will remain stylish and functional long term is the goal for most brands, but Italian label Herno has a more ambitious five-year plan. Its Globe line is made with Fast5 nylon, which, after being landfilled, can break down into organic matter in a half-decade, compared with 50 years for typical nylon. The diamondstitched short-sleeved cape and muff is also available in green, orange and other colors. $990 3 Technological Rest assured that whatever you’re wearing from Londonbased fashion futurists Vollebak Ltd., it will include technology that sounds straight from the mind of James Bond’s Q. The namesake item in its Aerogel puffer, for instance, is the lightest solid material ever created and an effective enough insulator that NASA uses it in spacesuits. Here, Vollebak infuses PrimaLoft insulation for more warmth without adding weight. $1,295 4 Packable Started in 1981 by a former nuclear physicist, Outdoor Research LLC takes a functionbefore-flash approach. Its men’s Coldfront down hoodie is mostly filled with responsibly sourced 700+ down. The shoulders and cuffs use a blend of down and VerticalX ECO insulation for extra warmth. Even though this wellstuffed jacket is cut spaciously, to leave room for base layers, it can fold down into a compact zippered pocket. $279 COURTESY COMPANIES ④ SKI SPECIAL Bloomberg Pursuits When an AI-generated image of Pope Francis wearing a ­full-length white puffer coat ricocheted around the internet in March, the primary reaction was to fret over how susceptible society is to photo fakery. But perhaps another lesson from the incident: The right puffer can make even the pontiff look cool. “Puffers are literally huge at the moment,” says Hannah Kane, author of The Style Thesaurus ($35, Laurence King). “They are easy to wear because they’re practical, light and warm, but they’re also very voluminous. So they are obviously a big statement.” October 23, 2023 The growth of this ever-puffing universe can be seen not only on the streets of New York, where Uniqlo’s standard coats are the keystone piece of many urbanites’ winter uniform, but also in the financial reports of brands such as Moncler SpA, whose revenue in the first half of 2023 rose 29% from the same period last year. The company just completed a significant expansion of its factory in Bacau, Romania. Moncler’s opulently styled (and priced) winter wear isn’t for everyone, but it won’t take a papal miracle to find a puffer to fit your taste, geography and lifestyle. ⑧ ⑤ ⑦ 57 ⑥ 5 Durable While trends come and go, Canada Goose continues to produce gear made to last. The new Cypress cropped puffer combines practicality with contemporary design—recessed cuffs hold in warmth, as does an interior drawstring on the highhip hem. Its responsibly sourced 750-fill power duck down is encased in a shiny, waterrepellent, wind-resistant shell available in black, silverbirch or turquoise-y boulevard blue. $895 6 Noticeable Nobis, founded by a former vice president of Canada Goose, strikes a balance between Arctic adventure ruggedness and urbane styling. Its Dyna chevron quilted puffer jacket for men is packed with enough Canadianorigin white duck down to be rated for temperatures as low as 5F. Sealed seams and windproof technical taffeta fabric help keep the cold out, while pit zipper vents prevent overheating. $895 7 Venerable It’s been more than 30 years since North Face’s Nuptse jacket made the puffer a streetwear staple. This year, Japanese designer Jun Takahashi’s Undercover label teamed up with the vaunted brand for the North Face x Undercover SouKuu Cloud Down Nuptse, available in three colorways. All sport 800-fill ProDown for the coldest conditions, as well as hiddenzipper removable sleeves when things warm up. $825 8 Sustainable The midweight, midthighlength women’s Radalie parka from Patagonia upholds the company’s reputation for functional, eco-friendly gear made in fair-trade factories. It’s available in black and four additional, muted colors, and the outer shell is composed of 100% recycled polyester taffeta treated with a PFC-free water-repellent coating. Inside is Thermogreen 100% recycled polyester insulation. $249 SKI SPECIAL Bloomberg Pursuits October 23, 2023 Bigger Is Better The major improvements you need to know about at top US ski destinations By Jen Murphy Aspen Snowmass, Colorado The upgrade: A terrain expansion called Hero’s is adding chutes, three gladed areas and four cut trails on the upper eastern aspects of the ski resort, marking Aspen Mountain’s first major update since 1985. Additional acres: 153 (+22%) The investment: $14 million Why we care: The new area faces north at a high elevation (all above 10,000 feet), so these slopes are more likely to stay blanketed in powder even in low-snow years—never mind the epic views toward Independence Pass and the Roaring Fork River. Steamboat Ski Resort, Colorado The upgrade: Mahogany Ridge and Fish Creek Canyon—two areas previously considered out of bounds—have been properly built out, including a new high-speed quad to serve some of the mountain’s most beautiful gladed slopes. Additional acres: 655 (+22%) The investment: $220 million Why we care: The expansion makes Steamboat the second-largest ski resort in the state. Its reputation as an “intermediate” mountain is also being broadened: It A trail map of the Hero’s expansion at Aspen introduced a new beginner’s area last year, and the added expert-only terrain includes challenging rock cliffs, chutes and glades. Sun Valley Resort, Idaho The upgrade: The chairlifts at this resort have needed love for years; most were built in the late 1980s and ’90s. The Warm Springs Enhancement adds modern infrastructure that will transport skiers from the base to the summit of Bald Mountain in eight minutes— making the trip 35% faster and vastly improving access to midmountain and recently expanded summit trails. Additional acres: 200+ (+21%) The investment: Undisclosed Why we care: These changes will smooth out skier circulation and make it easier to access popular parts of the mountain, such as the glades of Frenchman’s and local favorite run Picabo’s Street—named after the Olympic gold medalist who calls the resort home. Sugarloaf, Maine The upgrade: New England’s largest ski terrain enhancement since the 1970s is unfolding in Maine, where the West Mountain expansion will add a Doppelmayr high-speed quad that can transport 2,400 skiers and riders per hour from the base to the beloved ski-in, ski-out Bullwinkle’s Bistro—plus 12 new trails around the restaurant. Additional acres: 120 (+10%) The investment: $104 million Why we care: The development increases West Mountain’s total terrain to almost 300 acres and creates a pod of beginner and family-friendly trails in the area that will rival entire ski areas in its size. Keystone Ski Resort, Colorado The upgrade: In the past you had to be willing to hike or pay to take a snowcat if you wanted to reach the powder stashes in the resort’s back bowls. Now the Bergman Bowl Project provides high-speed lift access to 16 runs— mostly blue—in that coveted terrain. Additional acres: 555 (+17%) The investment: Undisclosed Why we care: With lift service to some back bowls, ski patrollers predict other hike-to areas, such as the Outback and Independence bowls, will be less frequented. And fresh powder in Bergman and Erickson will be less prone to thinning from wind with more skiers packing it down. COURTESY ASPEN SNOWMASS 58 American ski resorts reported a record 65.4 million s­ kiers and riders during the 2022-23 season, according to the National Ski Areas Association—and with that came record capital investments in excess of $810 million. This season should surpass both those highs. The good news for skiers? All that money is paying for an array of mountain enhancements that will shorten lift lines, cater to new and intermediate skiers and, yes, spread out those crowds. THE ONE Bloomberg Pursuits Après Arm Candy PROP STYLIST: CAYLAH LEAS When the skis have been racked, the snowy clothes peeled off and the boots deliriously unclenched, that’s when Part 2 of a great ski day begins. Whether you’re meandering through a resort town browsing boutiques or meeting a rowdy group for raclette, you’ll doubtlessly be lugging some cold-weather gear with you. Berluti’s new Toujours XL leather and shearling tote bag ($5,350, cross-country skis and goggles not included) will store all your sundries in effortless style while keeping your arms free in case of slips—or errant snowballs from the kids. THE COMPETITION • The silky-soft Ralph Lauren Purple Label Welington burnished calfskin tote ($2,495) has stirrupinspired hardware on a buckle that closes the top of the bag, along with a helpful shoulder strap. • Loewe’s medium puzzle fold shearling tote ($2,500) covers the brand’s instantly recognizable bag design with dark khaki green fluff. • Need something that can seriously handle the elements on the outside—and even on the inside, when you toss in your helmet and mucky ski boots? Fine. Rossignol’s unisex tote bag 30L ($80) is made of waterresistant recycled polyester, has tons of room and even includes a sleeve for your laptop. Berluti’s shearling tote is a cozy carryall for your post-slope schlepping By Chris Rovzar Photograph by Ryan Jenq October 23, 2023 THE CASE Inspired by Berluti’s leatherand-shearling Ultima boots— themselves inspired by the traditional bomber jacket—this latest handsome iteration of the Toujours tote combines textured leather with bands of patinated brown. The open top can be cinched using belts on each side, and though there are no pockets in the soft, shearling interior, a zipped pouch (also shearling) for your small valuables tethers to the exterior with a strap for easy rummaging. Unlike that of many totes, the structure is strong enough to keep the bag upright when you plop it on the floor by the hearth, and a flat leather bottom can handle some snow and grit while you put your sore feet up by the fire. $5,350 berluti.com 59 The Businessweek Show airs on Thursday evenings. Watch on Bloomberg Television and Bloomberg Originals on Bloomberg.com, YouTube and more. Taking a Risk On Risk By Max Abelson DuV ally Cha Rog ozin s ng ki BLOOMBERG 60 Once my colleagues and I began thinking about how to turn this magazine into a television show, the risk was glaring: What works well in Bloomberg Businessweek might not fly on screen for The Businessweek Show. After all, the pivots we report on in these pages don’t always go smoothly. When we sat down to film our first interviews, I discovered a more personal risk. When reporters write, we get to maintain a sense of control: To open a quote is to pass the microphone to somebody else, and to end that quote puts us back in charge. But on a talk show, guests aren’t just expected to get more airtime than the host; they’re also empowered to talk when and how they want. To nudge, disagree or interrupt looks heavy-handed, foolish or just tedious—and it risks the interview’s momentum and the audience’s goodwill. So it only made sense to interview risk-takers about their choices. Jaime Rogozinski, who created WallStreetBets on Reddit, helped change the very idea of who gets to take risk in the markets for equities and derivatives. He told me he has no regrets about all the money his community members wagered on high-risk options and stocks—“I can’t make myself responsible”—or the “tons of money” he lost himself. Eventually, after he tried to trademark the forum’s name, Reddit removed him as a moderator. He took another risk this year by suing Reddit; a judge has tossed the suit, at least for now. “I walked away,” Rogozinski told me, “with so much knowledge and understanding and hands-on experience that a textbook can never explain.” Guest Maeve DuVally, until recently a managing ­director of public relations at Goldman Sachs Group Inc., took a different kind of chance when she became one of the first prominent Wall Street figures to come out as transgender. “The kind of risk that I manage, and incidentally, everybody at Goldman Sachs is taught they have to manage, is reputational risk,” she said. One day, before a gala, she found herself running out of the office to buy makeup. It’s not that she thought it was safe; it’s just that she felt she had to. Then, later, she came out at work. Some people were warm—traders sent bouquets—but she didn’t hear from the firm’s famed mergers-and-acquisitions bankers. “I think investment bankers are very good at having really expansive relationships, kind of across a wide group of people,” she said. “But maybe some of those relationships aren’t as deep as they would appear.” In the 1990s, Sophia Chang joined the orbit of hip-hop collective Wu-Tang Clan, becoming Ol’ Dirty Bastard’s manager, a position she took without any experience as a manager. She also ran RZA’s record label without any experience of running a label. “We all live with a real fear of humiliation, embarrassment, excommunication, reprisal,” she said. “I have gotten to the point where I just don’t care. I mean, it’s so incredibly liberating not to care what other people think.” That kind of liberation can only come from taking a risk. <BW> �Abelson is the host of The Businessweek Show Bloomberg Businessweek (USPS 080 900) October 23, 2023 (ISSN 0007-7135) H Issue no. 4802 Published weekly, except one week in February, April, May, June, July, August, September, October and November by Bloomberg L.P. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y., and at additional mailing offices. Executive, Editorial, Circulation, and Advertising Offices: Bloomberg Businessweek, 731 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10022. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Bloomberg Businessweek, P.O. Box 37528, Boone, IA 50037-0528. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement Number 41989020. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to DHL Global Mail, 355 Admiral Blvd., Unit 4, Mississauga, ON L5T 2N1. Email: contactus@bloombergsupport.com. QST#1008327064. Registered for GST as Bloomberg L.P. GST #12829 9898 RT0001. Copyright 2023 Bloomberg L.P. All rights reserved. Title registered in the U.S. Patent Office. Single Copy Sales: Call 800-635-1200 or email: bwkcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Educational Permissions: Copyright Clearance Center at info@copyright.com. Printed in the U.S.A. CPPAP NUMBER 0414N68830 ◼ THE SHOW