Level 1
Texture
Certification
Schools sub headline here.
Body Copy can go here. Whatever you’d like to say.
Overview
• General information of the Skin and Hair
• Chemistry of the Hair
• Take Home and Product Guide Workbook
Skin
• Only barrier against the
environment
• Largest Organ
• Should be slightly
moist, flexible, and soft.
Skin Structure
HAIR TYPES
1. VELLUS or LANUGO HAIR
Short, fine, downy hair; commonly
found on infants: on adults, it is on
areas usually considered “hairless”,
such as the forehead, eyelids and
bald scalp, as well as nearly all other
areas of the body, except the palm of
the hand and soles of the feet
HAIR TYPES
2. TERMINAL HAIR
Long hair found on the
scalp, arms, legs and body.
Its coarser than vellus hair
and is almost always
pigmented, except gray hair.
TWO PARTS OF A HAIR STRAND
HAIR ROOT
the part of the hair located below the surface of the scalp
HAIR SHAFT
The portion of the hair located
above the skin surface
STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR ROOT
* FOLLICLE* a tube-like pocket
in the skin or scalp containing
the hair root; surrounds the
dermal papilla; located all over
the body with the exception of
the palm of the hand and the
soles of the feet
*BULB* lowest area of the hair
strand; club-like structure that
forms the lower part of the hair
root; fits over and covers the
dermal papilla
*DERMAL PAPILLA* small, cone-shaped area at the base of the
follicle; contains blood and nerve supply to provide nutrients needed
for hair growth
STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR ROOT
STRUCTURES ASSOCIATED WITH THE HAIR
FOLLICLES
*ARRECTOR PILI*
A tiny, involuntary muscle in the base of the
hair follicle: strong emotions or cold causes it
to contract making hair stand straight up,
resulting in
“goosebumps:!
*SEBACEOUS GLANDS*
Oil glands that connect to the hair follicle; they
secrete sebum, an oily substance which lubricates
the hair and skin
4-18 Layers
Hydrophilic
Outermost layer
Hair
Structure
Cuticle
Protects the cortex
No speci c size of function
Not always present
Medula
Air pockets & keratin
85% of hairs weight
Cortex
fi
Keratin & Protein
Strongest & Most Vital
GROWTH CYCLES OF HAIR
ANAGEN
the growth phase when new hair is produced. At any one time, 90% of scalp hair is in
this phase which generally lasts 3-5 years. The longer the anagen phase, the longer the
hair can grow. Average hair growth is ½ inch per month.
CATAGEN
the transitional phase;
The follicle shrinks and detaches from the
dermal papilla; the hair bulb disappears
and the shrunken root forms a rounded
club.This stage lasts from 1-2 weeks.
TELOGEN
the resting phase or final phase of the hair cycle, which lasts until the fully grown is either
shed or is pushed out during the next anagen phase. This phase lasts about 3-6 months.
GROWTH PATTERNS
* WHORL
hair that forms a circular
pattern, usually on the
crown
*HAIR STREAM
*COWLICK
a tuft of hair that
stands straight up
Hair that flows in the same direction; 2 streams
that flow in opposite directions form a natural
part
The bonds of the hair
Hydrogen Bonds:
The largest in # but the weakest bond
ff
*A ected by water and heat *
The bonds of the hair
Salt Bonds:
Moderate in amount and in strength
*Affected changes in pH*
The bonds of the hair
Disul de Bonds:
Least in # but the strongest bond
fi
*Affected by reactive chemicals*
Chemical and Physical Process
of a perm
• Breaking and shifting of the bonds
• Reduction- adding hydrogen
• Oxidation- adding oxygen
Chemical and Physical Process
of a relaxer
• Breaks the disulfide bond
• Removes sulfur atom
• Creates new lanthione bond
• Lanthionization
Activity
♦ Using OBE, go to your curly
hair doll head, have partner A
teach first time curly relaxer
application.
The pH Scale
* pH stands for Protenz Hydrogen
*
the pH scale is Logarithmic
meaning... LOL * every increase
or decrease in pH equals a tenfold
change in alkalinity or acidity
The pH Scale
* acid - hardens & closes the cuticle
* alkaline - softens & swells the cuticle
The Ph scale measures the acidity and alkalinity ranges from 0-14
Healthy hair 4.5-5.5
Neutral 7
Perms 6.5-9.5
Relaxers 11.5-14
CLIENT CONSULTATION
Guests Needs
Consultation
• Desired end result?
• Specific questions for all
Texture Service!
• Challenges / Solutions
• Budget
• Additional Services
• Recommend Take Home
• Product Guide Workbook
Activity
♦As a group come up with a list
of Consultation questions you
would ask a clinic class room
guest
Safety Precautions
Relaxers
24-48 hours no
shampooing before service
Relaxer and lightner will
melt hair
Perm
72 hours no shampooing
after service
Changing of cotton
Style and Finish
Comb on the scalp to prevent burn with hot tools
CONDITION OF THE HAIR
& HAIR & SCALP ANALYSIS
D.E.P.T.H.
Density
The number of hairs per square inch.
Blonde - 140,000
Brown - 110,000
Black - 108,000
Red - 80,000
ELASTICITY
The ability of hair to stretch and return back
to its original length without breaking.
Wet hair will stretch 50% of its length, while dry will only
stretch 20%
POROSITY
The ability of hair to absorb moisture
Low porosity
Resistant hair, more alkaline substances, doesn't take on moisture easily
Average porosity
Takes on and releases moisture easily
High porosity
Overly porous, less harsh chemicals and lower heats, hair is fragile
or damaged
Texture and Formation Chart
Pg. 163
TEXTURE
The fabric of our hair
Coarse
Medium
Fine
Hair History
Activity
♦On a classmate, by using
texture and formation chart,
determine the texture and
formation of the other student
Take Home Recommendation
Level 1
Texture
Certification
Schools sub headline here.
Body Copy can go here. Whatever you’d like to say.