Overview The term textile industry describes the industry in which the production, processing, manufacture, and distribution of fabrics occurs. Fabrics are made using raw materials that are transformed into yarns and then knit or woven together. The starting point for any textile or apparel product is the raw fiber. To go from fiber to finished garment, the process is generally as follows: 1. Fibers are most commonly transformed into yarn 2. Yarns are intertwined by either a weaving or a knitting process to form fabrics, or knit directly into garments. 3. Fabrics are cut into garment components; components are sewn into garments. 4. Garments may be embroidered, dyed, “stone washed,” or otherwise further processed. Color may be imparted to a fabric at the fiber, yarn, fabric, and / or assembled garment stage through dyeing and / or printing processes. Fibers Fibers are the raw material for any textile product. They are thin, flexible, hair – like strands of matter that range in length from a few centimeters to hundreds of meters. Short fibers (from a few to many centimeters in length) are called staple fibers. Long, continuous fibers are called filament fibers. Fibers are the smallest units from which fabrics are made, by on process or another. Some fibers are short, other is very long, some are kinky, others are straight and smooth, some are scaly and some are twisted. Varieties of Textile Fibers (according to nature of source) 1. Naturalfound in nature in fibrous form. Example: vegetable fiber, animal fiber and mineral fiber 2. Man-madetransformed by man from non-fibrous sources. Example: natural polymer and synthetic fibers 3. Manufactured – made from cellulose or protein Example: viscose rayon, acetate, olefins The difference between “manufactured” and “synthetic” fibers is that the manufactured fibers are derived from naturally-occurring cellulose or protein, while synthetic fibers are not. And manufactured fibers are unlike natural fibers because they require extensive processing (or at least more than is required by natural fibers) to become the finished product. The category of “manufactured” fibers is often called regenerated cellulose” fibers. Cellulose is a carbohydrate and the chief component in the walls of plants Major Steps in Textile Industry Singeing The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically, singeing refers to the burning-off of. Loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces, and pilling results. Singeing of fabric is done in order to achieve the following objectives. To improve pilling rating of fabric To give a uniform luster to the surface Removal of projection fiber. DESIZING The removal of sizing material is called desizing. It is done in desizng chamber. In this way the sizing material is removed. Types of Desizing Following methods are used for desizing. • Water Desizing • Acid Desizing • Enzymatic Desizing 1-Water De-Sizing It is the oldest method for desizing. For this purpose, we use hot water. If our sizing material is soluble in water then it becomes soluble in water and is removed in this way. 2-Acid Desizing For acid desizing we use very dilute HCL or H2SO4 for 4---8 hours. It is done at room temperature. 3-Enzymatic Desizing In this method certain enzymes are used for biodegradation of sizing material (starch) such as amylase (C6H10O5) n amylase n(CO2) + n(H2O) +energy Scouring The term ‘scouring’ applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, waxes, gums, soluble impurities and sold dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic and clean cloth. Objective of Scouring : Scouring removes all the waxes and makes the textile material hydrophilic or water absorbent. BLEACHING Bleaching means the removal of the all color impurities. Woven and knitwear fabric that made of wool, cotton and silk are not white. Owing to their natural color or contamination in the preceding process, for fabric that have to dyed in pure white or any color, the has to bleached. Bleaching is done by different methods such as Hydrogen peroxide(H2O2) Sodium hypochlorite (NaClO) Sodium Chlorite (NaClO2) Mercerizing The luster, Dye affinity and tensile strength of the cotton can be increased by mercerizing. This gives knitwear a smoother feel and higher dimensional stability. Mercerizing is specially applied on cotton products such as bed-linen table cloth and fabric for dresses. The material is treated with concentrated caustic soda solution .the fiber surface become smoother so that the light reflecting ability and thus gloss is increased. Dyeing Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials by immersing the in an aqueous solution of dye called dye liquor. Generally the dye liquor consists of dye, water and other such materials which increase the effect of dyeing. Heat is usually applied to the liquor. Some specific dyeing materials are mentioned for some fiber materials. Different dyeing materials are used for different fiber materials. Various dyeing materials exists, as the fiber possess different reactive groups due to their chemical structure Cellulose: • Direct Dyes • Vat Dyes • Reactive Dyes • Sulfur dyes Wool: • Acid Dyes • Chrome Developed dyes Polyester: • Disperse dyes Printing Printing is actually a type of dyeing. The main difference between printing and dyeing is that in dyeing the fabric is given one color only by dipping in the solution of dye, whereas in printing different colors are applied according to the requirement of design. 14 PRINTING MACHINE For printing usually four types of machines are used. • roller printing machine • multi roller printing machine • flat belt printing machine • rotary printing machine FINISHING DEPARTMENT In finishing department final process is done. The fabric is brought to finishing department after bleaching, dyeing or printing. Many qualities are produced in fabric during finishing. The Finishing process is divided into two major portions 1. Mechanical Finishing This is surface treatment of textile by means of special mechanical processing machine. This process is used to developed the special fabric characteristics e.g. Shearing, Gigging, Calendaring. 2. Thermal Finishing Thermal Finishing includes finishing process that requires warmth, coating of chemical finishes and drying processes are belong to this group. STANTER MACHINE It is very important machine which is used to finish and dry the fabric. Its main purposes are: Adjustment of fabric width Coating (chemical finishes) The main parts of Stanter machine are: Chemical bath Stretching frame Drying chamber Cooling chamber