Early History of Saraswati civilization of Saurashtra and Jain Tirth of
Palitana and Girnar:
By: Bipin R. Shah
Early Geography and Civilization of Saurashtra:
The present region of Saurashtra is located approximately in the middle of western side of
Indian Land mass. Up on the observation of current map of India, the Peninsula appears to be
a later stage edition to the land mass after major land mass of India was formed.
The geological studies undertaken recently for detecting the hydro carbon reserve have come
up with the similar conclusion with examination of sedimentation layers. During PreHarrapan days or even early stages of the planet, the peninsular region looked much
different. Saurashtra and Kuchha were both Islands during Harrapan age and were heavily
forested region of the Peninsula. The average rain fall was three times the current level with
two major rivers crisscrossing the entire Peninsula and two mountains, an ideal place for
ascetics to reach Nirvana or salvation.
This further explains the Large Continental theory of Gondwana and its piecemeal separation
into various continents of the current map, as the planet cooled from its early volcanic stage.
The Lions and other wild life may have gotten separated from conjoined African land mass as
a part of a broken piece as shown in one of the gradual breakup of Gondwana shown in the
map below. Saurashtra is the only place other than Africa where the lions exist and that may
not be a coincidence when looked from the above mentioned Gondwana theory of formation
of the continents.
Lions, Tigers, Wild Life similar to Africa found in Saurashtra in early ages-Gondwana-Blue-red as marked.
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The first archaeological evidence of early Indic civilization was found at Harappa and
Mohenjo-Daro, a well planned city of what is now widely known as “Harappans” Civilization
named after second metropolis nearby. Further discovery of various sites in Gujarat, Haryana,
India have reclassified them as Indus Civilization or Indus-Saraswati civilization. Similar sites
of this civilization at various phases have been found in Baluchistan, Cholishan, Rann of
Kuchha and Northern Gujarat. The discovery and excavation of such sites as Gola –Dhora,
Dholavira in Runn of Kuchha and Surkotada in Haryana, Lothal in Northern Gujarat,
Kalibangam and Nausharo in North India have convinced many scientists that drying up of
Ghaghar-Hakra river system, referred by ancient texts as saraswati did exist. The satellite
imageries have further convinced the skeptics that drying up of ancient mythical Saraswati
River had something to do with disappearance of this ancient civilization. Prior to 2500 BC, a
mighty river that originated in Himalayan Glacier descended through North Indian plains,
passing through Thar desert in Rajasthan and ending its journey through Rann of Kuchha near
the Guelph of Kutch and Indian ocean . This river system ran parallel to Indus river system
that also originating in nearby Shivalik hills of Northern Himalayan range and ultimately fed
by five rivers of Punjab. The western Part of India has Tectonic history since the early
formation of the planet and these two mighty rivers have changed the courses several times.
The sea level has also changed from time to time due to climatic or unexplained celestial
phenomenon affecting earth’s rotational axis, exposing underwater landmass connecting to
the mainland. As late as 1000 AD, the saline Rann of Kuchha was navigable and the ports like
zinzuwada and vav were maritime trade centers of Gujarat. They are now landlocked with
silts build up and desiccation of the Rann of Kuchha.
We can safely conclude that Saurashtra and Kuchha in earlier history were islands. Since the
beginning of Common Era, Saurashtra has gradually connected with the mainland while
Kuchha have alternately connected with Sindh land mass or main land mass from time to
time due to unrecorded geological events. The series of maps below will give you the
graphical representation of various phases of the changes of the western region.
When examining this hypothesis, the recent World Genome project gives a helpful hand
when documenting ancient migration into and out of India from the point of the origination
from Africa and habitation in Fertile Crescent region of the world.
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This map does not show accurate geography that may have existed at the time but illustrate the growth of
Harrapan civilization that supports the genetic Theory of “Out Of India”-or “humanity Transit “route of India
when they left Africa as shown below. Source National Geographic Society- World genome Projects
Archeological Survey of India has identified over 700 sites that bear the stamp of this ancient
civilization. Out of these sites, 35 have been excavated suggesting that this civilization
spanned the area over half a million square mile, stretching from Afghanistan, Punjab,
Baluchistan, Haryana, Gujarat, Sindh, Kutch and Rajasthan along the path of dried up river.
This makes this civilization bigger than Egyptian and Mesopotamian civilization that
flourished in Middle East. There is minimum information available on early civilization of
china.
Unknown Geological events of 2400-2200 BC
What is it so special about this period of 2400 to 1800 BC? What was taking place around the
world at that time? We do not know for sure, if the earth was impacted by a celestial event
of unknown origin that induced extreme climate change and the change in sea level. The
testimonials of such an event is planted in Egyptian antiquity where the painting and
heliography images shows the condition of extreme famine and the fertile crescent of the
world was severally impacted and civilization of summer and Indus valley disappeared and
appeared to be abandoned.
Geologists now concur with this observation that there was a mighty drought of three
centuries around the time of 2200 BC, which severely affected civilizations across India, West
Asia, and North Africa. The following is a Wikipedia extract about this event:
"A phase of intense aridity in at 4.2 ka BP (4200 years Before Present) is well recorded
across North Africa, the Middle East, the Red Sea, the Arabian peninsula, the Indian
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subcontinent, and even mid-continental North America. Glaciers throughout the mountain
ranges of western Canada advanced at about this time."
Michael Staubwasser of Hannover University and Harvey Weiss of Yale University, who made
a study of the correlation between the climatic changes and the cultural evolution of West
Asia, added to the above recording:
"...the event begins at 4200 cal yr BP (4200 years Before Present) and lasts about 300 yr. In
records from the eastern Mediterranean region and West Asia, a severe drought is
observed almost everywhere. A cultural response to the 4.2 ka climate events may also be
seen within the Harappans civilization centered on the Indus valley into the Makran (West
Pakistan) and Northwest India. A transition from an urbanized (mature or urban
Harappans) to a rural (post-urban) society is well documented beginning at approximately
3950 cal yr BP (Possehl, 1997a). At the end of the third millennium and the beginning of
the second millennium BC, the Great Bath and Granary at Mohenjo-Daro were
abandoned, settlement in Sindh, the Indus-Saraswati valley and the Balochi highlands
collapsed and shifted east to the headwaters of the Saraswati and south to the Saurashtra
Peninsula."
Anyway, many Indus-valley sites including the one in Saurashtra were abandoned as trade,
agriculture broke down and the people moved on to search for food and need for survival.
Those who were able to survive moved on to other greener posture. It appears that North
Indian cities of Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro were more affected than the region of
Saurashtra. However, the trade link breaks down with other cities and Sumeria and
affected every one and entire Indus valley civilization had to be abandoned until the 300
years of draught ended. Egyptian recorded these unclear geological and climatic events in
motif and frescoes of this historical and unprecedented draught.
Nomadic and migrant faces of Saurashtra indicating central Asian Influence
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See the charts and maps below of the spread of Indus-saraswati civilization stretching the broad area of
western India along with other civilization of fertile crescents of Nile and Euphrates rivers delta.
Spread of Harrapan Civilization-Final Phase and its contemporary civilizations of the world
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Current satellite map showing dried up river bed and reconstruct of what it would look like during Mythical
Saraswati -Sindhu River during Harrapan Period
Professor Kenoyer in his ground breaking work at Baluchistan have revealed additional
details on this “pre-Aryan” Indus civilization that were not evident during early Harrapan
discovery to colonial historians. This new findings has moved the dating further to 6500-7000
BC as very early phase of human urban settlement of Indus valley that parallel to Nile and
Euphrates valleys.
Some early clues of early form of Religion:
Some of the iconography that was discovered at these Harrapan sites can be interpreted by
some experts as early form of “Jainism” otherwise commonly labeled as “Shramanic
Tradition”. This also can be interpreted as early form of Shaivism that was incorporated into
Vedic corpus as Shramanic tradition. There is no question that these ancient traditions have
pre-Vedic root. They are now incorporated in to various faiths of modern India. The various
forms of non-Vedic Shramanic traditions found in 5th century BC such as Jainism, Buddhism
and Ajivikas traditions shared also pre-Vedic roots and underlines spiritual developments of
ancient world. Similar evidence is found in Sumerian civilization and some of the gods and
goddesses are quite comparable to each other.
We would not for sure how old was the religion of those ancient people but there are
megalith and cave paintings and oldest archeological evidences are uncovered in South India.
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Dried Up Saraswati River bed:
There have been various studies made to investigate mythical saraswati as described in Epic
literature using data from the satellite imagery. There is no question that along the path of
the Ghaghar-Hakra, Saraswati and Indus Rivers most of the Harrapan settlements sites are
found. Indus and Saraswati were mighty rivers like rivers of Mesopotamia that irrigated the
western plain and valley of western India all the way up to Thar Desert of Rajasthan and Runn
of Kuchha. All the fertile crescent civilization were river based that allowed humans to grow
foods ,build housing and have urban life in bronze era setting.
The satellite imagery shows the Paleolithic tracts in Northern India of this mighty dried up,
mythical Saraswati River and then disappearing in desert sands of Rajasthan, the expert can
easily hypothesized the north to south flow. The experts can still disagree on the angle and
trajectory but the direction is very clear from satellite images that confirms the flow north to
south as depicted in various raw and reconstructed maps by the author. The rivers finally
meet the Arabian ocean near western peninsular section of India. Over the years, due to high
alluvium sediments, flooding and tectonic shifts the flows of the Indus have changed and
stream of saraswati flows underneath the sand of Thar Desert. However, during Harrapan
and Mahabharata epic age, the geography looked much more different than what it is today.
Satellite Image comparison- A raw map shows the traces of ancient land mass, white area (salty mass) once
filled with navigable water and relative position of Harrapan sites. The map on the left is reconstructed based on
available data to illustrate the point.
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It is a well known facts today that the area where peninsula is jointed with mainland where
the cities like Viramgam, Vadhwan and Surendra Nagar are located, we find more brackish
and salty water brought up through underground wells. This is entirely due to concentration
of salt present underground due to presence of the ancient sea.
Harrapan Period
Recreation created by Author from various data and information-early BC time period.
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Map of Harrapan World with Runn of Kuchha filled with water-Ghaghar-Hakra-extended as “Recovered
Saraswati River of Epic Age-Version One.
Krishna’s- Dwarka
“Saurashtene”, to Greek and Romans, “Saura Rastra” during Maitraka period or “Su Rastra”
in Sanskrit can mean different things. “Saura Rastra” meant the land of sun worshipper. That
indeed is a true statement as Maitraka and Western Satrap were all sun-worshippers. The
early settlement of Kamboja and Asva-saka (Asioi of Greek) is the reason why the horses of
Saurashtra were famous. Pliny mentions Aseni and Asoi clans south of the Hindukush.
Bucephala where Alexander’s horse died was the capital of the Aseni which stood on the
Jhelum River. (Serai Alamgir in Pakistan). The Sarauceans and Aseni are the Sacarauls
and Asioi of Strabo, the Greek. Asio, Asi/Asii, Asva/Aswa, Ari-aspi, Aspasia, Aspasii (or
Hippasii) are possibly variant names the classical writers have given to the horse-clans of
the Kambojas. The Old-Sanskrit-Persian words for horse, "asa" and "aspa”, have most
likely been derived from this world and they also settled in Kuchha and Saurashtra as
“Sarauceans” and thus the peninsula acquired the name after the end of Mahabharata
war. We do not know exactly when they migrated to Saurashtra but Alexander fought with
one of their tribes near Jhelum where Trunk road passes through. We should also note that
Yadavas Mathura region and language also was labeled “Soursena” and “Shourseni”
respectively.
However, the location and the existence of Dwarka-Kushathali remains murky and an
unresolved puzzle of the history for marine archeologists like another historical hangover
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of “Lost Atlantis”. Earlier announcement of discovery of underwater structure near
Saurashtra turned out be dated to Midvale age thus nullifying Dwarka discovery. Yet,
another discovery near Bharoach in Guelph of Khambatt dated back to pre-Harrapan age.
So, it cannot correlate to known chronology of Krishna existence of Iron Age. There are
some clues given in ancient texts and folklore that makes certain area for archeological
exploration but there is a strong possibility that just like Atlantis, the story of Dwarka is
lost forever to the history.
Textual References;
There are no clear geographical references of places and settlements in Rig-Veda. The
Puranas and other Epic texts describe the legends of Krishna’s Dwarka. One of the more
reliable historical sources written around 1000 AD by Kalhana of Kashmir cites the
reference of Krishna and Balrama, in a narrative that explains how the first king of
Kashmir, Gonanda was killed by Balrama, Krishna’s brother. However, his source comes
from extinct Nilmata source of Jon raja. As per Rajataragini of Kalhana:
“Krishna along with his brother Balrama was invited to Gandhara (Kabul) to attend
“Sayamvara” of Gandhara kings’ daughter. Customary to tradition, Jarasangh, nemesis
of Yadavas was also invited. Jarasangh was the father-in-law of Kansa who Krishna had
slayed earlier. Jarasangh decided to settle the score with Yadav brothers at this event. He
gathered his forces and asked his ally, the king of Kashmir Gonanda to join in this military
campaign. In this skirmish, Balrama killed Gonanda and Jarasangh was forced to
withdraw. ”
If we were to take this detail account with some degree of reliability, then this places
Rajgriha of Jarasangh, the capital of Magadha closer to swat valley nearly north of
Kashmir and closer of Afghanistan. Krishna and Balrama had to come by western side of
Sindhu River to go directly to ancient Gandhara from Mathura. This can also imply that
present rive Yamuna once flowed North-West than North-East and connected via a
tributary to Sindhu river or died up Saraswati -Ghaghar-Hakra system. It can be also
inferred that Present location of Mathura may be a replica of Ancient Mathura that was
more located west near Ghaghar-Hakra bed (ancient Saraswati). This of course a logical
stipulation without any proof but a portion of Saraswati may have been called Yamuna
during epic age. The names given in ancient texts have changed or do not correlate with
present geography and that remains a challenge for historians.
The other textual references that are found in Indian text and tradition describe the new
place where Yadav clans moved as “Kushathali”, “Dwarvati” or “Dwarka” for short. As
described above, we noted that there was a full flow of saraswati that flowed through
Kuchha and Saurashtra when they were the islands. Both of these islands may look like as
“Thali” (Dish shape). “Kusha” means that they were surrounded by volcanic rocks that
would explain the large Shiva Linga buried in Ocean where original Somnath Temple was
built. The topography that existed in Epic age make Dwarka a formidable and defendable
city fortress for enemy to conquer but still gave an easy access to North India via navigable
ancient saraswati or Indus system. Krishna can therefore make a quick dash to Hastinapur
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and Mathura when needed. The rocky shore line will not be safe for enemy to land an army
such as Jarasangh either due to stormy sea or the presence of wild beast and Lions in the
surrounding forest. The marching across the land with elephant was a formidable task.
The Krishna legend also asserts that Balrama married Revati, the daughter of King
Revtaka, the lord of Anarat and Kushathali. Revtaka was the native king of non-Aryan
origin. This way Yadav established the relationship and military alliance. So, Yadavas had
constructed a grand defensive strategy against Jarasangh.
It is believed that saraswati still flowed during Mahabharata age probably at some points
the flow was interrupted in Rajasthan but the overall flow was reduced and the land bridge
had to be used to make the connection. Bhim, Pandava brother claimed to have visited
Narayan sarovar or sweet water lake near Dholavira-Kuchha. So, the topography as
described fits the various maps shown here. The question is where was Krishna’s Dwarka?
There are numerous possibilities based on various accounts. After Krishna’s death, the
Dwarka was destroyed either by earthquake driven flooding or Tsunami. There is some
contradiction here based on Arjuna’s account in Mahabharata. Arjun came to save
survived Yadavas clans after Tsunami to take them to safety in Hastinapur. On his return,
he was attacked by Abhiras and other tribal via land route. That suggests that Krishna
probably used the river route that was available to avoid the treacherous tribal.
The present search near “Mul Dwarka” near Porbunder did not bring the required date
verifiable results. There are other possibilities that exist near the historic islands that may
have existed near Dholavira and Nagar-parker where now Rann of Kuchha exists. During
Krishna’s period, Kuchha or Saurashtra themselves could be called “Kushathali’ and
ancient Dwarka can be any coastal town existing or buried under the sand or under the
water.
The ancient name of mountain Girnar was Revtaka named after the ruler. This is where
Neminath, 22nd Tirthankara of Jaina attained Nirvana. Since Neminath was the cousin of
Lord Krishna, the whereabouts of Dwarka can be placed somewhere in the vicinity.
One Jaina historical source, describes the location of Dwarka near “Sinh Giri”. This can
mean either mountain Girnar or Mountain Palitana. The mountain Palitana was also
called “Sinh Giri” during Mauryan era. The presence of lions (Sinh) that travelled across
the entire peninsula makes either of them as good candidates. However a location near
Mount Girnar can make a strong case because that is where Neminath attained Nirvana.
The present location of Junagadh, Prabhas and western coastal towns of Peninsula goes far
back in history based on archeological evidence.
The saka-satrap and Indo-Greeks settled on western side. Chudasama branch of Rajput
who has claimed the decent from Krishna still resides in that part of Peninsula. Jethwas are
believed to be of Saka origin. They settled near Porbunder, Okha Mandal and Barda hill in
early history. The western satraps settled near Girnar and nearby Vanthali. The Maitrakas
on the other hand established the Vallabhi that was called formerly called Gajni named
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after a tribe or a king on western coast of Saurashtra across the port of Bhriggu-kachha
(Bharoach).
Other possibility lies somewhere along the shore line of Indus River where ancient Samoi
tribe once resided. They claimed themselves as descendant of Krishna’s grandson “samba”
and later emerged as Samma-Jadeja ruler clan of Kuchha and Saurashtra from Lower
sindh. Since 20.0% of Indian population claims their lineage to Krishna’s Yadav clan, we
know that Yadav clans survived in India. As the map below indicates that various branches
of Yadav dispersed throughout India. See the following WIKI on Yadavas:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yadava
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yadav
Not to scale-Yadavas migration within India as “Chedi”, “Vidarbha”, “Satvahana” Samma” and Haihaya
Harold Wilberforce, the first political agent of Kathiawar (Saurashtra) recorded his
observation during 18th century AD as follows:
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“Saurashtra has been the land to which all good Hindus who could take advantage of the
blessings of pilgrimage to the holy Somnath and all good Jainas who can take advantage of
holy pilgrimage of Girnar and Palitana.”
These pilgrims have been a source of very material wealth to the peninsula. The Hindu and
Jaina temples still dot the landscape of Saurashtra. The holy Somnath, the first Jyotirlinga of
India commanded the visit of all Hindu kings and was one of the richest temples of the world.
The accumulated wealth attracted pirates and invaders for plunder. It became a necessity to
transfer the treasure to an offshore island with 24 hours guarded protection.
“Tulsi shyam” located on Northwest end of peninsula is a hot spring known to cure all
sickness but represented true volcanic characteristics of an ancient island. At Madhvapur, a
coastal town between Porbunder (Sudamapuri) and Veraval, the tradition records the
marriage between Krishna and Rukmani not without the conflict with her brother.
Krishna receives proposal of marriage from Rukmani, Rukmani’s brother objected resulting in a battle with Krishna
Tulsi Shyam is also the source of the largest river of Saurashtra called Bhadar derived from
Bhadrabhaga. It was a life line for saurashtra’s agriculture and it still remains so along with
Satrunjaya River. This river connected the ocean-Guelph of Kuchha to the interior and
facilitated various invasions, trades and settlement across the peninsula. Satrunjaya did the
same thing for western coast part of peninsula.
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Depiction of Dwarka painting –left 18 century and right 15 century AD
Recasted-Panwar Map- Indicating most probable location of Dwarka in Guelph of Kuchha-close to sweet water
lake where Pandava stayed during exile assumed to be closer to Dwarka.
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Historical Travel routes from Dwarvati to Hastinapur as mentioned
in ancient text:
The Kamboja–Dvaravati trade route began at the seaport of Krishna’s Dwarka( exact
location is unknown) It passed through the Anarat region (North Gujarat) to ancient
Madhyamika, a city near present Chittore, South of Mt. Abu, the road reached the Indus
River via a tributary river Luni, where it turned north. At Roruka (modern Rodi), the
route split in two: one road turned east and followed the river Saraswati to Hastinapur and
Indraprasatha, capitals of Pandava & Kauravas, where Krishna made frequent visits,
while the second branch continued north to join the main east-west road called
Uttarapatha route that connected Patliputra to Pushkalavati and to Gandhara in the
northern India. Further to the north, the route continued through Bahlika, Kapisa and
Bamiyan. At Bahlika, the road turned east through Pamir Mountain and Badakashan and
finally connecting to Silk Road and Khorasan. The Silk Road connected west to Turkey
and east to china.
Maurya, Western Satraps, Indo-Greek and Maitraka’s period
There is no well recorded history of Saurashtra after Mahabharata’s reference of Krishna
and his Yadav clan’s migration from Mathura to Saurashtra. Harold Wilberforce rightly
concludes that Saurashtra was known to outside world from Harrapan period with the
presence of thriving sea ports of Lothal, Dholavira and others. The wealth to be acquired
by possession of the prosperous sea ports cannot be easily ignored.
The Yadav clans were dispersed throughout India and Asia after the death of Krishna due
to internal struggle among his descendants and the natural calamity of tsunami that befell
to the coastal areas of Surashtra. The human habitation must have continued as the people
returned from other parts of India. There were villages of native tribes of Bhils, Khavas
(fisherman), Koli, and vagher who were nomadic tribes and lived on west coast and
Northern coast of Peninsula. Sometime, they found the piracy as a way of making a living.
Mangalore, known to Greek writers as “Man-Glor” was once founded by the branch of
Kamboj tribe after their struggle with Alexander in Punjab. During or after Mauryan
period they may have migrated to Mangalore of Saurashtra and finally Konkan and
established Kadamba dynasty. After Mauryan period, the active period of settlements and
maritime trades of Saurashtra began with influx of various central Asian tribes. No exact
dates are recorded but inferences can be drawn.
The Saurashtra had been called with various names in the history. Moguls mispronounced
it and called it “Sorath”, since Maratha had a devilish time asserting itself on Saurashtra
as the Kathi tribe refused to submit and pay taxes. The Kathi considered the Hindu
Maratha the “fake liberator” as they wanted to pillage and loot. The Maratha named the
province as “Kathiawar”. Maratha’s intention was to refer it to the central provinces of
Peninsula that were occupied by Kathi tribe. The British got confused and named western
provinces as “Sorath” while naming the entire peninsula as Kathiawar until Independent
India restored the correct historical designation of Saurashtra. The Saurashtra had a little
easier time under Moguls than Muslim sultan of Ahmadabad and Maratha.
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The presence of Buddhist caves, Asoka’s Girnar edicts and the Sudarshan lake proves that
Saurashtra remain active member of India’s past history. Chandra Gupta named Sena
Pushyagupta as a governor of Saurashtra and Western Satrap ruler Rudrasimha added his
own inscription next to Asoka. Rudrasimha also repaired Sudarshan Lake that was
damage due to heavy flood and rain.
The Gir Jungle stretched from Junagadh to Palitana in ancient times and there should be
no surprise that both mountains at one time may have been called “Sinh Giri” as the entire
corridor connecting the two mountains was heavily forested with wild life and served as a
perfect place for Jaina, Hindu and Buddhists ascetics for meditation. The lions, tigers
travel freely on the corridor. Trapped between two rivers Bhadar and satrunjaya, the
valley received enough water. This was the green patch of Saurashtra rich in its forest
products and still continue to remain that way of course not at the level as it used to be.
Asoka’s Rock edict at Girnar writing
Asoka’s stone edict at Girnar-Junagadh
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Damodar kund (18 cent) AD-Hindu religious Site Sudarshan Lake-Mauryan Period next to Mt. Girnar
(Sinhgiri)
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Buddhist cave at Junagadh with “Vulture Bird marking”-see my paper on Ancient sky Burial Tradition
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Buddhist Vihara- cave, Mauryan-Maitraka periods near Junagadh-Saurashtra
Ancient Saurashtra from the time of Mauryan-Western Satrap and Maitraka’s Period
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1st century CE Periplus of the Erythraean Sea records of the Peninsula of
Saurashtra
"Beyond the Gulf Of Baraca (Cambay) is that of Barygaza (Bharoach) and the coast of the country
of Ariaca, which is the beginning of the Kingdom of Nambanus (Nahapana?) And of all India. That
part of it lying inland and adjoining Scythia is called Abiria (Abhiras), but the coast is called
Syrastrene (Saurashtra). It is a fertile country, yielding wheat and rice and sesame oil and clarified
butter, cotton and the Indian cloths made therefrom, of the coarser sorts. Very many cattle are
pastured there, and the men are of great stature and dark in color. The metropolis of this country
is Minnagara (Minagora, PAK), from which much cotton cloth is brought down to Barygaza
(Bharoach-Khambatt).
It appears that during early 1st century, Saurashtra had presence of Abhiras and north of
that were Saka as recorded per Periplus of the Erythraean Sea of Greek account. However,
the Greeks were confused as to their reference of where cotton was growing. The first
saka satrap may be Nahapana under Magus who was most likely Indo-Greek and was
repulsed by Vikramaditya of Ujjain. Vikramaditya may have ruled Bharoach and North
India as Nahapana was sent as far away as Gandhara. After Vikramditya’s death,
Chasthana who followed were Indo-Parthian- saka and he recaptured Saurashtra and
Malwa back from successors of Vikram Ditya. The export product listed from Saurashtra
and Kuchha region were Cotton, sesame oil, rice, wheat and Ghee (clarified Butter) as is
the case now.
Palitana –Girnar Jain Tirths
The oldest shrine of Hindu is Somnath. Soma means moon and Nath means lord. Somnath
was dedicated to Shiva as the lord of the moon. As discussed in my previous article-“Somnath
story”, the entire history of Somnath is given there so it will not be repeated here. It is worth
mentioning that it was the first “Jyotirlinga” of India and was used as megalith lingam type
stone for worship since the days of Harrapans. Many experts are convinced that Jaina’s first
Tirthankara Rishabhdeva also known as “Adinath” the “first lord’ is the one and the same as
“Shiva”. It appears from the legends that Shankar or Shiva had two sides. The one side being
the side of ascetics who is deep meditation just like Tirthankara who should not be disturbed
and Hindu deity of Shiva who commands all the forces of nature like river Ganges that
provides the fertility to the plain and agriculture and also destructive forces of fire and storms
that can create death and famine. Shaivism has most likely roots in pre-Vedic religion of
India is very popular across all of India. South Indian Tamils (Dravids) shows closer affinity
than many north Indians and lead us to the conclusion that Shiva can be pre-Vedic and
Dravidian import to India before Vedic people arrived. Vedic religion under its big tent over
centuries incorporated all of the existing pre-Vedic religions into Hindu compendium of
today.
After Asoka’s death in 231-232 BC, his empire was divided between Grandson Samparati
(Dashratha) and his other son Jaluka (Brihadratha). Samparati presided over western empire
that included entire western half of India ruling with his capital at Ujjiyani while other son
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ruled from Patliputra. King Samparati was a teen ager when he took over the western
empire. He probably was guided by his Jaina father Kunala and Jaina Grand Mother, Queen
Padmavati. The history of Samparati succession is not very clear, if he jointly ruled with his
blind father or took over from him after his death. Due to court intrigues, Asoka had blinded
his heir apparent son Kunala, Samprati’s father. Asoka realized his mistake and punished
those who were guilty but the damage was done. King Samparati became Jaina emperor as
was Asoka was to Buddhism. He contributed to building of Jaina temples and freely
distributed Jaina idols under guidance from his religious mentor Acharya Suhastin.
Although it is not absolutely proven, but some scholars suspect that all Asoka’s edicts were
not fully completed by Asoka’s death and certain edicts like Girnar edict that fell in to
Samprati’s domain shows his Jaina influence as it forbids the killing of animals. Buddhism
never forbids eating of meats. Buddha himself ate pork curry prior to his death. Asoka ate
deer and peacock meat regularly so some expert believed that it is possible that Samprati
may have inserted some wordings under the influence of Jaina Acharya Suhastin who was the
head of Jaina church at Ujjiyani. It is clear that Jaina was the dominant religion of kalinga,
Andhra and Malabar-Konkan region of India. The edicts installed on those areas reflect those
types of thinking and references.
Hemachandra (10th century AD), a Jaina scholar in his book-the lives of Jaina elders, canto 11,
and sloka 65-83-84) describe Samprati’s following of Jainism:
“Abounding in splendors, unwavering in his faith, he (Emperor Samprati) adorned the three
parts of Bharata as far as Mount Vaidhya with Jaina Temples. Then the king summoned all his
vassals and caused them to accept the truth about religions, ordering them. If you vassals
respect me as your rightful overlord, then you will richly provide for Jaina lay people and
Jaina monks. I have no use for the wealth you give me, so if you do this as my vassal, I shall be
very pleased. Thus commanded vassals returned to their own countries and through affection
for their masters respectfully served the Jaina monks. In their countries they held carriage
procession in initiation of festival that was held in Avanti (Ujjiyani). Before the carriage, they
rained flowers and worshipped the Jaina image of Tirthankara. Since all the Vassals were now
living the lives of Jaina laymen, (Shravak), the bordering kingdoms became worthy of being
inhabited by Jaina monks. One night, Samprati thought that he will arrange for Jaina monks
to travel to barbarian countries. So, he said to the barbarians, wherever you see my servants
traveling, pay my taxes to them. Then he sent messengers dressed as Jaina monks to the
Barbarians (Mlechha) for test. Following Samprati’s order, Jaina monks dressed as
messengers instructed Barbarians. Barbarians followed the instruction of Samprati through
his messengers. King Samprati informed the Jaina Acharya Suhastin that four Barbarian
countries (Anarya-Mlechha) have been made fit for Jaina monks to inhabit. Acharya Suhastin
expressed his reservation by stating that Vassal Barbarian countries never promote the
correct knowledge, Jaina teachings and correct behavior. King responded by saying that
messengers sent in as Jaina monks have received warm welcome and good conduct of the
people was evident. So, at king’s insistence, Acharya Suhastin sent some monks to live in
Andhra, Dramila and other Barbarian countries.”
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From Purana, we learned that Samparati came to the throne in 231 BC and ruled for eight
years and he was succeeded by five other Mauryan kings of obscure names. The Mauryan
dynasty of Magadha was finally usurped by his commander-in-chief Pushyamitra Sunga in 184
BC. Satvahana declared its independence and took over the western part of Mauryan empire
that included Saurashtra. Saurashtra remained peaceful until the year 155 BC when indoGreek king of Bactria Menander (Milinda of Buddhist) invaded western part of India. Strabo
referred Saurashtra as “Saraostos”. Ultimately, Sunga repulsed the Greek from north.
However, they may have retained western part little longer until king Mogus may have sent
Nahapana, a man of Indo-Greek origin to accompany Kalkacharya (see my article on
Vikramaditya and Kalkacharya) that took over Saurashtra and Malwa. Gardbhilla chief had
driven out Sunga and Nahapana may have driven out Gardbhilla. Vikramaditya followed him
by driving Nahapana group out. After close to sixty years of lapse and Vikram’s death another
group of saka straps reentered and reoccupied western India. (See my article on Vikramaditya
and Kalkacharya). The Satvahana rulers had several skirmished with this group on and off.
After some initial victory by Satvahana who started saka era (76 AD), Rudrasimha, chastana’s
grandson defeated Satvahana. Since Satvahana ruler was his son-in-law due to earlier forced
peace alliance, he spared him and the peace prevailed. Rudrasimha was a Sanskrit scholar
and follower of Buddhism and his record of governance were praiseworthy. This group of
saka satrap probably of kamboj origin became thoroughly indianized and ruled over 300 years
until repulsed and thrown out by Chandra Gupta II. After the fall of Gupta Empire, the Gupta
governor Vijaysena declared independence and established Maitraka’s dynasty. This was
considered the Golden period of Saurashtra. After the fall of Vallabhi, the center of Gravity
shifted to Vadhwan and Panch Mahal district where Chavda clan of Saurashtra (“chaura” or
Saura” tribes of Saurashtra) established a kingdom at Annilwara Patan in northern Gujarat.
This ultimately exercised the control all over Peninsula and Gujarat as Solanki and Vaghela
clans until usurped by Delhi sultanate in 13th century AD. Gujarat sultanate and Moguls
followed but exercised minimum control of tribute collection with full autonomy. Saurashtra
witnessed much migration from North due to Muslim conquest as well as Samma Rajputs
ambition to expand their rule in Saurashtra. They gave enough incentives like free land
distribution, fair justice and laws, freedom of choice of their religion and protection. This
allowed Saurashtra to prosper and grow. Akbar, Jehangir and Shajahan tried to consolidate
their empires by inducting Indian cultures and intermarrying Hindu and controlling Ulemma’s
influence. Aurangzeb undid all of them by treachery, murder of his own family and treating
their allies Rathod kings of Jodhpur in very unfriendly ways. That ultimately gave rise to
Maratha and weakening of Mogul powers. Maratha conquered Gujarat and burned Surat
three times. The rampage and looting followed. Saurashtra received some rough treatment
from Maratha until British took over.
Palitana Tirth:
Palitana Tirth was established by Jain Acharya Padlipta Suri. He migrated from Ayodhya
during beginning of 2nd century BC from Ayodhya. He belongs to “Vidyadhar Gachha” and was
22
well versed in Jaina canonical texts and Agam literature. His tutor was Acharya Naghasti and
he was initiated into monastic order at the age of eight. He was educated and trained by
sangamsinh suri. After completing his training, he went to Mathura. He travelled extensively
and possessed the knowledge of Ayurvedic medicine, he became very popular. Simuka
Satvahana king’s son Krishna became his follower and he spent considerable amount of time
in Manyakheta in Konkan. Sunga dynasty after the death of Asoka had began a purge of
Buddhist and Jaina monks and Jaina church moved from Patliputra to Mathura and Ujjiyani
and many monks also migrated to south India along the Malabar coast. Acharya Padlipta with
the help of fiduciary of Satvahana king who ruled Bhriggu-kachha settled across in the Guelph
of Khambatt in Palitana region where mount satrunjaya is located and was considered as an
abode of Rishabha, the first Tirthankara of Jaina. This tradition further reinforces the belief or
theory that there was a strong political, cultural, trade and religious connection between
summer and Harrapan civilization that enjoyed simultaneous growth and sudden demise.
From Bhriggu-kachha to Palitana by Padlipta Suri around 180-200 BC
Satvahana control of Saurashtra during Padlapta suri
Steps for climbing Jain Tirth in Palitana
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At the peak of Mount Satrunjaya (Sinh Giri) contains hundreds of Palitana temples. The
traditional have us believed that this is where first Tirthankara Rishabha gave his first
sermons to citizens of Harrapan culture. There is also a shrine of Padlipta suri often called in
Aprabhasa “Pundrika swami”. The Gulf of Khambhat is to the south of the Satrunjaya Hills
and once it was at navigable distance when Saurashtra was an island. The current Palitana
town is at the base of the foothills. The valley around the hill and river was called “Adipur
valley” named after Rishabha-Adinath. The hills and valley were infested with wild life and
natural resources and plants of medicinal values. Over the centuries, number of temples
and shrines of Tirthankara wee added and now it has become a major pilgrimage site for
Jaina pilgrims. There are approximately 3750 stone shapes that are carved into mountain
to climb 2.2 miles to the peak where all shrine temples and idols are located. During the
monsoon season the hills remains closed due to danger of mudslides and slippage. Jains
consider this yatra (pilgrimage) as a lifelong ambition while offering prayers.
Renovation of Rishabhdeva Temple 2005- during Author’s Travel
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Completed Section of Rishabhdeva Temple complex
Inner complex of various Tirthankaras’s shrine at the peak of mountain
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Palitana Inner Temple Complex
During early history, the temples were small and contain generally an idol of Tirthankara.
Now over 1000 years, the temple complex has witnessed number of additional temples with
ornate marble construction. In spite of repeated destruction by Turkish Muslims invaders
of New Delhi and Ahmadabad, the temples were rebuilt brick by brick by sheer
determination of Jaina community and philanthropists. Most notable was Samara Shah of
Ahmadabad who convinced the Muslim sultan to allow him to rebuild. Jinaprabhasuri
succeeded in convincing Akbar to give him the authority to manage the temples. Two years
later, the rebuilding began and reconstruction began for restoration. Some temple building
activity took place also under Samara Shah, merchant from Ahmadabad. Hiravijayasuri
(Tapa Gachha) organized a major pilgrimage to this location to attend the consecration
ceremony of the temple built for Rishabha by Vastu Pal and Tej Pal, Jaina minister of
Vaghela kings. Following this, there was proliferation of temples here under management
of Kalyanji Anandji.
The most important temples are those of Rishabhdeva and other Tirthankaras built by
emperor Samparati Maurya and Kumarpala Solanki, Vimal Shah who saved Somnath
treasure from Ghazni( see my Somnath story), other notables were Sahasrakuta,
Ashtapada and Chaumukh named after donor philanthropists. In 1656, Shah Jahan's son
(builder of Taj Mahal) Murad Baksh (He was half Hindu and half Muslim, assassinated by
his butcher brother Aurangzeb, the terrible). Murad was appointed as a Governor of
Gujarat granted Palitana villages to the prominent Jain merchant Shantidas Zaveri of
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Swetambra sect (Ahmadabad) in 1656 AD, and subsequently when all taxes were also
exempted that the temple town further prospered. It was brought under the control of the
Anandji Kalyanji Charitable Trust in 1730 AD to manage all of the major Jain shrines
including Palitana and it remains The sculptors' skills and capacity to carve the intricate
designs was paid on the basis of the marble dust that they had collected. Kumarpala
Solanki, a great Jain Solanki King was responsible for earlier construction dated to 12th
century AD.
The oldest available object on the hill is an idol of Padlipta suri (he was not a Tirthankara, but
the founder of Palitana city shrine and he died worshipping Rishabha. Since it is mentioned in
the Swetambra canonical texts written in 5th century AD, it was already a famous shrine
during Vallabhi period. When counted Palitana has over 950 temples and this is why it is
considered as most sacred place of worship by Jaina community.
The temples are exquisitely carved in marble, veritable prayers in stone. To an observer,
these appear to be ivory miniatures when seen from a distance. Created by master
craftsmen, the most important temple is that of the first Tirthankara Rishabhdeva.
Renovation/
Rebuilt
Philanthropist
Times
1
Javed Shah
51 A D
2
Bahud Shah
1156 AD
3
Samara Shah
1314 AD
4
Karama Shah of
Chittore
1530 AD
Notes
He spent a million gold coins.
Kumar pal Solanki Gujarat King
Spent over 3,000,000–Gujarat
Sultan
Rana Kumbha’s time, built Kirti
Stambha also
The larger temples have considerable marble halls with columns and towers, and plenty of
openings, unlike Hindu temples. They are situated in separate enclosures, surrounded by
high fortified walls. Many of the temples are very small buildings only about 3 square feet
(0.28 m2), with Jain emblems. The interiors are intricately carved, with carved ceilings with
geometrical lace designs, clustered together to form a canopy.
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The main shrine of Rishabhdeva (Adinath)
The Adinath temple, which venerates Rishabha, is the main temple (in the apex of the
northern ridge of the complex and is the grandest of all. The Jewel collection of this temple is
large, which can be seen with special permission from the Anandji Kalyanji Trust. The prayer
halls of this temple (renovated in 1157 AD by Vaghabhat, is decorated with ornamental
friezes of dragons. There are stairs from the quadrangle surrounding the temple which lead to
a balcony from where one gets a scenic view of the temple complex. There are a series of
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domes with high spires, 1245 pitchers, 21 images of brightly colored lions, four Yakshini, ten
Yaksha (guards), and 72 Devas.
Adinath-Rishabhdeva main shrine- close up view
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Palitana-nuns carrying their belonging
Climb by yourself or with help
Inner Marble pillars intricate carving and design
30
Outside structure and stone carving of temple complex
View of Temple complex-Palitana
31
Ram Pole door Entrance of the temple complex
Tirthankara Complex of Temples
32
Outside Red stone carving of the wall
Climbing the final steps took over an hour
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Looking down from the top of the hill
Devi temple at the lower level- splendid example of intricate carving
34
Devi Temple court Yard
Nearby New Temple of Hastagiri that was being built on nearby mountain-Ranakpur Temple style (2005)
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Inside Temple Court Yard-Hastigiri
Hastigiri Tirthankara complex inside view
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The Legend of Augarshah Pir of Palitana and Allauddin Khillji
Allauddin Khillji of slave dynasty attacked Gujarat with the connivance of Brahmin minister of
Vaghela king who felt King had treated him unjustly. The slave dynasty was named after
Ghuri’s invasion when his army consisted of captured eunuchs and slaves of Turkish variety.
Due to sexual abuse common in Turkish army of middle ages, they themselves turned to
homosexuality and child abuse. Mallick Kafur (Hazar Dinari) who he captured during the raid
on Stambha (Bharoach) and bought for 1000 gold coins becomes his partner and rises to the
level of his commander in chief. He also learned from him the art of treachery and cruelty.
Khillji attacked Gujarat in 1299 AD and last Hindu king of Gujarat fell after successful repels of
Ghori armies.
Obviously, the Muslim invader knew that the Hindu kept their jewels and gold at their temple
of faith. The plunder and destruction of temple of worship became the trade of Muslim
invaders. Being the house of worship, the temples were not defended by local soldiers unless
the attack is
Well known in advance. No one anticipated that steep climb of the hill by the army to
destroy, ransack and loot. The Medieval Islamic army is famous for their destruction of other
people’s culture. Allauddin Khillji was no exception to this rule so he decided to plunder the
Palitana temple for loot with all the famed jewels and destroy the holy idols. Although, the
faith of Islam forbids them for such acts, he attacked the temples. A Sufi Pir Angaarsha
resided there and he requested Allauddin to turn back and not destroy such a pious place.
Khillji scorned at him and told him to mind his own business, and questioned the sanity of
protecting temples of “Kafirs”. As Khillji marched on, Angaarsha decided to teach him a
lesson and summoned fire from the skies. The fire burned most of his army and pushed
Khillji’s back from the sacred temple complex. From that day onwards, besides being a Sufi
saint, he became a holy man to all Jains as well. He got his name Angaarsha (Angaar means
fire), after the miracle which saved the temples.
Sufi Saint “Pir’s shrine with a caretaker
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Today people from all faiths come here and request for favors. It’s an interesting tradition, as
you ask for something you leave a small symbol of what you want from the Pir. So childless
women leave a wooden cradle, people with Asthma leave Asthma pumps and so on. You can
be very imaginative here. Of course, once you wishes are fulfilled you come back and make a
donation and offer a chadder to the Pir.
Offering to Sufi saint Angaarsha
The Sufism is a moderate form of Islam although the historicity of the legend cannot be
verified but Palitana was not listed as a trophy of success for Allauddin Khillji. It is highly
doubtful that he even tried to attempt to march the army.
Girnar-Ancient Girinagar
Girnar is collection of mountains older than Himalaya located near southwest corner of
Saurashtra Peninsula. Junagadh is an ancient city located very close the site of old Girinagar.
Girnar has been the sacred site from the early days of Harrapan civilization. This is the place
India’s oldest Shramanic tradition may have originated. Shiva and Nath sects may have
chosen this place for meditation and ultimate salvation. According to tradition, Neminath,
Krishna’s cousin and Jaina’s 22nd Tirthankara attained Nirvana here. This is the sacred sites for
Jaina and Hindu both. The Girnar hosts number of ancient temples and caves for monks. Gir
forest connects it with eastern range of Shrunjaya Mountains of Palitana.
Along with 22nd Tirthankara Neminath, innumerable other Jain monks have attained Nirvana
here, making it a place of very high importance in Jain religion, often mentioned frequently in
Jain religious texts.
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There are number of Jain temples on the mountain. The ancient name of the mountain during
the days of Krishna was Revtaka named after the king Revat whose daughter Revati was
married to Balrama. The shrine and temple of Neminath is thought to be the oldest one in
the world, renovated several times during Muslim period due to temple destruction
activities. Vastupal and Tejpal in the 12th century renovated and added the temples of
Parshavanath and Rishabhdeva. Asoka’s edict, Sudarshan Lake and Buddhist Vihara and caves
are located nearby.
View of Girnar Mountain
The Girnar Mountain is also referred to as “Ujjayantagiri”, “Raivatagiri” and “Sinhgiri” in the
Scriptures at different time of the history. The temple inscription are in references to the
reparation and renovation of this temple at different time by Ratna shah and Ajit shah in the
sixth century AD and by Vastupal, Tejpal, Sajjan shah, all Jaina ministers of Solanki kings from
11 through 14 the century AD. In addition to that many kings, ministers and wealthy patron
have contributed to upkeeps of the shrine. The art and architecture of the temples, its
ceilings and interior pillars is simply astonishing work.
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Nearby town of Junagadh has historic citadel at other mountain called “Uperkot” with
formidable defensive wall built by Chudasama dynasty. The hill also has the Buddhist caves
on Uperkot as per picture shown above.
Neminath temple complex-stone architecture
Steps up the mountain laid by Vastupal-Tejpal and aerial view of Jain temple complex with Neminath-backside
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Sky view of Jaina temple complex
Step entrance
Marble carving inside the Jain temple at Girnar
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References:
1. History of Kathiawar by Harold Wilberforce , London 1885, Publisher William Heinemann.
2. Ta’rikh-I-Sorath, A history of the provinces Sorath and Halar of Kathiawar by Diwan
Ranchodji Amarji of Junagadh
3. Jain Parampara Itihas-Triputi Maharaj, Palitana, Saurashtra India-Vol 1-3
4. The Rajputs Of Saurashtra, Virbhadra Singh, Bombay Popular Prakashan
5. Survansh and Vala Rajput Rajvansh by Sahdevsinhji Vala, Pravin Pushtak Bhandar,
Rajkot, India.
6. Ancient coastal Transportation along The Western Saurashtra Coast, evidence from Navi
Bunder, A.S. gaur, Sundaresh and Sila Tripathi, current science vol. 104, January 2013
7. Ancient Ports of Gujarat, GIS development.net, P.S. Thakker, A.S. Raval, A. R. Dasgupta
8. Archeologists Dig up Evidence of Green Saurashtra, P. Dave, Indian Express, 11/17/2000
9. Annotated Data Base of Early North Indian copper Plate Grants, Alexander Stolymarov,
Institute of oriental studies, Russian Academy of Sciences.
10. Various WIKI and WIKI Media on Western Kshatrapa, Maitrakas, Jaina holy Places and
real picture of the places and visit taken by author.
11. Hakra or Saraswati-controversies and versions of scientist- M. H. Panwar, Pakistan.
12. Hydrological Evaluation of Luni River by V. N. Bajpai, Department of Geology, New Delhi.
13. 2200-1800 BC- The great draught, Red clay, All Empires history Forum 2011.
14. Imaging The River Saraswati by Ifran Habib.
15. Fossil hints of India’s mythical river-BBC News
16. The Indus Riddle, Raj Sen Gupta published on India Today
17. Mahabharata and Sindhu- Subhash kak
18. Urban origination in India by D. P Agarwal
19. http://www.thelivingmoon.com/43ancients/02files/India_Ancient_City_Dwakara.html
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