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The Evolution of Traditional Chinese Makeup
Culture
Makeup & Hairstyle
21/11/19
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About the ancient Chinese women's makeup, how ancient women actually groomed themselves?
We don't really know.
History has left many questions about traditional Chinese makeup: What did the real Yang Guifei
look like? How did the pearl makeup of the Northern Song Dynasty evolve? What do the Ehuang,
Huadian, and Yuanshan eyebrows refer to?
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In August, the book "The
The Beauty of Chinese Makeup ( 中国妆容之美
中国妆容之美))" was published. The
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book shows the makeup of women from the pre-Qin Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, in which 29
groups of real restored makeup charts are particularly eye-catching, from hair to jewelry, from
lip color to eyebrow shape, every detail, after informative testimony.
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One of the authors of this book, Chen Shiyu ( 陈诗宇
陈诗宇)), who is the costume consultant for
National Treasures and Serenade of Peaceful Joy, has been engaged in the research of ancient
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Chinese costume restoration and crafts research for more than ten years. In his eyes, the
process of restoring ancient figures looks is like solving a case, complicated but fun.
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In the program "National Treasure", Princess Wencheng played by Yang Zi and the Ya Ya
played by Tong Liya, broke the inherent impression of people for the women of the Tang Dynasty!
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And the restorer of these characters looks, is Chen Shiyu.
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In the Chinese drama "Serenade
Serenade of Peaceful Joy
Joy", he directed the design of the harem
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concubines' "pearl makeup" costume, which also left a deep impression on the audience.
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Therefore, when there are questions about ancient costumes, netizens always think of him first:
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And to put all the questions into one piece, it is: What did the real ancient people really look like?
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In this article, we will learn about the evolution of traditional Chinese makeup culture
through the autobiography of Chen Shiyu
Shiyu.
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Traditional Chinese makeup styles in different periods of
history
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Makeup usually has a few key points, like eyebrow makeup, eye makeup, and lip makeup, all of
which are some parts that people want to highlight.
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But Chinese classical aesthetics is more eastern style and does not like too exaggerated
features. That's why in ancient times, women wore makeup, mainly eyebrows and rouge, and
rarely trimmed their eyes. The eyeliner was thin and long, and the exaggerated one would reach
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Lip makeup prefers small lips. For example, "lip beads", only a small point on the lower lip, in
the "Story of Yanxi Palace" the head of the "Yao
Yao Chun makeup (咬唇妆)", only a little halo in the
inner side of the lip, like biting the lips.
In addition, is "white
white is beautiful
beautiful", from ancient times to the present, both men and women, are
respected face white. Even in the Wei and Jin dynasties
dynasties, some literati would also put on
powder, such as Cao Zhi. But most of the time, men's makeup demand is far less than women's,
and the same is true today.
Han Dynasty makeup restoration
Han Dynasty women mostly love white makeup, eyebrows are flat or thin curved eyebrows, this
is because the Han Dynasty is the initial stage of the Han culture, aesthetic preference for
solemn, atmospheric, so the makeup is also based on quiet.
Corresponding to this kind of makeup, is Han Dynasty Quju, which is around the lapel of the triple
coat, a total of three layers inside and outside, usually with a cross collar, the collar is very low,
in order to reveal the lining of the coat. The hairstyle is mainly a hanging bun, with a strand of
hair at the end, which gives a sense of flow when the wind blows.
Restoration of costumes and makeup in the early Tang Dynasty
I prefer the Tang Dynasty
Dynasty. It was a mingling, open era, and the aesthetic was more open and
outgoing, so the women's makeup was the most varied and rich.
In the early Tang Dynasty, women would paint a Hua Dian (花钿) on their foreheads, a small
flower or a small decoration, slanting red on both sides of their faces, and a little Mian Yan (⾯
靥) at the corners of their mouths to simulate dimples.
Restoration of women's makeup in the flourishing Tang Dynasty
In the Tang Dynasty, the whole face was covered with rouge, which was clearly seen on the
murals and terracotta figurines of the time.
Li Bai once wrote in an ancient poem: "Women smiling on their horses, their faces like red jade
plates", referring to the round faces of noblewomen at that time painted with crimson rouge,
which is very graphic.
There is even a kind of "Xue
Xue Yun makeup (⾎晕妆)". It is a few horizontal lines above and below
the eyes, as if being scratched. This makeup looks very exaggerated today, but at that time it was
very fashionable.
Late Tang and Five Dynasties women's makeup restoration
By the late Tang Dynasty, women's faces became more and more decorated in various ways. Not
only that, but even wings of insects, feathers of kingfishers, and even all kinds of precious stones
would be put on their faces. We look at the murals preserved in the Mogao Caves at Dunhuang
today, the makeup of the Han Chinese women can be seen clearly.
This shows that the overall characteristics of the Tang Dynasty makeup are rich and grand, and
intermingling is particularly strong, with many minority and exotic elements.
More about Tang dynasty makeup:
History of Tang Dynasty Makeup
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Northern Song Dynasty makeup restoration
Song Dynasty is an era of literature, literary and classical systems are more revered, therefore,
Song Dynasty women in makeup are also gradually convergence, back to light, delicate makeup.
Southern Song Dynasty makeup restoration
At this time, "San
San Bai makeup (三⽩妆)" began to appear. Women would put white powder on
their foreheads, noses, and chins, which was equivalent to today's highlighting.
There was even a special makeup - "tear
tear makeup
makeup", expressing a relatively sorrowful mood.
This tear makeup, close to today's lower eyelid. Eyebrows, basically E eyebrows (蛾眉), more
slender, low profile.
Song Dynasty pearl makeup restoration in "Serenade of Peaceful Joy"
However, the Song Dynasty will also have a grand makeup, such as in the "Serenade of Peaceful
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Joy" restored to the queen's dress - "pearl
pearl makeup
makeup".
In fact, the pearl makeup is in the Tang Dynasty women painted Huadian, Xiehong (斜红) place,
)
instead of using pearls to decorate. In the "Taipei National Palace" collection of the Song Dynasty
Empress portraits, this kind of makeup is very common.
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There are many scenes of court etiquette in the "Serenade of Peaceful Joy", such as the Queen's
wedding, or the royal ancestors and other grand ceremonies, according to the requirements of
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the Song dynasty dress, the need to apply to the pearl makeup.
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