Volatiles for the Perfume Industry M Séquin, San Francisco State University, San Francisco, CA, USA Ó 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. This article is a revision of the previous edition article by D.J. Murphy, volume 3, pp. 1180–1181, Ó 2003, Elsevier Ltd. Glossary Absolute In perfume industry: Product obtained through extraction of the concrete with ethanol. Chiral Asymmetric or ‘handed.’ Concrete In perfume industry: The product of extractions of volatiles. Enantiomers Compounds that are mirror images of each other. Essential oil Volatile, fat-soluble plant oil. In perfume industry: The product of steam distillation of plant materials. Hydrodiffusion A type of steam distillation. Inflorescence A group or cluster of flowers on a branch or a system of branches. Introduction Plants and their volatile compounds have been the major sources of fragrances for perfumes and cosmetics since ancient times. This article describes the composition of typical plant scents, the major chemical families of volatile compounds that are found in them, their perceived functions within plants, and their interactions with other living things, addressing also the human perception. Highly sensitive analytical methods have been developed to analyze the complex mixtures that compose the scents, methods that also have vast applications in the analysis of perfumes. Plants not only are major contributors as perfume ingredients, but their volatiles have been the inspiration for synthetic components, be they nature-alike or new structures, that further enlarge the palette of volatiles useful for the composition of perfumes. Historical notes on the trading and use of fragrant volatiles through the ages conclude the article. Volatiles in Plants: Structures and Biological Functions Plants synthesize a wealth of volatile compounds, that is, compounds that have (relatively) high vapor pressures and vaporize easily into the air. As plants are usually rooted in one place, the volatiles are a means of long-distance communication with other organisms. While some plant volatiles attract pollinators in the form of floral scents, others deter animals that otherwise would feed on plant parts. Yet other volatiles can act as long-distance warning signals toward insects. Furthermore, many plant volatiles have antimicrobial activity and thus can act as protection for vital plant parts like flowers. The components of plant scents tend to be of an oily nature at ambient temperatures, a characteristic that gave them the name ‘essential Encyclopedia of Applied Plant Sciences, 2nd edition, Volume 2 Isoprenoids Same as terpenes. Secondary metabolites composed of isoprene units. Mediterranean climate Climate type characterized by hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Monoterpene Terpenes consisting of two isoprene units, thus having 10 carbon atoms. Sesquiterpene Terpenes consisting of three isoprene units, thus having 15 carbon atoms. Supercritical CO2 Carbon dioxide subjected to pressure becomes supercritical and has liquid properties while remaining in a gaseous state. Terpenes See Isoprenoids. oils,’ ‘essential’ here being the characteristic or essence of a scent. Evaporation from leaf blades of the volatile liquids can provide a cooling effect for plants on hot days. Furthermore, oily layers on leaves oozing out on a warm day can protect plants from desiccation; these are desirable and common traits in plants of climates with long sequences of drought as in Mediterranean climates. Plant volatiles are secondary metabolites, formed from primary metabolites like sugars, fatty acids, and amino acids, following defined biosynthetic pathways. Plant smells are complex mixtures of sometimes several hundred different volatile compounds that evaporate into the air at elevated temperatures. When walking through a pine forest or a rose garden on a warm day we readily notice the scents. Volatiles can be produced in flowers, fruits, and leaves. The composition of plant scents and the concentration of compounds in them are determined by the type of plant, its age, its growth phase, and the ambient climatic conditions. Examples of volatiles found in plant scents are shown in Figures 1–3. Many compounds are common in various plant smells, but in different concentrations. For example, the widespread a-pinene is a major component of pine oil as its name suggests, but also contributes 40–50% to the essential oils of rosemary herb, and traces of a-pinene can be found in rose oil and in lavender. Other common volatiles include limonene, with the scent of citrus, and geraniol with the smell of roses. In contrast, some volatiles are specific to a few distinct plants, like the compound jasmone (shown in Figure 5) that provides its characteristic scent to jasmine flowers. Molecules that compose plant volatiles have general chemical characteristics in spite of their structural diversity. They are organic molecules of relatively small sizes (on a molecular scale), with up to about 15 carbon atoms. They are composed mostly of hydrocarbon structures; therefore they are nonpolar and insoluble or only slightly soluble in water. There is little intermolecular bonding between the molecules as there are http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-394807-6.00089-7 393 394 Secondary Products j Volatiles for the Perfume Industry 10 C, sending out volatiles with a rotten meat smell that attract fly pollinators. The following paragraphs describe typical chemical families of compounds found in plant fragrances, with notes on human perception of their scents. Most of these chemical families are prominent in perfume compositions as well. Terpenes Figure 1 Examples of isoprenoid plant volatiles. Figure 2 Examples of aliphatic and aromatic plant volatiles. Figure 3 Examples of sulfur- and nitrogen-containing plant volatiles. few functionalities like alcohol, aldehyde, or ester groups that would allow dipole–dipole interactions or hydrogen bonds. Therefore, the compounds have low boiling points and relatively high rates of evaporation, especially at elevated temperatures. The volatiles enter the gas phase and travel through the air reaching the sensors of smell in animals or humans. Some plants enhance the volatility of key compounds by heating up during the flowering phase due to increased metabolic rates. This increases the evaporation of volatiles that attract pollinators. A famous example is the corpse flower (Amorphophallus titanum) whose giant inflorescence can heat up by more than By far the largest group of plant volatiles comprises the family of isoprenoids or terpenes. They are found in flower scents, in various concentrations, and also as part of defensive mixtures in leaf oils. The name ‘terpene’ is derived from ‘oil of turpentine,’ itself a mixture of terpenes isolated from pines with a characteristic odor. Terpene molecules are composed of five carbon units, the isoprene units. Therefore, the total numbers of carbon atoms in terpene structures are multiples of five. The majority of volatile terpenes belong to the class of monoterpenes, with 10 carbons, thus composed of two isoprene units. The unique isoprenoid structure is the result of specific biosynthetic pathways that lead from photosynthetically derived carbohydrates to terpenes. Examples of common monoterpenes that are present in different percentages in many floral and leaf scents are shown in Figure 1. Their odors are generally perceived as pleasant by humans. Functional groups like alcohol groups or keto groups contribute to agreeable odor notes. Lavender (Lavendula spp.) contains about 40% of linalool, 10% of eucalyptol (1,8cineole), small amounts of a-pinene, and a wealth of other small amounts of volatiles, sometimes in traces only. Depending on the season and the cultivar, essential oils from the strongly fragrant rose Rosa damascena, a major source of rose oil, can contain around 20% of geraniol and 40% of citronellol, also with the smell of rose, and smaller amounts, sometimes traces only, of numerous other volatile compounds. Many monoterpene molecules are asymmetric. (Chiral centers are marked with * in Figure 1). Molecular asymmetries often affect how we perceive the smells of these compounds. As an example, (R)-()-linalool provides its woody lavender scent to lavender and is the major odor component of lavender herbs. Its enantiomer, (S)-(þ)-linalool, is found in coriander and has a scent described as sweet floral. Plants may contain one of the enantiomers exclusively or a racemic mixture of both enantiomers. The oils from Eucalyptus spp. contain racemic mixtures of both forms of a-pinene. Interestingly, the volatile oils of North American pines contain one of the enantiomers of a-pinene, whereas most pine oils of European origin have the other enantiomer. A smaller group of isoprenoid volatiles comprises the sesquiterpenoids, with 15 carbons, the result of three isoprene units. These molecules are still small enough to evaporate at elevated temperatures. An example is caryophyllene, found in cloves and in carnations, with its typical scent of cloves. Larger terpene molecules, composed of four or more isoprenoid units, are not volatile at ambient temperatures. Aliphatic Alcohols, Aldehydes, and Esters Aside from terpenes, simple aliphatic alcohols and aldehydes are part of floral fragrances that are generally perceived as pleasant by humans (see Figure 2). cis-3-Hexenol, a common Secondary Products j Volatiles for the Perfume Industry 395 Figure 4 Analysis of volatiles. (a) Schematic drawing of a gas chromatograph. (b) Gas chromatogram of a rose oil. Gas chromatogram by Phenomenex, Inc. plant volatile produced by many plants and also a common perfume ingredient, has the smell of cut green grass. Octanal is an aldehyde with a fruit-like odor that occurs naturally in citrus oils. Esters are particularly present in ripe fruits, like ethyl 2-methylbutyrate in ripe apples, making them attractive to feeding animals (as well as to people). Aromatic Volatiles Figure 5 Examples of natural and related synthetic volatiles for perfumes. While the aromatic volatiles described here (and shown in Figure 2) are also aromatic in the sense of being pleasant smelling compounds, aromatics in this context is understood as compounds with a benzene ring. Benzyl acetate is a major fragrance component in jasmine. Eugenol with a scent of cloves and cinnamaldehyde with the smell of cinnamon both belong to the subfamily of the phenyl propanoids, with C6eC3 structures. 396 Secondary Products j Volatiles for the Perfume Industry Sweet floral scents in general, as produced by mono- and sesquiterpenes, aromatics, and simple aliphatic alcohols, aldehydes, and esters, attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Heavy sweet scents as from linalool attract moths. The fragrances form when flowers open and combine with attractive colors and shapes to lure pollinators. Sulfur- and Nitrogen-Containing Volatiles Sulfur- and nitrogen-containing organic compounds (see examples in Figure 3) contribute to plant odors that are attractive to flies, beetles, or fungus gnats, but because humans experience these odors as unpleasant they are of minor interest as perfume components. Flowers or clusters of flowers that give off these foul smells frequently have brown or maroon pigments, resembling decomposing animal materials. Sulfides and disulfides, like dimethyl disulfide, are part of floral scents in the several types of plants appropriately named corpse flowers (Rafflesia or Amorphophallus spp.). Flies and beetles are their pollinators. The simple amine 1-aminohexane contributes to the slightly unpleasant floral odor of cow parsnip (Heracleum lanatum). Indole, part of the strong fragrance of hyacinths, has itself a scent of feces (but exhibits a floral smell at very low concentrations). In a mixture, such off-notes can contribute to the characteristic bouquet of a floral scent, such as to the generally pleasant floral smell of hyacinths. Perfumers are well-aware of off-notes lending characteristic notes to a perfume mixture. Other Plant Volatiles As an aside, many plant volatiles do not contribute to fragrances nor are they of importance for the perfume industry, but they have important functions in plants. Ethylene gas is one of the plant hormones. Isoprene, composed of simple fivecarbon molecules, is released from the green foliage of many trees. Some plants develop volatiles only when a plant is injured, as a means of plant defense. Cyanogenic glycosides release hydrogen cyanide when enzymatic action cleaves the molecules (think biting into an apple seed), and the sulfurous glucosinolates, present in plants of the cabbage family (Brassicaceae), release repellent volatile isothiocyanate and other sulfur-containing compounds. Isolation and Analysis of Plant Volatiles Steam distillation has been the traditional method to isolate volatiles from fragrant plant materials. Steam distillation and the related hydrodiffusion technique are used to isolate the essential oils from lavender or from rose petals. It is a suitable method if plenty of plant material is available. The layer of essential oils, floating on water, can be collected. Other isolation methods involve extraction with organic solvents, like liquid hydrocarbons. Plants often produce volatile oils in very small amounts. If little plant material is available, as is often the case in research on plant volatiles, the most sensitive method to collect and analyze them is head-space analysis. Special glass bell jars, containing a probe with absorbents, are placed over the fragrant plant parts. This method is nondestructive to volatiles and to plant parts. The collected oils are eluted with appropriate solvents from the probe and can be further analyzed by gas chromatography (GC). This is a most sensitive analytical method, used commonly not only in the analysis of plant volatiles but also in food analysis, crude oil analysis, and, of course, analysis of perfumes. If combined with mass spectrometry (MS), the identity of the single compounds in a mixture can be determined by GC–MS. Figure 4 shows a schematic picture of a gas chromatograph and the gas chromatogram of a rose oil, each line in the chromatogram representing a different compound. In a related method, used to evaluate the odor contributions of the compounds in a volatile mixture, a ‘sniffing port’ is attached to the exit port of the gas chromatograph. Each compound can then be smelled as it is being separated and can be further evaluated for its individual odor quality. Different isolation methods affect the percentages of volatiles found in a fragrant mixture, for example, whether the volatiles were obtained by head-space analysis, a very sensitive method, or by steam distillation. The Human Sense of Smell The previous descriptions of the various scents of plant volatiles are necessarily from a human perspective. It is difficult, if not impossible, to give an exact description of a smell or fragrance. We may use expressions like pleasant, sweet, strong, or unpleasant. Looking ahead to the use of plant volatiles in perfumes, the list of terms to describe the scents is vastly expanded by professional perfumers. Following intense training, they use a palette of expressions that include floral, earthy, green, oriental, oceanic, mossy woods, mushroom, musk, and more, to describe a fragrance. Most humans describe the entire scent, the bouquet. A perceptive or well-trained person may detect certain odor notes in a scent, like pine or a lemon undertone. Often there is a dominant note, not necessarily due to the compound present in highest concentration in a scent mixture. Character-impact compounds may have a typical smell to us, even if in low concentrations. On the other hand, some compounds in the volatile mixtures of plant scents are without odor perception to humans, but may be recognized by animals like insects. After all, plants did not evolve floral or leaf scents to attract or deter humans. The human sense of smell has a broad range of sensitivity to several thousands of different scents. Our sense of smell is, together with taste, our oldest sense in evolutionary terms. It is affected by a person’s age, sex, and individual differences. Our noses are capable of detecting lower concentrations of volatiles than a gas chromatograph, currently our most sensitive analytical method. We are especially sensitive toward sulfurous odors for which the detection threshold is very low for humans. This is why methyl mercaptan (CH3SH) is added to cooking gas to alert the user to leaks. This sensitivity with low-detection thresholds toward sulfurous and amine smells may be an evolutionary result as decaying (rotting) meats emanate these smells. Some mammals, like bears or dogs, are well known for their much keener sense of smell, of course. Some insects have extremely high sensitivity toward one or a few specific compounds, as in the case of the sex pheromone bombykol released by the female silkworm to attract mates. Secondary Products j Volatiles for the Perfume Industry Volatiles for Perfumes Flowers like roses and jasmine, leaves like lavender, fruits, seeds like anise, some roots (ginger) as well as barks (cinnamon bark), and some woods, as from pines, still provide large amounts of fragrant plant materials for the perfume industry. Therefore most of the volatile compounds described earlier and the examples shown in Figures 1 and 2, namely the terpenes, aliphatic alcohols, aldehydes, and esters, and the aromatics, are also common perfume components. Cultivating suitable plants and isolating their fragrances is costly. Large amounts of plant materials are required to obtain relatively small amounts of fragrant oils. In addition, fragrances from natural sources are often not very stable and decompose with light, moisture, or heat. Therefore, perfumes that contain actual plant essences are expensive and luxury goods, as expressed in the fancy bottles that contain them and the beguiling brand names. Currently about 90% of perfume materials are made synthetically. A large percentage of scented materials are not used in fine perfumes but in commercial products like soaps, shampoos, bath oils, laundry soap, or cheaper perfumes, where a full palette of natural fragrances is not needed. Natural plant essences in products like laundry soap would not be stable. It has also been found that about six to eight selected compounds together can compose a satisfying desired fragrance for a personal perfume, unlike the composition of a hundred or more components in a natural plant fragrance. Figures 5 and 6 show a selection of natural and synthetic perfume ingredients. ‘Nature-identical’ compounds, although also found naturally in plant (or animal) scents, are made at lower costs synthetically from sources like wood, coal tar, or petroleum. Furthermore, synthetic alterations of the chemical structures of naturally occurring compounds can create more stable fragrance components or compounds that do not have health concerns, in addition to new fragrance notes. An example is dihydrojasmone, a synthetic compound with the pleasant odor note of jasmine, but more stable than the naturally occurring jasmone. As a further example, the compound vanillin gets 397 oxidized easily and darkens when, for example, used in white soap. Therefore, related synthetics, like UltravanilÒ (Figure 5), have been developed that have higher stability. Natural fragrances have been the inspiration for today’s perfume compositions, including the addition of certain offnotes for a characteristic fragrance. The compounds muscone and civetone (Figure 6), both with strong musky odors and historically obtained from animal sources, have been used in perfumery since ancient times, a custom that almost eradicated the respective animals. Nowadays, the musks are produced synthetically. In 1888 A. Baur noticed the musky odor of products while doing synthetic work on explosives related to trinitrotoluene (TNT) and discovered the nitromusks (Figure 6). These compounds are very different in structure from the natural muscone and civetone. They were of high importance for musky perfume notes till the 1950s, but their preparation could be hazardous, and the compounds have phototoxic properties. New, more stable compounds with musky scents have been synthesized, and synthetic research is ongoing. The inclusion of synthetic ingredients in perfumes became fully acceptable with the launching of the still best-selling perfume Chanel No. 5 in 1921 which, aside from natural oils such as from rose and jasmine, includes also synthetic aliphatic aldehydes. The mixture of all the components together leads to the unique character of a perfume. Desirable Properties of a Perfume Perfumes are very complex mixtures. Composing successful perfumes is an art, and perfumers who create them go through in-depth schooling. Only a very small percentage of new perfume creations make it onto the market. A perfume needs to have some highly volatile fragrant ingredients that are smelled first when applied to the skin (the top notes). Less volatile compounds, the middle or heart notes, have to develop shortly after the top notes fade and should last for several hours. The least volatile components, the base notes, are the persisting odors (or what a garment smells like long afterward). In a successful perfume all these notes must blend harmoniously. Aside from a desirable fragrance, an acceptable perfume must have a lasting, pleasing color. It has to be reasonably stable on skin and with skin secretions, and must not be allergenic nor have other health concerns. In addition, its price has to be such that the consumer finds it fair for the product. Isolation and Analysis of Perfume Ingredients Figure 6 Natural and synthetic musks. Margareta Sequin, 2012. The Chemistry of Plants - Perfumes, Pigments, and Poisons. RSC Publishing, Cambridge, UK. Three major types of isolation methods are used to obtain volatiles from plants, depending upon the stability of the plant materials and their fragrant compounds, namely expression, various types of distillation, and extraction methods. Expression of the essential oils, as from the peels of citrus fruits, is the simplest technique. Among the distillation methods, dry distillation involves high temperatures and can only be used to obtain volatiles from certain woods. Steam distillation, for example, of lavender, produces what is called the essential oil in perfume 398 Secondary Products j Volatiles for the Perfume Industry industry. In steam distillation, the temperature is not above 100 C, but a subsequent separation of the layers of essential oils from water is required. Solvent extractions of plant materials, with organic solvents like liquid hydrocarbons or ethyl acetate, are most commonly used and have the advantage that the processes take place at room temperature. They are used when plant materials like jasmine flowers are too delicate for steam distillation. Extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide uses very low temperatures and as a further advantage leaves no trace of solvents, but the necessary equipment is costly. The products of extraction methods are called concrete. Absolutes are obtained through extraction of the concrete with ethanol. Absolutes are usually more concentrated than essential oils. All the components of a perfume must be dissolved in a solvent like alcohol, occasionally alcohol-water, in order to keep the nonpolar fragrant oils in solution. Gas chromatography, often combined with mass spectrometry, is the leading technique to determine the volatile components in perfumes. It is a most important technique in the quality control of fragrant mixtures and also a method to detect adulterated perfumes that are sometimes sold fraudulently as natural ones. The methods described in the following paragraph are used to detect fraud and also to point out differences between natural plant scents and artificial volatiles. Fragrant oils from natural sources contain hundreds of components, whereas the composition of a perfume from artificial compounds is a lot simpler, with few components, which would be easily detected by a much lower number of peaks in a gas chromatogram. Sometimes, perfume mixtures containing natural oils are diluted with cheaper synthetic fragrances. Searching for by-products that can only be of synthetic origin can lead to detection. Another method involves measuring the exact content of radioactive carbon-14 (14C) in a sample. Plants absorb naturally occurring 14C through photosynthesis from the atmosphere and incorporate it through biosynthesis into metabolites like plant volatiles. If coal tar, with its radioactive 14C long decayed, has been the source of synthetically made perfume components, the resulting synthetic fragrances do not show this radioactivity. History of Plant Volatiles for Perfumes A visit to a perfume museum, like the Osmothèque in Versailles, France, illustrates the long history of the use of fragrant plant materials in human societies. People have ever been intrigued by the scents and have worked at isolating them from plant materials. Herbs, spices, and fragrant woods had been in use in Egypt, Mesopotamia, India, and China thousands of years ago. Extraction methods like pressing the essential oils of flower petals onto fats to make pomades were known in ancient Egypt, and lotions and perfumes were produced by extracting flowers and leaves with alcohol. The fragrant resins frankincense and myrrh were gifts of the Magi. Through the crusades and through trading, the scented materials made their way west to Europe and became items of luxury. By the nineteenth century, chemists were adept at isolating many compounds from the fragrant mixtures, using methods like distillation and extraction. They successfully identified many chemical structures of compounds found in the plant scents. New synthetic methods were developed in order to prove the structures by synthesis, and many of these methods are still in use in different fields of chemistry. Two Nobel prizes were awarded in connection with the exploration of biosynthetic pathways leading to isoprenoids, namely to O. Wallach who proposed in 1887 that the molecules of many fragrant plant compounds are hypothetically constructed from isoprene units, and in 1939 to L. Ruzicka for his extensive research that showed that plants follow distinct biosynthetic reaction pathways to assemble terpenes. Conclusion Plants and their volatiles have provided the inspiration for perfume ingredients and continue to stimulate research on new fragrant compounds. Synthetic methods are being developed to prepare volatiles with slightly altered structures that have more desirable properties like higher stability. Altogether new structures for volatiles are being investigated as well. Most important is the cost efficiency of the production of perfume ingredients. Many synthetic methods that were developed to produce new fragrant materials, especially with an eye on creating more efficient syntheses with reduced production costs, have led to the development of novel synthetic pathways that are in use in other fields of synthetic chemistry as well. The spectrum of new fragrances is continuously being expanded, and volatiles for the perfume industry comprise a field of active research. Further Reading Breitmaier, E., 2006. Terpenes: Flavors, Fragrances, Pharmaca, Pheromones. WileyVCH, Weinheim. Brunke, E.J., Hammerschmidt, F.-J., Schmaus, G., 1994. Headspace analysis of hyacinth flowers. Flavour Fragrance J. 9, 59–69. Fortineau, A.-D., 2004. Chemistry perfumes your daily life. J. Chem. Educ. 81, 45–50. Groom, N., 1997. The New Perfume Handbook, second ed. Blackie Academic and Professional, London. Herrmann, A. (Ed.), 2010. The Chemistry and Biology of Volatiles. Wiley, Hoboken. Jalali-Heravi, M., Moazeni, R.S., Sereshti, H., 2011. Analysis of Iranian rosemary essential oil: applications of gas chromatography-mass spectrometry combined with chemometrics. J. Chromatogr. A 1218, 2569–2576. Jirovetz, L., Buchbauer, G., Stoyanova, A., et al., 2005. Solid phase microextraction/ gas chromatographic and olfactory analysis of the scent and fixative properties of the essential oil of Rosa damascena from China. Flavour Fragrance J. 20, 7–12. Kaiser, R., 2006. Meaningful Scents around the World: Olfactory, Chemical, Biological, and Cultural Considerations. Wiley-VCH, Weinheim. Ohloff, G., Pickenhagen, W., Kraft, P., 2012. Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors. Wiley-VCH, Zürich: Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta; Weinheim. Pichersky, E., Gershenzon, J., 2002. The formation and function of plant volatiles: perfumes for pollinator attraction and defense. Curr. Opin. Plant Biol. 5, 237–243. Sell, C. (Ed.), 2006. The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer, second ed. The Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, UK. Séquin, M., 2012. The Chemistry of Plants: Perfumes, Pigments, and Poisons. The Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, UK. Relevant Websites http://www.ted.com/talks/luca_turin_on_the_science_of_scent.html – Luca Turin: The Science of Scent. http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Osmotheque-The-Perfume-Museum-2410.html – Osmothèque Perfume Museum, Versailles.